VACList-Digest Friday, October 5, 2001 Issue 83
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
2. Aux tank?
3. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
4. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
5. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
6. Re: Aux tank?
7. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
8. Re: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
9. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
10. Re: Aux tank?
11. Re: floor dry rot?
12. Re:
13. Fresh and grey water capacity
14. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
15. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
16. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
17. Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
18. Awning replacement?
19. Wheel Wells cracks
20. Re: Wheel Wells cracks
21. Re: Wheel Wells cracks
22. Re: Wheel Wells cracks
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 17:40:44 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
At 05:42 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, Dick wrote:
>My 1972 Safari had a 50 gal freshwater tank, around 17 gal blackwater
>tank, and no washwater (grey) tank at all.
So I take it the grey water is plumbed into the same holding tank as the
blackwater?
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 17:45:30 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Aux tank?
At 04:06 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>In 1975 the 27 ft. International Rear bath. 20 gal. main, 10 gal Aux.
>
>The fresh water
>tanks were large 45 gal.
So in the Airstream line, Airstream called the black water tank the "Aux" tank?
>Still not enough for our family of 5 with hefty
>shower needs. But that is another story.
I have seen extra water tanks in (I think) Camping World catalogs. I guess
one could retrofit one. But perhaps there is no room?
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:18:20 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
My 73 Ambasador does not have a grey water tank, I think the '74s do.
Floor plan is everything. I am mighty fond of my rear double bed, but
then there's just the two of us.
Daisy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/4/01 10:28:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> <<
> About how big (in gallons) are the holding tanks in 1970s era Ambassadors
> and Overlanders? I am thinking about the 27 to 29 foot models.
>
> In 1975 the 27 ft. International Rear bath. 20 gal. main, 10 gal Aux.
> International center bath. 17 gal. main, 17 gal. Aux.
> Land Yacht 13 gal. main, 10 gal. Aux. `
>
> Do Airstreams of that era have three tanks; one for fresh water, one for
> gray and one for black?
>
> I believe sometime around 73 Aux. (gray) tanks were added. Someone on the
> list will know when for sure. They were small back then. The fresh water
> tanks were large 45 gal. Still not enough for our family of 5 with hefty
> shower needs. But that is another story.
>
> J.L.Dietz #4361
>
> >>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:35:30 -0400
From: D Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Nope, it's plumbed right to the ground. That was allowed most everywhere
in those days. You would have to either get full hook up with sewer, or
a blue tank that you can trundle to the dump station. Nothing wrong with
grey water, I think it is all a plot among plumbers and bored
bureaucrats.
Daisy
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
>
> At 05:42 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, Dick wrote:
>
> >My 1972 Safari had a 50 gal freshwater tank, around 17 gal blackwater
> >tank, and no washwater (grey) tank at all.
>
> So I take it the grey water is plumbed into the same holding tank as the
> blackwater?
>
> jack
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 19:06:28 -0700
From: j eric townsend <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
At 9:35 PM -0400 10/4/01, D Welch wrote:
>Nope, it's plumbed right to the ground.
>
[...]
>Nothing wrong with
>grey water,
I beg to differ. If you're camping in an area with
pack-it-in/pack-it-out rules, all that dish detergent, food bits off
plates, grease from the frying pan, used shampoo and toothpaste, etc,
is a no-no.
My rule usually is -- If you're not willing to dump it on the front
step of your house, don't dump it on the campsite.
--
J. Eric Townsend -- http://www.spies.com/jet
Were you in USASSG/ACSI/MACV in Vietnam, 1967-1970? Drop me a line if so...
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Thu, 4 Oct 2001 22:27:15 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Aux tank?
In a message dated 10/4/01 8:54:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<<
So in the Airstream line, Airstream called the black water tank the "Aux"
tank?
>Still not enough for our family of 5 with hefty
>shower needs. But that is another story.
I have seen extra water tanks in (I think) Camping World catalogs. I guess
one could retrofit one. But perhaps there is no room?
>>
Jack, The size would lead you to believe that the large tank would be the
gray however, Just the opposite, Aux. is the gray. If I think about it to
much it confuses me sometimes. I just know the right valve is the gray and
left is black. Before the laws about dumping gray water on the ground went
into effect few people had concern about the surface water. Judging by the
size of the gray tanks in the seventies watering the lawn was still popular.
I have seen on the list people inquiring about adding a tank. I would think
that if it were posable it would require a lot of work. Personally the gray
tanks are only large enough to hold the wash water from hand washing and
such. Most places we drain the gray on the ground through a hose adapter on
the sewage outlet. Other times we carry a 25 gal blue tank to hold the gray
till we get it to the dump.
