VACList DigestVACList-Digest Monday, September 2, 2002 Issue 413
Today's Topics:
1. Re: 62 curtain rod tabs
2. Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
3. Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
4. Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
5. Re: [A/S] Daisy's LED lighting
6. Re: Water Heater Cover
7. Re: Wiring IntellPower into 64 GT
8. Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
9. RV Parks near Philadelphia
10. Tongue Jack
11. intellipower install
12. Re: Water Heater Cover
13. Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
14. Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
15. What is it?
16. Re: Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
17. Test
18. Re: What is it?
19. Re: What is it?
20. Re: Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
21. Re: What is it?
22. electrical mystery
23. Re: What is it?
24. Re: electrical mystery
25. 1950's taillight wiring
26. Re: 1950's taillight wiring
27. Re: 1950's taillight wiring
28. Re: 1950's taillight wiring
29. Polyethyline sheets
30. Re: Wheell balencing
31. Re: Polyethyline sheets
32. Re: electrical mystery
33. Re: 1950's taillight wiring
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 20:23:47 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 62 curtain rod tabs
on 09/01/02 8:32 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> My 62 Sovereign has a small curved shower curtain track but no tabs so I
> have no clue what they look like. Does anyone have a source for these
> jewels? A pattern or description of the lopsided curtain would be nice too.
> Thanks,
> Evans
> 62 Sovereign
>
Evans,
Why don't you ask Arlene Fowler? She has tabs of all sorts. Arlene does
restorations of old Airstreams. I'll send a copy of this email to her so
she'll know what you want when you ask.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 20:45:49 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
on 09/01/02 3:56 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00.
> It is rated for 1,000# tongue weight. Is anyone
> familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason
> to be concerned with it regarding safety and very
> basic functionality? (if it even fits my rig).
Jill,
Top-crank tongue jacks always seemed more difficult for me to use than side
cranks. I had more "purchase" with the side mounted cranks.
Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 19:53:24 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
Greetings Jill!
The lift rating of the jack should be sufficient, but there are three
additional measurements that you might want to check: the maximum lift
capacity, the outside diameter of the jack tube, and the spacing of the
mounting bolts.
I would be concerned about lift height as there seems to be quite some
variance with jacks that I recently checked out. In addition, I learned
that the new jacks have larger outside diameters than the 1960s OEM
jacks which might require enlarging the mounting hole on the "A" frame,
and if the spacing of the mounting bolts is different those holes may
need adjusting.
I finally switched gears with my '64 Overlander and had a power tongue
jack installed at my "nearby" Airstream dealership. The old jack had to
be cut off with a torch as someone had welded the mounting plate and
bolts at some point in the past. I am now facing the quandary of what
to do about the tongue jack on my Argosy as the original jack is at it
maximum lift getting hitched to my Suburban and the gears seeming to be
slipping rather badly.
I will say this for a power jack, it certainly makes hitching and
unhitching far less stressful in the hot and humid Midwest!
Good luck wit your quest for a new jack!
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Jill Hari
Sent: Sunday, September 01, 2002 1:56 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Walmart Tongue Jack
Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00.
It is rated for 1,000# tongue weight. Is anyone
familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason
to be concerned with it regarding safety and very
basic functionality? (if it even fits my rig).
Jill
Oregon
1960 TW
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 19:40:20 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
Jill,
You will find the nickname "knucklebuster" is well earned for top wind jack
posts. Recommend you get a sidewinder instead. The jack Airstream used at
the time had a narrow body that fit through the hole in the lower A frame
plate. Many of the new jacks are larger and the lower plate must be
modified to make them fit. The bolt pattern should be the same.
Charlie
Jill Hari wrote:
> Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00.
> It is rated for 1,000# tongue weight. Is anyone
> familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason
> to be concerned with it regarding safety and very
> basic functionality? (if it even fits my rig).
>
> Jill
> Oregon
> 1960 TW
>
> =====
> "Everything in the Universe is subject to change...
> and everything is right on schedule."
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes
> http://finance.yahoo.com
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 23:10:19 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [A/S] Daisy's LED lighting
Hi Tom.
I have two 36 light plastic encased units over the galley area, a strip
of them over the table, and a 12 led lamp in the bathroom on the "night
light " circuit. Also a bayonet base lamp of 8 in one of the reading
lights over the sofa. the light over the door currently has an 18 led
array sitting in it, soon to be replaced by another cast in plastic
unit.
