| Vacuum the bits up with some narrow tubing that you adapt to a vacuum cleaner with tape - not pretty but does work.
Graeme From: Jesse Livingston Sent: Sunday, 30 August 2015 05:12 To: Brewtus Subject: Re: Removing Temperature Probe |
Gents,
An olympic gold metal winner cannot understand the sense of victory I have right now.
I DID IT.
Drilled a big f%$*ing hole right down the center of the probe. Just small enough that it wouldn't damage the threads but big enough that I could remove most of the probe. The nut fell off easy. From there, it was just a matter of carefully chiseling away the remnants of the probe within the threads, which peeled off after a bit.
Now I have figure out a good way to get all the metal shavings at the bottom of the boiler lol. Ideas? I can't budge any of the parts at the bottom.
Jesse On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 2:27:53 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: Sorry to hear that man! The dude at the factory must have had a bad day and brazed it in, haha!
I'd be happy to give it a shot if you want to send it usps flat rate, would be cheaper than a new boiler. Ping me off list if you'd like. Best, bmc
Sent from my apple IIe Thanks for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately, even with real vice grips and a well-powered propane torch, no luck.
My options are, two, right now. 1 order a replacement boiler ($120) or 2, sell it to one of you that wants a project machine. I have all the parts for the PID replacement (which I could return) but if someone is interested, I could include the parts.
Feel free to write me directly with an offer if you are interested.
Thanks,
Jesse On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 6:05:20 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: +1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice grips get a purchase. bmc
Sent from my iPhone
How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but
smaller nut?
Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied
to the boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it
tighter. Perhaps try the element wire switching technique to heat
the boiler up to operating temp then use an upside-down can of
canned air to cool the heck out of the nut?
On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie
wrote:
Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound
the nut into totally round circle :-)
It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap
re-chargeable units from home depot and it worked first shot.
Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started,
though.
On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse
Livingston <[email protected]>
wrote:
Brian,
I do have vice grips but they just slip around the
brass. The brass is just too soft – it strips even if
they are super tight on there. I could try more heat, I
just don't have a very hot torch.
Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I
could be :/ thanks for offering though!
jesse
On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4,
bmacpiper wrote:
You need vice grips. They can grip something
round. And more heat will do it. Even seized
radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking
proper tools, you may just need to replace. I'd
help if I was close! Are you anywhere near
Seattle?
Best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
No luck on any of these
solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt
grips that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but
they just slip before getting enough pressure.
Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an
impact wrench, but the issue is, nothing will
grip this nut. I can have as much force as
possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's
for not.
I'd say I just have to replace the
boiler, but unfortunately all the other
boiler components are equally stuck. Really
not sure what to do at this point.
On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM
UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
No worries, let us know how it
goes!
Sent from my iPhone
Ah, just saw that in
your comment Bmac. Thanks!
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at
10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper
wrote:
Again, a torch applied
gently to the base of the
probe threads.
best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
Thank you
for all the thoughts
Richard, your
suggestion sounds
really promising. Here
is my issue, all.
Currently, the brew
boiler isn't getting
any heat. The
malfunctioning AKO is
causing this. But...
the steam boiler does
heat up. What if I
just switch the wires
for the brew and steam
boilers? Would it heat
up the brew boiler?
Other ideas for how
to get the brew boiler
to heat up?
Thanks again!
On Tuesday, August 25,
2015 at 12:18:29 AM
UTC-4, Richard wrote:
I
have a probable
solution for you.
I had the
same problem
with a Brewtus
II.
The
original temp
probe failed.
WLL no longer
stocks it and
sold me the
PID upgrade
kit.
I could not
remove the
temp probe. I
spent a lot of
time and tried
many tools.
A local
plumber could
not remove it.
My auto
mechanic could
not budge it.
I was on
the phone
several times
with WLL.
Nothing
worked.
Absolutely
nothing.
I spoke
with Todd
Salzman. He
assured me
they could fix
it. They did.
I finally
drove up to
Rochester from
NYC and
watched a
wonderful
repair
technician Johnny
Kemmitz solve
the problem.
That was
easier for me
than shipping
it and as a
bonus I could
watch them
doing the
repair.
He tried to
remove it
mechanically
with tools and
failed.
He then let
it heat up to
operating
temperature.
Of course
since the
probe is not
working, you
can't read the
temperature.
He let it
heat for about
20 minutes.
It then
spun out
effortlessly.
He said
that for a few
years Expobar
had been using
some very
aggressive
thread lock
compounds.
Heat
works!!!!
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