VACList-Digest Thursday, October 4, 2001 Issue 82
Today's Topics:
1. Re: floor dry rot?
2. Re: One tire wear
3. Re: Preparing Skin for Polishing
4. Re: Control center problems
5. Re: Control center problems
6. Re: One tire wear
7. Control Center Problems
8. how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
9. Tail Sag
10. Re :control center problems
11. Re: "Dry Rot"
12. Re: Control Center Problems
13. how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
14. Fresh and grey water capacity
15. Tow vehicle Question
16. Re: Tow vehicle Question
17. Re: Tow vehicle Question
18. Re: Tow vehicle Question
19. Re: Tow vehicle Question
20. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
21. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
22. Top of Georgia Rally LIST
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:24:43 -0700
From: j eric townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floor dry rot?
>If you want a HUGE project and can get the trailer for <=$500...it
>*might* be worth it.
I assume the fix for this is lifting the body, inserting new plywood, and
putting the body back on the frame?
--
J. Eric Townsend -- http://www.spies.com/jet
Were you in USASSG/ACSI/MACV in Vietnam, 1967-1970? Drop me a line if so...
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:06:22 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: One tire wear
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Charlie, I went out this afternoon and looked around and started to tug on
> the tires. That wheel has slight play in it. When pulling on the top you can
> hear the play. Grabbing the front and rear of the tire and trying to shift
> it, no movement. Could this be a red flag?
>
> J.L.Dietz
>
What you describes suggests a bearing problem. When the wheel/tire is rotated do
you hear any grinding or a varying sound. It may be that the bearing did not get
preloaded properly at its last repack.
Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:15:17 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Preparing Skin for Polishing
James Greene wrote:
> Looking ahead a few weeks(?) to the time to begin polishing my
> Tradewind, what is the method for removing the various objects
> attached to the skin? I have the following to remove to simplify and
> expedite polishing: 1. Tradewind logo w/serial number to right of the
> door2. Land Yacht raised script letters between tail lights3. Various
> reflectors attached to the skin Since none of these have exposed
> rivets or screws, how do they come off and how are they reattached
> after polishing? I suspect those of you with the pretty shiny trailers
> have solved these problems already and would be willing to forestall
> reinventing the wheel. Many thanks, Jim Greene' 68 Tradewind
>
The first two pieces are held on with studs cast into the back. The
later cast letter sets were done the same way. The skin is drilled
during construction and the piece is placed and capture nuts are applied
from the inside. The accepted procedure is to use a putty knife placed
behind the piece to cut the studs. When reapplying them drill holes in
the piece that correspond to the old stud holes and reattach with
colored rivets. If you can't hit the old hole seal it with a dab of
Vulkem and drill a new one.
Reflectors are either riveted on or double stick taped. Sometimes both
are used. Pry carefully.
Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:17:12 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control center problems
Todd Matthews wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> My control center is no longer working. All switches dead. I pulled it down
> and looked at the bottom of the circuit board and found that one of the
> solder lines is fried. I tried to solder it together but cannot get the
> solder to stick very well. I have a feeling a transistor (don't know if this
> is the right term) is bad also.
>
> Is there a replacement for just the board? Do I have to buy a used unit?
>
> My trailer is a 1972 21' Globetrotter.
>
> Thanks,
> Todd
As a general rule you have to repair what you've got. There are no new ones
Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 20:42:32 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control center problems
Todd:
My '73 has much the same board. The only part of that that is really
necessary ( most of the state of the tanks battery etc are not reliable)
is the switch for the water pump.
You may be able to get the part, but my guess is that just wiring the
water pump so it will run and by passing all the other stuff will be the
eventual solution.
Daisy
Todd Matthews wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> My control center is no longer working. All switches dead. I pulled it down
> and looked at the bottom of the circuit board and found that one of the
> solder lines is fried. I tried to solder it together but cannot get the
> solder to stick very well. I have a feeling a transistor (don't know if this
> is the right term) is bad also.
>
> Is there a replacement for just the board? Do I have to buy a used unit?
>
> My trailer is a 1972 21' Globetrotter.
>
> Thanks,
> Todd
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 21:39:21 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: One tire wear
In a message dated 10/3/01 8:22:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
What you describes suggests a bearing problem. When the wheel/tire is
rotated do
you hear any grinding or a varying sound. It may be that the bearing did not
get
preloaded properly at its last repack.
