Glad you finally got it out!

On Sat, Aug 29, 2015 at 5:12 PM, Jesse Livingston <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Gents,
>
> An olympic gold metal winner cannot understand the sense of victory I have
> right now.
>
> I DID IT.
>
> Drilled a big f%$*ing hole right down the center of the probe. Just small
> enough that it wouldn't damage the threads but big enough that I could
> remove most of the probe. The nut fell off easy. From there, it was just a
> matter of carefully chiseling away the remnants of the probe within the
> threads, which peeled off after a bit.
>
> Now I have figure out a good way to get all the metal shavings at the
> bottom of the boiler lol. Ideas? I can't budge any of the parts at the
> bottom.
>
> Jesse
>
> On Saturday, August 29, 2015 at 2:27:53 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> Sorry to hear that man!  The dude at the factory must have had a bad day
>> and brazed it in, haha!
>> I'd be happy to give it a shot if you want to send it usps flat rate,
>> would be cheaper than a new boiler. Ping me off list if you'd like.
>> Best,
>> bmc
>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>
>> On Aug 29, 2015, at 11:23, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for all the help, everyone. Unfortunately, even with real vice
>> grips and a well-powered propane torch, no luck.
>>
>> My options are, two, right now. 1 order a replacement boiler ($120) or 2,
>> sell it to one of you that wants a project machine. I have all the parts
>> for the PID replacement (which I could return) but if someone is
>> interested, I could include the parts.
>>
>> Feel free to write me directly with an offer if you are interested.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jesse
>>
>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 6:05:20 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>
>>> +1, but I'd just do two faces. Can also use this trick to help the vice
>>> grips get a purchase.
>>> bmc
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 14:30, Bruce J keeler <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>> How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but
>>> smaller nut?
>>>
>>> Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to
>>> the boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter.
>>> Perhaps try the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up to
>>> operating temp then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the heck
>>> out of the nut?
>>>
>>> On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:
>>>
>>> Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally
>>> round circle :-)
>>>
>>> It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units
>>> from home depot and it worked first shot.
>>>
>>> Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]
>>> > wrote:
>>>
>>>> Brian,
>>>>
>>>> I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is
>>>> just too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could
>>>> try more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch.
>>>>
>>>> Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for
>>>> offering though!
>>>>
>>>> jesse
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will
>>>>> do it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper
>>>>> tools, you may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you
>>>>> anywhere near Seattle?
>>>>> Best,
>>>>> bmc
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>
>>>>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt
>>>>> grips that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before 
>>>>> getting
>>>>> enough pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact
>>>>> wrench, but the issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much
>>>>> force as possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the
>>>>> other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at
>>>>> this point.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> No worries, let us know how it goes!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads.
>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thank you for all the thoughts
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue,
>>>>>>> all. Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The 
>>>>>>> malfunctioning
>>>>>>> AKO is causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up. What if I 
>>>>>>> just
>>>>>>> switch the wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the 
>>>>>>> brew
>>>>>>> boiler?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have a probable solution for you.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
>>>>>>>> The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me
>>>>>>>> the PID upgrade kit.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried
>>>>>>>> many tools.
>>>>>>>> A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not
>>>>>>>> budge it.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I was on the phone several times with WLL.
>>>>>>>> Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
>>>>>>>> I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They
>>>>>>>> did.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful
>>>>>>>> repair technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.
>>>>>>>> That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could
>>>>>>>> watch them doing the repair.
>>>>>>>> He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since
>>>>>>>> the probe is not working, you can't read the temperature.
>>>>>>>> He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It then spun out effortlessly.
>>>>>>>> He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very
>>>>>>>> aggressive thread lock compounds.
>>>>>>>> Heat works!!!!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
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>> <IMG_0269.JPG>
>>
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