VACList DigestVACList-Digest Sunday, July 14, 2002 Issue 364
Today's Topics:
1. Deadbolt on a 65 TW for sale
2. After Stripping....
3. Re: After Stripping....
4. Re: Safety on the road
5. Re: '74 Argosy Electrical Problems . . .
6. Airstream story
7. Re: After Stripping....
8. Re: '74 Argosy Electrical Problems . . .
9. Re: Deadbolt on a 65 TW for sale
10. Re: Overpriced
11. loose cabinet doors...
12. Re: loose cabinet doors...
13. Re: loose cabinet doors...
14. Re: loose cabinet doors...
15. Re: After Stripping....
16. Twin bed question
17. Aluminum fasteners and corrosion
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Message Number: 1
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 23:23:45 -0500
From: "Jeffrey Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Deadbolt on a 65 TW for sale
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I saw a 65 Tradewind for sale in Indianola IA last weekend that had a de=
adbolt, no key on either side. I bring this up to offer a jpeg or two to=
those interested in the idea, please contact off-list. The TW was a nic=
e unit but leaking in two places. Again, contact offline & I'll give the=
particulars & share photos. I have no interest in this rig, just burnin=
g curiosity & a digital camera. Please let's keep the CCW gun discussion=
off the list
Jeff Miller
69 Overbudget
02 Durango
Don. Deadbolts can some times be installed, but it depends on the year. S=
ome
years used different material for the door frames. The cast frame
looks great, but in reality, it's very weak when altered.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV> I saw a =
65 Tradewind for sale in Indianola IA last weekend that had a deadbolt, n=
o key on either side. I bring this up to offer a jpeg or two to tho=
se interested in the idea, please contact off-list. The TW was a ni=
ce unit but leaking in two places. Again, contact offline & I'l=
l give the particulars & share photos. I have no interest in th=
is rig, just burning curiosity & a digital camera. Please let's=
keep the CCW gun discussion off the list</DIV> <DIV>Jeff Miller</DIV> <D=
IV>69 Overbudget</DIV> <DIV>02 Durango</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV> =
;</DIV> <DIV>Don. Deadbolts can some times be installed, but it depends o=
n the year. Some<BR>years used different material for the door frames. Th=
e cast frame<BR>looks great, but in reality, it's very weak when altered.=
<BR><BR>Andy<BR>inlandrv.com<BR>airstreamparts.com<BR><BR><BR></DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML>
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Message Number: 2
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:13:23 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: After Stripping....
I am in the process of stripping my '71 Safari with Bix Stripper.
I am not interested in polishing at this time. So when I am finished, do I
have to wax it to keep the finish I am getting from the stripping?
Here are a couple of photos of my progress.
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0135.JPG
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0136.JPG
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 03:15:05 -0400
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: After Stripping....
Tim,
Nice job! How much more to go? Where'd you purchase the Bix Stripper?
Was it easy to apply? How much may you apply at a time, how many panels
or square feet each without the stripper drying out or does it even do
that?
Are you using *any* sort coating in those pictures or are they just
stripped areas?
I'm not a rocket scientist by a long shot but I would think you must
protect the skin with "something, anything" such as a carnuba wax at the
very least.
I don't know for sure if these older Airstreams (we own the 1969 29'
International Ambassador model) used 'clad' aluminum or not. Regardless
though this skin *will* surely put a light layer of corrosion over
itself if you don't at least wax the surface. Clad aluminum is a very
thin microscopic layer of pure aluminum which does cause a microscopic
layer of oxidation (corrosion) to form over itself if not at least
waxed, primed and painted, etc.
Clad aluminum works very nicely to inhibit "more" corrosion as the
oxidation process tries to prevent penetration to the aluminum alloy
base metal underneath. All bets are off if the metal gets the tiniest
scratch though as that will then pierce the microscopic layer of
oxidation formed on the top of the clad aluminum.
Aluminum that is unclad must be primed and painted to resist corrosion.
Clad aluminum must be waxed to prevent corrosion preferable before
exposure to the elements.
Me? I'd wax that nice looking job if I were you. I sure would.
Tom
Subject: [VAC] After Stripping....
: I am in the process of stripping my '71 Safari with Bix Stripper.
:
: I am not interested in polishing at this time. So when I am finished,
do I
: have to wax it to keep the finish I am getting from the stripping?
:
: Here are a couple of photos of my progress.
:
: http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0135.JPG
:
: http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0136.JPG
:
: -Tim
: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
: http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
: eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 02:41:08 -0600
From: Rob Davis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Safety on the road
Fair enough Mr. Miller...
I have to say that after following this list since the first of the
year, there are many things discussed on a daily basis that are not
strictly vintage Airstream. A small sampling: where to park at WalMarts,
should you tow in over-drive, rally reports, etc. How to travel safely
while indulging our passion for vintage trailers, seems to me as
relevant as some of the these recent topics. Let's either narrow our
focus across the board or be more open-minded.
