Manual says Effective flash range starts at 0,7m at 100 iso and 5.6.
I did tests at 400 iso, as this is the normal iso with ist + P-TTL flash.
With the two 360FTZ flashes at 0,7m from subject (a Kodak Gray
Scale), both at full power (1/1) and at a 45 degree angle, exposure
was fine from 5.6 to
Hi Arnie. You can change the ratio between the 2 flashes, like 1/3
for one and 2/3 for the second one. Is this what you mean? If so,
I'll check in the manual to see how to do it. I've done it once and
it was effective.
Andre
Jack, it works great when I do that. Just I would like to be able
Go Andre! Thanks for pursuing macro exposure performance with two
360's. I've done wireless macro hand-holding of one 360 at 25cm
from the subject and I get perfect exposures.
Have you tried f5.6 and f4? Probably not and you probably won't as
these apertures are not usefull for macro. But
Go Andre! Thanks for pursuing macro exposure performance with two
360's. I've done wireless macro hand-holding of one 360 at 25cm
from the subject and I get perfect exposures.
I don't see my post in my mail. Maybe others have not received it:
Manual says Effective flash range starts at 0,7m at
From the manual's Wireless Mode chapter (p. 37): In the P-TTL mode,
the flash amount adjustments (1/1,2/3,1/2,1/3) and flash exposure
compensation (-3.0 - + 1.0) are possible.
Curiously there is no explanation or illustration of how to do the
first thing. But it is simple: when in P-TTL
Thanks also Arnie for sharing your experience. With respect to
controlling the 1/1, 1/2, 2/3, 1/3 output ratio between the
built-in flash and the off-camera 360 as described by the 360's
manual, I do not think it will work between the two off-camera
360's. That is, setting one 360 to 1/3 and
: Andre Langevin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Multiple wireless 360FGZ flash
Hi Arnie. You can change the ratio between the 2 flashes, like 1/3
for one and 2/3 for the second one. Is this what you mean? If so,
I'll check
Guys,
Slight change of discussion course:
I mainly do the wireless outdoors and I found there are many
instances when the slave fails to sense the master trigger flash and
doesn't light at all. I've been working with the 360FGZ placed at 2-3
meters away from the camera and at an angle
- From: Andre Langevin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Multiple wireless 360FGZ flash
Hi Arnie. You can change the ratio between the 2 flashes, like 1/3
for one and 2/3 for the second one. Is this what you mean? If so,
I'll
Thanks also Arnie for sharing your experience. With respect to
controlling the 1/1, 1/2, 2/3, 1/3 output ratio between the
built-in flash and the off-camera 360 as described by the 360's
manual, I do not think it will work between the two off-camera
360's. That is, setting one 360 to 1/3 and
I can open my raw pictures in windows XP directly in PS and, without
any setting, get a good picture. In mac, the process is different
and the final result in PS is only a central portion of the original
photo and all red! The photo is fine in the small Pentax plug-in
window. Is there
From what I´ve heard some older constructions,
especially longer lenses are OK, while modern AF
lenses with IF, floating lens groups and other
more specialized designs are more vulnerable.
DagT
I'm looking for a fast 35/2 for the D. Would I
be better with an old K 35/2 or M/A 35/2 than
with
Also, as the 24/2 has a bad reputation on the D, would Kiron/Vivitar
fast 24mm lenses be better?
ANdre
http://maps.google.com/
No support for Safari yet...
Andre
I now have 2 SF1n bodies, one with coated glass optics I stole
from an SF1 and the other with the stock plastic lenses in the
viewfinder.
The plastic one is just usable, the glass one's got a viewfinder
image sharp enough to cut your eyeball!
Has anyone ever tried to purchase a 'kit' from Pentax
http://users.accesscomm.ca/wrobb/temp/blackmx/blackmx.html
Pornography! That's what that is!
A case would be appropriate but at least put a cap on the lens!
I'm pretty sure you will use the small leather thingies to avoid
brassing the corners.
IIRC the ones with serial numbers starting with 9
I highly recommed the Hakuba Grip-PH.
Larry in Dallas
Thanks for the info Larry. I will get one.
Andre
Don't know about Garry's Camera Repair, but I've done business
with Essex on several occasions and they have always done a good
job.
