VACList-Digest Friday, March 15, 2002 Issue 241
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Sheetmetal info
2. 1949 Trailwind for sale.
3. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
4. The Never Ending Saga
5. Re: Hitch Height?
6. Water Pressure Reg.
7. importance of a good hitch.
8. Re:
9. Re: importance of a good hitch.
10. Re: Water Pressure Reg.
11. 4th Edition of RV Repair & Maint...
12. Need to re-attach upper cabinet
13. Re: Water Pressure Reg.
14. Re: Hitch Height?
15. Re: importance of a good hitch.
16. Re: Water Pressure Reg.
17. Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
18. Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
19. Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
20. Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
21. Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
22. Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 17:56:28 -0700
From: "Andy Robinowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal info
There are a couple of great threads on replacing panels (with pictures),
what rivet tool is best, shaving rivets, etc. at:
http://www.airstreamforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=83
http://www.airstreamforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=23
Cheers,
Andy
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 20:00:16 -0800
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Sheetmetal info
Check out:
http://www.lindsaybks.com./bks3/airc/index.html
http://www.tinmantech.com/index.html
RJ
VintageAirstream.com
> From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 22:36:12 -0500
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
> whaa? ? I thought a bucked rivet was a hammered rivet ...Guess I got the
terms
> wrong . Lots to this airplane talk .
> So they have to be installed with a pneumatic gun , rather that a punch
and a
> hammer - against a bucking block ( if I have that termed right ) ?
> For any of you who would like to read up on this aluminium tech stuff , I
saw
> a book called Standard Aircraft Handbook at Borders bookstore today , ( I
> didnt
> buy it , I poweread it in the aisle and will look in the library , 24.95
is a
> lot of clecos ! ) which was the best and only book I`ve found so far
around
> here
> about this subject . If anyone knows of any better books ,let me know .
There
> must be a way for me to learn this ( I`m too old for the service ! any one
> have
> any manuals from Uncle Sam ?? )
> Chris 4 days no smoking
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:01:38 -0700
From: "Dan Burke" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1949 Trailwind for sale.
Hello everyone,
Just thought I'd throw this in your direction in case any of you were
interested. Here is the ad I have placed on Airstream.net and
AirstreamCentral.com.
For Sale: 1949 Trailwind - Rare!
A '40s Airstream doesn't come along that often, especially in this
condition. The shell clean and straight. The inside is gutted. An
absolutely gorgeous trailer! Take a closer look at
www.airstreamtrailers.com/49. $5,800 obo. Serious inquiries only.
Thanks for your time!
Dan
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:02:05 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
Thanks for the offer , Robert ,and the links , RJ ,and both Andy R`s .
I`m going to order a couple of books from tinman tech`s book site . I
am thinking of reinforcing my roof with more stringers, possibly
replacing a roof panel , certainly making a patch that looks decent if I
dont replace the panel , and putting pads for my solar panels which will
flip down as an awning over the windows on the streetside . I am
interested in design generally , but for this project I guess I need to
learn how to buck rivets , as its all open inside so I can if I want to
. I also need to find out if I can remove both the inner and outer roof
panels on one side without breaking the trailer in half or something . I
think I am leaning towards covering both the dent and a small patch with
my solar panels . I`ve always had them on a separate frame which is`nt
as theftproof as they would be on roof . But as I see how spindally the
framing is I think it will want some extra stringers to take the extra
weight , plus Inland Andy got me all worried about the structural
problems inherent in early 60`s 22' ers . So anything that you think I
need to know would be welcome info to me , feel free to go off on any
tangent that comes to mind ! . I have or have access to a jump shear and
a brake ,air ,nibblers ,TIG etc and have a few misspent years in auto
body so its not so scary as it might seem . I am not in a hurry to
finish the project , I have another trailer that is on the road . I`m
just in that rip out the innerds exited about the project phase , but
realistically its going to be a year or so to do , as always theres more
to it than first appeared , I bought it covered with snow in an aluminum
frenzy.
