[lace] Teachers
Dear Arachnids I have also heard of teachers who show a technique quickly and say they cannot do it slowly. We learn lacemaking with the left side of the brain that works with speech and this transfers to the right side that does not. (Try explaining how to ride a bike so that the person learning can do it immediately, there is something you cannot put into words. The right side works like a computer loop, so once you stop the sequence you cannot continue from that point, you have to go back to the beginning. (Make a bow and, without thinking about it beforehand have someone stop you in the middle, then try to carry on). Also you cannot talk why you are using the right side of the brain. (Again, try it tying a bow and giving a running commentary. The answer is for the teacher to go to her book and learn to do the sequence as several separate stages, with the words that go with them. Another way out is to show the sequence and watch yourself doing it, then follow with the commentary. Incidentally using the right side of the brain is euphoric - no wonder we enjoy it. For more information about this subject read 'Drawing in the right side of the brain', Betty Edwards. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] designing/making lace
that my first few designs are real clunkers, duds, yuk. But I don't let myself be stopped by these failures. I just keep slogging away at it until, eventually, I get good at it. I don't want anybody else to be intimidated or think there is some kind of magic that people are born with. Lorelei My sentiments exactly! I once had a student who said to me in class one day Why doesn't my lace look like yours? She was one of those students who never even looked at her lace never mind worked it, between classes. What does one say without being unkind so I thought for a moment, and knowing that she played a musical instrument I asked How often to you practise your ...? Oh, every day she indignantly replied. I said no more. The famous golfer Gary Player was overheard saying to someone, when he hit a brilliant shot and called him 'lucky', The harder I practise, the luckier I get. We were all complete beginners once and none of us were born with the skills we have acquired over several decades. Catherine Barley Henley-on-Thames UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Teachers
This reminds me of a student internship I once had. I was a dorm counselor for blind, developmentally disabled young adults. One of my tasks was to teach them to tie their shoes. What a challenge! No visual aids, obviously, some of them did not have the concepts of left and right clear, and their attention spans were limited. I didn't teach anyone to make a bow, but a few did learn to do the left over right, tuck under and pull. Sr. Claire Edith On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 09:31, Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.netwrote: Dear Arachnids I have also heard of teachers who show a technique quickly and say they cannot do it slowly. We learn lacemaking with the left side of the brain that works with speech and this transfers to the right side that does not. (Try explaining how to ride a bike so that the person learning can do it immediately, there is something you cannot put into words. The right side works like a computer loop, so once you stop the sequence you cannot continue from that point, you have to go back to the beginning. (Make a bow and, without thinking about it beforehand have someone stop you in the middle, then try to carry on). Also you cannot talk why you are using the right side of the brain. (Again, try it tying a bow and giving a running commentary. The answer is for the teacher to go to her book and learn to do the sequence as several separate stages, with the words that go with them. Another way out is to show the sequence and watch yourself doing it, then follow with the commentary. Incidentally using the right side of the brain is euphoric - no wonder we enjoy it. For more information about this subject read 'Drawing in the right side of the brain', Betty Edwards. Happy lacemaking Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Old bobbins ... pewter
Certainly David is correct about what pewter will last. The better the pewter the shorter it will last if not kept correctly. I will have to research the catching degradation from and poor pewter bobbin. As it stands, I do not see how a poor pewter can infect an intact pewter. My chemistry was never very good at the best of times! :) I will have to think who to ask abut this. - Original Message - From: Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net To: Brian Lemin br...@exemail.com.au Cc: lace@arachne.com Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 2:11 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Old bobbins ... pewter Since writing to you about this, I remembered that the 'warning' I had in my head came from David Springett who said that rotten pewter was pewter which had too much tin in it, and that a bad bobbin could damage a good one. Clay Brian Lemin wrote: Although pewter degradation is often talked of in Human terms, I am pretty sure it is not catching! It is a chemical process that starts when the pewter gets to certain temperature (I wrote an article about it many years ago but I have forgotten the details!... old age!) I do remember the story that says that Napoleons army uniforms had pewter buttons and when the went to Russia in the freezing conditions there, the buttons disintegrated. - Original Message - From: Clay Blackwell clayblackw...