Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

You don’t say what brand you have but does the paddlewheel have straight or 
curved paddles on it?

If they are curved you may have put the paddlewheel back on the transducer 
backwards.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: July-26-19 17:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Speed Paddlewheel ?'s

 

I have also been having issues with my speed transducer. I pulled the pin, 
cleaned the wheel, made sure the pin was straight, and I could flick it by hand 
and it would measure OK. Put it in the water, no good. Bought a new wheel, went 
through the same deal, got the same result. I cannot figure out why it will 
rotate freely in air, measuring accurately, and then won’t work at all when 
installed. New wheel, old wheel, new shaft, old shaft, no change.

 

Any ideas?

Gary 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CBC 26 rudder post

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Anthony,

I've sent some C 26 tiller to ruder stock pictures directly to you.

Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Anthony 
Coppola via CnC-List
Sent: July-13-19 23:58
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Anthony Coppola
Subject: Stus-List CBC 26 rudder post

Can someone with a cnc 26 (1978) send me a picture of the rudder post/ tiller 
attachment. I recently purchased a 26 and the post is just a tube with a hole 
drilled in it for the screw that holds the tiller handle. It doesn’t look 
right.  Shouldn’t it have some kind of fitting on top of the post for the 
handle to attach to, also cover the top of the post? 

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Grenadine's Paint Job

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Randy,

 

That is one of the best roll & tip paint jobs I’ve seen, he did a great job.

One point to remember, red is the worst colour for fading, once it’s cured keep 
it waxed.

I had a burgundy 25 from ’99 to ’16 and every spring it was a battle getting 
the colour back.

I did full paint jobs twice in that time frame and numerous touch-ups every 
spring.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy 
Stafford via CnC-List
Sent: October-31-18 21:50
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Stus-List Grenadine's Paint Job

 

Hi All,

 

Since my lake closed early this year (mid-September) for expansion construction 
over the winter, I took advantage of the beautiful fall weather to do a major 
project: painting.  The good news is that next season, we’ll have a 
brand-spanking-new marina facility.

 

After exploring a number of options e.g. places where I could do it myself, 
estimates from several business, etc., I decided to hire the job out to an 
experienced old salt with a small local boatyard.  I could tell he had an 
appreciation of older boats and got a lot of satisfaction from improving them.

 

He filled and faired all the gouges in the hull, and the C smile.  
Power-sanded the bottom and applied two coats VC-17 blue.  Above the boot 
stripe he rolled and tipped four coats of Interlux red, sanding between each 
coat and thinning the later coats.

 

I’ve put pictures of the result at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1AgG7585KNUspS1W8TsyUGq8hFgeP997h.

 

With that and new canvas (red sail / tiller / winch covers), and refinished 
brightwork around the companionway, she’ll be the sharpest boat in the new 
marina.  And hopefully faster in the club’s fleet too, with that smooth new 
bottom.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hurricane Michael

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

The news channels up here are saying it may reach Cat 4 by the time it makes 
landfall.

A nasty storm.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Hoyne 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-09-18 22:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Hoyne
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hurricane Michael

 

I will mention that to the captain!! Sounds like a good idea ;-)

 

I know!! we have had enough storms down here for this season. 

 

Good Luck and take care!!

 

Bill

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Hurricane Michael

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Here comes another one, any listers in its path stay safe.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1982 C 25

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Hi Roger,

 

The ’82 C 25 you are looking at would be a Mk2 model.

They have a different deck, keel and cabin layout than the Mk1s.

The deck is cored but not the hull, check for stress cracks around deck 
fittings and where the cabin doghouse meets the deck and for 
delamination/rotten core around the chainplates and the cockpit floor.

Take a small hammer or screwdriver handle and tap around the foredeck, side 
decks, cabin top and cockpit floor for signs of delamination, you don’t need to 
tap very hard.

The sound will be a nice sharp sound if it is good or a dull thud if it’s 
delaminated.

In the cabin, check for evidence of past water leaks or rot on the main 
bulkheads, especially around the chainplates and the beam under the mast step.

With the saildrives you either love them or hate them, my dad had one in his 25 
Mk2 and loved it.

I think they used a Honda engine on them so a rebuild or replacement shouldn’t 
be too costly if the lower drive is in good shape.

If you decide to put on an outboard make sure you get an extra long shaft model 
and a good mount.

The 25s tend to hobby horse under power in waves so you need the prop down as 
far as you can get it.

I had a 9.9 XL shaft on my 25 Mk1 and never had a problem with the prop coming 
out of the water on Lake Ontario or in Halifax.

You will need to glass in a plywood backing plate inside the transom to support 
the mount too.

It being a fresh water boat means it won’t have the corrosion problems of a 
salt water boat but you will still need to check the mast and rigging for 
cracks and wear.