All these came from :
http://www.theledlight.com/
The light they give is cool ( ie bluish, not yellow ish like
incandescents) and very directional so you need ways to difuse the light
for general area lighting. To read by it, you need a big array, or a
medium one that is really close to the page. A bayonet style mounted in
the ceiling fixture needs a reflector of some sort to shine down.
The 18 'er over the door gives more light than the old lamp did. The one
that looks like a regular Edison base light bulb is bright, but it all
comes out the top, so the right type of lamp needs to be used, but it
does work for reading. You can use a regular desk light with an adaptor
to plug into the 12v socket.
These lamps last nearly forever, and draw a tiny fraction of even a low
wattage flourescent, so they are ideal for boon docking situations.
They are ridiculously expensive if you buy them all made up. I'd rather
by this kind of stuff than anything. The next trick is to buy the LED's
unmounted and make them up in the way I want them. You need to add a
resistor to lessen the Ampherage. I need to study on this part more.
Right now, I can do everything but read in bed with just LED's.
I might do some pix, have to see how they come out...
Daisy (73'Ambassador glowing in the dark.)
Tom wrote:
>
> Daisy,
>
> Please tell me/us about your LED lighting!
>
> Tom Meeker
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 20:38:40 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Cover
The o vs 0 doesn't work too well. Changed it to:
http://vintageairstream.com/bowen.jpg
On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 10:57 AM, Webmaster wrote:
> Which vent cover do you have? Is it this style?
> http://vintageairstream.com/h20_vent.jpg
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Sun, 01 Sep 2002 21:42:51 -0600
From: Jere Potter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wiring IntellPower into 64 GT
on 9/1/02 2:48 PM, Fred Coldwell at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I am ready to replace the Univolt transformer in my 1964
> Globe Trotter with an Intelli Power 9100 converter (40 amp
> model PD9140AR), but have a few questions on how to wire the
> IntelliPower into the Globetrotter.
Hi Fred- I did this to my '64 GT a couple of months ago, and maybe you did
not see it at the Estes Park Rally- It was one of the few things in the
trailer, as it is mostly still stripped out. It would have been good if you
could have seen it to copy the hook-up, which was all readily visible.
I Can't describe exactly how to hook up at this late hour, but I will give
it another gander, and get back to you with the details. It was not too
involved, really, I left the switches intact, as they have thermally
protected circuit breakers. But after identifying the lines, I was able to
do it, and so can you.
Jere Potter
> Fort Collins CO
'64 Globetrotter
'64 Safari
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Sun, 1 Sep 2002 21:18:50 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
Ugh, I've seen it. Lightweight piece o' junk. Looks to be for real
light utility trailers. The 2000#/5000# Atwoods or Bulldogs are still
the best bet.
While you don't have to replace the handle like we did, here is our
installation:
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/restoration/jack.html
Our 5000# rated Atwood only cost $28.
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com
Best of luck,
RJ
On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 12:56 PM, Jill Hari wrote:
> Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00.
> It is rated for 1,000# tongue weight. Is anyone
> familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason
> to be concerned with it regarding safety and very
> basic functionality? (if it even fits my rig).
> Jill
> Oregon
> 1960 TW
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 00:50:00 -0400
From: "bderus/dbrooks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RV Parks near Philadelphia
My wife and I are going to Devon (Philadelphia outskirts) in late September
for a horse show and would like to have recommendations for a good trailer
park nearby. Are there any state parks or national forest campgrounds
nearby? KOA?
Diane & Bill Derus
Thorndale, Ontario
'72 TradeWind
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 02:36:31 -0400
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tongue Jack
I love this list. Within a matter of a few hours tonight (09/01/02), Jill's
question about a tongue jack was answered with solid information, detailed
pictures and practical understanding. Wow, this is an outstanding egroup.
Terry
===================
on 09/02/02 12:18 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Ugh, I've seen it. Lightweight piece o' junk. Looks to be for real light
> utility trailers. The 2000#/5000# Atwoods or Bulldogs are still the best bet.
