Yeah, it's a huge socket.  You do have to be sure you're not tweaking all the 
attached tubing, so if it doesn't come easy I'd stop and disasssemble.

I have used citric and it works, but like you said takes a long time to clear 
it.  I now have durgol, and am looking at ways to easily detach my water line 
and draw that into the boilers instead.  Maybe an inline valve and a QD or 
something.  

b

Sent from my apple IIe

> On Dec 4, 2015, at 11:19, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
> 
> I have a shop that we use to service our trucks so I have access to an impact 
> wrench. That sounds like a much easier solution than taking it all apart. 
> I've descaled mine twice and found very little scale thankfully. It does take 
> a while to get all of the citric acid out though.
> 
>> On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 1:34 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Thanks Herman!  I hear you, hard to argue with a functioning machine.  To do 
>> the solenoid, I have to pull tubing off the old one, etc. which almost 
>> certainly involves pulling boilers, etc.  But I'll look and see if I can 
>> access through the bottom.
>> 
>> If you can hold the boiler steady, you can exchange heating elements through 
>> the bottom of the machine with an impact hammer.  But probably worth it to 
>> disassemble and descale at the same time.  I found it surprisingly easier 
>> than I'd hoped, but still a pretty big undertaking.  I'm an experienced 
>> wrench too though...
>> 
>> b
>> 
>> Sent from my apple IIe
>> 
>>> On Dec 4, 2015, at 09:36, herman dickens <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Glad you got it going again! I still haven't installed my pid. It's hard to 
>>> work on it when everything is working fine. I dread having to replace the 
>>> heating elements and I still have the original ones in it.
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Dec 4, 2015 at 12:23 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]> 
>>>> wrote:
>>>> Hey all!
>>>> 
>>>> I ordered a bunch of parts and am getting there.  As someone mentioned, it 
>>>> would seem I have two problems.
>>>> 
>>>> I replaced the PID display yesterday, and the machine heated properly and 
>>>> the PID display numbers are bright and clear.  So that part was clearly 
>>>> failed.
>>>> 
>>>> I still have some chatter, which I now know is definitely solenoid, so 
>>>> I'll bet on that being the cause (it's original, eight years old) as 
>>>> opposed to the new Giemme controller from this summer.  Man do I ever NOT 
>>>> want to tear down the machine again.  But the good news is that I don't 
>>>> have to do it immediately, the machine is working and i just need to 
>>>> switch it off if the chatter starts and then it resets.
>>>> 
>>>> Will keep you posted, and thanks as always for the help and insights.
>>>> 
>>>> best,
>>>> bmc
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>> 
>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 15:11, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Got it, thanks!  
>>>>> b
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 14:32, herman dickens <[email protected]> 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> You should have it. Good luck.
>>>>>> h
>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 5:09 PM, Ben McCafferty <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>> Yes, thanks!
>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 13:45, herman dickens <[email protected]> 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> I can email it if you'd like.
>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:34 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>> Sure, thanks.  I probably have mine somewhere, but….  :)
>>>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 1:33 PM, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> I've got a new pid unit in the box that just came in wed from wll 
>>>>>>>>>> and it has an instruction sheet in it that might help. let me know 
>>>>>>>>>> if you need it.
>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:28 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Herman, I think I have that and will look.  I agree, find 
>>>>>>>>>>> where the voltage is missing, but I’m not sure what is “normal” for 
>>>>>>>>>>> the solid state relay, etc.  Definitely have 120 there, and also at 
>>>>>>>>>>> some of the PID display unit.  Need to see where it’s *supposed* to 
>>>>>>>>>>> be going but isn’t, if that makes sense.
>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 1:13 PM, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> just find out where the voltage is dropping. If you have 114 
>>>>>>>>>>>> coming out of the pressurestat at both point you know it's not 
>>>>>>>>>>>> that. That takes care of half the machine. there's a wiring 
>>>>>>>>>>>> diagram on the brewtus compendium, I found it after I posted, and 
>>>>>>>>>>>> it shows how everything is routed. If you don't have a copy I can 
>>>>>>>>>>>> email one to you.
