The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 841 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  <e34> radiator problems
  Re: <e34> radiator problems
  Re: <e34> radiator problems
  Re: <e34> radiator problems
  <OT> Wowza
  Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
  Re: <E36> M3 chain noise?
  E36 door hinge lube
  Re: E36 door hinge lube

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Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 15:46:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <e34> radiator problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

My 1993 525i has a radiator leak.  With an adhoc
pressure test, I can see it leaking about mid-way
along the vertical joint on the driver's side where
the plastic and aluminum come together.  In searching
the archives I've seen this discussed, but no answer
to the question of whether this type of leak may be
repairable or not.

So, can this radiator be repaired?

John

end

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 19:53:07 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "John Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <e34> radiator problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Replace it.

Regards,

Rich

> -----Original Message-----
> 
> My 1993 525i has a radiator leak.  With an adhoc
> pressure test, I can see it leaking about mid-way
> along the vertical joint on the driver's side where
> the plastic and aluminum come together.  In searching
> the archives I've seen this discussed, but no answer
> to the question of whether this type of leak may be
> repairable or not.
> 
> So, can this radiator be repaired?
> 
> John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 20:48:07 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "John Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <e34> radiator problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The tank is crimped onto the core.  It can be repaired: uncrimp, change 
gasket, re-crimp, but considering the history of E34 radiator failures, this 
is a good time to replace it.

Gary Derian


> My 1993 525i has a radiator leak.  With an adhoc
> pressure test, I can see it leaking about mid-way
> along the vertical joint on the driver's side where
> the plastic and aluminum come together.  In searching
> the archives I've seen this discussed, but no answer
> to the question of whether this type of leak may be
> repairable or not.
>
> So, can this radiator be repaired?
>
> John
>
> end
>
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 22:43:08 -0400
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Cc: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "John Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <e34> radiator problems
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Boy, that was a long winded answer for Gary D.  "Replace it" would have
worked.

:-)

Anything is repairable (well, almost), but economics dictate otherwise at
times.  E34 radiators are cheap, and they sure don't last forever... :-)

So, for ~$200 or so, replace it.

Regards,

Rich

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> The tank is crimped onto the core.  It can be repaired: uncrimp, change
> gasket, re-crimp, but considering the history of E34 radiator
> failures, this
> is a good time to replace it.
>
> Gary Derian
>
>
> > My 1993 525i has a radiator leak.  With an adhoc
> > pressure test, I can see it leaking about mid-way
> > along the vertical joint on the driver's side where
> > the plastic and aluminum come together.  In searching
> > the archives I've seen this discussed, but no answer
> > to the question of whether this type of leak may be
> > repairable or not.
> >
> > So, can this radiator be repaired?


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 15:35:29 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <OT> Wowza
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


The digest breatheren seem to have a bottomless wealth of knowledge and
experience........ so who then can answer the question of who that babe is
currently being featured on the Mercury TV ads?

-Kevin
'06 horndog



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 16:25:29 -0700
From: "Curtis A. Ingraham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: gas smell - 95 M3 question
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Sounds like the connector pin got loose because it overheated and 
melted the plastic housing.  The heating was likely caused by a 
loose electrical connection on that pin.  The melting of the plastic 
may have made the connection worse, causing more heating.  You get 
the idea.  If you repair this, be very sure you fix the electrical 
connection.

Curt Ingraham

-----------------

Jeff Batt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Thanks for the replies all....I actually found the leak...I removed the
fuel pump from the tank last night and found that one of the 4
electrical connectors looks slightly melted (and is brown in color) and
the pin connector that is supposed to be molded into the pin hole is
actually in there loosely enough to see light (and thus allow gas)
through it.
It's a little scary that this looks to be burned or melted...but judging
from the gas smell issues I've had, I would say it happened at least 6
months...and more likely years...ago (six months was the first time I
noticed gas smell - but that was a bad hose clamp).
I priced a new pump assy (everything but the pump) and found one for
$160...on the other hand, there seems to be enough of the plastic there
to easily epoxy the pin permanently into place.  Not sure which road
I'll take yet...the epoxy seems easy, but things burning in my gas tank
is a little disconcerting.
Thanks again, Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 16:43:30 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: <E36> M3 chain noise?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi Brian,

I replaced my primary timing chain tensioner a couple of years ago and
it did away with 90% of the "VANOS" noise.  I replaced the serpentine
belt pulleys and tensioners and that did away with the rest of the
noise, my engine is quiet and rattle free despite its very hard life
during the last couple of years on the track.

Regards

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 17:19:06 -0400
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E36 door hinge lube
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

All four of the doors on my 328i require a large amount of effort to close.

I need to lube the hinge pins but can't see how to get grease into the 
joint.

Anyone?

TIA

Ed

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2005 18:44:36 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Ed MacVaugh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E36 door hinge lube
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

More likely the door checks need lube.  Paint a little grease on the edges, 
not the top and bottom.

Gary Derian


> All four of the doors on my 328i require a large amount of effort to 
> close.
>
> I need to lube the hinge pins but can't see how to get grease into the 
> joint.
>
> Anyone?
>
> TIA
>
> Ed
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
> 



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