> While you don't have to replace the handle like we did, here is our
> installation:
>
> http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/restoration/jack.html
>
> Our 5000# rated Atwood only cost $28. https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com
>
> Best of luck, RJ
>
=========
>> Walmart has a top-crank tongue jack for $29.00. It is rated for 1,000# tongue
>> weight. Is anyone familiar with this jack? Should I have any reason to be
>> concerned with it regarding safety and very basic functionality? (if it even
>> fits my rig).
>>
>> Jill Oregon 1960 TW
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 04:02:53 -0500
From: "Todd McDonald" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: intellipower install
<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV>
<P><BR><BR></P>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>Hold on there, Y'all got the AC/DC thing mixed up here. I'm no Dr. Gerald and it's
probably just a nomenclature issue, but your intelli-power puts out DC - not AC
current. Aside from that, I used a dedicated Aluminum wire only duplex
o<P> I barely crammed 4ga. battery lines together with 12v. Airstream power lines
into the hex key DC power hookups. </P>
<P>I found 2 elektrick problems today (fixed 1 at least) and pumped water into the aft
area for the first time today-pleased to report that multiple leaks are confined to
the bath area (jacked up the foredeck and drained the bilge) excepting a drippl
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 06:22:45 -0500
From: "J.Evans Woodward III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water Heater Cover
On Sunday, September 1, 2002, at 10:57 AM, Webmaster wrote:
> Which vent cover do you have? Is it this style?
> http://vintageairstream.com/bowen.jpg
That's the one and yesterday I did it.
I bent out the tabs on the exhaust cover, flipped it over and reinstalled it
on the other side. The pilot inspection grate even popped out and reversed.
I have sheet metal tools and there was some very minor edge flange reversing
and I cut out the hole under the exhaust cover to fit the new heater. It
worked out real slick. I'll take some photos and post them tonight.
Thanks for all the advice.
Evans
62 sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:44:03 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
Hi All,
I still have to get the 8 inch drop draw bar to level my '74 Argosy. I was
having trouble attaining near identical receiver angles until I realized
that I had "0" reverse tension on the spring bars (due to the excess height
of the F250 vs. the level attitude of the trailer). I lowered the spring
bar
jack an additional hole beyond that recommended by the installation manual.
This helped, but likely I still need the 8" drop rather than the 6" I now
have. The 6" was purchased specifically for the single axle '69 Safari, so
I'll have to purchase the 8" drop right out from Hensley. I think Hunter
mentioned that the 8" drop was OK for the F250 Super Duty.
The installation of the Prodigy worked out very well when I fabricated a
bracket that fits in the pocket shelf in the dash in the F250 dash. The
rear part of the bracket is curved up from the bottom of the shelf and
wedges against the top. The Prodigy is held firm and at an acceptable
angle. I can see the digital read out and grasp the override lever easily.
The bracket is easily removed by slipping a long blade between the upper lip
of the bracket curve and the roof of the pocket.
All this done, I did the set-up adjustments with my rig traveling at 25 mph,
I attempted full power stops. The trailer brakes are actuated at near full
power in one second from application of the truck brakes. :) Different than
in the old days with non-ABS braking because I don't get any squeal from the
truck brakes. It took two or three stops to go from trailer brake squeal to
non-squeal. Also, I left the Prodigy without boost as I seemed to be
getting adequate braking. However, I noticed that there was a definite
tendency for the truck to PULL TO THE LEFT. Not something that was
difficult to control, but in an emergency situation or less than ideal road
conditions, one more thing to accommodate. :(
I haven't adjusted the brakes on the '74 Argosy as yet, and the squeal I
heard could have been from a single wheel. However, my thoughts from the
Hensley performance claim is that the trailer cannot direct the tow vehicle.
It seems like something is forcing a change in braking performance of the
truck. Without the Argosy in tow, the truck stops straight without any
change in direction under identical circumstance. Is it possible that
poorly adjusted or a malfunctioning brake on the trailer could cause this
situation despite the use of the Hensley?
Since I'm not a long term experienced driver with towing, I must rely on the
list contributors to learn smart and not by personal circumstance.
Along the same thoughts, I've read several times that use of the trailer
brakes only will straighten out the trailer/tow in most situations.