________Chris_____________
Robert Gill wrote:
> ChrisWhat type of book are you looking for.I have some of my old tech
> school manuals that teach airframe repair and installing rivets.Though
> I may not want to part with the complete book I may be able to copy
> the pages you need to give you some basic info on installing rivets.
> Bucked rivets are superior to blind fastenersBefore I get off on a
> tangent. Just let me know exactly what your looking for and I'll see
> what I can come up with.Bobby
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:37:58 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: The Never Ending Saga
Dont let it get you down ,Ted .
As you know by now , this airstream stuff is 98 % vacuuming 1 % finding
nitrogen cooled unobtainium alloy rivets , and 1% buying expensive tools to
use them . Be thankfull you`re not paying the RV tech to vacuum for you !
A 12 volt system could be a wall mart battery a hole thru the floor some
wire a fuse a switch shurflo pump and a plastic tank , not to bad . Also I
wonder if a local fabricator could make you a thicker plastic tank that
would take 60 psi . Or a galvanized tank for < 600 $
Chris - also sighing lately
"T. Byrd" wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> In preparation for the epoxy floor repairs, I removed the fresh water
> tank today to gain access to the rotten wood under it. It appears the
> rotten wood has been caused by numerous pin-hole leaks in the water
> tank. This tank is not the original (I assume) galvanized pressure tank,
> but an aluminum cylinder. Cutting to the chase, I now need a new fresh
> water tank, and I'd really like to keep the features of the pressure
> tank. I don't have a 12 volt system, and I can't afford to install one
> with everything else that needs work and replacement, so a water pump is
> not an option at the moment.
>
> Has anyone else here been able to find replacement pressure tanks? I've
> read the VAC FAQ, and it looks like the sources there only produce
> polyethylene tanks. If I can't purchased a pressure tank, does anyone
> know where I'd go to have one fabricated?
>
> *sigh*
>
> --
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander (quickly falling apart)
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 09:14:43 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Now I am really confused - who said anything about a ball on the bumper in
this thread? Michael wanted to know how much drop he needed when he got the
bar to go in the receiver so that the trailer hitch would be the proper
height from the ground. ( at least I think that is what he asked)
Polly
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 06:58:18 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water Pressure Reg.
My 1972 Sovereign International's factory built in water pressure
regulator is dripping out the little drain tube that sticks out below
the belly pan.
It all started last fall when I had new water lines run on the property.
The installer didn't flush any dirt out of the lines before connecting
all up. We were camped out in this unit and the evening of the new water
lines all the faucet screens suddenly plugged up. I cleaned them out,
several times, and no big deal except the pressure regulator seems to be
dripping out it's drain hose quite a bit.
Are these easy to take apart & clean? Has anyone had experience with
doing this job? Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. Personally
I've wondered about just removing it and just using the ones on the hose
just outside the trailer where the hose hooks up to it.
Thanks,
Pat
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 07:20:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: importance of a good hitch.
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thought I'd send this to the list - He wasn't pulling
an Airstream, but he might have been.
Minnesota just got up to 20" of snow, and I just
thought I'd wish you all safe travels. There are alot
of us on the road.
Toby
__________________________________________________
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--0-1888537281-1016205644=:94855--
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:45:09 -0400
From: "Sean Doran" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
>Would some one be so kind as to help me locate a new or used LPG safety
>valve for my furnace. (NT22) Will pay shipping. Having trouble finding a
>new one here in Canada. Two other questions while I'm at it...If I was to
>go with a cat. heater , how many BTU's would I need to comfortably heat a
>25 ft Tradewind in cold weather? Also, If I was to remove the roof mounted
>A/C unit how much hassle will it be and how big will the hole that remains
>be?
Thanks in advance for your expert advice
Sean Doran
'73 Tradewind
St.John's ,NF
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
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------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:59:41 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: importance of a good hitch.