J.L.Dietz #4361
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:08:04 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Jack Honeycutt wrote:
> About how big (in gallons) are the holding tanks in 1970s era Ambassadors
> and Overlanders? I am thinking about the 27 to 29 foot models.
>
> Do Airstreams of that era have three tanks; one for fresh water, one for
> grey and one for black?
>
> jack
>
The third (gray/aux) tank was introduced in 1973. Since then they all have
three tanks. The side bath models have larger tanks than the rear bath
models.
If no one else has for sure numbers on the black(main) and gray(aux) tanks
you can do the dumb an known quantity of water measuring system.
Charlie
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 21:11:12 -0500
From: KEVIN D ALLEN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
> Friends....
>
> I have narrowed my Airstream search down to a 27 to 29 foot Overlander or
> Ambassador from the 1970's. It will just fit in my driveway, I can tow it
> with my pickup, and it will fit in smaller camp sites.
After having towed my '64 Overlander with three tow vehicles, I would
definitely want to be sure that my truck was a 3/4 ton with a large V8. My
first truck was a 1/2 ton with 5.7 liter V8 and complete towing package
rated at 6,800 pounds. The truck chasis handled the trailer acceptably, but
the engine simply did not have enough power for safe travel in the Rocky
Mountains. My current tow vehicle is a 3/4 ton with 7.4 liter V8 and heavy
duty trailering package - - doesn't even notice trailer and gets better solo
and towing mileage than the 1/2 ton - - rides better as well since it was
special ordered without the off road package that it seems all dealers in
this area insist on ordering for stocked 4-wheel drive trucks.
>
> While I like the looks of Airstreams from the 1960s, I thought that it
> would be harder to find parts for older Airstreams when I try to repair
and
> refurbish it. I may be wrong about that...??
Repairs aren't going to be that much different between a trailer of the '60s
as compared to the mid '70s. The unique Airstream components may prove
difficult to find, but most of the wear prone features are comparable to
their modern equivalents. Actually, there are probably more unique
Airstream components on a mid '70s trailer compared to a mid '60s. I have
found very little on my '64 that hasn't been fairly easily repaired, but I
do have an excellent Airstream dealer nearby who gladly works on vintage
coaches. I would encourage you to look at a variety of '60s as well as '70s
coaches to get a feel for the aesthetics of each. That is what I did when I
purchased my Overlander. Found the '64 much more aesthetically pleasing
especially since I prefer the natural wood cabinetry (fine grade plywood
veneers) used in the '60s compared to the tambour of the '70s - - but this
is strictly a personal preference - - vive le difrerence!. The only
components that I have had difficulty replacing in my Overlander were the
wall sconces - - finally went with similar modern units which look period,
but obviously are not original. All of the basic utilities have been
upgraded including refrigerator, water pump, water tank, hot water heater,
furnace, and air conditioner - - all are modern manufacture, but due to the
assistance of a local craftsman the new fixtures blend right into the
interior.
If your primary concern that is preventing you from considering a 60s coach
is parts availability, don't let this immediately deter you. So long as the
coach is in good condition to begin with, there isn't a tremendous problem
with finding most wear parts. My suggestion would be to closely look at
severl models from 60s, 70s, and possibly even the 80s to determine which is
most aesthetically pleasing to you. I now realize that I probably never
would have been happy if I had settled for my second choice 1978 coach
rather than my '64 - - as the aesthetics of the '64 just shouted You are
Home when I first walked into the rig.
>
> Anyway, I understand that some longer Airstreams tend to droop in the rear
> if a fix was not installed. Some posts to this mailing list have a tag
> line that says something like "center bathroom" . Is that a option I
> should look for in a 27 to 29 foot trailer? How do I find out if a rear
> bath has the "fix" installed to stop rear droop? Does anyone have a
> picture of this fix?
Due to age, use, and road salt exposure virtually any vintage Airstream
"can" suffer frame problems including but not limited to droop. A well
maintained '60s coach may be a little less likely to suffer from droop, as
the primary problem began in the '70s. I looked at both rear and
side/center bath models and quickly ruled out side/center baths as they
proved much too claustraphobic for me - - I really like the openness of the
rear bath in my Overlander. I am sure that someone on the list can fill you
in on identifying frame droop - - I know it has something to do with ripples
in the skin in the vicinity of the wheel openings - - and a steel plate of
some type is visible on the frame in the wheel well area if the repair has
been made. A second potential problem is rear frame separation where the
rear bumper moves independently of the rear of the coach when firm, heavy
pressure is applied to the rear bumper - - this was a problem that was
beginning to develop on my coach which was stopped by removing the
aftermarket rear mounted spare tire carrier and repaired by reinforcing the
frame and some of the rear outriggers.
