Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into totally
round circle :-)

It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable units
from home depot and it worked first shot.

Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.

On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston <
[email protected]> wrote:

> Brian,
>
> I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The brass is
> just too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on there. I could
> try more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch.
>
> Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/ thanks for
> offering though!
>
> jesse
>
> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>> You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more heat will do
>> it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way. But, lacking proper
>> tools, you may just need to replace. I'd help if I was close!  Are you
>> anywhere near Seattle?
>> Best,
>> bmc
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used special bolt grips
>> that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but they just slip before getting
>> enough pressure. Heating it up didn't work either. I can try an impact
>> wrench, but the issue is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much
>> force as possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not.
>>
>> I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately all the
>> other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not sure what to do at
>> this point.
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>
>>> No worries, let us know how it goes!
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the probe threads.
>>>> best,
>>>> bmc
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thank you for all the thoughts
>>>>
>>>> Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising. Here is my issue,
>>>> all. Currently, the brew boiler isn't getting any heat. The malfunctioning
>>>> AKO is causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up. What if I just
>>>> switch the wires for the brew and steam boilers? Would it heat up the brew
>>>> boiler?
>>>>
>>>> Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks again!
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4, Richard wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I have a probable solution for you.
>>>>>
>>>>> I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
>>>>> The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer stocks it and sold me
>>>>> the PID upgrade kit.
>>>>>
>>>>> I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a lot of time and tried
>>>>> many tools.
>>>>> A local plumber could not remove it. My auto mechanic could not budge
>>>>> it.
>>>>>
>>>>> I was on the phone several times with WLL.
>>>>> Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
>>>>> I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they could fix it. They did.
>>>>>
>>>>> I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and watched a wonderful
>>>>> repair technician Johnny Kemmitz solve the problem.
>>>>> That was easier for me than shipping it and as a bonus I could watch
>>>>> them doing the repair.
>>>>> He tried to remove it mechanically with tools and failed.
>>>>>
>>>>> He then let it heat up to operating temperature. Of course since the
>>>>> probe is not working, you can't read the temperature.
>>>>> He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
>>>>>
>>>>> It then spun out effortlessly.
>>>>> He said that for a few years Expobar had been using some very
>>>>> aggressive thread lock compounds.
>>>>> Heat works!!!!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
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