VACList-Digest Wednesday, March 13, 2002 Issue 239
Today's Topics:
1. The Never Ending Saga
2. Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
3. Re: The Never Ending Saga
4. Northwset Happenings
5. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
6. Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
7. Re: The Never Ending Saga
8. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
9. Hitch Height?
10. Re: Hitch Height?
11. Re: Hitch Height?
12. Re: Hitch Height?
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Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 18:23:48 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: The Never Ending Saga
Greetings,
In preparation for the epoxy floor repairs, I removed the fresh water
tank today to gain access to the rotten wood under it. It appears the
rotten wood has been caused by numerous pin-hole leaks in the water
tank. This tank is not the original (I assume) galvanized pressure tank,
but an aluminum cylinder. Cutting to the chase, I now need a new fresh
water tank, and I'd really like to keep the features of the pressure
tank. I don't have a 12 volt system, and I can't afford to install one
with everything else that needs work and replacement, so a water pump is
not an option at the moment.
Has anyone else here been able to find replacement pressure tanks? I've
read the VAC FAQ, and it looks like the sources there only produce
polyethylene tanks. If I can't purchased a pressure tank, does anyone
know where I'd go to have one fabricated?
*sigh*
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander (quickly falling apart)
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 20:44:08 -0600
From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
I had the same problem last year. See http://nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm
I found the round galvanized tank in several local RV parts stores. My
Airstream Repair Center in Pensacola could even still get the round
metal tank. Problem was the expense at about $500-$600 for a new tank.
It was cheaper to buy a new All-Rite tank and the ShurFlo pump. I used
the same 12 V power for the new pump. My old system had a 12 V air pump
to pressurize the water tank.
"T. Byrd" wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> In preparation for the epoxy floor repairs, I removed the fresh water
> tank today to gain access to the rotten wood under it. It appears the
> rotten wood has been caused by numerous pin-hole leaks in the water
> tank. This tank is not the original (I assume) galvanized pressure tank,
> but an aluminum cylinder. Cutting to the chase, I now need a new fresh
> water tank, and I'd really like to keep the features of the pressure
> tank. I don't have a 12 volt system, and I can't afford to install one
> with everything else that needs work and replacement, so a water pump is
> not an option at the moment.
>
> Has anyone else here been able to find replacement pressure tanks? I've
> read the VAC FAQ, and it looks like the sources there only produce
> polyethylene tanks. If I can't purchased a pressure tank, does anyone
> know where I'd go to have one fabricated?
>
> *sigh*
>
> --
> Ted Byrd
> 1958 Overlander (quickly falling apart)
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 22:15:19 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga
Sounds to me like you are describing the original pressure tank.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 8:23 PM
Subject: [VAC] The Never Ending Saga
. ...This tank is not the original (I assume) galvanized pressure tank,
> but an aluminum cylinder. ...
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 21:32:59 -0800
From: Patrick Ewing <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Northwset Happenings
Charlotte,
Yes, ............ there are a number of vintage Airstream owners in your
area. I live just south of the border in Everson, WA. Feel free to get
in touch (off list) and we can talk. I'm the VAC rep. for your area.
This next August we're having the 2nd annual Majestic Mt. Baker rally
just out of Bellingham, WA. It'll be held at the Deming Log Show
Grounds. It's a beautiful place and it'll be another terrific rally.
Anyone that's interested in four days of fun and fellowship with like
minded trailer folks should consider attending. We allow for much
visiting time as well as many interesting functions.
Please contact me privately at <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> if you're interested.
Thanks,
Pat Ewing
1947 23 ft. Liner
1961 16 ft. Bambi
1972 31 ft. Sovereign International
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:30:57 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> The window is part of the problem in that it is made up of a number of
> extrusions that are held together with screws. A stronger window has a one
> piece frame, therefore considerably stronger. Andy
> -----------------------------------
Andy and all ,
That sounds like it could be a potential problem . I did notice that the inner
skin is not riveted directly to the window , it is attached to the window trim
piece that is in turn riveted to the window which is as you said , made up of
separate extrusions .
Having the window and the door so close together without any stringers
horizontally or continuos skin in the area seems like it could be a part of
the problem . Having a row of three windows so closely spaced on the other
side cant help .
However the jalousie , the great light from the wall o windows on the
other side ,and the open layout is what attracted me to the trailer in the
first place , so I dont have any intent of changing out the window(s) . I may
try to make the frame around it more solid , and I may add some stringers for
and aft in the roof . And then there is the old saying ,if it aint broke ,dont
fix it.
But where I have it opened up now , I thought I might reinforce it and
prevent a trouble down the road .
Thanks for the replys , I appreciate the help . If any of you have any pics
of gutted out airstream structure any year or model , feel free to send them
to me , I`m interested in how the design has evolved ( re WAM`s letter
yesterday )
Also If anyone has any experience building airstreams or airplanes and
design principals involved regarding beefing up roof stringers , love to
hear from you .
I am also thinking about replacing the long exterior roof panel which has a
flat dent and some corrosion , I understand how a hammered type rivet is
stronger than an olympic style , The underside is open now so I could do it ,
but will the structure hold up without any skin on that side - would it need
temporary support ? I have auto body experience , but this is new territory
for me . Or maybe a phony vent and call it good ...
Chris ( 3 days no smoking ! )
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:02:32 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga - Metal water tank
H Spies wrote:
>
> I had the same problem last year. See http://nwflorida.net/gt00005.htm
> I found the round galvanized tank in several local RV parts stores. My
> Airstream Repair Center in Pensacola could even still get the round
> metal tank. Problem was the expense at about $500-$600 for a new tank.