@comcast.net To: Brian Lemin br...@exemail.com.au Cc: lace@arachne.com Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [lace] Old bobbins Brian, I've got the warning in my head that if we have a rotten pewter bobbin, we should always keep it separate from any other pewter bobbins as they can contaminate the good pewter. Thoughts? Clay Brian Lemin wrote: The one warning that I would make is regarding bobbins that have pewter in them. They must not be kept in any place where they might get very cold. If they do this will accelerate the process of pewter degradation. For other bobbins, keep out of direct sunlight. Avoid damp Even temperature - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3991 (20090407) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 3994 (20090407) __ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Lee Daly article
After seeing Alice's newpaper article of a few years ago, I thought you might like to see the article about me and my laces done for a new local website. I felt like I had been written up by Victoria magazine! The slide show of my lace is very nice. Unfortunately, Vicki did not identify the Halas lace and the Point de Gaze lappet that are Hungarian made and antique, respectively. The rest is my work although not originals. Enjoy! www.athomeinsussexcounty.com. Exquisite Lee! Clearly someone who has put in many, many hours of 'practise'! Lovely to see some needlelace and did I recognise two framed pieces of needlace there? Catherine Barley - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Old bobbins - More about pewter
Looking on Google to try and resolve this discussion, and to start with I couldn't find any mention of pewter and cold. First I looked at the various types of pewter and found that:- Going back to the 15th century, by then it appears that by then there were three 'recipes' of pewter regulated by the Guilds. The first type, known as fine metal was used for flatware. It consisted of tin with as much copper as it could absorb, which is about 1%. The second type, known as trifling metal or trifle, was used for holloware. It is made up of fine metal with approximately 4% lead. The last type of pewter, known as lay or ley metal, was used for items that weren't in contact with food or drink. It consisted of tin with 15% lead. And also:- Pewter is an alloy composed primarily of tin with varying quantities of hardening agents such as antimony, bismuth, copper and lead. It was used in the ancient world by the Egyptians, Romans and other civilisations and came into extensive use in Europe in mediaeval times. Tin was alloyed with copper and bismuth and the resulting metal, although now much harder than pure tin, still possessed a low enough melting point to make it easy for casting. Later, the ordinances of The Worshipful Company of Pewterers laid down the composition of the pewter alloy, originally in two grades of fine and lay metal. Fine was used for sadware â plates, chargers, etc. â and for spoons and ecclesiastical flagons whilst lay metal was used for hollow-ware â pots and measures. Lay metal contained a higher proportion of lead which was used as a low cost bulking agent and help durability. Oxidation was harder to find out about as it is mostly the term used to describe the deliberate (or eventual by time) dark finish used as a patination on some pewter. However I did find a reference to:- Oxidation on pewter varies according the composition of the alloy and even this composition can vary on individual pieces. Serious oxidation can eat right through the metal and eventually create holes,. And finally:_ Although buying pewter so dull and tarnished that its complexion is similar to that of a dirty blackboard usually has a happy outcome, one should be wary of pieces that show signs of serious corrosion. This could be the result of being stored in a place where it was damp, such as a cellar or a shed with a leaking roof, or, if a plate, being used under a potted plant. Such corrosion can be so extensive that even after skilled treatment with an acid bath or by buffing, the surface is badly pitted. There are likely to be fine pinholes, too where the corrosion has gone through the metal. I now did a search for pewter and corrosion (the magic word) and struck gold:- Pewter should be kept in clean and not too humid surroundings. In a high relative humidity the oxide film grows thicker and the corrosion accelerates even more when dust settles on the surface. Dust contains corrosive salts, which keep the surface humidity high. The thick oxide layers can be seen on tin coffin plates from damp and dusty crypts and old chapels. The superficial tin oxide, which bears the inscription, can then easily flake off in thick layers. Archaeological