Stus-List Re: C 40 Review

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Here you go: 
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/jz3oc8ws8t9y8ayekry6a/C-C-40-Used-Boat-Review-Practical-Sailor.pdf?rlkey=0ml5xrr6qjcovnsxo4941ao49=0

From: Languid Refiner via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 6, 2024 5:32 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Languid Refiner 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 40 Review

Can anyone attach a copy of the article in say, .pdf format?
Thanks,
Noah

On Fri, Apr 26, 2024 at 11:17 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Nice Review in Practical Sailor on the C 40

https://www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/cc-40-still-turning-heads?MailingID=1633=GB20240426-FixItAndSail=email_source=ActiveCampaign_medium=email_content=C%26C%2040%20Used%20Boat%20Review_campaign=GB20240426-FixItAndSail


Bill Coleman
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If this is the Graco filter with the transparent cup, and if you winterize your 
engine with the antifreeze, make sure that you drain the AF from this filter 
before winter. The cup has a tendency to craze with AF left in it. Guess how I 
know

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON





Sent from my Android-based can on a string

 Original message 
From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
Date: 2024-04-08 12:50 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

Glen,

I installed a Groco strainer, mounted it low on the forward bulkhead in the 
Lazarette under the starboard seat. Just screwed the mounting fixture to the 
bulkhead and ran hoses from the thru hull to the strainer and from the strainer 
to the raw water pump. I used two 90-deg bronze elbows on the outlet as it was 
facing outboard to avoid a loop in the hose.  It was tight but it works.  I've 
put in a freshwater heat exchanger so my raw water pump is on the forward end 
of the engine, but with the original raw water pump the hoses should flex 
enough to reach the pump.  Let me know offline if you want pictures.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The simple math shows that if you need 12.5 A at 120 V, you will need 125 A at 
12 V. This is assuming 100% efficiency of the inverter. I bet that they are 
around 80%, so add 20% to that number (1.2 x 125 A = 150 A). Run this for 12 h 
and you will use 150 A x 12 h = 1800 Ah. In order to accomplish that, you need 
a 3600 Ah battery bank (lead-acid), or around 2250 Ah if lithium.

In short, you will need a small power station to power it (a 2000 W generator 
will recharge that battery bank in more than 12 h).

These calculations did not include the Paukert effect or potential issues 
related to heat generated when discharging or charging the batteries.

The only good news I could think of is that you won't need 12.5 A all the time 
(a good chance is that after the initial run, the AC will be cycling on and 
off, and will run about half of the time). Which means that a smaller battery 
bank will be needed (2000 Ah (L-A)/1250 Ah (Li)).


There might be other considerations that might help reducing that size (e.g., 
AC that draws less current).

Hope it helps

Marek
Ottawa, ON

Sent from my Android-based can on a string




 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-10-18 20:18 (GMT+01:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-10-18 20:18 (GMT+01:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

Very helpful.

What is the proper math to determine battery bank size needed to run our AC 
unit for twelve hours?  I know a softstart would make it possible, and the 
rated amp draw is 12.5 amps at 120vac.   I'm considering getting a lithium 200 
ah and keeping a 100 ah AGM as a start battery.Solar panels are being 
considered also.



Thanks,
Chuck


On 10/18/2023 12:50 PM EDT Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:


If it helps, think of the inverter as a special kind of extension cord. It 
passes power from Point A to Point B. It does not create or store power. It 
needs to be bigger than the expected load put on it.
The batteries need to be up to the task, but they do not create any power, they 
store it. If you want to use a lot of power, you have to generate a lot of 
power somehow.
A huge battery bank, say big enough to run an air conditioner overnight, on a 
C with a stock charging system would work one night and then you would need 
to motor about 8-10 hours if you wanted to do it again.
Joe
Coquina

From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 12:06 PM
To: Richard Bush 
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Dreuge 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter

Richard,

My point is that one should not size an inverter relative a battery, but size 
it to ones expected needs.Folks often mix up or misuse terminology.If 
the maximum power consumed from an electric coffee pot is 1000 Watts.  Then one 
would need at least a 1kW inverter, but should get something larger to avoid 
maxing the operating limits.   Now the question is what battery can provide a 
constant 1000W for the 5 minutes to brew coffee.  Of course battery needs are 
greater than brewing coffee and an energy audit would give a better estimate, 
but for the sake of simplicity, let’s only consider coffee needs.

 For a 12V battery system (12.5V lead acid), the 1000W of power (P = voltage* 
current) is  provided by a battery current of 1000W/12.5V = 80A.  So one would 
need a battery that can provide 80A of current for 5 minutes.  A single 100A*hr 
lead acid type battery would be a poor choice as it would end up nearly 
depleted.   Relative to a 100 A*hr LiFePO4 battery, the LiFePO4 battery would 
brew about 10 times more coffee!




-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:55 AM, Richard Bush 
mailto:bushma...@aol.com>> wrote:

Paul, If I understand your point, it is that we shouldn't be relying on battery 
power for any appliances or coffee pots...etc.; is there any alternative that 
doesn't involve solar? thanks!

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584:
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255


On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 07:12:19 AM EDT, Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Chuck,

First off,  12V * 100 A*hr = 1200 W*hr.  But keep in mind that A*hr battery 
ratings for a 100 A*hr battery is tested typical at 5 amps(or 0.05C).  That is 
your 100 A*hr is 5A * 20hr. At this rate the battery is only providing 12.5V * 
5A = 63 Watts.At higher current loads, your effective battery capacity will 
be much much less  due to Peuket Effect losses.   In fact, a 100 A*hr rated 
lead-acid battery at 100 amp load would only provide about 20 A*hr of 
energy(and lots of 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: winter storage

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

But in Maryland, you don’t have real winter (). I think that any issues with 
tightening/loosening the shrouds starts making any difference when you have 
longer periods of low temperatures (-20 °C/ below 0 °F). So, this would only 
apply to Canada in-shore and Mid-West in the US. Along the coasts, even in 
Canada or Alaska, it does not get cold enough to worry about that issue.

Marek
Ottawa, ON
(already on the hard with the mast down)



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 6:45 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: winter storage

In Maryland most boats are hauled mast up if they get hauled at all and I have 
never heard of anyone doing anything to the rigging.
FYI
YMMV
Joe
Coquina

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:19 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: winter storage

Re mast up.  A friend stored his C 33-2 with mast up and it blew over in a 
winter storm.  He now has no mast.

With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the boat from 
blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast broken in three 
areas.  The boat was on a cradle.

Food for thought

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bob Mann mailto:sailrm...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List winter storage

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For those who 
store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do you 
loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann Mystic ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ 
‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April.  For those who 
store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud tension alone or do you 
loosen the shrouds for the winter?

Bob Mann
Mystic
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Not about coffee, but…

There are now available vacuum cleaners that run off 18 V (20 V?) used for 
power tools (you can get a Dyson version, but then the whole discussion about 
saving costs is out to lunch). If you have a power tool on board, a vacuum like 
that can save your house battery a bit. I happen to have all my power tools 
from Ryobi, so I got a Ryobi version. Works well enough that I use it 
occasionally at home, as well.

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 3:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

You can, you just have to think it through.
My wife can dry her hair, that draws about 50 amps for 5 minutes or so. I can’t 
run my cabin heater at 500 or 1000 watts off the battery, it would run the 
battery dead before the boat got very warm. Given most of our C were 
designed to be relatively light boats without huge battery banks, we are mostly 
a poor fit for trying to use high-draw AC house appliances running off of 
batteries. I use an AC vacuum and an AC coffee grinder, but I don’t try and use 
an electric coffee pot. Using the stove is far more efficient as far as turning 
fuel into hot water.
What is it you want to run on the boat?


Joe Della Barba
Coquina


From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush mailto:bushma...@aol.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter

Paul, If I understand your point, it is that we shouldn't be relying on battery 
power for any appliances or coffee pots...etc.; is there any alternative that 
doesn't involve solar? thanks!

Richard
1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584:
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220
(502) 584-7255


On Wednesday, October 18, 2023 at 07:12:19 AM EDT, Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Chuck,

First off,  12V * 100 A*hr = 1200 W*hr.  But keep in mind that A*hr battery 
ratings for a 100 A*hr battery is tested typical at 5 amps(or 0.05C).  That is 
your 100 A*hr is 5A * 20hr. At this rate the battery is only providing 12.5V * 
5A = 63 Watts.At higher current loads, your effective battery capacity will 
be much much less  due to Peuket Effect losses.   In fact, a 100 A*hr rated 
lead-acid battery at 100 amp load would only provide about 20 A*hr of 
energy(and lots of heat).  To add to the insult, lead acid based batteries like 
AGM should not be depleted below 50% capacity to limit damage, so reserving 1 
battery for start leaves only 50 A*hr for your house bank at loads of about 5 
amps.At a 20A load, the 100 A*hr (50 A*hr effective) only provides 60 A*hr 
(30 A*hr effective).  That’s about 30 A*hr / 20A = 1.5 hrs of use.

A 1000 W inverter could draw a max of 1000W / 12.5V = 80 Amps (but likely 
higher due to a voltage drop).  This would drain your battery in 6 - 10 minutes.

I gave a talk to some local Hams about Solar Off-Grid Systems.  I posted the 
slides on my blog (see link below).On slides 5 & 6, I discuss battery 
discharge capacity and bank sizes.


https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html


 On Johanna Rose, I have a 2000W inverter charger.  When I run my microwave, it 
draws about 100A from a 560 A*hr  LiFePO4 battery.   Like Dennis, I have my 
inverter connected to my panel powering all AC loads except for my A/C unit and 
water heater.   The inverter has a built in transfer switch which automatically 
(and smoothly) transfers to shore power when available.

-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Oct 17, 2023, at 7:27 PM,  via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

OK, an DC/AC Pure Sine Wave inverter looks attractive

I've heard some boats have 1000 watt, some 2000watt and some 3000 or more.
What size inverter is right for a boat equipped with two 100Ah AGM batteries?
One battery provides 12v x 100ah: 1200watts.  My system can provide 2400 watts 
but I usually reserve one battery to restart the engine and run on the other 
battery.  Does the inverter get fed from a bus common to both batteries, or to 
the selector switch marked, "Off, 1, both, 2"?

Thanks,
Chuck S


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There are, out there, 12 V TVs. They might be more expensive than the normal 
(120 V) ones, but not $1000 more expensive. Also, do you need a TV or just a 
screen (monitor)? They are even easier to get in 12 V version.

Marek

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 9:07 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Jackery solar system

I have a 300 watt and 1200 inverter hard-wired to the boat systems as well as 
solar.
I keep thinking there must be a better way to watch TV then spend $1800. If it 
were me, I would probably spend the money on improving the boat systems overall 
vs. a dedicated TV battery.
Joe
Coquina

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, October 16, 2023 1:45 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Jackery solar system

Looking for a way to power my TV and DVD and 120v sockets while at anchor.
I'm looking at getting a Jackery solar system for my boat.
I like the "2000 plus" cause it has a 30amp socket that accepts my shorepower 
cord and comes with two 200Watt folding solar panels.  $1800 but cheaper and 
less labor than installing a Lithium battery system with solar panels.

Anybody have experience with these devices?

Chuck Resolute 1989 C, Annapolis
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you open the winches in the water (and even on the hard), I suggest using a 
shoebox method. Pawls have strange affinity to water.

As Chuck said: “If done every two years they will last forever”.

Marek

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 7:52 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C

Servicing winches is very worthwhile.  Can't believe you race and don't service 
your winches at least annually.  A skipper must take steps to ensure the boat 
is properly prepared for the crew.  You will learn on the first one, and kick 
yourself after, because of how easy it is to do.  Take your time.  Clean the 
old grease using diesle fuel or mineral spirits, lightly oil the pawls, and 
lightly grease the gears with a brush.  If done every two years they will last 
forever.  Skipping for 12 years?  I don't know.

Chuck S
On 09/12/2023 7:20 PM EDT Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Mike and others who have provided valuable input,

This information on electric is very useful.  I wasn't intending to purchase 
electric in any case due to cost.

I went to boat this afternoon.  Ashamed to say I did not even know what size 
the existing winches are.  They are Lewmar/England 42ST, likely original to 
boat, therefore 42 years old.  From what I am hearing from everyone, a Lewmar 
42ST should be adequate for a C  But man, even in 12 knts wind it takes 
the full strength of two crew to get the last 2 feet in.  I was sensing that 
the winch handle was about to break.

