I can email it if you'd like.

On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:34 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
wrote:

> Sure, thanks.  I probably have mine somewhere, but….  :)
> bmc
>
> On Nov 27, 2015, at 1:33 PM, herman dickens <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> I've got a new pid unit in the box that just came in wed from wll and it
> has an instruction sheet in it that might help. let me know if you need it.
>
> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:28 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Herman, I think I have that and will look.  I agree, find where
>> the voltage is missing, but I’m not sure what is “normal” for the solid
>> state relay, etc.  Definitely have 120 there, and also at some of the PID
>> display unit.  Need to see where it’s *supposed* to be going but isn’t, if
>> that makes sense.
>> b
>>
>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 1:13 PM, herman dickens <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> just find out where the voltage is dropping. If you have 114 coming out
>> of the pressurestat at both point you know it's not that. That takes care
>> of half the machine. there's a wiring diagram on the brewtus compendium, I
>> found it after I posted, and it shows how everything is routed. If you
>> don't have a copy I can email one to you.
>> Herman
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 4:09 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> OK--making some progress.  I was looking at it backwards.
>>>
>>> The com/1 wire comes FROM the giemme as you said, Herman--so there is
>>> 114V at the giemme, and 114V at the com/1 on the pstat.  So that part is
>>> OK.  I had the pstat backwards in my mind--so as would be expected, the
>>> normally closed/2 terminal on the pstat has 114V when steam is heating, so
>>> that part of the pstat is ok.  That red wire goes to the high-limit on the
>>> steam boiler, and then on to the steam element.  The far side of the steam
>>> high limit has 114V also, so that part is also OK.  Since the steam boiler
>>> heats, I'll call that empirical evidence that the steam element is fine
>>> (albeit somewhat slow).
>>>
>>> When the steam boiler light turns off, the voltage at NC/2 drops to 0,
>>> as expected, and voltage at 4/NO jumps to 114V.  The wire from 4/NO goes to
>>> the solid state relay 1/L1, and when the steam boiler shuts off, 1/L1 goes
>>> to 118V (assume I'm just seeing fluctuation in line voltage--readings have
>>> varied from 113-119V throughout).
>>>
>>> On the relay, 2/T1 is at 0V, and 3/A1 and 4/A2 are at 118V.  The PID
>>> display is flickering and dimming now independent of the steam boiler's
>>> operation.
>>>
>>> 2/T1 is the wire that goes to the high-limit on the brew boiler, and
>>> then on to the brew element.  So I think Todd's previous email to me is
>>> correct, that we're looking at either PID or solid-state relay.  At least
>>> I've now traced 120V all the way from the giemme to the relay; from there
>>> I'll have to see if there is a way to diagnose each part independently.
>>>
>>> Still doesn't explain the chatter of the solenoid, unless that power
>>> comes from the relay or PID, and then if the PID was failing it could be
>>> sending bogus voltage, i.e. interrupted or whatever.  But there is a
>>> terminal on the giemme for "bomba" (pump) and so I've always thought that
>>> the pump's power came from the giemme.
>>>
>>> Closer, but still puzzling a bit.
>>>
>>> b
>>>
>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>
>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 12:15, herman dickens <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> I think that the pstat gets line voltage from the controller and then
>>> sends it to the steam or brew boiler from there. I think it's a white wire
>>> and the voltage there should be 120.  it should also output the same
>>> voltage to either the brew or steam boiler depending on which is calling
>>> for it.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 3:07 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> So riddle me this, Batman--does power come FROM the solid state relay,
>>>> TO the p-stat--or the other way around?  If the former, then seems the
>>>> relay is the culprit since the PID probably doesn't handle line voltage to
>>>> the boiler, right?
>>>>
>>>> I'll see if I can check input to the relay.