items of tin can be totally converted to oxides. From archaeological marine sites it has been noted (2) that pewter containing some proportion of lead can survive under certain conditions. A special form of corrosion on the insides of basins and ewers for baptising is caused by deposited calcium carbonate (limestone). If kept damp the carbonate coated tin surface will corrode. There is another deterioration phenomenon that should occur in pure metallic tin, and in tin with a limited amount of lead, at temperatures below 13°C. The metallic tin should change to a grey crystalline powder. This allotropic structure change is normally referred to as tin pest and is described by Hedges (Hedges, E.S.: Tin and Its Alloys, Edward Arnold publishers Ltd, London, 1960, pp 16-37, 50-72.). Proving the phenomena by analysis is however difficult, because mostly tin oxide is detected. Deterioration seems to start locally in spots or as lines where there is stress in the metal from bending or pressure. The attack is first seen as small volcano shaped craters opening on the metal surface. This is because the change results in expansion. The produced powder drops out of the craters, leaving holes. The preservation of tin ware starts by keeping it in a clean, dry, indoor climate above 13°C. Handle it with cotton gloves. As our house it often below 13°C at night, and I don't intend to wear gloves to make lace then my bobbins will have to take their chance. I will do my best to keep them dry VBG Regarding the infectious nature of corrosion, I suppose it is possible that if the corrosion was caused by salts, and the affected piece touches and passes them to another, then that piece could also corrode. Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com
RE: [lace] Teaching..eml
I have been reading these stories about teachers and students and now designing! How do you even begin to design? Or is this something you think about when you have more experience? I have a good teacher/class but unfortunately these are only evening classes so in the summer I have nothing. She is a very good teacher with lots of patience (which is just as well for me) and the students are in the main well behaved. They have all been coming to this class for years and a few do not need any help at all. (I have never heard any of them talk about designing though.) If the teacher is busy with a newbie a couple of them will go and help out someone else if needed. When hearing about some of your stories I am very lucky with my class. Nancy Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 12:01:00 +0100 From: alan.d.br...@tesco.net To: lace@arachne.com Subject: [lace] Teaching..eml I used to try and encourage students to work out a pricking from a lace photograph, simple torchon to start with and then progress further when they had acquired more experience and design something themselves. When I started lace classes in 1976, Tordis Berndt had Maidment and the two Swedish books for us to use. The latter had photos, thread sizes and bobbin numbers, *but* no prickings! Having to make your own pricking from the photos, I feel made you learn more about how threads moved than just working a piece with full instructions. When the Book of Stitches arrived then the possiblities of different fillings etc. opened up new avenues. Sometimes, ideas for a change will occur when working a pattern, particularly in free lace designs i.e. to change a stitch, add colour etc. The confidence to do this should come with experience and a desire to spread one's wings and a willingness to break all the 'do-nots' that were there at the time of the lace revival in the '70s. Without this The Westhope Group,the 98 group, the use of copper wire, coloured threads in traditionally white only patterns , etc.could not have come about. Personally I prefer to use graph paper for geometrical laces as I can envisage the movement of the threads better. Not being able to draw I will trace a shape I like, mix and match with other shapes and then think about the stitches which will give me the effect I'm looking for. As others have said we work and teach as individuals and the reward is when a student achieves the goals they have set themselves. Sheila in Sawbo' where it is sunny but a cool wind, hoping it will be dry in the Peak District for Easter - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com _ Share your photos with Windows Live Photos Free. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Old bobbins - More about pewter