After reading more this afternoon, I am sure the winches are way past due for 
servicing.  Lewmar recommends 2 to 3 times a season!  This may be part, if not 
all, of the problem.  I suspect the winches were disassembled and greased about 
10 to 12 years ago. Before that, who knows.

Is a set of 42 year old winches worth disassembling, cleaning, greasing, and 
reassembling?  Will this result in a significant improvement?  What parts of 
the winch typically need to be replaced and can those Lewmar parts be obtained 
for such an old winch?

Thanks again for all the very helpful advice on winch sizes.

Jeff Laman
1981 C Harmony
Ludington, MI



From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 2:43 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Electric Winches - Winch Size for C


Persistence came to us with Electric Lewmar 43ST winches for the primaries.  
There were no secondaries.  For cruising ease the primaries had been located 
where secondaries normally would be and the mounting locations for the original 
primaries were faired and painted over.  The second set of manual Lewmar 43ST 
winches were mounted on the cabin top for use as halyard winches.  THIS WAS WAY 
OVERKILL!



ST43 as halyard winches way larger than necessary.  Jib trimmers facing 
backward to trim genoa was awkward to say the least.  So we moved the cabin top 
Lewmar 43ST back to the original primary location and replaced cabin top 
halyard winches with Lewmar 30ST (Ocean series I believe)



This still left us with electric Lewmar 43 ST.  First of all an electric winch 
can be nasty.  An inexperienced trimmer can damage the headsail using one.  We 
always had the switches turned off and used as a manual winch.  Secondly these 
were AWFUL to maintain.  To service the winches the motor has to be dropped 
from beneath before the drums can come off to clean and lubricate the gears, 
pawls, etc …  Due to this and due to the lack of accessibility from beneath to 
do this these winches were rarely serviced and never properly.  When running 
the spinnaker on these secondaries they were stiff and made spin handling more 
problematic than it should be (due to the lack of east servicing).



In the end we traded these to someone with a pilothouse 44 foot boat for a set 
of new Lewmar 40 ST that are far superior for our purposes.  On top of the ease 
of servicing and better sizing for the boat removing the motors took away a LOT 
of unnecessary weight



Just a story I thought I would share



We are very happy with all of our Lewmar winches BTW



Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS



From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 3:23 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C



Some other thoughts: For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have 
BOGO days on winches during the year which could help reduce the wallet pain. 
Electric winches are more than a little $ more. Have heard / read good things 
about



Some other thoughts:



For whatever you decide, believe both WM and Defender have BOGO days on winches 
during the year which could help reduce 

Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I can easily relate to that.

I was stuck, headfirst, in the lazarette on friend’s Hunter 34. The lazarette 
was deep and there was a “point of no return”. If you passed it, there was no 
way to crawl your way back, but the lazarette was too tight to fall in and 
reverse. Fortunately, the owner was not that far away and eventually heard my 
yelps for help.

I keep saying that we need to teach some very little kids (2-3 yo) to do 
maintenance on our boats. They have the right size for that.

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2023 3:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!

I still have nightmares of getting stuck back under the cockpit.
I once got stuck upside down head first, under the cutting board, under a panel 
below that where I was working on the isotherm refrigeration unit. I was 
calling for help, but no one was around. After about an hour and half, I 
finally extricated myself.

Bill Coleman
Former C 39

On Sun, Jul 23, 2023 at 12:11 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am running the propane hose for my new stove down the starboard side of the 
boat, which is requiring me to crawl back to the stern under/beside the aft 
cockpit. My memory of working back there was I just crawled in and back out. 
Turns out to not be that easy, I had to take the engine control cables and 
bilge pump hoses off their fittings and I still can just barely sort of do it. 
When I was a teenager I fit just fine. Did the boat shrink? Can I expand it? 
Did I “opposite of shrink”?

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I meant "golf" ball



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message ----
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 14:31 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.

I will post how it goes….

Thanks,
Brian

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Here's one for $1

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck.

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….

TIA
Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

A hold ball with a string (and a shopvac) is also a good option

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 11:26 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Thank you all for the suggestions.  Using a coupler is a great idea, and have 
sourced one locally from HD, at an exorbitant price, $10.  None of the local 
Lowes, WM or marine stores had any in stock and this project will be attempted 
tomorrow, so no time for shipping.

Will try to run a string through the combined old and new hose, end to end as a 
backup / guide for this misadventure.  Another great idea.  Recall people using 
a cotton ball tied on the end of a string and a shop vac on the other end to 
pull it through; hopefully that works. Will tape the two hoses / coupler with 
duct tape [like 5200, not something I like on board] to hopefully secure it.  
There is no room for hose clamps.  The Mrs has been Shanghaied into helping, 
and will have handy what is called the “Profanisaurus” on another sailing list.

I will post how it goes….

Thanks,
Brian

From: Jonathan Tebbens via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2023 8:31 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jonathan Tebbens 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Diesel Fill Hose Replacement

Can you get at both ends? Send a messenger line inside, in case as Dennis 
notes, something goes wrong. Then you at least still have the route through 
everything.
Jon Tebbens
78 Mega
Katherine

On Sat, 17 Jun 2023, 08:23 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You're only going to get one shot if you tape it.  If the tape comes loose, 
you're cooked.

Get a barb coupling to attach old and new.  Here's one for $4.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-1-1-2-in-Dia-Coupling-Plastic-Coil-Fitting/50139874?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-50139874-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi1680hoQW5cUM-vsn1Qkn8Mh-5UhPWCTc9U6OJVbIBSCpY5ARYoquIxVxoCf18QAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Here's one for $1

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo-ABTC112/5012921827?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5012921827-_-local-_-0-_-0=CjwKCAjws7WkBhBFEiwAIi16800FEoXFeltqhJ37vlca3Tdpk9gCAWklW6mYWJsrMFeEuRip7Fqg_BoCEFsQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Jun 17, 2023 at 6:55 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I need to replace the diesel fill hose which is routed behind cabinetry and 
wanted to ask the list for some suggestions for pulling the new hose.  [I found 
diesel in the bilge and believe the 36+ yo fill hose is the culprit – if should 
be replaced anyway.]  From the tank, the hose passes through a ¾” (?) plywood 
with glass tabbing bulkhead next to the hull into a space which is inaccessible 
behind the ice box, makes a 90* turn up through a 1” plywood and Formica 
surface surrounding the icebox against the hull, then through another shelf to 
the fill fitting screwed into the deck.

The 1 ½” diameter wire reinforced fuel rated hose is very stiff, and the holes 
through which it must pass are quite tight.  Am guessing that holds the hose in 
place and minimizes chafe from vibrations.  There are no wire ties or similar 
securing the hose that I can see – cannot see behind the icebox with the old 
hose in place.

Any thoughts on how best to pull it through the bulkhead and bending it to go 
up through the shelving?  I have a heat gun and will soften the hose to 
hopefully make it somewhat more pliable, but guiding it through the 
inaccessible space to and through the first shelving is the big challenge.

Ideas so far:  taping the end of the new hose to the old and pulling it [am not 
confident that would be strong enough] or use 3 or 4 strings through small 
holes punched in the old hose as messengers [taped as well] to pull new hose.  
Would cut off a bit of hose where the holes would be punched in the new hose to 
have good material all around.

Any suggestions are appreciated.  Cannot use the boat as it is….

TIA
Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have the same (?) setup.

Morning Star has a MPPT version, as well. Mine is the old style (it is over 10 
yo).

I like the remote (wired) monitor. It also has temperature probe option, which 
might be useful for some.

One issue with my monitor is that one of the buttons stopped working (almost). 
Maybe a quality issue.

It is a 10 A controller, so it can be used with much larger panel. I have a 50 
W, which is more than sufficient for my needs.

Marek

1984 C270 Legato
Ottawa Ontario



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-17 13:57 (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Dual output solar controller

I put in a Morningstar Sunsaver Duo 
(https://www.morningstarcorp.com/products/sunsaver-duo/) paired with a 50W 
panel many years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.  Keeps my 2 
batteries topped up while the boat is at the mooring.  I got the one with the 
separate output meter, which has proved useful in debugging charging issues.  
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Jun 17, 2023, at 1:08 PM, Peter W. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I am looking for feedback on dual output controllers.

I want to add a battery bank to my existing setup, but I have a single 
controller now.  It’s a Renogy Rover 20A and has worked fine; however, they 
don’t offer a dual output controller currently.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Pete W.
Siren Song
‘90 C 30-2
Irvington, Va.

Sent from my iPad
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: checklists

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I use Color Note. It allows to create text notes and check lists (where you can 
check an item (e.g., as completed)). You can sort the list, so that all 
unchecked items are up front. You can also uncheck all items at once (to reuse 
the list). And as a bonus, you can send the list to another person (TXT, 
email...), So it can be recreated in the app on another phone.

It is very simple, and very old.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, Ontario



Sent from my Android-based can on a string




 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-07 11:29 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List checklists

 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-06-07 11:29 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List checklists

Does anyone else use checklists on their phone?  I find them great for building 
better sailing habits and eliminating drama.

I keep my boat 2.5 hrs away from home and I used to get halfway home before 
remembering I forgot to close a window or the thruhull for the air conditioner, 
or turn off a battery switch.  Embarrassed, I would have to call my friend at 
the dock to check it for me.

Last year, I found a free app for my phone that let's me make lists.  And I 
made a list called, "Before leaving boat" and it has about twenty five items on 
it so nothing is missed including stowing the flag and closing thruhulls and 
wiping down the fridge and leaving the lid open (to prevent mildew).  It helps 
build better habits and now I usually perform all the tasks from memory and 
just check them off afterward.  It's great to ensure everything is done and not 
have to worry about it on the drive home.  I also made a list, "Take to Boat" 
so I don't forget critical parts or tools needed for projects.  The phone is 
always with me, so the list is too, and the app is free and so easy to use.


Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis



Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: ABYC Propane standards

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It really varies. I had the survey for insurance done last year and the CO 
detector was not mentioned. I have one onboard, but it was not even mentioned 
in the survey (either as “required” or as “existing”). Go figure.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Don Marlin via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2023 3:29 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Don Marlin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: ABYC Propane standards

I just had an insurance survey in Ontario.
CO detector was "required".
Smoke detector was "recommended".
Propane detector was neither "required" or "recommended".

We had to add the CO detectors and we also added a smoke alarm.

This was all driven by Insurance requirements :-)


On Wed, May 31, 2023 at 1:23 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I'm swapping out my old CNG 2 burner stove for a propane unit. My question is 
do I need a fume detector for the new propane  system? I know I need a shutoff 
valve.

Thanks in advance
Doug
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Thanks for the ideas. This was very helpful

Thanks

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List v-belt tensioning tool

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hello,

A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive) tool 
that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt.

The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the 
alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third to 
tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the procedure 
to be completed single-handedly.

I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some 
similar outlet.

I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end, I 
used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I'd like to be able to do 
it on my own.

Could someone point me to this implement?

Thanks

Marek

1994 c270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sail costs

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Anywhere from $850 to $2500 for a cruising (inshore) Dacron furling 135% genoa 
for my Catalina 270 (summer 2022).

You have to shop around (get quotes) and insist on comparing oranges to oranges.

I had very good experience with a small sail loft round Buffalo and with an 
offshore company; both in the lower range of prices. Some larger companies 
offered to send a rep to the boat, but this added a substantial premium and did 
not seem to offer too much benefit.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2023 9:55 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Sail costs

Sail costs:  A new light air genoa was quoted at $5200 for my 36 footer, so I 
decided instead to have repairs made to my old sails.   They repaired my #2 for 
$700.  They will alter my #3 for a little more.  They are removing horizontal 
battens and installing vertical battens, and adding UV, so it can be furled.  
I've chosen to use Chesapeake Sailmakers because they are service oriented, 
came out and measured my rig before I spent any money, and they took time to 
evaluate my sails and offer options.

Wonder what others are paying for new sails and/or repairs.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on the "in-hull" transducer. It works like a charm. No speed, though.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa On



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-03-13 17:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location

Consider an "in hull"  transducer.  No hole needed.  Mount anyplace with solid 
hull.  I have 2 on my 1980 34.  Work fine.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2023 12:58:16 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: wolf...@erie.net 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location


I believe mine were located slightly to starboard due to easy access, not 
because there’s anything special about one side or the other.



Matt Wolford

C 42 Custom



From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2023 3:55 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location



Ditto on the Green. The further you get from centerline and keel, the more 
distorted your readings are likely to be.



