How about filing six edges on the now round nut to form a new but
smaller nut?
Also, in re. the heat method, remember the heat needs to be applied to
the boiler, not the nut. Heating the nut would just make it tighter.
Perhaps try the element wire switching technique to heat the boiler up
to operating temp then use an upside-down can of canned air to cool the
heck out of the nut?
On 8/28/2015 1:06 PM, William McKenzie wrote:
Well, the impact wrench will either work, or pound the nut into
totally round circle :-)
It did work for me, though. Bought one of the cheap re-chargeable
units from home depot and it worked first shot.
Yours looks a little worse than mine did when I started, though.
On Fri, Aug 28, 2015 at 2:51 PM, Jesse Livingston
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Brian,
I do have vice grips but they just slip around the brass. The
brass is just too soft – it strips even if they are super tight on
there. I could try more heat, I just don't have a very hot torch.
Well, I'm in Philly... So about as far away as I could be :/
thanks for offering though!
jesse
On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 1:25:38 PM UTC-4, bmacpiper wrote:
You need vice grips. They can grip something round. And more
heat will do it. Even seized radiator bolts come out this way.
But, lacking proper tools, you may just need to replace. I'd
help if I was close! Are you anywhere near Seattle?
Best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 28, 2015, at 09:54, Jesse Livingston
<[email protected]> wrote:
No luck on any of these solutions, unfortunately. Used
special bolt grips that supposedly grip stripped nuts, but
they just slip before getting enough pressure. Heating it up
didn't work either. I can try an impact wrench, but the issue
is, nothing will grip this nut. I can have as much force as
possible, but if the bit won't grip it, it's for not.
I'd say I just have to replace the boiler, but unfortunately
all the other boiler components are equally stuck. Really not
sure what to do at this point.
On Wednesday, August 26, 2015 at 10:40:59 AM UTC-4, bmacpiper
wrote:
No worries, let us know how it goes!
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 26, 2015, at 07:36, Jesse Livingston
<[email protected]> wrote:
Ah, just saw that in your comment Bmac. Thanks!
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 10:32:04 PM UTC-4,
bmacpiper wrote:
Again, a torch applied gently to the base of the
probe threads.
best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 25, 2015, at 13:07, Jesse Livingston
<[email protected]> wrote:
Thank you for all the thoughts
Richard, your suggestion sounds really promising.
Here is my issue, all. Currently, the brew boiler
isn't getting any heat. The malfunctioning AKO is
causing this. But... the steam boiler does heat up.
What if I just switch the wires for the brew and
steam boilers? Would it heat up the brew boiler?
Other ideas for how to get the brew boiler to heat up?
Thanks again!
On Tuesday, August 25, 2015 at 12:18:29 AM UTC-4,
Richard wrote:
I have a probable solution for you.
I had the same problem with a Brewtus II.
The original temp probe failed. WLL no longer
stocks it and sold me the PID upgrade kit.
I could not remove the temp probe. I spent a
lot of time and tried many tools.
A local plumber could not remove it. My auto
mechanic could not budge it.
I was on the phone several times with WLL.
Nothing worked. Absolutely nothing.
I spoke with Todd Salzman. He assured me they
could fix it. They did.
I finally drove up to Rochester from NYC and
watched a wonderful repair technician Johnny
Kemmitz solve the problem.
That was easier for me than shipping it and as
a bonus I could watch them doing the repair.
He tried to remove it mechanically with tools
and failed.
He then let it heat up to operating
temperature. Of course since the probe is not
working, you can't read the temperature.
He let it heat for about 20 minutes.
It then spun out effortlessly.
He said that for a few years Expobar had been
using some very aggressive thread lock compounds.
Heat works!!!!
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