VACList-Digest Tuesday, March 12, 2002 Issue 238
Today's Topics:
1. Dial page
2. Re:
3. Re: Plumbing
4. Re: Plumbing
5. Re: Windows and metal fatigue
6. Re: Vulkem, Sikaflex, etc.
7. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
8. Re: Plumbing
9. Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
10. Re: Plumbing
11. Re: Plumbing
12. compression fittings
13. Re: Plumbing
14. Re: Plumbing
15. Re: Plumbing
16. Re: Plumbing
17. Re: Plumbing
18. Re: Plumbing
19. compression fittings
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 16:59:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Odessa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dial page
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Maybe I can contribute something to this list after all. Someone asked for
information on the Dial page. This would be the link:
www.vintageairstream.com
I think i have read every word at this site at least three times. Lots of info that
will sure come in handy when I find my Airstream.
Hope it helps!
Tim Baker
Future Vintage Airstream Owner
---------------------------------
Do You Yahoo!?
Try FREE Yahoo! Mail - the world's greatest free email!
--0-1768162407-1015894785=:6330
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
<P>Maybe I can contribute something to this list after all. Someone asked for
information on the Dial page. This would be the link:</P>
<P><A href="http://www.vintageairstream.com";>www.vintageairstream.com</A></P>
<P>I think i have read every word at this site at least three times. Lots of
info that will sure come in handy when I find my Airstream.</P>
<P>Hope it helps!</P>
<P>Tim Baker</P>
<P>Future Vintage Airstream Owner</P>
<P> </P><p><br><hr size=1><b>Do You Yahoo!?</b><br>
Try FREE <a href="$rd_url/tag/http://mail.yahoo.com/";>Yahoo! Mail</a> - the world's
greatest free email!
--0-1768162407-1015894785=:6330--
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:02:11 -0700
From: "Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
We're new to WBCCI & VAC, but we agree with Wendy. We have found our local
Unit members to be wonderful; very supportive and encouraging to those of us
with an "old" trailer. We don't wish to belong to the VAC only and feel the
tent is big/diverse enough for all. Some give the impression they don't
receive enough "value" received for their dues. The dues are peanuts
compared to the restoration costs, and if nothing else, view them as a
contribution towards a P.A.C. which lobbies on your behalf and represents
your interests.
Rob & Shari Davis
'64 GlobeTrotter
> Message Number: 1
> Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 19:51:27 EST
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Membership
>
> Am I missing something here or are there still a lot of people that think
> that the VAC should be completely separate from WBCCI? Start your own
club
> and leave VAC to true and supportive AIRSTREAM owners....what am I missing
> here Toby? RJ? Scott?
>
> Wendy
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:35:17 -0700
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Jerry Sulkin
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:49 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Plumbing
I put water to my 71 Safari a couple of days ago for the first time since I
bought it a year ago. When I got back into the trailer after turning on the
hose I was shocked to find water rolling down the hall from under the rear
bath shower pan. There are hot and cold copper lines that run under the
entry lip of the shower pan to the sink on the opposite side of the trailer.
One of the lines had obviously froze at some point and burst. I am thinking
of replacing all of the old copper piping from the water heater on with poly
tubing and compression fittings. I am thinking of using brass fittings with
the poly tubing because they are much smaller than the PEX or Flair-it
fittings. Has anyone tried this combination? Any insight would be
appreciated.
Jerry Sulkin
Facilities Project Manager
Chemeketa Community
Phone: 503-399-2591
Fax: 503-399-2595
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 18:35:19 -0700
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Jerry,
I've had good luck with the poly. I tried to use the fittings that splice
copper to the poly, but found that most of the time the copper had expanded
and I couldn't get a fit. Mine was so bad that I just tore the whole system
out and replaced it with poly. If you can get to a compression fitting it
will work fine. Good Luck!
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
Jerry Sulkin
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:49 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Plumbing
I put water to my 71 Safari a couple of days ago for the first time since I
bought it a year ago. When I got back into the trailer after turning on the
hose I was shocked to find water rolling down the hall from under the rear
bath shower pan. There are hot and cold copper lines that run under the
entry lip of the shower pan to the sink on the opposite side of the trailer.
One of the lines had obviously froze at some point and burst. I am thinking
of replacing all of the old copper piping from the water heater on with poly
tubing and compression fittings. I am thinking of using brass fittings with
the poly tubing because they are much smaller than the PEX or Flair-it
fittings. Has anyone tried this combination? Any insight would be
appreciated.
