Tim Andrew wrote:
What do you find best for the Fuji? I used MacBibble then switched to PS CS raw but find it produces a lot of noise/banding in the dark areas/shadows and have gone back to MacBibble. I notice the Fuji S2 isn't on the CS list of supported cameras, so that's maybe why?
The fuji raw converter EX that comes with the hyperutility software gives really good results but it is very slow and extremely clunky (I'm on macs with OSX, it may be easier on windows). The way I have got round this (and I'm not saying it's the right way but it works for me!) is to photograph a colour chart with someone holding it to get skin tones in the image too. I used my normal studio lighting set up for a 'white out'. I did it this way as different studio lights will give a slightly different results, same applies to lenses too.
Open the image in The fuji software and tweak to get the best results.(and /or MacBibble) Keeping the image on screen I then opened it in Camera Raw and then tweaked till I got an image that is the same (or even better) this took quite a few attempts. Then saved this profile, so now I know when ever I use this lighting set up I can batch process the results and be pretty close (I normally do some extra tweaking when I am doing the final sizing etc).
I have now done several of these profiles for different conditions and cameras (D1X) tungsten, on camera flash etc etc.
I think you can now download a fuji upgrade for OSX (I found it a bugger to install though, depends which version of OSX you have!)
Really hope this helps
Rob
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