However, my neighbor (drives tractor trailer for a living) says never to
apply the trailer brakes under slippery road conditions. He claims that the
trailer will pass the tractor in a blink! So, it's worth it to me to read
what the list's experienced drivers do in dry road, wet road, and icy road
conditions. Besides staying off icy roads, are there different approaches
to emergency situations with varying road conditions?
Thanks for any information that will help me learn to tow safely the smart
way! :)
'74 Argosy, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:16:36 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Walmart Tongue Jack
Jill. You should use a 2000 pound jack.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:27:56 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: What is it?
I thought I had been over every inch of my 1976 Sovereign, but today I found
something that I can't figure out what it is. Underneath attached to the
belly pan on the front right corner is a 1/2" plastic tube about 12" long
that goes through the belly pan, inside the trailer. I can't see anything of
this from inside.
Now, the plastic tube has cracked with age and inside the tube is a small
wire cable. Its looks to have some type of attachment on the end but I can't
see for sure. I can't find anything about this in the service manual, but it
looks like it has been here for a long time.
Any ideas on what it may be?
Thanks
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 09:08:25 -0700
From: "Roger Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
I had the same problem with the truck pulling to the left when I installed
the Prodigy. Adjustment of the trailer brakes solved that.
The fact that the Hensley does not allow the trailer to direct the puller is
what creates the pull. The two units act as one, and grabbing trailer
brakes feel like grabbing truck brakes.
Nothing is wrong, but you need to fine tune the setup.
Roger Hightower
WBCCI 4165, VAC, TCT
1975 31' Sovereign, '02 F-250 PSD
Mesa, AZ
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 09:12:55 -0700
From: Brad Norgaard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Test
Test
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 12:29:19 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: What is it?
Don Hardman wrote:
>I thought I had been over every inch of my 1976 Sovereign, but today I found
>something that I can't figure out what it is. Underneath attached to the
>belly pan on the front right corner is a 1/2" plastic tube about 12" long
>that goes through the belly pan, inside the trailer. I can't see anything of
>this from inside.
>
>Now, the plastic tube has cracked with age and inside the tube is a small
>wire cable. Its looks to have some type of attachment on the end but I can't
>see for sure. I can't find anything about this in the service manual, but it
>looks like it has been here for a long time.
>
>Any ideas on what it may be?
IIRC- that's the remote sensor for the thermometer mounted
above the couch (that's what it was in my '75- my'78 doesn't have it).
--
Chris Bryant
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 10:09:54 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: What is it?
I think that's where the sensor for the thermometer is.
Bob Hightower
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 9:27 AM
Subject: [VAC] What is it?
> I thought I had been over every inch of my 1976 Sovereign, but today I
found
> something that I can't figure out what it is. Underneath attached to the
> belly pan on the front right corner is a 1/2" plastic tube about 12" long
> that goes through the belly pan, inside the trailer. I can't see anything
of
> this from inside.
>
> Now, the plastic tube has cracked with age and inside the tube is a small
> wire cable. Its looks to have some type of attachment on the end but I
can't
> see for sure. I can't find anything about this in the service manual, but
it
> looks like it has been here for a long time.
>
> Any ideas on what it may be?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 13:28:06 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Hensley - Brake Controller - Prodigy
Roger Wrote: "I had the same problem with the truck pulling to the left when
I installed the Prodigy. Adjustment of the trailer brakes solved that.
The fact that the Hensley does not allow the trailer to direct the puller
is
what creates the pull. The two units act as one, and grabbing trailer
brakes feel like grabbing truck brakes.
Nothing is wrong, but you need to fine tune the setup."
Thanks Roger,
With all the learned experiences, I was starting to feel like I had an
orphan system.
Regards, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:21:34 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: What is it?
Don. Your trailer had an external thermometer. The gauge was mounted in the
Central control panel. The metal cable for it went through that tubing and
had a "probe" on the end of it. You should also see some type of bracket that
held the probe.
Most all of those thermometers failed, and, no satisfactory replacement was
every found.
Cut the tubing and plug the hole with vulkem.
Then relax.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 11:57:10 -0800
From: "Yosef P. Rosen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: electrical mystery
Hi Wise Ones:
Me and the 67' Globetrotter just got back from a full week at the Burning
Man festival in Nevada's Black Rock desert and ran into an electrical
problem:
After the batter finally died from running the interior lights and water
pump, i tried recharging it via a gas powered generator using an adaptor for
the shore power plug. It didn't work -maybe too weak a generator -1000
watts.