InsideOut
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 22:13:39 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '74 Argosy Electrical Problems . . .
Yep, Dr. G.
The GFI really did it's job. The previous owner didn't object to running a
surface lead and I suppose that was supposed to correct the problem - like
the hot might have had a temporary short that burned enough wire to separate
the wires. Without the GFI in my shore power, I wouldn't have known about
the short for a while - then, I do use one of those little plug in idiot
light things that tells about the status of the circuit. Hadn't got that
far this time as the GFI wouldn't allow power to the Argosy.
I wish the belly had a small plate with a label, but not so in this case.
The '69 Safari had a receptacle behind the propane tanks. Access to the
connections is from the inside of the Safari. Two simple installations, but
not on this unit! I could cut an access if I knew generally where the
junction box is. The Safari ran lines through the A frame to about the door
and then back through another frame member to the front, then up the front
between the windows to the overhead control panel. Really tough to trace!
Unfortunately it seems that I'll have to start opening the belly. :(
Thanks for your reply and suggestion.
'74 Argosy, Joy
> There's a small plate to cover the junction box on the belly of my '68
> Caravel, no need to remove belly skin. Its labeled. I have no idea about
> the Argosy.
>
> Gerald J.
> --
> Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
> Reproduction by permission only.
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 09:36:46 -0400
From: Bob Patterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Airstream story
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Airtream story on CBS's Sunday Morning program, July 14th.
OSGOOD FILE: AIRSTREAM
For close to 70 years the airstream has been a mainstay of American
culture. It's streamlined aerodynamic design is immediately recognizable
and considered by design historians as one of the most important industrial
designs of the 20th Century. Helping to usher in the mobile home and our
love affair with the road as our manifest destiny it inspires a devotion
amongst its owners.
Bob Patterson
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<html>
Airtream story on CBS's Sunday Morning program, July 14th.<br><br>
<b>OSGOOD FILE: AIRSTREAM</b> <br>
For close to 70 years the airstream has been a mainstay of American
culture. It's streamlined aerodynamic design is immediately recognizable
and considered by design historians as one of the most important
industrial designs of the 20th Century. Helping to usher in the mobile
home and our love affair with the road as our manifest destiny it
inspires a devotion amongst its owners. <br><br>
Bob Patterson</html>
--=====================_1467859==_.ALT--
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Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 08:36:42 -0600
From: "Kenneth E. Johansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: After Stripping....
Tim
At minimum, I would use a sealer like Rollite - this will keep it in the
state it is in.... for a while. At some point the shine will fade and you
will have to do some polishing.
What I would suggest is that you do Rollite AP-300 then sealer. I know
others have used Nuvite - I have not used this product, but plan to next
time. I use this two step method on my trailer each spring and its stays
very nice.
The only way I know to keep it in its current state of shine without any
polishing is to clear coat it.
Ken Johansen
5358
1959 Traveler
1975 Tradewind
At 10:13 PM 7/13/02 -0700, you wrote:
>I am in the process of stripping my '71 Safari with Bix Stripper.
>
>I am not interested in polishing at this time. So when I am finished, do I
>have to wax it to keep the finish I am getting from the stripping?
>
>Here are a couple of photos of my progress.
>
>http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0135.JPG
>
>http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/airstream/images/Grab0136.JPG
>
>-Tim
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
>eFax (508) 590-0302
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:12:14 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '74 Argosy Electrical Problems . . .
I'm not sure the simple plug in outlet testers can detect neutral
shorted to ground, since there is that connection in the main panel
(shouldn't be in the trailer). I know they can't detect accidental
ground circuits. In the old days, "electricians" tended to run three
wire romex, but just stuff the ground wire into the box, didn't bother
to connect it. Using an outlet tester would show a grounded outlet if
the wire accidentally touched the metal box, but that wouldn't be a safe
connection because that accidental touch wouldn't carry 20 amps to
divert it from my body. I now test grounds with at least a 100 watt lamp
wired between line and ground, and for serious applications (checking
wiring after an appliance has killed the user) I have an outlet strip
wired with outlets both normal and with line and neutral swapped, so I
can use a 1.5 KW heater load and measure the voltage drop of the neutral
and ground wires with significant current in them (individually) to
check on the quality of that safety ground wiring.
Try wiggling the umbilical cord and listening for it thumping against
the floor or belly cover. Try peering along it where it enters to get a
hint of direction near inside. Search every corner from the inside, near
the water pump and under every seat cushion, behind the refrigerator,
odd places like that.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 10:12:19 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Deadbolt on a 65 TW for sale
Jeff, I'd like to see your digital photos of the dead bolt installation.
Thanks, Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 13:42:25 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Overpriced
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I'm one of those who recently joined, very enthusiastic about A/S's and
travel, but looking for our family's first rig too! Any help, or leads in
the Great Lakes region would be greatly appreciated!
Jason
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2> I'm one of those who recently joined,
very enthusiastic about A/S's and travel, but looking for our family's first rig too!