Bill Coleman



On Mon, Mar 13, 2023 at 3:03 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The depth sounder on my 42 Custom is approximately where your green marker is, 
which is what I believe Bill referred to.  As Bill noted, mine is to starboard. 
 Contrary to what Bill said, mine is located just forward of the solid glass.  
When I replaced my speed and depth transducers several years ago, I used the 
same location.  Water from the balsa core literally ran down my arm when I 
removed the old transducers and pushed on the soaking wet balsa core.  We dried 
out the entire area and created solid epoxy “plugs” larger than the old holes 
for redrilling the new transducer holes.  This was not a difficult job, but 
then again I have a “stick boat.”



A 1982 C 25 didn’t come with speed and depth transducers?



From: Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2023 2:37 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Juliano Franz mailto:jufr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 25 depth sounder location



Hi all,
Sorry about ressurecting this topic. I only had time to go to the boat this 
past weekend. Bill, the boat is a C 25

Here is an "annotated" drawing from Sailboat data that I will use for my 
questions: 
https://imgur.com/a/3Ar35Pb

To me, there are three options (some easier than others) to cut the hull (2 
inches round) and add the transducer:

Red marker: At the moment, the original (I think?) depth sounder is located in 
the red marker *inside* the hull.

Yellow marker: There is a small access port to the fibreglass on the yellow 
marker that *could* fit the depth/speed transducer. It feels very high on the 
hull and a bit fragile as the fitting would stick out of the access port and be 
a bit exposed (second picture of the link)

Green marker: Last option, cut a square access *hatch* on the plastic liner 
wall (orange mark) that separates the "inside" of the boat from the fiberglass 
hull and then cut a hole on the green mark.

Any mindhive thoughts? I am very nervous about making a hole in the wrong place 
:)

Thanks!



On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 8:22 PM John Irvin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Agreed

Sent from my iPhone



On Feb 23, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Not sure which model you are referring to, but most often they are just ahead 
of the keel, but off to one side several inches, usually SB, I think .  There 
should be a section adjacent to the centerline where it is solid Glass before 
it goes up onto the balsa.



Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie PA



On Thu, Feb 23, 2023 at 5:50 PM Juliano Franz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Folks,

I bit the bullet in this year's boat show and bought a wind/depth combo from 
Garmin. New electronics since 1982 on Spice.



Im having a bit of a hard time finding where to place the transducer (airmar 
depth, speed, temp). Manual says ahead of the keel but access on the 25 Mk II 
seems limited.



Anyone around here has any tips?



Cheers

Please show your appreciation 

Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

In Ottawa, possibly because there are no local sail lofts, the cost was around 
$700 - $800 or higher. I got a new sail for just over $1000 ($850 USD).

Marek

From: Steve Mallett via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 1, 2023 9:23 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Steve Mallett 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

For my 32 jib, replacing the dacron UV strip was $550 plus tax CDN in 2022. At 
local North Sails rep.

Steve Mallett
Dartmouth, NS
C Second Lady

On Wed, Mar 1, 2023, 9:47 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Don,

You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling sail.

I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I couldn't find a 
solution that was cost effective. The costs of replacing the sun cover (and I 
wanted just a
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Don,

You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling sail.

I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I couldn't find a 
solution that was cost effective. The costs of replacing the sun cover (and I 
wanted just a Dacron sacrificial one; nothing fancy) was around 60%-80% of the 
cost of a new sail.

My boat is smaller (27'), so the sails are smaller and cheaper.

I ended up ordering a new furling sail. The original lasted 10 years. Actually, 
it is still fine, except the sun cover is UV damaged.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa On



Sent from my Android-based can on a string


 Original message 
From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
Date: 2023-02-28 17:31 (GMT-05:00)
To: Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
Cc: Don Kern 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

Glen,

My C 35 Mk2 carries for racing #1 (155% '22), #2 (137% '07), #2 reacher (129% 
'95), #3 (110% '19), and #4 (85% '18).  I usually push my sails for 20 yrs - 
(the older #1 '02 vintage still decent, but not good enuf for racing.  For 
cruising have a furling #2 (137% '98) which I just got back from North with a 
replaced sun cover (no foam), because the sun cover's original stitching had 
failed.  The old reacher is carried on board only for long distance racing on 
Buzzard's Bay, RI Sound and Long Island Sound.  The  #2 furling, and #4 were 
purchased as second-hand sails.  Most racing is done with the #1 and  #2, with 
the #3 and #4 used in "remind me that this is FUN!!" conditions.  It is my 
opinion that a furling sail does not hold its aerodynamic shape when you start 
rolling it in. When racing I put reefs in the main before I downsize the 
genoas. JMHO

Don Kern
C Mk2, Fireball
Bristol, RI

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Glen,

There are a few, reasonably local, reps for Doyle and North Sails. I think one 
is in Barrie, the other somewhere in GTA. So, if you prefer working with them 
and having the measurement taken by them, just send them a request (their 
websites work well).

However, be prepared that the “big guys” tend to be substantially more 
expensive.

I had a very good experience with a couple sail loft where I ordered sails 
online/by phone.

One is the Somerset Sails (https://somersetsails.com/). I ordered a full set 
(main and jib) in 2013. I talked at length to Martin, and he suggested a few 
changes to what I originally planned. The sails worked well. I still use the 
main, and just replaced the jib – the sacrificial UV cover started to wear out 
and the cost of replacing that was comparable to a new sail.

The other is the Far East sails. I have just replaced the jib (see above).

Both of them offer very competitive prices. I went with Far East this time, 
because Martin responded after a month’s delay (as it happened, he was away) 
and by that time I decided to use Far East.

The only issue with ordering like that is that you have to make your own 
measurements. This means that if you make mistakes, you are responsible. The 
short advice is to measure twice and be sure that you take the correct 
measurements (e.g., from-to the correct points on the boat). Don’t assume that 
the “standard measurements” are correct. This is very important regarding the 
jib measurements, as you need to consider the furler (how high above the deck 
the tack is, and how much below the mast top the top swivel is).

As much as I would like to see the sail loft’s rep on my boat, it is hardly an 
option here in Ottawa. So, the mail order is the only reasonable option.

Good luck with your search

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, January 5, 2023 9:28 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Glen Eddie 
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mk I Recommendations for Sailmaker

Hello everyone,

Time for Freya to get a new Mainsail and Headsail (135%-150% furling dacron).  
Any preferred sailmakers in the Greater Toronto Area?

Thanks

Glen Eddie​​
Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation
Tel: 416-777-5357
Fax: 1-888-812-2557
ged...@torkinmanes.com
VCard
Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer
151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
torkinmanes.com
An international member of Ally Law
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Solar switch?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Actually, the controller should be even bigger (400 W/12 V = 33.333 A). A 30 A 
controller will be marginal, at best. If you run it like that, it may generate 
excessive heat and may fail prematurely.

The voltage would depend on how the panels are connected. If all in parallel, 
then the voltage should not exceed 20-22 V.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2022 10:10 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Kevin Wright ; Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Solar switch?

sounds OK.  Note the rating on your Victron controller.  A 100v/ 30amp 
controller is likely needed for 4 panels.  they could generate over 80 volts.  
Your Victron has a switch for different battery types if you change system in 
the future.  Also be sure to fuse or use a breaker in the system between panels 
and battery.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: Kevin Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, December 9, 2022 7:44:47 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Kevin Wright mailto:kcwright...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Solar switch?


Hi All,

Starting to look at the project list for the spring and I have a question for 
the group.

I have 4 100 watt solar panels that are connected directly to a solar generator 
(Bluetti AC200P) that is wired to the AC panel. When I want to charge the house 
bank I flip the switch for the House bank/start bank charger. Obviously not the 
most efficient way to charge but works. I have a Victron solar charge 
controller that came with the panels that I would like to use. The question is, 
can I run the solar panels into a two way switch. One side going to the charge 
controller and the other going to the solar generator? That way I could charge 
the house bank till full then switch it over to the lithium.

Thanks everyone.



Kevin Wright

Landfall 43

Raven

Midland ON.
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Insurance on boat in abc islands or Grenada ?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on them. I am using them for about 15 years

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: John Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2022 7:05 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance on boat in abc islands or Grenada ?

Used them for 20+ years. They are sailors.

https://skippersplan.com


On Thu, Nov 24, 2022 at 5:02 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all, looking to purchase my next boat and am wondering if someone can 
recommend an insurer?   I am in Canada, the boat would be either on the hard or 
a mooring in a warm place
Thanks!

Dave 33-2 windstar

Sent from my iPhone
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
John Heaton
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Thanksgiving Temperatures

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It is unseasonably cold.

Today, we are at 11/29 (°F) or -11/-1 (°C). The boats are all on the hard, for 
a while, well covered from the snow (though we did not have even close to what 
they got along the shores of Lake Erie or Ontario (3-5 ft/ 100-150 cm of snow – 
that could probably sink a boat if not dealt with).

But we should not complain. The nice fall weather extended for at least two 
weeks longer than normal. Just a week ago I was still riding a bike in my 
shorts (high teens (°C)/ 60s (°F)).

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2022 11:21 AM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Thanksgiving Temperatures

Bur-r-r.  It was 21 degrees at my house in New Jersey this morning.  Sadly, I 
winterized my boat on Saturday.  Water temp at the boat near Annapolis, was 
still 49 degrees, but forecast to drop over the next week or so.  She will stay 
in the water this winter, with an automatic bubbler system.  I'm still hoping 
for a last sail some 65 degree day before taking the sails off.  It will cost 
me two gallons of pink stuff to rewinterize the engine, but well worth it.

Forecast temperatures for today, low to high:

Halifax, Nova Scotia: 24/34

Juneau, Alaska:  35/37

Erie, Pa: 26/43

Colorado: 27/46

Annapolis:  30/47

Atlantic City, NJ: 32/49

Seattle:  39/51

Atlanta: 36/56

San Francisco:  51/58

New Orleans:  43/59

Charleston:  43/63

Los Angeles: 60/73

Tampa:  56/76

Nassau: 80/81

Have a happy Thanksgiving,
Chuck Scheaffer, 1989 C 34R, Magothy River, Md
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you want to be self-sufficient, a hand drill is good to have

Marek

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 2:45 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

Basics:
Tapes- Silicone repair, electrical/rigging and duct.
For screwdrivers a Klein 11 in 1 and 4:1 stubby, #3 phillips and large flat 
blade
Channel locks, adjustable wrenches and box wrenches, SAE and metric, allen 
wrenches SAE nd metric
Crimpers Strippers
Battery powered multi tool and drill, dremel
Strap wrench
sockets, SAE and metric
and David's coat hanger!

Joel

On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 2:34 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Do  not forget the most important one...

Wire Coat Hanger

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 1:57 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Shawn Wright mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season, as 
many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior quality, or 
were badly corroded.

I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good 
multi tip driver), (3 each of standard, philips and roberston, plus roberston 
#0 for small trim screws). Complete wrench set both metric and SAE in a wrap. A 
wrap of custom made wrenches for the boat, made for hard to access bits on the 
engine, supplied by PO. Needle nose pliers, channel locks, side cutters, 
crescent wrenches. Several metal files, hacksaw with spare metal cutting 
blades. Set of allen keys. Small hammer. Tap and die set with common sizes 
(full set I leave at home).

In addition, I have a decent sized ratchet set in a case with 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" 
drive sockets both metric and SAE up to 22mm, along with torx and hex sockets.

I also have 3 plastic bins with electrical tools (meter, soldering iron, 
crimpers, etc), connectors and wire, although could probably cull down to one, 
but I always seem to have several minor electrical mods on the todo list. I 
would rate this category *very* highly, as it takes very little space, but can 
make the difference when something electrical goes wrong.

I also have a set of 18V tools (circular saw, recip saw, drill, hammer drill, 
flashlight) that I use for projects, but keep only the drill and light aboard 
when sailing. Good set of drill bits as well.

Spare parts for nearly everything: starter, alternator, engine belts, water 
pump, impellers, glow plugs, engine coolant premixed, zincs for engine and 
shaft, macerator pump, water pressure pump. Large assortment of SS fasteners, 
shackles, etc.

We have an electric dinghy motor which charges off solar, and the battery is 
capable of starting the main engine in the event of total battery failure. So 
far, I've only had to use it to jump start the car after leaving it for several 
months... :)

Depends on where you sail, but we are often out 4-6 weeks at a time in fairly 
remote areas, so being self-sufficient is important.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 10:34 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I 
could share with him.

