VACList-Digest Friday, March 8, 2002 Issue 234
Today's Topics:
1. Vulkem
2. Re: Silicone vs. vulkem
3. Silicone vs. Vulkem 116
4. Re: 73 Center bath mirror
5. Re: Vulkem
6. Re: Vulkem
7. Extending the Twin bed/settee
8. Re: Vulkem
9. DMV regitration
10. Re: DMV regitration
11. Hehr Vents
12. Thetford Slide-O-Matic
13. Re: Hehr Vents
14. Re: Extending the Twin bed/settee
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 17:13:27 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Vulkem
. ...and on the Vulkem topic:
I have been trying for the last two weeks to locally source Vulkem
636,which is what is suggested for sealing old Airstreams.I need some soon
for my polishing project on my '67 unit.I am in Canada,so maybe that is why
I am having troubles finding it....but my local Vulkem supplier suggested
Sikaflex 221(available in gray)instead.Said it was slightly superior to
Vulkem 636.
Anyone used Sikaflex before?Curuous if I should go ahead and trust his
judgement,or mail order some Vulkem 636?
Charlotte
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 18:17:01 -0700
From: Don Horn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Silicone vs. vulkem
Another opinion from the Airstream Dreams site --they prefer 636.
( http://www.airstreamdreams.com/generic.html?pid=29 )
> Here are excerpts from Tremco descriptions of 636: "Vulkem 636 is specially
> designed for use in the joints of vehicles such as trucks, containers,
> mobile homes, recreational vehicles, rail cars and similar items where the
> joints are subjected to stress and vibration as well as expansion and
> contraction...Once cured, Vulkem 636 exhibits tenacious adhesion and has the
> ability to be subjected to stress and vibration as well as expansion and
> contraction within a joint... Vulkem 636 is especially effective in holding
> roof sheets in place against normal load vibration and air forces...Rivets
> may be set through the uncured Vulkem 636, which will act as a sealer."
Also note their comments on 116 vs. 616.
That little old trouble maker,
Don
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 14:50:15 EST
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Silicone vs. vulkem
>
> Tremco says 116 is for wood and masonry. It is also cheap. Vulkem 616 is for
> metals and the like and Airstream puts it on prior to painting, at least
> until the prefinished metal was used. Why would Airstream use 616, that costs
> much more than the 116, if they were equal.
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 7 Mar 2002 20:35:19 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Silicone vs. Vulkem 116
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Hello,
Dropping out of lurk mode for a minute to drop my $.02 in. I'm a sheet metal
installer by trade. We use Vulkem 116 extensively. (By the way, WD-40 works
wonders taking it off of things you didn't want it to stick to....hands,
kids, tools, etc...) Silicone will not stick reliably to sheet metal.
Vulkem will, if you'd like a little better color selection there is a product
called "SikaFlex" that works as well as Vulkem and comes in a great many more
colors. The only negative I have found is that it is thinner than Vulkem.
On a hot day it almost pours out of the tube. One last tip, don't just
squirt sealants out of the tubes and expect them to seal water leaks. If you
don't "tool" the sealant into the joint, it will not seal. (I "tool" with my
finger.)
Thanks for listening,
Marshall O.
(still looking for that Airstream to go behind my Willys)
Oceanside, CA
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><BODY BGCOLOR="#ffffff"><FONT COLOR="#0000a0"
style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman"
LANG="0"><B>Hello,<BR>
<BR>
Dropping out of lurk mode for a minute to drop my $.02 in. I'm a sheet metal
installer by trade. We use Vulkem 116 extensively. (By the way, WD-40
works wonders taking it off of things you didn't want it to stick to....hands, kids,
tools<BR>
Thanks for listening,<BR>
<BR>
Marshall O.<BR>
(still looking for that Airstream to go behind my Willys)<BR>
<BR>
Oceanside, CA</B></FONT></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 21:50:48 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 73 Center bath mirror
Well, yes it was rather a project.
first I drilled out the rivets that held the extrusions on and the
rivets that held the three different catches on ( what do you have for
catches ?) the vinyl clad aluminum came off easy, but the double faced
tape was holding on like a scared clam. I used a small screwdriver to
get a narrow crack open and sprayed a ton of WD-40 in there, hoping to
dissolve the stickum. It did, sort of, but I had to gently push the
screwdriver in, turn it on edge slowly and work my way down. I put a
1/4" rat tailed file in the gap, and as i opened it up the file fell
down and held it away. I did break the mirror, but it's no good anyway.