$100 for a good CLA is not overmuch by camera service standards
these days. My local photo tech is ICT Camera,
http://www.ictcamera.com/ ... they do an excellent
I just got my Compactdrive today. I agree with others, the finish
could be better (I'm spoiled by Apple), and the design of the plastic
doors is not the best. However, it seems solid enough, and it looks
like it will do allright in a pocket of my Domke bag.
When connected to the Mac, the computer
Indeed, 250 km east...
Andre
Swing about 400 miles west...
Geez, you know, now that I think of it, ~is~ there anyone from
Montreal on the list, now that Caveman is on hiatus? I think Andre's
in Quebec City. Can't think of anyone other than Val in Montreal.
cheers,
frank
--
Sharpness is a
Indeed, the focus of the SMC PENTAX-A 70-210/4 doesn't shift when
zoom. It is one of the few good zooms Pentax have designed.
Alan Chan
What are the other ones? Have you tried 85-210 f/3.5?
Andre
eBay has it regularly. Usually goes for $20 or $25.
Andre
Hello gang,
Want to buy:
Pentax 67 6x7 Hood PH-SA 77mm for 55mm f4 Lens.
I don't care much about condition, can't be broken - that's all :-).
BH lists it for $59.95 - I don't want to pay for the hood 20% of
the lens value.
Jerry
--
No
What did you use?
Andre
At 09:58 PM 13/03/2005 , JCO wrote:
Even if you cant shoot wide open (too soft?) a faster lens
is still better because its easier to compose
and focus accurately than a slower one. The only disadvantage
is typically size and weight.
True but I'm looking for a fast lens to use in low light. Better
The Mini. It's the one I elected for snap shots in Mongolia last
summer. I used consumer Fuji Kodak colour negs but the results were
fine, well exposed, although the lens flares much more than regular
size Pentax lenses. You can't have it all in one small package...
Andre
Could you snap a pic to indicate where exact the wobble is? Is the
whole lens barrel loose, or you just hearing the sound inside?
-
Alan, I no longer have the lens. I returned it.
If you go to Boz's site, there is a photo of the lens. Be sure to
pull up the F version. Immediately
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=3880789972
Don
The Japanese made some lovely RF's in the 60's and 70's, and they seem
to be available for next to nothing these days. I have no experience
with that one, but I bet it'll take great pix.
Nice snag, Don.
cheers,
frank
I
I got to handle an RD once and it just seemed to 'fit'.
As far as being a pain to use I'll have to give it a work out
and see.
I have rather big fingers... You may indeed like it, let's see.
I actually consider the SP rather a pain, I'll compare.
The RC on the other hand is a joy all around, just
Hi Andre
the only thing I really miss from the Olympus XA is a filter thread and a
universal flash connector.
Otherwise it is a really nice and small camera and nearly silent for
snapshots. I always have one in the car.
Indeed. This camera offers quite a lot, especialy with the A-16
flash
Has anyone used the Kiron 28mm f2?
Not used, but it is considered as the best off-brand 28/2 alongside
Vivitar 28/1.9. I don't know if Soligor 28/2 is up there also. For
flare control, you need a good tulip or rectangular hood.
Andre
About FA 85mm f1.4:
I used it quite a bit at the time, but it was heavy, bulky and had
an intimidating hood
Ken
The A 85/1.4 correct hood is also intimidating, but you can find
slimmer 67mm metal screw hoods for both A and FA 85/1.4 lenses.
A good choice is the hood made to shade Super-Takumar
As we are talking about the 15mm, and some Takumar and (few) K lenses
(not A) have an aspherical element, the japanese Pentax Lenses Study
Group seems to give a way to distinguish the aspherical lens fron the
non-asp.
The feet indication on the ASP would be 7, 4, 2, 1.5
The feet indication on
http://www.ucatv.ne.jp/~tweety/Report/Comparison15mm/Comparison15mm.htm
Notice that both shots were taken with the lens wide open! (Obviously
because the exposure time was so long.)
There's definitely a difference, but they both seem like damn fine
lenses.
Mark Roberts
Indeed. I had the same
Dario wrote:
Interesting to me, Andre. You were sure such a topic will have raised my
ears, weren't you?