I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier over 
time.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck S


--
Joel

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Practical Sailor wrote about it a few times (once, not that long ago).

A method I used to cull my toolbar content was to have two bags for a while. 
Put the tools you use (any time you use one) to the new bag. After a while take 
the old bag home. The chances are good that the new bag has all the tools you 
need.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-11-09 13:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I 
could share with him.

I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier over 
time.

Thanks in advance,
Chuck S

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you drill, use as low revs as you can.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 11:55 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

I would drill it out with a good quality Cobalt drill, probably 1/8" then a 
step up, decided by how well you have the pilot hole centered.
Use a good quality lubricant, something with chlorine, or what we use here for 
SS is Anchorlube G771

It looks like Practical Sailor agrees with you on the pins -

https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/offshore-log-in-use-report-atkins-hoyle-deck-hatches



Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

Stus-List Cracked spreader

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is probably common knowledge, but it helps repeating.

When you lay the mast down for winter, as a lot of us do here in the North, 
make sure that your spreaders hang "upside down", i.e., the open part that 
attaches to the mast points down.

Otherwise, water can accumulate in the spreaders and if it freezes, it can 
crack the ends.

Even here, in Ottawa, where regularly crack -30, many boat owners forget to 
take that precaution.

Btw. Water can accumulate (and freeze) in strange places. E.g. boarding 
ladders, pulpits, stantions, spreaders (we had all of those cracked after a 
winter on some boats in our Club).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: John Read via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-11-07 08:04 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement


  1.  Weld repair

2) Replace – Have found this scrap yard very helpful and large inventory at 
very reasonable  pricing  
https://www.massmarineparts.com/

  1.  Buy new – Klacko marine?  South Shore? – will be expensive

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 7:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld aluminum 
properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.
Bill Coleman

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi,
Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C?
I have a 1982 C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
leading edge.

Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J


I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.
In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates top 
and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes compromise 
further?
All advice much appreciated.

Thanks
Macdara
NYC
--
Macdara

Stus-List Re: Vang repair

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If the grip range is too low (or the thickness of the wall too big), the 
threaded hole will be deformed. This will make it impossible to screw the bolt. 
If you have problems driving the bolt in, drill the RivNut out and use one with 
a bigger grip range.

I found that the RivNuts that come by default with the tool, are not long 
enough.

You said that you ordered extra ones, which is a good sign.

Btw. I used them to attach a clutch to the mast for my jib halyard. It is 
working well for two seasons.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-10-31 22:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

Marek:

Once again, I appreciate your insight.  Today I ordered some 
RivNuts and a tool.  I was concerned about the tight tolerance of the grip 
range, so I did additional research.  I found aluminum RivNuts with a broader 
grip range, so I decided to order them.  In addition, it occurred to me that 
having aluminum on aluminum was probably better.  The replacement screws will 
be stainless, but I can coat them with Tef Gel or something.  Better to not 
have dissimilar metals working against each other at the RivNut interface.

I think this will be a good solution.  Thanks to you and the 
other listers who provided advice.  I’ll keep you posted.

Matt

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 9:34 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

Be very careful about the grip range. The RivNuts come in different sizes 
(guess how I know). Measure the thickness of the boom wall and get the right 
RivNuts.

When I needed them, I had to switch between imperial and metric to find the 
right size.

Good luck

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2022-10-31 12:53 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: wolf...@erie.net<mailto:wolf...@erie.net>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

Getting ready to pull the trigger on the RivNut idea.  The stainless RivNuts
I found have a grip range of 0.027"-0.125".  I was able to measure the
thickness of the aluminum I'm going through: 1/8" (maybe a micron or two
heavy), which is the top of the range.  For those familiar with these
things, should I look for RivNuts with a slightly longer grip range, or is a
.125 top end of the range meant for 1/8" applications?  Please advise (if
you know).  Thanks.

-Original Message-
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 12:08 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

>From what I know, the RivNuts are better for shear load (rather than for
pull).

Also, be careful how long the bolts you use. You don't want the bolts
sticking inside the boom (if you have any lines going there).

Just a few cents

Marek
1994 #122 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

Stus-List Re: Vang repair

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Be very careful about the grip range. The RivNuts come in different sizes 
(guess how I know). Measure the thickness of the boom wall and get the right 
RivNuts.

When I needed them, I had to switch between imperial and metric to find the 
right size.

Good luck

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-10-31 12:53 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

Getting ready to pull the trigger on the RivNut idea.  The stainless RivNuts
I found have a grip range of 0.027"-0.125".  I was able to measure the
thickness of the aluminum I'm going through: 1/8" (maybe a micron or two
heavy), which is the top of the range.  For those familiar with these
things, should I look for RivNuts with a slightly longer grip range, or is a
.125 top end of the range meant for 1/8" applications?  Please advise (if
you know).  Thanks.

-Original Message-
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 12:08 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

>From what I know, the RivNuts are better for shear load (rather than for
pull).

Also, be careful how long the bolts you use. You don't want the bolts
sticking inside the boom (if you have any lines going there).

Just a few cents

Marek
1994 #122 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

Stus-List Re: Vang repair

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

>From what I know, the RivNuts are better for shear load (rather than for pull).

Also, be careful how long the bolts you use. You don't want the bolts sticking 
inside the boom (if you have any lines going there).

Just a few cents

Marek
1994 #122 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON



-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 31, 2022 10:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Vang repair

For Option 3:
Could use a RivNut, which may increase the load bearing on the thin walled boom.
https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.boellhoff.com%2Fca-en%2Fproducts-and-services%2Fspecial-fasteners%2Fblind-rivet-nuts-rivnut.phpdata=05%7C01%7C%7C88ca27064e7f4b40805108dabb4e4202%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638028242028510337%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7Csdata=oZb5RJBhWFQnbLkE%2BaeaAmf4MMFL%2FjPxZErtZ3ChsL0%3Dreserved=0
These are commonly available at hardware stores.

You don't need the special tool, you can install them with 2 wrenches. I'm not 
sure what the load capabilities are on these.  I used them to install my Vang, 
but my bolts go in horizontally through the boom, so most of the load is on the 
boom material not pulling out the threadingand of course, I'm a lot smaller 
boat.

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C 30 - 549
   Armdale Y.C.

On 2022-10-31 10:48, Barry McKee via CnC-List wrote:
> Option 1 seems to be the best solution.  Boom material may not be thick 
> enough to support the helicoil solution.
>
> Good luck!!
>
> Barry McKee
> C 29 Mk I
>
>
>
>   My options are: 1) move the vang fitting and drill/tap new holes; 2) 
> drill/tap the existing holes with larger bolts (which may be too large to fit 
> in the vang fitting); or 3) install helicoil inserts in the existing holes 
> (which I've never used before).  Thoughts?
>
>   Matt
>   C 42 Custom

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would recommend a 3:1/6:1 arrangement with double line, something like this: 
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/aktbkuov19c4q9y/AACSrPhw1Xq758Tk8U7fae1ea?dl=0. All 
blocks are Garhauer. The special double block, double cam was around $75.

Mine is a 27 ft boat, so the forces are respectively smaller.

Originally, it was a 4:1, two-ended, with one end on the cam cleat and the 
other on the winch. Going upwind in any fresh breeze, there was no way I could 
trim by hand (at least, not easily). With the 6:1, I never had problems, even 
at strong winds.

The 3:1/6:1 arrangement eliminates the issue of having too much line for e.g., 
gybing.

NB. I don't think this would work well with a dodger. 

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON
Unfortunately, already on the hard (at +18 °C and 10 kt breeze)



-Original Message-
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, October 23, 2022 12:37 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 mainsheet and cam 
cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. The preventer has been 
on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, but looking at the 
mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious this IS a mainsheet so 
I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a light air test, I am loving 
the lack of friction compared to the stock system that goes up to the mast and 
back to a winch.
My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 mainsheet for a 
reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to preventer duty easily 
enough.

While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with a spring, 
had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast that it had a 
significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no idea how I haven't 
stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard installed it ages ago and 
I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the line feeds to a turning block 
almost at the pivot point, changes in tension will be almost nonexistant.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Charles,

This should give you a good start
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=5078.0

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-09-28 17:45 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

I would not think so.

But it is well documented in many places. One that comes to mind is Catalina 34 
website or sailboat owners forum.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-09-28 16:39 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

Would the "recommended fix" be in my engine service manual?
On 09/28/2022 4:22 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List  wrote:


I think you have a universal M4-30. There is a recommended fix for the trailer 
connectors in the wiring harness as well as sending current from the alternator 
all the way thru the ammeter before getting to the battery.

On Wed, Sep 28, 2022 at 3:19 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Noticed when my engine was off, that the temperature gage is indicating 160 
degrees.  It used to go to full left of the range but needle seems stuck or 
something else going on.

Also noticed a few times, that the Tach was erratic but the belt was not 
slipping which I heard meant a bad wiring harness connection.  I did move all 
those wires when I painted the interior and resupported the wire bundle.

Guess I have to take apart the harness plugs and lube with WD40?

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would not think so.

But it is well documented in many places. One that comes to mind is Catalina 34 
website or sailboat owners forum.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-09-28 16:39 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

Would the "recommended fix" be in my engine service manual?
On 09/28/2022 4:22 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List  wrote:


I think you have a universal M4-30. There is a recommended fix for the trailer 
connectors in the wiring harness as well as sending current from the alternator 
all the way thru the ammeter before getting to the battery.

On Wed, Sep 28, 2022 at 3:19 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Noticed when my engine was off, that the temperature gage is indicating 160 
degrees.  It used to go to full left of the range but needle seems stuck or 
something else going on.

Also noticed a few times, that the Tach was erratic but the belt was not 
slipping which I heard meant a bad wiring harness connection.  I did move all 
those wires when I painted the interior and resupported the wire bundle.

Guess I have to take apart the harness plugs and lube with WD40?

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Good to hear. It seems it was much worse further North (Cape Breton and NL).


From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 26, 2022 6:21 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

OK here for us in St. Margaret's Bay communities.  A mess of limbs and downed 
trees to clean up but people all good near by. Lost power for a few hours here 
and some nearby neighbours still no power.  Many people in NS still no 
electricity and some gas stations in Halifax ran out of fuel and lineups at Tim 
Hortons pretty long. I have a little Honda 2000i generator which allowed us to 
serve coffee and muffins to neighbours morning after the storm.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 10:32 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dwight,

How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones are ok.

Marek
Ottawa ON


Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: dwight veinot mailto:dwight...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the nuts on 
your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound used was the 
problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Leeward Rail mailto:leeward_r...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Fiona (was Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dwight,

How did you survive the visit from Fiona? I hope you and your close ones are ok.

Marek
Ottawa ON


Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-09-25 17:21 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: dwight veinot 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

I think if you had water ingress and sloved the issue by tightening the nuts on 
your keel bolts then getting good effect from the bedding compound used was the 
problem. Anybody know what bedding compound was used on build.

On Sun, Sep 25, 2022 at 3:32 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leeward Rail mailto:leeward_r...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull upwards 
slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to contact 
MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Just to add to it, a duck layed an egg in our cockpit (no nesting material at 
all) - we just found a fresh egg one day going for a sail. Thankfully, no 
cleanup was needed.

I guess you never know what you can find...

Marek
Ottawa, ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-09-16 14:22 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

I had a tougher time when the ospreys left and the cormorants moved in.  Yes, 
the osprey can turn your boat into a sushi bar garbage bin with fishbones and 
guts scattered everywhere, but the cormorants seem to be able to spray bird poo 
all over the boat even better than a commercial painting outfit.   I’ve 
invested heavily in bird mitigation equipment throughout my boat. Noisy whirly 
things fore and aft, spikes on the spreaders, and tripper lines across the 
cockpit.  Seems effective this summer but the boat’s still in the water.
One year when I put the boat in early, some swallows thought it would be fun to 
build a nest in the hollow opening of the end of the boom.  First time I 
tensioned the outhaul a huge clump of twigs and sticks shot out the end of the 
boom.  Fortunately, no bird eggs.
Who would have thought that sailing could be so intertwined with ornithology..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA

From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 11:52 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

Wait until an osprey couple moves in – they make an enormous mess very quickly!

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 11:37 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

Weeds, Alligators, woodpeckers - What's next?

Joel

On Fri, Sep 16, 2022 at 11:35 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
They drum to mark their territory, as well. I have seen (and heard) them 
drumming on the telephone poles (esp. the top metal cap) and on our 
eavestroughs.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 11:12 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Adrian C Humphreys mailto:adri...@telamontech.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

Woodpeckers will also drum when seeking a mate. I've seen one rap on an 
aluminum ladder, no bugs on it. Very loud.

Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2
adri...@telamontech.com<mailto:adri...@telamontech.com>




> On Sep 16, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Strange.  Heard repetitive tapping sound while on the boat this week.  The 
> source was a woodpecker attacking the furled genoa on a neighboring boat.  
> Must have been bugs in the sail.  Link to picture:
>
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1kc4okG4zrUi3Vh4GgUM4wJZAQE4fGFNt%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharingdata=05%7C01%7C%7C76499e53bae741ecf3e808da97f5f30f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637989379854903918%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7Csdata=7An28oCIHE7%2FL5LRjw%2FQmDfNwpsM2lJ2gUp2K35op94%3Dreserved=0<https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1kc4okG4zrUi3Vh4GgUM4wJZAQE4fGFNt%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharing=05%7C01%7C%7C989853953c694b815a9108da98106e76%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637989493587488856%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=zbNN1pEvtUMgW9zPoQqU08y%2FfocgzsUEvnD1MOTICAQ%3D=0>
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA


--
Joel

Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

They drum to mark their territory, as well. I have seen (and heard) them 
drumming on the telephone poles (esp. the top metal cap) and on our 
eavestroughs.

Marek
Ottawa, ON 

-Original Message-
From: Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2022 11:12 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Adrian C Humphreys 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Woodpecker attacks genoa

Woodpeckers will also drum when seeking a mate. I've seen one rap on an 
aluminum ladder, no bugs on it. Very loud.

Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C 33-2 
adri...@telamontech.com




> On Sep 16, 2022, at 10:06 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Strange.  Heard repetitive tapping sound while on the boat this week.  The 
> source was a woodpecker attacking the furled genoa on a neighboring boat.  
> Must have been bugs in the sail.  Link to picture:
> 
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1kc4okG4zrUi3Vh4GgUM4wJZAQE4fGFNt%2Fview%3Fusp%3Dsharingdata=05%7C01%7C%7C76499e53bae741ecf3e808da97f5f30f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637989379854903918%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7Csdata=7An28oCIHE7%2FL5LRjw%2FQmDfNwpsM2lJ2gUp2K35op94%3Dreserved=0
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Partially furling the genoa when racing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The sail and the furler should be fine (as someone already said, a furling 
genoa normally is designed to be partially furled).

The shape of the sail might be an issue. Try it furled a bit and check for the 
shape. If it is baggy in the middle, you know that it is not going to work 
well. Well designed sail should maintain, “generally”, its shape, even when 
partially furled.

I don’t race, but I use the partially furled genoa all the time.

One of the performance issues is that a furled sail on the leading edge fouls 
the air steaming along the sail. For normal sailing, it is not a big deal; for 
racing, it might be (e.g., you won’t be able to point as high).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: September 12, 2022 11:12
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Partially furling the genoa when racing

I was talking to the skipper of a J27 who nearly always wins our PHRF class and 
he was telling me that while he wins a lot, he struggles in heavier air.  He 
said he had recently started partially roller furling his large genoa for 
upwind legs and then unfurling downwind when the wind was strong enough to 
overpower him.  I have never considered doing that and my larger genoa does not 
have “reef points” .  What are the groups thoughts on the value/feasibility of 
this?   Any reason it would be bad for the sail?  It certainly would be easier 
than putting on my smaller sail when winds are questionable.  I worry about not 
only sail shape, but when partially furled, the furler and genoa sheet are 
fighting each other, which might not be a good thing for the furler.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D8C69E.EACAC7C0]

Stus-List Re: Water Heater?'s

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have very good results with the ISOTherm (ISOTemp SPA) (e.g.: 
https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/isotemp/ ). Very good quality and they 
are a bit smaller (because they are round, without the box around it). They 
also come with the temperature regulator.

But this is a different brand, so may not be a good option for you.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: nausetbeach--- via CnC-List
Sent: September 10, 2022 12:20
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: nausetbe...@optonline.net
Subject: Stus-List Water Heater?'s

My 4 yr old water heater started leaking as I was filling it for the first time 
this year.  It is a 6 gal. Seaward [Whale] unit and only connected to the 
engine coolant circuit [no A/C on board, just 12 V]

Planning to replace it with the same unit as that “should” be the easiest / 
quickest. Two questions for the group:

1] The heater comes in galvanized steel and white epoxy versions.  The latter 
is more $ but is it worth it from a corrosion or other standpoint?   It is not 
visible so aesthetics are not important.

2]  Found both units on Amazon for less than Defender and other distributors.  
Has anyone bought parts / equipment from Amazon Marine?  Usually Amazon 
delivers when they indicate, but I ordered some ink for a home printer and it 
still has not been delivered after 8 weeks.

Thanks,
Brian

Ps – Very sad news about Rob.  Amazing how a “simple” fall can cause a cascade 
of events.  Not much comfort, but at least it was tangentially boating related…

Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Some plastics turn into a soft goo after a while. Actually, cleaning with 
alcohol usually works better.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-07-15 14:39 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld

Did you handle Deet / mosquito repellent with radio.  It will soften some 
plastics.  Try cleaning it with acetone before you pitch it.

Get Outlook for 
Android

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2022 12:01:46 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Non- Gooey VHF handheld

I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld. It has 
gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place I leave 
it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to China. I 
wonder if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a decent 
quality that it won't go to hell in a hand basket in a few years? I'm kind of 
looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? I like the idea of being 
able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have gotten so accustomed to 
backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly.

Bill Coleman
Entrada Erie PA

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The Harken version is in the catalog on p 260, the middle example. What you use 
at the boom and is irrelevant, as long as you have enough blocks up there.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-07-15 16:16 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

Different boat, but my C270 had very similar arrangement (4:1, one end on the 
traveller, the other going to the mast and back to the winch).

I changed it to 3:1/6:1 double line arrangement. It requires a special double 
cam block on the traveller. Garhauer has one like that available. I think that 
Harken has a block like this, as well.

It works really well. When you use both ends, it works as a 3:1 - great for 
rough adjustments (it works really well for gybes). When you use a single line, 
it works as 6:1 giving you a way for fine tuning and the extra purchase in a 
blow.

I highly recommend this solution

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON

Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-07-15 11:13 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mainsheet

Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you 
operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that 
runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about looks 
like it could do the job.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Different boat, but my C270 had very similar arrangement (4:1, one end on the 
traveller, the other going to the mast and back to the winch).

I changed it to 3:1/6:1 double line arrangement. It requires a special double 
cam block on the traveller. Garhauer has one like that available. I think that 
Harken has a block like this, as well.

It works really well. When you use both ends, it works as a 3:1 - great for 
rough adjustments (it works really well for gybes). When you use a single line, 
it works as 6:1 giving you a way for fine tuning and the extra purchase in a 
blow.

I highly recommend this solution

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON

Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-07-15 11:13 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
Subject: Stus-List C 35 Mainsheet

Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you 
operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that 
runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch?
Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better?
My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about looks 
like it could do the job.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

When you open the winches for maintenance on the boat, a good idea is to use a 
shoe box with a hole made in the bottom. If anything shoots, it will end up in 
the box.

Btw. once you disassemble everything you can take the box off for better access 
(put it back before reassembly)

Just an idea.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2022 4:04 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

West Marine used to carry pawls and springs that fit Barient winches

On Wed, Jul 13, 2022 at 11:23 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 35 MK I?
Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots overboard can I 
still get more?
Thanks!
Joe

--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Is this an ABYC rule to hide all the important electrical connections in places 
that are completely inaccessible for a normal person?

It seems that way...

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Same here, only one boat, though.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2022 8:38 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

I have purchased my last two boats in the US and brought them to CANADA.  
Because of NAFTA north American built boats were exempt from duties.  However I 
was required to pay our provincial sales tax on the purchase.  I assume it is 
similar when going the other way.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don't think that it makes any difference if the boat was built in the US or 
Canada. No duties are due, regardless.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-23 15:46 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Thanks for the link to the Hull number lookup - exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not near the boat right now but I do have the aluminum plaque in  the 
cockpit that simply says "C"... not sure if "made in the usa" is below it... 
and inside the boat there IS a small wooden plaque over the v-berth door but I 
don't think it is a maker's plaque.

I'm still not able to pinpoint or prove where exactly my C was made 
although the history is pointing to Rhode Island as the boat was manufactured 
in August 1985 for the 1986 line. I'm selling it within the US and if I can 
prove it was made in Rhode Island it will be easier and less costly to the 
buyer.

Does anyone know this information or can any other C owners who know where 
their boat was made chime in?


On Thu, Jun 23, 2022 at 2:21 PM Motion Designs Limited via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Nothing in the HIN will identify where your boat was built.  ZCC and CCY where 
both used in each plant

Look for a builder’s plaque, which I suspect you haven’t found.

The other way is to find Hulls near yours to see where they were built

The project #84-1, 44 was originally built in Rhode Island as you noted in 85 
and “coming to Canada” in 86 after Rhode Island was shut down November 85

JKC

www.candcyachts.com
Motion Designs Limited
647 990 7752

Stus-List Re: Hull number serial number identification country of manufacture

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Look up HIN Decoder or HIN identification and you will find a number of sites 
that will interpret the numbers for you.

E.g., hindecoder.com.

Btw. I thought that the cncphotoalbum.com has one, as well, but i couldn't find 
it (quickly).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string




 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-23 12:41 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

 Original message 
From: Dan via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-23 12:41 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List Hull number serial number identification country of 
manufacture

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to interpret the hull serial number to figure out the 
country of manufacture for their C?
My boat is a 1986 C and the internet history says that after 1985 they were 
all made in the USA factory. Can anyone confirm this?

Dan

Stus-List Re: Varnish

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have never used this on teak, but I had very good results with other exotic 
woods with high levels of natural oil (e.g., blood wood). You may want to try 
High Performance satin varnish from General Finishes. It is water based, which 
is an extra plus.

It holds well for about 4 years (so far), without any signs of wear. Mind you, 
we don't walk on it (I used it on a mantle piece). However, a friend of mine 
who recommended this product, used it with success on the stairs.

Of course, ymwv, as I don't have a clue how this may work in a marine 
environment.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON





Sent from my Android-based can on a string




 Original message 
From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-20 09:24 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Varnish

 Original message 
From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-20 09:24 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Varnish

Thanks, Danny.  I have used Awlwood before with mixed results.  It worked great 
on my dorade boxes and has held up for years.  My cockpit coaming, not so much 
-- for some reason the primer did not adhere well.  I suspect it’s the natural 
oil in teak but do not know for sure.

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2022 6:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: Varnish

I've switched to awlwood.  It does not have the same yellowing tendency as 
varnish and it looks really great!   You can hot coat it after the primer is 
cured.  It is very expensive, however.

Danny

On Jun 18, 2022 2:09 PM, Matthew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers:



I know this topic has been covered before, so please forgive my 
ignorance.  Although I don’t ordinarily varnish my interior teak ply, I plan to 
do so around the companionway to protect against water.  I’ll likely use a 
satin finish.  What type/brand of varnish would you recommend?



Thanks in advance.



Matt

Stus-List Re: Reefing lines

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I find that it helps if you tie the reefing line to the boom a bit aft from 
where the reef cringle ends up. This way, the reefing line pulls the reefed 
clew towards the aft end of the boom.

Btw. It seems it is blowing everywhere (20 - 30 kt here).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-06-18 18:55 (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Reefing lines

We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig their 
reefing lines.  I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and reefing 
line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom.  When I want to reef, I have 
generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and around the boom and 
tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really difficult to pull the new 
clew down and back to flatten the sail in both directions.  It seems like it 
should work, but I am not sure if there is a better way.   How do others rig 
for reefing?  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I think that Kuuma are the closest as a direct replacement, but they don't last 
too long. Depending on how you use your boat, you may want to consider a water 
heater with a stainless tank. I installed an ISO-Temp heater (they are now part 
of the Webasto group). They come with the temperature regulating valve and they 
are supposed to be quite reliable. But the cost is usually a bit higher.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: John McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater.

Hello. While working on my packing nut I noticed that one of the hot water 
leads from the heat exchanger snapped off. The inlet fitting was completely 
corroded through. Same with the other exit side. Glad I am still on land!

It is a Force 10 and could even be original. Since they are welded on it is 
time to replace. I noticed that Force 10 no longer makes them and Kuuma is now 
the closest replacement? Looks identical. Anyone have one of these? Thanks.