Good Luck

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Roger Slade 
via CnC-List
Sent: September-19-18 08:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Roger Slade
Subject: Stus-List 1982 C 25

 

Hi all,

 

New to the group.  I am going to look at a fresh water C 25 built in 1982 a 
second time and wondered about any ideas of what to look for that is specific 
to this model.  I believe this boat has a cored deck and cored hull, so will 
look for any respective issues with water intrusion, deformities, etc.  Boat 
has been sitting for past 8 years (indoors) so assume it may be difficult to 
identify and wet areas of decking, but will look for any cracking or 
deformities around stanchions, fittings, mast step, etc. 

 

Boat has a 15hp OMC saildrive which needs a rebuild (seized) , so thinking 
strongly of removing that and filling in the hole and going with outboard.  
(engine is already out, but drive is stil in).   

 

Interested in any other thoughts on potential problem areas to check out.

 

Thanks! 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 30 -Foredeck Track (was Anchor roller and anchor locker?)

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

If they have hanks they aren't staysails, they're jibs that go on the
forestay.

The thinking back then was to have short hoist foresails for higher winds,
it was supposed to keep the centre of effort lower in the rig making the
boat more stable.

Headsails with a cunningham and sails that were reefable were also popular
back then, my 25 had them too.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Cleverboy
via CnC-List
Sent: September-13-18 10:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Cleverboy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 -Foredeck Track (was Anchor roller and anchor
locker?)

 

The boat DID come with 2 "short" sails. One a reefable blade and the other I
assumed was a 135. It also had a second tack cringle that I used to take the
"baggies" out of the luff. 

So, I would raise those sails without a stay to hank it onto? They both have
hanks. And thanks for solving my mystery!

 

Charles Ferari

Destrier

  _  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 30 -Foredeck Track (was Anchor roller and anchor locker?)

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Charles,

 

The track would be for a staysail and the pole foreguy (downhaul), they may
have been attached to the same car but usually each had their own car on the
track.

Since your spinnaker pole only has one bridle they probably did dip pole
gybes instead of end for end.

If your boat came with bags of old sails one is probably marked Staysail,
Tallboy, Spinnaker Staysail or Lowboy, they were popular in the '70s.

The main rule with a staysail is you gain a knot when you put it up and you
gain a knot when you take it down. J

Who knows, you may even have a Blooper too.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Cleverboy
via CnC-List
Sent: September-13-18 09:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Cleverboy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 - Anchor roller and anchor locker?

 

Gary;

 

My 30 is from 1973 and was raced extensively for its first ten years. Most
of the fittings and lines I recognize, but, I have a track with a car
running down the foredeck. The spinnaker poll has only one bridle for the
uphaul. Not sure what that track helped control. I mostly solo sail with
guest that wish I had a power boat so their drinks wouldn't spill. I don't
think i'll miss it but was interested in it's function.

 

Charles Ferrari

Destrier

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List boat specs misreported

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I think it is more likely that over the years, owners have put more and more 
gear on these boats which the designers never imagined when they designed them. 

I know of many people that had to raise the waterline stripe 4-6” once all the 
cruising gear was installed.

When I had my 25, I had it moved from Lake Ontario to Halifax.

Contrary to what I thought, with the same gear on board it floated lower in the 
salt water than it had in fresh.

I eventually had to raise the waterline stripe by 2”.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: July-09-18 10:19
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Stus-List boat specs misreported

 

Glad to see actual draft reported for the 37/40.  I believe many builders 
misreported draft and displacement to sell boats back in the 70's and 80's.  

 

Long ago, I noticed many differences between spec numbers and actual numbers 
for our boats. The 34/36 is spec'd for 4' 10 draft but the actual draft is 
closer to 5' 3".  I once asked Rob Ball about this and he said marketing was 
responsible and beyond his control.   

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New sails for C 34

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Jay,

When you're getting quotes, call Kevin Piper at Bay Sails in Hamilton he makes 
great sails and gives excellent service.

469 Bay Street North
Hamilton, Ontario
L8L 1N2 
(905) 529-7245

Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jay hackney 
via CnC-List
Sent: July-05-18 12:29
To: DON JONSSON via CnC-List
Cc: jay hackney
Subject: Stus-List New sails for C 34

I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C 
34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C 34: Windblown


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I used the card I have for online purchases that has a very low limit.

So far nothing extra has been charged and it’s been 8 months.

The site looked the same as this site.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-28-18 22:04
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

 

Well as they say, "There is no better teacher than that of experience."  Maybe 
I'll learn my lesson!

 

Josh 

 

On Thu, Jun 28, 2018, 10:00 PM Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My guess it you’ll get nothing and the charge on your card will be from China.

I fell for this scam on a similar site last fall on some car parts.

Luckily I challenged the charge and my card was refunded.

