The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 173 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Re: Insurance question
Re: Insurance question
Re E 30 Camber
Re: Re E 30 Camber
26 mile service 'test drive' ...What the hell?
Re: 26 mile service 'test drive' ...What the hell?
Duplicate messages
Re: Duplicate messages
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 11:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Greetings all,
I purchased a new valve cover gasket kit and was going
to change it out this weekend. Is there anything else
I should change while I'm doing this job? Any tips,
tricks, or suggestions? TIA!!
Manuel Paredes
95 325i lots o'mods!!
L.A. BMWCCA
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 15:52:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Make sure you have some high temp, non-silicone gasket sealent for the key spots at
the back and
front of the gasket. Think I got the Permatex Blue (IRC)...
Careful with the back fastener on the inboard side of the engine. If you drop it,
you'll probably
need to go to the store and buy a replacement (ask me how I know).
Remember to leave the oil filler cover on while the valve cover is off. Don't want any
random bits
falling into the engine (dirt, screws, etc).
It's much easier to work with the coil packs if you disconnect the wires before you
pull them. I
usually leave them connected when I do the plugs, but it's easy to disconnect the
wires. Just lift
the metal retaining clips straight up.
The injector rail takes a little coaxing to come up.
The valve cover itself can also be a little sticky when you get the fasteners off.
Just pry gently,
it'll pop loose.
a cordless drill and extension for your 12 mm socket helps to speed off all of the
bolts. Don't
worry if you only get the inner bolt and not the rubber inserts. The cover removal
doean't require
that the rubber inserts come off.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 15:52:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Make sure you have some high temp, non-silicone gasket sealent for the key spots at
the back and
front of the gasket. Think I got the Permatex Blue (IRC)...
Careful with the back fastener on the inboard side of the engine. If you drop it,
you'll probably
need to go to the store and buy a replacement (ask me how I know).
Remember to leave the oil filler cover on while the valve cover is off. Don't want any
random bits
falling into the engine (dirt, screws, etc).
It's much easier to work with the coil packs if you disconnect the wires before you
pull them. I
usually leave them connected when I do the plugs, but it's easy to disconnect the
wires. Just lift
the metal retaining clips straight up.
The injector rail takes a little coaxing to come up.
The valve cover itself can also be a little sticky when you get the fasteners off.
Just pry gently,
it'll pop loose.
a cordless drill and extension for your 12 mm socket helps to speed off all of the
bolts. Don't
worry if you only get the inner bolt and not the rubber inserts. The cover removal
doean't require
that the rubber inserts come off.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 15:52:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Make sure you have some high temp, non-silicone gasket sealent for the key spots at
the back and
front of the gasket. Think I got the Permatex Blue (IRC)...
Careful with the back fastener on the inboard side of the engine. If you drop it,
you'll probably
need to go to the store and buy a replacement (ask me how I know).
Remember to leave the oil filler cover on while the valve cover is off. Don't want any
random bits
falling into the engine (dirt, screws, etc).
It's much easier to work with the coil packs if you disconnect the wires before you
pull them. I
usually leave them connected when I do the plugs, but it's easy to disconnect the
wires. Just lift
the metal retaining clips straight up.
The injector rail takes a little coaxing to come up.
The valve cover itself can also be a little sticky when you get the fasteners off.
Just pry gently,
it'll pop loose.
a cordless drill and extension for your 12 mm socket helps to speed off all of the
bolts. Don't
worry if you only get the inner bolt and not the rubber inserts. The cover removal
doean't require
that the rubber inserts come off.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 13:22:19 -0700
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I've removed 3 oil pans recently on M50/52 S50 engines recently and in every
one I've found nuts/bolts/screws in the pan. Do the Germans just throw that
stuff in there to cause consternation on my part? ;-)
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 12:52 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] Changing valve cover gasket (e36)
Make sure you have some high temp, non-silicone gasket sealent for the key
spots at the back and
front of the gasket. Think I got the Permatex Blue (IRC)...
Careful with the back fastener on the inboard side of the engine. If you
drop it, you'll probably
need to go to the store and buy a replacement (ask me how I know).
Remember to leave the oil filler cover on while the valve cover is off.