Charlie
>>
Charlie,
Being a bit neurotic I pulled that wheel this afternoon. There was no
grinding, dry or unusual sound when I spun the wheel. After completely
cleaning and a careful inspection I saw no signs of wear. I had pulled the
wheels this spring, checked and repacked the bearings, cleaned, inspected the
hubs and drums. I guess I did not load the bearing enough? Being able to get
a close look at the tire it is indeed wearing more on the outside, but hasn't
cupped as of yet. I guess alignment is in order. I think there is a dealer
near Danville called D.J.? Danville is about 1.5 hr. from here. If they
handle these things.
J.L.Dietz #4361
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:55 -0500
From: Mike E Geld <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Control Center Problems
Todd,
I had the same thing happen with my '72 International circuit board.
I fixed it by soldering a thick piece of solid copper wire slightly
longer than the break.
The most important thing to do is to clean the remaining trace copper to
a shiny look and be careful not to overheat the board.
I found the problem was caused by the power on bulb being "on" all the
time and drawing too much current through the trace.
I put a led in the bulb's place and all has been well for ten years now.
Hope this helps,
Mike Kent
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:53:39 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
Friends....
I have narrowed my Airstream search down to a 27 to 29 foot Overlander or
Ambassador from the 1970's. It will just fit in my driveway, I can tow it
with my pickup, and it will fit in smaller camp sites.
While I like the looks of Airstreams from the 1960s, I thought that it
would be harder to find parts for older Airstreams when I try to repair and
refurbish it. I may be wrong about that...??
Anyway, I understand that some longer Airstreams tend to droop in the rear
if a fix was not installed. Some posts to this mailing list have a tag
line that says something like "center bathroom" . Is that a option I
should look for in a 27 to 29 foot trailer? How do I find out if a rear
bath has the "fix" installed to stop rear droop? Does anyone have a
picture of this fix?
I have a good eye, and I have been involved with restoration of old cars,
but I admit to not knowing a thing about Airstreams. I am not sure what to
look for. Help!
Do I look for:
Broken frame? How
wood rot? How?
Break or wheel types?
Center bath better?
Anything else?
I am in Portland Oregon. If you have a Airstream for sale and are in my
area (Oregon or Washington) drop me a line.
Advice appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:55:03 -0500
From: Mike E Geld <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tail Sag
Hi to all,
I have a '72 International rear bath (no grey water tank) that has a
little sag due to the frame where the axles bolt on.
I looked under and saw a couple of small wrinkles between the axles on
the frame.
Airstream was good enough to send me a picture of the reinforcment plates
so that I could make my own but the instructions that told how to install
it said one must remove the axles to attach it.
I don't have a problem making the plate but lifting that much weight to
remove the axles sounds mucho dangerous as I have to do it outside in my
yard.
What do you folks think of just making a shorter plate to bolt between
the axles?
I would not have to remove the axles that way.
I do not live anywhere near a dealer so the "take it to the dealer"
option is out.
Thanks much,
Mike Kent
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 19:21:56 -0700
From: Bill Worden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re :control center problems
One simple solution to repairing damaged circuit boards where solder and
the thin "printed" copper is lost, is to solder a splice with a small
strand of buss wire between the to closest areas of good material or
adjacent terminals. You can use single strand insulated wire too.
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 22:01:32 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: "Dry Rot"
Technically, there is no such thing as dry rot. Rot is caused by the wood
being moist enough so that various organisms can grow in it that decompose
the wood. If the rotted wood dries out again, the decomposed wood is left,
and some call this condition "dry rot." Rot is rot, and the amount of
structural damage just depends how far the decomposition has progressed, and
that's pretty hard to determine from a photo. You really need to show up
with an ice pick and see how far into the wood you can penetrate with it in
various places. While most of my floor was sound, I could poke my bare thumb
through in one spot under the water pump. In other areas around the door,
the top of the ply had started to decompose, but the lower plys were solid.
You really can't tell till you start jabbing.
Dan Weeks
75 Argosy 26
> From: VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 16:38:50 -0700
> To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [VAC]
>
> Subject: floor dry rot?
>
> I'm looking at a thrashed Airstream that the owner describes as
> having "dry rot" in the floor.
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 13:12:55 +0000
From: "Todd Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control Center Problems
Great idea on the LED. I have a feeling that the bulb being on all the time
did it.
Thanks,
Todd
>From: Mike E Geld <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Control Center Problems
>Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2001 20:36:55 -0500
>
>Todd,
>I had the same thing happen with my '72 International circuit board.
>I fixed it by soldering a thick piece of solid copper wire slightly
>longer than the break.
>The most important thing to do is to clean the remaining trace copper to
>a shiny look and be careful not to overheat the board.
