Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Rayban Carbon Frame Aviators.  Why pay extra for Carbon?  They are light /
very stiff / don't lose their adjustment and stay on your face.

First pair of sunglasses I've ever owned that doesn't try to slide off my
face constantly after a year or 2 of use.

Given the fact that they are entrusted to keep $800.00 progressive
prescription lenses from hitting the pavement or contributing to Davy
Jones' locker they're well worth the money.  I've had them for almost 5
years and plan on keeping them when I refresh the lens prescription which
is a first for me on any prescription glasses.

PS: Yes, I wear them with floating croakies just in case when I'm sailing
but so far, they would not have fallen off regardless.

https://www.sunglasshut.com/us/ray-ban/rb8313-8053672006650?cid=PM-FGS_200709-PLA-SmartShopping-RayBan-%7bproduct_gtin%7d=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwALwoZ1lRvOAiQSm4HNr-OYArExbBhEyi48Kt2F2Fozo__jl9KypBPbxoCqpIQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Yamaha 4hp 2 cycle

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David,

It does sound like it's running lean on the high end.  The solution is
likely to be related to a fuel flow problem like a clogged carburetor jet
or obstruction / air leak  / weak point in the fuel delivery system such as
a clogged filter / fuel pickup / regulator / missing gasket / dried-up
diaphragm, etc.

A constructed flow problem won't manifest itself on the low end as the
engine only needs a trickle of fuel to idle correctly, however when you
open the throttle the trickle has to turn into a stream...

Filters and hoses are easy and cheap / carburetor rebuild kits with
diaphragms and gaskets cost about 15-20 bucks and take about 30 minutes to
install.

Good luck!

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"





Josh and Chuck,

Mixture is new with AV gas so no issues there.   Only one adjustment screw
on carb.  Seems to only affect low throttle.  As said all good in neutral
and good up until ? throttle in gear.  Chuck mentioned if spark plug grey
and chalky, which it is, it is running lean at top end.   How does one
adjust top end without adjustment screw.

Thanks in advance.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Favorite deck cleaner/recipe?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David,

How about your boat's deck self-bleaching / cleaning every time it rains?

That's pretty much where mine is these days.  I give it a bleach / Woody's
wax in the spring and another one in the fall.  Beyond that I rinse  the
deck once a month or two and clean the black streaks every month or two,
they are very light and that takes about 20 minutes all together using Star
Bright Streak remover.  That's it.

How's that possible?

I've been doing a pretty heavy handed application of Comet / Bartender's
friend powdered bleach scrubbed in with coarse scrub brushes 2 or 3 times a
year since I got the boat 8 years ago.

 This was not done on purpose but the bleach seems to have worked it's way
into the somewhat porous original gelcoat substrate of the deck, and now
every time it rains, some bleach oozes back out and the combination with
southern sunshine bleaches the works for me :-)

I also do a finish clean / wax using Woody's Wax products twice a year
right after I'm done bleaching.  Not sure if it's the combination or the
bleach itself but it works.

This year we had a pretty heavy deposit of yellow pollen and it got stuck
under my steering assembly / on the cockpit sub-floor and the drainage
created a noticeable yellow streak on my stern.  I worked on the boat last
weekend and serviced the steering system /  cleaned everything in the area
but didn't have enough time to address the yellow streaks. Similarly, I had
enough time to quickly rinse off the deck / remove tree crud and pollen but
not enough to bleach it.

I was planning on bleaching this weekend but when I went to practice my
racing crew on Tuesday night I found the that the yellow streak was gone
and most of the deck is Lilly white pristine!  Best I can surmise the heavy
rains from Sunday / Monday night and bright sunshine during the day
bleached it from me. Go figure.  All it needs now is a few touches of
bleach + The regular Woody's wax and we're good to go 'till October :-)

https://www.westmarine.com/search?Ntt=Woody%27s+wax+cleaner

Good luck with the project!

Best Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List LF38 Fuel Tank Replacement

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi,
 I hope you mopped the diesel up and cleaned with soap as much as you could
as quickly as possible.  I've read about horror stories of diesel eating
the gelcoat / getting into the substrate and causing much worse damage...

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Best Shower Boat

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Now that you mention it I remember the Mockey's 37+ with the Plexiglas
door.

The 34+ has a seat in the shower as well.  It makes a good shelf for stuff
if you use for storage :-)

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

On Fri, May 15, 2020 at 3:26 PM Ken Heaton  wrote:

> Actually, the 37+ (37/40) has a plexiglass shower door, not a curtain. The
> door can open into a shallow recess in the wall, hidden behind the wood
> door in the photo linked below, so it will be completely out of the way
> when you don't need it.
>
> It works very well actually.  And there is a seat in the shower stall too,
> as Edd pointed out.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%26C_37/40#/media/File:C_37-40_Heads_Interior.jpg
>
>
> On Fri, 15 May 2020 at 16:06, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Joe,
>>
>> Both the 34+ (34/36) and the 37+ (37/40) have separate shower stalls.
>> Both have curtain and all. Amazingly enough even the one in the 34+ is
>> normal human size / comfortable to take a decent shower  / store stuff /
>> house a free standing A/C unit.
>>
>> Also, they have a separate shower sump with pump for direct overboard
>> discharge so that the sudsy water doesn't end-up stinking-up your bilge.
>>
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Best Shower Boat

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

Both the 34+ (34/36) and the 37+ (37/40) have separate shower stalls.  Both
have curtain and all. Amazingly enough even the one in the 34+ is normal
human size / comfortable to take a decent shower  / store stuff / house a
free standing A/C unit.

Also, they have a separate shower sump with pump for direct overboard
discharge so that the sudsy water doesn't end-up stinking-up your bilge.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 34+ Idler Pulleys and Cabin Top Compression (Kevin Driscoll)

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin

I didn't see anything to worry about either. Ours is the wing keel version
and we love it.  To Steve's comment: It's fast as heck. On our lake,  (No
wave surfing) I've seen sustained 8+ knots many times with bouts in the low
9's.  I saw 9 momentarily in just 14 knots wind last fall with our slick
bottom (Pettit Black Widow PTFE paint) and new sails.

It's very competitive on the race course.  We win regularly and the PHRF
committee even felt it was "too fast" and came to my dock to measure
everything when we first started racing. Local PHRF is 108 adjusted for the
135 genoa.

Accommodations wise the cabin prett much as roomy and as comfy as my
friends' newer 38 ft Beneteau Special Edition (Beneteau copied the layout)
but much nicer with lots of beautiful teak wood everywhere instead of fake
stuff.  Compared to older boats it's roomier / more comfortable than many
40 footers...

About the "Tenderness".  It's a bit over-canvassed for speed and fun but
it's not tender. I don't reef anything until I get to 18-20 sustained and
then rolling 15-20% off the 135 genoa takes the edge off when close hauled
/ hard on the wind .  I have not reefed the main in a few years.  It takes
22-25 sustained to even start considering reefing the main and that would
be close hauled / hard on the wind only, all other points of sails it's all
out way past 25 knots. When the boat speed gets above 8 knots you do have
to keep a close eye on things and ease a little in the puffs to flatten the
boat and get the most speed boost.  The weather helm is very adjustable
simply by setting the rake.  I took a fair amount of rake off the setup
with my new sails, the new 135 genoa pulls like a freight train and I had
to loosen up the bow.

Some of the "Tenderness" might be attributed to older sails.  It was a
noticeably more tender with the old sails but with the new ones, It just
flat rocks!  Expect to spend $8,500 + on a decent set of custom made sails
and somewhere between $6,000 - 7,000 bucks for chinese off the rack stuff.

On the concerns:

1) The window thing is no big deal, mine has it too. I think it's related
to the windows "Pulling" on it in cold weather.  If you look in the crack,
the lining is made out of Styrofoam... I'm planning on capping it with a
nice teak strip as trim and to restore the shearing strength. You can also
just glue it back, 5 minutes epoxy will work fine there.  Most
cyanoacrylate glues (CA or 'Crazy Glue type) will dissolve the foam.

2) The steering bracket is "Regular thing" caused by Edson's terrible
material choice of mild steel. You can contact Chuck Scheafer about a
replacement.  He had a nice stainless one made by Garhauer a few years
back. Mine is still fine as the boat has been in fresh water most of its
life.

3) Most or all of the cabin top is not cored.  I have removed a couple
dodger fittings near the companion way / "business area" where the winches
and main traveler are located,  I checked the holes carefully, and was
happy to see that it's solid fiberglass.

4) The cooling system is no biggie. It's one of the few things that are
easy to reach and work on in the engine compartment.  I would just replace
the pump and all the hoses to be on the safe side.  The heat exchanger can
be easily cleaned with wood dowels, there are access caps on both ends.
The whole thing is a couple hours' work tops.

I hope that works, PM me for more details if you want.

Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,

You might want to move from the ball and socket design and go simple with a
loop on the car and regular trigger jaw setup.

The car was originally missing on our 34+ and my rigger told me about the
simpler (And very popular) setup. It's cheap, super rugged, and easy to
use.

Here are some examples..

https://www.atlanticriggingsupply.com/sc1sppocarwh.html

https://www.velasailingsupply.com/forespar-utr-200-ef-pole-end-fittings/?sku=FR304060=Cj0KCQiA7aPyBRChARIsAJfWCgLHu4RmiveRBeD8QBS74zQ5CufVmcmKgR2aNVn7cZxeFtL0jvAmAHgaAslgEALw_wcB

Best of luck on the project!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List SailTimer Experiences

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I meant to say Wind shifts / tide / currents should NOT be issues...

Merry Christmas!

-Francois
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List SailTimer Experiences

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I would definitely consider it / most likely get it.  I use a combination
of Sail Racer app on my phone and the layline function / Tack "A" vs tack
"B" on my (still killer) B Zeus2 Touch charplotter. Sail Racer is really
cool to have for starting line tactics and the B does give you nice
insights on one tack vs the other and how quick you're getting to the mark.

Like anything else in racing any vehicle, short of outright cheating there
are no silver bullets.  The VMG on mark and VMG on wind  / time to mark are
just more data points that you include in the (complex) overall picture /
pick your best course.  I'm a bit of a data nerd (I do the stuff for a
living) but to me, having the extra data - info is really cool and useful.