I dont know if I shorted anything or if this happened for a different
reason, but now the brake lights and turn signals no longer work when
plugged into my Jeep. I checked the two visible fuses in the battery
compartment, I reset the two circuit breakers in the rear...
What do these symptoms indicate? I seem to recall something about some
"automatically resetting" breakers somewhere in the system.
Thanks,
Yosef
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:21:41 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: What is it?
Thanks, guys, learn something everyday and my thermometer still works.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 14:29:21 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: electrical mystery
Greetings Josef!
While the two incidents may be related, I would seriously doubt that
they are related. My suspicion, based on a similar recurrent problem
with my '64 Overlander, is that you aren't getting good contact between
the trailer plug and the tow vehicle receptacle. I have frequently had
to clean the brake/turn signal contacts on my trailer plug to get
brakes, brake lights and turn signals to operate. Another possibility
may be a loose wire on either the tow vehicle connector or the trailer
connector.
Good luck in locating your problem.
Kevin Allen
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1978 Argosy Minuet
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Yosef P Rosen
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 1:57 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] electrical mystery
Hi Wise Ones:
Me and the 67' Globetrotter just got back from a full week at the
Burning
Man festival in Nevada's Black Rock desert and ran into an electrical
problem:
After the batter finally died from running the interior lights and water
pump, i tried recharging it via a gas powered generator using an adaptor
for
the shore power plug. It didn't work -maybe too weak a generator -1000
watts.
I dont know if I shorted anything or if this happened for a different
reason, but now the brake lights and turn signals no longer work when
plugged into my Jeep. I checked the two visible fuses in the battery
compartment, I reset the two circuit breakers in the rear...
What do these symptoms indicate? I seem to recall something about some
"automatically resetting" breakers somewhere in the system.
Thanks,
Yosef
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 12:37:01 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1950's taillight wiring
Spent the morning installing my rebuilt Bargman #9 tail-lights and again
came across a question I never remember to ask.
The 1950's trailers with Bargman #9 tail-lights (1954 to 1959 +/-), have
independent wires for the Turn and Stop going to a dual contact base.
The Stop wire is common to the LH & RH side, but the LH & RH Turns are
independent of each other.
The socket bases have dual electrical contacts, but the bayonet sockets
have the slots set at the same height. I have never seen a dual element
bulb like that, they always are offset - at different heights.
In the past, I have just stuck a standard single contact bulb in an
ignored the stop wire.
Questions:
Were older cars wired separate for LH turn, RH turn & Stop?
Has anyone seen a dual element bulb with the bayonets at the same height
position?
Anyone do anything different with these style of lights?
Thanks,
RJ
'57 Flying Cloud
'65 Caravel
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 14:53:46 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1950's taillight wiring
RJ:
In 1955, many cars still had 6 volt electrical systems.
By 1957, most had changed to 12 volts. The Bargman #9 tail
lights span this era.
The dual element bulb with both bayonets at the same
height is the 6 volt dual element bulb, # 1154 (the bulb
also looks like it says T1126 on the side of its base).
Sometimes you see older 6 volt cars driving at night with
one tail light brighter than the other. The reason is the
bulbs have been put in differently, one with the dimmer
filament for the tail light (the correct way) and the other
with the brighter filament for the tail light (incorrect,
the brighter filament should be the stop and turn light).
The 12 volt dual filament bulb 1157 had offset bayonets
for 2 reasons, to distinguish it from the earlier 6 volt
dual filament bulb and the make it very difficult to install
incorrectly (a few people can nevertheless overcome this
obstacle) because the different height bayonets orient the
bulb in one direction only, with the brighter filament as
the stop and turn light.
You do not mention a tail light in your Bargman #9,
Typically, the smaller (dimmer) filament on a dual filament
bulb is the tail light and the larger (brighter) filament is
the stop and turn signal light. Often the brake switch is
wired through the turn signal. If the turn signal is
disengaged, the brake light switch lights up the larger
(brighter) filament as the stop light independent of the
tail light. If the brake light is on when you engage the
turn signal, the turn signal switch and blinker periodically
turn the brake light (large filament) off, thus causing it
to blink when the brakes are applied.
There are other variations of turn signal and wiring
schemes to help confuse things.
