Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
I don't have this thermometer, and don't know if a blind person can program it. If it has a button to announce the current temperature, that helps a lot, but I don't know that either. Possibly I will just have to purchase one and see what happens. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
I just read the manual for the Oregon Talking BBQ and Oven wireless thermometer thingee. It seems that the unit announces the meat selection as you press the button, and announces the doneness selection as you change it as well. However, nothing seemed to mention that it announced the actual temperature, or that there was a way to press a button to make it announce the current temperature. So, oddly enough, it seems that a blind person can select the type of meat, and the doneness, but cannot hear the current temperature, or set a specific temperature. More investigation is required. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] old refrigerator
My guess is that they want to recover the freon, to take it out of circulation. If the fridge isn't working, it probably means that the freon has leaked out, so no benefit in recovering it. Just a guess. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
www.BlindMiceMart.com has a talking thermometer good up to 572 degrees. That's the highest temp for a talking thermometer that I know of. You can get some kind of clip for it as well to attach it to what you are measureing. You'd have to read more about it, or ask Dale Campbell for more details. Yikes, 700 degrees is hair singeing hot. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking thermometer or other solution.
How about the Oregon Scientific Talking Wireless BBQ thermometer. That sounds like it would fit the bill. Again, it only goes up to 572 degrees, but has a separate wireless probe from the talking unit. Here is a description. Well let you know when your BBQ is ready from a football field away! No need to wait by the grill to find out when dinner is readythis wireless thermometer verbally alerts you when the meat has reached the perfect temperature. Program your choice of eight entres, choose the doneness desired and youre good to grill. Digital LCD screen with remote wireless probe to identify temperature/readiness of meatSpeaks in five languages with corresponding display (English, Spanish, German, French, Danish)Sensor has temperature range from 32F to 572FProgrammable entre programs include beef, lamb, veal, hamburger, pork, turkey, chicken, and fishFour doneness selections include rare, medium rare, medium, and well doneFour verbal and audio alert options let you know the status of your mealalmost ready, ready, overcooked, and out-of-rangeAudio alarm sounds when selected temperature is reachedMain unit will receive the probe signal from up to 330 feet awayStainless steel probe detaches from sensor for easy cleaningLow battery indicator -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] advice putting up a fence
Kevin, I don't know where in the country you are, but many states have a service called one call. You need to call them and they will take care of sending someone out to mark any buried utilities. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] home owner insurance
Jennifer, Is money a motivator for your husband? I believe you have a mortgage on your home. Mortgage companies won't allow you to go without insurance. Thus, if you can't get your own insurance, the mortgage company will sell you insurance and you won't be happy with how much they will charge you either. So, you are either going to have to spend some money on repairs, or you are going to spend money on very expensive insurance. Sorry to be a downer. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!
Claudia, Using a gas grill is pretty straight forward. Turn on the tank, turn on one of the burners, punch the igniter, after you hear the woof of it igniting, you can turn on the other burners. Make sure the lid is up when you are firing it up. A talking instant read thermometer like the one you can get from BlindMiceMart, comes in quite handy. Tongs are also quite useful. Learning how to cook on it takes some practise. Expect to burn a few things at first. You will need to learn about where to put things on the grill. You can place stuff directly over the flames. You can place it forward of the flames. Or you can even turn off one of the burners, and place the food in that spot so that you are cooking with indirect heat. It's just a matter of getting used to it, but I think you will enjoy it. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] skunk spray
On Mon, 30 Aug 2010, NLG wrote: A few years ago I read in the Outdoor Life magazine that mixing a feminine douche double strength will take care of the skunk odor. Can't prove it by me...I stay away from such cridders! Which critters, skunks or feminine hygiene products? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] has anyone been inside an xbox 360 and got it working?
Blake, this is just a cautionary tale for you. I work in an I T department. We have an XBox 360 in our lounge area. Most of the guys in this group have degrees in computer science, electrical engineering, or mechanical engineering. Everyone builds their own computers, hacks their TiVos, jail breaks their IPhones. When the XBox went South, we packed it up and sent it in for repairs. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] refrigerator on timer
Lenny, So, if you are considering just saving some money, how much does a timer cost VS how much will you save in electricity? I mean, a fridge can't cost more than 6 or 8 bucks a month to run, and you would save less than a third of that. OK, so maybe you would save 20 or 30 bucks a year which would probably recover the cost of the timer in a year or so. I assume you aren't doing this to save energy, because having a second refrigerator is not really an energy saver to begin with. Hmm, can you disconnect the frost free system? Don't know if that is possible or not, but might save as well. What about selling it, and purchasing a newer, more efficient, smaller fridge? Which would probably consume less energy than the larger older fridge even with the timer scheme. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
Also, when using PEX for hot water aplications, you need to use the type with an Oxygen barrier. If you don't, it will degrade the PEX pretty quickly. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?
