The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 66 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E30 - Failed Emissions Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Alternator Ducting Filter Re: parts advice..... Re: parts advice..... Re: parts advice..... BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Re: BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Re: BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Re: <e36> Thermostat housing gasket Re: parts advice.....
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 21:02:26 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 - Failed Emissions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Feb 12, 2006, at 5:57 AM, Gary Derian wrote: > An oxygen sensor is a Nernst cell that compares oxygen on each > side. If there is oxygen on both sides, no output (0.2 to 0.3 v). > If there is oxygen on only one side, it outputs high (0.7 to > 0.8v). You must monitor it with the engine running. In normal > mode, it dithers between low and high several times per second. The correct term is "oscillate," but you'd need to be an engineer to know that. - Mark ----- [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar :) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 00:30:54 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: Maverick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Still sounds like a hydraulic issue. Mine was funky when the dealer did it, very soft and almost to the floor. then late the next day, normal pedal and engagement. It was caused by a bubble someplace, once it worked out, no problem. I know there is a special way to bleed the slave, not sure how at the moment. Beyond that, maybe master cylinder issues. David in Richmond, VA -----Original Message----- >From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Feb 13, 2006 8:09 PM >To: [email protected] >Subject: [UUC] Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) > >I installed a UUC direct-fit non-sac clutch about a month ago. I used >copper anti-seize as a lubricant on the shaft splines, pilot bearing, >and pivot points of the release fork. I did not grease the shaft that >the throw-out bearing slides on (BMW recommendation). > >The car would run great until about an hour after I had been driving >it, at which point I would need to press in the clutch pedal quite a >bit further than when it was cold. This goes back to normal once the >car has a chance to cool off overnight. > >Two weeks ago I stopped for a sandwich and when I came back to the >car I could not disengage the clutch. I pressed the clutch in before >starting the car and noticed it felt soft on the way down. I towed >the car home and put it up on blocks and replaced the slave cylinder >(master slave was recently replaced because of the plastic loop >breaking when bleeding). I also replaced the hose with a stainless >steel hose. This did not fix the problem. > >While the car was in the air and I was test driving it, I started the >engine with the clutch in and the car in first. The wheels spun and I >slowly pressed the brake in. The clutch popped loose and the car went >back to normal. > >The clutch locked up again today. I again noticed the soft pedal >before I started the car. I managed to fix it in the parking lot by >again starting the car in first with the clutch in and then pressing >the brake down. The clutch pedal goes back to normal after this. > >I just power bled the clutch slave and I noticed no bubbles. > >It seems to me that if the throwout bearing was getting stuck on the >shaft the clutch would not get soft but instead lock hard. I have not >noticed any leaked brake fluid after either of these events. > >It also seems to me that this is a problem in the hydraulics. Could >this be a bad master cylinder? > >I am running 100% Redline MT-90 to reduce chatter, could this fluid >be the problem of the increased clutch peddle throw when the car is hot? > >Thanks, >Kraig >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 22:13:36 -0800 From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've bled it so many times I have lost count. Today I did the BMW recommended method with pushing the piston in and out to remove bubbles. I had better results just hooking up the power bleeder and opening the valve. I suppose I will replace the master cylinder again. Thanks David. Kraig On Feb 13, 2006, at 9:30 PM, Maverick wrote: > Still sounds like a hydraulic issue. Mine was funky when the > dealer did it, very soft and almost to the floor. then late the > next day, normal pedal and engagement. It was caused by a bubble > someplace, once it worked out, no problem. > > I know there is a special way to bleed the slave, not sure how at > the moment. Beyond that, maybe master cylinder issues. > > David in Richmond, VA > > -----Original Message----- >> From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Sent: Feb 13, 2006 8:09 PM >> To: [email protected] >> Subject: [UUC] Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) >> >> I installed a UUC direct-fit non-sac clutch about a month ago. I