I am having a new mirror cut, and will report on stage two.
Daisy
>
> My '77 Mid-bath mirror has the same problem. That's WAY down on the
> priority list to fix, but I was wondering if you had any problems getting
> the "sandwich" apart?
>
> Dave
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Dave & Ann Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> WBCCI: 5074
>
> 1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 07 Mar 2002 22:01:49 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vulkem
Charlotte:
Sikaflex makes the stickies marine glue I ever met, but as caulking an
Airstream is quite the project, and Vulkem is the right stuff, I would
go to:
http://www.airstreamdreams.com/
and get the real stuff. Vulkem sticks well and remains slightly flexible
even after 30 years. If you use something else, you may have to remove
it and do it over....some folks think polishing is great fun, but I
don't think anyone likes to caulk.
Daisy
Charcigar wrote:
>
> ...and on the Vulkem topic:
>
> I have been trying for the last two weeks to locally source Vulkem
> 636,which is what is suggested for sealing old Airstreams.I need some soon
> for my polishing project on my '67 unit.I am in Canada,so maybe that is why
> I am having troubles finding it....but my local Vulkem supplier suggested
> Sikaflex 221(available in gray)instead.Said it was slightly superior to
> Vulkem 636.
>
> Anyone used Sikaflex before?Curuous if I should go ahead and trust his
> judgement,or mail order some Vulkem 636?
>
> Charlotte
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 01:43:05 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Vulkem
Daisy Welch wrote:
> Charlotte:
>
> Sikaflex makes the stickies marine glue I ever met, but as caulking an
> Airstream is quite the project, and Vulkem is the right stuff, I would
> go to:
>
> http://www.airstreamdreams.com/
>
> and get the real stuff. Vulkem sticks well and remains slightly flexible
> even after 30 years. If you use something else, you may have to remove
> it and do it over....some folks think polishing is great fun, but I
> don't think anyone likes to caulk.
>
> Daisy
I would much rather polish than caulk, thank goodness for Martha, High
Priestess of Caulk and Weather Strip. She's quite adorable in her jewel
studded blue beret, wielding the "scepter" of Vulkem. I ordered the
Vulkem 636 from Airstream Dreams and it took less than a week to arrive.
We had our first good rain tonight since we started sealing, and so far,
no leaks. Has anyone discovered a good method of getting Vulkem out of
your teeth?
I recently purchased a spray can of 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover
from NAPA, and it claims to remove silicone rubber, though I have yet to
put it to the test. At $9.00/can, it had better do something useful.
I'll post my results to the list when I have them, along with a part
number. The pile of chemical containers is mounting, so far, the
silicone is winning.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 06:46:56 -0800
From: Charcigar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Extending the Twin bed/settee
Hi Everyone,
I have heard about folks altering the pull-out twin bed/lounge unit that is
located along the middle of certain layouts.This alteration extends the bed
size to a standard double bed width.I understand how the cushions need to be
altered,but carpentry is not exactly my forte!
So my question is,how difficult is altering the pull-out to make this
work?Does it require JUST an alteration of the exisiting pull-out,or does it
require a TOTAL re-build of the entire wood frame?
I am taking the old cushions in later today for new foam and
re-upholstery....so need to make a call on whether to have that particular
cushion set altered.
Thank you in advance.
Charlotte
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 10:11:31 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Vulkem
Charlotte. We have the Vulkem. Andy
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 15:12:13 GMT
From: "**STANDARD** Everett Jiles" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DMV regitration
I acquired a "basket case" 58 traveler and have been replacing the floors
and soon will be rebuilding the original fixtures. I wasn�t sure I'd ever
get this far and now I am wondering how to get this thing DMV registered. I
have a hand written 'bill of sale' from a person who claimed ownership,,
but,, the registration sticker on the license plate is from 1972. I'd like
to know if anyone has gone through the entire DMV loop of Title
search/fees/registration and do you have any advice on getting it done?