I was under the impression that you could bend it a bit tighter than a three foot radius. In my investigations into underfloor hydronic radiant heating, PEX is often used. To be able to make a 180 degree turn from one joist bay to the next, the maximum curve would have to be less than about 29 inches. And that doesn't seem to be any problem at all. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney
Dale, Welcome back. Will have to give you a call to talk about your vacation tramping about the UK. After talking with several folks, it does seem more than possible to support the weight of a chimney on the floor joists above. However, there are two issues. Firstly, I think that is just more of a renovation than we are willing to put into this house. Secondly, I would hate to get a contractor started on this project only to find an ugly issue like, I don't know what we will find inside the chimney. This is a town house, this chimney is on the shared wall, it only sticks out of the shared wall about 7 inches, so I think there is a good chance that the chimney liner is also shared between the two houses. If I decided to remove my half, it might make for a much bigger issue for the other half. Anyway, we have come up with a design that works around the chimney. Our initial design had us stripping the plaster from the bricks of the chimney, putting a shallow depth cabinet in front of the lower part, and putting a pot rack on the upper half. Our new design has us putting the oven with a microwave hood in front of the chimney so we won't bother stripping the plaster since it will be covered anyway. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Raddling heat pump
Scott, There is always a way. If they can jack up a house and rebuild the foundation, you can jack up your heat pump. *GRIN* I don't envy you the job of digging under it, or trying to stuff concrete under there, but it sounds doable. You may wish to dig a nice trench along the uphil side of the pad and then along the front edge. Lay in a bunch of gravel, a perforated pipe wrapped in a mesh sock, more gravel, and cover. The pipe will run along the uphil side, then turn and go down along the front edge. This will carry the water away without it washing out under the pad. Happy digging. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney
We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more. Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper part from the ceiling joists. Does this sound realistic? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney
I think that is why he is suggesting only removing the middle of the chimney, don't have to deal with the roof issues and such. I think that removing the entire thing would get to be more of a project than we really want to invest in this tiny house. I'd rather keep the whole thing than remove the whole thing. The contractors point of view was that the weight of the upper part of the chimney isn't all on the ceiling joists because it is all mortared together. My point is that mortar isn't forever, and it isn't great in tention. I think it is more work and cost than we really want to do. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Yes, Can hot water freeze faster than cold water?
I'm with Max. It doesn't appear that this is consistently repeatable. And, lest anyone thinks this will save them money, thinking that since hot water freezes faster than cold, and thus you start making all your ice cubes with hot water, that is absolutely untrue. That would definitely be in violation of conservation of energy, not to mention that you would be heating the water first, then cooling it down, so you would be doubly wasting energy. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] box formula
To calculate the angle of the cut for a box, you divide 360 degrees by the number of sides of the box, then divide that by two. For example, on a four sided box, 360 divided by 4 equals 90 degrees per corner, 90 divided by 2 equals 45 degrees per cut. To make it more simple, 360 divided by two times the number of sides. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] box formula
Spiro, We said the same thing. you said 360 / 2 / x I said 360 / 2*x I should have put parenthesis around my 2*x) but the result is the same. On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Spiro wrote: sorry Dan, divided by the number of sides 360/2/x On Fri, 16 Jul 2010, Dan Rossi wrote: To calculate the angle of the cut for a box, you divide 360 degrees by the number of sides of the box, then divide that by two. For example, on a four sided box, 360 divided by 4 equals 90 degrees per corner, 90 divided by 2 equals 45 degrees per cut. To make it more simple, 360 divided by two times the number of sides. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Painting a tin roof.
Jeff, Thanks for the input. If oil based paints are not to be used on galvanized metal, what would they have used 80 years ago? I believe that water based paints weren't around that long ago. Nothing I read so far mentioned this problem with Zinc and oil based paints. although I just found a page on Sherman Williams that mentions the problem. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Tin or galvanized
It appears from most readings, that tin roofs are just galvanized steel. The process of dunking steel sheets into molten Zinc was called tinning. Do I actually need to determine if my roof is really tin, or just Zinc coated steel? After 80 years, is there any Zinc left or has it all been consumed by now? Do I just stop over analyzing this and go slap on some paint? I have now read about oil based paints reacting with Zinc, but am still trying to find out what the best solution is. I appreciate many of the suggestions, but one issue is that I need to be able to paint the roof red so that it doesn't stick out like a black eye in the neighborhood. I believe it would look stupid to have one silver or white roof and 19 red roofs around the courtyard. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Considering building my own apple drier or dehydrator
If you build a dehydrator, you haven't saved any space over buying one. By the time you build one, you could purchase one, maybe. The one you purchase can run all year, where if you have one that can only run in the warm weather, well, it can only run in the warm weather. Having said that, I would never really deter someone from taking on a project. So go for it. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] last to tip
On my laptops, I have not had any issue with using standby mode, however, hibernate mode has caused issues. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Painting a tin roof.
Anyone have experience painting a tin roof? My porch roof is tin and is need of a little TLC. Everything I've read so far basically says: Scrape or sand, thoroughly wash with soap or TSP, dry, prime, paint two coats. Any recommendation or disrecommendation for paints to use? My neighbor just painted his porch roof and is now offering to paint everyone's porch roof, for a fee. I think his fee is too high, and he did some cursory scraping of loose rust and peeling paint, didn't wash, didn't prime, and used one coat of rustoleum paint. I don't think that will hold up, but I'm no painter. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Painting a tin roof.