Any help, or leads in the Great Lakes region would be greatly appreciated!
<BR>
<BR>Jason</FONT></HTML>
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Message Number: 11
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 15:22:22 -0800
From: "Yosef P. Rosen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: loose cabinet doors...
Hi all, my 1967 20' Globetrotter has cabinets that go along the length of
its ceiling along both sides of the center hallway. The doors for these
cabinets swing upward and the hinges are very close to the ceiling. There
are screws along the top that hold the doors and hinges in place and they
are loose and I have no idea how to get a screwdriver in there to tighten
them. Do I need to remove the whole roof to do this??? I tried one of
those 90 degree angle ratchet screwdrivers, but even that's too big to get
in there. Thanks for any brilliant and simple ideas!
Yosef Rosen
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Message Number: 12
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:10:16 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: loose cabinet doors...
Yosef...try one of those flexible spring-type attachments that go on a Black
and Decker or other brand battery-operated screwdriver. Mine is called a
Pivot Driver and uses a hex drive as most do. The attachment is hex as well
with one end male and the other end female about 6" long. I can get in
almost any tight spot with it.
Brad Norgaard
Phoenix
'59 Trade Wind
#2699 VAC, TCT
> Hi all, my 1967 20' Globetrotter has cabinets that go along the length of
> its ceiling along both sides of the center hallway. The doors for these
> cabinets swing upward and the hinges are very close to the ceiling. There
> are screws along the top that hold the doors and hinges in place and they
> are loose and I have no idea how to get a screwdriver in there to tighten
> them. Do I need to remove the whole roof to do this??? I tried one of
> those 90 degree angle ratchet screwdrivers, but even that's too big to get
> in there. Thanks for any brilliant and simple ideas!
>
> Yosef Rosen
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 19:35:06 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: loose cabinet doors...
Yosef P. Rosen wrote:
>Hi all, my 1967 20' Globetrotter has cabinets that go along the length of
>its ceiling along both sides of the center hallway. The doors for these
>cabinets swing upward and the hinges are very close to the ceiling. There
>are screws along the top that hold the doors and hinges in place and they
>are loose and I have no idea how to get a screwdriver in there to tighten
>them.
<<..>>
I'm not sure of the arrangement- but can you remove the doors
from the hinges? This would make it easier to get to the screws
holding the hinges to the cabinet.
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:32:18 -0500
From: schuetzen - RKBA! <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: loose cabinet doors...
On Sun, 14 Jul 2002 15:22:22 -0800, "Yosef P. Rosen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>There
>are screws along the top that hold the doors and hinges in place and they
>are loose and I have no idea how to
pull the screws and rivet.
chas
--
Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T
'76 Sovereign
----------RKBA!---------------------------------
X-No-Archive: Yes
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Message Number: 15
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 16:36:12 -0700
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: After Stripping....
----- Original Message -----
From: "T Meeker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Nice job! How much more to go?
A lot ;-) I basically just started. I only have done the bottom half of
the streetside to the wheel well. That took a quart of Bix.
> Where'd you purchase the Bix Stripper?
I got it at home depot. Just picked up a gallon more for $12. Comes with a
little spray bottle.
> Was it easy to apply?
Just spray it on with the included sprayer. Have to wear eye protection and
chemical gloves. Also make sure not to get it on reflectors, marker lights,
etc.... I am thinking that I will try to brush it on in critical areas,
like around lights and such.
> How much may you apply at a time, how many panels
> or square feet each without the stripper drying out or does it even do
> that?
I just started experimenting so I did about three square feet at a time.
Waited about 15 minutes and hosed it off. Where some clearcoat remains in
spots, I had to reapply a second stripping.
>
> Are you using *any* sort coating in those pictures or are they just
> stripped areas?
Just the stripped area hit with the water hose.
-Tim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.telecom-pros.com/tim/tim
eFax (508) 590-0302
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:38:39 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Twin bed question
Tim said:
>
> But I cannot help to wonder what these braces were for. There were two on
> each bed.....
I'm sure a previous owner tossed the bolster Andy referred to and put these
braces in to hold the bottom of the back cushion out to make it a more
comfortable place to sit. I am wondering what people that still have the
bolster do with it when the bed is set up.
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2002 18:38:40 -0500
From: Dick and Kris Parins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Aluminum fasteners and corrosion
Arlen and Shirley Manning wrote:
>
> There was a comment regarding
> using aluminum oxide paste under the screw. I do not see how this would be
> of any benefit,
I have to apologize, Particularly to Dr. J who tried very hard to help me.
I originally asked if I remembered the post about Aluminum oxide correctly.
Of course I did not. The original post suggested using a small amount of
ZINC oxide ointment under stainless fasteners. While I'm sure this is not
as good as the nylon washers suggested by the Mannings I would be interested
in comments regarding the use of this pasty ointment to create a buffer
between metals.
I would also be interested in knowing what a truss head screw is. These
were referenced in the Mannings comments as well.
Thanks,
Dick
'62 Bambi
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #364
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