Also , at some future date I�d like to �re-register� the original WBCCI
numbers, is that possible or do I have to get new numbers? Thanks Everett
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 08:29:43 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DMV regitration
Everett,
I think different states handle it differently, but here in AZ, I have gone
through this before. I acquired at a low auction price an old Honda
dirt/street bike with a license plate date of the early 80s. I contacted the
DMV and told them the story. Their requirements were to send a certified
letter to the last known address that the motorcycle was registered to. When
it was returned as " not at this address" we could proceed with a lost
title. Time consuming but worth the hassle. As far as the old WBCCI numbers,
call the WBCCI main office and verify the availability of those numbers. If
they are available, they will be glad to issue them to you and your
Traveler.
Brad
Phoenix
on 3/8/02 8:12 AM, **STANDARD** Everett Jiles at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> I acquired a "basket case" 58 traveler and have been replacing the floors
> and soon will be rebuilding the original fixtures. I wasn?t sure I'd ever
> get this far and now I am wondering how to get this thing DMV registered. I
> have a hand written 'bill of sale' from a person who claimed ownership,,
> but,, the registration sticker on the license plate is from 1972. I'd like
> to know if anyone has gone through the entire DMV loop of Title
> search/fees/registration and do you have any advice on getting it done?
> Also , at some future date I?d like to ?re-register? the original WBCCI
> numbers, is that possible or do I have to get new numbers? Thanks Everett
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 11:22:05 -0500
From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Hehr Vents
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Restoration can be overwhelming, so I decided, that for today, I would =
choose a simple task. And after three hours of no success, I decided to =
confirm with the experts. I have an operable Hehr vent that doesn't =
closed on one side because of the configuration of the vent operator =
(made by Ladeau Mfg. LA). The internal screw mechanism extends past the =
outer housing by one inch, so when in the closed position does not close =
the vent. The previous owner said he was told this was by design, which =
makes sense in providing a minimal amount of ventilation at all times. =
But the vent seems to be designed to close, with a substantial gasket =
and seat that in my case are never used. Also, in my unit the fanned =
vent is always open, providing plenty of airflow.
So, I've tried everything I could think of, short of destruction. Does =
anyone have experience with these openers? Are they designed not to =
close the vent and if so does anyone have ideas on alterring them so =
they do close?
Thank you,
Rick Langer
'66 Globe Trotter
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<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Restoration can be overwhelming, so I decided, that =
for today,=20
I would choose a simple task. And after three hours of no success, I =
decided to=20
confirm with the experts. I have an operable Hehr vent that doesn't =
closed on=20
one side because of the configuration of the vent operator (made by =
Ladeau Mfg.=20
LA). The internal screw mechanism extends past the outer housing by one =
inch, so=20
when in the closed position does not close the vent. The previous owner =
said he=20
was told this was by design, which makes sense in providing a minimal =
amount of=20
ventilation at all times. But the vent seems to be designed to close, =
with a=20
substantial gasket and seat that in my case are never used. Also, in my =
unit the=20
fanned vent is always open, providing plenty of airflow.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>So, I've tried everything I could think of, short of =
destruction. Does anyone have experience with these openers? Are they =
designed=20
not to close the vent and if so does anyone have ideas on alterring them =
so they=20
do close?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thank you,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rick Langer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'66 Globe Trotter</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 8 Mar 2002 12:10:05 -0500
From: "Rick Langer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Thetford Slide-O-Matic
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This is my second question of the day. I hope I'm not abusing my =
welcome, but I am sitting here and you're sitting there. I promise not =
to ask any questions tomorrow.
I removed my toilet to fix a black water problem and to strengthen the =
floor under it. Before reinstalling it, I'm wondering if this toilet is =
worth reinstalling or maybe I should research a replacement. The =
configuration is water-in to a valve, water-out to a vacuum breaker =
(v-360-a, sloan valve co.), and back to the rim of the bowl. There's =
another hose from the bowl back to the slide, which is plastic with an =
internal spring. This configuration is messy and as usual, with my unit, =
has silicone holding some of the components in place. One of the vacuum =
breaker hoses seems to be repaired with a garden hose and clamps.
Following Wally's advice, I don't want to just change it, but I do want =
to improve it if I need to do so. I can't operate the toilet because the =
unit is winterize right now. Can someone tell me how this toilet works =
and, if in practice, are all of these gadgets needed or does one =
basically just uses the sprayer to flush the toilet.