>>>>>>>>>>>> Herman
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:09 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> OK--making some progress.  I was looking at it backwards.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> The com/1 wire comes FROM the giemme as you said, Herman--so 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> there is 114V at the giemme, and 114V at the com/1 on the pstat.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>> So that part is OK.  I had the pstat backwards in my mind--so as 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> would be expected, the normally closed/2 terminal on the pstat 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> has 114V when steam is heating, so that part of the pstat is ok.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>> That red wire goes to the high-limit on the steam boiler, and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> then on to the steam element.  The far side of the steam high 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> limit has 114V also, so that part is also OK.  Since the steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> boiler heats, I'll call that empirical evidence that the steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> element is fine (albeit somewhat slow).
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> When the steam boiler light turns off, the voltage at NC/2 drops 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> to 0, as expected, and voltage at 4/NO jumps to 114V.  The wire 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> from 4/NO goes to the solid state relay 1/L1, and when the steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> boiler shuts off, 1/L1 goes to 118V (assume I'm just seeing 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> fluctuation in line voltage--readings have varied from 113-119V 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> throughout).
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On the relay, 2/T1 is at 0V, and 3/A1 and 4/A2 are at 118V.  The 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> PID display is flickering and dimming now independent of the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> steam boiler's operation.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 2/T1 is the wire that goes to the high-limit on the brew boiler, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and then on to the brew element.  So I think Todd's previous 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> email to me is correct, that we're looking at either PID or 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> solid-state relay.  At least I've now traced 120V all the way 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> from the giemme to the relay; from there I'll have to see if 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> there is a way to diagnose each part independently.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Still doesn't explain the chatter of the solenoid, unless that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> power comes from the relay or PID, and then if the PID was 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> failing it could be sending bogus voltage, i.e. interrupted or 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> whatever.  But there is a terminal on the giemme for "bomba" 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> (pump) and so I've always thought that the pump's power came from 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> the giemme.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Closer, but still puzzling a bit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 12:15, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I think that the pstat gets line voltage from the controller and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then sends it to the steam or brew boiler from there. I think 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it's a white wire and the voltage there should be 120.  it 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> should also output the same voltage to either the brew or steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> boiler depending on which is calling for it. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 3:07 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So riddle me this, Batman--does power come FROM the solid state 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> relay, TO the p-stat--or the other way around?  If the former, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then seems the relay is the culprit since the PID probably 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't handle line voltage to the boiler, right?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll see if I can check input to the relay.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 12:04, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At the rocker switch is 112.9.  At the outer two terminals of 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the PID with the negative held to a ground bolt on the case is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 113.2.  Center two terminals of the PID are 4 or less.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Good thought on the ground, I'll check.  That was the culprit 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> on old BMW motorcycles more times than not...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:55, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You could have a loose wire, but I doubt it. What's the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> voltage going into the pid? You could also have a bad ground. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've had that happen on other things and it causes the power 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to be all over the place.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OK, update.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> When I turn on the machine, I put a voltmeter across the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pstat terminals.  While the steam boiler was heating, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> terminals 1/com and 4/no show 60 volts.  1 and 2 of course 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> show nothing.  If I reverse wires 2/nc and 4/no, then cross 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pstat terminals 1 and 4, I get 120V.  Switching them back to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> their normal configuration, once the steam boiler is heated 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and switched off, crossing 1 and 2 shows 120V.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Now this is interesting.  I had suggested to Todd that the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flickering of the PID and the machine-gun thing make me 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thing of an under-current situation, i.e. not enough power 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to make the relay fire crisply and all the way.  I have also 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> notice lately (though it didn't occur to me as to why), that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> my steam boiler is being outrun when I steam milk.  Lastly, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it took forever for the vacuum breaker to seal shut just 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> now; and it makes sense since the steam element is only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> getting 60V.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So now the question becomes, why is reduced voltage 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> happening on this one wire?  It goes to the solid state 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> relay on terminal 1/L1.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:24, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Likewise.  It did occur to me that the pstat relies on a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flexible rubber diaphragm; perhaps that has hardened over 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> time as it sat on a shelf for three years.  Pinging Chris 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> again; also, he had offered 20%, not 10%, my mistake.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Talk soon,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bmc