If it looks too good to be true, it is.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-28-18 21:52
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

 

I knew what I was doing and the risk being taken.  Good or bad, I take full 
responsibility for the outcome.

 

Thanks for the tip though! 

 

Josh

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 


 
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
 

Virus-free.  
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

My guess it you’ll get nothing and the charge on your card will be from China.

I fell for this scam on a similar site last fall on some car parts.

Luckily I challenged the charge and my card was refunded.

If it looks too good to be true, it is.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-28-18 21:52
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

 

I knew what I was doing and the risk being taken.  Good or bad, I take full 
responsibility for the outcome.

 

Thanks for the tip though! 

 

Josh

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Stephen,

 

I had the same thing on my Mk1, brown water squishing out when I tensioned the 
rig in the spring.

There is a plywood rectangle glassed into the deck that supports the mast step 
and transfers the load from the mast step casting through the deck, to the 
bulkhead cross member in the cabin.

The plywood is rotting and needs to be replaced.

I sounded out the deck around the step area to see if there was any 
delamination (there was), then cut off the top layer of the deck to the edge of 
the delamination and peeled it off.

If your very lucky it will come off in one piece or a few large pieces.

Once this is done you will see the plywood support and any rotten core in the 
area and you can remove all of the nastyness.

You can replace the plywood piece (encapsulate it in epoxy first) or just fill 
it all in with some fibreglass mat so it is solid.

If you were lucky you can glass the outer deck layer back on or just glass over 
the entire cut area until it is even with the existing deck.

Drill the step mounting holes from the inside to get the proper location then 
do the oversize drill to the bottom layer of the deck, epoxy fill, re-drill 
routine to ensure it doesn’t rot again.

Make sure you bevel the top of the holes to get a better seal with whatever you 
use to seal the holes before putting on the step casting.

Some fairing and paint and it’s as good as new.

It took me 3 or 4 days (3 or 4 hrs/day) to do the repair with simple tools, a 
dremel tool with cut-off wheels, oscillating multi tool saw, putty knife, 
chisel, hammer, drill and bits.

You’ll also need epoxy, some sort of thickener (I used colloidal silica), 
fibreglass mat (woven, not the chopped stuff), mixing containers, stirring 
sticks and the normal ppe.

It is a DIY job and the only precision areas are getting the deck thickness the 
same as it was with a flat area to mount the step and making sure the holes to 
bolt down the step are re-drilled in the original place.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stephen Kidd 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-14-18 10:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stephen Kidd
Subject: Stus-List C 25 II - mast step concerns

 

Hi all,

 

First, having found the archives for this list incredibly helpful, I wanted to 
pose a question about the mast step on my C 25 II (bought about a year ago 
somewhat impulsively, I confess). Occasionally, after prolonged rains, I'll 
find some water residue in the cabin under the mast step. It's dark brown, 
which has me concerned, and is dripping from one of the bolt holes. Not much, 
just some drops. I put some butyl around the step, which has seemed to solve 
the leak. 

 

The deck feels solid, but I'm wondering if this warrants a mast step rebuild. A 
failing mast step sounds scary. Any things I should check to diagnose? Any 
ideas on what a boatyard might charge to rebuild the mast step (rate is about 
$100 an hour)?

 

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Mast damage

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

Give Holland Marine a call, they bought all the spare parts when the CS factory 
shut down and built their CS 36 from some of the parts.
They may be able to help you source a new spar section and you can have all 
your existing fittings swapped over from your old mast.

Holland Marine Products
875 Lakeshore Rd. E., Mississauga, Ontario, L5E-1E2, Canada
(905)-891-1639 / fax:(905)-891-7972 email:i...@hollandmarine.com


Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of M Bodnar via 
CnC-List
Sent: June-12-18 14:30
To: C List
Cc: M Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Mast damage


Discovered over the weekend that my mast blew off the rack at the boat yard 
over the winter.  Landed on a lower level rack and dented the side of my mast - 
several feet above the gooseneck. Dent is maybe 5cm long and 3cm wide - max 
depth of about 3mm.

Met with insurance surveyor today - he is suggesting a few options - weld 
aluminum to the side of the mast, cut mast and install a sleeve, find a used CS 
30 mast or similar and replace or replace with a new mast.  Apparently the 
sleeve option would cause a stiff spot in the mast and make it harder to trim 
well for racing (which I don't do - but don't want to devalue the boat in the 
repair).  Not sure about the weld option.  No immediately available used CS 30 
masts locally.

Insurance has a set upper limit of $22500 on the boat - so write off is a 
possibility if they can't repair or find a used option.

Anyone have any experience? Advice? Know of any random CS 30 masts lying 
around???