>>>>
>>>> b
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 12:04, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> At the rocker switch is 112.9.  At the outer two terminals of the PID
>>>> with the negative held to a ground bolt on the case is 113.2.  Center two
>>>> terminals of the PID are 4 or less.
>>>>
>>>> Good thought on the ground, I'll check.  That was the culprit on old
>>>> BMW motorcycles more times than not...
>>>> b
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>
>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:55, herman dickens <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> You could have a loose wire, but I doubt it. What's the voltage going
>>>> into the pid? You could also have a bad ground. I've had that happen on
>>>> other things and it causes the power to be all over the place.
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> OK, update.
>>>>>
>>>>> When I turn on the machine, I put a voltmeter across the pstat
>>>>> terminals.  While the steam boiler was heating, terminals 1/com and 4/no
>>>>> show 60 volts.  1 and 2 of course show nothing.  If I reverse wires 2/nc
>>>>> and 4/no, then cross pstat terminals 1 and 4, I get 120V.  Switching them
>>>>> back to their normal configuration, once the steam boiler is heated and
>>>>> switched off, crossing 1 and 2 shows 120V.
>>>>>
>>>>> Now this is interesting.  I had suggested to Todd that the flickering
>>>>> of the PID and the machine-gun thing make me thing of an under-current
>>>>> situation, i.e. not enough power to make the relay fire crisply and all 
>>>>> the
>>>>> way.  I have also notice lately (though it didn't occur to me as to why),
>>>>> that my steam boiler is being outrun when I steam milk.  Lastly, it took
>>>>> forever for the vacuum breaker to seal shut just now; and it makes sense
>>>>> since the steam element is only getting 60V.
>>>>>
>>>>> So now the question becomes, why is reduced voltage happening on this
>>>>> one wire?  It goes to the solid state relay on terminal 1/L1.
>>>>>
>>>>> b
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>
>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:24, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Likewise.  It did occur to me that the pstat relies on a flexible
>>>>> rubber diaphragm; perhaps that has hardened over time as it sat on a shelf
>>>>> for three years.  Pinging Chris again; also, he had offered 20%, not 10%,
>>>>> my mistake.
>>>>> Talk soon,
>>>>> bmc
>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>
>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:17, herman dickens <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> It seems like mine was around that date too. The second new one says
>>>>> 4/15. They could have had a bad run of pstats or it could just be bad 
>>>>> luck.
>>>>> My last pstat lasted almost 8 years.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 2:11 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <[email protected]
>>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Herman.
>>>>>> Pstat looks like mfg date of 6/12; shouldn't matter but there you
>>>>>> go.  Chris will give 10% discount on a new one, but still chaps my butt.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'll try to pull the giemme cover and watch the relay--don't try this
>>>>>> at home, kids!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I instinctively don't think the PID or element is bad, but will try
>>>>>> the p-stat reversal thing and see where that takes me.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'll post again in a bit.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> b
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 11:07, herman dickens <[email protected]>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ben fwiw it sounds like you have 2 problems. I had the same problem
>>>>>> with a pstat and it only lasted 2 months. The next one worked fine. There
>>>>>> should be a mfg date on the pstat. It seems like my first one was several
>>>>>> years old and the second one was this year. I was having the same 
>>>>>> symptoms
>>>>>> with the relief valve but no chatter. The chatter sounds like a relay or 
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> solenoid. Can you pull the cover off and look at the relay while the
>>>>>> chattering is going on? That might help narrow things down. You could 
>>>>>> have
>>>>>> a bad pid or element in the brew boiler causing that not to get up to 
>>>>>> temp
>>>>>> but honestly I don't work on these things enough to do anything but 
>>>>>> guess.
>>>>>> I just bought the pid upgrade for my machine but I may hold off on
>>>>>> installing it for a few more days. Maybe Todd will jump in and give you
>>>>>> some ideas.
>>>>>> Herman
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Fri, Nov 27, 2015 at 1:57 PM, Benjamin McCafferty <
>>>>>> [email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hey all!
