Second the suggestion of a pump problem.
My bilge filled up during a recent hard beat in the 4 foot chop we get in the Neuse River (long story - my fault) and the pump was not putting water overboard. I have a 1000 GPH Johnson cartridge style pump with about 24 feet of hose that outputs under the toe rail on the starboard side near the transom. Pulled the cartridge out and found the impeller blocked with a wad of hair like fibers. I'm told this is common if your shower drains into the bilge. But in my case it was fine wood debris from a plywood backing plate for one of the cockpit scuppers that I found was badly decayed with age and exposure. Cleaned out the impeller (a couple of times) and used a shop vac to get the rest of the debris out of the bilge, and the pump is working fine now Length of the hose should not be an issue if the head (height of the outlet above the pump) is only 4 or 5 feet, as it is on most of our boats. Make sure the outlet is at the top of the transom, not the bottom. A friend had a hose failure on a bilge hose with outlet a couple of inches above the waterline, and his boat almost sunk from seawater siphoning into the boat when the stern squatted while motoring. Rick Brass Imzadi C&C 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Monday, October 13, 2014 5:50 PM To: Richard N. Bush; C&C List Subject: Re: Stus-List automatic bilge pump problems Sounds like something is wrong with the pump. My check valve holds water and the hose is propably as long as anyone's. The pump has no problem. Make sure you are using the correct diameter hose and minimizing other possible restrictions such a kinks. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Oct 13, 2014 5:44 PM, "Richard N. Bush via CnC-List" <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote: Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge pump can't do its job... thanks Richard Richard N. Bush 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 <tel:502-584-7255> -----Original Message----- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > To: Tom Buscaglia <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> >; CnClist <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> > wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems along the way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to the bilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her when we got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, I needed to install one. I like state of the art electronics so I went with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead of mounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, I mounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributing to the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming on and refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. This week end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness had started when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacement switch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiring up. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doing before when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and it shut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried something because the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breaker panel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with the switch is fine as well. The manual switch is still functional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West in Seattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of the bilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run back yesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I traced the ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing water everywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump or require whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and the rotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am getting the documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, but as I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replace them to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tight to lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearing maintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com <http://www.sv-alera.com/> _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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