+1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice grips 
get a purchase. 
bmc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 28, 2015, at 14:30, Bruce J keeler <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but smaller nut?
> 
> Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to the 
> boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter. Perhaps try 
> the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up to operating temp 
> then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the heck out of the nut?
> 
>> On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:
>> Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally 
>> round circle :-)
>> 
>> It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units from 
>> home depot and it worked first shot.
>> 
>> Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston 
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> Brian,
>>> 
>>> I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is just 
>>> too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could try 
>>> more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch. 
>>> 
>>> Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for 
>>> offering though!
>>> 
>>> jesse
>>> 
>>>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>> You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will do 
>>>> it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper 
>>>> tools, you may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you 
>>>> anywhere near Seattle?
>>>> Best,
>>>> bmc
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt grips 
>>>>> that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before getting 
>>>>> enough pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact 
>>>>> wrench, but the issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much 
>>>>> force as possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the 
>>>>> other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at 
>>>>> this point.
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>>> No worries, let us know how it goes!
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>>>>> Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads. 
>>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Thank you for all the thoughts
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue, 
>>>>>>>>> all. Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The 
>>>>>>>>> malfunctioning AKO is causing this. But...                            
>>>>>>>>>                        the steam boiler does heat up. What if I just 
>>>>>>>>> switch the wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the 
>>>>>>>>> brew boiler?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> I have a probable solution for you.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
>>>>>>>>>> The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me 
>>>>>>>>>> the PID upgrade kit.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried 
>>>>>>>>>> many tools. 
>>>>>>>>>> A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not 
>>>>>>>>>> budge it.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I was on the phone several times with WLL.
>>>>>>>>>> Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
>>>>>>>>>> I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They did.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful 
>>>>>>>>>> repair technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.
>>>>>>>>>> That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could watch 
>>>>>>>>>> them doing the repair.
>>>>>>>>>> He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since the 
>>>>>>>>>> probe is not working, you can't read the temperature.
>>>>>>>>>> He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> It then spun out effortlessly.
>>>>>>>>>> He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very 
>>>>>>>>>> aggressive thread lock compounds.
>>>>>>>>>> Heat works!!!!
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