Don't want any random bits
falling into the engine (dirt, screws, etc).
It's much easier to work with the coil packs if you disconnect the wires
before you pull them. I
usually leave them connected when I do the plugs, but it's easy to
disconnect the wires. Just lift
the metal retaining clips straight up.
The injector rail takes a little coaxing to come up.
The valve cover itself can also be a little sticky when you get the
fasteners off. Just pry gently,
it'll pop loose.
a cordless drill and extension for your 12 mm socket helps to speed off all
of the bolts. Don't
worry if you only get the inner bolt and not the rubber inserts. The cover
removal doean't require
that the rubber inserts come off.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k [For Sale]
E36 M3/4, 49k
2002 Audi AR
Vienna, VA
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 13:22:08 -0700
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Insurance question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Let me ask the insurance experts and adjusters in this forum. If a moronic driver cuts
you off "accidentally" and you were able to swerve to avoid her but in the process hit
the median and damage your car, can you get her for hit and run?
I am thinking now that I should have just let her hit me instead, at least I can give
chase and get the plates and it would be a lot more fun. This autox and DE experience
is making me better at avoiding moving objects but those stationary ones are hard to
miss. I love running over cones now. ;-)
Anybody?
Pingger
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 14:02:47 -0700
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Insurance question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Gordo,
Depends on the state. I'm not an insurance adjustor but did have a
situation like your's. In CA, if you get, for instance as happened to
me, curb rash on a rim and a bent control arm when avoiding an uninsured
wandering cellphone talker turning a streetcorner, you can file a claim
for damages and your insurance can not find you at fault. It helped in
establishing the 'not at fault' determination that I filed a police
report right after the incident and got the identity of the other driver
or car.
Barry
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Let me ask the insurance experts and adjusters in this forum. If a moronic driver
>cuts you off "accidentally" and you were able to swerve to avoid her but in the
>process hit the median and damage your car, can you get her for hit and run?
>I am thinking now that I should have just let her hit me instead, at least I can give
>chase and get the plates and it would be a lot more fun. This autox and DE experience
>is making me better at avoiding moving objects but those stationary ones are hard to
>miss. I love running over cones now. ;-)
>Anybody?Pingger
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 07 May 2004 16:46:46 -0400
From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re E 30 Camber
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
At 02:20 PM 5/7/04,Gary wrote:
>Negative camber needs less toe. Reduce toe to about 1/32 total and rotate
>tires every oil change, rear cross to front, front straight to rear.
Gary, any idea how many turns on the steering tie rod it would take to get
1/6" of travel? Is toe in measured by the centerline of the axle? It
would seem like it would take less than 1/16" of travel on the tie rod to
net that much toe, as the tie rod ends are forward of the axles. It is easy
enough to calculate the travel by thread pitch, I guess then we'd need to
know how far the tie rod is offset from the axle?
Thanks, David
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 17:04:07 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Re E 30 Camber
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Not much, certainly less than 1/2 a turn.
Toe can be an angle, a distance at the tread, or distance measured at the
rim. On my E34, I have settled on 1mm toe in measured at the tread. This
means each tire is toed in 0.5 mm (about 0.02 inches).
I do my own alignment at home using a trammel rod (a wooden stick with
triangles nailed to the ends, looks like: |\______/|) and a tape measure.
1mm is as close as I can measure, but I can do it consistently.
Less toe means less tire wear and more response, but it can lead to
twitchiness.
Gary Derian
> At 02:20 PM 5/7/04,Gary wrote:
> >Negative camber needs less toe. Reduce toe to about 1/32 total and
rotate
> >tires every oil change, rear cross to front, front straight to rear.
>
>
> Gary, any idea how many turns on the steering tie rod it would take to get
> 1/6" of travel? Is toe in measured by the centerline of the axle? It
> would seem like it would take less than 1/16" of travel on the tie rod to
> net that much toe, as the tie rod ends are forward of the axles. It is
easy
> enough to calculate the travel by thread pitch, I guess then we'd need to
> know how far the tie rod is offset from the axle?
>
> Thanks, David
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 17:05:05 -0700
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 26 mile service 'test drive' ...What the hell?
