[Elecraft] K3 serial 584 is now OK

2009-07-15 Thread Joe Malloy
In case anyone is wondering, my K3 is running tickety-boo now that the 
KIO3 board has been replaced (thanks to Gary Surrency for diagnosis and 
the rest of Elecraft service folks who got me the replacement board tout 
suite!).  And, uh, the 80-meter only decrease in sensitivity was most 
decidedly NOT condx or a failure of anything in the K3 box but a failure 
of the wetware which operated the box -- somehow, I know not how, I was 
using the non-existent RX ANT.  Ooops.

73,

Joe, W2RBA


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[Elecraft] K3: Unable to update firmware by RS-232 port

2009-07-05 Thread Joe Malloy
Hi, all, hope someone can help!  I have updated my K3 with just about 
all firmware that has come along since I put the rig together in March, 
2008 (ser no 584) and never had trouble -- until now.  The K3 Utility 
suddenly reported that no K3 communications are available.  I've done 
some of the updates (the RXA board, CW Rise time, KIO3 Remote Module, 
LINE OUT and Speaker amplifier) and have had the rig on the workbench a 
few time looking for an obvious error I have made.  To date, the error 
remains elusive.

Anyone have an idea of what I should look for?  TIA!

73,

Joe, W2RBA
w2rba(at)arrl(dot)net




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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Unable to update firmware by RS-232 port

2009-07-05 Thread Joe Malloy
Hi, Matt, I'm not using a USB hub, my system used to work with a 
straight cable from a com port to the K3 or with the Elecraft/Prolific 
USB to rs-232 cable but no go, no matter which of four port I have.  I 
also have checked for proper mating of the KIO3 but no go.  It still 
confounds me why it worked for over a year and then stopped -- on three 
different computers!

Thanks for your suggestions.  Any others?  :)

73,

Joe, W2RBA


Matt Zilmer wrote:
 Hi Joe,
 
 Did you make sure that it's opening the correct serial port?  If
 you're using a USB hub, sometimes the COMx port id moves around.  If
 this is the case, you'll have to sniff it out.
 
 If it's a REAL serial port, sorry.  No clues here on that.
 
 You can set the COMx port from the K3 Utility, using one of the tabs.
 
 Also, make sure the digital part of the KIO3 is plugged in and
 properly aligned to the connector.  Try another serial or USB cable
 too if you have them around.
 
 GL,
 matt W6NIA
 K3 #24
 
 On Sun, 05 Jul 2009 17:09:54 -0400, you wrote:
 
 Hi, all, hope someone can help!  I have updated my K3 with just about 
 all firmware that has come along since I put the rig together in March, 
 2008 (ser no 584) and never had trouble -- until now.  The K3 Utility 
 suddenly reported that no K3 communications are available.  I've done 
 some of the updates (the RXA board, CW Rise time, KIO3 Remote Module, 
 LINE OUT and Speaker amplifier) and have had the rig on the workbench a 
 few time looking for an obvious error I have made.  To date, the error 
 remains elusive.

 Anyone have an idea of what I should look for?  TIA!
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Re: [Elecraft] Knob shaft and pot issues

2008-05-05 Thread Joe Malloy
K3 #584 must have had the old audio pots which are fantastic -- they 
have a solid feel to them and coupled with the knobs (which sorta add to 
the old-timey flavor) it reminds me of knobs on my Drake 2B or an old 
Hallicrafters radio!


Joe, W2RBA


KM5Q wrote:
My #764 wasn't missing anything. I'm left with an extra pile of spare 
hardware, so I could have dropped a tiny screw and been OK.
My dual-pots have only slight play. They turn smoothly. I think they 
switched vendor and should watch for this!


My rig worked fine at first power-up.