At 07:20 AM 3/15/02 -0800, Toby Folwick wrote:
>thought I'd send this to the list - He wasn't pulling
>an Airstream, but he might have been.
Great picture!- do you have a larger version you could email to
me? (address below).
________
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:18:59 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Reg.
Pat. The leak you describe should be from the "high pressure pop-off" valve.
It's called a "111" valve and should have that number on the top of it. That
valve is not repairable. The "water pressure regulator" does not have a drain
hose connected to it. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:32:52 -0500
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 4th Edition of RV Repair & Maint...
Just a FYI that I received my copy of the new 4th edition of Bon
Livingston's "RV Repair & Maintenance Manual" today.
It was back ordered at Amazon since last fall, and I had completely
forgotten that I had even ordered it :-).
It claims to be "Updated & Expanded", but since I dont own the 3rd edition,
I cant tell you what's new or changed.
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 08:06:17 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
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Hi Folks,
Not sure if this is a common problem or not,but I do hope I can explain it properly:
The overhead,3 compartment bin section of my '67 Safari has detached from the
ceiling.This is the overhead locker/bin section that runs above the pull-out bed and
connects onto the fridge cabinet.It looks like it was once held onto the ceiling by a
screw
Is it safe to go with an even larger screw to try to re-afix it,or is there some sort
of better anchoring tool I can use?Doubt rivets are going to work for this particular
problem.
Any help appreciated.
Charlotte
New Westminster,BC
--Boundary_(ID_xIzJcYhOpKk4ycfU2JPrkw)
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Not sure if this is a common problem or
not,but I do hope I can explain it properly:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> The overhead,3 compartment bin section of my
'67 Safari has detached from the ceiling.This is the overhead locker/bin
section that runs above the pull-out bed and connects onto the fridge cabinet.It
looks like it was once held onto the ceiling by a screw or something,because
there is a good sized hole there(looks like it kept coming out and thet kept
putting in bigger and bigger screws!).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Is it safe to go with an even larger screw to
try to re-afix it,or is there some sort of better anchoring tool I can use?Doubt
rivets are going to work for this particular problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2> Any help appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>New Westminster,BC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
--Boundary_(ID_xIzJcYhOpKk4ycfU2JPrkw)--
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:54:17 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Reg.
Replace the regulator. The main operating part is a rubberized cloth
diaphragm. Its rotted in 30 years. Its been contributing pieces to
clogging the faucet screens. Regulators don't have that long a lifetime.
Be glad it has a drain hose. You can open it to clean, but you will find
the diaphragm to be more like sponge than impervious to water and
replacement parts are probably not available.
Replace it. Having it mounted permanently is one less thing to fiddle
with while setting up and tearing down each camp.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 10:54:27 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
I brought up the question about ball on the bumper because 300 pounds
tongue weight is typical of the factor step bumper. Untypical of a good
frame mounted receiver. The original question didn't include an
equalizing hitch, just what was the correct ball height because the
trailer didn't seem to ride level.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 11:58:45 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: importance of a good hitch.
Toby. Great picture. Unfortunately, some folks don't believe in load
equalizing hitches, or, towing safety. I wish there was a way to convince
them, "before the fact."
Physics is indisputable, but some feel that it doesn't apply to them. Sad, at
best. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:28:22 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Pressure Reg.
At 06:58 AM 3/15/02 -0800, Patrick Ewing wrote:
>My 1972 Sovereign International's factory built in water pressure
>regulator is dripping out the little drain tube that sticks out below
>the belly pan.
<<..>>
>Are these easy to take apart & clean? Has anyone had experience with
>doing this job? Any help/suggestions would be appreciated. Personally
>I've wondered about just removing it and just using the ones on the hose
>just outside the trailer where the hose hooks up to it.
I agree with Andy- there are two parts under there- a pressure
reducer and a relief valve- it is the relief valve that is leaking. On both
of my trailers, I have just capped them off, but any good plumbing supply
house should have a replacement.