Message-ID:
<!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA2VNHLbh/j0itK2gALJAeysKAAAAQAAAAtNaX6ZUaQkKHPBFNX+/[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>
Group,
Just picked my car up from the dealer. There were 26 miles on the car from
the mileage in which I left it.
"What was worked-on?" I'm getting there...
They are trying to tell me that the 26 miles that were put on the car, while
it was there, were 'necessary' to validate the repair work. What did they
do? An engine? No. Transmission? No. Driveshaft? No. Subframe? No.
Suspension? No.
The rear windshield wiper/washer wasn't spraying on the back window.
The drivers side door gasket was replaced because it was leaking a little
water in.
I've asked that the service manager call me back. This request comes after
I wasn't satisfied with the service writer informing me that this is 'the
norm' and 'common'.
Please...Someone give me a good, well-thought-out, explanation as to how
these repairs necessitated 26 road miles?
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 20:27:04 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 26 mile service 'test drive' ...What the hell?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have never had that bad of an experience with a BMW dealer but I got my Audi A4 back
from the dealer one time with an additional 100 miles on the odometer, very loud rap
music from the stereo when I turned the ignition key, and about two miles from the
dealership the driver's seat fell over backwards as the car was moving in traffic --
the entire slider mechanism had been destroyed by someone and then jury-rigged. Sorry
about the long sentence, I still get worked up when I think about it. The car was
there to get the bumper re-sprayed as part of the deal I negotiated when I bought it
two weeks earlier. Luckily I didn't hit anything and turned around and drove back to
pick up my rental car again, yes, I had to rent a car. I think that it's safe to say
that I was a little upset, they repaired the damage to the car but their customer
service was never repaired. Unfortunately I had to deal with them frequently during
the time that I owned the car, it was a POS, IMHO.
I don't think that bad customer service in car dealerships is all that rare.
Regards
Jamie Howton
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Marino [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Fri 5/7/2004 7:05 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc:
Subject: [UUC] 26 mile service 'test drive' ...What the hell?
Group,
Just picked my car up from the dealer. There were 26 miles on the car from
the mileage in which I left it.
"What was worked-on?" I'm getting there...
They are trying to tell me that the 26 miles that were put on the car, while
it was there, were 'necessary' to validate the repair work. What did they
do? An engine? No. Transmission? No. Driveshaft? No. Subframe? No.
Suspension? No.
The rear windshield wiper/washer wasn't spraying on the back window.
The drivers side door gasket was replaced because it was leaking a little
water in.
I've asked that the service manager call me back. This request comes after
I wasn't satisfied with the service writer informing me that this is 'the
norm' and 'common'.
Please...Someone give me a good, well-thought-out, explanation as to how
these repairs necessitated 26 road miles?
Chris
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
[Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.]
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 18:09:17 -0700
From: "John Coffin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Duplicate messages
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm getting duplicate message from uucdigest.com. I've checked the mail
logs of my mail gateway and have verified that the uuc mail relay
(host.bardicsolutions.net) is sending it multiple times.
Anyone else seeing this today?
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 May 2004 21:24:48 -0400
From: "Bill Matthews" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Duplicate messages
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'm not getting Dups of the mail messages. Maybe your mail server is having
a problem and sending bardicsolutons.net a response that intitiates an
unnecessary re-send?
My highly technical solution to this type of annoying Internet problem is to
wait. It will either get better or worse. In either case a solution is
self-fulfilling or forthcoming.
Bill Matthews
"A common criticism of the Internet is that it is dominated by the
crude, the uninformed, the immature, the smug, the untalented, the
repetitious, the pathetic, the hostile, the deluded, the
self-righteous, and the shrill. This criticism overlooks the fact
that the Internet offers - for the savvy individual who knows
where to look - the tasteless and the borderline insane."
- Dave Barry, "Dave Barry in Cyberspace"
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Coffin
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 9:09 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: [UUC] Duplicate messages
>
>
> I'm getting duplicate message from uucdigest.com. I've checked the mail
> logs of my mail gateway and have verified that the uuc mail relay
> (host.bardicsolutions.net) is sending it multiple times.
>
> Anyone else seeing this today?
>
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages)
**********
