Gents,

An olympic gold metal winner cannot understand the sense of victory I have 
right now.

I DID IT.

Drilled a big f%$*ing hole right down the center of the probe. Just small 
enough that it wouldn't damage the threads but big enough that I could 
remove most of the probe. The nut fell off easy. From there, it was just a 
matter of carefully chiseling away the remnants of the probe within the 
threads, which peeled off after a bit.

Now I have figure out a good way to get all the metal shavings at the 
bottom of the boiler lol. Ideas? I can't budge any of the parts at the 
bottom.

Jesse

On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 2:27:53 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>
> Sorry to hear that man!  The dude at the factory must have had a bad day 
> and brazed it in, haha!
> I'd be happy to give it a shot if you want to send it usps flat rate, 
> would be cheaper than a new boiler. Ping me off list if you'd like. 
> Best,
> bmc
> Sent from my apple IIe
>
> On Aug 29, 2015, at 11:23, Jesse Livingston <[email protected] 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately, even with real vice 
> grips and a well-powered propane torch, no luck.
>
> My options are, two, right now. 1 order a replacement boiler ($120) or 2, 
> sell it to one of you that wants a project machine. I have all the parts 
> for the PID replacement (which I could return) but if someone is 
> interested, I could include the parts. 
>
> Feel free to write me directly with an offer if you are interested.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jesse
>
> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 6:05:20 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> +1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice 
>> grips get a purchase. 
>> bmc
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 14:30, Bruce J keeler <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but smaller 
>> nut?
>>
>> Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to 
>> the boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter. 
>> Perhaps try the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up to 
>> operating temp then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the heck 
>> out of the nut?
>>
>> On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:
>>
>> Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally 
>> round circle :-) 
>>
>> It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units 
>> from home depot and it worked first shot.
>>
>> Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Brian, 
>>>
>>> I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is 
>>> just too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could 
>>> try more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch. 
>>>
>>> Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for 
>>> offering though!
>>>
>>> jesse
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>
>>>> You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will 
>>>> do it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper 
>>>> tools, you may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you 
>>>> anywhere near Seattle?
>>>> Best,
>>>> bmc
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt 
>>>> grips that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before 
>>>> getting 
>>>> enough pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact 
>>>> wrench, but the issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much 
>>>> force as possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not. 
>>>>
>>>> I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the 
>>>> other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at 
>>>> this point.
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>>
>>>>> No worries, let us know how it goes!
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads. 
>>>>>> best,
>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you for all the thoughts 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue, 
>>>>>> all. Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The 
>>>>>> malfunctioning 
>>>>>> AKO is causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up. What if I 
>>>>>> just 
>>>>>> switch the wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the 
>>>>>> brew 
>>>>>> boiler?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote: 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have a probable solution for you. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
>>>>>>> The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me 
>>>>>>> the PID upgrade kit.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried 
>>>>>>> many tools. 
>>>>>>> A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not 
>>>>>>> budge it.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I was on the phone several times with WLL.
>>>>>>> Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
>>>>>>> I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They did.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful 
>>>>>>> repair technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.
>>>>>>> That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could watch 
>>>>>>> them doing the repair.
>>>>>>> He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since the 
>>>>>>> probe is not working, you can't read the temperature.
>>>>>>> He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It then spun out effortlessly.
>>>>>>> He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very 
>>>>>>> aggressive thread lock compounds.
>>>>>>> Heat works!!!!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
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