I have found a copy of my original article about pewter and degradation. I find that it lacks the detail of Jacqui's research. Great stuff... thank you. I do remember doing quite a lot of research and and members of Arachne contributed greatly to the discussion. I think I just summarized our discussion and emphasized the key issues. Here is the URL: http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/webdocs/lb_pwtr.pdf - Original Message - From: laceandb...@aol.com To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 1:10 AM Subject: [lace] Old bobbins - More about pewter Looking on Google to try and resolve this discussion, and to start with I couldn't find any mention of pewter and cold. First I looked at the various types of pewter and found that:- Going back to the 15th century, by then it appears that by then there were three 'recipes' of pewter regulated by the Guilds. The first type, known as fine metal was used for flatware. It consisted of tin with as much copper as it could absorb, which is about 1%. The second type, known as trifling metal or trifle, was used for holloware. It is made up of fine metal with approximately 4% lead. The last type of pewter, known as lay or ley metal, was used for items that weren't in contact with food or drink. It consisted of tin with 15% lead. And also:- Pewter is an alloy composed primarily of tin with varying quantities of hardening agents such as antimony, bismuth, copper and lead. It was used in the ancient world by the Egyptians, Romans and other civilisations and came into extensive use in Europe in mediaeval times. Tin was alloyed with copper and bismuth and the resulting metal, although now much harder than pure tin, still possessed a low enough melting point to make it easy for casting. Later, the ordinances of The Worshipful Company of Pewterers laid down the composition of the pewter alloy, originally in two grades of fine and lay metal. Fine was used for sadware â? plates, chargers, etc. â? and for spoons and ecclesiastical flagons whilst lay metal was used for hollow-ware â? pots and measures. Lay metal contained a higher proportion of lead which was used as a low cost bulking agent and help durability. Oxidation was harder to find out about as it is mostly the term used to describe the deliberate (or eventual by time) dark finish used as a patination on some pewter. However I did find a reference to:- Oxidation on pewter varies according the composition of the alloy and even this composition can vary on individual pieces. Serious oxidation can eat right through the metal and eventually create holes,. And finally:_ Although buying pewter so dull and tarnished that its complexion is similar to that of a dirty blackboard usually has a happy outcome, one should be wary of pieces that show signs of serious corrosion. This could be the result of being stored in a place where it was damp, such as a cellar or a shed with a leaking roof, or, if a plate, being used under a potted plant. Such corrosion can be so extensive that even after skilled treatment with an acid bath or by buffing, the surface is badly pitted. There are likely to be fine pinholes, too where the corrosion has gone through the metal. I now did a search for pewter and corrosion (the magic word) and struck gold:- Pewter should be kept in clean and not too humid surroundings. In a high relative humidity the oxide film grows thicker and the corrosion accelerates even more when dust settles on the surface. Dust contains corrosive salts, which keep the surface humidity high. The thick oxide layers can be seen on tin coffin plates from damp and dusty crypts and old chapels. The superficial tin oxide, which bears the inscription, can then easily flake off in thick layers. Archaeological items of tin can be totally converted to oxides. From archaeological marine sites it has been noted (2) that pewter containing some proportion of lead can survive under certain conditions. A special form of corrosion on the insides of basins and ewers for baptising is caused by deposited calcium carbonate (limestone). If kept damp the carbonate coated tin surface will corrode. There is another deterioration phenomenon that should occur in pure metallic tin, and in tin with a limited amount of lead, at temperatures below 13°C. The metallic tin should change to a grey crystalline powder. This allotropic structure change is normally referred to as tin pest and is described by Hedges (Hedges, E.S.: Tin and Its Alloys, Edward Arnold publishers Ltd, London, 1960, pp 16-37, 50-72.). Proving the phenomena by analysis is however difficult, because mostly tin oxide is detected. Deterioration seems to start locally in spots or as lines where there is stress in the metal from bending or pressure. The attack is first seen as small volcano shaped craters opening on the metal surface. This is because the change results in expansion. The
Fw: [lace] Lee Daly article
Lovely, and I liked the way she wrote it. Real appreciation for the work. Sue T, Dorset UK After seeing Alice's newpaper article of a few years ago, I thought you might like to see the article about me and my laces done for a new local website. I felt like I had been written up by Victoria magazine! The slide show of my lace is very nice. Unfortunately, Vicki did not identify the Halas lace and the Point de Gaze lappet that are Hungarian made and antique, respectively. The rest is my work although not originals. Enjoy! www.athomeinsussexcounty.com. Exquisite Lee! Clearly someone who has put in many, many hours of 'practise'! Lovely to see some needlelace and did I recognise two framed pieces of needlace there? Catherine Barley - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Teaching..eml- designing
