Dennis, et al; for the bilge, is there an alternative to having a long discharge hose going to the stern? My pump works, and there has been a check valve put in by PO, but the long hose simply holds the water and the bilge pump can't do its job... thanks
Richard Richard N. Bush 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -----Original Message----- From: Dennis C. via CnC-List <[email protected]> To: Tom Buscaglia <[email protected]>; CnClist <[email protected]> Sent: Mon, Oct 13, 2014 3:42 pm Subject: Re: Stus-List Spewing dripless If the set screws for the seal have a point, consider drilling a small detent in the shaft. Install one set screw snugly to hold the flange in position, use a small drill to make the detent in the other hole. Then install that set screw tightly with threadlocker. Remove the first screw and make a detent for it. Dennis C. On Mon, Oct 13, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <[email protected]> wrote: Went out over the week and had a great sail out, but some problems alongthe way. But I have two maintanence issues. 1. Automatic Bilge Switch problems Alera is factory wired for a manual switch and then a hot lead to thebilge to use with the switch. There was no auto switch on her whenwe got her a few years ago and since we keep her in the water all year, Ineeded to install one. I like state of the art electronics so Iwent with the fully electronic Ultima Bilge Pump Switch. Instead ofmounting the switch to a 1/4" piece of plywood as instructed, Imounted it to the floor of the Bilge directly. which may be contributingto the bad cycling problem. The first one I installed started coming onand refusing to shut down until we cycled the manual switch. Thisweek end it was so bad I just pulled the fuse. This weirdness hadstarted when we were on our summer cruise. So, I had a replacementswitch on board. I replaced the switch, but may have screwed the wiringup. It ran, but did not shut down. So, as I have been doingbefore when it would not shut down, I cycled the manual switch and itshut down...but from the way it shut down, I suspect I fried somethingbecause the switch is not working at all now. I checked the breakerpanel and all's well there. The in line fuse I installed with theswitch is fine as well. The manual switch is stillfunctional...thank god! (see 2 below!) 2 Dripping dripless bearing In March when I had her bottom painted I had the yard (Seaview West inSeattle) install a brand new dripless bearing. As a result of thebilge switch issue I decided to check the bilge on the 2 hour run backyesterday. The bilge was substantially filled. I tracedthe ingress to the dripless bearing which was spewing watereverywhere. Not enough to outpace the electric bilge pump orrequire whalegusher intervention. After we docked I checked and therotor was loose enough for me to turn it on the shaft. I am gettingthe documentation from the yard to make sure I get the right parts, butas I understand it, I should not just tighten the set screws, but replacethem to be sure they bite, then use a 2nd set crew and lock tightto lock them in place. Any thoughts on these electronic switches, alternatives, dripless bearingmaintenance or anything else? Tom B Tom Buscaglia SV Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40 Vashon Island WA (206) 463-9200 www.sv-alera.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com _______________________________________________ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: [email protected] To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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