The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 246 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: 95 M3 HVAC Blower Speed Problem
Re: 95 M3 HVAC Blower Speed Problem
95 M3 Timing Chain Tensioner
Re: 95 M3 Timing Chain Tensioner
E36 drive axle
Re: Headlight upgrade for E36 M3
Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
fart sensor
BMW CS alloy wheels for sale on ebay.de
Brake assembly lube
Dead 1995 E36 M3
Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 11:38:24 -0700
From: "Chris Blumenthal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 95 M3 HVAC Blower Speed Problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
In Digest Volume 2 : Issue 243, I posted:
> The variable low speed setting on the HVAC blower control of my
> new-to-me '95 M3 doesn't work properly. I am referring to the
> setting on
> the speed dial in the 6-12 o'clock range, before you get to
> the 1-2-3-4
> speed positions. If I am not mistaken, this setting is supposed to
> provide a variable, low speed adjustment below the "1" speed setting.
>
> The failure mode appears to be that, when the variable speed setting
> goes bad, the control defaults to the "1" speed level. I say this
> because I had another '95 M3 for many years, and the HVAC
> blower control
> failed in exactly same way... at first the variable speed
> control worked
> fine, then failed and the variable speed control went away in favor of
> speed "1," all the way from 6 o'clock up to the "1" position.
>
> Has anyone else had this problem and found a solution? Bad R-pack,
> perhaps, or is there some kind of rheostat built into the control?
No one responded. Doesn't anyone have at least a theory about this? Has
anyone else experienced this problem, or am I just a voice crying in the
ETM wilderness?
Chris Blumenthal
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 19:18:32 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 95 M3 HVAC Blower Speed Problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>No one responded. Doesn't anyone have at least a theory about this? Has
>>anyone else experienced this problem, or am I just a voice crying in the
>>ETM wilderness?
Sorry, I have no idea. I would guess it's the control module for the HVAC system.
Mine is still OK at 96K miles (95 M3) so I can't say for sure.
Regards
Jamie Howton
[Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.]
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 12:00:21 -0700
From: "Chris Blumenthal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 95 M3 Timing Chain Tensioner
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
OK, here is another problem that might be more interesting. My new-to-me
95 M3 with 64K miles has a lower timing chain rattle that is
particularly prominent at around 1800 RPM. I know, they all do that, but
this noise is louder than that in my first 95 M3, and is definitely a
timing chain noise- not the VANOS marbles-in-a-can noise (BTDT with our
'97 M3) or from the cam chain area. I noticed that I had the original
style tensioner, so after reviewing the volumes of discussion on this
subject on this digest and other fora, I decided to pick up one of the
new style tensioners (11 31 1 405 081) and give it a try.
After installing it, things were much worse- there was a pronounced
noise at idle, and pretty much through the lower RPM ranges. I though I
had installed it incorrectly, so I pulled the new tensioner and
reinstalled the old one; noise back to "normal." I then put the new
tensioner back in, being careful to make sure that it was seated
properly against the guide rail. Bad noise again. I can feel spring
pressure when installing the new-style unit (but not nearly as much as
with the old style...). How can this be? Is it possible to install the
tensioner incorrectly? It seems so unlikely, but could the new tensioner
be defective?
I would be grateful to receive any answers, theories, speculation, WAGs,
etc.
Chris Blumenthal
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 19:34:31 -0500
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 95 M3 Timing Chain Tensioner
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>properly against the guide rail. Bad noise again. I can feel spring
>>pressure when installing the new-style unit (but not nearly as much as
>>with the old style...). How can this be? Is it possible to install the
>>tensioner incorrectly? It seems so unlikely, but could the new tensioner
>>be defective?
I replaced mine and it made a marked difference for the better. When you install it
you need to make sure that the chain is lined up with the slot in the end of the
tensioner so that the chain rides inside the channel. If you have the tensioner end
rotated 90 degrees so that the chain rides across the very tips of the tensioner I
imagine it would sound pretty loud. I don't know if it's possible to install it like
that but it's the only mistake that I can imagine is possible with that job.
Something else that comes to mind is maybe the upper chain tensioner (PN 11 31 1 726
502) but that, is a total WAG.
Regards
Jamie Howton
[Attachment of type application/ms-tnef removed.]