In a message dated 4/8/2009 7:11:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, nancy.nichol...@hotmail.co.uk writes: I have been reading these stories about teachers and students and now designing! How do you even begin to design? This is a subject that I have been thinking about for some years, and no one would place me in a tier of design that is not amateur. My artistic talent is non-existent. In fact, my sense of spatial relations is so poor that I cannot even draw a floor plan of the house I live in. But that should be proof that designing is not something that requires a lot of visual talent, unless you want a spectacular result, of course. People who read the IOLI Bulletin can read the process that I used for the piece that was on the back cover. As a not particularly good designer, I would offer the following ideas. One of my first designs was a panda bear fan. I had my daughter draw the Panda, since she could draw, although only 7 years old, and I cannot. I made him in a narrow braid and filled him in with grounds I knew or could cadge from the book of grounds. Persons who are mathematically inclined use the lace design programs with great skill to design continuous type laces. I tend to use them to generate grids for the most frequent kinds of fillings. Then with a scissor, I cut the grid to fit in the area I want it to fit in and tape it in. In fact, frequently, I simply choose between the premade grids on _http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/design.htm_ (http://gwydir.demon.co.uk/jo/lace/design.htm) and print them with my computer on a card type paper from the computer supply store and fool around on them.This is a very easy way to design. While you work the piece, you will have a lot of time to think about how you could have made it more complicated. Then your next piece can be more complicated, and you can develop even more theories while you work that. Having taken free lace techniques such as Withof and Milanese allows you to draw a picture and make a piece of lace on it, once you understand the techniques. Jane Atkinson has taught and written a lot about modern design and her ideas are very inspiring. Taking a design class with her or others can be of great help. Now, I find myself in a phase where I get some materials and I fool around with them, often on the preprinted grid from the above lace site and see what interesting effects can be derived from the materials. For instance, when you combine different fibers and do different things with them, does something magical emerge? Then you have to figure out how to optimize that effect and try to make it into something. Although I have been known to be able to take a picture of a known lace from the museum, and, with the help of graph paper, draw it out. I tend to still do this by hand with tracing paper and graph paper, and counting the threads and stitiches in the original piece. I am somewhat intimidated by the idea of designing borders, etc., even with the software, possibly because I am not a specialist in most of these continuous laces. A true artist, of course, would be able to counter positive and negative space, and, using artistic design principles and color theory produce a much better product. I do keep coming up against the issue of whether in lace design, technical proficiency or artistic ability is more important. Historically, it seems that the designers often designed, and then the makers figured out how to make the piece, so both talents did not have to reside in the same person. Good luck, Devon **New Deals on Dell Netbooks â Now starting at $299 (A HREF=http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219939010x1201342897/aol?redir= http:%2F%2Fa d.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213771626%3B35379597%3Bw) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Drawing on Right Side of Brain - was:Teachers
Alex, My art teacher in high school taught from this book and I thoroughly enjoyed it. I love blind contour drawing. Now just wish I could do blind lacemaking. I might get a book read at the same time HAH. Thanks for mentioning that book. Brought back good memories. -- Mark, aka Tatman blog: http://tatmantats.wordpress.com/ email: tatmant...@gmail.com On 4/8/09 1:31 AM, Alex Stillwell alexstillw...@talktalk.net wrote: Incidentally using the right side of the brain is euphoric - no wonder we enjoy it. For more information about this subject read 'Drawing in the right side of the brain', Betty Edwards. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] designing/making lace
The harder I practice, the luckier I get... EXCELLENT! Thanks for that one! I also like the analogy with the violin. You don't need to say more. Clay Catherine Barley wrote: that my first few designs are real clunkers, duds, yuk. But I don't let myself be stopped by these failures. I just keep slogging away at it until, eventually, I get good at it. I don't want anybody else to be intimidated or think there is some kind of magic that people are born with. Lorelei My sentiments exactly! I once had a student who said to me in class one day Why doesn't my lace look like yours? She was one of those students who never even looked at her lace never mind worked it, between classes. What does one say without being unkind so I thought for a moment, and knowing that she played a musical instrument I asked How often to you practise your ...? Oh, every day she indignantly replied. I said no more. The famous golfer Gary Player was overheard saying to someone, when he hit a brilliant shot and called him 'lucky', The harder I practise, the luckier I get. We were all complete beginners once and none of us were born with the skills we have acquired over several decades. Catherine Barley Henley-on-Thames UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Teachers