Windy KM5Q



Bob K9PAG wrote:
Mon, 05 May 2008 10:10:27 -0700

My kit K3 #818 came with the shafts on the four small dual function 
knobs

lose and the associated pots feeling like they were gritty when turned.
Sure not as smooth and nice as my ICOM 746!  Wonder how many #800 units
experienced this problem or is it just me?   The lose shafts and gritty
feeling when turned reminds me of cheap volume controls on a Chinese 
radio.
And how many have experienced a DOA KSYN3 (synthesizer) board in your 
kit?
In addition, how many of you have experienced missing hardware in 
your kit

making it difficult to complete?


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Re: [Elecraft] a story that will have a happy ending, soon (slightlyOT)

2006-01-11 Thread Joe Malloy

w2agn wrote:


Dan Barker wrote:

How come this question is on the Elecraft list? Shouldn't it be on 
the QRP-L

list?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

ps: Admittedly, I'm curious about the answer toog.

snipHow come the moderator on QRP-L says that NO mention of eBay is
permitted, because the owner of QSL.NET/QTH.NET forbids it
/snip
 

For one thing, I am not a member of QRP-L any longer, and for another, 
I was curious if this list was subjected to the same constraints.



But why ask the question in public?  Asking the original poster or the 
moderator of QRP-L in email would have been a less tendentious way of 
getting your answer, it seems to me.


73,

Joe, W2RBA




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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Joe Malloy

Darwin, Keith wrote:


Worst of all was the time I came in from playing outside and found my 25
watt soldering iron on my bed.  The iron was on and the bedspread was
burned / melted under the iron.  I had apparently left it plugged in
when I went outside hours earlier.



Soldering irons! That reminds me of another goof-up: I was working as a 
radio technician for the city of Binghamton, NY, and was, of course, 
quite used (ha!) to soldering.  One day, while repairing some old boat 
anchor of a VHF public works radio I suddenly smelled and odd smell, it 
almost (!) smelled like human fleshwell, it *was* flesh -- mine: I 
had put my left hand down on top of the plugged-in iron (some Weller 
unit) and apparently missed any nerve endings that might have reacted to 
the heat.  I bear the scar of a Weller tip and barrel to this day -- and 
I've never done that again.


Ah, the good ole days!

73,

Joe, W2RBA




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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid, stupid, stupid - OT

2006-01-03 Thread Joe Malloy

EricJ wrote:


At K2USA we had a BC-610 in the main studio (1964). It stood a little over
desk high and was truly the Mother of all Boatanchors. To tune it, you had
to lift a small hatch in the top surface and rotate a link coupling. But, of
course, you had to switch off the B+ first. If you forgot to do that, there
was an interlock on the small hatch to cut the B+.

We had two military operators (not hams) who handled the MARS traffic for us
so we could ham. Somebody had discovered that the interlock was not working
earlier in the day. I taped down the hatch, taped a note over that so the
ops would have to remove the note to open the hatch, told the two ops to be
absolutely sure they shut off the B+ before tuning the TX and left for home.



Ah, yes, the B+ supply!  Another stupid event I recall was when I was 
working on my Galaxy V MkII transceiver -- the transmitter section -- 
and didn't realize the B+ (ca 600 volts) was *always* switched on when 
the thing was even only receiving.  I brushed against the loading 
capacitor (variable, natch) and, well, let's just say the scars on my 
palm are still visible.


I really like the 12 volt solid state stuff.  Oh, and by the way -- it 
was right after the aforementioned experience that I developed an 
interest in QRP (1975)!


73,

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] stupid question - likely ot

2006-01-02 Thread Joe Malloy
Ah, yes, what was the stupidest thing I ever did as a 
ham...lessee...there's so much to choose from.  I'll start with the time 
when I built my first transmitter (a Lafayette KT-390 Starflite) from 
a kit and accidentally swapped the two different three prong terminal 
strips--one of which had a grounded center lug and the other of which 
didn't.  When I fired 'er up, I was very pleased to note that it seemed 
to work fine but there seemed to be an oddity that I eventually (after 
many shocking experiences!) traced to the fact that it depended whether 
you put the two-prong AC line cord in one way or t'other. The engineer 
in me was careful (ha!) to usually plug it in the correct way but I 
wondered why they hadn't warned me about that in the manual...Well, come 
to find out, it *does* make a difference which type of three-pronged 
terminal strip goes where and that I had (you guessed it!) put the one 
that had the center lug grounded in the *AC  input*. 