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 17:13:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 drive axle
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Group,
I *finally* got the bolt head shaved off on the axle
and the axle came loose. The remainder of the screw
came out very easily; I unscrewed it with my fingers.
Now I am upon another problem: the outer portion of
the axle (splined section) won't come out of the hub
-- is it supposed to be in there so tight? I tried
banging on it with a sledge and a wood stick, and then
just the sledge itself to no avail. Is it loctited
in? I keep running into one problem after another
with this...just consoling myself that I am probably
saving quite a few hundred bucks from a shop doing
this.
Do I need a hub puller?
Advice greatly appreciated,
Brian
'93 325
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 17:53:19 -0700
From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Headlight upgrade for E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
At 11:08 AM 6/25/2004, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>So Jim says:
>
>" Then, I
>could solder wires to the connectors, insulate with heat shrink tubing,
>seal it up with JB Weld and silicone caulk. "
>
>Proving once again that in a combination nuclear holocaust and millennium
>flood, Jim will still have headlights. ; ^ )
I've spent way too much time in my life troubleshooting electrical problems
in other people's poor wiring to cut corners in the wiring that I
do. Trying to figure out which crappy improperly crimped crimp connector
is making the trailer running lights flicker on and off is just not my idea
of a good time. Or which poorly crimped non-watertight connection in the
audio wiring is shorting out when it rains, causing the amplifier to blow
fuses. So yeah, I solder most of my connections, and provide mechanical
support and watertight insulation with shrink tubing and/or JB Weld or
caulk. When I use crimp connectors, I use a good ratchet-style crimper,
not one of those crappy ones with all the wire stripping holes that you get
at Radio Shack.
But if your idea of a good time is sitting by the side of the road in the
dark, poking wires and hoping that your headlights turn back on, more power
to you...
Jim Ochi
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 19:35:09 -0700
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Herman Chan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
"Honey, we're out of BBQ sauce. What should we do?"
"Well, I've got some brake assembly lube that should be pretty tasty!"
I mean, is anyone actually tasting this stuff? Where I come from,
whether this stuff is safe for internal use is not a big concern.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snip>
>* Permatex Ultra Brake Lube - supposed to be safe for internal use,
>but the MSDS shows it's 90-95% "synthetic oil" so I don't know if
>it's truly rubber safe.
<snip>
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:22:58 -0700
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Not necessarily. I have disassembled many calipers (many of them
>E30 calipers), none of them have any form of notch. For that
>matter, it is my opinion that the, since the piston can be turned
>and nothing prevents the piston from turning, that this notch may
>not have anything to do with
>bleeding the brakes.
My E36 calipers do have a small notch on the internal end of the
piston, about 1/4" wide.
However, it appeared to be less than 1mm deep, so unless the piston
is fully retracted against the inner wall of the caliper, I doubt it
makes any difference. Even if the pistons are in contact with brand
new pads, they extend out far enough to probably render it moot.
The instructions that came with my ATE rebuild kits specify that
pistons that have an external 20 degree chamfer should be oriented
toward the leading edge of the pad, but do no mention the internal
notch at all. Nor do the procedures in the BMW TIS.
During reassembly, I did consider that it might be better to orient
the notch at the top, but while futzing around getting the dust boot
to seat, etc., it probably ended up in some other orientation.
The above applies to the E36, so with the E30 YMMV.
>Do you have any formal support for your comment? Any pictures of
>pistons with the notch that you mention? I am curious since I have
>never seen it.
I have a picture that shows one angle, but no place to host it.
Herman
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 21:49:40 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: fart sensor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I know we joked about the air quality sensor before, but today I
actually dug up some information on it. While I had the fan shroud out
of my e39 528, I took a peek at the air quality sensor. I couldn't
resist popping the case open to see what could possibly be inside.
Staring back at me was a clearly marked Figaro TGS 822 organic solvent
detector. Here's the spec sheet:
http://www.figarosensor.com/products/822pdf.pdf
I immediately noticed that this sensor is sensitive to methane! So
conceivably if the cattle truck in front of you is sufficiently loaded
with flatulent bovines, your BMW could flap the AC into recirc mode for
you. Not only that, but it's even more sensitive to ethanol, so you may
also be denied any vapors from a neary distillery.