What are you doing for tail lights on your 57 FC? I
would think they would be the small (dimmer) filament in the
Bargman #9.
Fred Coldwell
Webmaster wrote:
>
> Spent the morning installing my rebuilt Bargman #9 tail-lights and again
> came across a question I never remember to ask.
>
> The 1950's trailers with Bargman #9 tail-lights (1954 to 1959 +/-), have
> independent wires for the Turn and Stop going to a dual contact base.
> The Stop wire is common to the LH & RH side, but the LH & RH Turns are
> independent of each other.
>
> The socket bases have dual electrical contacts, but the bayonet sockets
> have the slots set at the same height. I have never seen a dual element
> bulb like that, they always are offset - at different heights.
>
> In the past, I have just stuck a standard single contact bulb in an
> ignored the stop wire.
>
> Questions:
>
> Were older cars wired separate for LH turn, RH turn & Stop?
>
> Has anyone seen a dual element bulb with the bayonets at the same height
> position?
>
> Anyone do anything different with these style of lights?
>
> Thanks,
> RJ
> '57 Flying Cloud
> '65 Caravel
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 15:25:14 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1950's taillight wiring
RJ:
I'd think the wire common to both sides, which you have
labeled STOP below, would be the tail lights. The left and
right turn signal lights often include the brake light for
that side. Check the plug on your tow vehicle to see if the
left hand turn socket is also the left hand brake socket,
same for the right hand side. The L & R bright filaments
might serve a dual purpose; if not, you might wire the
trailer that way if your tow vehicle is wired that way.
Fred C.
Webmaster wrote:
>
> Spent the morning installing my rebuilt Bargman #9 tail-lights and again
> came across a question I never remember to ask.
>
> The 1950's trailers with Bargman #9 tail-lights (1954 to 1959 +/-), have
> independent wires for the Turn and Stop going to a dual contact base.
> The Stop wire is common to the LH & RH side, but the LH & RH Turns are
> independent of each other.
>
> The socket bases have dual electrical contacts, but the bayonet sockets
> have the slots set at the same height. I have never seen a dual element
> bulb like that, they always are offset - at different heights.
>
> In the past, I have just stuck a standard single contact bulb in an
> ignored the stop wire.
>
> Questions:
>
> Were older cars wired separate for LH turn, RH turn & Stop?
>
> Has anyone seen a dual element bulb with the bayonets at the same height
> position?
>
> Anyone do anything different with these style of lights?
>
> Thanks,
> RJ
> '57 Flying Cloud
> '65 Caravel
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 15:27:10 -0700
From: Webmaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1950's taillight wiring
The taillight is a different circuit and socket base. It is common to
the marker lights.
http://www.VintageAirstream.com/floyd/restoration/exteriorlights800/taillight-dis.
JPG
The trailer plug is missing, but the trailer is wired from front to end
with the one common contact on the dual base socket and the two LH/RG
circuits, for a total of three wires for stop/turn, another one for the
tail and markers, one for ground, and one for the tow vehicle battery
(for the trailer 6V-now 12V) interior light.
I guess I can just use the LH/RH wires and ignore the common Stop
circuit. I removed the front interior skin panel today to gain access
to the splice point for the trailer wiring to the tongue pigtail, so
wiring it to match current standards will be easy.
So, I understand correctly, old 6Volt cars had separate turn and stop
circuits? That's how the trailer is wired (original).
Thanks,
RJ
> You do not mention a tail light in your Bargman #9,
> Typically, the smaller (dimmer) filament on a dual filament
> bulb is the tail light and the larger (brighter) filament is
> the stop and turn signal light. Often the brake switch is
> wired through the turn signal. If the turn signal is
> disengaged, the brake light switch lights up the larger
> (brighter) filament as the stop light independent of the
> tail light. If the brake light is on when you engage the
> turn signal, the turn signal switch and blinker periodically
> turn the brake light (large filament) off, thus causing it
> to blink when the brakes are applied.
>
> There are other variations of turn signal and wiring
> schemes to help confuse things.
>
> What are you doing for tail lights on your 57 FC? I
> would think they would be the small (dimmer) filament in the
> Bargman #9.