That's just the first one...then there was the time I got quite the 
shock from the B+ line on my college radio transmitter (I was the 
chief engineer -- we were great at using grandiose sounding titles 
just because they did so in the real radio -- oh, did I tell you I had 
earned a first class FCC radiotelephone license by then?)  But I digress...


They say that confession is good for the soul...

Yours in electronics experience,

Joe, W2RBA


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Re: [Elecraft] My error in cutting the K1BKLTKIT LED Backlights

2005-09-11 Thread Joe Malloy

Steve Hostetler wrote:

You can cut the LEDs using a very fine tooth straight-back saw you can 
buy for a few bucks at your local hobby shop.  They cut easily and 
cleanly.  The back light is an elegant and much appreciated addition 
to the K1.


steve, kx7r

A Dremel with a cutting disk makes short work of it.  The light works 
great.


 


Or, if you're lazy like me, the backlight as supplied fits just nicely 
when you place the right hand side against the leads of the capacitor 
(C4?) on the board.   Works great and looks great too!


72,

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] S/N 5000

2005-05-26 Thread Joe Malloy

Steven Pituch wrote:

Hi Eric,
Ah, but I love the retro look of all those knobby screws.  Truly a work 
of art.


Regards,
Steve, W2MY

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  ;o)

EricJ wrote:


I'm withholding my MOMA nomination until the K2 has countersunk cabinet
screws like the more beautiful K1.


You know, those screws almost kept me from getting a K2 since I equated 
sticking-out screws with somebody's homebrew work.  Now, as an aside, 
I didn't doubt the performance of the K2, I know screws aren't going to 
affect how it performs, but it just seemed sorta messy.


Well, I figured, darn the screws and full speed ahead!  As a result, I 
have no. 01299 modified (but for the KPA-100) to the hilt and absolutely 
*love* the way it performs.  Just shows to go ya, you shouldn't judge a 
book by its cover.  Besides, the screws sticking out like that, well, it 
sorta grows on you!


73,

Joe, W2RBA\
K2 no. 01299
K1 no. 01005
KX1 no 0020



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 S/n 01432 Construction Update..

2005-04-12 Thread Joe Malloy

Andy GM0NWI wrote:


Guy's..

Just to let everyone who WILL see my e-mail on the reflector soon from 
this morning...


To IGNORE...the plea for help...!  Time has passed today, since 
posting that e-mail to the reflector...
the day is nearing closure...  ONCE AGAIN..!  My well respected 
.Elecraft K2 Elmer ...John Ross GM1BSG..

saved the day...!

On inspection of the rig (...a little closer than I had actually done 
while constructing her early this morning...) it was
noticed, ...found... corrected...  that I had INDEED...not mated the 
connector pins from one of the boards to the

connector on the RF Board quite correctly...!!

sigh..! blinks in disbelief..!  Yes..! indeed...the whole episode 
of panic..was for no reason whatsoever... and
this was the reason as to my baby not turning on and lighting up 
this morning..!!


I can now say WITH convictions...! that I feel rather stupid...and 
small for overseasing this foresight..! 



Hey, Andy, you don't have to feel stupid nor small -- we're not 
electronics guys (most of us) and we all make pretty basic errors at 
time.  In my case, the K2 was fine, just had to send it to Gary for a 
bit of toroid swapping -- yup, I had switched two types of cores!


Congratulations of getting your K2 going -- I envy you the assembly 
experience.