> It was cheaper to buy a new All-Rite tank and the ShurFlo pump. I used
> the same 12 V power for the new pump. My old system had a 12 V air pump
> to pressurize the water tank.
Thanks for the URL, H, nice site. That was a bold move replacing the
entire floor, now I'm scared. The pictures of your old, rotten floor
look much better than mine, though I'm going to try and make the repair
using penetrating epoxy and hope that it works. How did you get the new
floor bolted to the U channel and frame members without taking off the
belly pan? Did you just glue & screw the new wood into the frame? And if
so, wouldn't that weaken the structure? Not trying to second guess your
repair, it looks great, just trying to understand how this would work.
Anyway, even at $500-600 for a new tank, that sounds like a bargain
compared to the expense of installing a 12V power system. When the day
comes that I do that, I want to go with solar power, and that's a bit
pricey. Though, even if I just purchased an Intellipower/Charge Wizard,
batteries, wiring, water pump, new poly water tank, etc., I think it
would cost more than $500. So, I'm in kind of a tight spot here, and
none of my options are looking very good so far. Guess I'll start
calling Airstream dealers tomorrow and find out what the damage is going
to be. Thanks for the note, it's good to know that they're still
available at least.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 00:10:29 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: The Never Ending Saga
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
>
> Sounds to me like you are describing the original pressure tank.
Very possible Scott, I just assumed that since it's aluminum, and not
galvanized, that it's a replacement. I've been wrong before, it'll
happen again. :) That at least makes me feel just ever so slightly
better about the situation. At least if it's 44 years old and leaking,
there's hope that the next one will last as long.
BTW, is it possible to repair these tanks? Is there some way to weld
aluminum? I'd go buy a tube of JB weld, but I don't think it would hold
up to 60psi of pressure...any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:33:59 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
Chris. Every hammered in rivet you use, will fail, if you tow the trailer.
They are not intended to be used on things that "must" stay together AND not
leak water. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 10:12:43 -0700
From: Michael Matheny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Hitch Height?
Greetings, all.
I have a '63 Flying Cloud 22', which I bought mid-season last year.
I know that my hitch on my tow vehicle is too high (trailer rides
high in the front by about 5 to 10 degrees) but I'm having a hard
time figuring out *how* high, compared to the trailer -- in order to
buy the correct drop down from my tow vehicle.
The trailer is parked on hilly ground (I live in the mountains
southwest of Boulder, Colorado), and I don't think I've yet had it
parked and unhooked on level pavement.
So, my question is this: Does anyone know what my hitch height
*should* be? Is there a "standard" hitch height for airstreams of
this generation that I can at least start from? Any good ways for me
to measure (short of heading for level ground)?
Thanks!
--
- Michael Matheny
1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22
Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 12:43:23 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Mike. There is a design standard, but that changes as you load the trailer.
Somehow you will have to find a level spot, or just guess for now. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 18:50:58 +0000
From: "Frank M. 'Mitch' Hill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
At 10:12 03/13/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I know that my hitch on my tow vehicle is too high (trailer rides high in
>the front by about 5 to 10 degrees) but I'm having a hard time figuring
>out *how* high, compared to the trailer -- in order to buy the correct
>drop down from my tow vehicle.
>
>The trailer is parked on hilly ground (I live in the mountains southwest
>of Boulder, Colorado), and I don't think I've yet had it parked and
>unhooked on level pavement.
>
>So, my question is this: Does anyone know what my hitch height *should*
>be? Is there a "standard" hitch height for airstreams of this generation
>that I can at least start from? Any good ways for me to measure (short of
>heading for level ground)?
. .
Hi Mike,
I have a 1964 Airstream Ambassador International model. The manual shows
the recommended hitch height as 20 1/2" to the top of the hitch ball on the
tow vehicle. I believe this is the same for all Airstreams of that
vintage. However, this will change depending on load in the trailer, age of
the trailers springs and the type of tires on the trailer.
What I do is, periodically on a weekend, tow my rig down to the local
school, and use the paved parking lot to check for trailer and truck being
level.
I have changed my trailer to Dexter wheels and ST225 radials which are
slightly smaller in diameter than the original bias type tires., plus as my
trailer has the original duratorque (?) type axles on it, The axles have
settled a bit, I now figure the hitch height is about 18 1/2" As I use a
Reese WD type hitch, it is easy to adjust for truck and trailer being
level. The original Reese towbar that comes with the Reese WD hitch has
enough adjustment range to allow me to keep everything level and in alignment.
TNX, 73, Mitch - WA1YKN
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 17:07:53 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hitch Height?
Go find a horse trailer place, they will fix you up, but better fill the
tanks and put in some beer so you have a more realistic "travelin"
weight.
Daisy
Michael Matheny wrote:
>
> Greetings, all.
>
> I have a '63 Flying Cloud 22', which I bought mid-season last year.
>
> I know that my hitch on my tow vehicle is too high (trailer rides
> high in the front by about 5 to 10 degrees) but I'm having a hard
> time figuring out *how* high, compared to the trailer -- in order to
> buy the correct drop down from my tow vehicle.
>
> The trailer is parked on hilly ground (I live in the mountains
> southwest of Boulder, Colorado), and I don't think I've yet had it
> parked and unhooked on level pavement.
>
> So, my question is this: Does anyone know what my hitch height
> *should* be? Is there a "standard" hitch height for airstreams of
> this generation that I can at least start from? Any good ways for me
> to measure (short of heading for level ground)?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> - Michael Matheny
>
> 1963 Airstream Flying Cloud 22
> Coal Creek Canyon, Colorado
>
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>
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------------------------------
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