The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 245 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: stripped torx Re: Headlight upgrade for E36 M3 Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Re: Do I need a new clutch (e36 M3)? Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding E36 lower control arm Re: E36 lower control arm E28 535ia tranmission light NEEDED Electrical Guru for Fuse/Wiper Motor Issue Re: NEEDED Electrical Guru for Fuse/Wiper Motor Issue
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 13:40:40 -0400 From: "David A. Leonard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: stripped torx Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 12:20 PM 6/25/04, you wrote: >In my > > attempt to loosen the torx bolts that hold the axle to > > the differential so I can replace it, the small > > 'teeth' on the bolt have become bent and the socket no > > longer grips the bolt well enough to loosen the > > monstrously tight bolt. I know it's not supposed to > > be that tight, but I was unsuccessful trying to get > > the bolt off when it did have teeth -- so much so that > > with one wheel on the ground and this axle off the > > ground, the limited slip would, well, slip when I > > turned the bolt. I just gave it another shot a bit I'd grind the head off the bolt with a welding grinder, remove the rest, then remove the bolt with vice grips once you undo the flange. Dave Leonard ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 11:08:14 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Headlight upgrade for E36 M3 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So Jim says: " Then, I could solder wires to the connectors, insulate with heat shrink tubing, seal it up with JB Weld and silicone caulk. " Proving once again that in a combination nuclear holocaust and millennium flood, Jim will still have headlights. ; ^ ) -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 14:37:32 -0400 From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't forget to leave the piston in the same orientation as removed.(assuming it's never been apart before) There's a little notch in the rear of the piston to aid in bleeding. Mitch > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > if necessary. Thanks. > > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 12:25:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not necessarily. I have disassembled many calipers (many of them E30 calipers), none of them have any form of notch. For that matter, it is my opinion that the, since the piston can be turned and nothing prevents the piston from turning, that this notch may not have anything to do with bleeding the brakes. Do you have any formal support for your comment? Any pictures of pistons with the notch that you mention? I am curious since I have never seen it. Regards, Rich --- Mitchell Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Don't forget to leave the piston in the same orientation as > removed.(assuming it's never been apart before) There's a little notch in > the rear of the piston to aid in bleeding. > > Mitch > > > > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > > if necessary. Thanks. > > > > Matt Weimer > > Hoosier Chapter --- Mitchell Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Don't forget to leave the piston in the same orientation as > removed.(assuming it's never been apart before) There's a little notch in > the rear of the piston to aid in bleeding. > > Mitch > > > > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > > if necessary. Thanks. > > > > Matt Weimer > > Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 01:12:27 -0400 From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> _______ | | \______ Here's the idea in section view....it's ~ 1/4" long chamfer...notch is always in the up position on the ones I've disassembled. I can snap some pics tomorrow. I have ATE front / rear and Girling front spares. Mitch Rich wrote: > Not necessarily. I have disassembled many calipers (many of them E30 calipers), none of them have > any form of notch. For that matter, it is my opinion that the, since the piston can be turned > and nothing prevents the piston from turning, that this notch may not have anything to do with > bleeding the brakes. > > Do you have any formal support for your comment? Any pictures of pistons with the notch that you > mention? I am curious since I have never seen it. > > Regards, > > Rich > > --- Mitchell Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Don't forget to leave the piston in the same orientation as > > removed.(assuming it's never been apart before) There's a little notch in > > the rear of the piston to aid in bleeding. > > > > Mitch > > > > > > > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > > > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > > > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > > > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > > > if necessary. Thanks. > > > > > > Matt Weimer > > > Hoosier Chapter > > --- Mitchell Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Don't forget to leave the piston in the same orientation as > > removed.