As I was writing my original question about painting a tin roof, I said to myself, Self, I bet Cy will have done this before, he's going to be the man with the answer. Thanks, and glad to see you back on the list. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners
Jim, The air conditioners that have the compressor outside, and the individual chillers in the rooms are called split minis, mini split units, ductless air conditioners, and possibly one or two other things. A search on split mini or ductless air conditioner should find you a lot of hits. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners
Alan, A ductless system is a great way to get something like central air in a house that does not have a forced air heating system. My house uses hot water radiators, so I do not have ducts already installed. To install a ducted system would be a very difficult retro-fit. A ductless system is much easier, because you only need to run small coolant lines rather than large ducts through the house. You could even run them on the outside of the house. So it is a much simpler retro-fit if you want AC in multiple rooms without having to use several window air conditioners. Also, since the compressor is separate from the chillers, it is much much quieter in the rooms than window air conditioners are. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners
Brice, If you just use a ductless system for air conditioning, and not for heating, it is no less efficient than any other air conditioner. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] airconditioners
Bill, I don't actually know how a split mini compares with a forced air system for power consumption. Could be an interesting comparison though. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system
al, My ratchet strap was long enough for my purposes, but then again, my deck boards run at 45s from each side, so I had more options for attaching the strap and smaller distances to traverse. You can always just tie a rope to one end of the strap and tie the other end of the rope to something solid. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system
When I built my deck, I used pressure treated deck boards. They were quite wet when I purchased them. I clamped the hell out of them when I attached them to the joists, to get them as tight together as possible. I now have gaps as much as a quarter inch along most of the planks. If using pressure treated lumber that isn't kiln dried, I would not leave any gaps when laying down the boards. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
On Tue, 22 Jun 2010, John Sherrer wrote: Ozone is part of nature, such as a lightening strike, when you can smell the ozone. This cleanses the air and land. This is the good ozone. Um, OK. However, lightning also causes forest fires, which are part of nature, and important to the generation of new growth, but I don't want fire in my house. Carbon Dioxide is also found naturally in the environment, and very important to plant growth. I don't want a CO2 generator in my house either. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
Lenny, Thanks very much for this link. It was an interesting read and I will send it to everyone who tells me that Ozone generators are a good thing. John, I guess you were right, there is good Ozone and bad Ozone. Good up high, bad near by. Ozone in the upper atmosphere is vital to the Earth, but a serious pollutant at ground level. So you are, in fact, generating the bad kind of Ozone in your house. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
John, Did you get the same link to open that Lenny sent to the list? The entire article was about Ozone generators and indoor air quality. Here is the link again. EPA statement on indoor Ozone generators http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/ozonegen.html -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Air Purification Systems
The good kind of Ozone? which version of o3 is the good kind and which is the bad kind? O3 is O3. At high concentrations, Ozone is a pretty nasty pollutant. Think of it this way, it is used as a disinfectant because it quote kills the microbes that come into contact with it. People may be larger than microbes, but we operate on a lot of the same principles. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse
Al, Just stumbled on the Lowes special. It was $159. I saw it for $159 on a couple of web sites, but depending on shipping cost, VS local sales tax, I was pretty close to the cheapest I could get. I might have saved less than ten bucks had I gone with one of the internet deals, but I figured, I was there, it was there, I could walk out with it, and no issues with returns if I changed my mind. So, the Jaw Horse is now sitting in my basement. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse
The horse weighs 43 pounds so there is definitely some heft to it. but it makes it feel pretty solid. I haven't done anything with it yet, short of taking it out of the box and setting it up and trying to get used to it's parts. One review I read said to make sure you don't try and clamp it with the switch in the unlock position. I am not exactly sure how the whole clamp thing works yet, so I am going to have Teresa take a look at the manual just to make sure I know what locked and unlocked means. There is a slide switch on the front, but from 30 seconds of toying with it, I'm not sure exactly what that switch does. I was able to slide the jaws, by hand, with the switch in either position. I think it has to do with the foot peddle though. It comes with a CD / DVD, I brought the disk to work with me today, but don't hold much hope that it will offer anything useful to a blink. I'll give it a shot and let you know what I find. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] JawHorse Manual
I didn't have much luck with the DVD, there isn't anything on it other than videos. I did find the PDF User Manual on the web though. Not much to it. Basically, with the lock release switch in the up / release position, you manually slide the moving jaw and clamp the work piece between the two jaws. Then flip the lever down to the lock position and use the foot peddle to apply pressure. The foot peddle will lock in place. You can use the foot peddle to slide the moveable jaw as well. It moves one inch per peddle push. TO release, flip the lever up, and press down on the foot peddle to release it. The lever should be in the release position when you fold up the unit. That's about all I got out of it. Other than things like don't burn it, use it as a hammer, blah blah blah. The foot peddle will take 220 pounds, don't jump on it. Maximum clamping force is 2200 pounds. Guess that means there is a 10 to 1 ratio between downward force on the peddle and clamping force. Happy horsing. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
I just picked one up today. They were having a special at Lowes, and I had a gift card. It has three legs, two in front, and one further back along a rail. The top rail holds two clamping jaws. They can open to about 24 inches I think. There is a foot peddle that you can use to close the jaws of the clamp. The jaws extend beyond the legs so that you can hold items by their edge, vertically. The picture shows a door being held vertically in place while the hinges are positioned on the door jam. The claim is that clamping force is 2200 pounds. Looks pretty handy. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
Does anyone have the JawHorse? It sounds pretty slick, but possibly one of those things that sounds a lot slicker than it actually is in practice? wood.toolIDay.com has it for $149 plus $6 shipping which is about 25 bucks cheaper than anywhere else. I'm thinking of asking Sofia for one for fathers day. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse
Shane, What was your impression of the JawHorse? Did you think it was useful? Did you covet it? Did you drool on it? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options
Al, My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge. If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner. Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails. I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Patching cement.