used >> copper anti-seize as a lubricant on the shaft splines, pilot bearing, >> and pivot points of the release fork. I did not grease the shaft that >> the throw-out bearing slides on (BMW recommendation). >> >> The car would run great until about an hour after I had been driving >> it, at which point I would need to press in the clutch pedal quite a >> bit further than when it was cold. This goes back to normal once the >> car has a chance to cool off overnight. >> >> Two weeks ago I stopped for a sandwich and when I came back to the >> car I could not disengage the clutch. I pressed the clutch in before >> starting the car and noticed it felt soft on the way down. I towed >> the car home and put it up on blocks and replaced the slave cylinder >> (master slave was recently replaced because of the plastic loop >> breaking when bleeding). I also replaced the hose with a stainless >> steel hose. This did not fix the problem. >> >> While the car was in the air and I was test driving it, I started the >> engine with the clutch in and the car in first. The wheels spun and I >> slowly pressed the brake in. The clutch popped loose and the car went >> back to normal. >> >> The clutch locked up again today. I again noticed the soft pedal >> before I started the car. I managed to fix it in the parking lot by >> again starting the car in first with the clutch in and then pressing >> the brake down. The clutch pedal goes back to normal after this. >> >> I just power bled the clutch slave and I noticed no bubbles. >> >> It seems to me that if the throwout bearing was getting stuck on the >> shaft the clutch would not get soft but instead lock hard. I have not >> noticed any leaked brake fluid after either of these events. >> >> It also seems to me that this is a problem in the hydraulics. Could >> this be a bad master cylinder? >> >> I am running 100% Redline MT-90 to reduce chatter, could this fluid >> be the problem of the increased clutch peddle throw when the car >> is hot? >> >> Thanks, >> Kraig >> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ >> [email protected] >> >> >> _____________________________________________________________________ >> _____ >> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the >> BMW CCA. >> >> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 07:57:58 -0600 From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I've bled it so many times I have lost count. Today I did the BMW > recommended method with pushing the piston in and out to remove bubbles. > > I had better results just hooking up the power bleeder and opening > the valve. In my experience, if the BMW recomended method didn't work you didn't do it correctly. This has always been sucessful at bleeding the clutch circuit when a normal pressure bleed didn't work for me. That's based on 10 years experience with BMWs and Porsche 928s which use very similar hydraulics for the clutch. The recomended Porsche procedure is the same procedure as BMW recomends FWIW. It is important to open the bleed nipple, fully depress the clutch slave plunger and then tighten the bleed nipple. You may have to repeat this multiple times. Since you have replaced major components of your clutch hydraulics, it is very likely that you still have air trapped in the circuit, you need to get it out. Regards -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 22:05:11 -0800 (PST) From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Alternator Ducting Filter Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett Anderson wrote: "I've never seen or heard of such an animal. Most of the failures I see are from crud blocking the duct. In most cases, you'd actually be better off removing the duct. It's there to cool the alternator during extended 5K rpm runs down the Autobahn." I can see your point. With the part of the housing just pointing straight down maybe there would be less of a chance of stuff getting in there vs. the ram air effect of factory ducting. However, I would at least put some kind of screen over the opening. In fact, I may just do that at the front opening to prevent stuff from getting in there. Kevin Kelly '91 M5 (240k, 80k on a rebuild) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 03:41:15 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: parts advice..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Guys, Yes, Thanks all for the input. My car has 181K Kilometers. I bought it three years ago with 124K from the original family/owner. Its been well taken care of by me and the past owners. I have done all the usual stuff like; manual trans fluid, diff fluid changes, oil, micro filter, services. I have already replaced the radiator and just a few weeks ago the waterpump and thremostat and housing - due to a stuck thermostat. I have also install a nice set of Bilstien Sports (shocks) with german lowering springs. I also then renewed most of the suspension wear items like : control arms, bushing, strutt bearings, tie rods, ect. I have a new tight car now. And yes, since its German spec car I do buy most of my parts thru the Dealership (called Zentrums - over here) or a good OEM supplier(called StahlGrube). I buy Mahle filters and stuff from them. I do buy my oil from the states since its cheaper - way cheaper. I was just wondering if there is any ignition parts that could leave me strandard on the Autobahn somehwere? IS there a DME relay? I have been think about replacing the engine crank sensor - just as a PM item. Any thoughts? One Question I have is: Does the brakes rotors seem to warp out after hard autobahn use. Seems like every year I need to replace the rotors do to warping issues. The brake rotors is one thing I have bought aftermarket and I am wondering if the factory parts might be better option. Its just that the BMW dealer wants $130 per rotor while as my local OEM supplier wants $40 each for top names like: Lucas, ATE, or Brembo. So far I have tried Lukas and ATE, both seem to have the warping issues. Any thought? At first I thought maybe it was my fualt since I didn't use a torque wrench when install the road wheels, but now I have/use one. I just think it is a wear part. I have always heard the brakes warp out on Bmws. Thanks all for the Tips. David Jalali 98 323i e36 ..................................... In a message dated 14.02.2006 02:55:08 Westeuropäische Normalzeit, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi David, > I would like to know where is a good parts source to buy from. Like is there > ANY Bmw dealer in the US that has decent prices with GREAT service? And > where > should I go for OEM like parts? Since it's a German model you might want to buy parts from a German dealer, that way there's no issue with non-US parts if there are any on your car. To look up part numbers use: http://www.realoem.com > And last-ly.... Is there anything I should replace as a preventive > maintence(PM) iteim on a six cylider 2.5L e36? That largeley depends upon what kind of maintenance schedule it's had to this point and how many miles are on it now. Cooling system items on E36s should be maintained between 60 and 100K miles. I might suggest a radiator, coolant pump, thermostat and aluminum housing replacement if you don't know it's been done within the last 60K miles. Note, I am quoting miles not KM. If it's a manual transmission, the tranny fluid should be changed every 30-50K miles although BMW differs in opinion on this at least in the US where transmissions are "lifetime fill". Likewise the differential fluid. Engine oil, filters, cabin microfilter are all fair game too. Have fun. -- Jamie Howton 2000 M5 1995 M3 Hampshire, IL ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 08:23:02 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: parts advice..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> David wrote: >One Question I have is: Does the brakes rotors seem to warp out after hard autobahn use. Seems like every year I need to replace the rotors do to warping issues. The brake rotors is one thing I have bought aftermarket and I am wondering if the factory parts might be better option. Its just that the BMW dealer wants $130 per rotor while as my local OEM supplier wants $40 each for top names like: Lucas, ATE, or Brembo. So far I have tried Lukas and ATE, both seem to have the warping issues. Any thought? At first I thought maybe it was my fualt since I didn't use a torque wrench when install the road wheels, but now I have/use one. I just think it is a wear part. I have always heard the brakes warp out on Bmws. =============================== I'd be willing to bet money that it's NOT a true "warping" issue with your rotors. Are you replacing rotors because you actually measure the thickness and find it below minimum each year? Or because of a vibration when you apply the brakes? If it's the former, then call me impressed (unless you drive 40k+ miles a year). But it's because of the latter, right? Go read this: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml It's quite likely that the rotors weren't "warped", but rather that you're suffering from uneven brake pad material deposition on the rotors. Try some better brake pads next time. And the $40 PEM Lucas, ATE or Brembo rotor is perfectly fine. I've used Brembo and ATE myself, no problems. HTH... Vty, --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 09:16:26 -0500 From: Ben Keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: parts advice..