73,

Joe, W2RBA
K2 #01299
K1 #01005
KX1 #0020



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Re: [Elecraft] Fast-play CW messages

2005-04-01 Thread Joe Malloy

Lloyd Lachow wrote:


 Oooohhh, I'm on the middle of the right-hand side of
p.59 on K2 #4442...it's getting closer...

 Meanwhile, I was trying to use the fast-play
function on a borrowed K2. I programmed PF1 for FPon.
Then, it says to use the FPLY menu entry to select a
switch group. I'm not finding that entry...is this a
firmware revision issue? Would it have FPon, but not
FPLY???
 



LLoyd, the keys/numbers are adjustable on the SEC menu which is reached 
by tapping DISPLAY and scrolling to the appropriate spot (FPLY); the 
parameters are available by turning the vfo knob or up/down keys.  Good 
luck!


Joe, W2RBA
K2 #01299



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #4661 Takes It's First Breath!

2005-03-12 Thread Joe Malloy

MikeH wrote:


Hello Fellow Elecraft Enthusiasts,

Last night the final assembly on K2 #4661 was completed. This morning 
I made my first contacts on using 2W, 5W, and 10W with CW.


It's great to have one of these sitting in my shack. I've wanted to 
build one of these rigs for a few years. I admit that I was nervous at 
every test stage, but everything ultimately tested out fine, and so 
far the rig is working great. It took 2 months, during which I spent a 
total of 100 hours building (don't laugh; I may not be fast, but at 
least I'm slow).


Thanks to all those who responded to my newbie questions. You guys are 
a great resource, and part of what make this rig fun to build.


Thanks to Gary at Elecraft for finding the operator error that solved 
the VCO problem. And thanks to Elecraft in general for offering up 
great products and service, and being responsive to customers. I think 
you have an awesome company. Please stay that way! It would be a shame 
if such a great company for the ham radio community lost sight of what 
makes it great.


I'll  be hanging out on the CW QRP freqs of 40M and 20M this weekend. 
I hope to hear some of you on the air. I understand there is an 
Elecraft net, so I'll be looking for a sked for that as well.


Congratulations, Mike, but now you have a problem.  If you have been 
bitten by the Elecraft Bug you'll start thinking of a K1 or a KX1 and 
all the options that pertain thereto -- and then XG1, dummy load, etc.  
Soon you'll have nothing more to build.  It's a sad situation, I tell you!


May you receive many years of pleasure using your K2 -- I know I do (I 
still marvel at it and that it works at all (after all, *I* did the 
soldering!)).


73,

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Swtiching Band Boards

2005-03-10 Thread Joe Malloy

ROBERT PHILLIPS wrote:
The Elecraft  Web site indicates its a simple operation to switch from 
the 2 band to 4 band boards, to give you all 6 bands.


How many people really do this ?

I just bought a used K1 and it has a 4 band installed and a extra 2 band 
board, it sure doesn't look that easy, mine has the antenna tuner too.


Bob, I've got a K1 with a 4 band board (40, 30, 20 and 15 meters) and a 
2 band board with a slight mod to put it on 160 meters as well as 80 m. 
 It really doesn't take all that long to change the two boards (and I 
have the antenna tuner as well) and it's pretty obvious which one should 
be in given the time of day.  With practice, it's pretty easy to do -- 
give it some tries!


72,

Joe, W2RBA
K1 #1005
K2 #1299
KX1 #0020


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[Elecraft] Tencraft!

2005-02-22 Thread Joe Malloy
I don't know whether or not this has been posted before (certainly I 
have not seen it here) but on the Ten-Tec reflector this message just 
came through:


***
Is that Yaecomwood as opposed to Tencraft??  :)

Ron
Wb1hga


Peg writes:
 .. Now he is dreaming of an Omni VI+ someday, instead of a Yaecomwood.


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*** 

Elecraft has *really* made it!  (Of course, those of us reading this 
knew that already.)


