Thanks all. I was able to get pretty much all the shavings out. I ended up 
siphoning water out of the boilers repeatedly and using the tube as a kind 
of vaccum cleaner to get everything out. Very long and tedious, but it 
worked. So, kind of what you suggested, Graeme =)

Btw Graeme, are you the one with the killer mods I saw a ways back? If so 
very cool! I'm jealous!

On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 6:56:10 PM UTC-4, GRB wrote:
>
> Vacuum the bits up with some narrow tubing that you adapt to a vacuum 
> cleaner with tape - not pretty but does work. 
>
> Graeme
> *From: *Jesse Livingston
> *Sent: *Sunday, 30 August 2015 05:12
> *To: *Brewtus
> *Reply To: *[email protected] <javascript:>
> *Subject: *Re: Removing Temperature Probe
>
> Gents,
>
> An olympic gold metal winner cannot understand the sense of victory I have 
> right now.
>
> I DID IT.
>
> Drilled a big f%$*ing hole right down the center of the probe. Just small 
> enough that it wouldn't damage the threads but big enough that I could 
> remove most of the probe. The nut fell off easy. From there, it was just a 
> matter of carefully chiseling away the remnants of the probe within the 
> threads, which peeled off after a bit.
>
> Now I have figure out a good way to get all the metal shavings at the 
> bottom of the boiler lol. Ideas? I can't budge any of the parts at the 
> bottom.
>
> Jesse
>
> On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 2:27:53 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> Sorry to hear that man!  The dude at the factory must have had a bad day 
>> and brazed it in, haha!
>> I'd be happy to give it a shot if you want to send it usps flat rate, 
>> would be cheaper than a new boiler. Ping me off list if you'd like. 
>> Best,
>> bmc
>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>
>> On Aug 29, 2015, at 11:23, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately, even with real vice 
>> grips and a well-powered propane torch, no luck.
>>
>> My options are, two, right now. 1 order a replacement boiler ($120) or 2, 
>> sell it to one of you that wants a project machine. I have all the parts 
>> for the PID replacement (which I could return) but if someone is 
>> interested, I could include the parts. 
>>
>> Feel free to write me directly with an offer if you are interested.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jesse
>>
>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 6:05:20 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>
>>> +1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice 
>>> grips get a purchase. 
>>> bmc
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 14:30, Bruce J keeler <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but 
>>> smaller nut?
>>>
>>> Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to 
>>> the boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter. 
>>> Perhaps try the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up to 
>>> operating temp then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the heck 
>>> out of the nut?
>>>
>>> On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:
>>>
>>> Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally 
>>> round circle :-) 
>>>
>>> It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units 
>>> from home depot and it worked first shot.
>>>
>>> Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> Brian, 
>>>>
>>>> I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is 
>>>> just too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could 
>>>> try more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch. 
>>>>
>>>> Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for 
>>>> offering though!
>>>>
>>>> jesse
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>>
>>>>> You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will 
>>>>> do it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper 
>>>>> tools, you may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you 
>>>>> anywhere near Seattle?
>>>>> Best,
>>>>> bmc
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt 
>>>>> grips that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before 
>>>>> getting 
>>>>> enough pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact 
>>>>> wrench, but the issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much 
>>>>> force as possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the 
>>>>> other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at 
>>>>> this point.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> No worries, let us know how it goes!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote: 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads. 
>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thank you for all the thoughts 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue, 
>>>>>>> all. Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The 
>>>>>>> malfunctioning 
>>>>>>> AKO is causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up. What if I 
>>>>>>> just 
>>>>>>> switch the wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the 
>>>>>>> brew 
>>>>>>> boiler?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote: 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a probable solution for you. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
>>>>>>>> The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me 
>>>>>>>> the PID upgrade kit.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried 
>>>>>>>> many tools. 
>>>>>>>> A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not 
>>>>>>>> budge it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I was on the phone several times with WLL.
>>>>>>>> Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
>>>>>>>> I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They 
>>>>>>>> did.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful 
>>>>>>>> repair technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.
>>>>>>>> That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could 
>>>>>>>> watch them doing the repair.
>>>>>>>> He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since 
>>>>>>>> the probe is not working, you can't read the temperature.
>>>>>>>> He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It then spun out effortlessly.
>>>>>>>> He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very 
>>>>>>>> aggressive thread lock compounds.
>>>>>>>> Heat works!!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
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