The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 130 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Paint job on 1984 E30 318 Where to buy E-34 M-Tech springs??? Re: Wandering 95 M3 <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Re: [uuc] <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? CarFax Request Any last minute tips?? Re: Any last minute tips?? Re: E30 brakes Re: E34 Suspension and Bilstein Shocks Re: E34 5xx Suspension Recommendations-how about M3? Re: Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please!
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 10:11:53 -0700 From: Michael Holbrook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Paint job on 1984 E30 318 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If I had an 84 318 worth about $2k at most, I would not hesitate to get a Maaco or similar paint job. The key is for you (the owner) to remove as much trim as possible and do as much sanding, filling, etc as you are capable. If you remove the trim, bumpers, lights, roundels, etc, and mask anything that you don't want painted, you will probably get a fairly decent result. Then put new roundels and perhaps some of the trim when you put the car back together. You will get overspray in the door jams so remove anything in there you don't want painted as well. When you get it back, an hour of polishing in the door jams will make it look real good. Clean thoroughly anything you take off before you put it back on. Should not cost more than about $600 for a decent result. One more thing. Don't change the color of the car. That is just asking for trouble. Mike Holbrook Spring Valley, CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 13:18:58 -0400 From: Dana Earl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Where to buy E-34 M-Tech springs??? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have been folllowing the discussions regarding springs for E34 models and based on what I have read am interested in the factory sport springs. Any recommendations on where to buy and what the part numbers for front and rear are?? If I follow through with this I will have a set of H&Rs installed by previous owner for sale, too low and too stiff for the quality of roads I have to deal with daily. TIA Dana Earl 94 530i ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 10:25:18 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wandering 95 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Mike, do you have the current alignment settings? If the alignment was done on a computerized rack (normal these days), you should have a print-out showing how your settings compare to stock. Assuming that you find that your bushings and ball joints are good, a little more toe-in should reduce the directional instability. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >From: "Mike Katsoris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Wandering 95 M3 >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >My '95 M3 with 68K on it is wandering over almost every road imperfection >and bump. I'm running Fikse FM20's 8.5x17 all around with 245/40 SO3's. >My steering rack was replaced along with the tierods at which time the ball >joints were pronounced good. This was done by JMK BMW along with the >requisite alignment, which was about 3 months and 5K ago. The car felt very >good upon return with its pinpoint steering accuracy restored. The car >always felt a little darty from day one but I nevered minded it. I like a >car that makes you drive it. The wider wheels and tires exacerbated it a >little, but was worth the trade-off considering the more planted feel that >came with it. I know the 96's went to a staggered tire setup to help dial >in more understeer and eliminate a little of the dartiness some people >complained about. >In the past month the problem seemed to get a lot worse. The shocks are >fairly new sport Bilsteins. The only culprits I can think of are either the >front shock mounts and/or the lower control arm bushings. Its hard to tell >by yanking on the wheels with the car off the ground. Is there some >definitive test? I'd appreciate any recommendations as to the best >replacements if it does turn out to be one or both that have worn out. The >rear shock mounts are new E46 convertible mounts. > >Mike Katsoris #13294 > >2001 330Ci >1995 M3 >1976 2002 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 13:59:35 -0400 From: Jay Frankel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just refitted my summer wheels with new tires and I am getting a little rubbing at the rear under compression. The car 99 E36 M3 45,000 miles Fiske wheels - stock diameter, width and offset The car has about 20,000 miles on the stock Dunlop 8000 (245/40-17) and they never rubbed. I just installed stock size Bridgestone Potenza PP S-03 and I am getting a little rubbing on the rear fender lip which never occurred with the previous tires. So my question is do I have a problem: 1) Is the Bridgestone tire a "squarer" profile - I know a lot of people use these tires, have there been any rubbing issues? 2) Could my rear struts being going bad 3) Could it be relate to the strut mounts? It is a minor enough issue where I could just have my fender rolled a little to solve the problem, but it would seem this is an indication of another problem because I do not think the stock size should rub. Are the tolerances that close for the rear tires on the M3? ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 11:15:13 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [uuc] <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Tire sizes for different tires are ball park figures only. Case in point I switched from 255 Kuhmo victoracers to 255 Michelin Sport Cups. The front tires rubbed so bad they wouldn't turn ;-) in your case http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Dunlop&model=SP+Sport+9000 couldn't find the 8000s - tread width 8.8" http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Bridgestone&model=Potenza+S-03+P ole+Position tread width 9.0" looks like you need a roller ;-) Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jay Frankel Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 11:00 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [uuc] [UUC] <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? I just refitted my summer wheels with new tires and I am getting a little rubbing at the rear under compression. The car 99 E36 M3 45,000 miles Fiske wheels - stock diameter, width and offset The car has about 20,000 miles on the stock Dunlop 8000 (245/40-17) and they never rubbed. I just installed stock size Bridgestone Potenza PP S-03 and I am getting a little rubbing on the rear fender lip which never occurred with the previous tires. So my question is do I have a problem: 1) Is the Bridgestone tire a "squarer" profile - I know a lot of people use these tires, have there been any rubbing issues? 2) Could my rear struts being going bad 3) Could it be relate to the strut mounts? It is a minor enough issue where I could just have my fender rolled a little to solve the problem, but it would seem this is an indication of another problem because I do not think the stock size should rub. Are the tolerances that close for the rear tires on the M3? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 12:37:50 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:59 AM 4/9/04, Jay Frankel talked about: >I just refitted my summer wheels with new tires and I am getting a little >rubbing at the rear under compression. >The car >99 E36 M3 >45,000 miles >Fiske wheels - stock diameter, width and offset > >The car has about 20,000 miles on the stock Dunlop 8000 (245/40-17) and >they never rubbed. I just installed stock size Bridgestone Potenza PP S-03 >and I am getting a little rubbing on the rear fender lip which never >occurred with the previous tires. > >So my question is do I have a problem: > >1) Is the Bridgestone tire a "squarer" profile - I know a lot of people >use these tires, have there been any rubbing issues? It's possible that the Bridgestone's are a squarer profile, but I ran a set on my '98 M3 sedan for a couple of years (245/40/17 on all four corners), and had no rubbing issues either front or rear. >2) Could my rear struts being going bad >3) Could it be relate to the strut mounts? It wouldn't hurt to look into those things. But a stock size tire on a stock 8.5", 41mm offset wheel shouldn't rub, IME (I've run OE Michelin MXX3s, Pilot Sports, Yokohama AVS Sports, and Bridgestone SO-3s on the car). Cheers, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 14:08:51 -0400 From: "Rob Levinson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Two things: 1) Yes, the S-03 is cut a bit thicker in a given size than the relatively round-shouldered SP8000. 2) How old are your Fikse wheels? There is a chance they may have slightly different offset front and rear which could cause rubbing with that tire size. You could do a simple and minor rear fender lip rolling using a standard fender roller tool. KMS rents these, call Brett at 440-338-1650. - Rob ---- Original Message ---- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [UUC] <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? >I just refitted my summer wheels with new tires and I am getting a >little rubbing at the rear under compression. >The car >99 E36 M3 >45,000 miles >Fiske wheels - stock diameter, width and offset > >The car has about 20,000 miles on the stock Dunlop 8000 (245/40-17) >and >they never rubbed. I just installed stock size Bridgestone Potenza PP > >S-03 and I am getting a little rubbing on the rear fender lip which >never occurred with the previous tires. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 23:17:25 -0400 From: Jay Frankel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36 M3> Tire rub - why???? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Based on the feedback on the tire sizes, I think I will see my local friendly body shop for the minor fender adjustment. Thanks to all of you for your input. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:10:53 -0400 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: CarFax Request Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It looks like the fleet may be growing, and I'd greatly appreciate a quick CarFax report on VIN: WBACB3327SFE23194 Thanks! Gerry O'Connor Manhattan Beach, CA BMW CCA - LA / SAE / NMA '88 535is / '83 633CSi / '72 2002tii ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 12:32:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Any last minute tips?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Greetings all, I'll be installing a UUC short shifter this weekend in my 95 325i and was wondering if any of you had any last minute tips or tricks to help it go smoothly?? Thanks!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 16:34:15 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Any last minute tips?? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you didn't get one with the UUC shifter, buy another "bitch clip" BMW part No 25 11 1 221 849 (Bearing Bolt). It is usually pretty hard to get it off and inevitably ends up breaking. My dealership keeps them in stock, but that won't help you if they are closed. Just my $.02. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 -----Original Message----- From: Mr [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 2:33 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Any last minute tips?? Greetings all, I'll be installing a UUC short shifter this weekend in my 95 325i and was wondering if any of you had any last minute tips or tricks to help it go smoothly?? Thanks!! Manuel Paredes 95 325i __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 15:49:22 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 brakes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The story is pushing the brake piston into territory that is not used in daily braking can cause leaks. However if your master cylinder is that bad, it should be replaced anyway. I've never ruined a master cylinder by pump and hold bleeding, but I'm not saying it can't be ruined that way. Gary Derian > I was just preparing to replace the fluid in my 1985 318i as proactive > maintenance by having someone pour fluid in the reservoir as needed while > someone else pumped the brakes while I bleed each cylinder one by one, > singing "pump and hold" to the tune of Mary Had a Little Lamb. What is > there about the bleeding by the pump method that damages the cylinder. > Since I won't be introducing any bubbles and my brakes are fine right now I > may not have to, for instance, pump to the floor or whatever thing it is > that damages the cylinder. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Stan Jackson Jr. > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 12:17 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] E30 brakes > > > Joe, > > I would definitely start by bleeding the brakes. Just be certain NOT to use > the pedal method. Use a pressure bleeder or perhaps a vacuum bleeder. I > have one of Steve D'G.'s ( which is awesome), but I understand he is no > longer making them? > > Using the pedal to bleed the brakes is a sure way to cause an older master > cylinder to start allowing some blowby/leakage. In fact, that may be > exactly what you have now. In the 2-3 leaking master cylinders which I > experienced, none of them allowed the pedal to sink to the floor. They > allowed just enough leakage for the pedal to feel real crappy, mushy, and > low, but not enough to fail that typical test. > > Stan > > > > Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2004 13:54:58 -0400 (EDT) > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > Now that everything is feel so much better in terms of the way the car > > drives and feels, I am now noticing other little things, like the brake > > pedal feel. > > > > My brakes work fine, they just seem, mushy. There is a fair bit of pedal > > travel before they firm up, but once they do, they are fully capable of > > locking up the tires, the pedal doesn't sink if you hold it, and I can't > > push hard enough to make it hit the floor... but if you release it and hit > > them a second time, they firm up much faster and feel much better. > > > > So any ideas as to where to start? Would flushing the brake fluid help? I > > have no idea how old the fluid is. Given the previous history of the car, > it > > may never have been changed. > > > > -- Joe > > > > -- > > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 16:55:02 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 Suspension and Bilstein Shocks Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Those are E30 pads. The upper is available in 9mm (31-33-1-128-522) and 3mm thickness (31-33-1-128-523). They are not stackable. The E34 uses the 9mm pad. Gary Derian > Regarding the front drop with BavAuto and Sachs kits as well as others, BMW > makes 3 different spring perch pads. One is very thin, the most common is > about 1/2" thick and the third is quite a bit thicker. I'm sure someone > can chime in about the exact thickness of these pads. I believe they are > stackable. BMW uses these to "adjust" ride height. Thus, if you go to a > BavAuto spring and do not want a 2" drop in the front, before you start, > obtain the thickest spring perch pad. These pads cannot be installed > except by removing the strut completely, compressing the spring and > removing the topnut since the spring sits on it. > > It is always a good idea to find someone who has a car with the suspension > you are thinking about and get a ride/drive in it and measure it for yourself. > > Mike Holbrook > Spring Valley, CA > 89 535im > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 21:36:06 -0400 From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E34 5xx Suspension Recommendations-how about M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am about to install a set of Bilstein Sports on a 1999 M3 with OEM springs. Should I cut the internal bumpstops also? Seems like it would not hurt even if it was not needed. MikeG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 10:17 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] E34 5xx Suspension Recommendations > Exactly, I had the same problem with Bilstein sports. The travel limit is > due to the internal bump stop, not a mechanical metal to metal limit, so > cutting the stop gives one all the travel needed. > > Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 00:15:10 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Replacing Airbag Controller - 2nd request please! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's a 4 minute job. However, before buying a used unit, have your VIN checked at the dealer to see if it qualifies for SI 72 01 96, which was a recall to replace the SRS control module. As Marco has already said, it's under the rear seat, and it most likely will need to be reprogrammed to your vehicle. Additionally, it may require some wiring modifications, as per the SI mentioned above. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > I'm moving and already packed my Bentley manual... if the instructions > were even in there! > > But I got SRS error codes 1 & 17 on my 94 325i, which should be the > Airbag Controller. The airbag light stays on and there are no error > codes for the seatbelt tensioner. I think this should be the same > procedure as for an E36 M3. > > On the assumption that the problem really is the airbag controller, I > found a used, but supposedly working controller. Can anyone give me > instructions or point me to a link for instructions on replacing this? > I seem to recall seeing somewhere that they said it might have to be > replaced by the dealer and not a DIY job. Or do I just disconnect the > battery and replace the controller? > > Any experienced guidance is appreciated. > > Thanks, > Dave Kelley --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.655 / Virus Database: 420 - Release Date: 4/8/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