Mark


-- 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Eric,

 

You can find a manual here 
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Perkins-Perama-M30-3618920.html

It shows a 7 psi cap for your engine.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-18 19:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank
Subject: Stus-List radiator cap replacement

 

The radiator cap on my Perkins diesel engine (Perkins Perma M30, installed by 
the PO around 1982) is badly rusted.  It’s easy to find a replacement that fits 
physically, but what opening pressure rating should it have? At 2000-3000 rpm, 
the temperature gauge reads about 175 F degrees.

 

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Some Saturday morning reading.

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Here is us passing Third Wave. That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

OK, he just passed us, but our kite looks better.

 

http://tinypic.com/r/2zibzhy/9

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
via CnC-List
Sent: March-09-18 22:00
To: cnc-list
Cc: Ken Heaton
Subject: Stus-List Some Saturday morning reading.

 

Grab a coffee and get comfortable, here is a bit of Saturday morning reading 
for you.

 

Below is a link to another of my occasional histories of remarkable C 37/40.  
In some of these stories it is the boat or events the boat is involved in that 
are remarkable, in others it is the owners.

 

This entry is more about two remarkable owners this particular C 37R enjoyed 
over the years.  Thanks to everyone who helped me gather the info for it, I 
hope you enjoy reading it.

 

https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/the-third-wave.html

 

//(\  \./) (\  \(\\\.(\/)/ /)/  

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

 

  
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Sorry Eric, I only know of the Canadian suppliers.

I have heard of some listers taking a piece of the spline to a glass shop and 
matching it up with their stock.

Anyone in MA. know where Eric can get the spline?

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Eric Frank 
via CnC-List
Sent: February-17-18 18:02
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Eric Frank
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

 

Rick,

The windows on Cat’s Paw (CC35 MkII) also need to be reset.  Do you know of a 
supplier in the US? Doesn’t have to be close to Boston, but someplace easy to 
order from for US sailors. 

 

Thanks, Eric 

Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA 

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Doug, it sounds like you have the older framed windows.

You need something between the frame and the lenses, thin foam or butyl tape.

The lenses go in next then a rubber spline gets installed in the gap between 
the lens and the frame to lock everything in.

Holland Marinehttp://www.hollandmarine.com/gasketpage.html and other 
places have the correct spline.

Holland Marine recommends the butyl tape but if you live in an area with very 
hot summers the butyl may weep a bit.

When you install the spline soak it in hot soapy water to make it very pliable, 
start putting it in at the middle of the top of the window and most importantly 
really work it into the corners without stretching it.

If you stretch it pushing it into the corners it will pull out as it ages and 
shrinks.

If you say where you are located in your signature line, local listers can 
probably point you to a local source for the spline.

It’s a time consuming job but not very hard to do.

Cheers

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Ellmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: February-17-18 15:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Ellmore
Subject: Stus-List C 24 Portholes

 

Before the snow started today, we got the old portholes out with the leaky 
lenses.  I have new lenses from another C 24 owner he never used before he 
crushed the boat.

 

So, I have to get all the goup and junk off the frames, get them clean.   Then 
figure out how to install properly.  

 

We put a tarp over the cabin to keep it dry with the snow and rain.

 

Looking at what was done by the last installer, does not look correct.  Go 
figure!

 



-- 

Doug Ellmore, Sr.

d...@ellmore.net

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

This is the best explanation I could find.

 

Do not use output drive extensions. Increased deflections, 

caused by the added length could force the socket off the 

nut, or break the extension or socket.

 

Some other sites state to use a single or double sided reaction bar if you have 
to use an extension on the output.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: January-15-18 09:51
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

 

Dennis, I'm totally in agreement with your thinking and think you are 
envisioning it correctly but I just wanted to check with the collective wisdom. 
 I wish the multiplier had expounded on their "do not use extensions" warning.

 

Josh

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List EBAY FIND AIS

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Sorry Rick, the Matrix GX2100 does have an AIS Rx built in. I've had one for
a number of years and it works great with the SH chart plotter.
It does need to be connected to a GPS for the AIS to work, maybe that's what
you were thinking of.
http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts=83;
encProdID=F858763BB81027701141A0167DE2A031


Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: January-11-18 21:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List EBAY FIND AIS

The 2100 does not have an AIS receiver. It has the capability to have an AIS
receiver interfaced with it.

The 2150 is the SH radio with the built in AIS receiver.

If anyone has a West Marine Pro account, or a friend who does that would
make the purchase for you, the SH2150 is on sale this week through the West
Marine Pro for around $100. The price for my WMPro account was $121.00

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

John,

 

Go here http://l-36.com/ , select Manuals, then scroll down to the Westerbeke 
section.

Try all the pubs listed for your engine because some of the links look to be 
mixed up.

Pg 34 of the W27 and W27a technical manuals say to set the idle speed to 
800-1000 rpm.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John 
Christopher via CnC-List
Sent: December-08-17 10:04
To: Dennis C.
Cc: John Christopher; CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

 

Hi,

 

I’ve been scouring thru information looking for the correct idle speed for a 
1983 westerbeke W27. Does anyone know?

