The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 238 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E36 Fan Speed Low Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Decisions, decisions Re: Decisions, decisions Re: Decisions, decisions Last try, anyone have a 235/40/17 Pirelli P-Zero M&S? E36 Brake Question Re: E36 Brake Question Re: E36 Brake Question
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 22:30:03 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Fan Speed Low Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Probably a chopper circuit and power transistors. Gary Derian > 99M3 - I've noticed that occasionally the blower (HVAC) fan won't go full > speed. Everything else is normal. After a while it speeds up. I'm not all > that familiar with the automatic climate systems - is there still a blower > resistor pack in there? Normally when they fail you lose the lower speeds, > not the high speeds, and anyway this seems to be a more > continuously-variable setup. I'm aware of the "capacitor" fix but the > articles I've seen on that refer to that fix as a solution to a different > problem. Any other ideas? > > Thanks > Dave Swingle > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 19:44:27 -0700 From: "Brewster Fong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Scott, According to the guys on one of E34 boards, the 750i control arm bushing has a green plastic insert and supposedly is liquid-filled. Several of the guys on the E34 board have complained that their "750i bushing" didn't last longer than a couple of years/10k-15k miles and have gone either to M5 bushings or urethane. I asked if they really got a 750i bushing as the OEM is supposedly made by Boge, which I think maybe different than the ones made by Sach (same company?), Febi and Meyle. The E34 M5 control arm bushing is supposely all rubber, but a harder rubber material (durometer?). Interestingly, there's a LA part shop that sells the lemforder control arms with either the 750i bushing or M5 bushing pressed in. I'm thinking of getting a set from them. Brewster ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 21:50:31 -0700 From: "Michael Lapinskas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello Scott- I saved this email last year about the E34 M5 vs. E32 bushings from Neil Deshpande : Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 07:56:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Urethane Bushings. Russ: The E32 750 bushings are tuned, IIRC. What this means is that at the tuned frequency (55mph-generated, more than likely) they are quite good. Not so much elsewhere. The M5 bushings isn't tuned to the same extent, but harder (as per Gary Derian's report earlier) so they hold the wheels in place better during cornering loads (static-ish) as opposed to the dynamic/cyclical loading of a shimmy. Each is good at a different thing. For a well-reconditioned suspension, the M5 bushing is the way to go. For shimmy-suppression, the 750 bushings may be better. The M5 bushings is more durable. Neil Deshpande 92 M5 - M5, then 750, now M5 ----------------------------- Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 09:11:04 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Brett, I have a couple of follow-up questions on the thrust rod bushings. (Assuming I still want our '93 525i after the head comes off for head gasket replacement and I find out if there is any other bad news...) Will E32 750i bushings fit the E34 525i thrust rods? If so, what are the differences between them vs the M5 bushings you recommended for Brewster's 535i? Different performance characteristics? Durability? Thanks, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 00:21:11 -0400 >From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: Brewster Fong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Cc: [email protected] >Subject: Re: does strut mounts need to be replaced in E34 535i? >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I rarely see BMW strut mounts fail. I'd just go ahead and re-use them >unless you see cracking in the rubber (open the hood and look) >Use E34 M5 bushings on the thrust rods, not E32 750. > >Brett Anderson >KMS-Koala Motorsport ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 21:11:55 -0700 From: "Cyrus Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Dave Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dave et al, I was under the impression that most people shy away from cars with accident damage. That doesn't seem to be the case judging from the responses. I'll confirm whether there was frame damage to the car. Cyrus On 8/22/06, Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Monday 21 August 2006 10:13 pm, Cyrus Liu wrote: > > One accident (rear-ended a minivan) which probably makes it > > suitable only for track duty or for fun around town. > > Why is that? Is the chassis tweaked? > > Dave > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 21:16:06 -0700 From: "Cyrus Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got a Yahoo album of the car at http://new.photos.yahoo.com/cyrusyliu/album/576460762307079013 Apologies for the inconvenience. Cyrus