Mike I just did the same thing with the sight glasses on my GW. I used permatex silicone and waited 24 hrs to make sure if was dry before pouring new brake fluid. It looks great, and I recommend this to anyone that needs to change its sight glass. I think glass will work much better (it won't get yellow) and last longer (it won't disintegrate!) than the OEM plastic ones.
Javier. On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 2:59 PM, Mike21222 <[email protected]> wrote: > It's finally running again. I rebuilt the master and slave cylinders > and the clutch is 100%. > Thanks to Kyle's step through, and a little help from my Clymer > manual. > The only minor issues I had, were that I had some trouble with the C- > Clip on the master cylinder, it was siezed and my ring pliers the auto > zone version did not reach far enough, so I had to work it out with > WD40 and a jewelers screwdriver until I could grip it with a > needlenose and tear it out. The slave cylinder was just as bad with > the oil seal being broken and the metal insert was rusted fast and had > to be dug out in much the same manner. The amount of hardened material > in the slave cylinder was astonishing, I wonder how the thing worked > at all. > > Oh and I did the sightglass fix too, I had a machine shop measure the > opening for the sightglass, > 16.7 mm. > I purchased 3 (minimal purchase) replacement sightglasses "watch > crystals" 16.7 mm, and I also used 5 minute epoxy (dries clear) from > Auto Zone. > The epoxy although it dried clear, is just a little cloudy, this > leaves a little bit of a cloudy ring around the edge of the glass. Not > quite perfect. > If I was to recommend it, I would suggest to used a toothpick as > opposed to the Q-Tips sticks I used for an even finer application of > the epoxy. > The result, in my opinion of course, was well worth the little extra > trouble. I plan to touch up the paint as soon as I get a few hundred > miles on it. > If you know someone who needs a sightglass let me know, I've got 2 > extra for $4 each, free shipping. > I'll send a pic in a reply in a few minutes. > Mike > > > > > On Jul 28, 7:51 pm, Mike21222 <[email protected]> wrote: > > I have a recently purchased 1984 CB650SC, it's been running fine for a > > few weeks, got the oil changed a few days ago, and new tires. and > > since then I have noticed the clutch is starting to act up. It works > > fine when the engine is cold, but once the engine gets heated up, it's > > tough to disengage the clutch. I have checked the clutch master > > cylinder, it needed fluid, I added a little DOT 3, just as the book > > prescribes. It ran fine on the way home, once I got home the clutch > > again was acting like it did not want to disengage. Anyone know what > > might be going on here? Could it be they used the wrong viscosity of > > oil? Could overheating cause this? How about the slave cylinder? There > > are no leaks anywhere. I think the bike sat for about a year before I > > bough it. I also thjink its been quite a while since someone checked > > the master cylinder because the screws were seized up and I had to tap > > them both out. I replaced them with allen screws from a fastener > > store. Any helpful suggestions out there would be appreciated. > > Mike > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group at > http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