 

/J


On Dec 8, 2017, at 9:57 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:

Page 52 here:  
https://www.westerbeke.com/technical%20manual/200554_m-25xpb_m35b_m40b_technical_man.pdf

 

Shows 800-1000 for the M-35 and M-40 (M series engines).  Suspect the M-30 is 
the same.  

 

The 25XPB is 1000-1200.  Slightly different engine.

 

On a side note, I'm looking out at an inch or so of SNOW here in south 
Louisiana this morning.  What the heck?  Very, very unusual.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Fri, Dec 8, 2017 at 8:37 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I have a device for measuring the rpm at the engine so I plan to do that when I 
adjust, but I can’t find anywhere in the service or owners manual what the 
“correct” idle speed should be.  Dave

 

On Dec 7, 2017, at 11:54 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

I am no Diesel Mechanic either, but it seems to me that the governor should be 
doing all it can to maintain your speed at a minimum idle. I know that mine 
(Kubota) will absolutely not go above 3,000, I seems that it would also hold, 
or should hold, at a minimum. Maybe only newer engines do this, I don’t know.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 7:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Engine idle speed

 

All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me of 
something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.  My 
engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember exactly what 
gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always stalls.  If I advance 
the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is obviously a real problem 
when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when I need to without restarting 
the engine.  So the question is: what is how to advance the idle speed 
slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end 
and not sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

University of Connecticut 

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269-3125

860-486-2200  

 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 37R

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

It could be this one in Toronto.

 

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/oshawa-durham-region/c-c-37r-rare-racing-de
sign/1315752749

 

Funny how they removed the picture of the smashed up toerail and deck when
they re-listed it this weekend.

It looked like it had been T-boned.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: November-27-17 17:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List C 37R

 

David 

Are you looking at CLockwork?

Tom B




> --
> Looking at a boat, (partially dismantle) but I can not figure where the
> fuel tank & fresh water tank are located.
> Some of the interior is missing.  Any help is appreciated ( if you have an
> interior drawing/kink) would be great
> 
> David



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Does anyone know the type of black plastic (Marelon?) stanchion base used on my C?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Yes, try Holland Marine.

http://www.hollandmarine.com/

Click on C Parts and the one you want is style “D”, $65.00 CAD so about $51 
USD.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: November-18-17 09:36
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Does anyone know the type of black plastic (Marelon?) 
stanchion base used on my C?

 

It is a 1994 C 37/40+.  

 

I have one stanchion base that is cracked that I'd like to replace.

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C MK II 35' Renovated, $11, 000 CDN | City of HAMILTON, Ontario| Kijiji

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

That boat had been listed there all year with bi-monthly price drops as the
seller got more desperate.
On the plus side it is a 35 Mk1 (not a Mk2 as stated in the ad) but the
cabin layout mods don't do it any favours.
The price is cheap but it is someone else's work in progress.

Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
Harben via CnC-List
Sent: November-09-17 12:58
To: cnc-list
Cc: Don Harben
Subject: Stus-List C MK II 35' Renovated, $11, 000 CDN | City of HAMILTON,
Ontario| Kijiji

Hi

No knowledge or affiliation but near enough to go look and take pictures

Don V34
Oakville

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/city-of-toronto/must-go-c-c-mk-ii-35-renova
ted-ready-to-be-put-in-water/1311842805


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Striping g...

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Use a 3M Stripe Removal Wheel.

 

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Stripe-Off-Wheel
?N=5002385+3293162209
 =rud

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: October-17-17 10:33
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List New Stripin g...

 

So I am putting on new name graphics and hull striping.   Assuming a good
clean of the old striping, could I not lay the new over the old and
eliminate the seemingly arduous (it being in a recess) step of removing it
all?

 

Thanks in advance

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avg.com 

 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Marine Museum of the Great Lakes

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

They’ve moved to the Portsmouth Olympic Harbour in Kingston and are still open.

https://www.marmuseum.ca/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via 
CnC-List
Sent: October-15-17 03:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek
Subject: Re: Stus-List C build files

 

The Marine Museum of the Great Lakes has not been doing too good of late. The 
last newsletter I got from them talked about being booted out of their 
quarters, and I don't know if they have found another place to move to. That is 
another great resource that may be lost.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman 

 C 39





___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Dennis,  those pre-feeders aren’t for slugs, they are for boltropes.

I put one on the Viking 22 that I had, the main didn’t have slugs or slides, 
just the boltrope that fed into the slot on the mast.

 

Rick Taillieu

Boatless 

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: September-28-17 16:19
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Mainsail pre-feeder?

 

OK, has any lister seen a mainsail pre-feeder/feeder that goes in a track with 
slides?