I was checking your ears and as predicted...
But don't you already know this group?
You can also notice different name lettering on lenses. smc (lower case)
followed by wider PENTAX is
I saw one on ebay as a BIN for about $300 a few weeks ago - lasted
about 4 days.
Antonio
4 days! The seller must have had a bad pedigree, or this 77mm showed some use.
Andre
And the Orion that Andre mentioned is here - good price too:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=15201item=3815952261
This the Mini version at 25$. The regular Orion is here at $40
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemcategory=15201item=3816529358
Andre
I think at the time this lens was produced Ricoh made their own, and
most were very good.
Keith Whaley wrote:
That could well be!
Ricoh has been around for some time.
Do you happen to know who made the lens for Ricoh?
No, no, it's early 90's and I believe it was made by Cosina. I also
My 15mm does feature the 4 feet mark and the front lens diameter is 69 mm
(measured with a caliper). It's a K SMC PENTAX 1:3.5/15, sn 5068171.
Fabio
Fabio, is it possible to get a more precise measure? 68,6 and 69,8
seems to pertain to the two different types and your 69mm measure
lies about
Brett, Keith almost said it all. I'll add my 2 dimes:
There is only two possible K cameras and one necessary treatment
for really cold temperature: a winterized MX or KX. Tecnicians in
Quebec often have to prepare cameras for extreme cold temperature
when people like biologists work outside
National Geographic hasn't switched over to digital yet...
Cliff
Still on Kodachrome and developping their own films (K-14 process)
I've been told.
Andre
I just received a Tamron 90mm Macro that I bought on ebay. It was
supposed to be in like new condition. Turns out there is some sort of
grit in the barrel, under the focusing ring. I asked the seller if she
took the camera to the beach or something. Now I'm either going to have
to return it to
After having scanned about a thousand rolls, I can tell you that the
dust on the sensor feels like a bit less of a problem than the film
damage.
Bruce
Dust ON the film sure is a problem with scaners but has dust inside
the scanner ever been pointed as part of that problem? If so, would
it be
You'd need to compare the exact same scene, same time, same
everything including lens, which is impossible...
Tom C.
Isn't it quite possible if you you compare raw data from the cameras
at test, previously fit with (almost identical) medium speed normal
lenses?
Andre
than one parameter, you invalidate the test.
William Robb
From: Andre Langevin
You'd need to compare the exact same scene, same time, same
everything including lens, which is impossible...
Tom C.
Isn't it quite possible if you you compare raw data from the
cameras at test, previously fit
Hi,
I just bought this gem, and looking for others having some experience
with it. Above all, i'd like to see some photos taken with it...
BDimitrov's page says: The aperture ring has no click-stops, but
mine seems to have them. Is it a modified one, or ...?
Thanks,
Gabor
Boz meant that it doesn't
I will be visiting Montreal this summer and was
wondering whether anyone had any recommendations for
camera shops to visit. I would be looking for new and
used Pentax lenses, used Konica AR lenses, and
possibly some other accessory-type stuff.
Thanks,
Chaso
If you ever make it to Quebec City (a 2
Thanks everybody for the answers. Now I feel more confident using
the 645 hand-held, which I prefer.
Andre
Have you any idea how the Pentax-A 70-200mm f/4.0 compares?
Only a silly 10mm shorter! Who'd know? g
keith whaley
Bad construction and a lot of flare. Stay away from non-SMC lenses.
Andre
Hi Keith. I'll expand a bit my commentary...
Bad construction and a lot of flare. Stay away from non-SMC lenses.
I forgot who said that, but... what is meant by bad construction?
This started out as a Pentax lens. I assume a Pentax design. Did they goof?
I guess we'll never know, but it seems to
When I'm looking through the vewfinder, there is a dark grain
covering my view. This is not the case with any of my other lenses,
which includes a SMC Tak 50mm f1.4 among others. The darkness and,
to a lesser degree, the grain are reduced when the Auto-Manual
switch is over 'Manual.' The
...the Tak K 135/2.5 was so inexpensive, I figured Why not?
keith
You saved the price of a few films but all your films will bear the
mark of the cheaper lens.