As David mentioned, there are limitations.  The wind shifts and current /
tide effect should be issues if the system is sophisticated enough to
understand drift which the B and most charplotters / racing computers
do.  It's also very sophisticated in optimizing the course as it precisely
knows your heading / your over the water  and SOG speed  / the true /
apparent wind speed and wind direction. All that is gathered via GPS, the
paddle wheel, and wind vane on the mast which are all networked together
and very precise.   On the other hand sometimes my recommended layline is
300 yards in the woods :-)  It knows where I am but the layline function
doesn't seem to know the terrain.  So you have to take it with a grain of
salt.

I'll never forget on one race I was about 10 boat lengths behind my group /
everybody was doing a long tack to get to the windward mark. I checked the
plotter and it recommended doing a couple short tacks.  I followed the
advice / ended-up 10 boat lengths ahead of everyone on the other side of
the marker / won the race by a good margin..

Your actual mileage may vary.   As for me, I'm getting a wifi bridge for my
NMEA 2000 network so I can get even more cool metrics via the phone /
tablet app networked to all of the above over the wifi :-)

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Stus list painting boot top

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

  Hi Rod,

I did mine using Petit Perfection (Now called Interlux Perfection) and
after 6 coats on one side and 5 on the other it came out: Perfect.  After 5
years, it's still perfect and the only maintenance it has received is the
occasional wipe down using lake water while we're swimming.

Picture:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M3bMlRChkvkRnGy7Qd4sIv1MYTHde0Rj/view?usp=sharing

The reason for the multiple coats was the learning curve / I wasn't willing
to settle for anything short of perfection.

A few pointers:


   - Doing it in the summer when the weather is warm and humid you have to
   get it done before 9:30 am or before the sun is high enough to make any
   difference on surface temperature
   - Experiment with the catalyst mix / test on a smooth test surface
   - My best painting technique was brushing it on with a super soft brush,
   start with horizontal stroke and "tip" downward to break-up the brush
   lines. All that done quickly to keep the wet edge and the tipping is one or
   2 touches ONLY per spot. Just keep going, let it lay down on its own. (I
   have also tried roll and tip with different rollers  / spraying is
   "Verboten" at my yard)
   - Make sure you sand to a very smooth finish as prep and between the
   coats


https://www.wholesalemarine.com/interlux-perfection-high-gloss-marine-paint/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAuefvBRDXARIsAFEOQ9FoTqo-FnsenizBeHtOU2VeEiJmLkzHU_QBKDP6T-cfwehXui1HM8AaAjEpEALw_wcB


Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Tips for finding and keeping racing crew

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I wish there was a secret formula on that beyond who you already know,
luck, time, and lots of patience..

This year I decided to up our game and go spinnaker class only to be
reminded (Too many times) why I didn't do it in the past.

Main reason for staying JAM before: crew.
Main challenges this year: crew.

Seems you have to kiss a lot of frogs before finding your charming
princes.

I'll give the only one factor that made a lot of difference: Try to find a
nice lady or two.
When she's on board 2 things happen:
1) The language gets cleaned-up
2) The guys that normally just sit around not doing much beyond pretending
they're running a talk show seem to magically become more enterprising and
useful. Apparently the macho thing is still alive and well

As for us, as much as I love the challenge and action when flying a
conventional spin, I'm seriously considering going back to JAM

Good luck !

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Marco Pumps UP3E

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I'm familiar with gear pumps and I saw what I was fearing might be an
issue: Grease / gear material shavings.

The "Don't use the pump for this use case" list includes "Foodstuff
Liquids" in the possible dangers list it says 'Foodstuff Liquid
contamination'

I wouldn't use that as a fresh water pump...

My old Jabsco 36600 pump was leaking pressure a few years back, after much
research for alternatives, I just rebuilt-it which took about 15-20 minutes
+ the time to get it off the boat.  There's a reason it costs almost
$500.00.  It's far more rugged / "rebuildable" than just about anything
else and it's also the most efficient from a pressure - flow  / electrical
consumption standpoint.  it's been 3-4 years and I have not had any issues
with it.

C knew what they were doing installing those pumps...

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Boat insurance...reimbursement vs. depreciated coverage

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I have agreed upon value with Allstate.  Straight-up agreed-upon value
coverage, 35-40% cheaper than Boat US and Geico.  (Geico's been insuring my
cars since the 90's but they wouldn't  / couldn't compete with Allstate.)

I'm on an inland lake / that most likely makes a difference.
Your actual mileage may vary.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Backstay mounting cracks

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi David,

I have the same system which I have improved with a better block system but
there is not even a hint of over-stressing the transom.  Of note: As per
one of the prior comments I always set the adjustment back to loose before
leaving the boat.

I use it / pull it all the way down pretty much every time I sail as the
dominant winds dictate being close hauled when going the length of the
lake.

It seems to me you should take a look at the pre-load on your mast and make
sure it's not excessive. Unless something else is amiss you potentially
have too much mast pre-load and are over-stressing the mounts.

You can check that by having the main halyard attached to the gooseneck,
pull it tight, and go in the cabin then look up through one of the small
hatches above the table.  You should see the halyard being about 2-3 inches
off the mast at the deepest pat of the curve ( roughly mid way up the mast
) with the backstay adjustment loose.

Adjusted that way you'll also see that the top of the mast moves about 6
inches when cranking on the backstay which seems plenty to get the desired
effects going up-wind.  I  literally see the boat point-up a few degrees
and accelerate when I crank on the backstay.

I hope that helps

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s) Mid East

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Sounds like fun!

I would make every effort to drive over.  I've toyed with going up to the
Northeast events a few times including this year but the extended trips
required didn't work with my schedule..

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Air Filter Media, Yanmar 3JH2E

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Personally, I'd leave it alone / no filter is necessary or beneficial if it
didn't have one from the factory.

The Yanmar guys have sold hundreds of thousands of those engines.. The
engineers know what they're doing.  How much dust is in suspension in your
enclosed / damp engine room?

If you introduce a filter you impede the flow of air and change the fuel /
air ratio : You create a fuel rich mixture. The simpleton mechanical fuel
injection systems on those things has no idea that anything has changed. No
computer control / MAF system like your car here.  Whatever it was set at
originally is where it sits for ever.

Those engines are bad enough on carbonizing due to the fact that they live
an easy life on a sailboat, you don't want to make the situation any worse.

My 2 cents...

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Engine cut out in rough seas

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I second the Biobor JF !

It's got to be good if it's Biobor Jean-Francois  (JF) Lol

All kidding aside, I've used it religiously and my fuel looks like
green-ish maple syrup.  Nice and clear.  Not only in the Racor but It's
been checked by shining a flashlight in the fuel tank inspection port,
clear as can be.

It's super concentrated, one bottle is good for more than a lifetime for me
(2,600 gallons)

https://www.amazon.com/Biobor-JF-Diesel-Fuel-Biocide/dp/B007ILFKS6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1=CjwKCAjwxaXtBRBbEiwAPqPxcJxCexe4-UiH7SDdx4ADjD-D2QWAEs0oVKwffq6jCcAATv_OF_u76xoCHh8QAvD_BwE=241631335410=c=9010777=g=1t1=e=7195482034710645276=aud-647846986441%3Akwd-6946444787=26614_9892224=biobor+jf=1571428140=8-1



Great stuff!

Jean-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA








* USE BIOBOR JF !

* Sorry to yell, but this is important.

* I learned this habit on a trip to FLA in 2000,  and have never had
any more black gunk or any problems.

* Bill Coleman

* Erie PA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sailtimer app and racing

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

 Dave's math is right.

These guys may know their stuff on software but they don't apparently don't
know much about racing a sailboat.  To win you have to work ALL the
details. Completely dismissing any of the components is professing
ignorance.

The racing software helps.. to a point.  I've used their stuff, it's nice
for the start line. I use the built-in stuff on the Zeus, it helps with
laylines and windshifts for example: can do an A <-> B on one tack vs
another for VMG to a given waypoint .

On VMG, both are useful, VMG to wind more so.  Tacking on headers is also
important but that has to be tempered with common sense and chasing puffs
as well...   Sometimes you sail from a good pressure zone to a calm area
and you effectively outrun your wind on momentum which makes it look like
you're getting headed...

+ Sail trim + rig setup, + fast bottom, + fast sails, + competent crew, +
luck,+ good start, + , +, +, +

Neat software helps, but ALL of it counts.. That's what makes it so much
fun, the never ending quest for the perfect run. :-)

Have fun racing, we're hoping for good wind on Wednesday!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List NMEA 0183 - Do I really need an Opto-Islator?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

There are a few ways to skin that cat.  I'm also an IT guy, we live for
workarounds :-)

Skin the cat #1  To Navico's point: It would probably be somewhat of a feat
to get the Zeus2 to recognize a 20 + year old WP 30 as a bonafide NMEA2000
modern day autopilot. Someone could spend months researching , write some
fancy code to fool the Zeus, build that into an Arduino board, plug it in
between, spend quite a few $$$ on ancillary stuff, and fool with it for
untold hours to make it work.  --- > not my speed.

Skin the cat #2:  Spend about $2,800 - $3,200 to get a proper controller
CPU / hydraulic  or $$ mechanical under the deck steering quadrant driving
system, build the fiberglass mounts needed, drop the rudder to fit, etc,
etc.  For all that you get to use the cool Zeus autopilot functions /
screens and have a robust blue water ready autopilot system.   Most likely
the thing to do for serious offshore work / not necessary for land locked
Lake Lanier Georgia.

Skin the cat # 3:  Play it safe and spend 200 bucks /  buy the Actisense
NMEA Buffer SBF-3-BAS to make sure you don't fry your 1,000 bucks +
chartplotter,  (
http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/marine/pc/Actisense-NMEA-Buffer-NBF-3-BAS-p532.htm)
and hook-up the Autopilot to use it's own Steer to wind function or follow
waypoints dictated  by your routes in Zeus.

You don't necessarily have to use the Zeus autopilot functions. Using the
video / NMEA0183 cable connected to Zeus and running it as designed it will
broadcast all the necessary wind  / depth / speed  / heading / cross track
/ waypoint information to NMEA0183.  The old WP30 is actually designed to
listen to that broadcast info and react accordingly (It's supposed to do it
quite well).  You just make sure your Zeus is on and configured to
broadcast then you hold the "Standby" WP30 button for a few seconds, and
click both left and right arrows (On the WP 30 controller) at the same
time.  Done!  Now the WP30 is a slave tho whatever Zeus is broadcasting and
everything is working as designed by Navico 20+ years ago.