(assuming it's never been apart before) There's a little notch in > > the rear of the piston to aid in bleeding. > > > > Mitch > > > > > > > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > > > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > > > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > > > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > > > if necessary. Thanks. > > > > > > Matt Weimer > > > Hoosier Chapter > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 20:09:09 -0700 From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides >the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone >(Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some >sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid >if necessary. Thanks. The options are: * ATE brake paste - impossible to get in the U.S. One intrepid lister has imported some from the U.K., but at great cost. * AGS Sil-Glyde - available at NAPA or other better auto parts stores for about $7 a tube. If you don't want to buy a tube, Autozone has little packets. * Dow Corning 111 - available at Grainger; $8.50 per tube. * Lucas/Girling red rubber grease - available from Brit parts houses, but I didn't pursue it. * Motorcraft Silicone Brake Grease - I didn't pursue this one. * Permatex Ultra Brake Lube - supposed to be safe for internal use, but the MSDS shows it's 90-95% "synthetic oil" so I don't know if it's truly rubber safe. The DC 111 grease is good for up to 400F, Sil-Glyde 600F. I'm not a chemist, nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, but the MSDS sheets are available for most of the above if you wish to explore. Any of them would probably be fine. I would strongly recommend using grease instead of brake fluid. It makes everything a snap. The pistons can be pushed back in with only hand pressure. Herman ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 15:02:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Do I need a new clutch (e36 M3)? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jeff, In my E36 325 (189K), when cold, I get a jerky start as well. It does take a very conscious effort to keep it smooth. I don't exactly know what the cause of my problem is, I guess it's just that everything is cold and the clutch compound acts a bit differently when cold??? I had my clutch replaced a bit over a year ago, so I don't think that my clutch is going south, although I guess it is a possibility. Also, while at parking lot speeds, the car doesn't seem to roll smoothly if I hold the pedal steady at low RPM, it feels like a jerky rolling movement. All these things are little annoyances to me, and I don't exactly know what is causing them (twisted driveshaft...crankshaft..? I have no clue), but maybe the fact I have some similar issues will help you pinpoint your problem....maybe... ;) Brian '93 325 --- "Batt, Jeff (MED)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello All, > > I have a 1995 M3 (5spd) with about 85K miles on it. > During the past few > weeks, it's been harder to start the car moving > smoothly from a > stop...the clutch seems to 'grab' a lot more than it > used to at the > engagement point, causing a jerky start. I get a > slightly less but > similar jerky engagement on the 1-2 shift. If I > really try to let the > clutch out slowly, I can get a smooth start, but I > never had to do that > before. Additionally, we've had a lot of rain in > the last few weeks and > it's subtle, but I'd swear I can feel the rear > wheels 'slipping' more > than I ever remember them slipping when I'm going > over a bump and the > roads are wet. This could also be somewhat due to > my original (and > likely tired) suspension - new struts/shocks/rear > trailer arm bushings > are on order and will be installed this summer. > > I'm not the original owner, but I'm pretty sure it's > the original > clutch. Additionally, I did replace the slave > cylinder about 8 months > ago, but everything has been working well until the > last couple of > weeks. I was thinking maybe I should try to bleed > the system?, but > thought I would ask the panel of experts. Does this > sound like a clutch > starting to fail? Or something else? > > Thanks, Jeff > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 18:07:25 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Brake Caliper Rebuilding Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't use brake fluid as lube. It absorbs moisture and some of it will be outside the seal. Use either special brake assembly grease or Dow Corning 111. The DC grease is useful for many other things so that gets my vote. Gary Derian > Group, > > I think this was covered a week or so ago but I unfortunately did not > pay enough attention to the thread. > > What are folks using as assembly lube for brake caliper rebuilds besides > the recommended Ate grease? I know you can use brake fluid and someone > (Gary?) may have mentioned Dow 111 silicon? I would prefer to use some > sort of grease since it is less messy but I will resort to brake fluid > if necessary. Thanks. > > Matt Weimer > Hoosier Chapter ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 21:13:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 lower control arm Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ARRGH...seems my car is conspiring against me to never let me drive it again after my mishap last week. I still haven't been able to get the bolt off of the axle; I picked up a set of "Bolt-Out" stripped bolt sockets at Sears, but they just chewed up the bolt more and didn't seem to loosen anything. While taking a break on the axle bolt, I started loosening up the lower control arm inner bolt. Got it loose just fine, but now I see the bolt is too long to pull it all the way out -- the differential gets in the way. Anyone do this themselves before? Do I have to cut off this bolt too...? I just want to drive again! :( Brian '93 325i __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2004 21:37:32 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 lower control arm Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I thought that too the first time I did it. The bolt will come out. It's been a while since I've done it though ( 6 months). I know you don't have to cut it off ;-) loosen up the diff bolts, the ears and the bottom diff carrier one, and that will allow the diff to move around a bit, hopefully enough that by using a pry bar under the diff between the diff carrier that you can wiggle the bolt out. Be careful though the diff weighs a ton, so don't loosen the rear ear bolts up too much. patience grasshopper. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Friday, June 25, 2004 9:13 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: [UUC] E36 lower control arm ARRGH...seems my car is conspiring against me to never let me drive it again after my mishap last week. I still haven't been able to get the bolt off of the axle; I picked up a set of "Bolt-Out" stripped bolt sockets at Sears, but they just chewed up the bolt more and didn't seem to loosen anything. While taking a break on the axle bolt, I started loosening up the lower control arm inner bolt. Got it loose just fine, but now I see the bolt is too long to pull it all the way out -- the differential gets in the way. Anyone do this themselves before? Do I have to cut off this bolt too...? I just want to drive again! :( Brian '93 325i __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 09:46:37 -0500 From: "tom dotzler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E28 535ia tranmission light Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My wifes 86 535ia warning light indicating a circuit fault with the transmission came on last week allowing only 3rd gear in forward motion. I went out to testdrive the car, fooled with the rotary mode selector switch, moved the selectorback and forth. When I put the car in reverse for a test drive I noticed the light was out. I drove the and shifting was normal. She then did her 150 mile round trip commute to work and after four days the symptom returned. I repeated what I had done last time but the light stays on and the car only has 3rd gear which Bentley manual says is SOP for safeguarding the transmission when its in this mode. Anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting at home? I have meters and test lights, etc.?? Tom Dotzler ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 12:41:56 -0400 From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: NEEDED Electrical Guru for Fuse/Wiper Motor Issue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> My '84 318i E30 has a wiper electrical problem: Here's the scenario: The ignition on in the aux stage running all electrical circuits. At this point the engine is not running. The wipers run in all speeds, the washer works fine for any length of time. The minute the engine is cranked and starts the 30 amp wiper fuse blows. Put a new one in while the engine is running it will hold for 3-4 minutes then blow wipers on or off. No other fuses in the box ever blow? Any Ideas what might be going on? The Box is fed right from the battery positive with a cable which looks fine? I have not taken the FUSE box out to review the whole thing inside of it to see if I have a short. Any help and direction would be appreciated. Thanks Art 1984 318iE30 ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 26 Jun 2004 14:37:25 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Art Ream) Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: NEEDED Electrical Guru for Fuse/Wiper Motor Issue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From Art Ream > >My '84 318i E30 has a wiper electrical problem: > >Here's the scenario: > > The ignition on in the aux stage running all electrical circuits. At this >point the engine is not running. The wipers run in all speeds, the washer >works fine for any length of time. > > The minute the engine is cranked and starts the 30 amp wiper fuse blows. >Put a new one in while the engine is running it will hold for 3-4 minutes >then blow wipers on or off. > > No other fuses in the box ever blow? Any Ideas what might be going on? >The Box is fed right from the battery positive with a cable which looks >fine? I have not taken the FUSE box out to review the whole thing inside of >it to see if I have a short. > > Any help and direction would be appreciated. > >Thanks >Art >1984 318iE30 > Ok, a quick survey of the books indicates that the 30A fuse in location #5 runs the wipers and washer only. This is good, as it means that we don't have to chase all over the car for the fault. I am a little uncertain of one of the symptoms you mentioned. Does the fuse blow when you start the car regardless of the wipers being on, or if you leave the wipers off and start the car it is fine until you turn the wipers on? Regardless, the fact that the fuse doesn't blow with the engine not running, blows instantly on starting, and lasts 3-4 minutes after the start, tells me that you have a fault that is drawing less than 30A when on battery, more than 30A on start, and about 30A when running. I am guessing that if you measure the system voltage while running your tests, you will find that you have about 12V on battery, get a spike of about 16V (maybe higher) on start, and get about 14V while running. While that might explain the fuse blowing behavior, it doesn't help with the main problem. The central point of your troubles is the wiper control relay. All power enters there and all switches and controls run through here. Pull the module and re-run your tests. The only thing that should run with the module out is the washer motor. If your fuses still blow, then the fault is likely with the washer motor or the associated wiring. With the module out, you can test the wiper motor by measuring the resistance from 53 to ground for slow and 53b to ground for high speed. I don't know what the resistances are supposed to be, but less than .4 ohm and you have a winner. You can test the wiper switch by measureing the resistance of 85 to ground for the wash switch, 15b for intermitent wipe, f1 for slow, and f2 for fast. These should all read very nearly 0 ohms to ground when activated (these tests are all done power off, by the way). If f1 shows continuity to ground without activating the switch, then it is possible that the park switch in the wiper motor is stuck. I suspect that you are going to pass all these tests, at which point, it is time to suspect the wiper control module. If you can find another E30 owner nearby, you could try swapping a known working unit into your car and see if it fixes it. I suspect the module, because the fault appears to be voltage dependent. If your battery isn't dying overnight, then the fault only occurs when the wipers are commanded on. The fuse holds when the voltage is lower, but fails when you get to about 14V or so. This screams solid state failure to me. That module is full of solid state stuff. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