73,

Joe, W2RBA
K2 #1299
K1 #1005
KX1 #0020

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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for some help from an Elcraft builder in Massachusetts area.

2005-02-22 Thread Joe Malloy

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello to everyone on the Elecraft Reflector. I subscribed to the Reflector 
alittle over a week ago and have really enjoyed all the posts. It is good to 
know that there are alot of really talented people out there who will be able to 
help me if and when I get in trouble building the K2. I will be ordering my K2 
in the next couple of days. I would be interested to know if there is someone 
in the Massachusetts area that has a K2 that could offer some help. Boy some 
of the problems I have been seeing are making me get second thoughts.


 Steve Terry

   W1KV
 

Hi, Steve, good to hear you're contemplating a K2.  You shouldn't worry 
about anything -- if *I* can assemble a K2 (and and K1 and a KX1!) with 
success, *you* will be able to do the same.  It's not for naught that 
Elecraft's stance is: they won't let anyone fail.  Don't worry -- and 
enjoy the experience.


73,

Joe, W2RBA




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[Elecraft] Re: KX160 rig 160 QRP

2005-02-17 Thread Joe Malloy

Paul - W8KC wrote:

It's funny to read about the K1 on 160M.

Last week, I emailed Wayne and asked if a KX160 (160M/80M version of the
KX1) was even possible.

He said it was doable, even the autotuner (!) but the market would be too
limited to make the actual product.

My money is ready.  I wonder how many orders they would really need to do
it?

73 =paul= w8kc


I'd like one, but then again I've already got an investment and I doubt 
the xyl would like me to have 2 of 'em!  If only that option had been 
available prior to purchase...


73,

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 160 meters

2005-02-16 Thread Joe Malloy

Sandy wrote:


Yes!  Just did a board for mine.  Elecraft has all the parts except for the 
crystal!
My new 2 band board is for 160 and 80 meters.  Works really great.
If you don't get an answer from the people who did the change, I'll searchup the
messages and send you the thread.
73,
Sandy W5TVW
K1 #1178
- Original Message - 
From: Brent Sutphin WB4X [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 7:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K1  160 meters


| Has anyone ever had a K1 on 160?  If so how did it do?
|
| Thanks
| Brent  WB4X
|
 

I'm another guy who just modified his 80/40 board to be an 80/160 board 
and it was really simple (even I could do it!).  It works well, too.  
The crystal from International Crystal cost about $20 and they were 
actually quite fast; of course Elecraft had the rest of the parts and 
they were even faster.  Total cost is about $45 -- and is worth 
itexcept, of course, the 160 m band is pretty darn near worthless 
with QRP in the summer months...but that's when I'll put the KF1-4 in 
(40, 30, 20, 15 m)!


Go for it!

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Bencher/Elecraft Hex Paddle Dust Cover

2005-02-09 Thread Joe Malloy

wayne burdick wrote:


Hi Gang,

I am SOOO pleased with my Bencher/Elecraft Hex paddle that I want to 
make sure it stays clean and pretty until I become a SK.  Does anyone 
know of a source for a Paddle Dust Cover (plexiglass) for this 
jewel?  I have been given a couple of references (one WB3EVL and a 
WP4).  One source says EVL is no longer in business (an email has 
been sent to him) and the WP4 doesn't appear to be a satisfactory 
option per reviews of his work and reliability.



Thanks for your comments, Tony.

To the list: If anyone would like to go into business making dust 
covers for this paddle, please let us know! We would definitely stock 
them.


And I would definitely buy one of them!

Joe, W2RBA
KX1 #0020
K1 # 1005
K2 # 1299

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[Elecraft] For Sale: KXAT1

2005-01-04 Thread Joe Malloy
Ok, so I goofed: When I took my KX1 out after a number of months of 
non-use, the antenna tuner wasn't working.  I figgered it was a problem 
with the tuner; I checked, reheated, rewound, checked some more and 
still no-go.  So I ordered another KXAT1 and assembled that -- a lo and 
behold! it didn't work either.  Turns out I had a bum MCU; a swift 
response by Elecraft and I was back in business.