>
> I have a good eye, and I have been involved with restoration of old cars,
> but I admit to not knowing a thing about Airstreams. I am not sure what to
> look for. Help!
>
> Do I look for:
>
> Broken frame? How
>
> wood rot? How?
Check the perimeter along the inside wall. Where you can walk - - walk
noticing whether there is a noticeable difference in the amount of bounce
in the floor - - not always a definitive indicator but a poorly disguised
serious problem can usually be uncoveed in this manner - - found a huge hole
in front of the front sofa on one unit with this method. Bouncing a rubber
mallet or "poking" with a metal awl along the perimeter may also help to
identify rot. areas immediately under the windows - - especially front and
rear seem to be rather usual locations for problems - - the one stop
compartment had some significant rot in my rig which was identified with an
awl - - a synthetic consolidant and overlay product was used by my local
dealer to repair this problem. Examine the area near both the water heater
and fresh water tank as both of these units can be the source of rot if they
have been permitted to leak at any point in time - - both areas were
accesible from the interior through access hatches on my '64.
>
> Break or wheel types?
>
By the '70s, electric brakes would have been standard, but on high level
coaches HyraVac Disc brakes were available or standard. In their day, these
brakes were state of the art and among the most effective on the market.
Today, the problem is that they are basically orphan hardware that has no
widespread repair/replacement part support - - they can be found but not as
readily as those for the moe typical Kelsy Hayes electrics. The HydraVacs
also require a connection to the vacuum system of the tow vehicle, and this
could cause problems with the modern computer controlled engines found in
many if not most modern vehicles. A number of listees have written of
converting their rigs from HydraVac discs to standard drum type
electrics - - cost can be quite a factor especially if done by a dealer.
According to the literature that came with my '64, four wheel electric
brakes were optional - - only the front axle had standard electric trailer
brakes. At some point in time, my '64 had trailer brakes added to the rear
axle. In addition, many of the early/mid 60s coaches may still have their
original equipment split rim wheels which are a near must replacement
intoday's market - - not a terribly expensive proposition - - steel wheels
are generally readily available from a knowledgeable tire store - - I
purchase mine from the local Good Year dealer with my new tires - - no
question about incompatability of wheels/tires/cpacities with this method as
the dealer did all of the measuring and ordering taking total responsibility
for insuring proper fit - - that was five years ago and I am still
completely satisfied.
> Center bath better?
In large part, this is a personal preference issue IMHO. By carefully
guarding against traveling with full holding tank(s) and avoiding mounting
anything to the rear bumper, the problem with tail droop can be avoided.
The rear bathroom is going to provide more generous accommodations with an
airy feel while the center/side bath relieves some of the concern about tail
sag, but at the sacrifice of the roominess of the rear bathroom. The rear
bedroom would provide increased privacy and possibly a bit more strech out
room than the center bedroom
>
> Anything else?
As you have probably read in posts on several ocassions. The cheapest
trailer may not be the most economical in the long run. My '64 was several
hundred to a bit more than 1,000 higer than the other 12 rigs that I looked
at, but it was in exceptionally good condition needing little more than new
tires and a new water pump to be ready for use. It gave me five years with
minimal repairs/restoration while I traveled to every International Rally
beginning with the 1998 International in Boise. This year, I have splurged
on seveal professional restoration projects on the trailer to keep it in
fine, usable condition - - but my restoration is with an eye toward use
rather than total authenticity.
>
> I am in Portland Oregon. If you have a Airstream for sale and are in my
> area (Oregon or Washington) drop me a line.
>
> Advice appreciated.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> jack
Good luck with your decision and hunt!
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI/VAC #6359
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 23:21:30 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
At 05:40 PM 10/4/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>So I take it the grey water is plumbed into the same holding tank as the
>blackwater?
Not exactly. The grey water is plumbed into a line that is Y-d
into the same external hose connection that the black water tank is. One
then either connects to the sewer or into an external tank (like those blue
totes), always leaving the blackwater valve closed. When you dump the
blackwater, and only then, you open the blackwater valve.