 

Let me clarify so I don't get replies that miss the mark.  Touche's mainsail 
slot has slides, not slugs.  A slug is round, slides are "T" shaped.  Slugs go 
into a round slot.  Slides go into a "T" shaped slot.

 

Here is a feeder for a slug slot:  
https://www.mauripro.com/us/product/SPIRFMA.html

 

This is a slide:  
http://www.nauticexpo.com/prod/allen-brothers/product-29493-218604.html

 

Here is a feeder that attaches to the mast: 
http://www.apsltd.com/dinghy-sail-feeder-8mm-max-luff-1.html

 

I see lots of mainsail pre-feeders/feeders that go in the round slug slot or 
attach to the mast across the slot with fasteners but I can't find any that 
simply go into the "T" shaped slot.

 

I guess slides are outdated?  Was kinda wanting a pre-feeder that I could 
simply put in the slot.  

 

May have to get a slug feeder and replace the slug with a flat metal slide.  :(

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List boat insurance for Liveaboards

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Try Dawn Marie at W.C.L. Bauld in Bedford, she handled my account when I had my 
25.

 

Dawn Marie Penney [dawn.ma...@wclbauld.com]

 

620 Nine Mile Drive, Unit 102, Bedford, NS B4A 0H4

ph: 902.832-6767  toll free ph: 877.925.2285

fax: 902.835.2604

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Cedar Island Yacht Club

Kingsville, Ontario

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: September-22-17 14:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Stus-List boat insurance for Liveaboards

 

So as some of you may know I live aboard Breakaweigh full time here in Canada. 
It's still new to me and I've been working out boat insurance and weighing 
options. My current insurance is with Intact insurance and is roughly $600 
canadian dollars a year however when the topic of winter liveaboard came up 
they decided to not cover me whatsoever and I've had to look elsewhere. My 
local broker found me some insurance through "Yachtline Insurance" in the UK 
which has amazing coverage for all seasons including named storms, however it 
is very pricey at $2200 canadian per year. Does this sound reasonable or should 
I be looking elsewhere?

 

Thanks guys,

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C 44, 1986

Halifax, NS

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Because a 120 amp alternator working at ½ max output will last a lot longer 
than a 60 amp alternator working at full output.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

boatless

Cedar Island Yacht Club

Kingsville, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: September-12-17 21:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts

 

Wow!  What am I doing with a 120 amp alternator?

Mike

PERSUASION

C 37 K/CB

Long Sault


On Sep 12, 2017, at 9:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the batteries. 
 Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity.  So a 100Ah battery should 
not be charged at a rate greater than 25 amps.  I have a 400 Ah bank and a 200 
Ah bank.  My 90amp Balmar alternator could exceed the rate for my smaller bank 
so an ACR, Echo-charge, or reducing the alternator output would be prudent.

 

I'm guessing that with 3 batteries you are probably close to 300Ah and 
somewhere around 60 to 75amps is the absolute most you would want coming from 
your alternator.  Leaving it set to 60% is probably just right.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 




On Mon, Sep 11, 2017, 10:36 PM coltrek via CnC-List  
wrote:

That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise /race. 
I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep Cycle 
batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of walked 
me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead of 95%. I 
don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think that it 
might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting up. Anyways, 
after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory defaults, and it started 
working properly again. I'm not sure if I should ramp my regulator back up to a 
higher charging level or not. One thing I did after that, is I bought a Balmar 
regulator temperature sensor. I think it cuts the charging back and the load if 
it gets too hot.

 

 

Bill Coleman

C & C 39



 Original message 
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
Date: 9/11/17 22:15 (GMT-05:00) 
To: C  
Cc: ALAN BERGEN  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry 

I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the 
engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check that out 
before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency.

Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the 
chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We suddenly 
smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured out.  After 
closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator belt had been 
slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine pulley.  Luckily I 
had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the repair was completed.

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get it 
going it always works but I fear someday it won't 

I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations you 
have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000  

I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100

Very confusing

I looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the 
starter

Maybe that's the problem?

I'd like to know myself

 

Dan 

1970 Cv hull 148 

Ipswich 


Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Mastry (www.mastry.com 

 ) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take Five this weekend and got 
a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's the 
best! They always have the best price, they even beat eBay and the shipping is 
super fast. 

 

That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 3gm30F's 
serial number. 

 

Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the Yanmar 6 
mos new parts warranty.  

 

The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It would 
sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. 

 

-Francois

1990 34+ "Take Five"

Lake Lanier, GA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 

Re: Stus-List 30-2 height

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Fin keel or wing keel?

That will make a difference of 1¼ ft.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Still boatless

Leamington, Ontario

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: September-02-17 10:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-2 height

 

Chad:

The height of a boat from the bottom of the keel to the top coach roof and
pulpits (bow and stern) will remain constant, however, the height of any
cradle will be the variable.   And if you are talking 'inches' through the
doors, that can be the determining factor.