I do really like the built in pressure regulator- they work much
better than the cheap hose mount models. I *think* that rebuild kits are
available for them (they are made by Watts Regulator).
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 12:21:46 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
Molly bolt, or toggle bolt or some other expanding drywall anchor. The
metal molly bolt does the best job of distributing the load over an area
of the inner skin, providing there's enough room to insert and expand
the molly bolt.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 13:58:48 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
Jim, I asked my State Farm agent the same thing and he said I needed
documentation. Appraisals from someone who knows and sells restored
Airstream trailers. He means dealers -- not my brother-in-law. I'd be
interested in hearing from anybody who has had some success at getting such
documentation together. A letter on letter head stating it's restored value
is what my guy says it takes to get a fair settlement in the event of a
loss.
Anybody know of dealers or Airstream repair facilities that could provide
such a letter for a fee?
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:38
Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
> As many of you know I have upgraded,modifier,and customized The Silver
> Albatross until it is no longer really considered a 37 year old trailer. I
> have it insured with State Farm insurance co for a stated value of
$7000.00
> I recently went to my agent to upgrade the insurance as I have spent
another
> $4000.00 on it plus I probably have in the excess of 2000hours on it. My
> question to him was in the event that the worst happens how do I prove
that
> the trailer is worth what I am insuring it for. His answer was that I need
to
> documate every thing that I have done to the trailer. Receipts are the
best
> way in the absence of recipes that photographic decimation of the custom
work
> that I have done is a help. An appraisal from a certified appraiser Also
> will help (where does one Find one)The reason according to him is that
with
> the lack of documation any one could insure a ragout old trailer and when
it
> got destroyed
> collect far more than the worth suspected fraud. I anticipate no trouble
as
> long as I do not have to file a claim
> Jim Smith.
> 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> 1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
> I am raising the declared value to 20k
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 14:53:07 -0800
From: "Carol and Oliver Filippi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Charlotte,
There are blind insert threaded nuts which can be installed in the now =
oversize hole. These "nuts" look like a large Pop (or Olympic) rivet =
which is installed with a Pop rivet tool. They are inserted from the =
front, expand in and behind the hole, and leave a steel machine screw =
thread which will take a standard bolt or machine screw.
Some come with a simple setting device which holds the rivet while you =
tighten the screw with a wrench.
Your best source would be an industrial fastener dealer - check the =
yellow pages.
Good luck,
Oliver Filippi
Oliver Filippi
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Charcigar=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 8:06 AM
Subject: [VAC] Need to re-attach upper cabinet
Hi Folks,
=20
Not sure if this is a common problem or not,but I do hope I can =
explain it properly:
=20
The overhead,3 compartment bin section of my '67 Safari has detached =
from the ceiling.This is the overhead locker/bin section that runs above =
the pull-out bed and connects onto the fridge cabinet.It looks like it =
was once held onto the ceiling by a screw or something,because there is =
a good sized hole there(looks like it kept coming out and thet kept =
putting in bigger and bigger screws!).
=20
Is it safe to go with an even larger screw to try to re-afix it,or is =
there some sort of better anchoring tool I can use?Doubt rivets are =
going to work for this particular problem.
=20
Any help appreciated.
