Wad of plummers putty on the end of a piece of all-thread

bg

 

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of 
Jesse Livingston
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2015 5:13 PM
To: Brewtus <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Removing Temperature Probe

 

Gents,

 

An olympic gold metal winner cannot understand the sense of victory I have 
right now.

 

I DID IT.


Drilled a big f%$*ing hole right down the center of the probe. Just small 
enough that it wouldn't damage the threads but big enough that I could remove 
most of the probe. The nut fell off easy. From there, it was just a matter of 
carefully chiseling away the remnants of the probe within the threads, which 
peeled off after a bit.

 

Now I have figure out a good way to get all the metal shavings at the bottom of 
the boiler lol. Ideas? I can't budge any of the parts at the bottom.

 

Jesse

On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 2:27:53 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:

Sorry to hear that man!  The dude at the factory must have had a bad day and 
brazed it in, haha!
I'd be happy to give it a shot if you want to send it usps flat rate, would be 
cheaper than a new boiler. Ping me off list if you'd like. 

Best,

bmc
Sent from my apple IIe


On Aug 29, 2015, at 11:23, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
<javascript:> > wrote:

Thanks for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately, even with real vice grips and 
a well-powered propane torch, no luck.

 

My options are, two, right now. 1 order a replacement boiler ($120) or 2, sell 
it to one of you that wants a project machine. I have all the parts for the PID 
replacement (which I could return) but if someone is interested, I could 
include the parts. 

 

Feel free to write me directly with an offer if you are interested.

 

Thanks,

 

Jesse

On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 6:05:20 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:

+1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice grips 
get a purchase. 

bmc

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 28, 2015, at 14:30, Bruce J keeler <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but smaller nut?

Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to the 
boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter. Perhaps try 
the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up to operating temp 
then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the heck out of the nut?

On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:

Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally round 
circle :-) 

 

It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units from 
home depot and it worked first shot.

 

Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.

 

On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Brian, 

 

I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is just too 
soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could try more heat, 
I just don't have a very hot torch. 

 

Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for 
offering though!


jesse


On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 

You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will do it. 
Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper tools, you 
may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you anywhere near 
Seattle?

Best,

bmc

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt grips that 
supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before getting enough 
pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact wrench, but the 
issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much force as possible, but 
if the bit won't grip it, it's for not. 

 

I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the other 
boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at this point.

On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 

No worries, let us know how it goes!

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 

Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads. 

best,

bmc
Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
<mailto:[email protected]> > wrote:

Thank you for all the thoughts 

 

Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue, all. 
Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The malfunctioning AKO is 
causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up. What if I just switch the 
wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the brew boiler?

 

Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?


Thanks again!

On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote: 

I have a probable solution for you. 

 

I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.

The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me the PID 
upgrade kit.

 

I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried many tools. 

A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not budge it.

 

I was on the phone several times with WLL.

Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.

I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They did.

 

I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful repair 
technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.

That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could watch them doing 
the repair.

He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.

 

He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since the probe is 
not working, you can't read the temperature.

He let it heat for about 20 minutes.

 

It then spun out effortlessly.

He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very aggressive thread 
lock compounds.

Heat works!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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