Option #3 Works for me.

Best of luck with the project.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List NMEA 0183 - Do I really need an Opto-Islator?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Good am all,

I'm finally about to replace my old broken Navico wheel pilot with a
similar one I found used cheap.

I would like to network it with my B Zeus2 charplotter to allow the
"Steer to wind" feature.

- The Wheel pilot needs the old NMEA 0183 network connection and
fortunately the Zeus2 has a built-in feature to output NMEA 0183 in
addition to the new NMEA 2000 standard.

Question is:  Do I Really need to put an opto isolator between the two?
I've heard scary stories about ground loops destroying equipment.  NMEA
0183 has a + and - side / the wrong return current could go into the
networked device and ruin it.

The instruments and auto pilot are on separate circuits but on the same
common ground bus behind the switch panel.

I'm worried that the 25 year old power wire going to the autopilot could
somehow be a bit more resistive  / something goes wrong with the
replacement auto pilot and ruin my expensive chartplotter.

Anyone has experience with that?

- Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Engine compartment bilge pump and blower

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

  Hi Mike,

I  see your point on additional source of petroleum products..

Coming from a gas burning boat engine past I inquired about that when I
first got the boat, "You don't need one with a diesel" is the answer I
got.  Also, there is no blower or any indication that there ever was one
installed on my boat.  Apparently, C didn't think it was needed and the
applicable laws at the time of certification did not require it.

I don't carry gasoline on board / my dinghy is a kayak.  But if I was
cruising with cans full of gasoline in my lazarette, it's hard to argue
that it would not be a good idea to vent the area before starting the
engine

Regards,
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Cumming, GA



Whoa hold on there

I consider Persuasion a floating bomb.  I carry dinghy fuel, generator fuel
and propane in the lazerette.  So if you are a cruiser and carry various
petroleum products I would recommend running the blower.  Also my coast
guards friends to the south asked me in a had a blower and requested I turn
it on when I was boarded for an inspection

Mike

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 10:55 AM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> When to run a blower with a Diesel?
>
> Never.  That's part of the whole point of having a diesel in the first
place.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Engine compartment bilge pump and blower

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

When to run a blower with a Diesel?

Never.  That's part of the whole point of having a diesel in the first
place.

Best Regards,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

A couple more points.

First I want to mention that what ultimately helped me get through
the ordeal was Chuck Scheafer and this list.

I knew from having actually motored on Chuck's boat and that the Max Prop
would work well.  I went for the Flex O fold mostly because it was over
$1,000 cheaper and appeared to have less drag.

Chuck also put me in touch with another 34+ owner who's got a Flex-O-Fold
installed.  I called him / he has the same 16 X 12 Flex o Fold I was sent
and he also thought it was over-pitched. He can't get more than 2900-3000
RPM either. He also told me he's replaced his engine mounts and  has to
replace his cutlass bearing every other year.  After that conversation I
knew I had to get a different prop.

As for the comment about 2,850 RPM being an ideal RPM for the 3GM 30F
that's true.  It's the ideal cruising RPM. as stated by Yanmar in the
manual

However, according to Yanmar's dyno testing graph the engine  makes 16 HP
on the "Propeller Power Curve" at 2850 RPM.  The engine needs 3,400 RPM to
make it's max rating of 24 HP "Propeller Power".  If it's struggling to get
to 3000 in good weather, you might get to 2,700 - 2,800 in a stiff headwind
and waves. Personally, I would not want to be in a storm with an engine
struggling to make 16 HP  "Propeller power" pushing a 13,000 lbs 36 ft boat
through rough waters...

- Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Air Conditioning Installation Questions

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I know this one's been already extensively covered. But.

David Mocny whom also posts (Used to?)  on this list also installed A/C on
his 37+ some years ago.

He went with 2 units: A 16,000 BTU (If I remember right) in the back and a
smaller unit for the v-birth  / salon area.  I'm certain that he used the
v-birth sink through hull for the forward unit. I believe the forward unit
is installed under a settee somewhere.

It was quite the project, he showed me how he did it.

You should reach out to David / PM me if you need is phone number.

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

You're right the 34+, 34/36, 34 R's came with a variety of engines and
transmissions.  They had me submit both my engine serial # and a picture of
the transmission placard.  (Yanmar 3GM30F / Kanzaki 2.6:1 Ratio) and they
said: "Your engine is the most popular out there, we know what we're doing"

They didn't.  Max RPM was a struggling and smoking 3000-3100. Yanmar says
it should be 3,400 continuous / 3,600 1 hour rating.  That + on my boat:
the vibrations sounded / looked destructive.

I had a lot of time to research all that and this over-pitching thing is a
commonly done to make their product look more efficient.  The "Voile"
French Magazine did a  low drag prop test and they stated that a few
manufacturers had sent over pitched props / Flex o fold was the worst
offender.  The comment was that the Flex o Fold was very fuel efficient
but: "Be careful with the throttle, the prop is dangerously over-pitched,
you could damage your engine".

Live and learn..

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


---
Hi Francois,
 I had the same problem.  It turned out my 37+ was delivered with 2
different transmission ratios, and the previous owner had ordered the prop
for the wrong ratio.  I wonder if the 34+ is available with 2 different
transmission ratios.  Once they sent me the correct prop she was fine.
Agreed, they weren't the most friendly to deal with.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List The Low drag Prop saga is over!

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

 Last June, I took the opportunity to remove my old tired Martec prop and
send it to the factory for a rebuild while my boat was on the hard for a
new bottom paint,

Sounded like a great idea except that the post office lost the prop.

Upon realizing that the prop was gone for good, I did much research and
decided to buy a Flex-O-Fold 2 blades folder. I had to hurry and put my
order in before July 5th because Flex - O  - Fold was closing their
doors for "Summer Holiday" between July 10th and August 15th.  Can you
believe it? Yep, close the whole thing down right smack in the middle of
prime sailing season.

That should have been a clue about their customer service or lack thereof.

I got the prop direct from Denmark about a week after putting the order in
and had my diver buddy do the install.   The prop looked great but did not
perform well at all.  It was over pitched and vibrating really badly, worse
than my old tired Martec, my engine was smoking, vibrating, and generally
peeved from the lugging / overload.  I just had to put-up with it until mid
August when they came back from vacation.  After that It was one arguing
email after another on why I'm wrong, my engine is bad (It made 7.6 knots
on flat water with the old 3 fixed bladed prop), and in their infinite
wisdom they had "definitely" sent me the right prop / I was just not
appreciating it.  It finally ended with sending a picture of my
chartplotter clearly displaying 7.6 knots SOG while motoring  Then they
said: Send the whole thing back to us.

Truth to be told, all it probably needed was new blades with 1 inch less
pitch.  (They were 16 X 12) I was so fed-up with their crappy attitude, I
spent the 200 bucks and sent the thing back. They "Checked" it (Nothing
mechanically wrong, just wrong specs) and finally became decent / offered
to send my money back.

After the refund, I ordered a 2 blades 16" Max Prop Easy  / received it
last week / installed it yesterday.

It works!  My engine maxes-out at the Yanmar prescribed RPM, it's smoother
than I expected, almost as smooth as the fixed 3 blades prop, and the
reverse is phenomenal, just like everybody says.   As a bonus, according to
a German magazine test, it has less sailing drag than the Flex - O - Fold.

3 months later... It's done.  Good thing we sail all year long here.  I'd
be pretty upset If I had to put the boat away for the winter in a week or
two...

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Interior teak

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

For what it's worth, my cabin top handrails were varnished and looking
pretty bad.  I sanded them . and they look new. It was pretty easy to sand,
it should work out well for you.

Good Luck with the project.

regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Bilge cleaner

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

I just pour some of Starbrite's cleaner in my sump.  Works well.  I  tend
to mostly use Starbrite stuff for cleaning these days.  I found that their
products typically perform much better than brand X and are often cheaper.
It's on sale 40% off at West right now.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/star-brite--seasafe-bilge-cleaner--186181?recordNum=5

Good luck with the cleaning!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Marinco solar vent motor

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I replaced mine about 4 years ago, it's still running 24/7 * 12 months a
year.

I also replaced the NiMH battery at the same time, I used an Eneloop "C"
size, don't think those are still available. They sell a "C" adapter for
their AA battery or you can just buy a regular NiMH "C" or sub "C" cell

At the time, I looked everywhere for higher quality motor but couldn't find
it, so I bought a $2.00 motor.

I believe this is what I used:
https://www.homesciencetools.com/product/motor-electric-dc-0-5-6-volt/

I had to do some minor mods to it: If I remember right I wrapped a couple
layers of tape around it to insure a tight fit in the housing as the
diameter is slightly smaller than the Marinco original motor and I also
used small zip ties to help secure the original impeller to the shaft.
Beyond that, it's a simple matter of soldering the small capacitor and
leads as per the original.

I can check for you  / take pictures when I go to my boat which should be
tomorrow or Wednesday.

Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Russ,

I had alternator issues (Diodes)  I looked into having refurbed and found
it wasn't worth fooling with.  I found a shiny, brand new,  genuine Hitachi
(Yanmar's OEM) alternator for about $75.00- 80.00 shipped on eBay.  I just
put it in myself, it was a plug and play 30-45 minutes install.  At least
on my boat, it was one of the easiest  / most accessible things to
replace.  The new one worked much better than my old tired one when it was
working "correctly". That was 5 years ago.  Never had a problem since.

When you think about it, especially if it's the 30 some year old original,
the brushes are worn, the bearings are worn, the windings have seen better
days.. The whole thing is worn-out.  You'd have to replace pretty much
everything on the alternator. After some research, I found that buying a
shiny new one was cheaper than having my old one re-furbished locally.

Here's an actual Yanmar brand Item for $160.00 (Pretty good price for OEM)
:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/YANMAR-MARINE-NEW-LR155-20-ALTERNATOR-BRAND-NEW/113838371817?hash=item1a814bb3e9:g:KtIAAOSwfX9czbyu

Here's a cheaper after market option:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Alternator-Yanmar-Marine-2GMFL-2GMFY-2GML-2GMYE-3GM30-3JH2-3JH3E-4JH-12107/292921047799?hash=item4433747af7:g:bloAAOSwSudcL7xl

Best of luck with the project.