=20
Charlotte
New Westminster,BC
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1CC31.1DF5DB00
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3314.2100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Charlotte,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>There are blind insert threaded nuts which can be =
installed in=20
the now oversize hole. These "nuts" look like a large Pop (or =
Olympic)=20
rivet which is installed with a Pop rivet tool. They are inserted from =
the=20
front, expand in and behind the hole, and leave a steel machine screw =
thread=20
which will take a standard bolt or machine screw.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Some come with a simple setting device which holds =
the rivet=20
while you tighten the screw with a wrench.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Your best source would be an industrial fastener =
dealer -=20
check the yellow pages.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Good luck,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oliver Filippi</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oliver Filippi</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; [EMAIL PROTECTED]>Charcigar</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Multiple=20
recipients of VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 15, 2002 =
8:06=20
AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Need to =
re-attach upper=20
cabinet</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Folks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Not sure if this is a common =
problem or=20
not,but I do hope I can explain it properly:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> The overhead,3 compartment bin =
section of=20
my '67 Safari has detached from the ceiling.This is the overhead=20
locker/bin section that runs above the pull-out bed and connects onto =
the=20
fridge cabinet.It looks like it was once held onto the ceiling by a =
screw or=20
something,because there is a good sized hole there(looks like it kept =
coming=20
out and thet kept putting in bigger and bigger screws!).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Is it safe to go with an even =
larger screw=20
to try to re-afix it,or is there some sort of better anchoring tool I =
can=20
use?Doubt rivets are going to work for this particular =
problem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Any help =
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Charlotte</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>New=20
Westminster,BC</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C1CC31.1DF5DB00--
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 15:14:35 -0800
From: Rik & Susan Beeson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
I would think that Andy at Inland RV would be qualified to do this, as would
Rodney at C&G Trailers in Bellflower, CA. Also, when/if you see an ad (on the
web or elsewhere), it would be a good idea to keep a copy of it. An accumulation
of these can be used to arrive at a fair approximation of the value of your
unit. However, IMHO, your valuation of your trailer ($20K) seems a bit high. I
don't doubt that you have that much in it, in time and money, but that doesn't
mean that you could get that much for it on the open market.
Best regards,
Rik
James Greene wrote:
> Jim, I asked my State Farm agent the same thing and he said I needed
> documentation. Appraisals from someone who knows and sells restored
> Airstream trailers. He means dealers -- not my brother-in-law. I'd be
> interested in hearing from anybody who has had some success at getting such
> documentation together. A letter on letter head stating it's restored value
> is what my guy says it takes to get a fair settlement in the event of a
> loss.
> Anybody know of dealers or Airstream repair facilities that could provide
> such a letter for a fee?
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, March 15, 2002 11:38
> Subject: Re: [A/S] Vintage Airstream Insurance
>
> > As many of you know I have upgraded,modifier,and customized The Silver
> > Albatross until it is no longer really considered a 37 year old trailer. I
> > have it insured with State Farm insurance co for a stated value of
> $7000.00
> > I recently went to my agent to upgrade the insurance as I have spent
> another
> > $4000.00 on it plus I probably have in the excess of 2000hours on it. My
> > question to him was in the event that the worst happens how do I prove
> that
> > the trailer is worth what I am insuring it for. His answer was that I need
> to
> > documate every thing that I have done to the trailer. Receipts are the
> best
> > way in the absence of recipes that photographic decimation of the custom
> work
> > that I have done is a help. An appraisal from a certified appraiser Also
> > will help (where does one Find one)The reason according to him is that
> with
> > the lack of documation any one could insure a ragout old trailer and when
> it
> > got destroyed
> > collect far more than the worth suspected fraud. I anticipate no trouble
> as
> > long as I do not have to file a claim
> > Jim Smith.
> > 1965 Tradewind(The Silver Abaltross)
> > 1992 Dodge Cummins Diesel
> > I am raising the declared value to 20k
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 17:38:43 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
I like Mollybolts better than rivet nuts because the Mollybolts spread
the load over a larger area, if there's enough depth to put them in.
They install simply by tightening the screw they are supplied with.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2002 18:55:55 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Need to re-attach upper cabinet
At 05:38 PM 3/15/02 -0600, Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer wrote:
>I like Mollybolts better than rivet nuts because the Mollybolts spread
>the load over a larger area, if there's enough depth to put them in.
>They install simply by tightening the screw they are supplied with.
I was under the impression that the overhead cabinets were always
screwed/riveted in to ribs and not just into the sheet metal, in which case
I would use a rivnut. But.. if the cabinets are indeed just attached to the
inside skin.. I would actually try to find somewhere else to attach them.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
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