Every time I go to a big box store and look at the small buckets of cement mixes, I come away quite confused. There are no less than 20 different buckets claiming to be exactly what you need to patch a hole in cement, a crack, this one you can feather out to an eighth of an inch, that one can be used to anchor a railing. Blah blah blah. Here is what I need to do. What do I need to do it? The main stairs to the courtyard are deteriorating. It will be big bucks to replace them. We are looking into that, but I would like to make some temporary repairs. The soil under the steps has subsided over the last 90 years, so the cement is actually suspended in the air. At the landings there are I beams supporting the slab, but that's not important at the moment. A couple of holes have opened in the cement slab. I can actually stick my cane right through the cement and down another six or eight inches to the dirt below. The holes are several square inches in size. I want to patch the holes. I figure I can jam some largish rocks into the opening then pack in cement around those rocks. So, is there another way that I should consider? What kind of cement patch material should I be looking for? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement stairs
Dale, Believe it or not, the jig I built far exceeded my expectations of accuracy. The treads do not walk forward or backward on the stringers, and more surprisingly, the left and right dados match up perfectly. I did have to do a bit of hand sanding on the one set of dados to get the treads to fit, but it came out better than I expected. The big issues were getting the length of the stringers wrong, positioning the first step a bit forward of where I wanted it, and making one or two basic mistakes in tool handling. I don't believe I'll be building any more steps for a while, but I think the experience was a good one and if I ever do need to build a set of stairs again, they will be perfect. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] o-rings for router bits.
I just watched a Wood Smith Shop tip and it talked about using o-rings on the shaft of your router bits to keep the bit from slipping. I've not heard of this. Does anyone have experience with these? Is there any concern about the o-ring melting? No matter what you do, you are going to generate some heat when spinning a bit at 18K RPM against a piece of wood. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] older homes - what to look for
Scott, You don't know what an old house is. Built in the fifties is like brand new. *GRIN* My house was built in the twenties, and one of the Toms on the list is working on a house that's over a hundred years old. Get a home inspector to go through the house. He can find lots of issues if you want. Check the wiring to make sure it is grounded to all outlets and such. I don't think they started using Aluminum wiring until the sixties, so you should be OK there. Look for cracking in the foundation walls. Look for patches in the ceilings to see if there has been issues with water damage in the past. Do doors and windows open and close without binding. That can mean something as innocent as a poorly hung door, or just humidity expansion, but can also indicate shifting of the house. I'm sure you will get many other responses for things to look for as well. But a home inspection by a pro can be very useful. You can also get an inspection by a structural engineer if you are so inclined. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Basement stairs
I can now mostly, safely, traverse from the first floor of my house, to the basement, without having to leave the house. The last step is a bit of a doozy since I haven't completed the landing, so there is a double-high step at the bottom. As per usual, my design far exceeded any actual skill I might possess. Overall, I believe the stairs look pretty nice, albeit, with a few imperfections showing here and there. On two or three of the treads, the nose does not seat completely against the stringer, leaving a very slight gap. There is one noticeable notch in the corner of a tread where I made a booboo with my router. I was using a plunge router with the multi-step little doodad. Well, I turned the doodad the wrong way, and instead of plunging 1/4 of an inch, I plunged 3/4 of an inch before I realized what I did. Apparently, looking from the bottom up, the illusion is that the steps are sloping. The problem is that the treads are dead level, but the kitchen floor isn't. So when you are looking up the stairs, you see a noticeable difference between the edge of the top tread, and the kitchen floor. I completely screwed up the bottoms of the stringers, but can essentially compensate for that when I build the landing. I routed a decorative Roman Ogee profile on the inside top edge of the stringers. Lifting the stairs into place was challenging, but not impossible. I just kept lifting the upper end and wedging boards between the floor and one of the treads, until it was wedged into place. I hope to finish the lower landing this week, then I just need to think about a railing at some point. I'm just happy to be able to walk up and down to and from the basement again. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Split mini
Jim, I am still trying to sort out just how much these things cost. I've seen things calling themselves split minis for a single zone, for about 700 bucks. But I have also seen two and three zone units for four grand. So I am not completely convinced they are the same animal. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Split mini
Bob, How much insulation is required on the lines running from the compressor to the chillers? More accurately, I guess, how bad are the losses between the compressor and chillers? Obviously, there are a lot of variables, like how far apart, and are you running them through the hot attic verses a cool basement. One concern I have is that if I get a professional installation, they will just run the lines on the outside of my house, where I would run the lines inside the walls. How likely is a leak in these lines? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Step lively.
Yeah, I am still working on the basement stairs. Since the stringers were short, I decided to just move them 3.5 inches straight up. This has the effect of moving the treads further into the stringers. I chose 3.5 inches because it was roughly correct, and I had some chunks of 4X4 I could rest the bottoms of the stringers on while setting things up. I got the one stringer in place, then very very carefully located and screwed in, a chunk of 2X10 exactly where the first tread would go. I then built a jig that would enable me to rout out the riser and tread dados. I set the jig over that registration chunk of 2X10. This allowed me to attach a chunk of 2X4 to the back of the jig right along the edge of the stringer. I clamped it in place, removed the registration block and routed the first tread. Then all I had to do was release the clamp, slide the jig down the length of the stringer, and by lining up the top of the riser slot in the jig, to the bottom front corner of the routed tread, I was ready to routt out the next riser and tread dado. It worked amazingly well. The nose of the treads didn't walk forward or back on the stringer at all. I then propped both stringers in place. I placed a tread in the dado on the one tread, then carefully leveled it, and marked exactly where it hit the other stringer. I got as far as setting the registration chunk of 2X10, but haven't routed out the second stringer yet. I am at least making progress. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Check your lumber.