Dear Arachnids My answer to students who look at my lace and say they cannot do as well it 'When you have been making lace as long as I have, you will. I agree with Cathy Barley about designing. My first attempt was at a 2-day course on Macrame (before it became popular). At the end of the first day we were toled to go away and design something. What me? I thought. As a maths/science teacher I assumed that my ability to design was about as much as the top 1/4 inch of my little finger. I scoured the library and foun the only book on macrame in the Essex library service and proceeded to try to copy one of the pieces. The thread was the wrong thickness and much softer than the original and after fudging to try to imitate the original I came up with something looking so different you could not trace its parentage. Then I undersood what is meant by your own design; if you cannot recognise its origin it's yours. I have continued to practice designing and I can assure all lacemakers that it is a right side of the brain activity. The reasons you think you cannot design are 1. when you think about it you get no answer, 2 like riding a bike, you have to practice to make it develop, 3. it takes courage and determination to try something when you are not sure if you can do it and it may all be a waste of time. Just have a go, you will probably be surprised. Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Designing
Yes Sheila. Copying is a good way of getting started with designing. Start by copying a pattern, then draft a pattern from lace or a photograph, then try altering an existing pattern. It's a good progression and you can learn a lot from looking at how the different components of a pttern work together. Happy designing Alex - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Re: Drawing on Right Side of Brain - was:Teachers
Sherry meant for this to go to the lace list as well. Her email below. -- Mark, aka Tatman blog: http://tatmantats.wordpress.com/ email: tatmant...@gmail.com -- Forwarded Message From: Sherry celticdreamwe...@yahoo.com And since I am left handedI use the right side of my brain more than the lefthave you ever noticed how many of our past presidents were left handed. Being left handed myself I have a tendency to notice those things. Even President Obama is left handed. Does being left handed make it easier to catch on how to do lace and other things with my hands easier? What do you all think? Sherry celticdreamwe...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] misc.
Hello All! Snow--After last night's snow, we are now at 145 on the season, the 2nd snowiest in Erie, PA history. Using bobbins with Pewter--Is anyone concerned about the lead content potential contamination? Just think of how we work. Hands to bobbins, hands to push up glasses that have slipped, hands to scratch your nose, hands to grab a piece of chocolate. Just asking?? Lace Fence--Thank you so much for posting the links. WOW. Beautiful, functional, not your grandma's chain link fence. Susan, in Erie, where today's bright sun has melted last night's mini-blizzard, but authorities are still cleaning up all the crashes on I-90 I-79. - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] designing
Devon wrote: People who read the IOLI Bulletin can read the process that I used for the piece that was on the back cover. As a not particularly good designer, I would offer the following ideas. This was the first article I read when the Bulletin arrived on Monday. I know that Devon always writes amusing and interesting articles. Her simple piece of wire lace made a chic display for the gallery in Chelsea, N.Y. Did you put a high price on the piece if the pieces were for sale? I wonder if there is some way of welding the piece into a permanent knot. I also noticed that both ends looked good. How did you manage to hide the ending so well? Like Devon I have played with pieces of paper to determine a design. She used hers to tie the knot to gauge the length of lace she needed. I used paper for a series of napkin rings I have been designing, usually for the IOLI convention cd's that were given to charter guilds. I would cut out the shape and twist it around to see how and where I could join the ends so that they would interlock but could be stored flat. I go through lots of paper when I am in design mode, but we are always planting more trees in our yard. :-) Janice Janice Blair Crystal Lake, 50 miles northwest of Chicago, Illinois, USA www.jblace.com http://www.lacemakersofillinois.org - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] designing