Put your boat on the cradle and measure from the top of the bow pulpit to
the ground.if that measurement fits the door(s), you are probably in.

Sorry I can't be more precise.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-02 11:18 AM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List wrote:

Anyone know the height of a 30-2 on a cradle, or keel to highest point with
the mast removed? 

 

We are considering storing indoors this year and need to see if it will fit
through the doors.

 

Thanks,






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

 


 
 

Virus-free.
 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Here is the link Mark.

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2010-October/035503.html


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Smith via CnC-List
Sent: July-26-17 22:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Smith
Subject: Stus-List I need help with portlights


Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style
aluminum framed portlights?
I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by the
PO and I don't think they were done correctly, so I don't have a reference
to go by to do it right.  Are there any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing
should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the window construction so
I can do it right).
I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these
archives.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

The Canadian Yachting article on C history on the Photo Album site 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/archive/cnchistory/c2c.htm ,

says that the 30E was a “europeanized” version of C 29 mk1.

Any issues with the 29 mk1 would probably apply to the 30E as well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

  _  

From: "sander via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "sander" 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 4:24:58 AM
Subject: Stus-List New potential C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I’ve seen peg board used here, it stops everything from falling into the shaft 
and lots of holes to provide airflow to the engine compartment.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
doug.welch--- via CnC-List
Sent: June-07-17 12:45
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Separation between locker and engine 33-2

 

I have no separation between my cockpit locker and the shaft and engine other 
than a short piece of glasses wood that is about a foot high.  This really 
limits the usefulness of the locker.  I had a dinghy paddle bounce into the 
shaft that caused my some brief trying to determine where the burning plastic 
smell was coming from. I assumed it was an impeller (every once in a while the 
sound of hooves are zebras 鸞). I checked a friend's 29-2 and it has a nice 
removable panel that looks original. My current plan is to fabricate a 
removable separator from wire shelving but would like to get the group's 
suggestions on other options. 

 

Cheers Doug

Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b

Frenchman's Bay

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Navico PH 8000 Autopilot Issue

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

How about these, are they close to yours?

 

http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-US/Products/Discontinued/Navico-H5000-Handprogrammer.aspx

 

http://www.simrad-yachting.com/en-US/Products/All-Discontinued-Products/Navico-PH8000-Powerpilot.aspx

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-17 22:41
To: C List; John Timm
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Navico PH 8000 Autopilot Issue

 

Hello all,

 

Our new (to us) 1994 C 37/40+ has a Navico PH 8000 autopilot.  The hydraulic 
ram works, as I can get it to turn the wheel to the stops.  I have been able to 
find a manual online for it, but it references the Junction Box/Amplifier unit 
as JA 8000, where ours is clearly labeled JB 8000.  Also, I can't find a manual 
for the wired remote controls, labled H8000 and HP8000.

 

When I engage the autopilot, it turns sharply port, and stays there.  The 
instructions contain no reference to calibrating the fluxgate compass, but the 
Mode button on the wired remote shows a calibrate function, though I can't tell 
if that is the issue.

 

Does anyone here have experience with this autopilot?

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deck non-skid

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

 

The hairline crack in the gelcoat at that location is very common.  You can 
open the crack up a bit, fill and sand smooth, then finish off with your stripe 
in gelcoat or paint.

On C, the non-skid pattern is part of the deck mold so the deck gelcoat 
should be all the same colour regardless if it is in the smooth or non-skid 
surfaces.

If your non-skid is a lighter shade and has grit in it then it has been painted 
at some time, just not by C

 

Cheers

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-06-17 10:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
Subject: Stus-List Deck non-skid

 

So...I'm looking at a hairline crack in non-skid portion of foredeck, right at 
the seam where the foredeck ends and the trunk cabin begins.  Needs attention, 
and thinking of creating a one-inch bright gelcoat "stripe" that follows the 
contour of the forward edge of the cabin.  This would allow a good fix without 
repainting the nonskid.  All exposed smooth gelcoat is off-white (cabin sides, 
etc), and the non-skid is a whiter-white.  Hope that adequately describes my 
dilemma...

 

The question:  Is the non-skid portion a paint the factory applied to the 
gelcoat after set up in the mold?  Or is the non-skid area sprayed onto the 
mold during the manufacturing process, and the silica added after?  Has anyone 
sanded the non-skid to see what's under there?   


 

 

Chuck Saur

 

(517)-490-5926

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Eye splice in used line

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I taught myself how to splice so it can’t be too hard. J

Splicing used line is harder to do but it can be done.

Buy about 20 feet of the same size and type of line you have to practice on 
before you try your sheets.

Also, wash your sheets and double rinse them to get any salt out of them before 
you start.