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:17, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> It seems like mine was around that date too. The second 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> new one says 4/15. They could have had a bad run of pstats 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or it could just be bad luck. My last pstat lasted almost 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 8 years.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Herman.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Pstat looks like mfg date of 6/12; shouldn't matter but 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> there you go.  Chris will give 10% discount on a new one, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but still chaps my butt.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll try to pull the giemme cover and watch the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> relay--don't try this at home, kids!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I instinctively don't think the PID or element is bad, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but will try the p-stat reversal thing and see where that 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> takes me.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'll post again in a bit.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:07, herman dickens 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Ben fwiw it sounds like you have 2 problems. I had the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> same problem with a pstat and it only lasted 2 months. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The next one worked fine. There should be a mfg date on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the pstat. It seems like my first one was several years 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> old and the second one was this year. I was having the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> same symptoms with the relief valve but no chatter. The 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> chatter sounds like a relay or a solenoid. Can you pull 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the cover off and look at the relay while the chattering 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is going on? That might help narrow things down. You 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> could have a bad pid or element in the brew boiler 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> causing that not to get up to temp but honestly I don't 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> work on these things enough to do anything but guess. I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> just bought the pid upgrade for my machine but I may 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hold off on installing it for a few more days. Maybe 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Todd will jump in and give you some ideas.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Herman
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Benjamin McCafferty 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hey all!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Hope you all had a great thanksgiving and that you're 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> all waking from your food comas.  I had more pie for 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> breakfast, but alas, with no espresso.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I will be talking to Todd soon about this, but thought 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I'd also ping the collective and see if anyone has any 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ideas.  Unfortunately, I have a collection of symptoms 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> at this point that I can't make fit a common cause; 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> perhaps they will make sense to one of you.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> As you may recall, I had quite a bit of trouble this 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> summer, and during that process I replaced:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Both hi-limit switches
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --One or both boiler elements
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Giemme controller board with the updated one
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --PID temp probe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Main power switch
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --New Jaeger pressure-stat
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Also, as with this summer's shenanigans, my mom is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> visiting in two weeks, and dearly loves a good latte.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I spent several hundred on overnight charges, parts, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> etc. while she was here in the summer, and managed 2 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> days of lattes for her in her three-week visit.  Hoping 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to get the machine back in action fast!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At the same time I did all that work, I totally 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> disassembled everything, descaled completely, and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cleaned the solenoid until it was shiny, i.e. all scale 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> removed, etc.  The solenoid functioned fine with power.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The machine worked normally from summer until this 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> week, but with one weird symptom.  It would 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> occasionally make a machine-gun noise, i.e. something 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mechanical opening and closing very rapidly, 5-10 times 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> per second maybe.  To me, it is a higher pitched sound 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> than the solenoid, and sounds like it originates from 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the area of the giemme controller.  Todd suspected the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> solenoid might be sticking; I was thinking perhaps one 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of the two relays in the giemme controller was 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> misfiring (not sure that they are even relays--but I'm 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> referring to the two small sets of contacts in the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> giemme that look like points from a 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> points-and-condensor ignition).  At its worst, this 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> symptom would continue for 10+ seconds and I'd shut the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> machine off and back on; it would seem to "reset" and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> stop.  At its best, it would last for a few seconds and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> stop on its own.  It clearly is related to when the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> machine goes to refill the steam boiler, i.e. when 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> closing the steam wand, dumping hot water boiler, etc. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is when this would happen, very intermittently.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> As of a week ago, the machine-gun thing got really bad, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> i.e. it happens 4-5 times while steaming enough milk 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for a latte, etc.  When shutting off the steam wand, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> when it goes to refill, the machine-gun noise happens 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> every time and frequently does not stop.  As the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> machine sits at idle and occasionally refills the steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> boiler, it also makes the noise every time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> At this point, it would seem to me that the culprit 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> would be the giemme or the solenoid, but wait, there's 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> more...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> A few other symptoms have happened in the past week, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which really confuse the issue for me, because I 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> admittedly don't know exactly how electricity flows 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> through the machine:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --The Jaeger P-stat has allowed the machine to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> over-pressure about 3 times in 5 months, causing the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> blowoff to activate.  No way this should be happening 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with a new p-stat, but otherwise it has been normal.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> As an aside, Chris Coffee will not warrant the p-stat, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> stating 30 days is the warranty from that manufacturer. 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>  So I have a 90-day-old failing part that won't be 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> covered. Unexpected.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --The PID display (which I have set to 204F) has stayed 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> at 105F for several hours each morning for about four 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> days in a row, and then later in the day, has heated to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 204F.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --As of two days ago, the PID heated the brew boiler to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 105F and stayed there all day, never heating to 204F.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Earlier this week, one day only, the PID display was 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> blank when the machine was on.  It remained blank for 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> about an hour, then suddenly lit up.  It showed 105F.  