If you take a lot of photographs, used medium aperture lenses are
cheap, film is expensive...
Andre
http://home.earthlink.net/~sbelinkoff/namethephotog.html
Don't know, although I have seen his face in book.
The day this photo was taken he was using a Pentax IQ Zoom PS camera, and
touting its virtues.
Do you know which one?
Andre
On a general note, any recommendations on lens hoods? Are the
Pentax recommend worthwhile? Or has someone found something better.
The recommended hood is fine but quite large. I think you can use it
with one filter and it still won't vignette but I have not tried the
20mm with both filter
Does the glass production (raw, unpolished lenses) take
place in Pentax own factories or do all camera manufacturers buy their raw
lenses from a few big factories.
Most do. Minolta has (or had) its own factory though and, in the
60s, 70s and 80s at least, mentionned this in their booklets,
I WOULD worry about a polarizer, because they are normally thicker.
DJE
Any polarizer on a 20mm will give a weird result as polarization
won't be uniform over the whole field of view.
Andre
Message -
From: Andre Langevin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2004 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: 20mm filters
Any polarizer on a 20mm will give a weird result as polarization
won't be uniform over the whole field of view.
Hi,
I would like to know: How does the K24/f3.5 compare to the K24/f2.8
with respect to contrast, distortion, vignetting, and corner
resolution?
Arnold
As there are no answers...
http://www.takinami.com/yoshihiko/photo/lens_test/pentax_superwide.html
The 2.8 has a bit more resolution in the
Don't miss the Pentax Digital Camera Showcase at
Ulan Bator while you're in the neighborhood!
Bill
Any taxi driver will know where it is, hopefully...
Golly, some of the folk here on the list have interesting jobs.
graywolf
They pay my plane, my food, etc. It's a small independant
Oh, I don't find the computer mindset so strange, after all we are
all sitting here behind a keyboard. However only 0.1% of the
population are serious photographers, and it seems like about 1/2 of
that 0.1% are into Jazz. That has to be more than a coincidence.
Through jazz you see things...
I have two different models under the Durst Neonon label. I'm not
sure both are made by Pentax but I guess so. I asked the seller for
a pic.
Andre
Who know this lens ?
Message d'origine
Sujet: FS: Rare Pentax enlarging lens
Date: 27 Dec 2003 13:33:45 GMT
De: [EMAIL
AAAh both very nice lenses especially the 50mm f2.8 el nikkor, it
is almost apochromatic.
William
For Nikon, I know, I have a 4/50 enlarging lens and my brother a 2.8/50.
But I never see (in France) a Pentax enlarging lens.
Thank's
Michel
Pentax \ Neonon should be good also. They were sold
LXs that have been CLAed are usually very tough. There is no other
choice for some of us as no other partly mechanical cameras (1/75 to
1/2000) offer TTL flash. I'd bring an MX as a back-up though.
Only complaint about MX is that the high speeds need adjustment more
often than the older
Uh-uh... Author broke his old Nikon gear and then bought used but
mintish Asahi equipment on eBay. Fiction...
http://www.jwhubbers.nl/francis/img/reflex.jpg
Thanks Jan. I found the novel. It's called Reflex
Check out the cover art:
Just heard on NBC Morning- Francesco Scavullo passes away.
Some links (can't find the specific news yet)
http://www.scavullo.com/
http://www.worksonpaper.biz/BioText.asp?Name=Francesco+Scavullo
Ryan
His black and white stuff is impressive. I wish I could see real
prints as offset printing
Just heard on NBC Morning- Francesco Scavullo passes away.
... and we don't miss him
On my top ten list of over-rated
artists/photographers/writers
annsan the cruel
Certainly not a major photographer. Still, he managed to give a few
good bw portraits.
Andre
I now no longer have to use an external meter with
my M lens, and get center weighted metering from the camera.
Bill
Or even matrix metering with Mark Roberts' low-cost mount
modification or Michel Carrere-Gee do-it-yourself Kapton taping.
Especially nice for wide-angles.
Andre
You know, with these fixes and at $1350 (BH) this is a pretty nice camera.
vbg I'm now deeply curious at the proposed low end Baby D.
Steven Desjardins
$1350?