>>>>>>> Hope you all had a great thanksgiving and that you're all waking
>>>>>>> from your food comas.  I had more pie for breakfast, but alas, with no
>>>>>>> espresso.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I will be talking to Todd soon about this, but thought I'd also ping
>>>>>>> the collective and see if anyone has any ideas.  Unfortunately, I have a
>>>>>>> collection of symptoms at this point that I can't make fit a common 
>>>>>>> cause;
>>>>>>> perhaps they will make sense to one of you.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As you may recall, I had quite a bit of trouble this summer, and
>>>>>>> during that process I replaced:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Both hi-limit switches
>>>>>>> --One or both boiler elements
>>>>>>> --Giemme controller board with the updated one
>>>>>>> --PID temp probe
>>>>>>> --Main power switch
>>>>>>> --New Jaeger pressure-stat
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Also, as with this summer's shenanigans, my mom is visiting in two
>>>>>>> weeks, and dearly loves a good latte.  I spent several hundred on 
>>>>>>> overnight
>>>>>>> charges, parts, etc. while she was here in the summer, and managed 2 
>>>>>>> days
>>>>>>> of lattes for her in her three-week visit.  Hoping to get the machine 
>>>>>>> back
>>>>>>> in action fast!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> At the same time I did all that work, I totally disassembled
>>>>>>> everything, descaled completely, and cleaned the solenoid until it was
>>>>>>> shiny, i.e. all scale removed, etc.  The solenoid functioned fine with
>>>>>>> power.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The machine worked normally from summer until this week, but with
>>>>>>> one weird symptom.  It would occasionally make a machine-gun noise, i.e.
>>>>>>> something mechanical opening and closing very rapidly, 5-10 times per
>>>>>>> second maybe.  To me, it is a higher pitched sound than the solenoid, 
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> sounds like it originates from the area of the giemme controller.  Todd
>>>>>>> suspected the solenoid might be sticking; I was thinking perhaps one of 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> two relays in the giemme controller was misfiring (not sure that they 
>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>> even relays--but I'm referring to the two small sets of contacts in the
>>>>>>> giemme that look like points from a points-and-condensor ignition).  At 
>>>>>>> its
>>>>>>> worst, this symptom would continue for 10+ seconds and I'd shut the 
>>>>>>> machine
>>>>>>> off and back on; it would seem to "reset" and stop.  At its best, it 
>>>>>>> would
>>>>>>> last for a few seconds and stop on its own.  It clearly is related to 
>>>>>>> when
>>>>>>> the machine goes to refill the steam boiler, i.e. when closing the steam
>>>>>>> wand, dumping hot water boiler, etc. is when this would happen, very
>>>>>>> intermittently.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As of a week ago, the machine-gun thing got really bad, i.e. it
>>>>>>> happens 4-5 times while steaming enough milk for a latte, etc.  When
>>>>>>> shutting off the steam wand, when it goes to refill, the machine-gun 
>>>>>>> noise
>>>>>>> happens every time and frequently does not stop.  As the machine sits at
>>>>>>> idle and occasionally refills the steam boiler, it also makes the noise
>>>>>>> every time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> At this point, it would seem to me that the culprit would be the
>>>>>>> giemme or the solenoid, but wait, there's more...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> A few other symptoms have happened in the past week, which really
>>>>>>> confuse the issue for me, because I admittedly don't know exactly how
>>>>>>> electricity flows through the machine:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --The Jaeger P-stat has allowed the machine to over-pressure about 3
>>>>>>> times in 5 months, causing the blowoff to activate.  No way this should 
>>>>>>> be
>>>>>>> happening with a new p-stat, but otherwise it has been normal.  As an
>>>>>>> aside, Chris Coffee will not warrant the p-stat, stating 30 days is the
>>>>>>> warranty from that manufacturer.  So I have a 90-day-old failing part 
>>>>>>> that
>>>>>>> won't be covered. Unexpected.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --The PID display (which I have set to 204F) has stayed at 105F for
>>>>>>> several hours each morning for about four days in a row, and then later 