I had asked a buddy of mine to give me a hand picking out the lumber for the basement stairs, and helping me get it home. I asked him to carefully check the boards for integrity, are they straight, are they checked at the ends. He assured me that we got some beautiful boards. When I cut that first little registration chunk, about 1.5 inches long, off the end of one of the 2X10 boards, it literally fell in half, a split running right through it. So, I cut another 1.5 inches. It fell in half. So, I cut a third 1.5 inches. That one didn't fall in half, but when I picked it up and flexed it slightly, it broke in half. The fourth chunk wouldn't break in my hands, but I can kind of feel the split in it. So, hopefully after six inches of my board are gone, I might actually have some usable lumber. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line
If it is the main water line coming into the house, you can only fix it. Anything that you would dump down the drain would kill the roots in the sewer line. You can't dump anything down the incoming water line, it don't work like that. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Split mini
A split mini, or ductless airconditioner, has the compressor unit separate from the cooling loops and fan. So, you put the big noisy compressor outside the house, then run the freon lines to wall mounted units inside the house where the fan is. You can have multiple units inside the house, for each room. You can essentially get central air without ductwork and they are significantly more quiet than window AC units. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Split mini
Does anyone have experience with split mini air conditioners? I am trying to find information about a two zone, or possibly three zone model. I've just started looking but so far, the multi-zone units seem to be heating and cooling. I just want cooling. Does anyone know what the maximum run for the lines is? Or at least, my thought is that the compressor would go in the back of the house near the ground, but I would want the cooling units on the second floor. So, up the back, to the attic then across the house, maybe a total run of about 40 feet for the further of the two units. Any pointers would be appreciated. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Split mini
I've started to stumble onto some useful information. I can get multi-zone cooling only units. And the line runs seem to be reasonable. I saw a quad unit, each unit 9000 BTU, the maximum tubing length, total, is 230 feet, with a maximum elevation of 50 feet. Some of these puppies are seriously quiet as well. At least the indoor portion is. One claims a 19DB rating, which is pretty damn quiet. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve
Al, Maybe I don't understand you, or maybe I don't understand Shark bite or pex. If you have Copper line, and you are installing a valve, or replacing an existing valve, you need a shark bite valve. If you have pex, or are running new lines, then you can use either a shark bite, or pex valve on a pex line. I believe that there are specific valves for pex, but I am pretty sure that shark bite valves will work on either Copper or pex. Hope I haven't confused things. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve
Al, I think there are others better qualified to answer your question here, but if you are cutting a Copper line, and want to install a shut-off valve, I think your options are a regular valve that has to be sweated on, a compression fitting, or a shark bite. I don't think that PEX comes into play at all here, other than the fact that I think shark bites can do both PEX and Copper. When you go to the hardware store, just explain it like you did here. You are cutting a Copper line, and just installing a shut-off inline. I agree with Dale that you want a ball valve. I had most of the valves in my basement replaced with ball valves, including one just above the main shut-off. I haven't noticed any reduction in flow. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
Dale, Interesting. I hadn't thought about dadoing the treads and risers into the stringers. I was just going to screw pieces of 2X4 to the stringers and screw or nail the treads down to the 2X4s. How deep would you dado? Quarter inch? Half inch? I wasn't certain about the wedging. Do you mean you cut the dado just a bit longer than the length of the tread and then wedge behind the tread? So, if you are doing blind dados, and using a three quarter straight bit, don't you end up with funky ends to the dado that you have to clean up? How do you physically attach the treads to the stringers? Or don't you? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
Darrin, I would love to have used the pre-cut stringers, but there were a couple of issues. Firstly, I couldn't find full length stringers at my local Lowes. They only had six steps, I think was the longest. I didn't feel like having to connect them together to make them long enough. Secondly, I could only find treated lumber stringers, and Teresa didn't want any more treated lumber than was necessary. Let's not get into it here. Lastly, and most importantly, I was very constrained to a fairly steep slope if you didn't want to smash your head on a header on your way down the stairs. The pre-cut stringers are cut with a much more reasonable slope which would have been too shallow for my constraints. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
Alan, I agree with you that dadoing will be much more work, and offer many more chances for me to fuck up and have to start again. But you know me well enough now, that more work and complexity just calls to me. *GRIN* -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.
I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B, but it seems quite sturdy. As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs, which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites. This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get. Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was frustrating. Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away, and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be. Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different angle. I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through today, so one more week without steps I guess. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Putting in a basement floor
Tom, Come on, 12 feet squared by 4 inches thick would only be 96 80 pound bags of cement. Child's play. How about if you pour a few footers, then just build a deck on top of the footers. How much head room do you have? The footers don't need to be more than an inch or two above the dirt. but the joists would add depth. At 12 by 12, I think you could get away with four footers pretty easily. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] SoniCrafter tool.
ToolIday has a Rockwell RK5100K SoniCrafter for sale today. This is one of these multi-tools that uses high frequency oscilation to perform everything from sanding, to cutting and grinding of everything including wood, metal, plastic, masonry, blah blah blah. I think it restores your hairline and increases your virility as well. For all I know, it picks up your dirty socks and puts them in the hamper for you. Anyway, has anyone ever used one of these things? Is it the case of it does everything poorly rather than doing one thing well? Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Calculators
Why don't you just use the calculator in windows? It's free, it's right there, and quite powerful. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] computer won't start
And by the time you have finished replacing the drive, possibly the power supply, purchasing a set of usb to various connectors, you could have purchased a referb with four times as much memory, and probably scads more hard drive space. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] supporting outdoor steps?