John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Unusual C for sale

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t think it was built to be pretty. It looks sturdy and seaworthy. Like 
any other pilot boat.

Marek

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2022 3:25 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Unusual C for sale

No lack of windows.  Ugly, in a VW beetle sort of way.
Ron


On Wednesday, May 11, 2022, 09:50:16 AM CDT, Doug via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


How about this Captains launch?

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1982-c$c-admiral's-launch-7632142/

Stus-List Re: butyl tape supplier

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I used the Bed-it (from Maine Sail) and have some experience with the 
off-the-shelf, RV-store variety. The PO of my previous boat (C 24) used the 
store variety and it did not stick to anything (maybe your fingers) and had to 
be replaced. The Bed-It, is stickier and stays sticky and flexible even after 5 
years.

Of course, these are very anecdotal test results on an extremely limited 
sample, so YMWV.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2022 8:53 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: butyl tape supplier

And who would that be?  It is my understanding that Maine Sail had Bed-It tape 
specially formulated.  To my knowledge, he was the only source.

Lots of discussions on lots of forums.  All say one of two things 1) Bed It is 
really, absolutely better or 2) just buy any old crap from your local RV store, 
it's all the same.  Nobody, repeat, nobody offered any definitive proof that 
any other butyl tape was equivalent to, equal to or better than Bed-It.  Many 
posters swore Bed-It was indeed better.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: butyl tape supplier

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You can get it here: 
https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?page=search=Butyl+tape+

It is a bit silly to get it from a store north of the border (that tape would 
be well traveled), but at least it is there.

The original source is no longer there (he had a bad stroke).

Hope this works

Marek

Ottawa, ON

Sent from my Android-based can on a string




 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-04-24 17:54 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List butyl tape supplier

 Original message 
From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-04-24 17:54 (GMT-05:00)
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List butyl tape supplier

Anyone know where to order Bed-It butyl tape?  Everything I tried was deadend.  
Please share a working link.

Chuck S

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

John,

Many would suggest 3M 4200, but silicone has issues. I swear by butyl tape (it 
never hardens out completely and it is very flexible). The best source is Maine 
Sail (Compass Marine https://marinehowto.com/), though, I am not sure if he 
still sells this stuff (he had a bad hard attack last year).

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 4:28 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Chainplate Sealing.

Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I pulled 
both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod on 
starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is 
missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The 
covers are original and thin 1/16 aluminum. I am getting them beefed up to 1/8 
stainless.

Looks like the PO had only sealed them with clear silicone. So that will all be 
dug out. I am also inspecting the hull tabbing below with the chainplates etc 
to ensure that I do not have any issues there. What is the best sealant to use 
when installing the new cover plates? Thanks!

Regards,

John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: List problems

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Works fine

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2022 9:44 AM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List List problems

I guess I was wrong.  The problems started when I put the cutting board footer 
in the emails.

Now we have identified the problem -- it is not with the list but specifically 
with how some email programs and providers handle the emails.  What is 
disturbing is that one company decides what is best for you and all the other 
companies do not see a problem.

Now as an experiment, I am adding a link to the body of this message. Let's see 
how it goes through --

https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Cb06a118b02214cbe1f1608da01120aaa%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637823474237533633%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=b0QeCWIA%2BZwqsRRcKqCeaUwn3cs8xFS9wkx8IVaPW9A%3Dreserved=0

Stu
There are no links in this footer.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: List problems

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It seems that the problem has been cured
(and I had the problems with both Outlook and Android email)

Marek

-Original Message-
From: Donald Kern via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2022 11:14 AM
To: Stu via CnC-List 
Cc: Donald Kern 
Subject: Stus-List Re: List problems

Stu,

No problem, but I use Thunderbird and have not had problems with the CnC list

Don Kern

On 3/8/2022 9:43 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
> I guess I was wrong.  The problems started when I put the cutting 
> board footer in the emails.
>
> Now we have identified the problem -- it is not with the list but 
> specifically with how some email programs and providers handle the 
> emails.  What is disturbing is that one company decides what is best 
> for you and all the other companies do not see a problem.
>
> Now as an experiment, I am adding a link to the body of this message.
> Let's see how it goes through --
>
> https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.c
> ncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Cec486115a54b47
> 6ef63f08da011ebc0d%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637823
> 528760552919%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luM
> zIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=IhWjtVBWsvi1U93aSQ7
> fIQ6qMXoSGST5psUtudqgNGs%3Dreserved=0
>
> Stu
> There are no links in this footer.
There are no links in this footer.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am not so sure that this is an Outlook (Exchange) problem. I see it in 
Outlook, but also in Android Mail.

I speculate that some major update to one of the ecosystems (Android 12? 
Outlook? Some iOS update?) created a change in how HTML emails are handled 
(when they are send or when they are received). With enough of this list 
members being affected by this change, we all see it, eventually.

Interestingly, I don't see this issue in any other list, forum, etc.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List" 
Date: 2022-03-07 14:20 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
Subject: Stus-List Re: List The attachments are driving me nuts


Hi Stu

Try removing the Cutting Board footer at the end of each email.  I read 
somewhere that this may be related to the problem

It seems to be an Outlook problem / Exchange problem



-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List 
Sent: March 7, 2022 2:52 PM
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List List The attachments are driving me nuts


Folks I have tried and tried to find the problem.  The IT group that maintains 
our list program assure me it is not the problems. The program only relays what 
is sent to it and makes no changes.

I tried contacting several email servers whose customers were experiencing 
problems, and I might as well talk to the wind.

The problems are very sporadic and are not consistent by any means. I have 
several email accounts all with different providers and do not any problems.  
So I cannot relate to the problems.

I am still using Windows Live Mail from Windows Essentials (no longer
available) and Thunderbird Mail.  Both programs access all of my email accounts 
and neither has shown any problems.

I don't know what to suggest at this time except for you to experiment and try 
a different email app on your smartphone, laptop or desktop computers.

I keep trying to find the problem and the solution but right now things do not 
look good.

Stu

Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Ca508f372d77d471c0b1108da006f886a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637822776268614043%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=7PipX25CVx%2BBtN2yx4NmUZyG6QFuXuKypvu9qJ3GpFs%3Dreserved=0
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.cncphotoalbum.com%2Fcutting_boardsdata=04%7C01%7C%7Ca508f372d77d471c0b1108da006f886a%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637822776268614043%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=7PipX25CVx%2BBtN2yx4NmUZyG6QFuXuKypvu9qJ3GpFs%3Dreserved=0
Customized C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: email test

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I still believe this is a email client issue, not the account issue.

Marek

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2022 9:53 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: email test

Stus-List Re: Stus test 1

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

And this came through fine, as well.

In short, all your test came through fine.

But my replies to all tests came in as attachments to empty emails.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Stu via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-05 15:08 (GMT-05:00)
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Stus test 1


This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain Text Only.


STU
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Stus test 2

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This came through fine, as well

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Stu via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-05 15:09 (GMT-05:00)
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Stus test 2


This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Rich Text (html) only.

Stu

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Stus test #3

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This came through fine.

Marek


Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Stu via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-05 15:11 (GMT-05:00)
To: C Email List 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Stus test #3


This is sent using Thunderbird Mail App in Plain and Rich (html)Text.


Stu
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I wonder what the answer is.

The last 7 messages came as a mix of straight text and attachments (almost half 
and half).

Marek

From: Kevin & Renee Hartig via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, February 3, 2022 9:43 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Rick Brass ; Kevin & Renee Hartig 

Subject: Stus-List Re: We have the answer to the email issue


There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: First Aid Kit (inland & coastal)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am far from being an expert in this area.

I think that various bandaids, adhesive tape etc. are the most important. What 
you listed make a lot of sense.

Practical Sailor run some evaluations for FAKs. Here is a link: 
https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/medical-kits-for-onboard-first-aid?amp=1.
 And another: 
https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/off-the-shelf-medical-kits?amp=1.
 And another: 
https://www.practical-sailor.com/safety-seamanship/medical-kits-for-coastal-cruising?amp=1.

All of these articles are a bit dated (2008 and 2001), but the needs should not 
have changed that much.

Btw. These reviews show that price is not a good indicator of quality.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Andy Frame via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-03 08:43 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andy Frame 
Subject: Stus-List First Aid Kit (inland & coastal)



An ad popped up on FB for a "boaters" first aid kit for a ridiculous
price of $200+. The wee orange Pelican box was probably half the cost,
but I digress.

Concerning inland and coastal sailing, it made me wonder what should be
in a marine FAK? From my limited experience, I'd say the items that it
should cover are (to start):

Fingers getting smashed/pinched (band-aids)
Rope burns
Cuts/scrapes
Headache/nausea
Dehydration
Exposure (heat related)
Sun protection (sunscreen)

Any thoughts?



--
s/v MaryMe
1975 C 24
Labelle, FL USA
Amateur Radio WD4RCC

Stus-List Re: Test One HTML

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It seems that it depends on the mail client.

If the message is sent as "Plain Text" it arrives as plain text. If it is sent 
as HTML, some mail clients unwrap it and present it as text; others show it as 
an HTML attachment.

It is quite possible that this has nothing to do with the server that the List 
is using but has to do with some change that was implemented in some of our 
mail clients lately.

Marek

From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 2:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Test One HTML

Stus-List Re: Test One Plain Text

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

But you have to set them

-Original Message-
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 2, 2022 2:25 PM
To: Paul Hood via CnC-List 
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Test One Plain Text


You can set the default to whatever you want.

Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This was the first one in a long while that came "normal".

Btw. I don't think it is a case of the email provider; rather, it might depend 
on the email client (?).

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-02 10:27 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dean McNeill 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Abnormal list things


Everything normal here… low volume of emails and most end up in my Junk mail, 
but I now know to check there often!

Dean McNeill
BarraWind
C 34
Halifax, NS

Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Is it just me or recently, some emails from this list started arriving with 
HTML attachments, instead of the straight text in the body of the message?

Marek
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
Date: 2022-02-01 17:32 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Randy Stafford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 121 in a pickle

Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I hope this is more joke than not. The drinkable alcohol is very poor 
protection against freezing and provides great environment for growing mold and 
bacteria. Possibly, if you use the pure spirit (at 94%, i.e., 190 proof) it 
would work (I know, 95% alcohol is still drinkable) as an antifreeze agent, but 
it will still provide good nutrition to whatever flora might be in the lines.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 7, 2022 2:39 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

A sailor here used cheap vodka for water lines.  Said he had no fears come 
spring about drinking from the lines.
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seasons' Greetings

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

All the best, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

May you find joy during the holidays and spend time with family and friends.

And fair winds and a foot of water under the keel

Marek Dziedzic
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mounting chart plotter at helm

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Bob,

I installed a Garmin chartplotter (probably smaller) and the Autopilot 
display/controls using RAM mounts and Scanstrut instrument pod. Most these pods 
install directly to the binnacle guard, but you can fiddle around a bit and 
mount it on a RAM mount with two swivel balls (round base with ball, double 
socket arm and the 1" rail U-mount).

Some pictures here: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n77i7g6khqqc73f/20190804_144218.jpg?dl=0 and 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c8538cz1ghvbxdn/20190726_212737.jpg?dl=0 

It was reasonably cost effective and it works well if you want to operate 
either from behind the wheel or from the side coaming or even from in-front of 
the wheel.

It worth the while to do some Internet shopping around, as the prices vary 
quite a bit.

Good luck

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON


-Original Message-
From: Bob Mann via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, December 2, 2021 8:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List mounting chart plotter at helm

I was going to put another instrument display at the helm of my 35 mk I, but 
realized a chartplotter was only a couple hundred more so went that route.  

Any suggestions on how to mount it to my Edson pedestal so I can rotate it 
sideways, for easy viewing from the coaming? I rarely steer from behind the 
wheel so I want to see it from the sides.  The pedestal is about the same 
height as the wheel (not my boat, but similar setup. I don't have the top 
tray): 
https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi44.servimg.com%2Fu%2Ff44%2F17%2F14%2F05%2F22%2F2012-110.jpgdata=04%7C01%7C%7Cbfc9ec5355cf43bf2a3708d9b5fb2e7f%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637740912688329476%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000sdata=PkMTJJWfnPjlpWNVSR2BewSDnICKEWk8UzScUKf58Ro%3Dreserved=0)

The chartplotter is the B Vulcan 9.

regards,
Bob Mann
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  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

An easy way to secure the furler to the mast (if you have a deck-steppedast) is 
to put a length of lumber (I use a 2x3 - it fits nicely), about 2-3 ft, into 
the bottom of the mast, and then strap the furler drum to that lumber. This 
prevents the furler foil from bending.