I've read here that in an emergency - like you had to operate
without an external tank or a sewer hookup - you could leave the blackwater
valve open, allowing the greywater to drain into the blackwater tank. I
never did this, because the blackwater tank doesn't have much capacity on
older trailers, and you have the very real danger that the awful stuff in
the blackwater tank could back up into your washwater water drains. Yuk!
At some rallies, but by no means all, you can put a cap on the
hose connector that has a place for a garden hose that's just long enough
to reach the center of the trailer; this drains the greywater onto the
ground. However, in many places, it's illegal.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 23:24:14 -0400
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Aux tank?
At 05:45 PM 10/4/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>>The fresh water
>>tanks were large 45 gal.
>
>So in the Airstream line, Airstream called the black water tank the "Aux"
>tank?
I don't think so, but it could be so. On my non-vintage 1995
Excella, the blackwater tank is labeled "Main" and the greywater one is
labeled "Aux." The freshwater tank is not part of that "grey/black"
system, and it's plumbing is separate.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 23:29:39 -0400
From: Thornton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: floor dry rot?
If it were only as easy as you descibed it!
The amount of work depends on where the rot is. I have had 3 Airstreams with
rotting/rotted wood flooring. They were all just one misplaced foot from
becoming a hole.
I have replaced one rear floor in my 65 Safari and am currently working on
replacing the rear floor on the 67 'bassador. Taking the floor out of the 67
was the easy part. It pretty much fell out after removing all the bath
fixtures. Next step is a trip to the welder for some frame repair.
If you can provide more info on where the rot is located we could provide more
info on the effort that will be required to repair it.
- Mike Thornton
j eric townsend wrote:
> >If you want a HUGE project and can get the trailer for <=$500...it
> >*might* be worth it.
>
> I assume the fix for this is lifting the body, inserting new plywood, and
> putting the body back on the frame?
> --
> J. Eric Townsend -- http://www.spies.com/jet
>
> Were you in USASSG/ACSI/MACV in Vietnam, 1967-1970? Drop me a line if so...
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 01:15:57 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 10/4/01 4:29:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 18:53:39 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: how to buy my first Airstream- Help!
>>
Droopy Butt fixing can be spotted if you look above the back bumper....you
will see some patches on the back skin. THIS should be an indication that
rods have been placed inside the unit to avert any further Sagging....
Um, I don't know how true that is that you can't find parts for older
units.....The year depends on the model style one likes....
Good Luck
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 06:33:04 -0700
From: Jack Honeycutt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Fresh and grey water capacity
At 09:18 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>My 73 Ambasador does not have a grey water tank, I think the '74s do.
So what happens to the water when you wash dishes or take a shower?
jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 09:53:10 -0400
From: "larry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
My 62 26' has black tank only ,original twirlit is removed and I use low
type porta potty,I'ts ashame because tank is perfect but brass valve drips
. .All my gray water flows out aft of the valve,on ground but I cant find cap
that fits to it to run hose from.Universal caps dont fit even the Thetford
cap I just bought doesn't!Any clue what size type??? Tent campers POd!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Honeycutt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: [VAC] Fresh and grey water capacity
> At 09:18 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >My 73 Ambasador does not have a grey water tank, I think the '74s do.
>
>
> So what happens to the water when you wash dishes or take a shower?
>
> jack
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 10:58:50 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Jack,
Shower and sink water runs onto the ground unless you are using a blue tank
or hooked up to sewer.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Honeycutt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 9:33 AM
Subject: [VAC] Fresh and grey water capacity
> At 09:18 PM 10/4/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >My 73 Ambasador does not have a grey water tank, I think the '74s do.
>
>
> So what happens to the water when you wash dishes or take a shower?
>
> jack
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 12:07:10 -0400
From: Jim Dunmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
Scott,
This is something that comes up from time to time; some folks feel that
"run it on the ground just like the tenters do" is OK, others feel that
grey water is akin to nuclear waste and must be put into a municipal
sewer.
As an FYI: we stayed in a couple of WV state parks on the way to the
Fall Escapade in Lewisburg, WV a couple of weeks ago. One had only 10
sites, seemingly catering to mostly tenters or folks with popups, as the
sites were very small. Each site had a fire ring, a flat area for the
tent, and a 4X4 post with a little shelf on it. On the ground below the
shelf was a wood frame with stone/gravel in it, and there was a sign on
the post saying "SUMP". The ones I observed were all right next to a
ditch/creek. It was obvious that this shelf was where you were to wash
dishes, and the water was to be dumped into the gravel "sump" so it
could be strained of the big chunks before going into the stream.