Jerry Sulkin
Facilities Project Manager
Chemeketa Community
Phone: 503-399-2591
Fax: 503-399-2595
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:27:43 -0500
From: "Wayne A. Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Windows and metal fatigue
Hey Chris,
I hate to tell you, that what you see is what you get inside all
Airstreams of that vintage. The only full ribs from one side to the other
are the ones at the edges of the front and rear curved end caps. All the
rest are half ribs. The main carrying members are the two aluminum channels
that extend the length of the straight section of the trailer. These are
usually reinforced between the Hehr Vents with scrap sheets of exterior
shell Aluminum 2024T3 or 2030T3 prior to the installation of the interior
panels.
I have a 61 Flying Cloud 22' that has yet to show even a trace level of
stress in the area mentioned however that is not to say that it doesn't
happen. Many items on these trailers were under-designed for strength in
favor of their lightweight characteristics. In some cases only time tested
elements show failures while others built at a different time with slightly
different material and a different assembler show no signs of fatigue. I
have had a number of these apart and the one constant that I have run into
is that they are all slightly different. It shows just how variable the
production processes were back in the 50's and 60's. Even the same models
have variations from unit to unit. I'm not talking Decor, I'm talking about
how the units were framed inside and the methods of bending and cutting ribs
to fit in places where a full framing member will not.
That is why 50' and 60's trailers are so much lighter that the 70's and 80's
trailers. Their is less aluminum structure, lighter weight frames, and less
interior components.
It truly is a trade off, lightweight vs strength. Airstream has been making
the choice for 70 years.
Sometimes they succeeded sometimes they didn't.
Have fun with your teardown!
Later
WAM
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 10 Mar 2002 22:02:10 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
Well , I have some new insight into the possible cause of the potential
cracked rib problem on 22` trailers . I don't have it yet but having been
told of it , and having taken the inside panels down , I can see how it may
be an issue down the road . Because of the way the door and window line up
with the vents and windows on the other side , some of the ribs around the
door /window `s are offset by a foot or so and are cut off halfway . This
leaves only three that go from one side to the other in one piece ,approx 6`
apart. This is further apart than the ribs appear to be in my other trailers
. .
So I can see how the body might twist torsionally and rip the skin if it
was allowed to continue , if the front rib was to crack from the repeated
stress.
Make`s me realize the importance of the inner skin in the structure , and
how much flex is designed in , and just how light the framing is . I have
seen small area`s before , but this is the biggest area I`ve had to open up
. .
Cant Imagine the roof taking the weight of an ac for too long without it
caving in .
I would gladly pull the extra couple of hundred pounds if the gauge of all
the ribs and the steel chassis under it was a bit thicker . I may add a
piece
fore and aft to try and strengthen it where the ribs dont line up . Will be
looking at it for awhile ,so Ive got some time to figure out how to beef it
up without replacing the window , I still have stuff to take out . I do wish
I had done the floor work in bath before i took the ceiling out It might
make
the panels easier to line up when it comes time to reinstall them ,but I
figured I had to take the bath out , might as well take it all out , I
wanted
to rewire and clean everything . Amazing amount of mouse leavings in there .
I would really recomend taking insides out for that reason alone ,this
appeared to be a relatively clean trailer till I started poking around
. ....Plus you get to see how it goes together more clearly and the
downside of
building them light. I would not be surprised if this problem has surfaced
in
other models because of the asymetry of windows side to side , most all of
them dont line up or have vents in middle of ribs ,etc. I`ll try and take
some pics soon .
Chris 63 "flexable flyer"
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:39:48 -0500
From: Steve Hingtgen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vulkem, Sikaflex, etc.
We've gone over this before, but let me remind everyone that there is absolutely no
difference between Vulkem 116 and Vulkem 616. The 6xx series Vulkem products are
marketed by Tremco to the manufacturing industry (like vehicle construction) and the
1xx
Also, Sikaflex 221 is a good product and can be used anywhere Vulkem is used. It is
untextured (unlike 616 and 116) so is good for visible applications. Airstream uses
Sikaflex and Vulkem. I agree with the person who said it comes out of the tube very
Steve
http://www.vintagerv.com
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002 16:31:16 -0800, VACList wrote:
>Why would Airstream use 616, that costs much more than the 116, if they were equal.
>They wouldn't. Also
>Airstream does not and has not recommended 116
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:58:02 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
but WHY is the window the problem ? ( the problem I dont seem to have ) (yet
?... )
respectfully,
Chris
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Chris. Airstream tried what your going to attempt. It didn't work, in spite
> of the many times they tried it. What did work is replacing the window, as it
> was the source of the problem to start with, along with additional stringers.
> Andy
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 21:42:33 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Someone had already cut the plastic out on the face of the step into the
shower on my '71 Safari. They had replaced some damaged pipe there with
some kind of plastic tubing and a hose clamp.
The opening is still there and I will have to cover it. But I have not
tested the water system that much yet.
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 5:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Plumbing
> Jerry,
> I've had good luck with the poly. I tried to use the fittings that splice
> copper to the poly, but found that most of the time the copper had
expanded
> and I couldn't get a fit. Mine was so bad that I just tore the whole
system
> out and replaced it with poly. If you can get to a compression fitting it
> will work fine. Good Luck!