Your yard would likely know how, but you want to have someone at the bow to 
walk the furler outside of your railings (to protect the deck}.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-11-13 08:44 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Haul Out Question

Hello CnCers,

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses.

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
1979 C 34
Rekofa
Fells Point, MD

On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:


Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Wifi antenna at top of mast

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Re 2.

Almost regardless of what you use, such system has to be two-part: one 
connecting to the far away network and one providing a local connection for 
your devices.

This will be a bridge or a router (better).

Most likely, a single device comprising both radios and the "network stuff" 
(bridge or router) with an external antenna (at the top of the mast).

A word of caution: connecting to some far-away wireless networks is frought 
with problems (risks). You never know to whom you are connecting and either you 
steal from some poorly protected personal network, or you connect to a public 
Wi-Fi. Either way, you are an easy target. A robust network security solution 
on your end is highly recommended (if not a must).

Marek

Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: DJ via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-11-10 06:18 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DJ 
Subject: Stus-List Wifi antenna at top of mast

Hi all,
I think someone mentioned having an antenna at the top of the mast that helps 
pull in distant wifi signals.  Can anyone point me in the direction of a 
product that would help with picking up wifi while on the hook?

Is it a 2 part system?  One to receive the signal at the top of mast connecting 
to another,  in the boat, that transmits?

Danny
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 for Zephyr Works.

They are not cheap, but they are good.

I have them make the set of masthead sheaves and a few boom end one. Perfect 
fit.

Marek

1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Matthew via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-11-09 15:59 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Matthew 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

Zephyrwerks is an excellent source for custom-made sheaves if you cannot find 
something off the shelf that fits.  I had three masthead sheaves made since we 
lowered my mast about a month ago.  Ed (the owner) suggested replacing the worn 
pins as well, so he made a set (including welding the C plate on the end).  
The new sheaves and pins are already back on the mast and ready to go for next 
year.  Very professional; very prompt.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 2021 3:12 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

https://www.rigrite.com/

https://www.zephyrwerks.com/
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Nov 9, 2021 at 1:58 PM Rod Stright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I am looking for some 2” sheaves for the end of my boom (4).  I believe the old 
ones were Delrin or some sort of plastic and the sun took its tool.  I believe 
someone had a very good source for sheaves on the list.

Rod Stright
Halifax



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Freshwater pump and hose

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would consider a pump with variable rate - it won't start/stop frequently and 
does not need an accumulator. Jabsco and Sureflow both have a model.

Marek
1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-10-17 08:29 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Stus-List Freshwater pump and hose

Well the 40 year old OEM freshwater pump gave up the ghost.  Actually the 
pressure switch.  It still pumps fine but without the switch to shut it off it 
trips the breaker.
Pump is a PAR  / ITT JABSCO 36970-1000, 2.8 GPM.  Has been out of production 
for years.  Some internet search show a switch  37121-0010 is supposedly 
available on flea bay for about $60 plus shipping.  Supposedly OEM part that 
has been sitting on the shelf for years.  A brand new pump assembly is less 
than $150.  Given the age of the current pump, a new one seems to make sense.  
That gets us into the tubing which is Qest, is also OEM and there is a small 
leak that so far has eluded discovery.  The new pumps do not provide fitting 
compatible with Qest.

One of my options would be to replace the tubing especially with the new 
plastic tubing now available.  Any thoughts on which system works best?


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

A word of warning: the integral pump is very practical, but… they tend to leak, 
eventually. There is a maintenance kit available, but I did not have much 
success with stopping the leak and, eventually, I replaced the filter with the 
Racor SNAPP (23106-30 - Disposable Fuel Filter / Water Separator – SNAPP™ 
Series | Parker 
NA).
 It is a complete assembly that you replace, but it comes with “quick connect” 
adapters for the fuel lines.

It comes with a plastic bowl, so if you are concerned with fire resistance, it 
is not good. But I subscribe to Andrew’s theory that if the fire is about to 
melt the bowl, you have probably bigger problems to worry about.

I, too, buy it from the “industrial channels” - a local CAT dealer. If you 
motor a lot, the replaceable filters (like the 500) might be a better deal, but 
I put about 15 h on the engine a year, so the solution is pretty cost effective.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2021 8:39 PM
To: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Racer diesel filter assemblies

After wading through the various models and -to me at least- someway confusing 
product info, recently purchased a new Racor 215R30 as a primary filter for my 
Yanmar 2GM.  I have not installed it yet.  Check industrial channels for this 
as I purchased mine for about 2/3 the price of an identical unit through marine 
channels.  This unit is oversized for our little engines and though it seemed 
large at first it will install neatly in windstar.  (33-2). The model I chose 
has a glass bowl and integral priming pump.

Dave
Sent from my iPhone


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance (in Canada)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have decent experience with the Skipper's Plan (through Gallagher). Here is 
their website: Boat Insurance Quote | Skippers' Plan | Ontario Canada 
(skippersplan.com).

However, I have no clue how they would work for a boat much larger than what I 
have (27 ft). I like the option for "agreed value".

They changed their survey requirements lately, and now require a survey every 5 
years (it used to be 10). But there is also an option to insure without the 
survey, but then there are limitations. I dealt with Petra Fisher there (her 
email is on that web page (under Contact Us)).

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2021 5:35 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Insurance (in Canada)


Hi Doug

Secret plans was insured (in Nova Scotia) through Coast Underwriters, they are 
Vancouver based so presumably will cover Ontario.  They were great in paying 
out the claim, and I've got the green light from them for coverage on a 1979 
C 40 (assuming survey and mechanical go OK).  I'm with them through an 
insurance broker.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Bed-It Butyl Tape

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Here is another source: Butyl Tape - Marine Outfitters - Ontario 
Canada
 (they are in Kingston, ON, but they will ship to the US)

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: DJ via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 2, 2021 6:14 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: DJ 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bed-It Butyl Tape

So,  marine-how-to is run by just one man and he had a stroke a few weeks ago 
(I posted about it, here, at the time).  Last I heard he was alert but had a 
long recovery ahead of him.  There is no one to service the site or the store 
right now.  So, I believe they just disabled the whole thing.

It's going to take some searching to find the right stuff.

Please, let us all know if you're able to find a source.

Danny

On Oct 2, 2021 2:19 AM, Donald Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I went to the web site  that this forum 
recommended to purchase a roll of Bed-It tape and did not find that the tape 
was available.  Did Marine how to get out of the Butyl tape business?  Is there 
a recommended alternate ?


Don Kern
Fireball, C Mk2
Bristol, RI

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Same here (NSC in Ottawa). If you do it yourself, it cost you nothing; you just 
need a few friends to help. If you hire a local “service provider”, they will 
do it for about $100. I use them for the haul-out and unstepping in the fall, 
or for launching and stepping in the spring and the total cost is around 
$200-$300 (depending on the size of the boat). Our spar crane can handle most 
of the masts, though the Club limits the boat size to 36’ (so the masts are 
also limited in size). I think our spar crane can handle 500 kg max.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 1, 2021 2:53 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Mast in and out

We have a spar crane at our club that is no charge to members.  We get a group 
of owners together to do our own

If we pay someone it is under $500 each way for  boat such as the 35.  I 
suspect that you may need to hire a boom truck, etc as part of your mast down 
and put it back up

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax


From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: October 1, 2021 2:51 PM
To: 1 CnC List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Jim Watts mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Mast in and out

As part of a quote for potentially painting the topsides, we were given a cost 
for the local rigger to take the mast out and put it back in. I thought $1500 
was a little steep, but I haven't done this since we had our 29-2, so maybe 
prices have gone up by 10X in the interim. I'm curious as to what kind of costs 
folks are incurring on their mast work just to see if this is reasonable. I 
also recently got a quote for $4500 which then ballooned to $9000 and counting 
to replace our rod rigging with wire. Does this sound at all in the ballpark?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Guido Gone... :(

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is really sad (in more ways than one).

Marek

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 7:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Guido Gone... :(

Crapola...He was a good one!

At 03:56 PM 9/25/2021, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="92156BA17E23F5418F3730A2"
Content-Language: en-US

I believe Guido has passed on recently (Jan 2021, Covid-19) but hopefully his 
spirit lives on at Gauhauer Marine.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III

#11
On 2021-09-25 5:59 p.m., David Risch via CnC-List wrote:

I was gonna say what Nathan said...never mind.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2021 4:01:52 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

If you can't find a local shop, send the thing to Guido at Garhauer Marine.  He 
will duplicate it.  Does excellent work.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to

help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to

the list - use PayPal to send contribution --



https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks -

Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

 Thanks - Stu

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com

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Stus-List wind instrument

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hi,

I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The main 
reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the EV-100 
autopilot.

I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don't have a Raymarine MFC, though (I 
have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).

I am a minimalist (you could say "cheap"), so e.g., I don't have a Navpod on 
the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the chartplotter 
and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).

I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.

I have a few questions:

- Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My 
first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed to an 
analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But this is 
mainly to control the costs.

- With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed the 
wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don't think I need the detailed wind angle 
displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the wind display 
somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not required AND I 
could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine with that.

- Any strong recommendations against the wireless?

- Any other suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 33-II vs 35-II now race course design

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am with Dwight on that.

Any handicap system can be abused, mined, rigged, games etc.

If you are having fun doing it, you are already a winner.

I don't participate in sailboat racing lately, but I race intensively somewhere 
else (alpine skiing). The handicapping works only so well. But you can pick up 
a few participants with whom you are close, and you can compete with them. Or 
with yourself.

Marek





Sent from my Android-based can on a string


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List surveyor around Ottawa, ON

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hi,

I will need to have an insurance survey done before the next season. Would 
anyone have a recommendation for a surveyor in the Ottawa, ON area?

Thanks

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Good to hear that you are doing reasonably fine.

I am not surprised with the communications – text is using about 10% or less of 
capacity needed for voice; data (LTE) is a completely different cattle of fish.

To me, so far up north, it is hard to imagine the weather events that you have 
to live through.

Good luck

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2021 5:00 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Re: IDA - C check in

Update.  Dock neighbor says Touche' is fine.  The water is now 4-6 inches over 
the pier.  The highest was 4.5 feet over the pier.  Fortunately, there is no 
wave action in my marina.  Touche's slip is at  30°20'59.25"N  90° 3'14.41"W 
which is well off the lake.

Here at the house we're still without power with no indication of when 
restoration will occur.  Generator is keeping the beer cold and the ice frozen. 
 Life is good (well, kinda).

Make no mistake.  Ida was one nasty storm.  I feel for the folks in NOLA.  The 
loss of the major transmission line is going to delay power restoration for 
weeks.

I went to get materials to repair a broken window.  Few  traffic lights are 
working.  Those few gas stations that have gas have long, long lines.  Those 
few fast food places that have power have long lines.

I-10 westbound through Baton Rouge was absolutely packed with cars.  I suspect 
many folks that didn't evacuate the New Orleans area for the storm are now 
leaving because they won't have power for weeks.  Not sure if I'd like the idea 
of leaving my house in NOLA without power and a monitored security system.  Sad 
commentary but true.

Communication was nonexistent until yesterday afternoon when we got minimal 
text service.  Voice calling and internet cell service followed about 2-3 hours 
later.  It was this way for Katrina.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boric Acid Powder

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You mentioned that you don’t want to use the spider spray, but this one 
(Bug-Tek) is less toxic and does not hurt the environment that much. And it is 
pretty effective. I use it to spray the dock lines - if they cannot get through 
the lines, they have to swim to the boat or fly (I know some can fly on their 
webs). So, the numbers are substantially reduced.

For the mice problem, we use cloves. It does not kill anything, but apparently 
mice don’t like the smell. An added benefit is that the smell is quite nice for 
most humans. We buy about 0.5 kg each fall and distribute them around the boat 
(in small bags). When we had a cottage, we used another 1 kg for the cottage. 
It either works or it is a great coincidence that since we started using them, 
the mice went somewhere else.

Of course, YMMV

Marek


From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 30, 2021 10:48 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Boric Acid Powder

Has anyone ever tried Boric Acid for spiders?
We have gobs of them here on the lakes.

Practical Sailor just had some discussion on using this for Cockroaches, and I 
see now, silverfish and water bugs – but I see no mention of spiders.
I am trying to get away from spider spray, for obvious reasons, and this looks 
like a much more friendly alternative, but if it won’t work, well then . . . I 
guess back to the drawing board.

Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Thanks, Riley, for the information. This answered my question.

Thanks

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have that end covered. Proper fuses right at the battery terminals. And the 
solar panel is tied to the controller, not the batteries themselves. But there 
is some 25' of cable from the panel to the controller and I always wonder if 
that part should be protected as well. The solar panel is only 50 W, so it 
cannot produce too much current (and too much heat). But I wonder what it the 
proper way to connect it and protect it.

Marek

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2021 6:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

Really, should there be a short or other electrical failure, the big source of 
current that would heat up and burn up the wires and possibly set the boat on 
fire, would be the boat's house or starting battery bank.  So the fuse should 
be as close as possible to where the wires from the solar panels tie into 
larger wires or bus bars (or the batteries if wired direct to the battery 
bank).  As close as 6 inches if possible.

Ken H.

On Sun, 29 Aug 2021 at 19:19, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have a simple question - the fuse is there to protect the wire; so, the fuse 
should be as close to the solar panel as possible, shouldn't it? Where would 
you put it? Outside, next to the panel? Or inside, as soon as the wire goes 
through the deck?

I bet there are some rules of thumb.

Thanks

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I have a simple question - the fuse is there to protect the wire; so, the fuse 
should be as close to the solar panel as possible, shouldn't it? Where would 
you put it? Outside, next to the panel? Or inside, as soon as the wire goes 
through the deck?

I bet there are some rules of thumb.

Thanks

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-08-29 18:00 (GMT-05:00)
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

My Renogy MPPT controler calls for a 20A Fuse.  I have 2 100w semi flexible 
panels.  Output is often close to 18amps
Chuck Gilchrest
s/v Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA

From: cenelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2021 5:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: cenelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

I use a ~ 30 watt solar to keep my batteries topped off without using shore 
power even when it is available. It is wired directly to my start battery and 
my ACR keeps both batteries topped off.

My question is should I put a fuse in the positive output from the solar 
controller—IIRC it has a MPPT controller—to prevent a disaster in case a short 
develops anywhere in the panel/controller/hook-up/ etc.?

If so, about what size fuse?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom

My question is should


Sent from the all new AOL app for 
iOS

On Sunday, August 29, 2021, 4:39 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Does your bilge pump run that much in a week to drain your batteries. Must be a 
lot of water getting in

On Sun, Aug 29, 2021 at 4:35 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi all,

So, I took the solar panels and the Bimini in for the hurricane that was coming 
least week. And I had to keep them off for the week because I couldn't get back 
to the boat, and the batteries went down to 11.4 I guess running the bilge pump 
all week. I put the panels back up and I'm getting the voltage out of them but 
the victron is not charging the batteries.  Would this be an indication that 
the batteries charge has gotten too low and that the Charger won't start the 
charge?



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Stu via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 8/29/21 12:19 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: C Email List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Stu mailto:s...@snghost.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Don't forget the upcoming rendezvous

Good afternoon

Don’t forget our next online/virtual rendezvous on Tuesday,
Aug 31, 2021 07:00 PM Eastern Time (US and Canada).

You must register in advance for this meeting:
https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZUtdeGrpj0iGNCGFaM3Jukol37WHaa09Z9e

After registering, you will receive information about joining the meeting.

Hope to see you there.

Stay safe ‘n’ healthy
Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu
--
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

 Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. 

Stus-List Re: Bruce anchors again - and chain

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would say that, generally, you should have the biggest (the best holding) 
anchor you can afford (and this includes both your wallet and back capacity).

However, an option might be to use a much smaller anchor for your day-to-day 
use (a better “lunch hook”) and have the “good one” available for the 
conditions that require extra holding power. This way, you save your back on a 
daily basis, but still have the “good anchor” in your back pocket (lazarette?). 
Of course, this has a few drawbacks, as well – you need two anchors which adds 
weight and cost, you need to move around that anchors depending on the 
requirements and this might include the chain, and you may end up getting 
surprised by the changed conditions.

On a larger boat (i.e. large and heavy anchor) a windlass might be a better 
solution.

Just my two cents

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



From: Dave S via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, August 27, 2021 6:50 AM
To: C Stus List 
Cc: Dave S 
Subject: Stus-List Bruce anchors again - and chain

So, after the recent discussion on anchors I too grabbed 15kg genuine Bruce on 
Kijiji for use on my 33-2, which currently has 50' HT chain (3/8| I believe) 
and a 10kg bruce, a setup that has never failed me.  This anchor and chain 
weighs around 100lb. I bought the second Bruce as a backup for cruising as 
\i have none, and I have no windlass.
The 15kg bruce is of course 50% larger than the 10kg but it feels around 3X as 
awkward on the foredeck, though it does fil and just as well.  My sense though 
is that it, along with the 50' of chain, will be extremely secure once set but 
at or a bit beyond my comfort level for hand retrieval.
If I reduced the chain to 40' from 50, the anchor and chain would again weigh 
around 100lb.   Retrieval becomes progressively easier with progressively less 
chain.   So, with the weight constraint of hand retrieval, Anchor size vs chain 
quantity becomes  a tradeoff..  (clearly this makes a powerful case for super 
high holding power anchors)
For optimal holding power, how much or how little chain is optimal?   There are 
likely diminishing returns in this formula but where?
Thanks for any input or musings!

Dave Windstar, 33-2


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bottom paint gallons

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Pettit has a bottom paint calculator (here: Pettit | Quantity Calculator 
(pettitpaint.com)).

When you enter L=37 and beam=12 (I am guessing), they claim that you need 1.2 
gallon. But if you use the 450 sq ft/gallon, they claim you would be fine with 
0.8 gal.

Defender has its own: https://www.defender.com/html/bottom_paint_calc.html

Based on my own experience (I used 2 quarts on a 27 ft boat with 10 ft beam), 
the way they calculate is a bit tight. You might be able to make it under 1 gal 
for a single coat, but it will be tight. It might almost be a question how hot 
it is when you paint. A spare quart might be in order.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2021 6:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint gallons


Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2 gallons 
isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says theoretical 
coverage is 450 ft²/gallon.

The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.

2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I read the same thing. And at $150 for a #30 Bruce, it is a steal (half price?)

Marek
1994 C270 Legato

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 23, 2021 1:45 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Re: any Bruce anchor users?

I have no firsthand experience, but I have read several places that the 
knock-offs are not as good as the real Bruce.  Apparently tiny differences in 
the shape have big effects.

Joe
Coquina
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Universal M4-30 exhaust system

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

For that, there is a very easy check - if the engine turns over, no water in 
cylinders.
Marek

From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2021 11:20 AM
To: dwight veinot via CnC-List 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Universal M4-30 exhaust system

Dwight:

A friend has a Universal in his boat, and he had the same exhaust leak problem. 
 What he didn't realize was that the water also leaked backed in to the 
cylinders, and froze up his engine.  You might want to look at that, apparently 
it's a common occurrence with a leaking exhaust elbow.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The person who moved my boat was:
Kenneth Cox from Liberty, MO. His email address is (was) 
kenneth_...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:kenneth_...@sbcglobal.net>. Feel free to reach 
him, but I am not sure if he is still in business. This was 9 years ago.

I was very happy with his service.

Good luck

Marek


From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2021 12:27 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

Maybe the good bidder could give a recommendation on who could move the larger 
boat???
Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL


On Thursday, August 19, 2021, 03:36:06 PM CDT, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



I had very mixed experience with uship.com.



The first bidder was a crook and took the down payment and disappeared. The 
second (the one who actually moved the boat) was really great. I would gladly 
recommend him, but he cannot move anything that big (I think 28’ was his 
limit). So, be careful out there.




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I had very mixed experience with uship.com.

The first bidder was a crook and took the down payment and disappeared. The 
second (the one who actually moved the boat) was really great. I would gladly 
recommend him, but he cannot move anything that big (I think 28' was his 
limit). So, be careful out there.

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2021 1:02 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt ; Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Boat trucking recommendations

Steve,

I've been looking for a company to move a 49 foot boat east that we are looking 
at.  I got two bids - $14,000 and $26,000.  Low bid was from 
wemoveboats.com
 through 
uship.com


Joel


On Thu, Aug 19, 2021 at 12:55 PM Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A friend of mine with a 35-foot sailboat wants to move it from Cape Canaveral 
to San Diego. She is a bit frail to be sailing it back herself or she would be 
doing that. Anyway, the prices she has found so far are rather high. A New York 
based company quoted her $25,000 USD.

A different friend had his 35 foot Hughes trucked from Miami to Southwestern 
Ontario a few months ago for $7,000 CAD, so that seems a bit much. 
Unfortunately, that company is Canadian and can't do point-to-point shipping 
within the United States.

Any recommendations or anecdotal experience would be helpful. I know that 
several people on (or who were on) the list have looked into this or done 
similar moves themselves.

Thanks in advance,

Steve Thomas

C MKI 1980, C MKIII 1978
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  Thanks - Stu


--
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t use bags; instead, I use little hooks with a bungy or cord loop to hang 
the lines. This way they dry out quickly. And there is no issue of the mess in 
the bag (spiders, debris).

Picture here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lbhrxz6qgpw9s1q/20190618_200045.jpg?dl=0

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 14, 2021 5:52 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List halyard/sheet bags

Hey guys,

What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the companionway 
and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets.  Anybody have suggestions?  Pictures?

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Steering cable

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would suggest using the old cable as a messanger line.

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message 
From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-08-12 13:48 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Steering cable

You need someone nimble and experienced!

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 12, 2021, at 1:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

 A friend at our yacht club had his steering cable snap the other day.  I had 
been planning a steering system lube and check for a few years and this 
motivated me to move it to the top of my priority list.  While I was lubing and 
checking yesterday, I found one spot with broken wires on the cable.
1.  I was hoping to replace it in the Fall/Spring when the boat is out of the 
water.  Should I be more worried and plan to do it sooner?  There is plenty of 
intact cable, but I don’t know what causes these breaks and if they are an 
indication of imminent failure.
2.  the area under the pedestal is inaccessible without removing the pedestal.  
Obviously that is a big job, which I have never done.  Is it possible to 
replace the cable without removing the pedestal?  Would I be smart to hire 
someone to do this job (PITA for me, but easier for someone experienced)?
Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: 2-way headsets?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that people who are making these devices are earning about $3/day. 
The biggest cost is shipping and distribution.
We often don’t t think, how fortunate we are to live and work where we do.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Graham Collins via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2021 1:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Collins 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: 2-way headsets?


Very true.  In north america one couldn't buy the parts for 11 bucks, let alone 
add the labor $$ and some profit.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2021-07-29 1:38 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
Isn’t bad!!??
I don’t know how they can possibly make these things, ship them halfway around 
the world, with chargers, headsets, etc, for 11 bucks each!
This just defies reality.

But, there it is.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Not to mention that this piece of wood had to drift through the shaft log and 
the bellows before reaching the seal.

Marek
From: Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 11:56 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Stus-List Re: PSS Stuffing Box

Fred:

I’ve never heard or imagined anything so strange.  First, the shaft seal is a 
good foot or more below the waterline.  Pieces of wood generally float—so they 
would normally be near the surface of the water.  And then have a piece of wood 
lodge between the stainless and graphite seal on top of all that!  I would 
think the odds of that happening by natural occurrence would be astronomical.
Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jeff,

As you mentioned earlier, this topic shows up every so often.

As a PSS user, I am obviously biased.

The stuck graphite face was an issue in older designs (the unvented type). The 
Volvo version of the dripless seal still requires burping.

I can imagine that if I were to sail around the world, I might prefer the 
traditional stuffing box (the maintenance is easier and the spare parts can be 
fabricated by a skilled blacksmith ()), but if you sail in the area where 
spare parts are generally available, the dripless solution is completely 
reliable.

I am happy with my dry bilge.

Marek


1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON



From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 9:25 AM
To: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

Let's exclude power boats -- an entirely different environment and demand on 
the hardware.
Jeff L.


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that; though I have mine for only 9 years.

Marek

1994 #122 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: ssjohnson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 12, 2021 11:10 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: ssjohnson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Stuffing Box

I've had a PSS shafted, and a DRY bilge for 10 years...think it is great.
Spencer Johnson
84 LF38
Racine, WI

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance survey - surveyors

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Hi,

All this talk about the surveys, ...

Any recommendations for surveyors around Ottawa, ON?

Thanks

Marek

1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa ON



Sent from my Android-based can on a string


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu