Re: Brew Boiler

[MDR]

The one I just installed is similar but not quite the same, with different 
cutouts machined into the side.  I don't think it matters.  The critical 
issues are the thread size at the base and the safety release pressure. 
Yours is marked 3/8, which should be the correct size.  I can't see from 
the markings what the pressure rating is, but I understand it to be 1.6bar. 
Should be marked.

I believe that the threads are a straight, not tapered fit, where sealing 
relies on the a gasket at the bottom of the receiving female thread. I did 
use an NSF thread sealant on it just in case.  You could use teflon tape if 
you wished.

Murray

On Sunday, April 4, 2021 at 1:43:11 PM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:

> So I received my "tall safety valve" from WLL and looks nothing like my 
> current nor does it look like what I ordered from their website. Im 
> wondering if this is the wrong valve or if it is just an updated version, 
> or if it even matters, but I am not sure. 
>
> [image: IMG_1780.jpg][image: IMG_1779.jpg]
> On Wednesday, March 31, 2021 at 1:58:52 PM UTC-5 MDR wrote:
>
>> I recently replaced my steam safety valve. It released steam 
>> intermittently, at a pretty low rate. I had occasional success reseating 
>> the original valve by forcing a larger steam release, but I decided to 
>> replace the part.  I took apart the original, but couldn't see any damage 
>> on the seat. I guess I could have used a valve compound on it to regrind, 
>> but.
>>
>> I purchased a 1.6 bar 3/8? safety valve from espresso parts/Jura. I 
>> usually use WLL, but they were showing out of stock. (Jura showed in stock, 
>> but that was inaccurate as I had to wait 2 weeks for the order to ship.)
>>
>> It seems that the thread size is pretty standard. However, not many 
>> places carry the 1.6 bar version, most are 1.8 or 2.0 bar. I doubt it 
>> matters much given that so much of the boiler design/mfg is standard but I 
>> went with the stock pressure.
>>
>> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 6:50:13 PM UTC-7 Brian wrote:
>>
>>> Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a 
>>> slow consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When 
>>> the safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle. 
>>>
>>> I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the 
>>> same issue, I’m the third owner of this 10 year old machine, no surprise 
>>> that rubber parts would be starting to fail. There was a slow leak from the 
>>> safety valve, barely audible, but it would make cups on the warming tray 
>>> wet, and would cause the fill valve and the pump to kick On to refill the 
>>> boiler ever 10 minutes or so.
>>>
>>> Generally speaking I don’t recommend messing with safety valves on steam 
>>> boilers. For the price it’s better to just replace it and know that 
>>> everything is working as intended. Additionally manufacturers tend to make 
>>> them hard to service, they are often somehow sealed with a river or safety 
>>> wire once calibrated.  I will say the one thing maybe worth trying is to 
>>> intentionally open the safety valve. If you feel comfortable with it, you 
>>> could try burping it a few times to see if it doesn’t reseat. You’ll need 
>>> to pull up on the little shaft sticking out of the top of the valve while 
>>> the boiler has a little pressure on it. Make sure the machine is unplugged, 
>>> and Don’t do it while the machine is at operating pressure. I’d recommend 
>>> like .2-.4 bar. Use long pliers/channel locks to pull the release, and 
>>> shield your hands with a dry towel or high temp gloves If that fixes it, 
>>> great! If not just replace it with a new one. 
>>>
>>> Best of luck!.
>>> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:25:26 PM UTC-4 lovel...@mac.com wrote:
>>>
 Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be 
 adjusted, have you tried that yet?  The safety valve fires when it gets 
 above ~1.7 or 1.8 bar IIRC.  Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going 
 higher 
 than that.  Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might 
 need 
 to be replaced, they can eventually fail since they are plastic and 
 degrade 
 over time.

 On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:41:23 AM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:

> Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
> seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" ( 
> https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
>  
> ) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very 
> often 
> but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
> this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
> should I try to troubleshoot more?
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>
>> Great, thanks!
>>
>> On Tuesday, 

Re: Brew Boiler

[MDR]

I recently replaced my steam safety valve. It released steam 
intermittently, at a pretty low rate. I had occasional success reseating 
the original valve by forcing a larger steam release, but I decided to 
replace the part.  I took apart the original, but couldn't see any damage 
on the seat. I guess I could have used a valve compound on it to regrind, 
but.

I purchased a 1.6 bar 3/8? safety valve from espresso parts/Jura. I usually 
use WLL, but they were showing out of stock. (Jura showed in stock, but 
that was inaccurate as I had to wait 2 weeks for the order to ship.)

It seems that the thread size is pretty standard. However, not many places 
carry the 1.6 bar version, most are 1.8 or 2.0 bar. I doubt it matters much 
given that so much of the boiler design/mfg is standard but I went with the 
stock pressure.

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 6:50:13 PM UTC-7 Brian wrote:

> Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a slow 
> consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When the 
> safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle. 
>
> I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the 
> same issue, I’m the third owner of this 10 year old machine, no surprise 
> that rubber parts would be starting to fail. There was a slow leak from the 
> safety valve, barely audible, but it would make cups on the warming tray 
> wet, and would cause the fill valve and the pump to kick On to refill the 
> boiler ever 10 minutes or so.
>
> Generally speaking I don’t recommend messing with safety valves on steam 
> boilers. For the price it’s better to just replace it and know that 
> everything is working as intended. Additionally manufacturers tend to make 
> them hard to service, they are often somehow sealed with a river or safety 
> wire once calibrated.  I will say the one thing maybe worth trying is to 
> intentionally open the safety valve. If you feel comfortable with it, you 
> could try burping it a few times to see if it doesn’t reseat. You’ll need 
> to pull up on the little shaft sticking out of the top of the valve while 
> the boiler has a little pressure on it. Make sure the machine is unplugged, 
> and Don’t do it while the machine is at operating pressure. I’d recommend 
> like .2-.4 bar. Use long pliers/channel locks to pull the release, and 
> shield your hands with a dry towel or high temp gloves If that fixes it, 
> great! If not just replace it with a new one. 
>
> Best of luck!.
> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:25:26 PM UTC-4 lovel...@mac.com wrote:
>
>> Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be adjusted, 
>> have you tried that yet?  The safety valve fires when it gets above ~1.7 or 
>> 1.8 bar IIRC.  Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going higher than that. 
>>  Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might need to be 
>> replaced, they can eventually fail since they are plastic and degrade over 
>> time.
>>
>> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:41:23 AM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
>>> seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" ( 
>>> https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
>>>  
>>> ) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very often 
>>> but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
>>> this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
>>> should I try to troubleshoot more?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>>>
 Great, thanks!

 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:

> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
> espresso gear, etc.
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
>
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
> 1st, etc? Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>
>> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try 
>> that next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the 
>> previous 
>> owner had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all 
>> exterior 
>> parts to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming 
>> from a Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but 
>> wasn't 
>> sure if I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 
>> 4k 
>> for decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and 
>> looking forward to this community for sure!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when 
>>> my Brewt gave trouble! This is a 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

Brian, same with my machine, as I am the third owner as well.  The slight 
audible hiss is exactly whats happening, as well as the pump kicks on about 
every 10-15 mins. I ended up just purchasing a new valve from WLL and 
should be here on Friday so **fingers crossed** this will solve the issue. 

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:50:13 PM UTC-5 Brian wrote:

> Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a slow 
> consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When the 
> safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle. 
>
> I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the 
> same issue, I’m the third owner of this 10 year old machine, no surprise 
> that rubber parts would be starting to fail. There was a slow leak from the 
> safety valve, barely audible, but it would make cups on the warming tray 
> wet, and would cause the fill valve and the pump to kick On to refill the 
> boiler ever 10 minutes or so.
>
> Generally speaking I don’t recommend messing with safety valves on steam 
> boilers. For the price it’s better to just replace it and know that 
> everything is working as intended. Additionally manufacturers tend to make 
> them hard to service, they are often somehow sealed with a river or safety 
> wire once calibrated.  I will say the one thing maybe worth trying is to 
> intentionally open the safety valve. If you feel comfortable with it, you 
> could try burping it a few times to see if it doesn’t reseat. You’ll need 
> to pull up on the little shaft sticking out of the top of the valve while 
> the boiler has a little pressure on it. Make sure the machine is unplugged, 
> and Don’t do it while the machine is at operating pressure. I’d recommend 
> like .2-.4 bar. Use long pliers/channel locks to pull the release, and 
> shield your hands with a dry towel or high temp gloves If that fixes it, 
> great! If not just replace it with a new one. 
>
> Best of luck!.
> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:25:26 PM UTC-4 lovel...@mac.com wrote:
>
>> Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be adjusted, 
>> have you tried that yet?  The safety valve fires when it gets above ~1.7 or 
>> 1.8 bar IIRC.  Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going higher than that. 
>>  Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might need to be 
>> replaced, they can eventually fail since they are plastic and degrade over 
>> time.
>>
>> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:41:23 AM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
>>> seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" ( 
>>> https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
>>>  
>>> ) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very often 
>>> but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
>>> this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
>>> should I try to troubleshoot more?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>>>
 Great, thanks!

 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:

> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
> espresso gear, etc.
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
>
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
> 1st, etc? Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>
>> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try 
>> that next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the 
>> previous 
>> owner had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all 
>> exterior 
>> parts to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming 
>> from a Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but 
>> wasn't 
>> sure if I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 
>> 4k 
>> for decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and 
>> looking forward to this community for sure!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when 
>>> my Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us 
>>> have 
>>> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>>>
>>> Herman
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
 Good point Herman (and hello!).
 If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
 steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I 
 mistyped 
 earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Brian]

Definitely worth checking that the boiler isn’t over pressure. But a slow 
consistent leak is certainly likely to be a failed safety valve. When the 
safety valve goes off it tends not to be subtle. 

I purchased my brewtus IV a little over a year ago, and experienced the 
same issue, I’m the third owner of this 10 year old machine, no surprise 
that rubber parts would be starting to fail. There was a slow leak from the 
safety valve, barely audible, but it would make cups on the warming tray 
wet, and would cause the fill valve and the pump to kick On to refill the 
boiler ever 10 minutes or so.

Generally speaking I don’t recommend messing with safety valves on steam 
boilers. For the price it’s better to just replace it and know that 
everything is working as intended. Additionally manufacturers tend to make 
them hard to service, they are often somehow sealed with a river or safety 
wire once calibrated.  I will say the one thing maybe worth trying is to 
intentionally open the safety valve. If you feel comfortable with it, you 
could try burping it a few times to see if it doesn’t reseat. You’ll need 
to pull up on the little shaft sticking out of the top of the valve while 
the boiler has a little pressure on it. Make sure the machine is unplugged, 
and Don’t do it while the machine is at operating pressure. I’d recommend 
like .2-.4 bar. Use long pliers/channel locks to pull the release, and 
shield your hands with a dry towel or high temp gloves If that fixes it, 
great! If not just replace it with a new one. 

Best of luck!.
On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:25:26 PM UTC-4 lovel...@mac.com wrote:

> Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be adjusted, 
> have you tried that yet?  The safety valve fires when it gets above ~1.7 or 
> 1.8 bar IIRC.  Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going higher than that. 
>  Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might need to be 
> replaced, they can eventually fail since they are plastic and degrade over 
> time.
>
> On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:41:23 AM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
>> seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" ( 
>> https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
>>  
>> ) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very often 
>> but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
>> this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
>> should I try to troubleshoot more?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>>
>>> Great, thanks!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:
>>>
 Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
 espresso gear, etc.
 b

 On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:

 oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
 1st, etc? Thanks!

 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:

> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try 
> that next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the 
> previous 
> owner had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all 
> exterior 
> parts to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming 
> from a Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but 
> wasn't 
> sure if I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k 
> for decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and 
> looking forward to this community for sure!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when 
>> my Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us 
>> have 
>> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
>>> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped 
>>> earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. 
>>> Listen to 
>>> Herman, he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> b
>>>
>>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear 
>>> the hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump 
>>> still 
>>> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause 
>>> my 
>>> pump to come on like yours is 

Re: Brew Boiler

['R Michael Lovelady' via Brewtus]

Your description sounds like the pressure stat might need to be adjusted, 
have you tried that yet?  The safety valve fires when it gets above ~1.7 or 
1.8 bar IIRC.  Try adjusting down to 1.5 if it's going higher than that. 
 Also, if the adjustment won't hold the pressure stat might need to be 
replaced, they can eventually fail since they are plastic and degrade over 
time.

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:41:23 AM UTC-7 rragu...@gmail.com wrote:

> Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
> seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" ( 
> https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
>  
> ) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very often 
> but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
> this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
> should I try to troubleshoot more?
>
> Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>
>> Great, thanks!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:
>>
>>> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
>>> espresso gear, etc.
>>> b
>>>
>>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
>>>
>>> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
>>> 1st, etc? Thanks!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>>>
 Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try 
 that next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous 
 owner had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all 
 exterior 
 parts to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming 
 from a Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't 
 sure if I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k 
 for decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and 
 looking forward to this community for sure!

 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when 
> my Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us 
> have 
> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
>> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped 
>> earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen 
>> to 
>> Herman, he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>>
>> Best,
>> b
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  
>> wrote:
>>
>> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear 
>> the hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump 
>> still 
>> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause 
>> my 
>> pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:
>>
>>> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its 
>>> coming from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is 
>>> leaking 
>>> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact 
>>> of it 
>>> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
>>> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you 
 should be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.

 Herman


 On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  
 wrote:

> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus 
> iv non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much 
> of a 
> milk drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife 
> wanted a 
> capp so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and 
> was 
> wondering if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes 
> for a 
> couple of seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to 
> repair in the near future?  Thanks in advance!
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "Brewtus" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

Update* So I ended up swapping out the o-rings on the vacuum valve and 
seems the small leak/hiss sound is coming from the "tall safety valve" 
( 
https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/expobar-tall-safety-valve-65000110?variant=14409383084091
 
) its light and not leaking any water. I don't drink milk drink very often 
but may have one here or there so I usually have this boiler off ( I love 
this feature on the brewtus :)) Best bet would be to replace this part or 
should I try to troubleshoot more?

Thanks!

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:39:32 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:

> Great, thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:
>
>> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
>> espresso gear, etc.
>> b
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
>>
>> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
>> 1st, etc? Thanks!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>>
>>> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that 
>>> next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner 
>>> had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts 
>>> to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming from a 
>>> Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't sure if 
>>> I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k for 
>>> decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and looking 
>>> forward to this community for sure!
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my 
 Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have 
 moved on to different machines over the years. 

 Herman


 On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
 bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Good point Herman (and hello!).
> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped 
> earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen 
> to 
> Herman, he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>
> Best,
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  wrote:
>
> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear 
> the hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump 
> still 
> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my 
> pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:
>
>> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its 
>> coming from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is 
>> leaking 
>> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of 
>> it 
>> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
>> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you 
>>> should be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>>>
>>> Herman
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus 
 iv non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much 
 of a 
 milk drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife 
 wanted a 
 capp so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was 
 wondering if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes 
 for a 
 couple of seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to 
 repair in the near future?  Thanks in advance!

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups "Brewtus" group.
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 send an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
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 .

>>>
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>> send an email to 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

Great, thanks!

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:38:52 PM UTC-5 bmacpiper wrote:

> Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle 
> espresso gear, etc.
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
>
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 
> 1st, etc? Thanks!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
>
>> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that 
>> next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner 
>> had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts 
>> to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming from a 
>> Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't sure if 
>> I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k for 
>> decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and looking 
>> forward to this community for sure!
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my 
>>> Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have 
>>> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>>>
>>> Herman
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>>
 Good point Herman (and hello!).
 If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
 steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped 
 earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen 
 to 
 Herman, he’s smarter than me.  ;)

 Best,
 b

 On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  wrote:

 As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear 
 the hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still 
 keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my 
 pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.

 Herman


 On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:

> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its 
> coming from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking 
> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of 
> it 
> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you 
>> should be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv 
>>> non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a 
>>> milk 
>>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a 
>>> capp 
>>> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was 
>>> wondering 
>>> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a 
>>> couple of 
>>> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in 
>>> the 
>>> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>> send an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/81f50764-19c0-4d3b-afa8-449f196ebe43n%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>

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Re: Brew Boiler

['Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus]

Those are both good, plus Chris Coffee, espressoparts.com, seattle espresso 
gear, etc.
b
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:35, Roy  wrote:
> 
> oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 1st, 
> etc? Thanks!
> 
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:
> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that 
> next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner 
> had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts 
> to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming from a 
> Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't sure if I 
> wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k for decent 
> lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and looking forward 
> to this community for sure!
> 
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>  wrote:
> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my Brewt 
> gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have moved on to 
> different machines over the years. 
> 
> Herman
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus 
> > wrote:
> Good point Herman (and hello!).
> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam 
> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped earlier I 
> think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen to Herman, 
> he’s smarter than me.  ;)
> 
> Best,
> b
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens > wrote:
>> 
>> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the 
>> hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still keeps 
>> coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my pump to 
>> come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>> 
>> Herman
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy > wrote:
>> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming from 
>> that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking (lightly) as 
>> well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it doing its job 
>> inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring replacements or just 
>> switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com <> wrote:
>> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be 
>> able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>> 
>> Herman
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar > wrote:
>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non 
>> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk 
>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp 
>> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering 
>> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of 
>> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the 
>> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Brewtus" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com <>.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/81f50764-19c0-4d3b-afa8-449f196ebe43n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> .
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Brewtus" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com <>.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/1e5d81c8-4c9f-4adf-9ecc-2808ea8460bbn%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> .
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Brewtus" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com <>.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/CAM9mha217k5sg1HJaExpHZa5PGw9DSRGSPqcRqZoP4gTA3yM%2Bw%40mail.gmail.com
>>  
>> .
> 
> 
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> email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com <>.
> To view this 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

oh forgot to ask, but where do you all suggest to get parts from? WLL, 1st, 
etc? Thanks!

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:33:42 PM UTC-5 Roy wrote:

> Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that 
> next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner 
> had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts 
> to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming from a 
> Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't sure if 
> I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k for 
> decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and looking 
> forward to this community for sure!
>
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my 
>> Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have 
>> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
>> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the 
>>> steam boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped 
>>> earlier I think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen to 
>>> Herman, he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> b
>>>
>>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  wrote:
>>>
>>> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the 
>>> hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still 
>>> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my 
>>> pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>>>
>>> Herman
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:
>>>
 I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming 
 from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking 
 (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of 
 it 
 doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
 replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
 On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should 
> be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  
> wrote:
>
>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv 
>> non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a 
>> milk 
>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a 
>> capp 
>> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was 
>> wondering 
>> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple 
>> of 
>> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in 
>> the 
>> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>> send an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/81f50764-19c0-4d3b-afa8-449f196ebe43n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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 .

>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
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>>> an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/CAM9mha217k5sg1HJaExpHZa5PGw9DSRGSPqcRqZoP4gTA3yM%2Bw%40mail.gmail.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
>>> 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

Oh yes, I totally hear you! And thanks for all the info, I will try that 
next. great thing about the brewtus I purchased was that the previous owner 
had added quite a few upgrades like the flow control and all exterior parts 
to walnut wood as well as some others which is nice and I'm coming from a 
Breville Barista Express. I was hoping to get into e61's but wasn't sure if 
I wanted to go all the way and spend almost 3k for a Bianca or 4k for 
decent lol But all in all im loving this brewtus. Thanks again and looking 
forward to this community for sure!

On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 6:20:33 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:

> Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my 
> Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have 
> moved on to different machines over the years. 
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
> bre...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>
>> Good point Herman (and hello!).
>> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam 
>> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped earlier I 
>> think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen to Herman, 
>> he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>>
>> Best,
>> b
>>
>> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  wrote:
>>
>> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the 
>> hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still 
>> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my 
>> pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:
>>
>>> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming 
>>> from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking 
>>> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it 
>>> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
>>> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
>>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should 
 be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.

 Herman


 On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  wrote:

> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv 
> non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a 
> milk 
> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a 
> capp 
> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was 
> wondering 
> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple 
> of 
> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the 
> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
> Groups "Brewtus" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
> an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/81f50764-19c0-4d3b-afa8-449f196ebe43n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>

>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/1e5d81c8-4c9f-4adf-9ecc-2808ea8460bbn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "Brewtus" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/CAM9mha217k5sg1HJaExpHZa5PGw9DSRGSPqcRqZoP4gTA3yM%2Bw%40mail.gmail.com
>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "Brewtus" group.
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> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/890AE940-693F-43FB-AD8D-13F6FE6597AC%40me.com
>>  
>> 

Re: Brew Boiler

[Herman Dickens]

Lol. Hey Ben. I can't tell you how many times Ben has helped me when my
Brewt gave trouble! This is a great group even  though a lot of us have
moved on to different machines over the years.

Herman


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 7:17 PM 'Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus <
brewtus@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Good point Herman (and hello!).
> If enough steam is escaping, that could drop the water level in the steam
> boiler and cause the pump to cycle to fill it back up. I mistyped earlier I
> think when I said “brew boiler” for what gets refilled. Listen to Herman,
> he’s smarter than me.  ;)
>
> Best,
> b
>
> On Mar 23, 2021, at 16:14, Herman Dickens  wrote:
>
> As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the
> hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still
> keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my
> pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:
>
>> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming
>> from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking
>> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it
>> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring
>> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
>> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should
>>> be able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>>>
>>> Herman
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  wrote:
>>>
 Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv
 non rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
 drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp
 so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering
 if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of
 seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the
 near future?  Thanks in advance!

 --
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
 Groups "Brewtus" group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
 an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
 To view this discussion on the web visit
 https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/81f50764-19c0-4d3b-afa8-449f196ebe43n%40googlegroups.com
 
 .

>>>
>> --
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/brewtus/1e5d81c8-4c9f-4adf-9ecc-2808ea8460bbn%40googlegroups.com
>> 
>> .
>>
>
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> 
> .
>
>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: Brew Boiler

[Herman Dickens]

As Ben said replace the o-ring. If the pump stops and you don't hear the
hiss that's all you need to do. If you fix the hiss and the pump still
keeps coming on you have another issue. I've had the o-ring leak cause my
pump to come on like yours is doing so hopefully that will fix it.

Herman


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:01 PM Roy  wrote:

> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming
> from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking
> (lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it
> doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring
> replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be
>> able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>>
>> Herman
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
>>> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
>>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp
>>> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering
>>> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of
>>> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the
>>> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to brewtus+u...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
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Re: Brew Boiler

['Ben McCafferty' via Brewtus]

Hey Roy,
I’m joining late so forgive me if I missed something that was already said.

I think you have two issues. 

The hiss is pretty clear and easy—especially since you only have it with the 
steam boiler. That boiler has a vacuum relief valve, and it’s an easy fix. 
There’s an o-ring, size 007 if memory serves. Take off the top part (that the 
needle protrudes through) and clean it all up and replace the o-ring with a new 
one of high-temp silicone. Buy extras, this is a relatively frequent repair 
(couple times a year running my machine 12 hours a day).

The pump thing seems unrelated to me, and seems like probably a leak in the 
pump itself. The water level in the brew boiler is falling, and when the sensor 
detects that, it has the pump cycle on to refill. The vibe pumps do wear, and 
so that’s my guess. Also not uncommon to have those wear out as they are a 
simple metal piston.

Other than that I’d look for leaks that allow water level to fall.

Oh, and as to the other safety valve (on top of the steam boiler), it’s an 
over-pressure valve also and if it goes, you’ll know it—sounds like a freight 
train coming through for a few seconds, then it reseats and gets ready to scare 
the hell out of you again. In my experience, it’s not a gentle hiss.  ;)

Hope some of that helps, and forgive me if anything is misstated as I’m working 
from memory at the moment.

b

> On Mar 23, 2021, at 15:00, Roy  wrote:
> 
> I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming from 
> that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking (lightly) as 
> well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it doing its job 
> inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring replacements or just switch 
> out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
> On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:
> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be 
> able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
> 
> Herman
> 
> 
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  > wrote:
> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non 
> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk 
> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp so 
> I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering if 
> vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of 
> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the 
> near future?  Thanks in advance!
> 
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Re: Brew Boiler

[Roy]

I think it may be this.. I hear a light hiss and im thinking its coming 
from that area but it also looks as if the safety valve is leaking 
(lightly) as well. But I am wondering if that is just due to the fact of it 
doing its job inadvertently because of the vacuum valve. O-ring 
replacements or just switch out both valves with new ones? Any recs?
On Tuesday, March 23, 2021 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-5 herman...@gmail.com wrote:

> May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be 
> able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.
>
> Herman
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  wrote:
>
>> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non 
>> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk 
>> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp 
>> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering 
>> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of 
>> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the 
>> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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Re: Brew Boiler

[Herman Dickens]

May be that the check valve for the steam is leaking. If so you should be
able to hear it. I think it's called a vacuum relief valve.

Herman


On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:02 PM Roy Aguilar  wrote:

> Hello all, so I recently upgraded from a bbe to a expobar brewtus iv non
> rotary, I’ve had this thing for about a week and I’m not much of a milk
> drinker so I usually only have brew boiler on but today wife wanted a capp
> so I turned on both boilers. This is my first e61 machine and was wondering
> if vibration pump comes on intermittently every few minutes for a couple of
> seconds is normal. Or am I possibly looking at something to repair in the
> near future?  Thanks in advance!
>
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RE: Brew Boiler Pressure Meter

[Jonathan Stroum]

Bill,  I’d bet on the gauge itself being the culprit. There shouldn’t be any 
pressure showing when cold and, since it does move when the portafilter is 
pressurized, it doesn’t seem to be a problem with the connections. If so, no 
need to do anything unless it bothers you. Have you tried tapping it to see 
what it does when cold?

 

Jonathan

 

From: brewtus@googlegroups.com  On Behalf Of wsmckenz
Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 11:33 AM
To: Brewtus 
Subject: Brew Boiler Pressure Meter

 

Meter sits at 6 or 7 bar all the time, even unplugged and stone cold. Still 
goes to 9 or 10 while pulling a shot, and I can dial that value up and down 
with the pressure setting off the pump. But what is wrong? Is the zero setting 
just bad? I see a couple of brass triangle shaped adjustment screws on the dial 
itself, but it doesnt look very easy to get at them. When I open to the 
pre-infusion level, it drops a bit, but then pulls back up. Is this worth 
worrying about?

 

~Bill

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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[John Brinkman]

I had the same issue with the same result.

JohnB

On Thu, Jan 10, 2019 at 5:30 AM David Maltais 
wrote:

> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Moral of the story, need to be sure it's tight and there is no leak...
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[Eric Christoffersen]

Cool! Congrats on finding a root cause.

On Wednesday, January 9, 2019 at 7:30:14 PM UTC-8, David Maltais wrote:
>
> So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was 
> thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk
>
> Moral of the story, need to be sure it's tight and there is no leak... 
>
>

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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[David Maltais]

So, new PID came from WLL. Removed the faulty one to confirm what I was 
thinking. Steam wand leak created a short on the board.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xL80Yt5T-socqQXwWvsYWHc6VBPd4vgf/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O5WrrY1vi0jc6CRJvhrxD-dQKl8Jt4Z8/view?usp=drivesdk

Moral of the story, need to be sure it's tight and there is no leak... 

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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[David Maltais]

I will try for.sure!

Thx

Le lun. 31 déc. 2018 20 h 17, Eric Christoffersen  a
écrit :

> I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when
> I got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened
> but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I
> got a higher quality timer switch.
>
> So... try a different house circuit?
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[Eric Christoffersen]

I had a problem with pid not heating brew element, problem went away when I 
got rid of my cheap old wall timer switch. I can't say why this happened 
but my machine's pid has now been working great for more than a year once I 
got a higher quality timer switch.

So... try a different house circuit?

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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[David Maltais]

I did the "jump" test and it started to heat. So faulty PID it is !

I looked at WLL wesbsite and shipping to Canada is ridiculous (155$ US)... 
Can they ship with USPS ?

Is there a way to repair it (soldering iron and electronic component) or 
it's a in the garbage item ?

Thanks a lot for your help !

DM

Le dimanche 30 décembre 2018 12:42:41 UTC-5, todds a écrit :
>
> Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you 
> have circled.
>
> You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated.  So if thiss 
> causes the green light on the SSR to go on and the brew boiler starts to 
> heat then the PID has gone bad.
>
> On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07 PM David Maltais  > wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I read a lot of these problem on the group and tried a lot of things to 
>> find my problem without posting another one. Where I am at rigth now, I 
>> need to confirm my assumption with more knowledgeable guys here.
>>
>>
>>1. Steam boiler works
>>1. Red ligth cycle normaly.
>>2. Brew boiler heating element is ok
>>   1. It heats if I "cheat" using steam boiler connectors or 
>>   bypassing PID.
>>3. No high limit problem, 
>>   1. I tried bypassing them with no results
>>   2. I tested them too
>>
>>
>> The problem seems to be the PID/SSR.
>>
>>
>>1. I have *no green ligth on the SSR* and there should be a solid 
>>green ligth during brew boiler heating.
>>2. So current is not getting there or the SSR is not working?
>>   1. I tried to bypass the PID to test the SSR.
>>  1. result = green ligth and brew boiler is heating. So I think 
>>  I have quite isolated the problem.
>>   3. PID seems to be the problem
>>   1. I did a reset, not result.
>>   2. It shows the room temperature
>>   3. It gives the right temp too since it will rise and lower.
>>   4. I have a solid blue dot on display
>>
>> I presume the PID is not sending current to the SSR
>>
>> I attached pictures.
>>
>> So, am I doing this right ? Is there a way to repair the PID ? With this 
>> test, can I be 100 % sure the problem is the PID ?
>>
>> Thanks a lot !
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating (yes another one)

[Todd Salzman]

Try holding a jumper wire between the two black wires on the PID that you
have circled.

You did say that the blue light on the PID is illuminated.  So if thiss
causes the green light on the PID to go on and the brew boiler starts to
heat then the PID has gone bad.

On Sun, Dec 30, 2018 at 12:07 PM David Maltais 
wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I read a lot of these problem on the group and tried a lot of things to
> find my problem without posting another one. Where I am at rigth now, I
> need to confirm my assumption with more knowledgeable guys here.
>
>
>1. Steam boiler works
>1. Red ligth cycle normaly.
>2. Brew boiler heating element is ok
>   1. It heats if I "cheat" using steam boiler connectors or bypassing
>   PID.
>3. No high limit problem,
>   1. I tried bypassing them with no results
>   2. I tested them too
>
>
> The problem seems to be the PID/SSR.
>
>
>1. I have *no green ligth on the SSR* and there should be a solid
>green ligth during brew boiler heating.
>2. So current is not getting there or the SSR is not working?
>   1. I tried to bypass the PID to test the SSR.
>  1. result = green ligth and brew boiler is heating. So I think I
>  have quite isolated the problem.
>   3. PID seems to be the problem
>   1. I did a reset, not result.
>   2. It shows the room temperature
>   3. It gives the right temp too since it will rise and lower.
>   4. I have a solid blue dot on display
>
> I presume the PID is not sending current to the SSR
>
> I attached pictures.
>
> So, am I doing this right ? Is there a way to repair the PID ? With this
> test, can I be 100 % sure the problem is the PID ?
>
> Thanks a lot !
>
> David
>
>
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?

[BklynJim]

Found a loose wire coming off PID and now it's working again. Still have a 
problem with the steam boiler not refilling once the machine is warmed up. I'll 
start a new thread for that. Thanks again for the help
Jim

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Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?

[James Lodge]

Nicolas,
Yes I am in Brooklyn - Carroll Gardens. I really appreciate the offer. I
actually ordered one from eBay this morning. It was only $17 so I figured
it was worth having a spare if it turns out the SSR wasn't the problem.
Love this group. Thanks all!


On Oct 27, 2017 4:28 PM, "Nicholas Majka"  wrote:

> Hey Jim not sure from your name but do you live in Brooklyn?  I'm in Long
> Island city and happen to have a spare SSD but planning on sending it back
> as it wasn't required for the pid installation looked WLL said it was.  If
> you figure out from the boards it's ssd maybe you can borrow it for testing
> but I'll need it back for refund from WLL.
>
> On Oct 27, 2017, at 9:27 AM, BklynJim  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
> So I have a  problem with my Brewtus II with a retrofitted PID (did that
> last year with help from this group).  Yesterday morning the machine heated
> up fine and was functioning normally, and then there was a loud popping
> noise from the machine and the brew boiler temp starting falling.  Brew
> boiler is now not heating.  Did some exploring last night following the WLL
> video:
>
> · PID has power, shows room temperature and a solid blue dot –
> calling for heat.
>
> · SSR has 115V but no green light.
>
> · Resistance across each boiler is ~13 ohms.
>
> · Pressurestat tests normally
>
>
> Does this sound like a shot SSR?  Anything else I should check? Thanks
> guys!
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?

[Nicholas Majka]

Hey Jim not sure from your name but do you live in Brooklyn?  I'm in Long 
Island city and happen to have a spare SSD but planning on sending it back as 
it wasn't required for the pid installation looked WLL said it was.  If you 
figure out from the boards it's ssd maybe you can borrow it for testing but 
I'll need it back for refund from WLL.

> On Oct 27, 2017, at 9:27 AM, BklynJim  wrote:
> 
>   
> 
>  
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I have a  problem with my Brewtus II with a retrofitted PID (did that last 
> year with help from this group).  Yesterday morning the machine heated up 
> fine and was functioning normally, and then there was a loud popping noise 
> from the machine and the brew boiler temp starting falling.  Brew boiler is 
> now not heating.  Did some exploring last night following the WLL video:
> 
> · PID has power, shows room temperature and a solid blue dot – 
> calling for heat. 
> 
> · SSR has 115V but no green light. 
> 
> · Resistance across each boiler is ~13 ohms.
> 
> · Pressurestat tests normally
> 
>  
> 
> Does this sound like a shot SSR?  Anything else I should check? Thanks guys!
> 
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Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?

[BklynJim]

Thanks Ira.  The SSR take AC load on both sides and I believe I saw 110V on 
both sides(  L1 and A2? )  when I measured.  I'll confirm tonight.  Seem 
like the other possibility is a bad PID but not sure how to check it. I did 
check the power to the PID and it is showing 110V and displaying the 
correct temp.  

On Friday, October 27, 2017 at 12:39:03 PM UTC-4, Ira wrote:
>
> Hello BklynJim,
>
> Friday, October 27, 2017, 6:27:57 AM, you wrote:
>
>
> ● SSR has 115V but no green light.   
> What does the other side of the SSR show? Read the label to see if it 
> takes low voltage DC or 117AC. If the SSR is getting the on signal and is 
> not conducting it would sure seem to be a likely suspect.
>
> -- Ira
>

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Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?

[Ira]

Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating. SSR problem?


Hello BklynJim,

Friday, October 27, 2017, 6:27:57 AM, you wrote:





●         SSR has 115V but no green light.  



What does the other side of the SSR show? Read the label to see if it takes low voltage DC or 117AC. If the SSR is getting the on signal and is not conducting it would sure seem to be a likely suspect.

-- Ira



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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[Eric Christoffersen]

Thank you! I didn't know that - always played it by feel. I know if too 
thick the tape gets shredded.


On Thursday, September 15, 2016 at 9:40:00 AM UTC-7, bmacpiper wrote:

> Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe 
> yellow calls for three to get the published test results. 
> bmc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 15, 2016, at 09:38, Eric Christoffersen  > wrote:
>
> +1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now 
> able to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more 
> isn't better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well 
> before reinstalling.
>
> On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7, brian wrote:
>>
>> I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well. 
>>
>> This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it 
>> dry for 48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the 
>> homemade washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. 
>> If it leaks again I'll use only the goop and let it dry 48 hours again. I 
>> think my washer is more likely to leak than just letting it fully cure. 
>>
>> The impact wrench will take that element immediately. Much easier than a 
>> strap wrench. You only need to remove the plastic hole cover in the bottom 
>> to use the impact wrench. 
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> On Sep 13, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Ben McCafferty  wrote:
>>
>> +1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression 
>> fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly. 
>> Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the 
>> original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get 
>> all bits of dope out of the boiler to avoid sending them into the plumbing 
>> of the machine--don't ask how I know this), then reseal and install. I've 
>> used yellow Teflon tape and the factory liquid, both do great. The liquid 
>> dries FAST so be ready to go if you use it. 
>> Best,
>> bmc
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 12, 2016, at 14:10, herman dickens  wrote:
>>
>> You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with 
>> that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some 
>> pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe 
>> pipe dope.
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
>>>
>>> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
>>> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
>>>
>>> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element 
>>> first before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give 
>>> it a further tightening. 
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "Brewtus" group.
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>>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/brewtus.
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>>>
>>
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[Eric Christoffersen]

+1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now 
able to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more 
isn't better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well 
before reinstalling.

On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7, brian wrote:
>
> I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well. 
>
> This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it 
> dry for 48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the 
> homemade washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. 
> If it leaks again I'll use only the goop and let it dry 48 hours again. I 
> think my washer is more likely to leak than just letting it fully cure. 
>
> The impact wrench will take that element immediately. Much easier than a 
> strap wrench. You only need to remove the plastic hole cover in the bottom 
> to use the impact wrench. 
>
> Brian
>
> On Sep 13, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Ben McCafferty  
> wrote:
>
> +1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression 
> fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly. 
> Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the 
> original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get 
> all bits of dope out of the boiler to avoid sending them into the plumbing 
> of the machine--don't ask how I know this), then reseal and install. I've 
> used yellow Teflon tape and the factory liquid, both do great. The liquid 
> dries FAST so be ready to go if you use it. 
> Best,
> bmc
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 12, 2016, at 14:10, herman dickens  > wrote:
>
> You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with 
> that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some 
> pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe 
> pipe dope.
>
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  > wrote:
>
>> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
>>
>> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
>> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
>>
>> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first 
>> before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a 
>> further tightening. 
>>
>> -- 
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[Ben McCafferty]

Usually it will say on the label how many wraps are required. I believe yellow 
calls for three to get the published test results. 
bmc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 15, 2016, at 09:38, Eric Christoffersen  wrote:
> 
> +1 on the thicker (yellow or pink) Teflon tape. Seals well yet I am now able 
> to remove the element using hand tools. Remember with teflon tape more isn't 
> better, just a single wrap was all I needed. Clean the threads well before 
> reinstalling.
> 
>> On Tuesday, September 13, 2016 at 9:42:46 AM UTC-7, brian wrote:
>> I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well. 
>> 
>> This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it dry 
>> for 48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the 
>> homemade washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. 
>> If it leaks again I'll use only the goop and let it dry 48 hours again. I 
>> think my washer is more likely to leak than just letting it fully cure. 
>> 
>> The impact wrench will take that element immediately. Much easier than a 
>> strap wrench. You only need to remove the plastic hole cover in the bottom 
>> to use the impact wrench. 
>> 
>> Brian
>> 
>>> On Sep 13, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Ben McCafferty  wrote:
>>> 
>>> +1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression 
>>> fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly. 
>>> Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the 
>>> original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get 
>>> all bits of dope out of the boiler to avoid sending them into the plumbing 
>>> of the machine--don't ask how I know this), then reseal and install. I've 
>>> used yellow Teflon tape and the factory liquid, both do great. The liquid 
>>> dries FAST so be ready to go if you use it. 
>>> Best,
>>> bmc
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Sep 12, 2016, at 14:10, herman dickens  wrote:
 
 You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with 
 that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some 
 pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe 
 pipe dope.
 
> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:
> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
> 
> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
> 
> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first 
> before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a 
> further tightening. 
> 
> -- 
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[Brian Thoman]

I just went through this. I agree with Herman as well. 

This time I made an aluminum washer and used the Loctite goop. I let it dry for 
48 before putting it under pressure. The last time I didn't use the homemade 
washer and only let it dry 24 hours. It leaked a few months later. If it leaks 
again I'll use only the goop and let it dry 48 hours again. I think my washer 
is more likely to leak than just letting it fully cure. 

The impact wrench will take that element immediately. Much easier than a strap 
wrench. You only need to remove the plastic hole cover in the bottom to use the 
impact wrench. 

Brian

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 9:54 AM, Ben McCafferty  wrote:
> 
> +1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression 
> fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly. 
> Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the 
> original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get 
> all bits of dope out of the boiler to avoid sending them into the plumbing of 
> the machine--don't ask how I know this), then reseal and install. I've used 
> yellow Teflon tape and the factory liquid, both do great. The liquid dries 
> FAST so be ready to go if you use it. 
> Best,
> bmc
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 12, 2016, at 14:10, herman dickens  wrote:
>> 
>> You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with 
>> that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some 
>> pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe pipe 
>> dope.
>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:
>>> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
>>> 
>>> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
>>> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
>>> 
>>> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first 
>>> before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a 
>>> further tightening. 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>>> "Brewtus" group.
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>> 
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[Ben McCafferty]

+1 on Herman's comment. The element does not use a flare or compression 
fitting, and the factory sealed with a liquid dope that sets up quickly. 
Tightening is going to make it Leak worse because you'll break loose the 
original dope. Remove it, clean the threads as best you can (and try to get all 
bits of dope out of the boiler to avoid sending them into the plumbing of the 
machine--don't ask how I know this), then reseal and install. I've used yellow 
Teflon tape and the factory liquid, both do great. The liquid dries FAST so be 
ready to go if you use it. 
Best,
bmc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 12, 2016, at 14:10, herman dickens  wrote:
> 
> You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with 
> that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some 
> pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe pipe 
> dope.
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:
>> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
>> 
>> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
>> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
>> 
>> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first 
>> before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a 
>> further tightening. 
>> 
>> -- 
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> 
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[herman dickens]

You could always try to tighten it but I've never had a lot of luck with
that. it is worth a try though. If that doesn't work take it out, put some
pipe dope on it, and screw it back in. Make sure that you use food safe
pipe dope.

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 5:07 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:

> Thanks Herman, quick reply!
>
> My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll
> check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.
>
> Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first
> before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a
> further tightening.
>
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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[winnipegger65]

Thanks Herman, quick reply!

My brother has an impact wrench so I can borrow that easily enough. I'll 
check out Home Depot for a strap wrench.

Are you suggesting Herman that I need to remove the heating element first 
before tightening it? I was thinking all I needed to do was to give it a 
further tightening. 

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Re: Brew Boiler Leak

[herman dickens]

Home Depot or Lowe's will have a strap wrench. If you can find an impact
wrench that fits your socket it will be much easier to remove. The
aforementioned stores also, usually, have those in stock.
Herman

On Mon, Sep 12, 2016 at 3:56 PM, winnipegger65  wrote:

> My Brewtus is leaking, just a bit, from the heating element in the brew
> boiler. Once it gets warmed up, I guess some expansion happens and no more
> water leaks out. Total leakage is maybe a teaspoon or less. The heating
> element is (I think) a 38 mm socket and I have one that fits. What I'm
> struggling with is how to apply the necessary torque to tighten it without
> wrenching the brew boiler itself. I was told to use a belt (like on your
> pants) to try and hold the boiler while tightening the heating element.
> However, that's easier said than done.
>
> Do any of you fine people out there have any advice?
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[William Boshuck]

Thank you.

I put some high quality silver paste
under the SSR.  The issue seems to
be resolved, and the machine is
functioning very well.

cheers,
-wb

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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Ben McCafferty]

It's been a while, but if memory serves: PID, wiring, relay, paste, thermoprobe 
and new metal tube for it, and detailed directions for converting the wiring. 
best,
bmc
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2016, at 12:06, William Boshuck  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks very much.  I will apply the paste
> before powering up again.
> 
> My vendor (zcafe - I am in Canada) sent
> only the relay and the PID, and replacing
> the PID turned out to be unnecessary
> (I guess I am now prepared should that
> to pass).  Do you mind if I ask what else
> came in the kit from WholeLatteLove?
> 
> cheers,
> -wb
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[herman dickens]

cheers

On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 3:06 PM, William Boshuck 
wrote:

>
> Thanks very much.  I will apply the paste
> before powering up again.
>
> My vendor (zcafe - I am in Canada) sent
> only the relay and the PID, and replacing
> the PID turned out to be unnecessary
> (I guess I am now prepared should that
> to pass).  Do you mind if I ask what else
> came in the kit from WholeLatteLove?
>
> cheers,
> -wb
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[William Boshuck]

Thanks very much.  I will apply the paste
before powering up again.

My vendor (zcafe - I am in Canada) sent
only the relay and the PID, and replacing
the PID turned out to be unnecessary
(I guess I am now prepared should that
to pass).  Do you mind if I ask what else
came in the kit from WholeLatteLove?

cheers,
-wb

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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[herman dickens]

You need to put heat transfer paste. You can use the same stuff that is
used for processors in computers. Thermal paste is available online. If you
don't use it you will probably have another failure. Good luck.

On Sat, Jul 30, 2016 at 1:55 PM, William Boshuck 
wrote:

> Hi,
>   I ordered and replaced the SSR and the
> situation seems to be resolved.  Around
> the base of the original SSR was some
> grease - dielectric grease I would guess.
> Is there anything special I should replace
> it with, or will generic dielectric grease do?
>
> Thanks for the info, Dave.  I had supposed
> the SSR functions as a switch. As expected,
> the brew boiler heats if T1/L1 is shorted.
>
> Instead, I was wondering about the mode of
> failure of the SSR. I don't know the internal
> composition of the device. For a while, the
> heating/not heating of the brew boiler was
> sporadic.  When the machine sat for a long
> time, on power up the brew boiler received
> voltage for a while, now and then long enough
> to reach brew temperature. Once the voltage
> stopped going to the brew boiler it would not
> come back until the machine had sat for a
> long while. If I had to guess, I would guess that
> the relay would function until it had warmed up
> a certain amount, or had been so warm for a
> bit. But this is a very blind guess.  Does this
> sound reasonable to someone who is familiar
> with the device?
>
> Also, out of curiosity, any thoughts about what
> might bring about the failure of the relay?
>
> Thanks very much to everyone for the helpful
> input.
>
> cheers,
> -wb
>
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Ben McCafferty]

Can't help with most of this, but the paste is a heat transfer paste that came 
with the relay and PID kit. I don't think dilectric would necessarily be a good 
substitute. 

Todd may chime in on a good replacement that could come from the hardware 
store. 

best,
bmc

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 30, 2016, at 10:55, William Boshuck  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
>   I ordered and replaced the SSR and the
> situation seems to be resolved.  Around
> the base of the original SSR was some
> grease - dielectric grease I would guess.
> Is there anything special I should replace
> it with, or will generic dielectric grease do?
> 
> Thanks for the info, Dave.  I had supposed
> the SSR functions as a switch. As expected,
> the brew boiler heats if T1/L1 is shorted.
> 
> Instead, I was wondering about the mode of
> failure of the SSR. I don't know the internal
> composition of the device. For a while, the
> heating/not heating of the brew boiler was
> sporadic.  When the machine sat for a long
> time, on power up the brew boiler received
> voltage for a while, now and then long enough
> to reach brew temperature. Once the voltage
> stopped going to the brew boiler it would not
> come back until the machine had sat for a
> long while. If I had to guess, I would guess that
> the relay would function until it had warmed up
> a certain amount, or had been so warm for a
> bit. But this is a very blind guess.  Does this
> sound reasonable to someone who is familiar
> with the device?
> 
> Also, out of curiosity, any thoughts about what
> might bring about the failure of the relay?
> 
> Thanks very much to everyone for the helpful
> input.
> 
> cheers,
> -wb
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Dave B]

solid state relays (of this type) never fail partially on or off.

they are binary.

try shorting out the load side of the SSR.  Does it heat properly then?

D

On Friday, July 22, 2016 at 12:41:15 AM UTC-7, William Boshuck wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 12:48:30 PM UTC-4, Bruce Keeler wrote:
>>
>>
>> I would do a bit more poking around with your voltmeter. Keep one probe 
>> on the neutral terminal and test the voltage from that to various points 
>> around the machine. You might find the missing voltage, or find that one of 
>> the three conditions is not, in fact, true.
>>
>
> and thanks.
>
> I started again from scratch, and couldn't reproduce the 60 - 65 volts
> going to the brew boiler, until I remembered how I found it in the first
> place.  On the WholeLatteLove video for testing electronic components
> the voltage to the steam boiler is tested by powering down, removing
> the leads and connecting them to a voltmeter and then powering up.
> For the steam boiler this gave the expected ~120 V but for the brew
> boiler it gave ~65 V.  Even on power up this later this evening.
>
> I re-checked the resistance across the steam and brew boilers, and
> each was 13 - 14 ohms.  The voltage from neutral to the pressurestat,
> steam boiler, PID and solid state relay (A1) were each ~120 V.
> The voltage from neutral to T1 on the relay was about 120 V, but it
> dropped to about 25 V when the steam boiler element was heating.
> The voltage from neutral to L1 on the relay was negligible, as was
> voltage from neutral to the high limit switch on the brew boiler (and
> at the element).
>
> Before doing any of this checking I reset the PID (hold "^", power
> on, wait for PrS, release "^", power off).
>
> Another point of information.  For a while his evening the brew
> boiler heated up fully, and it stayed that way long enough that
> I was able to run out for beans, find a good grind and pull a few
> shots.
>
> Does this look anything like a relay failing?
>
> Thanks again.
>
> cheers,
> -wb
>

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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[William Boshuck]

Hi,

On Wednesday, July 20, 2016 at 12:48:30 PM UTC-4, Bruce Keeler wrote:
>
>
> I would do a bit more poking around with your voltmeter. Keep one probe on 
> the neutral terminal and test the voltage from that to various points 
> around the machine. You might find the missing voltage, or find that one of 
> the three conditions is not, in fact, true.
>

and thanks.

I started again from scratch, and couldn't reproduce the 60 - 65 volts
going to the brew boiler, until I remembered how I found it in the first
place.  On the WholeLatteLove video for testing electronic components
the voltage to the steam boiler is tested by powering down, removing
the leads and connecting them to a voltmeter and then powering up.
For the steam boiler this gave the expected ~120 V but for the brew
boiler it gave ~65 V.  Even on power up this later this evening.

I re-checked the resistance across the steam and brew boilers, and
each was 13 - 14 ohms.  The voltage from neutral to the pressurestat,
steam boiler, PID and solid state relay (A1) were each ~120 V.
The voltage from neutral to T1 on the relay was about 120 V, but it
dropped to about 25 V when the steam boiler element was heating.
The voltage from neutral to L1 on the relay was negligible, as was
voltage from neutral to the high limit switch on the brew boiler (and
at the element).

Before doing any of this checking I reset the PID (hold "^", power
on, wait for PrS, release "^", power off).

Another point of information.  For a while his evening the brew
boiler heated up fully, and it stayed that way long enough that
I was able to run out for beans, find a good grind and pull a few
shots.

Does this look anything like a relay failing?

Thanks again.

cheers,
-wb

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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Ira]

Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV


Hello Bruce,

Wednesday, July 20, 2016, 10:40:51 AM, you wrote:





That doesn't help explain why his boiler isn't heating of course so it's still a weird problem.




Well, actually it might. If the voltage changes to 65 at or near the temperature it stops at, possibly the PID is messed up and needs a factory reset or replacement.

-- Ira



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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Bruce J keeler]

Ooh, true! I got so wrapped up in pondering Kirchoff's laws that I 
totally forgot to blame the meter.


That doesn't help explain why his boiler isn't heating of course so it's 
still a weird problem.


On 7/20/2016 9:52 AM, Ira wrote:

Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV Hello Bruce,

Wednesday, July 20, 2016, 9:48:26 AM, you wrote:


	If all three of those are true simultaneously, then something else in 
the machine has to be sinking the other 55V at ~4Amps. The only thing 
in the machine capable of sinking that much power without instantly 
bursting into flames is the other boiler. Which implies that they've 
somehow arranged themselves in series? Hmmm.




If it's controlled by a PID and the PID has started controlling the 
output, many meters will have a hard time telling you what the output 
actually is and so a reading of 65V might be perfectly reasonable.


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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Bruce J keeler]

Well that's a doozy! To sum up:

1. Voltage in is 115-120V
2. Resistance of brew boiler = 14 ohms
3. Voltage drop across brew boiler = 60-65V

If all three of those are true simultaneously, then something else in 
the machine has to be sinking the other 55V at ~4Amps. The only thing in 
the machine capable of sinking that much power without instantly 
bursting into flames is the other boiler. Which implies that they've 
somehow arranged themselves in series? Hmmm.


I would do a bit more poking around with your voltmeter. Keep one probe 
on the neutral terminal and test the voltage from that to various points 
around the machine. You might find the missing voltage, or find that one 
of the three conditions is not, in fact, true.


On 7/18/2016 1:15 PM, William Boshuck wrote:

Hi,
  a short while ago the brew boiler on my Brewtus IV
would not heat up much above 30 or 40 degrees C.

When I got to look into the problem it went away
for about a week.  Now it is back.  Below is some
more information.

The steam boiler heats up just fine. The pressure is
1.25 bar, which is what it has been since I bought
the machine about three years ago.

The voltage to the control board, PID, static relay
and steam boiler are all 115 -- 120 volts.  The
resistance across each boiler is just under 14 ohms.
The high limit switches are not tripped (there is no
resistance across the contacts on either side of
them).  From what I gather all of this is as it should be.

The voltage to the brew boiler is only 60 -- 65 volts.
I noticed once or twice, just after the machine is
powered up, that the voltage to the brew boiler is
115 -- 120 volts, and while this is so, the brew
boiler heats up, but it never makes it much past
50 or 60 degrees C before cooling back down, at
which point the voltage to the brew boiler drops
back down (to about 60 - 65 volts).

Any thoughts about this would be much appreciated.

cheers,
-wb
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Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV

[Ira]

Title: Re: Brew boiler not heating on Brewtus IV


Hello Bruce,

Wednesday, July 20, 2016, 9:48:26 AM, you wrote:





If all three of those are true simultaneously, then something else in the machine has to be sinking the other 55V at ~4Amps. The only thing in the machine capable of sinking that much power without instantly bursting into flames is the other boiler. Which implies that they've somehow arranged themselves in series? Hmmm.



If it's controlled by a PID and the PID has started controlling the output, many meters will have a hard time telling you what the output actually is and so a reading of 65V might be perfectly reasonable. 

-- Ira



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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[Todd Salzman]

We just put together a video on how to test the electrical components on a
Brewtus. I was not able to cover everything but if you go through it you
may find that see what you need.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIiLeRdVWAU

Hope this helps.

Todd Salzman
Whole Latte Love


On Thu, Apr 9, 2015 at 9:45 AM, Mark Fletcher fletcho...@comcast.net
wrote:

 You might try reading...I had the same problem with my Brewtus. Todd
 replied on 3/31...




 Thanks Todd,

 I was able to recover the system by resetting the high limit thermostat.

 From: brewtus@googlegroups.com [mailto:brewtus@googlegroups.com] On
 Behalf Of Todd Salzman
 Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 10:35 AM
 To: brewtus@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: Brewtus-2 doesn't heat either boiler

 Good info.  The next step is to answer the questions in blue.

 Does the steam boiler heat up?

 No

 Does the big red light on the right side of the machine go on?

 No

 Do you have 110 volts between the top terminal on the pressure stat and
 any copper pipe?

 Do you have 110 volts between the bottom wire on the pressure stat and any
 copper pipe?

 What do the display on the PID say?

 PID display shows 18 (room temp)

 Is the small light on the PID flashing?

 No

 Is the small light on the PID on non stop?



 Does the pump run when you raise the brew lever?

 Yes





 On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 10:15 AM, Mark Fletcher fletcho...@comcast.net
 wrote:
 Does the steam boiler heat up?

 No

 Does the big red light on the right side of the machine go on?

 No

 What do the display on the PID say?

 PID display shows 18 (room temp)

 Is the small light on the PID flashing?

 No

 Does the pump run when you raise the brew lever?

 Yes


 Can y’all give guidance on what I need to check?


 Thanks


 -Original Message-
 From: brewtus@googlegroups.com [mailto:brewtus@googlegroups.com] On
 Behalf Of brewcru
 Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2015 11:43 PM
 To: brewtus@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: Brew boiler won't heat

 I am dying here!

 New temp sensor, PID, and replay and same symptoms. $230 in parts.

 Only other thing I can think to try, replace pressurestat (don't think
 that's the problem), and the two pin package at the top of the boiler
 that's inline with the heater (what is that?).

 Will try wholelattelove again tomorrow. Would like some love from them.
 Only thing I am getting is being sold expensive replacement parts I don't
 need! Help would be nice.

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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[brewcru]

It was the two pin package on the top of the brew boiler. I discovered it is a 
high limit tempstat, a protection circuit. I bypassed it first, and bingo brew 
boiler heats. It also has a little red button which when pressed apparently 
resets (closes) the circuit. That worked and unit works normal now.

Would have been nice if someone on here could have mentioned this! I've made 9 
posts in total on here over a month and all but two are mine! Where is the 
help!?!? Meanwhile I purchase $230 in replacement parts. Thanks...

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Re: Brew boiler not heating - I'm stumped

[Bruce Keeler]

[ Adding brewtus group back so others can benefit ]

Well, I found the problem as well as another one. It looks like when I 
replaced the main power switch I managed to wire it backwards. Whoops! 
That would explain a lot of what was confusing me earlier.


Having fixed that issue, I proceeded with the diagnosis and noticed that 
I wasn't getting voltage out of the pressurestat when the steam light 
was off, so obviously not seeing it at the SSR either. Looks like I need 
a new pressurestat.


Thanks for the help Todd!

On 3/25/15 3:09 PM, Todd Salzman wrote:

HI Bruce,

Yup, sorry but the Video is not done.  It is on the schedule again for 
tomorrow.


But in the mean time.

To check the pressure stat so that we know it is sending power towards 
the brew boiler see if you have 110 volts between the The middle wire 
on the pressure stat and ground. You should have 110 volts when the 
steam boiler light on the front of the machine is off.


The middle wire on the pressure stat runs down to the ssr so you 
should also have 110 volts from T1 on the ssr to ground



Now turn the steam boiler switch off:
Then check from L1 to ground and you should have voltage jumping up 
when the light on the SSR blinks on.


You can then to the the same test on the high limit. Do both sides to 
ground.


Then pull the wires off the heating element and stick your leads in 
both and check there.


let me know how you make out.

Thanks

Todd




Set your meter to AC volts, check it in a known power source such as 
an outlet to make sure it is reading correctly.   Then put it across 
the A1 and A2 terminals on the SSR.  YOu should see the voltage jump 
everytime the light goes on


On Tue, Mar 24, 2015 at 5:57 PM, Todd Salzman 
to...@wholelattelove.com mailto:to...@wholelattelove.com wrote:


Hello Bruce,

I am very sorry but I was not able to get the information to you
today.
I will have it done tomorrow

Regards,

Todd

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 4:11 PM, Todd Salzman
to...@wholelattelove.com mailto:to...@wholelattelove.com wrote:

To early to go with a new SSR.

But at least now we are getting good info.

I am trying to get a chance to put together a testing
procedure but may not be able to do it until tomorrow.

I'll do  my best.

Todd

On Mon, Mar 23, 2015 at 4:04 PM, Bruce Keeler
br...@drangle.com mailto:br...@drangle.com wrote:

The voltage between the brew boiler wires was 42V
throughout the test, both before and after the steam light
went out. I also measured the voltage to ground of the two
wires: 118V (blue) and 8V (red).

Sounds like maybe I need a new SSR?

Thanks,
Bruce


On 3/23/15 5:53 AM, Todd Salzman wrote:

Hi Bruce,

The next step is to:

Unplug the machine and pull the two wires off the brew
boiler and stick the leads from your volt meter into them
and turn on the machine.

After the steam boiler heats up and the red light goes
off do you have any voltage? (First test your meter by
checking the voltage at the outlet so that you know you
are on the proper scale/settings)


As a side test:

With the machine un pluged pull the wires off the steam
boiler and check the Ohms across the terminals on the
heating element. It should read about 14.   Then after
you know you have the proper meter setting check the brew
boiler.




On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 10:02 PM, Bruce Keeler
br...@drangle.com mailto:br...@drangle.com wrote:

I haven't moved any wires, so we can rule that out.

When turned on, the steam boiler heats up as normal
with the big red light on. Steam pressure comes up,
big red goes off.

The PID display says 15ºC and stays there give or
take. The small red light on the PID is on steady, as
is the LED on the SSR.

The pump does come on when the lever is raised.

Thanks,
Bruce


On 3/22/15 4:20 PM, Todd Salzman wrote:

If we can we start from scratch I might be able to
help after a couple of e mails.

Put all the wires back to their original position.


What happens when you turn it on?(describe symptoms)


The information I will need is:
Does the steam boiler heat up?
Does the big red light on the right side of the
machine go on?
What do the display on the PID say?
Is the small light on the PID flashing?
Does the pump run when you raise the brew lever?


Todd 

Re: Brew boiler not heating - I'm stumped

[Todd Salzman]

Hi Bruce,

The next step is to:

Unplug the machine and pull the two wires off the brew boiler and stick the
leads from your volt meter into them and turn on the machine.

After the steam boiler heats up and the red light goes off do you have any
voltage? (First test your meter by checking the voltage at the outlet so
that you know you are on the proper scale/settings)


As a side test:

With the machine un pluged pull the wires off the steam boiler and check
the Ohms across the terminals on the heating element. It should read about
14.   Then after you know you have the proper meter setting check the brew
boiler.




On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 10:02 PM, Bruce Keeler br...@drangle.com wrote:

  I haven't moved any wires, so we can rule that out.

 When turned on, the steam boiler heats up as normal with the big red light
 on. Steam pressure comes up, big red goes off.

 The PID display says 15ºC and stays there give or take. The small red
 light on the PID is on steady, as is the LED on the SSR.

 The pump does come on when the lever is raised.

 Thanks,
 Bruce


 On 3/22/15 4:20 PM, Todd Salzman wrote:

 If we can we start from scratch I might be able to help after a couple of
 e mails.

  Put all the wires back to their original position.


  What happens when you turn it on?(describe symptoms)


  The information I will need is:
 Does the steam boiler heat up?
 Does the big red light on the right side of the machine go on?
 What do the display on the PID say?
 Is the small light on the PID flashing?
 Does the pump run when you raise the brew lever?


  Todd Salzman
 Whole Latte Love



 On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 6:40 PM, Bruce Keeler br...@drangle.com wrote:

 BII with rotary and PID conversions installed.

 When the machine is warmed up and steam light is off, I see 110V at BOTH
 terminals of the brew boiler element. This tells me that the neutral
 connection to the element is bad, right? When the steam boiler is getting
 power I see 110V and 0V at its terminals as expected.

 But the thing is, with the machine powered down I stripped a tiny piece
 of insulation off the neutral wire of the incoming power cord and measured
 the resistance from there to each of the two element terminals. I got 0Ω
 and 14Ω as expected. This tells me that the neutral connection to the
 element is fine.

 I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. Any ideas?

 Thanks,
 Bruce

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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[brewcru]

Update:

I moved the steam boiler leads to the brew boiler and the brew heater works 
fine.

I'd like to leave it there, but I don't think I can because the brew boiler 
pressure just climbs and climbs. I turned it off at 12bar. I think the 
steam boiler needs to be in the loop.

So what's broken? The pressure stat?

-Frank

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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[brewcru]

Found direct replacement for the relay:
Crouzet 84134011 *$52*
Packaging is a little different.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/84134011/646-1002-ND/1279976

PID controller a bit more pricey
http://www.bellabarista.co.uk/expobar-gicar-pid-10200125.html

-Frank


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Re: Brew boiler not heating - I'm stumped

[Bruce Keeler]

I haven't moved any wires, so we can rule that out.

When turned on, the steam boiler heats up as normal with the big red 
light on. Steam pressure comes up, big red goes off.


The PID display says 15ºC and stays there give or take. The small red 
light on the PID is on steady, as is the LED on the SSR.


The pump does come on when the lever is raised.

Thanks,
Bruce

On 3/22/15 4:20 PM, Todd Salzman wrote:
If we can we start from scratch I might be able to help after a couple 
of e mails.


Put all the wires back to their original position.


What happens when you turn it on?(describe symptoms)


The information I will need is:
Does the steam boiler heat up?
Does the big red light on the right side of the machine go on?
What do the display on the PID say?
Is the small light on the PID flashing?
Does the pump run when you raise the brew lever?


Todd Salzman
Whole Latte Love



On Sun, Mar 22, 2015 at 6:40 PM, Bruce Keeler br...@drangle.com 
mailto:br...@drangle.com wrote:


BII with rotary and PID conversions installed.

When the machine is warmed up and steam light is off, I see 110V
at BOTH terminals of the brew boiler element. This tells me that
the neutral connection to the element is bad, right? When the
steam boiler is getting power I see 110V and 0V at its terminals
as expected.

But the thing is, with the machine powered down I stripped a tiny
piece of insulation off the neutral wire of the incoming power
cord and measured the resistance from there to each of the two
element terminals. I got 0Ω and 14Ω as expected. This tells me
that the neutral connection to the element is fine.

I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Bruce

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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[Bruce Keeler]

The resistance across the boiler elements should read about 14Ω, not 
zero. Make sure your multimeter is set for the appropriate range, and 
measure with the power off.


Next steps would be to test voltages at various points. First, let the 
machine warm the steam boiler up and wait until the steam light goes 
off. Then measure the voltage at the brew element. On a working machine, 
one side should read 0V and one side 110V. If you get no voltage there 
check the output terminals of the solid-state relay. There's an LED 
built in to the SSR which should be on too. If the LED is on, both sides 
of the SSR should read 110V. If not, then the PID controller is not 
signalling for power, which could be due to a bad sensor or bad PID.


Hope that helps,
Bruce

On 3/21/15 11:41 AM, brewcru wrote:
Yesterday the stream boiler pressure relief valve blew and released a 
large volume of steam into the machine. The PID controller display had 
visible moisture in it. The machine power-off due to GFCI tripping.


BTW, my machine is a Brewtus III Rotary with blue PID display.

I think the steam boiler pressure stat got stuck and that caused the 
blow out. I replaced the pressure stat ~18months ago. During my 
trouble shooting this morning, the pressure stat and steam boiler seem 
to be functioning correctly. I turned the pressure stat down slightly, 
that may have unstuck it.


I have traced the issue to the brew boiler. The controller and 
pressure stat are both indicating that current should be applied to 
the brew boiler but I am not registering any voltage on the brew 
boiler (and it's obviously not heating). I am getting 110VAC on the 
steam boiler when the pressurestat opens.


Some additional info... When I fired the machine back on after the 
blowout the PID controller read A1, which apparently is a general 
error state. I thought it might be the temp sensor, so I open the 
machine and wiggled the thermocouple leads on the brew boiler and it 
started reading again, or it just dried out and started reading again.


I have not looked at the schematic yet, but it looks like the PID 
controller opens a relay just below it that should put 110VAC on the 
brew boiler, but it's not applying any current. What could be the 
problem here?


The brew boiler and steam boiler leads are both reading zero ohms.

Thanks for any help!

-Frank

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Re: Brew boiler won't heat

[brewcru]

Forgot to mention the relay LED is always on.

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Re: Brew Boiler down

[Karl]

Just pushed it and the display is up to 50 already!

I feel kind of stupid, since my Silvia has a similar reset which I've
used. Didn't know Brewtus thermostats had them. Looks like I've been
reduced to using the press pot for a month, for no reason, while I
pondered all this!

Thanks so much,
Karl

On Feb 13, 12:51 pm, Dennis Keating dennis.keat...@comcast.net
wrote:
 karl,  look at your brew boiler limit thermostat on top of the boiler.
 theres two wires going to it.  it has a tiny button on it that is a
 resettable breaker. push that button and check brewtus again. - Dennis

 -Original Message-
 From: brewtus@googlegroups.com [mailto:brewtus@googlegroups.com] On Behalf

 Of Karl
 Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2011 10:27 AM
 To: Brewtus
 Subject: Brew Boiler down

 Brewtus II has failed.

 Pump works, water coming out of grouphead is tepid.

 Steam boiler heats up, I think to full temperature since it makes steam
 normally. Brew boiler does not heat up. Display goes up to about 31, with
 some fluctuation. I assume this is caused by the heat of the hot steam
 boiler warming up the brew boiler.

 I seem to have connectivity between both wires on the two heating elements.
 I seem to have connectivity across the steam boiler thermostat but not
 across the brew boiler thermostat.

 Can anyone confirm that I should have connectivity across the brew boiler
 thermostat? I'm not too sharp with this sort of thing, but from the diagrams
 it looks to me that if you don't have connectivity across the brew boiler
 thermostat you don't get juice to the brew boiler heating element.

 Can anyone tell me if it looks like all I need to do is replace the brew
 boiler thermostat, and, if so, how difficult that is?

 Karl

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