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> Jerry Sulkin
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:49 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Plumbing
>
>
> I put water to my 71 Safari a couple of days ago for the first time since
I
> bought it a year ago. When I got back into the trailer after turning on
the
> hose I was shocked to find water rolling down the hall from under the rear
> bath shower pan. There are hot and cold copper lines that run under the
> entry lip of the shower pan to the sink on the opposite side of the
trailer.
> One of the lines had obviously froze at some point and burst. I am
thinking
> of replacing all of the old copper piping from the water heater on with
poly
> tubing and compression fittings. I am thinking of using brass fittings
with
> the poly tubing because they are much smaller than the PEX or Flair-it
> fittings. Has anyone tried this combination? Any insight would be
> appreciated.
>
> Jerry Sulkin
> Facilities Project Manager
> Chemeketa Community
> Phone: 503-399-2591
> Fax: 503-399-2595
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 10:24:40 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: jalousie Windows and metal fatigue
The window is part of the problem in that it is made up of a number of
extrusions that are held together with screws. A stronger window has a one
piece frame, therefore considerably stronger. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 22:56:33 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Hello All,
Last December I closed up my 66 Safari preparing for my annual Baja
fishing trip. I unplugged house power and turned of the water source.
When I returned I found that the water pressure on my hot water side was
much lower than before I left. The hot water heater works and there is a
small flow of hot water. Cold water has plenty of pressure.
Is there an adjustment to increase hot water pressure?
Thanks and it's good to be back on the list.
Bob Kiger
Oceanside, CA
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 14:16:51 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Bob. There are no hot or cold water adjustments. That pressure is determined
by the water pump or the city water regulator. If the hot water flow is low,
that suggests a partial blockage in the water heater, or, in a line from it.
Additionally, there could be a check valve in the hot water line output from
the water heater, that again, could partially be blocked. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:58:21 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: compression fittings
A quick question for all you plumbers out there. I had a new hot water tank
professionally installed in my Overlander 2 years ago. Last summer a
compression fitting they installed with the tank broke free and I had water
all over the place, about 15 gallons worth (I have an air pressurized
system, so the fresh water tank also began to empty out). Was this a fluke,
or should I be looking to replace the new fittings/lines with something
else? Most of the rest of the water system is copper and in good condition.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 8:35 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Plumbing
> Jerry,
> I've had good luck with the poly. I tried to use the fittings that splice
> copper to the poly, but found that most of the time the copper had
expanded
> and I couldn't get a fit. Mine was so bad that I just tore the whole
system
> out and replaced it with poly. If you can get to a compression fitting it
> will work fine. Good Luck!
> Pete
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of
> Jerry Sulkin
> Sent: Monday, March 11, 2002 9:49 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList
> Subject: [VAC] Plumbing
>
>
> I put water to my 71 Safari a couple of days ago for the first time since
I
> bought it a year ago. When I got back into the trailer after turning on
the
> hose I was shocked to find water rolling down the hall from under the rear
> bath shower pan. There are hot and cold copper lines that run under the
> entry lip of the shower pan to the sink on the opposite side of the
trailer.
> One of the lines had obviously froze at some point and burst. I am
thinking
> of replacing all of the old copper piping from the water heater on with
poly
> tubing and compression fittings. I am thinking of using brass fittings
with
> the poly tubing because they are much smaller than the PEX or Flair-it
> fittings. Has anyone tried this combination? Any insight would be
> appreciated.
>
> Jerry Sulkin
> Facilities Project Manager
> Chemeketa Community
> Phone: 503-399-2591
> Fax: 503-399-2595
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 13:36:43 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Depending on the water supply, hot water heaters allowed to cool
sometimes accumulate deposits rapidly likely in the pipes too. Better to
have drained it to cut back on those deposits. My house water heater has
accumulated enough stuff in two weeks of being off to make the pressure
relief valve leak when heated again. Likely there are lime or other
deposits in your pipes adjacent to the hot water heater.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 11 Mar 2002 23:40:59 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Andy at inland RV wrote:
> Bob. There are no hot or cold water adjustments. That pressure is
determined
> by the water pump or the city water regulator. If the hot water flow is
low,
> that suggests a partial blockage in the water heater, or, in a line from
it.
> Additionally, there could be a check valve in the hot water line output
from
> the water heater, that again, could partially be blocked. Andy
>
Thanks, There is plenty of city water pressure. What is the valve with a
screw adjustment that is accessed from the rear hatch (near the toilet)?
Are there any chemical treatments to clear up such cloggage. Sounds sort of
like a clogged artery.