Francois Rivard.
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List satellite receiver install - does canvas matter?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I would call Sirius and ask.

I've had Sirius XM in my cars since 2008 and any kind of obstruction
absolutely blocks the signal.  Even tree leaves which are not contiguous
block the signal.

Same for home receivers, heck they loose signal when obstructed by thick
clouds from a storm

Unless there's some kind of magic to the boat receivers, it needs a view of
the sky.

>From Sirius's website:  Make sure the radio has a clear view to the sky (not
blocked by a garage, large trees, or buildings).

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Driveshaft Castel Nut Thread size

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Good afternoon all.

I need some help figuring out on the thread castle nut used to hold the
prop on my 34+ .  It's a 1 1/8 stainless steel shaft with a tapered end.  I
know the thread is not 3/4 - 10 because I bought replacement castle nut
with that thread and they did not work, it looked small .

 Long story short I sent my Martec folding prop for a rebuild while I was
in the yard and the post office lost it.  I was able to get back in the
water using my old fixed 3 blader and now I'm looking to replace the prop
with a new Flex - O - Fold.

I have all the other specs I need but I don't know the thread on the castle
nut.  I did not see any marking on the old one nor do I see any info in the
specs listed in the owner's manual.

Again, it's not 3/4 - 10, it might be a metric size?

Thanks in advance for your help

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Pettit

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I used Perfection on my cove stripe 5 years ago, I just looked at it in the
yard today after pulling it out of the water for the first time in 5 years
and I still have... Perfection.

When I applied it 5 years ago like you, I picked the wrong time of day  /
got direct sunlight and I had to sand it  / do it over.  That was also
trying to roll / tip / I wasn't that good at it.

Long story short I had to sand / do it over a few times (I'm a bit OCD too)
but 3 coats later I did it first thing on a cooler morning, I brushed /
tipped it with a really soft bristle, didn't over brush it, Eureka!  Mirror
finish where you see your reflection with color..  5 years later and being
submerged while sailing / getting hit by waves, etc.   Still a perfect
mirror finish.  No need to do anything to it.

I'm very partial to Perfection now.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Offshore Boat

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Like Chuck,

I'm guilty of bragging about the competition crushing speed of my 34+ and
her 40 footer like accommodations but I also came close to making an offer
on a Hunter 37.5.

If you google it a bit, you'll find a guy who's circumnavigated a few times
over on a Hunter 37.5.

I also have a (Wealthy) good friend who cruises the Mediterranean all
winter long every year on an old Beneteau 40.

" FWIW, A wiser gentleman once told me, "every boat is someone's dream", so
I am careful not to bash other brands or other dreams."

Well said Chuck

Have a great weekend.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 34 genoa sheets

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi,

I use 1/2 inch Sta.  Easy on the hands, best bang for the buck.  No need
for any shackle just use a "Luggage Tag Hitch " or "Girth Hitch" knot.
There are enough opportunities for this thing to snag during tacks as it
is.

I've been using the luggage tag hitch on all my foresail uses for
several years. No issues.  Simpler is better.  :-)

Here's how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Z8-y0Ag8vo

-Francois
1990 34/36 "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Winterizing water system

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Marek,

We don't worry about it.  The pink stuff is the backup for the backup...

I run 2 "True North" heaters with one set at the lowest "No Freeze" setting
in case the main one fails.  The Pink stuff is in case both stop because of
extended power failure that could caused by a bad spell of freezing rain
making branches to fall on power lines around the marina's neighborhood.

That's happened only once or twice in the past 10 years or so.

Other than that we sail all winter anyway.  We went a couple weekends ago:
Temps in the 50's  and  winds in the mid teens. :-)  You can usually count
on at least one weekend in the 60' - 70's on any given month, even in
January.

Fall, winter, and spring are the best sailing seasons around here.

Stay warm!

Happy Thanks giving Y'all.

Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five
Cumming, GA


Francois,

How do you make sure that there is no water in the pump if you have the T
_after_ the pump?

I guess in GA it is not a big deal (your winter is not as cold as here; I
imagine you are hovering just below the freezing point).

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Winterizing water system

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi All,

Pretty straightforward here:

Emptying the tanks:
I Just run the tanks dry by running the water thorough the faucets normally
then clean / dry the tanks using paper towels through the access ports.

Adding the pink stuff:
There's a "T" fitting after the pump (Alleviates having to run alcohol
through it) Just pump it in using $7.00 Walmart hand pump. Keep pumping
until the stuff coming out pink of all faucets. I check 'em one by one,
including the shower head .

30 minutes effort.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier,GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Filling diesel tank

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I just use the regular cheapo yellow plastic 5 gal Jerry can I bought at
Advance Auto parts..

When I first saw it I didn't care for the "over engineered" spout system
now mandated by the feds but it turns-out to work really well.   It does
not allow the fuel to flow until you press the spout into the filler which
makes it super easy to tilt the spout into the filler without spilling...
 It's equally easy to fill from the cockpit or the dock.

Works perfectly.  I keep a paper towel / bottle of Windex handy in case a
couple drops get loose when I pull it out at the end.

-Francois
1990 34+ 'Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Lithium Batteries LiFe vs Lipo

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Just a quick note as a lifetime R/C planes guy with a fair amount of
experience experimenting with battery chemistry..

The "Lithium" batteries referred to by Joel are NOT the same as the
exploding laptop / phone batteries you hear about on the news.

The batteries in Laptops / Phones / Electric cars are Lithium Ion Polymer
(LiPo) batteries.  They offer the best energy density or "Power to weight"
of the regular commercially available batteries but they are more sensitive
to mishandling hence the bad rep.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_polymer_battery

The "litium" batteries referred to by Joel are *lithium iron phosphate
(LiFePO**4) *commonly known as LiFe batteries.   They are a "reasonable
Compromise" batteries that much higher energy density than Lead Acid / not
as much as LiPo but are also much more stable than LiPo / less likely to
misbehave if handled incorrectly..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_iron_phosphate_battery


Quote from an electrical engineering forum:

The main advantage of Life is safety. Lipos begin self heating at
temperatures as low as 60°c, and once the interior starts to burn the whole
battery rapidly 'explodes' into flames, setting fire to anything nearby.
LiFe is more resistant to thermal runaway, 'cooks off' at higher
temperature, and burns much less energetically.

In other words: LiFe's are pretty safe and being much lighter than Lead
acid, make a nice improvement over older chemistry.  It's really more a
question of price / how bad you want to save the weight.

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Grateful 34+ sailor

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Rob,

Very cool to "see" you on the list.  I have the privilege to own a 1990 34+
and 5 years into owning it I'm still amazed at how far ahead of its time
this boat was.

My boat was originally a NY great lake boat, then moved to Florida, and
eventually Lake Lanier (Near Atlanta).  I believe I'm the 4th owner and I'm
fortunate enough to know the prior owners personally. I love to hear the
tales of Mahi caught off the walk through transom and how they sailed my
boat across the Caribbean all the way down to Tortuga.

We race the boat regularly and even my good racer friends love to hate us
on the race course.  Comments like: "It's not fair to have a boat with a
wine cabinet out-point my sport boat" and "how much diesel did you burn to
go this fast in this little wind?", and "there should be a class just for
C's" abound.  :-)

All that in a boat with a comfortable cabin for my family of 4 to spend
weekends.  Another comment from a fellow weekender regarding our boat's
accommodations was: "I'm staying at Motel 6, y'all are at the Marriott"

I love that dual personality of the helm responding like my old 470's
tiller and the Marriott accommodations.

Thanks for creating such a fantastic package.

Best Regards,
Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Glad you didn't buy my boat :-)

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Richard,

I was in the middle of extended negotiations when you came down to look at
the boat.  The broker told me about you guys coming (Hoping it would
motivate me)  / I held firm hoping you wouldn't put a competing offer
forward.

I'm glad it all worked out well.

Nice to "Meet you"

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


 Francois; thank you for a clear and understandable explanation; not being
mechanically inclined, I need that kind of information! ? I looked at your
vessel prior to purchasing my current boat; we thought it was a great boat,
and the only reason we passed was that we had an offer pending which was
eventually accepted. ?

 Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 602.5
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fun ride on Saturday afternoon...

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4xyU67zgySwT1zkSA

Sailing on Flo's coattails Saturday. Steady 12-15 knots winds with bouts in
the mid 20's, pretty sporty joyride :-)

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Engine Ventilation

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Jim / Chuck

I would absolutely look at the elbow.  I replaced pretty much everything on
my 3GM30F's cooling system except the heat exchanger chasing cooling issues
and the main culprit was the elbow, which eventually was 100% obstructed.
The added pressure in the system caused my aging hoses to fail and
ultimately killed the water pump too.

Oh and BTW, mine had a very small exhaust leak / hairline fracture that was
impossible to see because it's on shower side. The leak caused some hard to
explain smells (I had replaced all the exhaust hoses a couple years prior).
Also, my wife sometimes had headaches after spending time in the cabin as
she was getting stuff put away while we were motoring home back to the
marina...

I'm glad the whole system is now fresh (Parts weren't too expensive) and
optimal but I could have saved myself some $$ and headaches if I would have
looked at the elbow first.  I didn't / looked at it last because all the
"experts" told me not to worry about it.

It seems like a really hard job to get the rust seized elbow off the riser
on our boats (I have a 1990 34+, same boat as yours) and yes, it's nearly
impossible.

The good thing is: You don't have to.  Just remove the riser off the
exhaust manifold, that's an easy 3 minute job removing 2 bolts.  I bought a
new riser along with the new elbow for almost nothing getting one as a
take-off (They "come with" the engine install kit and many engines no
longer need it / the installers are happy to get rid of 'em). I gladly
tossed the whole rusted-up assembly.

Even if the elbow "looks fine" from the outside: sediments / carbon
deposits / heat  / gravity will plug it up.  "Better" stainless elbows
plug-up the same way.

Fan back-up is not necessary (I live in Georgia where it hits over 100
degrees in the summer, never a problem with a properly working system)

2800 RPM is optimal cruising speed according to Yanmar and the engine Dyno
sheet.  I run it at a minimum of 2800 RPM and run it in the 3200-3400 range
(Wide open or close to it) regularly.  The engine is a 900cc 3 cylinder
unit making 27-29 hp pushing ad 6+ton boat though the water.  It needs RPM
to do that and is designed as a "High Revving" engine (By diesel
standards).

The 3GM30F really is different from the larger 4 cyl Universal and other
units often seen on similarly sized boats, they are happy to rev 1800-2100
all day, ours isn't and the transmission  / prop pitch are not geared that
way either.  My engine was known as  "Hard Starter" by the local mechanics,
it was quite recalcitrant to deal with at any weekends' initial start when
I first got it. (P.Os were a bit to "easy" on it and it was fouled-up
inside)  After a season of harder running / steady diet of Diesel Kleen
additive it became much smoother and starts within seconds instead of what
used to be a 10-15 minutes fight on Friday nights / Saturday mornings the
get the bi$ch going.

You should see 7.0 knots or so top speed at 3400 rpm's if your hull is
clean.  If you don't then clean your hull and check your prop pitch.  It's
possible some P.O over-propped it (Over pitching seems to be frequently
advised by prop vendors, it's no good for our setup). Both can be complicit
in causing over-heating issues.

Finally, it's possible that the steam you see is just a fact of life in
your neck of the woods.  I see a fair amount of steam on my boat when we
use it in the cooler months (We sail all year long).

I would check the Elbow no matter what though, it's a 5-10 minute job using
the riser trick.

Best of luck with the project / contact me off list if you need more
details.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA





On Behalf Of James Bibb via CnC-List

Cc: James Bibb
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3gm Ventilation

OK?engine seems to run warm/hot?temp is not above 180 but I?m not running
at 3,000 RPM, usually 2800.  ?couple of questions?.

Lot?s of steam out the exhaust which I believe is more do to the balance of
coolant water in either muffler or the mixture elbow.  I sometimes remove
the engine access panels on either side and I notice an easy 5-10 degree
drop in temperature from the gauge.

I?ve checked the coolant, impeller, heat exchanger for clear and the
thermostat last year.  Haven?t checked past the coolant elbow or into the
muffer.

Does anybody have any experience and does anybody introduce a fan back-up
cooling system into the engine compartment and if so how do they and where
do they vent on a sailboat through the hull or deck?

Does the steam indicate overheating or based on temperature am I running
fine?

Other question, what RPM do folks run their engine at for cruising speed?

James Bibb
SV Darwin?s Folly
1991 C 34/36R
Juneau, Alaska
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Deck core repair advice sought

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi James,

I would remove some of the deck hardware around the mast and double check.
I don't believe that the coachwork area is cored and where you see the
issues it's than likely just compression damage on the Coromat.  I.E I'm
fairly confident that there's no rot and you could more than likely easily
fix using penetrating epoxy.

I have a 34+ (Same boat) and some of the dodger fasteners were failing in
that same area near the head and across the other side.  I removed them and
checked the holes (Through holes all the way)  As far as I could tell there
was NO coring whatsoever.  If there was Coromat, it's pretty thin.  See
here for more details:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm
More interesting stuff here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/perry/c

The side decks and the foredeck (Where you walk) are cored.

Bottom line: remove some of the blocks on the foot of the mast to check the
holes / see the layup, I'd surprised if you actually see coring around that
area.

As for the Boot, I got one from Holland Marine a few years back.  it fits
about as  perfectly as but it's pretty hard to make it completely leak
proof.

Good luck with it.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Holy Crap

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hey, Nothing that about $200,000.00 and 2+ years of solid work wouldn't
fix..

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1982/C%26C--3232551/Deale/MD/United-States?
refSource=standard%20listing#.W1ZvV7gnaUk

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Vinyl Stripe

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

 Holland Marine (http://www.hollandmarine.com/) in Toronto has the original
C stars and diamond pattern to add the finished factory look to your
stripe.


I used those on my boat when I re-did the strip 4 years ago, I used a
Bayliner blue stripe (From https://greatlakesskipper.com ) that had the
correct spacing built into the backing.  It came out looking very
professional.

Good Luck with the project.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Catharsis message

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,

I'm truly sorry.. It happens, most of us can confess to bottoming out.  I
my 5 years I've run aground twice here on the lake in much less challenging
situations. I was fortunate the bottom here is mostly mud.

I know how stuffs gets a bit crazy as you cross the finish line in less
than ideal conditions, my only crash jibe (Broke a Cunningham shackle)
happened at a regatta where the finish line was a bit too close to shore in
a fairly stiff wind..

As for preventive measures: My always there, permanently mounted B
plotter has saved my bacon countless times. The fact that it plots
optimized laylines and gives you tack for tack VMG analysis doesn't hurt
the racing either :-)

Best of luck with the repairs, make sure the fiberglass repairs are done
with real Isophtalic resin (Not the cheap orthophtalic stuff everybody
uses) and Kevlar mat as per the original layup.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


rom: David Knecht
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 11:18 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List Catharsis message

It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my
depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and
therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that
could help as well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday
and is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We
were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a
local marina.  The damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it
could have been.  When they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef
(tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the
shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the
rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed
up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is now
forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C parts),
and I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one
was hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have
an appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes
at sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.

I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of
all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would
never ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during
a race a few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and
speed, in that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other
than racing with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from
other things.  We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island
sound.  It was blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the
course and the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish
heading due North toward the CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was
happy that we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to
the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to
parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a deep
breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns out that the
Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East of the single
offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or recognized) the buoy
because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the finish and I was
looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we jibed, it was
essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I looked around
when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards inshore
and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have
seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was
relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was
the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I
presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we
were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an issue
until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not recognize
precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us turned
East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the turn.

If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this,
I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me
concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing
in general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same 

Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I had the same symptoms on mine, at first I just made sure my batteries
were on "All" at least at the beginning of the weekend and that bought me a
couple years..

Then I replaced the button switch as there's no relay and it takes the
brunt of the current.  That bought me another year.

It came back last year I just called Mastry Yanmar in Florida (
http://www.mastry.com/) and for a couple hundred bucks I bought a rebuilt
starter that has twice the warranty of the Yanmar OEM.

I should have gotten it years ago.  It spins faster, uses less juice, is
great and it was an easy 45-50 minutes swap.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

You don't want the Edson idler plate anyway because they are made out of
mild steel which is not suited for the application and why they corrode
into oblivion. (We have the same issues on the 34+ , 34/36, 36+, and 34R
variants

If your's is still decent you can send it to Garhauer
https://www.garhauerstore.com  they'll make you a better out of stainless
steel for less money.

Ask Chuck for details, I believe he had his done there.

Best Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Diesel Injectors

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

If you're looking at blue smoke it's not as likely to be the injectors.
Injectors usually get linked to black smoke / an overly rich mixture.

Blue smoke is more likely compression related or somehow the lube oil blows
by the rings and burns (It seals-up as the metal expands upon warming up)
But it's not necessarily caused by worn-out cylinder / piston assemblies.
It could be as simple as a using oil that's too thin for your engine and/or
conditions or a valve  / valve guide leak which can be fixed with a valve
job and/or a top end cleanup / rebuild. From what I've read, quite common
on sailboat diesels

Here's some good reading on the subject:
https://www.cruisingworld.com/how/read-those-smoke-signals
https://www.boats.com/how-to/diesel-engine-smoke-blue-black-or-white/

I would have a competent local guy check it out.  If the smoke is not
persistent he will more than likely tell you to make sure you use fresh
fuel / put some good fuel additives to prevent gumming and bacteria growth
/ keep the oil fresh / keep on sailing and don't worry.

Good Luck,

Francois Rivard
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List North Nordac Sails

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I would have a Nordac 3Di as my 135 Genoa and probably as a main if North
didn't try to extort money from me..

Last october, I put in an order fro the 3Di Nordac 135% genoa complete with
a 50% deposit.

A month later, instead of an update on the progress of the order, my local
loft got a ransom note email from North demanding another 20% in order to
start building the sail.

That wasn't another 20% down on the original deal. That was a 20% hike in
price AFTER all was signed / sealed / delivered with a few grand of my
money in advance.

The wouldn't budge or negotiate on anything.  I told them to stuff it and
send my money back or else.

Bastards.

Instead, we called Shurr Sails in Pensacola and I got full suite with a
tri-radial Spectra 135 genoa  and Main for just a couple thou more than the
overpriced 135 from North.

http://www.schurr-sails.com/

The sails are awesome!  I'm very happy with the purchase. We've only been
out a few times / still learning how to optimize but they are definitely
fast.  Being made out of Spectra (Same stuff they use to make Dyneema) they
should last / keep their shape for a long time.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Amazing USCG rescue - Anybody else see this?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Thanks for sharing, it's a well written and poignant story.

I think it's easy to find faults from a distance.  I'm also of the opinion
that younger / tougher sailors would have sailed home as the mast was still
up, the sails there, the boat wasn't taking on water, and the inoperable
pumps sounded fixable since they were supposedly only clogged by paper..

But I wasn't there.

In my mind 2 things were much harder to fix:

1) They were a couple of exhausted / beaten 70 year old folks showing
physical signs of distress coming from off-shore exposure and hypothermia.

2) The dinghy / life raft were gone.  If the boat did start to sink, they
had no options.

It's pretty clear that they "gave up" on a likely to be fixable situation
but the real issue was that they were also really worried that either one
or both could fall seriously ill or worse before they could reach the
shore.

I wouldn't want to be the widower that caused his / her better half to
perish by saying: "He/ she'll be just fine" the boat's replaceable.


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

You could also call Rick Zern 850.261.4129 (http://zernrigging.com)

Great guy, he's definitely Navtec certified some say he's the best Navtec
guy in the Southeast.

He's in Pensacola, your neck of the woods. Heck, you could drive your
adjuster over in a pinch...

Good luck on the project.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List DARK SIDE

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Our Typical beercan races were 2.6 - 2.8 nm so it's 198-102= We owe them 96
sec per mile X 2.6 - 2.8 = 4:30 to 4:48 or close to 5 minutes for us LOL.

We were Typically less then 30 seconds ahead in corrected time so always a
nail biter on both sides (A tribute to how well the PHRF systems works when
implemented correctly).  Both teams started their stopwatches as Take Five
(us) crossed the finish line to see how close we were to the magic 4:40.
:-)


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

On Mon, Jun 25, 2018 at 10:48 AM, Francois Rivard <
jeanfrancoisriv...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yep I hear you on that.
>
> There's a few Catalina 27's on my lake too with phrfs ranging from 198
> -213.  The 198 phrf boat is said to be an ex national champion with the
> hull's gelcoat ground-off to save weight..
>
> He's good sailor (British chap), had fresh sails,  was a tough nut to
> crack, especially in light winds.  He didn't outpoint us, but in corrected
> time our 102 phrf meant that we had to finish a country mile ahead of 'em
> to beat 'em.
>
> We did beat 'em and won the season but it was really close pretty much
> every Wed nite, we had great time trading jabs and became friends..
>
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List DARK SIDE

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Yep I hear you on that.

There's a few Catalina 27's on my lake too with phrfs ranging from 198
-213.  The 198 phrf boat is said to be an ex national champion with the
hull's gelcoat ground-off to save weight..

He's good sailor (British chap), had fresh sails,  was a tough nut to
crack, especially in light winds.  He didn't outpoint us, but in corrected
time our 102 phrf meant that we had to finish a country mile ahead of 'em
to beat 'em.

We did beat 'em and won the season but it was really close pretty much
every Wed nite, we had great time trading jabs and became friends..

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List recommendations for a small bilge pump

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

I have this Johnson pump (
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/johnson-pump--cartridge-bilge-pumps--P011_330_001_541?recordNum=17)
in mine in conjunction with a Water Wich. The pump is the small  / cheap
one as my sump space is extremely limited. It's been in there 4 years / so
far it's been flawless.  The Wich is truly impervious to bilge crap.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Alternator Charging both banks?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Thanks guys,

I'll double check the wiring next time.   I do have 2 banks consisting  of
3 batteries: 1 smaller unit (Still "Marine Deep cycle" ) as a starting
battery and 2 larger ones connected in parallel as house.

I also have a "smart" Xantrex Truecharge2 charger.  Since we sometimes
can't make it to the boat for several weeks at a time, especially in the
winter (We sail 12 months a year) I pretty much always leave the charger on
when the boat is at the dock to make sure the batteries stay topped-off.

Outside of replacing the house batteries 2 years ago and the starting
battery this year (They're cheapo Walmart batteries and were 5-7 years old)
Everything was working perfect until a last week, now the the charger is
throwing an error / might be fried so I'm looking at this charging thing in
greater details.

I'll let you guys know what I find out about the charger / what I'll do
about it.

Thanks again.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Alternator Charging both banks?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Do you guys know if the alternator charges all the batteries all the time?

I was under the impression that the selector switch effectively directed
all the current from the battery banks including charging from the
alternator and I usually run on "both" to make sure all the batteries get
exercised.  Now that I might be looking for a new charger (Different story)
and I'm looking into this charging thing deeper / I'm reading on the web
that the alternator might actually be charging both all the time regardless
of the switch position?

We mostly daysail and don't require much from the batteries so I thought it
would be a good idea to have them all involved both in charging and
discharging so I typically use the "Both" option on the switch.

Now I'm thinking I should maybe just use position 1 except when at anchor
or for extended night cruises?

Thanks,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Outhaul replacement, C 37/40+

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

Mine is all Sta Set on our 34+ it's directly connected to the sail via a
shackle and a simple bowline knot.  It works perfectly. The boat is much
the same as the 37+ as it was Rob Ball's 37+ version 2.0  / a few feet
shorter.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 36 Kite Rigging

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

On a 36?  Unless you have a carbon pole / The Incredible Hulk  / or both on
your foredeck: You gotta use Dip Pole and in anything more than a light
breeze a full complement of fore / after guys

As you know my boat is really a 36 footer and my spin is over 800 sq / ft.
In addition to having specific ends my pole is big / long / heavy, and the
loads are substantial.  No flipping this one around.

Have Fun!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List mainsheet set-up

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

That's a great setup Josh.

Ours is a bear for similar reasons with even less leverage on the cabin-top
traveler.

So far we just grinned and beared it. I'll put something similar on the to
do list :-)

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia


My boat came setup from the PO with a cabin top mainsheet control to a
cabin top winch.  It was painfully under powered even with the winch.  My
traveler is located in the cockpit on the aft edge of the forward bench.  I
had previously, on other boats, only ever used a 4:1 mainsheet which was
trimmed at the traveler.  A convenient setup for tacking with a limited
crew or singlehanded.

The PO had tried a 6:1 or 8:1 trimmed at the traveler but justifiably
complained that there was too much extra line to be tripped on and tangled
in the cockpit or thrown below in the cabin.

I had seen the stacked fiddle block setup that makes 3:1/6:1 or 4:1/8:1.
While innovative, I decided that the bulk of the line would still be under
foot in the cockpit 95% of the time.

I ended up designing a cascading system which gives me a 12:1 "tweaker"
which is readily available in the cockpit and a 3:1 which runs to the cabin
top winch for the deep down wind runs.  TBH the tweaker and the traveler
together usually give enough range for all but the deepest down wind runs.
Even though the 3:1 is terminated at a winch it is extremely rare that we
need to use it since the traveler and tweaker are available to make up for
that which the 3:1 cannot.

Based in your picture it appears that my setup may be useful on your boat.
Basically you would eliminate either the port or starboard control which
you currently have.  Install a 4:1 or 6:1 fiddle block between boom and
traveler, and have the free end now terminate with a cam cleat at the
traveler side.  With no other purchase changes it looks like a 4:1 could be
arranged to produce 5:1 compounded with the existing 2:1 and you would have
10:1.  With the compromise of more line on the deck you could push it to
12:1 or 14:1 with the application of a 6:1 instead.  Here is a link to some
pictures of my setup.  If you need more description or better pictures just
let me know.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yY3Qtbi1VSllwM3M

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

The only way I know of is to use another tach...  That doesn't have to be
expensive or complicated.  I used my R/C airplanes optical tach to validate
mine and it worked fine.  You paint a sliver or white stripe on the shaft /
shine a flashlight on it / point the tach at it.

They are about 20-30 bucks

R/C Tachometer:
https://www.amazon.com/Hangar-Micro-Digital-Tachometer-HAN156/dp/B0006N72U2

Automotive Optical Tachometer:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20713A-Tachometer-Accuracy-Batteries/dp/B000I5LDVC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial=UTF8=1527864869=1-2-spons=optical+Tachometer=1

Good Luck,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA






Good points Francois, I have meant to take a good look at the prop and
probably do need to send it off for reconditioning.

I know the bottom is a little dirty and so is the prop. But even when
everything was freshly painted I still had this issue. It starts up very
easily which makes me think that I'm running it at a decent load.

Is there a way to determine the reliability and accuracy of the Tach?


On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 9:30 AM Francois Rivard 
wrote:
Hi Kevin,

In addition to making sure the transmission is fully engaged (We had that
issue too, for me, it was solved with a simple cable adjustment), it sounds
like you should jump in the water and take a good look at your prop. What
you need to do is grab the blades and wiggle them against the folding axis.
So, not following the folding movement, the other axis -> back and forth.
If the tip moves more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch the hub and blades need a
rebuild.

The Martecs only go so long before needing a rebuild which consists of
reaming the pivot axis hole and installing a larger diameter pivot shaft.
It sounds like a big deal but it's not: Last time I had it done Martec did
it for $80.00 plus shipping.

The 3GM30F (I have one on my boat) is a small displacement engine (950 CC)
and by diesel standards: A High revver. It needs to cruise between 2800 and
3000 rpm and should run about 3400 rpm flat out.  If it's in good shape and
it can't achieve that something is amiss: Too much pitch on the prop /
dirty and draggy bottom  / combination of both.

When I had my prop redone Martec sold me higher pitch blades saying it
would "Run better"  It didn't. All I got was cavitation and vibrations.
Going back to the original blades solved the issue.  Yes, the blades with
more pitch were pitted (Obvious sign of cavitation), they looked like they
were infested with little crustaceans that don't exist in a lake.

When Yanmar says you should run the engine at those RPM they are not
kidding.  Prior owners of my boat ran it at low rpm too often and turned
the engine into a "Hard Starter" (What the local mechanics called it) as
not enough load and RPM caused excessive carbon deposits / fouled the
injectors / messed-up the whole thing.  it was literally a  5-10 minutes
battle to get the engine running on the first start of the weekend every
time we used the boat when we first got it.

I "fixed" the issue by running it at prescribed RPM / running it wide open
for at least 10-15 mins every weekend / using Diesel Kleen Power service
injector cleaner.  It took over 20 gallons to really make a difference but
now the engine starts within a few seconds every time when cold and
immediately fires-up for the rest of the weekend.

Good Luck,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

In addition to making sure the transmission is fully engaged (We had that
issue too, for me, it was solved with a simple cable adjustment), it sounds
like you should jump in the water and take a good look at your prop. What
you need to do is grab the blades and wiggle them against the folding axis.
So, not following the folding movement, the other axis -> back and forth.
If the tip moves more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch the hub and blades need a
rebuild.

The Martecs only go so long before needing a rebuild which consists of
reaming the pivot axis hole and installing a larger diameter pivot shaft.
It sounds like a big deal but it's not: Last time I had it done Martec did
it for $80.00 plus shipping.

The 3GM30F (I have one on my boat) is a small displacement engine (950 CC)
and by diesel standards: A High revver. It needs to cruise between 2800 and
3000 rpm and should run about 3400 rpm flat out.  If it's in good shape and
it can't achieve that something is amiss: Too much pitch on the prop /
dirty and draggy bottom  / combination of both.

When I had my prop redone Martec sold me higher pitch blades saying it
would "Run better"  It didn't. All I got was cavitation and vibrations.
Going back to the original blades solved the issue.  Yes, the blades with
more pitch were pitted (Obvious sign of cavitation), they looked like they
were infested with little crustaceans that don't exist in a lake.

When Yanmar says you should run the engine at those RPM they are not
kidding.  Prior owners of my boat ran it at low rpm too often and turned
the engine into a "Hard Starter" (What the local mechanics called it) as
not enough load and RPM caused excessive carbon deposits / fouled the
injectors / messed-up the whole thing.  it was literally a  5-10 minutes
battle to get the engine running on the first start of the weekend every
time we used the boat when we first got it.

I "fixed" the issue by running it at prescribed RPM / running it wide open
for at least 10-15 mins every weekend / using Diesel Kleen Power service
injector cleaner.  It took over 20 gallons to really make a difference but
now the engine starts within a few seconds every time when cold and
immediately fires-up for the rest of the weekend.

Good Luck,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List problem getting the raw water flowing

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

We had the same problem a couple years ago, it was the elbow.