>
>I found the problem was caused by the power on bulb being "on" all the
>time and drawing too much current through the trace.
>I put a led in the bulb's place and all has been well for ten years now.
>Hope this helps,
>Mike Kent
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 06:22:46 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
Friends....
I have narrowed my Airstream search down to a 27 to 29 foot Overlander or
Ambassador from the 1970's. It will just fit in my driveway, I can tow it
with my pickup, and it will fit in smaller camp sites.
While I like the looks of Airstreams from the 1960s, I thought that it
would be harder to find parts for older Airstreams when I try to repair and
refurbish it. I may be wrong about that...??
Anyway, I understand that some longer Airstreams tend to droop in the rear
if a fix was not installed. Some posts to this mailing list have a tag
line that says something like "center bathroom" . Is that a option I
should look for in a 27 to 29 foot trailer? How do I find out if a rear
bath has the "fix" installed to stop rear droop? Does anyone have a
picture of this fix?
I have a good eye, and I have been involved with restoration of old cars,
but I admit to not knowing a thing about Airstreams. I am not sure what to
look for. Help!
Do I look for:
Broken frame? How
wood rot? How?
Break or wheel types?
Center bath better?
Anything else?
I am in Portland Oregon. If you have a Airstream for sale and are in my
area (Oregon or Washington) drop me a line.
Advice appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 07:23:39 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fresh and grey water capacity
About how big (in gallons) are the holding tanks in 1970s era Ambassadors
and Overlanders? I am thinking about the 27 to 29 foot models.
Do Airstreams of that era have three tanks; one for fresh water, one for
grey and one for black?
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 12:18:39 -0400
From: Majorie Smallfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Tow vehicle Question
I know this is an old subject but we have our Airstream, a 1970 Safari and
now need a tow vehicle. We are looking at a vintage pickup truck. It is a
1971 Chevrolet, 350 v-8, 1/2 ton pickup truck. It is in fantastic condition
with only 10,000 original miles on it. It has been stored for years. We are
wondering if this would be adequate to pull our Airstream. All opinions are
welcome.
Thanks,
Margie and John
Michigan
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 10:37:47 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tow vehicle Question
All other 70's chevy trucks have rusted down to nothing. At only 10,000
miles in 30 years, there's a good chance the engine is rusty inside, and
that all the seals and gaskets have rotted from old age. Running it may
initially prove expensive.
Whether it will pull your airstream depends on the rear axle gear ratio.
A higher numeric ratio pulls better.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 13:03:57 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tow vehicle Question
I would imagine that if the pickup proves to be reliable then it would
handle your Safari OK no matter the rear axle ratio. I had a 1/2 ton
Suburban with a 350 and the non towing, gas saving rear end. It handled my
5000# Overlander. It would of had to work hard in the mountains, but it
would of done the job.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Majorie Smallfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 12:18 PM
Subject: [VAC] Tow vehicle Question
> I know this is an old subject but we have our Airstream, a 1970 Safari and
> now need a tow vehicle. We are looking at a vintage pickup truck. It is a
> 1971 Chevrolet, 350 v-8, 1/2 ton pickup truck. It is in fantastic
condition
> with only 10,000 original miles on it. It has been stored for years. We
are
> wondering if this would be adequate to pull our Airstream. All opinions
are
> welcome.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Margie and John
> Michigan
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 14:39:22 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Tow vehicle Question
In a message dated 10/4/01 12:50:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< All other 70's chevy trucks have rusted down to nothing. At only 10,000
miles in 30 years, there's a good chance the engine is rusty inside, and
that all the seals and gaskets have rotted from old age. Running it may
initially prove expensive. >>
Gerald,
I strongly disagree, a well maintained 70's vintage tow vehicle is perfectly
adequate to tow a vintage trailer, especially if it is a 22' Safari that
doesn't weigh a tremendous amount. I do recommend replacement of all belts,
hoses, tires, etc if the truck has not spent much time on the road recently.
I would also recommend using it regularly around home for a while before
taking off on a long trip. If time-worn items are going to break, they may
as well break close to home and not on a trip. After some use, any weak
items will give way and you can have them replaced before you head off with
trailer in tow.
I have a 71 Buick Electra with 23,000 miles that I have great faith in and
would not think anything about using it to tow my 77 Excella 31', except that
the car is unrestored and too nice to make a tow vehicle out of. I also use
a 78 Chrysler New Yorker sometimes. It does very well, but the early 70's
engines were not so restricted by polution control. It sure gets tremendous
attention when coupled with a similar vintage Airstream, though the 6 mpg
makes me usually stay closer to home when using this tow vehicle. For the
long trips, I have a new Suburban which looks a bit ordinary but does give 12
mpg towing the Excella.
John
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 13:52:06 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Tow vehicle Question
I SPECIFICALLY said "70's chevy" trucks. NOT ALL 70s tow vehicles. My
dad had one, it had a strong engine (especially since he'd rebuilt it
for the neighbor a couple years before buying the truck) but the truck
cab rusted from the inside out. When riding it one would be showered
with rust from the inside windshield trim ring disintegrating. Next to
the rusting steel roof liner.
How well any given ENGINE tows still depends on the drive train gear
ratios. In the 70s, there were good heavy duty truck transmissions like
the Warner T18 and T19 with good granny gears that made manual
transmission trucks pull like those with automatics and depending on the
torque converter for starting torque. Yet an economy axle with a numeric
ratio under 3:1 could eliminate much of the towing capacity. The same
truck with a 4.1:1 axle could move a small house, but not with a 2.79
axle.
At the same era Ford sold a 3 speed plus overdrive transmission that was
easily broken. I drove one such used pickup equipped with a 2.79 axle
and oversize tires. I could feel the power stroke of each of those six
cylinders at 65 MPH. That truck would have been worthless for towing
without major changes in transmission, tires, and rear axle gears. I
talked to mechanics and they knew that particular transmission well,
from having to repair many. A Warner T19 it wasn't.
As for rubber parts, like hoses and belts, I figure they should be
changed every 10 years no matter how few the miles. That can save a lot
of distress on a hot day on the road when one gives up. And can save a
lot of engine life by not drastically overheating it. Also water pumps.
And fuel injection pressure regulators. I base this on experience
replacing parts on the roadside or loosing parts that should have been
changed on such a schedule.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 16:06:13 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
In a message dated 10/4/01 10:28:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
About how big (in gallons) are the holding tanks in 1970s era Ambassadors
and Overlanders? I am thinking about the 27 to 29 foot models.
In 1975 the 27 ft. International Rear bath. 20 gal. main, 10 gal Aux.
International center bath. 17 gal. main, 17 gal. Aux.
Land Yacht 13 gal. main, 10 gal. Aux. `
Do Airstreams of that era have three tanks; one for fresh water, one for
gray and one for black?
I believe sometime around 73 Aux. (gray) tanks were added. Someone on the
list will know when for sure. They were small back then. The fresh water
tanks were large 45 gal. Still not enough for our family of 5 with hefty
shower needs. But that is another story.
J.L.Dietz #4361
>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 17:42:48 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
My 1972 Safari had a 50 gal freshwater tank, around 17 gal blackwater tank,
and no washwater (grey) tank at all.
- Dick
(5368)
At 07:23 AM 10/4/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>About how big (in gallons) are the holding tanks in 1970s era Ambassadors
>and Overlanders? I am thinking about the 27 to 29 foot models.
>
>Do Airstreams of that era have three tanks; one for fresh water, one for
>grey and one for black?
>
>jack
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 18:54:52 -0700
From: Blair Prestin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Top of Georgia Rally LIST
Hi folks time for an update
Please add yourself to the list if your
going to TOP of Georgia the 1-4 of November
so we can see how many listees are going so
we can gather up for eye ballin'
and I'll keep it current and send off to George
at the last minute as suggested by Dick Kenan.
CHECK OUT www.topofga.org It's a beautiful place!
Thanks
>Blair:
>
>>At 08:24 PM 09/26/2001 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
> Robert Gill, '73 Ambassador, 11/01
>
>Jim Greene, ' 68 Tradewind, probably arriving 11/01
>
>Dick Kenan, '95 Excella 10/31 or 11/1, I think.
>Dave and Ann Lowrey, 77 Sovereign, Arriving 11/1
>
>John Muller -- Atlanta planning to drive up for Sat morning and early
>afternoon.
Blair Prestin, 64 Tradewind, Arriving 10/31
Herb & Sidra Spies, 63 Globetrotter, 11/02
Need answers to a Personal or Business Legal question?
Visit the most Comprehensive and Free Legal Resource Center
on the Internet for both Business and Personal Legal concerns.
Just click here: www.prepaidlegal.com/info/blair
PPL Membership Overview 212.796.7262
Blair Prestin
2659 Ramada Road
Burlington, NC 27215
336-227-9000
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #82
************************************
To unsubscribe or change to a e-mail format format, please go to
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