I never thought that my BMW had such a nose.
--
"It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
-Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 07:45:02 +0000
From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: BMW CS alloy wheels for sale on ebay.de
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
As usual, no one I know, am commissioned to, recommend, endorse, deny, etc.
Go to auction
7907848120 for a nice set of the 6 x 14" CS alloy wheels (5 wheels & 4
caps). Wheels are in Germany, so you'll have to cut your deal with him and
DHL/Fedex.
Gregory in Geneva
P.S. Looking for 02 alloy wheels (turbo & other styles)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 11:29:37 +0000
From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Brake assembly lube
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To all,
For those looking for brake assembly lube (to rebuild internal hydraulics),
many recommend Dow Corning 111. There is also a high temp version, DC 112.
I have friends who use this for assembling machinery with O rings and it's
great. I don't know (and this is my question) if this is chemically
compatible with brake seals and brake fluid.
If you want to use a good product, this is a sure bet, look for the Ate
Bremszylinder-Paste sold in 180 gram tubes. Ate part number is
03.9902-0501.2. It is also fine for any car using DOT 3. 4 or 5.1 fluids,
but NOT LMH (for the Citroen fans out there).
I still have the equivalent product from Girling, which works fine for
reassembly needs. Unless you do a LOT of cars at home, a tube will last you
about 10 years.
Gregory in Geneva
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 12:27:28 -0400
From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Dead 1995 E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I had a problem last night that continues on into today. I was driving my 95 M3,
build 7/95, and after crossing some railroad tracks that cross the road, the engine
stumbled once. Went about another 0.1 mile and it stumbles again. That makes me
start to worry.
About a mile later, approaching a stoplight, it dies. The engine will turn over, it
just will not fire off. I push the car (when traffic clears) to the gas station
nearby, pull out a Peake reader, and read the codes. The reader displays a x'1A'
(decimal 26). The table with the reader says that is a Control Unit Supply code, and
later when I check the Bentley manual, it is not listed. Actually only 4 digit codes
are listed. Ugh. I had the car towed home (it was 11:30pm).
Now it appears to be worse. The Peake reader will power up when connected to the test
port, but if I try to read the failure codes, it just flashes 'E'. Also, I am now not
getting the 'check engine' light during key on bulb test.
Next I disconnected the battery for a minute and then re-connected. Cool, have check
engine light during bulb test. Try to start the engine, and it fires to life for
about 30 seconds, then dies again. Once more, check engine light is non-functional.
Disconnect the battery again, wait, reconnect...no check engine light.
Ok, so where do I start? Find someone with a similar build date M3 and start swapping
parts? DME failure? Any clues?
Thanks in advance..
-Tom
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 2004 10:48:52 -0700
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Tom Melton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Dead 1995 E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Re: [UUC] Dead 1995 E36 M3:
Just to eliminate the possibility, check if your air boot from the hfm
to throttle body has come loose. Your scenario of symptoms could be
caused by this.
Barry
Tom Melton wrote:
>crossing some railroad tracks that cross the road, the engine stumbled once. Went
>about another 0.1 mile and it stumbles again. That makes me start to worry.About a
>mile later, approaching a stoplight, it dies. The engine will turn over, it just
>will not fire off. I push the car (when traffic clears) to the gas station nearby,
>pull out a Peake reader, and read the codes. The reader displays a x'1A' (decimal
>26). The table with the reader says that is a Control Unit Supply code, and later
>when I check the Bentley manual, it is not listed. Actually only 4 digit codes are
>listed. Ugh. I had the car towed home (it was 11:30pm).
>Now it appears to be worse. The Peake reader will power up when connected to the
>test port, but if I try to read the failure codes, it just flashes 'E'. Also, I am
>now not getting the 'check engine' light during key on bulb test.Next I disconnected
>the battery for a minute and then re-connected. Cool, have check engine light during
>bulb test. Try to start the engine, and it fires to life for about 30 seconds, then
>dies again. Once more, check engine light is non-functional. Disconnect the battery
>again, wait, reconnect...no check engine light. Ok, so where do I start? Find
>someone with a similar build date M3 and start swapping parts? DME failure? Any
>clues? Thanks in advance..-Tom
>
>
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End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages)
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