The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 839 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: HELP: Hurricane Katrina problem Re: HELP: Hurricane Katrina problem <E21> Market for the older stuff Re: <E21> Market for the older stuff wheel bearing wear and specs Re: wheel bearing wear and specs Re: wheel bearing wear and specs Re: BMW 1 Deer 0 or State Farm claim help needed..... Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 07:59:41 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: HELP: Hurricane Katrina problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 10/19/05 1:01 AM, "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The only data that can persuade the insurance underwriters would be actual > recent sale prices of comparable cars. I realize that the application of logic to insurance disputes is probably a losing proposition, but didn't the original post say that the owner had just purchased his E30 M3? So isn't the price he paid best evidence of this car's value? Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:54:32 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: HELP: Hurricane Katrina problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil Maller wrote: > Bob Sutterfield wrote: > > The only data that can persuade the insurance underwriters > > would be actual recent sale prices of comparable cars. > > I realize that the application of logic to insurance disputes > is probably a losing proposition, but didn't the original post > say that the owner had just purchased his E30 M3? So isn't the > price he paid best evidence of this car's value? In their eyes, that data point is evidence only that a foolish purchaser paid too much. In our conversations (is that a nice term for it?) the adjuster said the price I had recently paid for my pristine one-owner E21 was "unreasonable other than for the emotional value, which they can't compensate." -- Bob Sutterfield '86 E30 325e bronzitbeige-met '91 E30 318iS alpinweiß '83 E21 320i opalgrün-met (RIP, parting out) '93 T4 EV MV Weekender Arktisches Weiß BMWCCA #169277 GGC/RMC ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 10:59:16 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E21> Market for the older stuff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Bob's email prompted me to send this email. I'm in the mode of thinking about selling my '77 320i. I have had plans to recondition it back to new, but lately I'm thinking to sell it. There just doesn't seem to be a market for the old E21's. Even the dismantlers aren't interested. Anybody know why this is? The other direction is to get a piece of land with a barn and store it till the time is right. Thanks, Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:35:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: <E21> Market for the older stuff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >There just doesn't seem to be a > market > for the old E21's. Even the dismantlers aren't interested. Anybody > know why this is? Yikes loaded question. In my opinion, they're not that pretty to look at, most of them nowadays are rust buckets, they don't have the appeal that the 2002 has. Performance wise they're pretty wimpy. Not sure how reliable they are but my '78 320i required a lot of maintenance and since I didn't know sh!t from shinola at the time it was pretty expensive to pay a mechanic in the Seattle area to fix it. Of course mine was a frankenbimmer with an E12 3.0L motor in it which come to think of it was probably the worst six cylinder to stick in there. I would've preferred a 2.5L M20. Still I enjoyed driving it and with Tokicos and KYBs and who knows what shorter springs it actually rode pretty well. Handled like crap though. The E21 Recaro seats were the best part about that car. :-) Carlos x78 320i (330i) <--apparently it was brought back to life here in Detroit, rescued from the junkyard that I gave it away to. __________________________________ Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 14:02:13 -0500 From: "Roy T. Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: wheel bearing wear and specs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I recently replaced the rear wheel bearings on my car and I was amazed that both the rear wheel bearings were going out at exactly the same time. Talk about quality control, that is manufacturing to spec on an extreme level. I was thinking if both the rears were going bad at the same time then the fronts cant be far off. I was wondering if I should plan on replacing them (front hub assembly w/bearing) now rather than in the cold winter months. 30 below is no time to be working on the car. What is the average wear interval on front wheel bearings? I have 133,000 miles right now with no signs of any failure. What are most people getting for milage on an E36 for front wheel bearings? As an aside I noticed that both the rear wheel bearings were failing after replacing one bad one. I had a rumble coming from the back and after replacing one bearing I wanted to make sure everything was installed correctly before I replaced the next. It was my first time replacing the bearings. Anyway I took the car out for a spin and realized I still had a rumble in the back but from the opposite side this time and much quieter. I could not hear the rumble of the second (passenger) bearing until I replaced the drive side bearing. I am sure it was a coincidince that both were failing at the same time but I was still impressed. It takes a very good manufacturing quality control program to have 2 items fail consistantly espescially over the course of 133,000 miles of wear. But now that both are replaced there is no noise and everything seems perfect again. I was just amazed by the BMW manufacturing spec even thought it was probabbly random luck. Roy Collins 96 328i - 133,000 miles and 2 new rear bearings... noise free again ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 12:22:39 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: wheel bearing wear and specs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, October 19, 2005 12:02 pm, Roy T. Collins said: > What is the average wear interval on front wheel bearings? I have > 133,000 miles right now with no signs of any failure. What are most > people getting for milage on an E36 for front wheel bearings? As a data point, I recently replaced the front wheel bearings on the M3 at about 160K miles. No noticeable issues/noise/etc, more of a preventative thing (I used a gift certificate from a Club Race to get 4 front bearings - the race car NEEDED them :-)) The M3 saw ~10,000 track miles back in the day, and at one point I had to replace one of the rear wheel bearings due to rumbling. The other rear one is still original. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 20:33:43 -0400 From: "marshall lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Roy T. Collins'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: wheel bearing wear and specs Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rear bearings last a long long time on a street car. Mine were at 175k when I replaced them. Fronts last a long time too on a street car. 150k miles on my street car. Race car, whole nuther story. Fronts every season, rears every other season. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Roy T. Collins Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 2:02 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] wheel bearing wear and specs I recently replaced the rear wheel bearings on my car and I was amazed that both the rear wheel bearings were going out at exactly the same time. Talk about quality control, that is manufacturing to spec on an extreme level. I was thinking if both the rears were going bad at the same time then the fronts cant be far off. I was wondering if I should plan on replacing them (front hub assembly w/bearing) now rather than in the cold winter months. 30 below is no time to be working on the car. What is the average wear interval on front wheel bearings? I have 133,000 miles right now with no signs of any failure. What are most people getting for milage on an E36 for front wheel bearings? As an aside I noticed that both the rear wheel bearings were failing after replacing one bad one. I had a rumble coming from the back and after replacing one bearing I wanted to make sure everything was installed correctly before I replaced the next. It was my first time replacing the bearings. Anyway I took the car out for a spin and realized I still had a rumble in the back but from the opposite side this time and much quieter. I could not hear the rumble of the second (passenger) bearing until I replaced the drive side bearing. I am sure it was a coincidince that both were failing at the same time but I was still impressed. It takes a very good manufacturing quality control program to have 2 items fail consistantly espescially over the course of 133,000 miles of wear. But now that both are replaced there is no noise and everything seems perfect again. I was just amazed by the BMW manufacturing spec even thought it was probabbly random luck. Roy Collins 96 328i - 133,000 miles and 2 new rear bearings... noise free again Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2005 21:09:02 -0500 From: neil <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: BMW 1 Deer 0 or State Farm claim help needed..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The others were correct in most of what they said, except that the insurance company is not entitled to the cage, etc. (mods). Well, that could even be partially correct, depending upon your state's laws. Of course, it goes without saying, so I'll say it anyhow - your mileage may vary, but the company is entitled to whatever was installed on the car on the date of loss, ASSuming that you expect them to pay for the whatever. As a company, State Farm does not care as much that you added that stuff as the fact that it is there on the date of loss. I'm sure that most companies take a similar position. The value of a car is determined by the state of the car as of the date it was damaged. This is, of course, excepting any illegal mod (removal of the airbag, window tint on the front windows, no cat, and so on), which is not covered anyhow. IF it is totaled, you most likely have several options, again, depending upon your state's laws; let them have figure the value as it is (with the mods); let them figure the value in stock (without the mods) or incomplete form (with or without the stock parts); keep the car; let them take the whole car; keep some of the parts but let them take the rest. This is beside the option of ORS (Owner Retained Salvage, which most people incorrectly refer to as buying it back - in most cases, the insurance co never takes possession of the car or title, only records the transaction with the secretary of state or BMV, so they never own the car, and title is never tagged as salvage). There may be some states in which ORS is not an option, or comes with a catch, such as not allowing ORS w/o a salvage title, not allowing ORS ever, or in the case of IL, not allowing ORS if the car is 7 or less years old. I dare not give any advice, as that invariably starts a flame war with those who'd like to see you stick it to the man, aside from saying keep an OBjective view on the proceedings and keep the dialog open and flowing. The best way to make sure that you don't get what you want or think you deserve is to demand stuff, piss off the other guy and/or throw threats around. Neil State Farm auto claim rep for 6 years (until last month - now a Michigan auto underwriter) ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 08:07:25 -0500 From: "Batt, Jeff \(GE Healthcare\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello all, I have a question regarding the common "top of gas tank" leak: My leak (in a sept '94 built) '95 M3 seems to have returned (it's on the pass side). At first I figured that I just can't put a hose clamp on correctly, but after replacing the 2 hose clamps and the 5" diam rubber gasket (that goes between the tank and the pump top) - and actually replacing both twice - I have a new suspicion. After watching my tank (Filling it up and then by driving with the tank covers off and watching for leaks at every stoplight or pulling over)...it seems to be leaking from one or both of the electrical connections (around the plastic housings/connectors) that plug into the top of the pump cover. Has anyone seen this before? Is there an easy fix (epoxy on the inside or something) or should I look at replacing the plastic pump top? Thanks, Jeff -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Bassett Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 12:37 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] gas smell - 95 M3 On Wed, April 6, 2005 6:46 am, Batt, Jeff \(GE Healthcare\) said: > I believe there are 3 possible leak points that could cause this > (please correct me if I'm wrong) - 1) inlet hose clamp, 2) outlet hose > clamp, 3) gasket to top of tank. Yep. If the hose clamps are the original crimp-type, remove them and replace them with the screw-type hose clamps. > Assuming it is this gasket...does anyone have a part number/name Replacing this is also a good idea. Use this site to look up the part number: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(9 messages) **********