John, I was all ready to write this snarky response about digging massive footers, many bags of concrete, blah blah blah. All to support a couple of steps. Then I realized you are in Florida, which means your water line is down around six inches or so, which might be problematic for digging those deep footers. You said you are using bricks. Are these the regular brick sized bricks, like 2 or 3 inches by 8 inches long? If so, maybe you could try using some large stepping stones instead. This could help to spread out the weight over a larger area and might prevent the stones from sinking as quickly. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
You guys do realize that there is a link to the non-yahoo archives at the end of each and every message sent to this list? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Re: list archives
Tom, I use pine and lynx part of the time, and I was able to click on the mail archive link in the footer and it worked fine. I seem to vaguely remember some issue with trailing slashes, but not sure if there was some config change I made to fix that. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
Spiro, Yes, I can easily get the pig out of the basement and to the yard, there are only three steps up now. So, I would definitely drag it out of the basement for the destruction. Regardless, I would still have to haul the pieces down the stairs to the street. I won't have to worry about that for a couple of months though. One major project at a time. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
Max wrote with regard to the removal of my cast iron radiator: I'm betting that you will end up cutting it into smaller pieces to get rid of it. Maybe with a cutting torch? OOO BABY! Now that sounds like fun. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
I attempted to disassemble the radiator way back when, but it seemed that I would need to cut at least the first section off since the bolts holding it together were not inclined to move. And, with 90 plus years of paint on it, I am not sure how inclined the pieces would be to separate of their own accord. I could try getting someone to come take it away for scrap, but my guess is that they might take one look at where I live and decide it isn't worth the few bucks they would get to scrap the thing. If I decide not to hook it up for heat in the basement, I am sure that judicious use of a sawsall with hack saw blade, sledge hammer, and crow bar, will convince the various sections to disengage themselves. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] OT? Talks for Verizon
Yeah, that one talks list is for the symbian version of Talks. The version that runs on the Motorola isn't really even Talks. It's just branded as Talks. I asked around but no one seems to know about a mailing list for that version specifically. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
Over the weekend, I finally ripped down the basement stairs as part of the basement finishing project. I will build new steps once I finish the floor. I knew that the stairs were pretty badly compromised by termite damage, it was visibly obvious. However, when I ripped down the stairs it was pretty horrifying to see just how bad the damage was. Firstly, the stringers for the steps had been put in place before the cement floor was poured, so that is how the termites got access. The stringers went right through to the dirt. I expected to have to dig out some old wood from these holes before patching with cement. Well, the termites had taken care of that for me. I literally just vacuumed out the dust, there were no pieces of wood at all. Several of the treads I was able to just lift off since the wood around the nails had been completely eaten away. A couple of the treads broke in half as I pried them off. The treads had been seriously compromised as well. After I had removed about four or five treads, the lower part of the one stringer just fell off the wall. The wood of that stringer was just layers of paper and dust. What I mean is that the termites ate parts of the wood, but not others, so it made this weird layering effect. You could actually flick through the 2 by 12 like it was a deck of cards or the pages of a book. Absolutely amazing to see the extent of the damage these little insects can cause. Not termite related, but the upper end of the outer stringer was also pretty scary to see. It only overlapped the surrounding joists by about half or three quarters of an inch. There were several nails driven in at crazy angles, some of them barely catching wood in both connecting pieces. Anyway, I cemented in the holes in the floor. laid down the last two joists, but since I need to cut the larger sheets outside, and it was raining, I didn't get any further than that. Hopefully, the floor will be done next weekend and I can start on the stairs. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.
, but the pig is now safely ensconced in the basement. We had beers all around and went out for dinner. Today, Teresa and I put the house back in order and we are fast approaching doneness on the living room. WOOHOO! What a deal. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] touch friendly phone
Lenny, Do you mean a regular land line phone or a cell phone? There are plenty of large button landline phones out there. There are a couple of large button cell phones as well, I bet that the AARP site probably has goodinfo. Also, a lot of the cell phones / providers have voice activated dialing. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
I use a lever pad lock on my locker. It is pretty easy to use, and very easy to set. I've noticed that after a couple of years, it does get very finicky and tends not to want to lock again. You get what you pay for. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks
I don't actually remember where I got it last time, probably target or Home Depot. Yeah, they are pretty easy to pick, just pull a bit of tension on the loop and start flipping levers. They keep out the lazy thieves. If someone is that intent on getting in though, I doubt a basic lock will do much for you anyway. A long time ago, when I had good hearing, I was able to pick cheap combination locks by listening for the tumblers. Haven't been able to do that for 25 years though. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] handywoman question- needle threaders
I just staple everything. Much easier than trying to thread a needle. *GRIN* -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] 14 gauge vs 12 gauge extension cord
This is not a very useful response to your question, Lenny. I have no idea about the losses, but I will comment on your problem with coiling the long extention cords. From my days in rock climbing, I learned that a regular circular coil is not the best way to handle long ropes. With each loop, you put a full twist into the rope, then when you drop the rope, it tends to twist up and even get into tension knots. We use what is called a butterfly or back packer coil. I don't think I can explain it here without it sounding much more complicated than it really is. Much easier to show someone than explain it. Anyway, that is how I package up my long extension cords and they are much better behaved than when I just try to coil them into a continuous loop. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