Andre
So, how many of the list are now considering the istD now that it will
work better with the K and M lenses? I'm now giving it some thought.
shel
I was rather waiting for a price drop as I knew I could live with
this shortcoming by unscrewing the K and M lenses. Still, it is a
better camera
Pentax MZ-5n + battery grip. Mint with boxes and instruction manual.
I took about 6 slide films with this camera, perfect results all the
time (mostly with a 24-90mm). I have it for sale as I found a MZ-3
two months ago. $255. + shipping
Pentax MZ-3 + grip. Like new in Boxes with
the ones recommended are the double element types from either Nikon or
Canon. i don't know if anyone else makes them that are easily obtainable.
they are more expensive than ordinary single element closeup lenses.
Herb...
Minolta and Sigma are quite common also.
I used the Nikon Close-up lenses
I personally would not bother with these lenses.
Buy a bellows and some high quality 6 element enlarging
lenses ( Rodagons, Componons, etc) and you will
be jammin'. Beauty part is these enlarging lenses
are dirt cheap used on ebay now due to the many people
abandoning conventional darkrooms..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=2979324374
FYI,
This is the 45-125mm F4 SMC Zoom-Takumar. It is rare and an excellent optic.
I have
one and its really a very good lens. Took me years to find it.
Disclaimer: I have no relation to, or knowledge of seller!
And knowledge of PDML
While bellows/enlarging lens may not be as cheap as a closeup
lens, the achromatic ones are not $5-$15 and the bellows/enlarging
lenses are cheaper than dedicated macro lenses.Especially
if you want multiple focal lengths
Minolta achromatic close-up lens, on eBay, can be found at that
Hi, if I recall correctly, the proxars made for 645 and 67 lenses were
2-element at least.
From Pentax, yes but not the Proxar brand by Zeiss (Hasselblad and
others), these are one single-element, a source of dissatisfaction
for Hassy users who rely on Nikon and others.
There is a
weblist of
I have found that the dial is designed to pull rather than push.
While holding the camera, you thumb can comfortable reach the dial.
Set the thum slightly off-center and pull gently and you will find the
dial moves rather easily. If you push against it, it is almost as if
the camera fights you.
Proxar is indeed a nice sounding word and would make a good generic
name for CU lens, better than Kleenex for facial tissues...
Hi Andre, I am sorry for the confusion but here in Czech republic,
being so close to both East and West Zeiss, the usual name for
close-up lenses in Proxar among old
Minolta and Sigma are quite common also.
The Sigma is now discontinued. I have one and I'm quite pleased with it.
It's a 58mm thread and works nicely on my 200mm f/4.0 for the 645.
They're probably still to be found on eBay.
Mark Roberts
The Sigma (1,5 or 1,6 diopter) can also be found in 52mm
The Sigma (1,5 or 1,6 diopter) can also be found in 52mm and 62mm
(and replace Nikon 3T and 4T). The 58mm was offered as a specific
CU for their 70-300mm lens.
Fascinating. The famous Achromatic Close-Up Lens Page
(http://www.angelfire.com/ca/erker/closeups.html) mentions only the 58mm
version.
??? WOW, this a message I sent in march!
Resent-Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 12:59:36 -0500
X-Authentication-Warning: host24.websitesource.com: dbrewer set
sender to [EMAIL PROTECTED] using -f
X-Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2003 12:59:30 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Andre Langevin
Just 1324$ in such a fantastic set... It's a steal!
http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=detailssku=IPXISTDK
--
Best regards
Sylwek
Body alone is more expensive. Must be an error. If I buy it at that
price, will they honor their price? I'll try... But too nice to be
true...
Andre
Just 1324$ in such a fantastic set... It's a steal!
http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=detailssku=IPXISTDK
--
Best regards
Sylwek
Body alone is more expensive. Must be an error. If I buy it at
that price, will they honor their price? I'll try... But too nice
to be true...
Andre
It was an
I'll ditto that comment, Nick.
I got mine some time ago. I went in for a Pentqx W/A. The old camera
shop owner told me he didn't have one, but to try this Vivitar, and see
what I think. He discounted it handsomely and said he'd take it back if
I didn't like it.