Drove home the "new" used 525i today... On 8/23/06, Cyrus Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Dave et al, > > I was under the impression that most people shy away > from cars with accident damage. That doesn't seem to > be the case judging from the responses. > > I'll confirm whether there was frame damage to the car. > > Cyrus > > On 8/22/06, Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > On Monday 21 August 2006 10:13 pm, Cyrus Liu wrote: > > > One accident (rear-ended a minivan) which probably makes it > > > suitable only for track duty or for fun around town. > > > > Why is that? Is the chassis tweaked? > > > > Dave > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2006 22:52:29 -0700 From: "Cyrus Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: FS: 1990 325is (SF Bay Area) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Rich: I rear-ended the minivan while we were waiting at a red light. The light turned green and I went, but the minivan didn't. If only I paid attention to the brake lights... Cyrus On 8/23/06, Rich Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On 8/24/06, Cyrus Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Dave et al, > > > > I was under the impression that most people shy away > > from cars with accident damage. That doesn't seem to > > be the case judging from the responses. > > > > Depends, was that minivan rear ending the 325is at 5 mph, or 35 mph? Makes a > big difference. > > :-) > > The pics look fine although that doesn't say much. Looks familiar. > > Regards, > > Rich - 1990 325is in sterlingsilber with 16" Alpina wheels although never > rear ended. > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 08:48:44 -0400 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'911/993/996'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'The FerrariList'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Decisions, decisions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So... Sigh. Need some input from the boys (and girls) on this one. My "daily driver" for the last, oh, 6 years or so has been an E38 BMW 740iL, 1995. I've gotten it up to 163k miles, mostly reliable. The usual E38 problems, all addressed. Runs great, but its time is drawing near, especially as someone (not moi) managed to rear end a truck yesterday with it. Cosmetic damage, but probably $1500 worth. Dang, too bad, as I loooooooove(d) this car. So, what do I do? 1. Fix it and keep driving it until it blows up. 2. Dump it for whatever it'll fetch (any ideas?), and buy one of the following. For a "daily driver", I would like a "biggish" sedan, as I'd much prefer to go on trips in it with my two young daughters and all their stuff in a sedan (or wagon) than the big SUV or the minivan. 2A. 1999-2001 E38 BMW 740i SPORT. Asking prices seem to range between $10k-$24k, with mileage between 75k-133k miles. Upside - I love the 740i sport. I'd make sure that all of the known problem areas are addressed, or else take a reserve for it. Downside is that these are getting a bit old, and miles are getting higher. 2B. E39 M5. Between $23k-$40k, mileage all over. Upside - hey, it's an M5! Downside - wow, potential maintenance and repair costs are scary. I've already spent way too much on those friggin' Eyetaliano beasts, so really not interested in adding another delicate beast to the fleet. 2C. Brand new Dodge Magnum R/T. $28k-ish. Upside - hey, 340 hp Hemi! Possibly the Charger instead, but why not get the added utility of a wagon too? (no, not the 350 hp Charger Daytona package, a little too garish for my taste, methinks). Decent fuel economy. Fair bit of interior room (not quite 740iL, but close to 740i I think), lots of room in the back, great performance, new car warranty. Downside - not much, aside from the cost and, well, it's a Dodge. How dependable is it? Depreciation is gonna hurt? 2D. Brand new Dodge Magnum SRT-8. $35k-ish. Upside - hey, 425 hp Hemi! REAL performance. Warranty, room, looks pretty cool too. Downside - fairly horrendous fuel economy (no variable displacement in SRT version, so big mileage hit, grrr). And what will probably be a deal killer for me: the $2100 gas guzzler tax. YOWWWWWWWWWWWZA!!!!!!! 2E. Brand new Toyota Avalon. $27k-ish. Upside - relatively fast, fairly luxurious, and will run 200k miles with nothing but oil changes. Bullet proof. Downside - FWD, and, well, it's a Toyota sedan. If only they (or Honda) made a RWD equivalent, like a competitor to the Charger/300C/Magnum, and I'd be the first in line. 3. Get rid of the Bimmer, and just use the wife's 996 as a daily driver. No room for kids, but way cool ride. Could put snow tires on the spare set of rims (currently running slicks for track outings), and take out PFC-97 race pads and install OEM pads. Kinda shame to put the mileage on it (only 43k miles right now), but the thing has been BULLETPROOF to date, and also a shame to just let it sit in the garage. Upside - no money outta pocket, baby! 4. Anyone have another good suggestion? I've never been attracted to Mercedes-Benz. The Bangle-ized 745/750 is wwwwaaayyy ugly. Blech. The Audi A8 is pretty sweet, but I like RWD, and it's too pricey for my needs. The Infiniti M45 sounds about right, but too expensive for my purposes right now too (why oh why doesn't Nissan have a version of the M45? Or make the Maxima in RWD??). Had an E39 BMW 528iT wagon, and loooooved it, but just too small for this purpose (hence another strike against the M5, and why the Infiniti G35 isn't on the list). The older I get, the less I care about "prestige", and the more I like "no hassle". Though I still like to drive vehicles I enjoy (hence, no Lexus LS on the list). Anyway, that's where I stand. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Vty, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 09:27:35 -0400 From: Matt Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "'911/993/996'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected], "'The FerrariList'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Decisions, decisions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You could buy my 996 so that TLJ® can keep her ride. Plus, there won't be an usurious shipping charges, either. I believe in customer service. Matt Murray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > 3. Get rid of the Bimmer, and just use the wife's 996 as a daily driver. > No room for kids, but way cool ride. Could put snow tires on the spare > set > of rims (currently running slicks for track outings), and take out PFC-97 > race pads and install OEM pads. Kinda shame to put the mileage on it > (only > 43k miles right now), but the thing has been BULLETPROOF to date, and also > a > shame to just let it sit in the garage. Upside - no money outta pocket, > baby! > Vty, > > --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 06:31:21 -0700 From: "Hogg, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "911/993/996" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "The FerrariList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Decisions, decisions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Volvo turbo charged station wagon - V70R. Actually looks cool, especially with the dark windows, has 300hp, very luxurious inside, $40k (could always buy a slighty used one off lease) and a lot of room inside for the family. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 3:49 PM To: '911/993/996'; [email protected]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'The FerrariList' Subject: [UUC] Decisions, decisions So... Sigh. Need some input from the boys (and girls) on this one. My "daily driver" for the last, oh, 6 years or so has been an E38 BMW 740iL, 1995. I've gotten it up to 163k miles, mostly reliable. The usual E38 problems, all addressed. Runs great, but its time is drawing near, especially as someone (not moi) managed to rear end a truck yesterday with it. Cosmetic damage, but probably $1500 worth. Dang, too bad, as I loooooooove(d) this car. So, what do I do? 1. Fix it and keep driving it until it blows up. 2. Dump it for whatever it'll fetch (any ideas?), and buy one of the following. For a "daily driver", I would like a "biggish" sedan, as I'd much prefer to go on trips in it with my two young daughters and all their stuff in a sedan (or wagon) than the big SUV or the minivan. 2A. 1999-2001 E38 BMW 740i SPORT. Asking prices seem to range between $10k-$24k, with mileage between 75k-133k miles. Upside - I love the 740i sport. I'd make sure that all of the known problem areas are addressed, or else take a reserve for it. Downside is that these are getting a bit old, and miles are getting higher. 2B. E39 M5. Between $23k-$40k, mileage all over. Upside - hey, it's an M5! Downside - wow, potential maintenance and repair costs are scary. I've already spent way too much on those friggin' Eyetaliano beasts, so really not interested in adding another delicate beast to the fleet. 2C. Brand new Dodge Magnum R/T. $28k-ish. Upside - hey, 340 hp Hemi! Possibly the Charger instead, but why not get the added utility of a wagon too? (no, not the 350 hp Charger Daytona package, a little too garish for my taste, methinks). Decent fuel economy. Fair bit of interior room (not quite 740iL, but close to 740i I think), lots of room in the back, great performance, new car warranty. Downside - not much, aside from the cost and, well, it's a Dodge. How dependable is it? Depreciation is gonna hurt? 2D. Brand new Dodge Magnum SRT-8. $35k-ish. Upside - hey, 425 hp Hemi! REAL performance. Warranty, room, looks pretty cool too. Downside - fairly horrendous fuel economy (no variable displacement in SRT version, so big mileage hit, grrr). And what will probably be a deal killer for me: the $2100 gas guzzler tax. YOWWWWWWWWWWWZA!!!!!!! 