Based on this, I don't feel too bad about letting grey water run on the
ground in most areas. The major exception, IMO, would be where there are
many campers, week after week, causing the ground to become soaked. Or
on pavement, such as if you stay overnight at Camp WallyWorld.
Otherwise, the water will just go into the ground like it does from a
leach field, leaving a few food particles, etc. for the insects to
dispose of.
I'm not looking to start an argument, but if the State of WV feels it's
OK to dump wash water next to the creek, I'm not going to worry about
running it on the ground in most cases. When we attended A/S rallies, it
was common to see a 5-gallon bucket sitting under the drain fitting, but
I never saw any water in the bucket. Hmmmm.....
<<Jim>>
Scott Scheuermann wrote:
>
> Jack,
>
> Shower and sink water runs onto the ground unless you are using a blue tank
> or hooked up to sewer.
>
> Scott
>
--
<<http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer>>
<<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
<<lower SE Michigan, USA>>
<<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 12:13:07 -0700
From: jet <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Fresh and grey water capacity
>I'm not looking to start an argument, but if the State of WV feels it's
>OK to dump wash water next to the creek,
I've camped in a couple of places where dumping grey water on the
ground will get you a ticket from the local authorities. I honestly
don't know how they treated tent campers in those places, maybe they
figure backpackers aren't carrying a bottle of Dawn and a bunch of
other chemical cleaning supplies, so they don't bother the backpackers
Me, personally, I try not to dump anything on the ground I wouldn't
dump on my front doorstep. Granted, I wash my bicycle on my front
porch from time to time, so a bit of grease and dirt goes off into
the yard every now and again. :-)
I understand now, however, why so many of the used Airstreams I've
looked at don't have greywater tanks.
--
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 15:35:43 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Awning replacement?
Has anyone replaced the fabric on a Zip-Dee awning?
How hard was it to do? I have a 31' Airstream, so the awning is rather large.
How much did it cost?
Dave
__________________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey | E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Trying hard to recreate what's never been created...
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 14:49:32 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Wheel Wells cracks
After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked in
from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing tare
type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
suggestions would be appreciated.
Also, as a note, especially with the mid 70's trailers if you have not
pulled your rig in the rain on wet roads you better check the wheel wells
for cracks. I have had my trailer for over a year and have logged several
thousand miles with it but until the last trip none were in the rain or on
wet roads. I had no idea there was problem. Its a real mess to clean up,
luckily most of the water was in the closet and under the cabinets and
fridge.
Don Hardman
1976 Sovereign
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 16:01:14 -0400
From: "David W. Lowrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells cracks
At 02:49 PM 10/5/01 -0500, you wrote:
>After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked in
>from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
>suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing tare
>type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
>suggestions would be appreciated.
How about using fiberglass, they type they use for autobody repairs?
Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Dave Lowrey - [EMAIL PROTECTED]
WBCCI: 5074
1977 31' Sovereign International (center bath)
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Message Number: 21
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2001 18:17:20 -0400
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells cracks
Don, I wouldn't use tar which tends to dry out and crack. I think something
that remains flexible and doesn't dry up and crack is what I will be using
on my ' 68 Tradewind when I start on the exterior. I have already repaired
the damaged floor adjacent to the wheel wells where water got in over a long
period of time during the previous owership. I was thinking I'd probably
seal the cracks with Vulkem unless somebody tells me otherwise.
Jim Greene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 15:49
Subject: [VAC] Wheel Wells cracks
> After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked in
> from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
> suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing
tare
> type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
> suggestions would be appreciated.
>
> Also, as a note, especially with the mid 70's trailers if you have not
> pulled your rig in the rain on wet roads you better check the wheel wells
> for cracks. I have had my trailer for over a year and have logged several
> thousand miles with it but until the last trip none were in the rain or on
> wet roads. I had no idea there was problem. Its a real mess to clean up,
> luckily most of the water was in the closet and under the cabinets and
> fridge.
>
> Don Hardman
> 1976 Sovereign
>
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Message Number: 22
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2001 18:56:49 -0400
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Wheel Wells cracks
At 02:49 PM 10/5/01 -0500, Don Hardman wrote:
>After my last trip in the A/S in a rain storm I found water had leaked in
>from some cracks in the outer wheel well lining. What would be the
>suggestion for correcting this problem. My thought is to use a roofing tare
>type material spread with several layers over the cracks. Any other
>suggestions would be appreciated.
I would consider using something like Eternabond
http://www.eternabond.com/ . Great stuff with very good adhesive qualities.
--
Chris Bryant
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End of VACList-Digest #83
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