Doublely Thanks,
Rick Langer
'66 Globe Trotter
p.s. If the vacuum breaker is an intregal part, does it need to be piped =
to the closet and then back to the toilet?
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4522.1800" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#b8b8b8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is my second question of the day. I hope I'm =
not abusing=20
my welcome, but I am sitting here and you're sitting there. I promise =
not to ask=20
any questions tomorrow.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I removed my toilet to fix a black water problem and =
to=20
strengthen the floor under it. Before reinstalling it, I'm wondering if =
this=20
toilet is worth reinstalling or maybe I should research a replacement. =
The=20
configuration is water-in to a valve, water-out to a vacuum breaker =
(v-360-a,=20
sloan valve co.), and back to the rim of the bowl. There's another hose =
from the=20
bowl back to the slide, which is plastic with an internal spring. This=20
configuration is messy and as usual, with my unit, has silicone holding =
some of=20
the components in place. One of the vacuum breaker hoses seems to be =
repaired=20
with a garden hose and clamps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Following Wally's advice, I don't want to just =
change it, but=20
I do want to improve it if I need to do so. I can't operate the toilet =
because=20
the unit is winterize right now. Can someone tell me how this =
toilet works=20
and, if in practice, are all of these gadgets needed or does one =
basically=20
just uses the sprayer to flush the toilet.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Doublely Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Rick Langer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'66 Globe Trotter</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>p.s. If the vacuum breaker is an intregal part, does =
it need=20
to be piped to the closet and then back to the=20
toilet?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 10:58:43 -0700
From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hehr Vents
> Rick Langer wrote:
>
> Restoration can be overwhelming, so I decided, that for today, I would
> choose a simple task. And after three hours of no success, I decided
> to confirm with the experts. I have an operable Hehr vent that doesn't
> closed on one side because of the configuration of the vent operator
> (made by Ladeau Mfg. LA). The internal screw mechanism extends past
> the outer housing by one inch, so when in the closed position does not
> close the vent.
Hey Rick,
As I am learning, the simple tasks are those that take only one day.
Yes, the screw mechanism is designed to extend beyond the outer housing.
There is a rod in the screw mechanism that extends as well. Looking up
at the mechanism, you'll notice two little "arms" that extend from a
bracket riveted to the vent frame on the body. These "arms" attach to
both sides of the mechanism at it's base. It looks like they're riveted
to the mechanism, but they aren't, they're pins. Carefully pry one of
the arms away from the mechanism with a screwdriver or something and you
*should* be able to take the mechanism off. Repeat on the other side,
lift the vent cover, mechanisms and all, out of it's hole, then you can
turn it sideways and pull it through the vent opening diagonally to get
it inside the coach. Now you can inspect the mechanism, it might have
something stuck in it, or it may just need to be lubricated with a bit
of white lithium grease. As for the fanned vent, you'll have to remove
the fan first, or climb up and take it off the roof once you've released
it. This, at least, is how it works on my '58.
Good luck.
--
Ted Byrd
1958 Overlander
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 08 Mar 2002 15:43:49 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Extending the Twin bed/settee
Hi Charlotte,
Several years ago, I asked Billy Pollard in Jackson, Mississippi if I could
make a direct swap with him. He found an identical bed in one of his Quonset
Hut spare parts buildings and I did the deed (hardware and all). It took me
less than two hours. Simple enough and the price was right.
Why am I telling you this? Regardless of where you live, it might be
beneficial to check what's hanging around in storage lots at various RV
dealerships. I've found more bone yards that way than I have storage room to
carry the stuff I just have to have. <grin>
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-----------------------------
on 03/08/02 9:46 AM, Charcigar at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
> I have heard about folks altering the pull-out twin bed/lounge unit that is
> located along the middle of certain layouts.This alteration extends the bed
> size to a standard double bed width.I understand how the cushions need to be
> altered,but carpentry is not exactly my forte!
>
> So my question is,how difficult is altering the pull-out to make this
> work?Does it require JUST an alteration of the exisiting pull-out,or does it
> require a TOTAL re-build of the entire wood frame?
>
> I am taking the old cushions in later today for new foam and
> re-upholstery....so need to make a call on whether to have that particular
> cushion set altered.
>
> Thank you in advance.
>
> Charlotte
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #234
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