2E. Brand new Toyota Avalon. $27k-ish. Upside - relatively fast, fairly luxurious, and will run 200k miles with nothing but oil changes. Bullet proof. Downside - FWD, and, well, it's a Toyota sedan. If only they (or Honda) made a RWD equivalent, like a competitor to the Charger/300C/Magnum, and I'd be the first in line. 3. Get rid of the Bimmer, and just use the wife's 996 as a daily driver. No room for kids, but way cool ride. Could put snow tires on the spare set of rims (currently running slicks for track outings), and take out PFC-97 race pads and install OEM pads. Kinda shame to put the mileage on it (only 43k miles right now), but the thing has been BULLETPROOF to date, and also a shame to just let it sit in the garage. Upside - no money outta pocket, baby! 4. Anyone have another good suggestion? I've never been attracted to Mercedes-Benz. The Bangle-ized 745/750 is wwwwaaayyy ugly. Blech. The Audi A8 is pretty sweet, but I like RWD, and it's too pricey for my needs. The Infiniti M45 sounds about right, but too expensive for my purposes right now too (why oh why doesn't Nissan have a version of the M45? Or make the Maxima in RWD??). Had an E39 BMW 528iT wagon, and loooooved it, but just too small for this purpose (hence another strike against the M5, and why the Infiniti G35 isn't on the list). The older I get, the less I care about "prestige", and the more I like "no hassle". Though I still like to drive vehicles I enjoy (hence, no Lexus LS on the list). Anyway, that's where I stand. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Vty, --Dennis Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 05:48:52 -0700 (PDT) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Last try, anyone have a 235/40/17 Pirelli P-Zero M&S? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've got one brand new 235/40/17 Pirelli P-Zero M&S and I'm looking for another (doesn't have to be new, but does need to have at least 80% tread). Pirelli seems to have stopped making this size :( If anyone has one, please let me know off line. Thanks, Paul 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 09:17:09 -0400 From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E36 Brake Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Silly question... How important is that set screw on the front rotors? I had to drill one out on side of the car, now I've got a wobble under moderate braking that I can't seem to find... Trying to figure out if I've warped a rotor, bent a rim, if it's that set screw missing, or if I have something else going on... ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 09:24:36 -0400 From: "Racing King" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Brake Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I used to drill the bolts out when they don't come off, but now I realized that The rotors are made a certain way that the metal where the screw sits is very thin. A couple of blow behind the screw with a hammer will break the rotor free, you can then use a vice grip or pliers to remove the screw. For your problem, when I used to drill the screw I never had any problem with wobbling. How big a hole did you make in the hub??? Did the wobble happened right after changing the rotor? Did you clean the hub before installing the rotor??? Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: [UUC] E36 Brake Question > > > Silly question... How important is that set screw on the front rotors? > I had to drill one out on side of the car, now I've got a wobble under > moderate braking that I can't seem to find... Trying to figure out if > I've warped a rotor, bent a rim, if it's that set screw missing, or if I > have something else going on... > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 24 Aug 2006 09:34:07 -0400 From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 Brake Question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I only drilled off the head of the screw, just big enough to get the rotor off. In the last 10k or so miles, the control arms and ball joints were replaced (as well as the bearing on the driver side), the rotors are new, I replaced the control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, struts, strut hats... basically the entire front end. Coming back from a golf outing last weekend, coming down a hill I had to get on the brakes moderately hard and thought the damn car was going to shake apart... It had been fine. I am thinking it has to be a warped rotor or bent rim... Just making sure it's not something small. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Racing King Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 9:25 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Brake Question I used to drill the bolts out when they don't come off, but now I realized that The rotors are made a certain way that the metal where the screw sits is very thin. A couple of blow behind the screw with a hammer will break the rotor free, you can then use a vice grip or pliers to remove the screw. For your problem, when I used to drill the screw I never had any problem with wobbling. How big a hole did you make in the hub??? Did the wobble happened right after changing the rotor? Did you clean the hub before installing the rotor??? Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 9:17 AM Subject: [UUC] E36 Brake Question > > > Silly question... How important is that set screw on the front rotors? > I had to drill one out on side of the car, now I've got a wobble under > moderate braking that I can't seem to find... Trying to figure out if > I've warped a rotor, bent a rim, if it's that set screw missing, or if I > have something else going on... > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