In a message dated 4/8/2009 2:09:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jbl...@sbcglobal.net writes: Did you put a high price on the piece if the pieces were for sale? I put a price of $350 on it. I wasn't particularly interested in selling it because I thought I might enter it in the employee art show at the Museum, if we have one this year. On the other hand, if someone wanted to pay $350 for it, I figured I could make something else. I looked at some of the other pieces. Many were not for sale. The highest price that I saw was $950 for an art work composed of intricately manipulated fabric by an artist who sells her work and has written books about fabric manipulation. I wonder if there is some way of welding the piece into a permanent knot. This is somewhat hard, in that the wire is pretty flexible and I don't have metal working skills. Definitely a design flaw that should be considered in future efforts. However, part of its charm is that it can assume different positions. Another problem is that whenever you really attach it together, you lose the transparency and it begins to look like a muddle of wire. I also noticed that both ends looked good. How did you manage to hide the ending so well? I worked around the bottom with the silver wire making a picot, and ended in the hole one spot upward from the end point. Because it was wire, you could clip it rather close. Then, when I photographed it, I turned the side with the little wire ends away from the camera. The pieces are accepted entirely on the basis of the photograph, so making the photograph look good is the most important thing, although the piece could be rejected if it really didn't look like the photograph. That is one thing that I really learned from this. The photography is very important in entering art. If the piece is beautiful, but the photograph doesn't do it justice, it is a big problem. The piece is in silver and gold, and actually shines a great deal more in real life, than I think you can tell from the picture. But it was really very difficult to photograph. Devon **New Deals on Dell Netbooks â Now starting at $299 (A HREF=http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219939010x1201342897/aol?redir= http:%2F%2Fa d.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213771626%3B35379597%3Bw) - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Holiday
I won't be on line for the next 2 weeks , off climb hills(maybe) in The Peak District and then the Lace Guild Convention. Sheila - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] unsubscribe
unsubscribe lace alan.d.brown @tesco.net - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Roller
I have a couple of yards of lace edging to make and I don't have a roller pillow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the worked lace neat and tidy apart from just folding it over? My DH is a dab hand at woodwork so could make something if he had a picture or a diagram. Ann UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Roller
I use a smooth, circular piece of wood, with holes drilled at each end for hat pins (or equivalent ) to go through and pin it to the pillow. Wind the lace around the wood as it is completed. See: http://www.smplace.co.uk/sfr_cat.htm for a picture of the sort of thing I am talking about. They call it a lace roller, and it is under tools at the top of that page Sue - Original Message - From: ann.humphreys ann.humphr...@talktalk.net To: lace@arachne.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 3:28 PM Subject: [lace] Roller I have a couple of yards of lace edging to make and I don't have a roller pillow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the worked lace neat and tidy apart from just folding it over? My DH is a dab hand at woodwork so could make something if he had a picture or a diagram. Ann UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Roller
If your husband works with wood, here is a link to plans to build a little roller pillow/travel pillow: http://lace.lacefairy.com/Lace/PillowsBobbins/PuertoRicanPillow.html It didn't take him long to make it, and all I had to do was find some wool and cover the roller. I have enjoyed using it for edging, but it is a bit narrow and I can't use more than 20 pairs. I'm still a beginner, and I spend a lot of time untangling the bobbins. If your edging is too wide, it probably wouldn't work. Good Luck, Lenore in Michigan USA On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 4:28 PM, ann.humphreys ann.humphr...@talktalk.net wrote: I have a couple of yards of lace edging to make and I don't have a roller pillow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the worked lace neat and tidy apart from just folding it over? My DH is a dab hand at woodwork so could make something if he had a picture or a diagram. Ann UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Roller