>>>>>>> in
>>>>>>> the day, has heated to 204F.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --As of two days ago, the PID heated the brew boiler to 105F and
>>>>>>> stayed there all day, never heating to 204F.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Earlier this week, one day only, the PID display was blank when
>>>>>>> the machine was on.  It remained blank for about an hour, then suddenly 
>>>>>>> lit
>>>>>>> up.  It showed 105F.  Every time the steam boiler fired, the PID screen
>>>>>>> would flicker and get really dim, almost not visible.  Then it would
>>>>>>> brighten right back up when the steam boiler turned off.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Most of the time (and this is an old thing, maybe normal), the PID
>>>>>>> numbers and "dot" will blink every few seconds, i.e. they go off for a
>>>>>>> split second, and then come back on.  The dot at this point will not 
>>>>>>> stay
>>>>>>> on for more than a split second also, i.e. it never shows the boiler
>>>>>>> calling for heat once the steam boiler is off.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --The same day the PID display was blank and dim, there was a single
>>>>>>> time where the steam boiler filled, and then shut off (solenoid 
>>>>>>> clicked),
>>>>>>> but the pump kept running indefinitely.  I finally had to turn off the
>>>>>>> machine to make it stop.  After power cycling the machine, the pump 
>>>>>>> filled
>>>>>>> and stopped normally again.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --At this time, the steam boiler fills and heats normally, with the
>>>>>>> exception of the machine-gun noise, which happens almost every time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> OK--I think that's it.  I'm sorry if someone has told me this
>>>>>>> before, but I'm trying to understand first how electricity travels in 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> machine.  So far, the only thing that seems like a common point to all 
>>>>>>> of
>>>>>>> these symptoms is the giemme controller, but that's based on my limited
>>>>>>> understanding.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> How I *think* it works is this:  main power switch sends current to
>>>>>>> the giemme, which sends current to the pump and to the pressure stat 
>>>>>>> (via
>>>>>>> the two "relays" in the giemme?).  If the steam boiler is not up to 
>>>>>>> temp,
>>>>>>> the p-stat sends current to it until it is at pressure, then it sends
>>>>>>> current onward to the PID.  The PID sends that onwards in bursts via its
>>>>>>> solid-state relay to heat the brew boiler.  Meanwhile, the giemme sends
>>>>>>> current to the pump (via a relay?) and to the solenoid, so the solenoid
>>>>>>> closes, diverting water to the steam boiler, and the steam boiler fills.
>>>>>>> When water touches the probe in the steam boiler, it essentially shorts 
>>>>>>> out
>>>>>>> and stops the pump, and the solenoid opens, sending water line pressure 
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> the brew boiler, which is held back by the group.  When the lever is
>>>>>>> lifted, the lever mechanically opens the group to let water through, and
>>>>>>> the switch behind the lever sends power to the pump to cause it to run 
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> push water under pressure through the group.  If, while pulling a shot, 
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> steam boiler level drops below its probe, the solenoid closes and
>>>>>>> interrupts water to the brew boiler/group until the steam boiler is 
>>>>>>> filled
>>>>>>> again.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Does that sound about right?  Again, I would really like to
>>>>>>> understand this whole circuit, especially the giemme controller and what
>>>>>>> the two mechanical contacts are for on that board.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Also, my PID is about 5-6 years old by now; what is the expected
>>>>>>> service life of those?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --Can I safely test the PID by reversing NO/NC terminals on the
>>>>>>> P-stat?  Wouldn't that have the effect of prioritizing the PID first?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> OK, I'll stop.  Enjoy your leftovers, and have a good coffee for me!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> best,
>>>>>>> Ben McC
>>>>>>> Sent from my apple IIe
>>>>>>>
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