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis' link to the page about "warping" brakes is a good reference. it's possible to get rotors which are slightly out of round or balance which can get worse over time, probably excerbated by the pad mat'l transfer issue described in the article. I'd try to source Balo rotors, which I don't recall hearing people having had issues with. I've heard of bad sets of ATE & Brembo rotors. you may actually be killing them with repeated stops from high speed on the autobahn as well, esp if you have brakes pads which are able to get a lot of heat into them. race-track specific brake pads are incredible when they're hot, but you can end up with stress cracks & other issues with the rotors if they're not large enough/cooled enough. don't think you're using track pads on a street car tho, right ? Ben David wrote: > One Question I have is: Does the brakes rotors seem to warp out after hard > autobahn use. Seems like every year I need to replace the rotors do to warping > issues. The brake rotors is one thing I have bought aftermarket and I am > wondering if the factory parts might be better option. Its just that the BMW > dealer > wants $130 per rotor while as my local OEM supplier wants $40 each for top > names like: Lucas, ATE, or Brembo. So far I have tried Lukas & ATE, both seem > to have the warping issues. Any thought? At first I thought maybe it was my > fualt since I didn't use a torque wrench when install the road wheels, but now > I have/use one. I just think it is a wear part. I have always heard the > brakes warp out on Bmws. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 06:20:37 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend's brother's friend's son has taken the family 5 series (possibly an '89 E34, no details) to college with him. They're looking for recommendations for an independent service shop in the Irvine/Costa Mesa area. Please let me know if you have suggestions. TIA, Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 08:46:14 -0800 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:20 AM 2/14/2006, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: I can't personally vouch for their work, but many locals, including people I know, like Bullet Performance in Costa Mesa. I do know they're quote a busy shop, so sometimes it helps to call ahead. >A friend's brother's friend's son has taken the family 5 series >(possibly an '89 E34, no details) to college with him. They're >looking for recommendations for an independent service shop in the >Irvine/Costa Mesa area. Please let me know if you have suggestions. > >TIA, > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA > > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 09:15:51 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> you can't go wrong with Bullet. Actually I wish you could go wrong sometimes so I'd have less competition at the track. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kazuto Okayasu Sent: Tuesday, February 14, 2006 8:46 AM To: UUC Digest Subject: Re: [UUC] BMW Independent in Irvine/Costa Mesa? At 06:20 AM 2/14/2006, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: I can't personally vouch for their work, but many locals, including people I know, like Bullet Performance in Costa Mesa. I do know they're quote a busy shop, so sometimes it helps to call ahead. >A friend's brother's friend's son has taken the family 5 series >(possibly an '89 E34, no details) to college with him. They're >looking for recommendations for an independent service shop in the >Irvine/Costa Mesa area. Please let me know if you have suggestions. > >TIA, > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA > > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 06:40:39 -0800 From: "T WALROD" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "bmw digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <e36> Thermostat housing gasket Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -Kevin said On the MTK aluminum thermostat gasket ,which I ordered from Brett by the way, what is the function of the nubs in the orange sealing trapazoidal ring? They actually push the seal away from the walls of the channel into which it sits. Why would this be the case? My guess is that it keeps the sealing ring in the groove rather than falling into the dirt as you try to install the thermostat housing. Just did my M50 thermostat etc. a week or so ago. Tom Walrod ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Feb 2006 09:28:21 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: parts advice..... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Besides the cooling system stuff Jamie mentioned, pull the upper engine cover and check down in the the spark plug/coil holes to see if any oil is leaking from the valve cover gasket. Left un-checked, this could lead to the condition we know of around her as "Ulf's Coil Syndrom". If the coils are all still working right, just replace the valve cover gasket. Also, when you do the water pump replacement, have a tensioner pulley handy in case it fails. Mine got noisy when the new serpentine belt was put on after the water pump was replaced. Ask John Firestone where he buys his E36 parts, he's been in Germany for years. (I assume he's still there and I believe he's still on this list.) Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [email protected] >Subject: parts advice..... >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Hello Guys, > <snip> > >And last-ly.... Is there anything I should replace as a preventive >maintence(PM) iteim on a six cylider 2.5L e36? Is there a DME relay or a Crank sensor >that typically fail at high miles? > >Thanks >David Jalali >99 323i (e36) German spec. ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(13 messages) **********