Many "Experts" told me not to waste time with the elbow on a freshwater
boat.  Wrong.

Duly following the "expert" advice I fixed / replaced everything else and
reamed all the tubes in the heat exchanger using wood dowels. It was not an
entirely bad exercise as some tubes were in fact clogged, the pump bearings
and "cam" were iffy (The cam is not a replaceable item), and the belt as
well as all the rubber hoses had seen better days.

But in the end elbow was completely sealed shut by deposits.

I did a lot of research on this here's the bottom line:

- If your elbow is rusted in place  / un-removable from the riser: Remove
and replace the riser too. The riser is easy to remove /  I got a brand new
one almost free as they are a common take-off item these days

- Elbows self-destruct in freshwater the same as saltwater. The deposits
are the real problem. Much like seawater, lake water is a soup loaded with
stuff in suspension that gets separated from the water because of the heat
and steam / the very shape of the elbow and gravity does the rest. No
matter what metal it's made out of.

-From all the research I've done stainless elbows get stuffed-up at the
same rate as cast iron units and the corrosion resistance is pretty much
immaterial as they clog-up  / need to be replaced as well.

- If the elbow would have been replaced sooner, my hoses would not have
been exposed to high pressure which caused leaks and their ultimate
somewhat premature demise. I think the same could be said about my pump.  I
was eating through impellers like they were dirty underwear because it had
to work that much harder to push water through a partially obstructed
elbow. The cam wear is probably related to that as well (Not 100% sure on
that)

- Checking the elbow yearly or every 2 years is a great idea.

- Once you get the hang of it, they're pretty easy to remove / replace,
even in my extremely cramped engine compartment.

My 2 cents.

Good luck on the project.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 34+ / 37+ Layup schedule

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Thomas,

Below is what I know about the layup schedule on the 34 / 37 + boats. I got
this off a forum somewhere (Not this one) a few years ago.

Topsides (total thickness 1.19")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat

Bottom (total thickness 1.23")
1. Gelcoat
2. 1.5 oz. Chop
3. 1.5 oz. Mat
4. C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat
5. 1” Balsa Core
6. C72K/100 Kevlar Fabmat

Tuck area at turn of bilge to keel sump two (2) additional layers of
C77K/200 Kevlar Fabmat are added to the interior layer of the bottom
schedule for a total thickness of 1.39"  Keel sump has Balsa replaced by
two (2) layers of Compositex.

DuPont Aramat C72K/200 seems to have been an E-glass/Kevlar hybrid weave.
The following is all I could find out about the stuff on the web:

Composition of the glass/Kevlar hybrid, DuPont's Aramat 72K/200:

ComponentG/SQ.MOZ/SQ.YD  Wt. % in Base Fabric Wt. %
inTotal Fabric
Glass Fiber 245.6   7.2 63
41.1
Kevlar 49144.0   4.2 37
  24.0
Mat Backing200.0   5.9 --
 33.5
Stitching Yarn 8.0   0.2 --
 1.4
Total   597.6 17.5


Hydrex is a trade name for a product line from Reichhold Chemicals. The
original product was a VE/DCPD blend resin that offered the blister
resistance of VE resin, but with the tensile elongation or 2.4 which is
comparable to a good GP. The added DCPD allowed the resin to be promoted at
the manufacturer rather than the shop floor. It was a very good resin, but
not one which would have been ideal for an aramid laminate.

Hydrex 100 is a full VE resin with tensile elongation of 3.4%. Many VE
resins have an unstable gel time and need to be promoted at the shop to
insure that it does not drift out of range. Reichhold improved the
stability of the resin so that they could still promote at the manufacturer
and get stable gel times and cure rates. They now offer lower styrene
versions as well.

There is some description of the layup on the 34+ here as well:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/reviews/review34-36.htm

I hope this helps.

Jean-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I looked at those as well.  They did not have the Strobe at the time, to
get the strobe you had to go DIY.  It has nice features.  The main
difference in price is the certification and the machined aluminum case.
The MarineBeam and most of the units in that price range "meet or exceed"
the certification guidelines but are not actually certified.  As I
understood it the certification process was expensive and they pass the
cost to you.

Some folks said online that if your masthead unit is not certified you may
run into insurance issues if you ever made a claim.  I'm not sure if that's
actually substantiated. The machined aluminum case will definitely be more
impervious to the elements.  Since my mast stay up for extended periods I
figured that in the big scheme of things it's worth the extra 200 bucks.

One could make the argument that the plastic units cost 1/3 therefore they
only have to last 1/3 long to break even and you keep your money all
along.  That's a fair argument.  I went for the "less likely to have to
climb the mast" side of things.  I don't have the mast climbing equipment
and paying a guy to do it for me is about 80-100 bucks round trip as I
found out last year.

Tomatoes / Tomahtoes   :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 7:36 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all
> the light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor
> Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires.
> https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-
> light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
> I tested the light and it is very very bright and works just like they
> claim and the strobe flashes S-O-S. Lots of features for $109 and it seems
> very well made. We'll see how it holds up.
>
> Replaced the VHF antenna wire too.
>
> On May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>
> Matt
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
> housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
> and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
> https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-
> anchor-2-wire/)
>
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely
> sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the
> lens is nice and thick.
>
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
> and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
> no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
> light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
> pilots.
>
> Good luck with the project.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I understand.

Another thing I forgot to mention is the built-in Windex light.  If you
sail at night it's really nice to have.

Decisions, Decisions...

I hope it works out to your liking!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM, Matthew Schlanger 
wrote:

> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>
> Matt
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
> housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
> and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
> https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-
> anchor-2-wire/)
>
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely
> sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the
> lens is nice and thick.
>
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
> and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
> no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
> light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
> pilots.
>
> Good luck with the project.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,

When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
)

They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed,
the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is
nice and thick.

It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
pilots.

Good luck with the project.

Best Regards,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Mast sensor upgrade experience requested

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi James,

I have a 34/36 and I did replace the sensor twice.. Once with the mast off
and once "in-situ"/

My mast did have a conduit and I used the old wire as a messenger line as
mentioned before.  Really straightforward / no issues.

The harder part is that I had to fabricate a custom aluminum bracket to
accommodate the new sensor and mount it solidly.  I was glad I had the mast
off as it took a lot of measuring / fitting / trimming to make sure that
the bracket was as long / wide as possible to spread the load / fit in the
mounting holes  / not interfere with the halyards and sheaves / VHF antenna
mount / tricolor.

Also, while the mast was off I did a fair amount of cleanup  / refreshed
the spreader boots / replaced deck light bulbs / etc.

Long story short it was 80 bucks more than well spent to take the mast down
/ get it all done right  / clean, lube, easily service everything I could
while it was down.

The 2nd time I replaced it (It appeared to have been nailed by lightning
surge).  That was "in-situ" but then all the hard stuff was already done it
was plug and play.

My 2 cents.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




34-36R with a pretty skinny tall mast?anybody have any experience upgrading
the wind sensor and VHF while the mast is in-place?  I need to know if
there?s a conduit running and what to expect as I may be the person scaling
the mast and I want to make the least number of trips to the top?

And?if somebody?s done this, what where the learning moments?

Thanks.

James. Bibb

SV Darwin?s Folly
C 34-36R
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

I have a Martec folder on my boat (34+ also called 34/36) which is your
boat's little sister.

We've been using it for 3 seasons and it's world of difference in sailing
speed compared to a fixed 3 blades.  It's measurably better in all
conditions.

What you need to get it going:

- Martec is a phone call away and they are helpful the founder / inventor's
son is probably going to be the guy you talk to.  He's pretty
knowledgeable.

- When I did it a couple years back, sending the blade axis to get reamed /
new pin / new Monel cotter pin was $80.00 plus shipping.  A steal.

- The Monel cotter pin is an absolute must.  I would not trust what came
with the boat, order one.  Most people don't know the difference and think
that Stainless can't corrode. It can and does under water, especially when
in constant contact with dissimilar metals like a bronze prop. The
stainless steal pin will fail overtime causing the whole thing to fall
apart.  No such issues with Monel.

- Don't let him try and talk you into "upgrading" the blades to more
pitch.  We did / had tons of vibrations / ended up using the old blades
which work much better

How it performs

- Forward top speed under power is the same as the 3 bladed prop

- If it's in good shape / with the right blades it doesn't vibrate that much

- Reverse is weak and takes patience to get the prop to reverse direction /
re deploy both blades correctly.  Not much of an emergency brake

- You have to go in the engine compartment and look at the shaft position
to make sure the prop is folded with blades horizontal for max speed when
racing. If they are vertical the lower one will hang down / drag.  There
should be a mark on the shaft.  I found that if I stop the engine with the
transmission in gear, the prop is almost always lined-up properly

- The prop is known to be the least drag prop when folded for sailing

- Some say that they become loose quickly / need frequent rebuilds.  I have
used it 3 years (we sail all year long in GA too)  / check it whenever we
go swimming / so far it's still slop free.

For us on the lake, it works fine. We don't motor very long distances I
typically burn about 20-30 gallons of fuel per year.  For us, it's more
about top speed sailing  / we race a fair amount  / it fits the bill / it's
inexpensive.

Best of luck / email me if you need more details.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


Subject: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

Hello all,

I have a fixed, 3 bladed prop on Astralis currently, and suspect that its
slowing us down here in Florida where we just don't get the wind like we
did on Lake Michigan, so we rarely see much over 12 kts or so.  I'm
thinking I'd like to get a little more speed out of her, and one area of
improvement could be the fixed prop.

In the pile of old parts that the prior owner left us, I found an old, and
obviously used Martec Eliptec RH18DX12P-3, two blade folding prop (it is
not geared).  I have the blades and hub, but at the moment cannot find the
center pin.  It seems like Martec may still be in the business of repairing
these props.

I've read some of the various reviews, and I understand there are better
solutions out there, but clearly I'd be dropping a few boat bucks to pull
it off.

Do any of you have direct experience with the Martec Eliptec, and can
advise me whether I'll hate this thing from a performance or vibration
point of view if I get a pin and put it on the boat?

I am OK with somewhat limited reverse, but would be anxious if I was giving
up a lot of forward power.  And, I really don't want a lot of vibration,
especially if it's going to do things like tear up the cutlass bearing.

Thanks for your insights!

Bruce C. Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
847.404.5092
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Toe Rail Water Drain

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I have seen little "spouts" you can buy to keep the water away from the
hull.

Here's the easiest way to keep the black streaks at bay: Keep your deck
clean.  Especially on the 1st couple inches near the toe rail where the
crud accumulates.

Doing that regularly has reduced my black streaks to almost nothing. it
takes 20 minutes to clean the light residue once or twice a month using the
Star Brite black streak cleaner.


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Sail Changeover for 29 Mk1

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Jim,

Sounds like a great plan.  I'm looking forward to hearing your comments
about the new sail.

Have fun with the projects!

-Francois
1990 34+  "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

On Wed, Feb 7, 2018 at 6:34 PM, Jim Giffing <jgiff...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the comments all!!!
>
> At minimum I am sure to have my wife crew with me - she is a willing and
> experienced crew. Sadly both my boys are living in Michigan now so neither
> of them nor their sig others are around anymore.  But I hope to scrounge up
> a few friends when needed.
>
> I worked it out with the sailmaker. He was trying to decide whether to
> build a light Genoa or a flatter medium light that I could carry a little
> longer. I opted for the latter. I don’t need to go thru a panic sail change
> if the wind suddenly pipes up just because of the fear of damaging the sail.
>
> So now the deposit has been mailed and the waiting begins. Getting excited
> to have a new sail.
>
> Still have to get the cutlass bearing dealt with and few other spring
> “projects” completed and back in the water! Yippee! Spring is around the
> corner.
>
> Thanks
> Jim
> S/V Strong Tower
> 1977 C Mk1
> North East Md
>
> Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 7, 2018 at 5:58 PM -0500, "Chuck S" <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> Francois,
>>
>> Thanks for a very thorough response.  I learn from your observations,
>> always.   We need to get together for a double handed race n the Chesapeake.
>>
>>
>> Jim,
>>
>> younger crew are harder and harder to find.  My all-time best crew of
>> 2012 went to college and graduated and one is a sales rep for Doyle Sails
>> in Florida, another works in NYC in IT, and another is an officer with NOAA
>> stationed in Hawaii.   My own son is doing IT in a startup in Las Vegas.
>>
>>
>> I live and work in NJ and I'm 63 and race solo on a C 34R out of
>> Magothy River without crew, no arguments, no worries, I love the
>> experiences without any negatives.  I haven't won anything but I'm having
>> fun doing the distance races to Baltimore or Annapolis out and back.
>>
>>
>> You should consider sailing solo or even two handed.  Join CHESSS at
>> www.chbaysss.org
>>
>>
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>>
>> On February 7, 2018 at 5:00 PM Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I sail a 34+, not a 29 but here's what I was told by my sail maker who
>> was the guy beat in the phrf cruiser class for many years on the lake.
>>
>> For what it's worth:
>>
>> For racing in light wind conditions (10 and under) , especially beer can
>> racing the 150 - 155 gennies are gold, you get great power accelerating the
>> boat away from the cans.
>>
>> That has certainly been our experience.  Our 150 was literally a game
>> changer on Wednesday nights, worth far more than the phrf adjustment.  The
>> added straight line talent more than offsets the reduced pointing and added
>> time for tacks.
>>
>> Easy way to see when to change / or pick another sail to start with? If
>> you see white caps ->  use the 135.
>>
>>
>> If not racing  / just cruising around we use the 135 unless it's really
>> light like 5-6 knots or less.  We use it because we have it..  If I was not
>> racing I could definitely get by on the 135 only.
>>
>> my 2 cents.
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Sail Changeover for 29 Mk1

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I sail a 34+, not a 29 but here's what I was told by my sail maker who was
the guy beat in the phrf cruiser class for many years on the lake.

For what it's worth:

For racing in light wind conditions (10 and under) , especially beer can
racing the 150 - 155 gennies are gold, you get great power accelerating the
boat away from the cans.

That has certainly been our experience.  Our 150 was literally a game
changer on Wednesday nights, worth far more than the phrf adjustment.  The
added straight line talent more than offsets the reduced pointing and added
time for tacks.

Easy way to see when to change / or pick another sail to start with? If you
see white caps ->  use the 135.


If not racing  / just cruising around we use the 135 unless it's really
light like 5-6 knots or less.  We use it because we have it..  If I was not
racing I could definitely get by on the 135 only.

my 2 cents.

Best regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Ouch! 1000 Bucks is steep. The Kubota alternative sounds a lot better.

I'm not much of a believer in the bigger wire. If it was big enough when
designed 30 + years ago, it's still big enough. Perhaps a bigger wire would
bandaid the symptom for a while.

It can be any number of things:

-The switch, on a Yanmar there's no relay (bad) so the brunt of the current
goes through the post button thingie. I replaced mine last year when it
started doing it occasionally. It's seemed to put a bandaid on it for a
while. Not sure how it's done on a Universal

-The connections to the starter or switch. Mine were clean and tight. (And
new on the switch side)

- The solenoid
- The brushes
- The winding

For me it started doing it very infrequently last year and got
progressively worse this year.

What sealed the deal for me was the prior weekend. It usually took 2 pushes
when cold at the beginning of the weekend then got better. On that weekend
it started right up when cold and took 3 pushes (one more than usual) after
sailing for a few hours.

At that point I knew that

 1)  A no go situation was probably pretty close around the corner
2) The completely random nature of the failure meant that the winding was
more than likely the culprit as where it happens to stop on the commutator
determines your faith.

I also knew that at most I would pay 265 bucks for an equivalent Hitachi
unit on eBay so there was no use in fooling with brushes or solenoids on a
27 year old starter, the bearings / winding could not be much further
behind if the problem was the solenoid or brushes..

And yes, now it starts right up at the smallest tickle of the start button.

I hope this helps..

Good luck,

François



On Sep 11, 2017 9:53 PM, "Dan Grant" <d...@runbox.com> wrote:

I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get
it going it always works but I fear someday it won't
I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations
you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000
I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100
Very confusing
I looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the
starter
Maybe that's the problem?
I'd like to know myself

Dan
1970 Cv hull 148
Ipswich

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take
Five this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44
+ shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even
beat eBay and the shipping is super fast.

That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my
3gm30F's serial number.

Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the
Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty.

The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It would
sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going.

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take
Five this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44
+ shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, they even
beat eBay and the shipping is super fast.

That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my
3gm30F's serial number.

Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the
Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty.

The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It would
sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going.

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I just replaced mine about 5 months ago.  I luckily ran into an NOS one for
half price at the marina swap meet about 2 years ago. I finally put it in
this year when we re-did my fuel system.

Mine had not actually failed, it was just a bit leaky, weeping some when
underway.  I figured it couldn't hurt to replace it since I could get one
for 50% off.  I'm glad I did!

BTW, I never leave the boat without closing all seacocks..  One failed hose
(Or strainer..) and it's bye bye baby. I read in the Boat US mag that along
with electrical fires it's the most frequent culprit for total boat
losses.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA




On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 9:24 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled
> 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and
> saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was
> reaching the top of it.
>
> I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was
> below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
>
> One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.
> Luckily we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive
> corrosion on the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been
> detected.  Time to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi,

You should take a look at the lines and check for cracks in the Racor
housing..  My engine developed loss of power / stalling issues last year
and it was related to an air leak, once we started looking at the fuel
system in details we found issues everywhere.

I'm not kidding. My lift pump was tired, the fuel hoses had small cracks,
there was a problem with the one-way valve at the tank (Not needed, I just
removed that), and even my Racor housing was cracked so I replaced
everything: the lines, the Racor and housing/mounting, the lift pump, the
one way valve was removed, all is fresh from the tank to the block and the
engine runs fine  / the cold starts are much quicker.

Good luck with it.

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Loved it.  This guy makes me look like a saint. I showed it to my whole
crew errr I mean family :-)

-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Sorry, the other comment was sent out prematurely when I accidentally hit a
shortcut key.

Anyway..

Our stipulations:

Except for a few exceptions: Your start and finish time are on the honor
system as the commodore / RC are racing too (My best sailing buddy and
nemesis :-) )

$5.00 entry fee to cover the after race beer and brats party

2 Classes:
- Performance Sport boats: Pretty much anything that will plane out and
keel boats flying spinnakers
- Racer cruisers: The rest (No spin)

If for any reason you want to be in the performance class and do not fly a
spin you add 30 to your phrf. (The racer cruisers usually add it to insure
a close finish between all) After many years of experiments that is as
close to parity as we have found. (Still not quite there in light
conditions but what the heck.. )

Depending on the wind conditions we also have a short finish marker and
motor time. Typically, the leading boat has to make the half way point
marker in less than 2 hours for motor / abandon and about 1 hour for short
finish to a given marker.

We have a lot of fun and they are usually much less contentious than the
Wed night races. Most folks are pretty casual for those and a great is had
by all.

Have fun.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

We do 'em all the time.

We use the aforementioned spreadsheets to determine start times according
to course length and phrf.

We do add a few details:

-  We have 2 classes / fleets:
 Performance: Any boat flying a spinnaker and sport boats  / Racer
Cruisers (No Spin)
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 129, Issue 24

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I agree with Tom:


"The black smoke may indicate excessive carbon buildup.  If you don't have
three hours to run it is, next time you bring her in while the engine is
still running out it in neutral and run it up to 90% of max RPM for about 5
minutes.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera"

The combination of doing this, using Diesel Kleen Cetane+ Fuel additive,
and motoring with engine at 100% throttle for about 20-25 minutes several
times a month has turned my engine from a "Hard Starter" to one that
fires-up within about 2-3 seconds every time.


The skeptics can refer to both section 2-4-1 of the Yanmar service manual
and section 7-4 of the Yanmar Operation Manual as say the same thing:

Stoping procedure

1-a) Place the clutch handle in "Neutral" position and let the engine idle
for about 5 minutes.

Important note: If the engine is stopped suddenly while at high
temperature, the temperature of various parts will increase. This may
result in engine trouble

1-b) After five minutes idling place the speed control lever in the "Full"
position to raise RPMS to about 36000 to blow out any burnt gas in the
cylinder

1-c) set he engine to the lowest speed (850-900 rpm), cut the fuel, and
stop the engine.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List RC suggestion

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

In our club you get a 1 score, same as 1 st place, for doing RC..

It's usually reasonably well attended.

-François Rivard
34+ "Take Five'
Lake Lanier, GA
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!