OK, so on the Kenmore we just got, it is essentially accessible. When It has a knob, but it isn't a mechanical knob, I mean it spins and such, but isn't physically selecting the cycles. When you hit the power button, the knob is essentially in limbo. If you give it one click to the left or right, it doesn't matter which, it selects normal load. From that point, if you turn it to the right you will select the various load cycles, heavy, permanent press, delicates, blah blah blah. Each of these selections defaults to a certain set of presets for size of load, presoak, water temperature, blah blah blah. There is a series of buttons that allow you to override some of the presets for a a given cycle. I haven't figured out if I can use these yet. Although, I think that the vast majority of times I will be able to stick to the standard cycles. So, it's not perfect, but at least I can use it, unlike the microwave they just installed in our office kitchen. Not a button or dial anywhere on the thing, and a totally flat panel. I think I can put some braille stickers on it, but needed help to heat up my lunch today. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
Brice, These are tap con that is t,a,p,c,o,n screws, not tapping screws. They look like a regular screw, although the threads look a bit different. They are specially designed to hold in cement or brick. Just drill a hole, and twist them in. No shields, no nuts, just screw them in. They hold quite well. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Brice Mijares wrote: Dan, so, do you you drill a hole with a masonry bit, lets say a quarter of and inch, then run in the tap con screw that's 5/16 to 3/8 of an inch? Precisely. Most of the time, the right sized bit comes with the screws, sometimes it just tells you the correct size bit. The tolerances are pretty tight, I think 1/32 to 1/16 difference between the bit size and the screw size, depending on the size of the screw. - Original Message - From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 7:36 AM Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws Brice, These are tap con that is t,a,p,c,o,n screws, not tapping screws. They look like a regular screw, although the threads look a bit different. They are specially designed to hold in cement or brick. Just drill a hole, and twist them in. No shields, no nuts, just screw them in. They hold quite well. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel: (412) 268-9081 __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5013 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 5013 (20100409) __ The message was checked by ESET Smart Security. http://www.eset.com Send any questions regarding list management to: blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com To listen to the show archives go to link http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29 Or ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/ The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is. http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List Members At The Following address: http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/ Visit the archives page at the following address http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/ If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address for more information: http://www.jaws-users.com/ For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to: blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
Al, That's bull. I've purchased at least two different diameters of TapCons. I think possibly three though. They definitely come in various lenghts. I used some big-ass 1/4 inch by 4 inch long TapCons to mount the framing for my basement door, on the hinge side. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] purchasing a new washing machine!
Just purchased a Kenmore from Sears. Haven't tried using it yet, there were a lot of issues getting the new washer and dryer delivered. It is a front-loader. It has some soft buttons and a dial, but the dial appears to be a multi-function kind of thing. I'll have to get back to you after the weekend to let you know how blind friendly it is. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] ladder hooks
Get a couple of hooks and just use some big TapCon screws to fasten them to the wall. Make sure you drill into the brick or block and not the mortar joints. You'll need a hammer drill, but the TapCons should come with the proper sized masonry bit. You should be able to find large Aluminum tubes bent into hooks for this purpose. I used something like these to hang my tandem bike from the joists in the basement. Any big box store should have them. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
I agree with Dale. You can certainly drill a hole in block with a non-hammer drill, but it could be a lot more work, and make for sloppy holes. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.
Jewel wrote: Betsy! Dan can't fall back on the excuse that he was full of youthful stupidity and impetuousness because he and Teresa only bought their castle in the clouds about 4 years ago; mightn't have even been that long! Jewel, Your memory is quite good. It will be five years in August that I purchased this house. Can I fall back on the excuse that I am full of mature stupidity and impetuousness? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] blocked drain
Depends on the drain. You can always use a snake, but typically you will have to get your hands a bit wet to get it started. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] orientification
Al, O S B is oriented Strand Board. It seems to be a cross between plywood and particle board. It is made up of long strands of wood, but rather than being randomly glued together, the strands are aligned in specific patterns. The How Stuff Works article claims that plywood and OSB are pretty similar in strength and durability, but that OSB is susceptible to swelling if exposed to moisture after it is cut. Does anyone know how to seal cut ends of OSB? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.
Yesterday morning, the truck carrying my lumber order showed up at the bottom of the stairs. I struck an agreement with the two guys, that they would back the truck right up to the steps, pull their ramp to the first landing, which skips the first 10 steps, then hand carry to the long landing, which is another 10 or so steps. For that, I'd give them an extra 10 bucks each. Then I would have to carry the lumber from the end of the long landing, up another 25 steps, down the courtyard, around the house, and into the basement. This not being my first time at this, I broke out my tools, a 20 foot long length of flat tubular webbing. With this, and a fist full of Ibuprofen, I can move just about anything. I don't think I can accurately describe this. I tie the webbing into a large loop. I then stack up some lumber on top of a couple of bricks. I slide one end of the boards through the loop of webbing. I then crouch down next to the lumber, with the stack of boards to my right. I pull the doubled webbing up my back and over my left shoulder, then down in front of me. I take the doubled webbing and wrap it around the stack of boards twice, leaving enough of the end for me to hold. When I stand up, all the weight of the lumber is on my shoulder, not my hands or arms. Even the free end of the webbing has very little tension on it because the friction of it against the wood holds it in place. It makes it quite easy to haul the lumber for any distance. Because I had a mix of treated and untreated lumber, it reminded me of just how damn heavy the treated boards are. Lastly, my handy dandy, brand new, panel carrier did not come in handy. I tried hauling one of the OSB sheets with it, but it was just to damn heavy. So I tried looping the webbing around my shoulder and then hooking the handle of the carrier through the loop. No joy. Still too heavy to maneuver it up the stairs. So I ended up ratchet strapping the boards to a dolly. it took a long time, but I eventually got everything up there. I'm hurtin today. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] orientification
The main advantage of OSB over plywood is that it is usually cheaper. I think plywood is probably a bit better structurally. Also, some OSB is made without formaldehyde based glues, so can be considered greener than plywood. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Hauling lumber.