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Every time the steam boiler fired, the PID screen would 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> flicker and get really dim, almost not visible.  Then 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it would brighten right back up when the steam boiler 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> turned off.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Most of the time (and this is an old thing, maybe 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> normal), the PID numbers and "dot" will blink every few 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> seconds, i.e. they go off for a split second, and then 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> come back on.  The dot at this point will not stay on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> for more than a split second also, i.e. it never shows 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the boiler calling for heat once the steam boiler is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> off.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --The same day the PID display was blank and dim, there 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> was a single time where the steam boiler filled, and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then shut off (solenoid clicked), but the pump kept 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> running indefinitely.  I finally had to turn off the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> machine to make it stop.  After power cycling the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> machine, the pump filled and stopped normally again.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --At this time, the steam boiler fills and heats 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> normally, with the exception of the machine-gun noise, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> which happens almost every time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OK--I think that's it.  I'm sorry if someone has told 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> me this before, but I'm trying to understand first how 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> electricity travels in the machine.  So far, the only 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> thing that seems like a common point to all of these 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> symptoms is the giemme controller, but that's based on 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> my limited understanding.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> How I *think* it works is this:  main power switch 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> sends current to the giemme, which sends current to the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pump and to the pressure stat (via the two "relays" in 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the giemme?).  If the steam boiler is not up to temp, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the p-stat sends current to it until it is at pressure, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> then it sends current onward to the PID.  The PID sends 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> that onwards in bursts via its solid-state relay to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> heat the brew boiler.  Meanwhile, the giemme sends 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> current to the pump (via a relay?) and to the solenoid, 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> so the solenoid closes, diverting water to the steam 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> boiler, and the steam boiler fills.  When water touches 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the probe in the steam boiler, it essentially shorts 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> out and stops the pump, and the solenoid opens, sending 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> water line pressure to the brew boiler, which is held 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> back by the group.  When the lever is lifted, the lever 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mechanically opens the group to let water through, and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the switch behind the lever sends power to the pump to 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> cause it to run and push water under pressure through 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the group.  If, while pulling a shot, the steam boiler 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> level drops below its probe, the solenoid closes and 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> interrupts water to the brew boiler/group until the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> steam boiler is filled again.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Does that sound about right?  Again, I would really 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> like to understand this whole circuit, especially the 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> giemme controller and what the two mechanical contacts 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> are for on that board.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Also, my PID is about 5-6 years old by now; what is 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the expected service life of those?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --Can I safely test the PID by reversing NO/NC 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> terminals on the P-stat?  Wouldn't that have the effect 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> of prioritizing the PID first?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> OK, I'll stop.  Enjoy your leftovers, and have a good 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> coffee for me!
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Ben McC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>>>> 
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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>>>>>>> 
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>>>>>> 
>>>>>> -- 
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>>>>> -- 
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>>>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
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>>>> "Brewtus" group.
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>>>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus.
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>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "Brewtus" group.
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>>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus.
>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Brewtus" group.
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>> email to [email protected].
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>> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "Brewtus" group.
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> email to [email protected].
> To post to this group, send email to [email protected].
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/brewtus.
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