Bob Kiger
Oceanside
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:50:40 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Bob. That's the city water pressure regulator. That changes all the
pressures. Don't touch. To flush out the system can be done, I would reverse
flush it out through the water heater drain. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 01:00:25 -0800
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Likely there are lime or other
> deposits in your pipes adjacent to the hot water heater.
>
> Gerald J.
Hi Gerald,
I agree with your assessment. Any chemical or physical "mini-Roto
Rooter to clean such deposits.
If draining the entire system is the only answer . . . how is that
accomlished?
Bob
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:08:57 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
I've not tried to clean the house hot water heater, I just don't cool it
off. Likely muriatic acid would remove the lime, but muriatic acid also
etches steel and copper so it might be a bit strong. Perhaps some of the
phosphoric acid based lime removers would be effective. I'm not sure I'd
want to drink water after those for the next n years though.
There should be specific procedures in your airstream manual for
draining the system for northern winter storage. There are numerous
drain valves at low spots, provision for blowing air into the system and
a procedure to open the drain valves, tilt the tongue up, and then down
to slosh water out of the nearly horizontal lines. That should empty the
water heater too. Often there's a set of water heater isolation valves
and a drain valve on the water heater for just draining the water
heater. There's been many a plumbing problem caused by neglecting to
drain well, generally found the next spring by water on the floor from
the split pipes.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 15:53:13 -0600
From: lefty frizzell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Plumbing
Lefty Frizzell
http://home.earthlink.net/~leftyfrizzell
****
I can only please one person per day.
Today is not your day.
Tomorrow is not looking too good either.
****
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: March 12, 2002 14:51
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Plumbing
Bob. That's the city water pressure regulator. That changes all the
pressures. Don't touch. To flush out the system can be done, I would
reverse
flush it out through the water heater drain. Andy
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 12 Mar 2002 17:51:52 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: compression fittings
Hi Scott,
Forty years ago, I used compression fittings to repair frozen water lines in
our first "used" travel trailer and had the same experience you described.
This occurred inspite of me being a skilled compression fitting installer.
Since then, I only use flared fittings in our travel trailers and have never
had another problem. Friends and relatives chide me for doing things the old
fashioned way and for wasting my money on copper tubing. One of the benefits
of being an adult is that opinions of others are irrelevant when the task
involves me playing with my own toys.
Five years ago, I installed an Emerson Instant hot water heater (1/3 gallon)
under the counter top of our 1977 31' Airstream. That job included tapping
off a copper water line. It's now close to 50,000 miles later and untold
bumpy roads with not one single leak in that line (or any other line).
Granted, I don't and won't flare old copper. Instead, I trace the line to
the nearest fitting and then replace everything with new copper - and
continue on to the next fitting. Overkill? Maybe - or maybe not.
If I was in your shoes, there's no question about what I'd do, or what I'd
contract with someone else to do for me. Contracting would mean finding
someone willing to use the old skills. That might be the hardest part of the
entire job.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
---------------
> on 03/12/02 1:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> A quick question for all you plumbers out there. I had a new hot water tank
> professionally installed in my Overlander 2 years ago. Last summer a
> compression fitting they installed with the tank broke free and I had water
> all over the place, about 15 gallons worth (I have an air pressurized system,
> so the fresh water tank also began to empty out). Was this a fluke, or should
> I be looking to replace the new fittings/lines with something else? Most of
> the rest of the water system is copper and in good condition.
>
> Scott
>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To:
>> "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March
>> 11, 2002 8:35 PM Subject: [VAC] Re: Plumbing
>>
>> Jerry, I've had good luck with the poly. I tried to use the fittings that
>> splice copper to the poly, but found that most of the time the copper had
>> expanded and I couldn't get a fit. Mine was so bad that I just tore the
>> whole system out and replaced it with poly. If you can get to a compression
>> fitting it will work fine. Good Luck! Pete
>>
>>> -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Jerry Sulkin Sent: Monday, March
>>> 11, 2002 9:49 AM To: Multiple recipients of VACList Subject: [VAC] Plumbing
>>>
>>> I put water to my 71 Safari a couple of days ago for the first time since I
>>> bought it a year ago. When I got back into the trailer after turning on the
>>> hose I was shocked to find water rolling down the hall from under the rear
>>> bath shower pan. There are hot and cold copper lines that run under the
>>> entry lip of the shower pan to the sink on the opposite side of the trailer.
>>> One of the lines had obviously froze at some point and burst. I am thinking
>>> of replacing all of the old copper piping from the water heater on with poly
>>> tubing and compression fittings. I am thinking of using brass fittings with
>>> the poly tubing because they are much smaller than the PEX or Flair-it
>>> fittings. Has anyone tried this combination? Any insight would be
>>> appreciated.
>>>
>>> Jerry Sulkin Facilities Project Manager Chemeketa Community Phone:
>>> 503-399-2591 Fax: 503-399-2595
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #238
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