Let's see. I probably didn't give as much thought to hauling things up to, and down from, my house when I purchased it as I should have. I can't say I hate my house, although, when I am contemplating a load of lumber, or a load of cement, I do think somewhat unfondly of it. But I do like our location, it is unique, quiet, and very pleasant. Brice, several years ago I was getting rid of one of those big, heavy as all hell, cast iron radiators. Instead of hauling it all the way down the courtyard and down the steps, then into a truck, I did the totally insane, and belayed the 450 plus pound beast down the basement stairs, where it still lurks in a corner. I had hoped that if I ever finished the basement I could just use it to heat the area. I may still do that, but I also may take a sawsall and sledge hammer to it and take it out in pieces. Sliding that puppy down the stairs was terrifying and exciting. It went absolutely perfectly. I don't write any of these things expecting people to think I am some kind of muscle bound hee man. I am average height and below average weight. I am just crazy as hell. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] Does iPod Nano Have Voice Over?
Bill, From what I remember, the Nano does not have VoiceOver, but ITunes places small mp3 files on the nano that allow it to announce the names of the files. So it is nnot a complete screen reader, just simulated. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
RE: [BlindHandyMan] More on studs.
On Wed, 31 Mar 2010, Tom Hodges wrote: If the purpose of the wall is to soundproof, I definitely would not place the two by fours flat, as the smaller space inside the wall will enhance the sound transmission. Tom, I am not planning on making a thinner wall, there will still be a 2X6 header and footer, thus a 5.5 inch air gap between the wall cladding. I was just deciding if it would be worth turning the studs 90 degrees. This would make it easier when hanging the cladding as far as having a larger target. It was just an idea. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] Sound proof wall.
I haven't bothered to mention it before, but apparently, according to the guy I know who built his studio, the foam or flexible padding between the wall cladding, and the studs, is not necessary. For the exact same reason that Dale mentioned about putting the studs flat. That allows for more flexibility of the cladding, thus making more vibration in the wall cavity. Most books on studio design say that you should rigidly attach the wall cladding to the studs. The inner and outer wall cladding should be decoupled. And the mass of the cladding should be as heavy as possible. Most studio designs call for two layers of 5/8 dry wall on each wall surface. The layers of dry wall should be hung at 90 degrees to each other. Adding fiberglass insulation in the wall cavity may help slightly, but it should be unfaced if possible. The header and footer should be decoupled, but I am not going to go that far. I also doubt I will go as far as an airlock style door system. It would just take up far too much room. I doubt this wall will be sound proof, I am just hoping it is sound reducing. The one issue my coworker mentioned is that after you get through making sure that sound doesn't leak out of the room, you have the issue that a lot of that sound energy stays in the room. If you don't do anything to absorb the sound inside the room, it will be loud as hell in there. I doubt I will do much to avoid that, but I'll see what it is like once I get the shop up and running. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] orientification
I got tung and groove OSB. I ordered quote 3/4 tung and groove plywood quote but they delivered OSB. I had been talking to the guy I was ordering from, and told him it was for a sub floor. I also mentioned that I was not an experienced carpenter, and he may have made some assumptions. I think I would have preferred plywood. I went with 3/4 just because I am being paranoid about the rigidity of the floor because these are 2X4 joists on the flat with a bunch of blocking. The joists feel very solid while I am walking around on them, but I did not glue the blocking to the cement floor, so I am hoping the decking will help keep the joists rigidly in position. What kind of screw or nail spacing should I use along the joists? -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] More on studs.
That is more-space-on, not moron, studs. When I build the wall between the finished room and the shop area, if you remember, I am off-setting the studs so that the two wall surfaces are not tied together except at the header and footer. I was just wondering if there is any reason why I shouldn't turn the studs 90 degrees. That would give a wider surface to mount the wall cladding to, and I would think that the structural rigidity will mainly come from the footer and header connection, not so much from the studs. This would also make it easier to install insulation because the interlaced studs wouldn't overlap as much. Just checking sanity here. Thanks. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
[BlindHandyMan] panel carrier.
I finally found a sheet good carrier, or panel carrier, at Harbor Freight. It was 5 bucks, made of metal, and put together backwards. The handle bends over the channel at the bottom rather than away from it. Luckily, it was just held together with a couple of screws, so I was able to turn the handle around. I will probably use a piece of one inch tubular webbing looped over my shoulder and hanging down my side so that I can hook the handle of the carrier through it, and thus carry the weight on my shoulder. Tomorrow morning, 12 sheets of 3/4 inch OSB, 42 studs, a few 2X6s and three 4X4s will be arriving at the bottom of my stairs. Should be a busy morning of hauling. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
Re: [BlindHandyMan] More on studs.
Good points all. It was a thought but that is why I asked here. Looks like it is probably a better idea to not turn the studs 90 degrees. Much appreciated. -- Blue skies. Dan Rossi Carnegie Mellon University. E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu Tel:(412) 268-9081