>
> Fred Coldwell
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:42:14 -0400
From: "Eric and Linda Evans" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Polyethyline sheets
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C252B0.74868590
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Has anyone ever tried to build your own tanks out of sheets of poly? If =
so, where can I get the poly, at least closer to Jacksonville, Florida. =
Eric
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C252B0.74868590
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2719.2200" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone ever tried to build your own =
tanks out=20
of sheets of poly? If so, where can I get the poly, at least =
closer to=20
Jacksonville, Florida. Eric</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0009_01C252B0.74868590--
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:43:20 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheell balencing
Hi Andy,
I went to your tech messages about wheel balancing and checking torsion
bars. Finally got in a position to observe the angle of all four torsion
bars and they definitely have an upward angle from level, like 10 degrees
or so. Not much weight in the trailer without personal gear or fluids on
board. Sure seems like I need a new set of axles. Can you tell me the cost
of the axles and the cost to drop ship to my residence in Scottsburg, VA
23459.
I'm making an assumption that the axle is locked in position by the
retension bolts so alignment should be fixed with a new axle. There was
mention of increasing the weight of the axle as compared to the original
when a new one is installed? I believe the '74 Argosy weight is 5800
pounds, 3320 without options.
My assumption is that the axles come with everything out to the backing
plate, including the axles, etc.?
Appreciate any help you can provide,
'74 Argosy, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 18:55:56 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Polyethyline sheets
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C252B2.5E8DC1C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Eric, my guess is you would do better with fiberglass construction. =
Welding plastics requires a special hot air gun and some polyethylene =
has to be friction welded.=20
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Eric and Linda Evans=20
To: Multiple recipients of VACList=20
Sent: Monday, September 02, 2002 18:42
Subject: [VAC] Polyethyline sheets
Has anyone ever tried to build your own tanks out of sheets of poly? =
If so, where can I get the poly, at least closer to Jacksonville, =
Florida. Eric
------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C252B2.5E8DC1C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Eric, my guess is you would do better =
with=20
fiberglass construction. Welding plastics requires a special hot air gun =
and=20
some polyethylene has to be friction welded. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Jim Greene</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>' 68 Tradewind</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A [EMAIL PROTECTED] href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Eric and =
Linda=20
Evans</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]=20
href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>Multiple recipients of =
VACList</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, September 02, =
2002=20
18:42</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] Polyethyline =
sheets</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Has anyone ever tried to build your =
own tanks out=20
of sheets of poly? If so, where can I get the poly, at least =
closer to=20
Jacksonville, Florida. =
Eric</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_007D_01C252B2.5E8DC1C0--
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 16:12:39 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: electrical mystery
I envy you going to Burning Man. I was there a couple of years ago. Why
not just run your pullers engine to give a charge to the battery. It worked
for me.
If all else fails, ask one of the big Tesla Guns to send a jolt across your
battery. That'll charge it!
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
Subject: [VAC] electrical mystery
> Hi Wise Ones:
>
> Me and the 67' Globetrotter just got back from a full week at the Burning
> Man festival in Nevada's Black Rock desert and ran into an electrical
> problem:
>
> After the batter finally died from running the interior lights and water
> pump, i tried recharging it via a gas powered generator using an adaptor
for
> the shore power plug.
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Mon, 02 Sep 2002 17:36:21 -0600
From: "Fred Coldwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 1950's taillight wiring
RJ:
Some cars and trucks in the 1950's did not have turn
signals installed at the factory. They were an option and
the people who did not order them used hand signals when
turning. When a separate turn signal switch was later
added to such a vehicle, the turn signal lights had their
own circuit and a separate lamp socket. If your trailer was
ordered for such a tow vehicle (or turn signals were added
to the tow vehicle when the trailer was purchased), then it
would have had separate circuits for stop, turn and tail
lights so it could be wired to the car.
I could not pull up your image of the tail lamp, but does
it have two light sockets inside the housing, one single
base socket for the tail lamp bulb and a double base socket
for the stop light and turn signal? I have a pair of rear
lights off an old truck from that era that are made that
way, two lamp sockets inside the housing, one single base
and one double base. Pretty funky old tech. :)
Fred C.
Fred C.
>Webmaster wrote:
> So, I understand correctly, old 6Volt cars had separate turn and stop
> circuits? That's how the trailer is wired (original).
>
> Thanks,
> RJ
>
>
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #413
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