Hi Ann, I have something that looks like a mini rolling pin that you wind the lace around. I bought it many years ago at a lace day but sorry I can't remember who it was from Hope this helps. Anne Nicholas Middx England - Original Message - I have a couple of yards of lace edging to make and I don't have a roller pillow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the worked lace neat and tidy apart from just folding it over? My DH is a dab hand at woodwork so could make something if he had a picture or a diagram. Ann UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] roller
How about an empty toilet paper/paper towel tube? The cardboard is light weight easy to pin to. I use them for the crocheted cording for Romanian point lace. Wonder if it would work for you as well? Susan, Erie, PA - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Roller
How about a wooden roller? Put some holes through at either end to put divider pins through and pin to your pillow. See: www.sixpennybobbins.co.uk/index.php?p=6 I am using one of these at teh moment for a long length of Beds. lace. Agnes Boddington - Elloughton UK ann.humphreys wrote: I have a couple of yards of lace edging to make and I don't have a roller pillow. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep the worked lace neat and tidy apart from just folding it over? My DH is a dab hand at woodwork so could make something if he had a picture or a diagram. Ann UK - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] Re: Drawing on Right Side of Brain - was:Teachers
As a leftie also, I will say that I find it fairly easy to follow written instructions (unless it involves housework) I like the message on Clay's sisters teeshirt too! For those of you who are not left handed I say this. Don't try to understand us, you'll never manage it. it's a left thing you know! Sue in EY From: Sherry celticdreamwe...@yahoo.com And since I am left handedI use the right side of my brain more than the lefthave you ever noticed how many of our past presidents were left handed. Being left handed myself I have a tendency to notice those things. Even President Obama is left handed. Does being left handed make it easier to catch on how to do lace and other things with my hands easier? What do you all think? Sherry celticdreamwe...@yahoo.com - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] threads for lace ed. 1 is now given away
Hi everyone, and especially those who applied for my old copy of Threads for Lace, edition 1. I have sent it now to the next owner, and I thank everyone for writing who expressed an interest in it. I'm sorry I don't have one for each of you! I know you would all have benefited. To anyone not yet familiar with this splendid reference, check out Brenda's site - http://paternoster.orpheusweb.co.uk/threads/threads.html -- Bev in Shirley BC, near Sooke on beautiful Vancouver Island, west coast of Canada - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Teaching Lace
Thank you all for your wonderful reflections regarding teaching lace. I just finished my first teaching of beginner lace using Gillian Dye's Beginning Bobbin Lace book. I had 7 students, including one with macular degeneration and one that had had 2 strokes. I discovered that some students are happy just learning the bookworm (lady with 2 strokes was very happy doing them and stopped coming when we moved on to the next bookmark); some are happy with just a plain cloth stitch bookworm without the extra spaces - twisted worker in the middle-(the gal with vision problems). These new students were very happy just taking their time with the projects and working at their own pace. I had thought we would get farther along in the book but with just 3 lessons, they got just so far and were happy staying there and getting comfortable with the basic stitches. We formed a weekly group and named ourselves The Laughing Lacers of Whidbey Island. So now I have some people to lace with, which I could not find before! Marilyn Jensen, Whidbey Island, WA where there is a grey whale feeding in our backyard. (the Puget Sound) PS Thanks for the answers to the question about stiffening lace! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
[lace] Old bobbins - More about pewter
That was very interesting about pewter. I have an old wooden bobbin with pewter spots, - that is no longer nice to use, as the pewter spots have expanded, and are very rough on the fingers, as well as snagging on other threads. I was told it was corroding pewter, which expands as it corrodes. In the old days one Always had a leopard bobbin( wood with pewter spots) on the pillow, to ward off arthritis. Regards from Liz in Melbourne, Oz. lizl...@bigpond.com -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 339 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
Re: [lace] misc.
I figure I'll be hit by a bus before I get brain damage or die from the lead in the pewter my bobbins contain! Happy Lacemaking, Betty Ann in Roanoke, Virginia USA who is back on line after a battlefield tout of Middle Tennessee. Apr 8, 2009 01:23:00 PM, hottl...@neo.rr.com wrote: (snip) Using bobbins with Pewter--Is anyone concerned about the lead content potential contamination? Just think of how we work. Hands to bobbins, hands to push up glasses that have slipped, hands to scratch your nose, hands to grab a piece of chocolate. Just asking?? - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