So now I have an extra KXAT1 which, of course, is surplus to my needs. 
It's for sale at $70 including shipping (USPS Priority Mail) and 
includes the manual.  If you would like to have the benefit of my folly, 
please email me off list.  Thanks!


73,

Joe, W2RBA



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Re: [Elecraft] Hexakey? / OT: 4 Sale: K2-ATU, built, $ 95 shipped

2005-01-04 Thread Joe Malloy

Chris Wagner wrote:

Howdy,

I fancy they paddle - but have a BY-1 at home. Is the
Hexakey considerably better than a standard Bencher
paddle? Tnx es 73, Chris Kf6vci


I have the Elecraft-branded version of the Hex-Key and also the BY-2 
(and a couple of Vibroplexae).  I personally never had any trouble with 
the BY-2 and was content with its feel, but decided I had to have the 
Elecraft name (oy!).  But it's a really good paddle, the finest I have 
ever used.  I have the contacts adjusted for a very tight feel and a 
very minimal movement of the fingers is required -- and it can certainly 
handle speeds which are but a fond memory for me (I'm certified at 35 
wpm; alas, that was long ago).  The thing to do is try one -- you may 
find that you are pleased indeed.


73,

Joe, W2RBA





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Re: [Elecraft] KXAT-1 Fully Operational!

2004-11-26 Thread Joe Malloy

Richard Arland wrote:


I LOVE YOU GUYS!!!

Eric/Wayne/Richard/Gary:

The package with the new resonator, cap and CPU chip arrived this afternoon.  
[...]

It is running on a speaker as I write this, listening to 40M, and the CQ WW 
test.boy, I'm gonna have me sum kinda fun, ya'all.

Thanks again. 


73 Rich K7SZ

PS: This is what I call customer service and then some! 
 



And you're surprised, Rich?!  These guys a great when it comes to 
support -- ham radio has never had it so good!  :)


73,

Joe, W2RBA




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Re: [Elecraft] Comparing HexKey CW Paddle

2004-11-01 Thread Joe Malloy

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Has anyone been able to compare the new HexKey to keys made by Begali or
Schurr?  I have a Schurr Portable Wabbler and have had my eyes on the
Graciella Vertical Key. Just wondering how thy compare.



Jeff Burns

AD9T



I purchased one upon learning of the availability of them and I've been 
using it for about a week and a half now.  I cannot make comparisons to 
Begali, Schurr or any other of the legendary keys -- I'm used to my 
Bencher BY-1 (which is not a bad paddle at all, IMHO), a Vibroplex 
single lever paddle, a Vibroplex Iambic paddle (emblazoned with a 
Ten-Tec logo a la Elecraft's on the HexKey), a Palm mini-paddle and 
that's all I can think of at the moment.  I'd rate this HexKey of the 
most stable both in terms of weight (it ain't gonna move around and I 
slap the paddles fairly hard!) and in terms of holding a minimal spacing 
setting, it's the best of the keys I've used. 


But if you're in the Begali or Schurr league...I just don't know

73,

Joe, W2RBA


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Re: [Elecraft] wobbly knob

2004-10-31 Thread Joe Malloy

Ward Willats wrote:


My K2 AF gain knob is getting really wobbly, and seems to be getting
worse.



Yeah, same here. And the power pot is a little wobbly too -- I guess 
because these two are the most used (for me). My radio is about 13 
months old.


Think I am too lazy to actually fix it until it breaks, but maybe 
worth ordering a replacement or two to have on hand when it does...


-- Ward / KG6HAF

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My 4 and half year old K2's pot is in perfect condition...maybe they 
changed their source?


Ciao,

Joe, W2RBA


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