He'll NEVER get it back! g
That is
Adorama appears to be the first in the U.S. to list it on their
site, at $429.95. Not in stock, though.
Joe
And 1725 with the D camera. So $375 for the lens when sold in kit,
as the D can be had for $1350.
Andre
A few days ago, I used a 50/4 macro on a MZ-S to photograph paintings
and it was not always easy to use the focus assist. I needed a
contrasty line somewhere in the painting to get it to work. Also, it
seemed to me that the focus assist was a bit off compared to my eye.
Which one is the best,
Sounds suspiciously close to the price someone mentioned Adorama as
having, that they would not honor. Got a little ahead of themselves
with the advertising do you suppose?
They advertised at 1325, said it was supposed to be 1725 and offered
me a special price of 1625... Hopefully, I denied
I look at the lens and it somehow looks different to me now...
Sven
Under a different light, as we say...
Andre
The one from your site I prefer is
http://home.earthlink.net/~scbelinkoff/images/close1.jpg
Reminds me of a William Klein photograph, not really as joyfull as
this one though...
Andre
I was going through my takumar screw-mount lenses trying to put rough
dates on them, to figure out if any of them are as old as the yet-undated
spotmatic I asked about. Some of them are, in fact, older than I am.
Based on serial numbers, I also have an interesting case.
I have a 24/3.5 Super
Ian,
Quick way to distinguish the 135/2.5's...
1) The old original K135/2.5 has a 58mm front filter and bayonette mount.
2) The cheap Takumar 135/2.5 has a 52mm front filter, a bayonette
mount, and the f stops are painted different colors (plus it has
Takumar written right around the outside
I wasn't aware Pentax had made the AF360FGZ available in analog TTL
mode. Other Pentax autofocus flashes support digital TTL mode only
afaik.
Alan Chan
Does it have anything to do with P-TTL ? Or with dual
analog-digital electronics ?
Andre
Acetone is about the best glass cleaner around. But you must avoid
touching the plastic or black paint around the front element.
Andre
Acetone is about the best glass cleaner around. But you must avoid
touching the plastic or black paint around the front element.
Andre
I would not guarantee it wouldn't remove the lens coating also.
--
graywolf
Acetone won't affect the coating. Acetone is said to be the best
glass cleaner
MEK is fairly toxic compared to alcohol and acetone and dissolves a lot of
things one normally finds around electronics, especially a lot of plastics.
Herb...
Acetone has pretty much the same capacity to burn the
polycarbonate. Hopefully not as toxic. I use it with care : Q-tip
soaked but not
A while back Juan Buhler and I went out shooting in San
Francisco. Anyone heard from Juan in the last year or so?
Anyway, this was one of the shots I grabbed that day.
Comments welcome.
http://home.earthlink.net/~scbelinkoff/images/sfpic2.html
Composition is great but I'm more concerned about the
A while back Juan Buhler and I went out shooting in San
Francisco. Anyone heard from Juan in the last year or so?
Anyway, this was one of the shots I grabbed that day.
Comments welcome.
http://home.earthlink.net/~scbelinkoff/images/sfpic2.html
Composition is great but I'm more concerned about the
I might have an impression or feeling that the renditions of the two
lenses were different without being able to wrap the concept of
bokeh around my observations.
It is also possible that the SMCP and SMC Takumar lenses do differ,
even if their optical formulas are supposedly the same.
I wonder if
Fun! It made me laugh, so in my books, that's a good product...
Andre
http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2142532
Sometimes I like it. Others, I think it's horrible. If you have an
opinion, feel free to share.
thanks,
frank
The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible
Maybe some new-old stock from a closing photo shop?
Stan
A Pentax Rep. that was in Quebec last month told me he still had the
200mm 2.8 in stock. I asked for his price and still wait for that.
I know it will be too high, but who knows...
Andre
This is a camera from the era where I had closed my eyes to Pentax (from
SF1 until *ist) because I had switched to Nikon for most of my work.
I had poo-pood this camera at first sight because it reminded me too much
of the SF1. I have not heard ANYBODY say anything about the SF1 on this
list, and
I have no idea how the typical lens coating material compares in
hardness, quantitatively speaking.
We only know SMC is harder than the glass under it (dixit Pentax).
Andre
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