I coil them and tie them in an old pillow case when I put them in the washer, 
also use fabric softener in the last rinse to make the sheets soft.

Hang them to dry and you’re all set to go.

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: April-09-17 12:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Eye splice in used line

 

I intend to go to soft shackles on my Genoa sheets.  My genny sheets are 
several years old. I'm wondering...Once lines have been used for several years 
( light use ) will doing an eye splice become harder or too difficult?  I have 
not done an eye splice before and want to avoid shortening my sheets too much 
with failed splicing attempts. Any tricks on used lines?

 

thx

 

Tom B

 

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brent, there might be a terminology problem here.

 

Fresh water cooling: It is a closed system with antifreeze in it pumping 
through the block and a heat exchanger.  Raw water (fresh or salt) pumps 
through the heat exchanger too then is mixed with the exhaust and out of the 
boat

Raw water cooling: It draws cooling water (fresh or salt) and pumps it through 
the block then it is mixed with the exhaust and out of the boat.

 

By your description I think you have a raw water system.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brent 
Driedger via CnC-List
Sent: April-01-17 20:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brent Driedger
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

 

The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping it's 
not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the gasket were 
blown?

 

Brent

27-5

Wild Rover. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such as a 
blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet smell, 
you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going down, with no 
apparent leak?

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, reconnect to 
the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts to spray.  Pop, 
pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, wide cone pattern, 
equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should do before you send it to 
a shop.

 

If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves of the 
injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces with 
something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You have to 
be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A hardwood scraper 
can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  When you satisfied, 
reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for spray pattern.  Re-install.

 

While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon which 
will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to replace 
the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead gasket and a 
copper foil disc which go between the injector and the precombustion chamber.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Yanmar 3HM35F

Solomons, MD 

 

On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Greetings all.

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank.
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it.
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

McLube Sailcote melts butyl, it wipes off easily.

Something to be careful of if you spray any deck blocks that have been bedded 
with butyl tape.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: March-23-17 20:36
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Removing Old Butyl Tape

 

Listers-

 

Any tips on solvents or techniques for removing old butyl tape used to bed deck 
hardware?

 

Thanks,

Randy

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Electro Marine Systems

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Moor Electronics used to make Moor/EMS sailing instruments up until 2015 
http://www.moorelectronics.com/sailing.html .

Their web page has some places listed where you can get parts in the USA.

If you’re in Canada, Dowser Marine in Hamilton, ON was a dealer for Moor, they 
may still have some parts

 

Good Luck

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Guy 
Nadeau via CnC-List
Sent: March-12-17 22:53
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau
Subject: Stus-List Electro Marine Systems

 


I have an EMS knotmeter on my C Don't know if it is original equipment but 
I need a new impeller. A search shows that the company is no longer in 
business. Does anyone know where I can get the part?

 

Cheers, J-G 

Callisto, C mk2

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pilothouse C 40

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Found on Stu’s site:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/photos/tarnhelm/tarnhelm.htm

 

She’s a custom C 40/LF 38 hybrid.

Originally named Tarnhelm, now called Palu (Stu’s site says Pagu but I found a 
picture with the name on it here 
http://images.boatdealers.ca/129953/3765778/cccustomyachts-38custompilothouse.jpg
 ).

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: March-09-17 01:26
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pilothouse C 40

 

A vessel has recently been listed on Yachtworld as a C 40 "Landfall" 
Pilothouse, which has some interesting characteristics;

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1983/C%26C-Landfall-Factory-Pilothouse-3064974/Toronto-ON-SITE-Outer-Harbour/Canada#.WMDlUU0zXIU


It is an intriguing design, and obviously a custom vessel; however, I can find 
no reference to a Landfall 40 on the Photo Album listings, nor is there 
anything even close...the Landfall 39 is a center cockpit boat; the listed boat 
has the normal aft steering arrangement...the next closest Landfall is the 42, 
also a center cockpit boat;
does anyone know what this design could be?



(PS; just curious, not looking to purchase!)
Richard

s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


 

 

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Try this link.  Scroll down to the bottom for the pictures.

It looks like a partial skeg.

 

http://360cruisers.com/2016/09/01/1981-cc-landfall-48-happy-valley/

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Christopher 
Chase-Dunn via CnC-List
Sent: February-13-17 16:19
To: Dreuge
Cc: Christopher Chase-Dunn; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List c landfall 48 hull configuration?

 

dear paul,

thanks. i cant get into images.boats.com.

r  u sure that one is for the lff48?

if so looks like a skeg-hung rudder but cant tell if it is a full or partial 
skeg.  

chriscd

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

I would just go to a local machine shop and have them make a new one using
the old one as a template.

Probably cheaper, faster and better made than trying to find an original.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power
via CnC-List
Sent: February-11-17 09:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power
Subject: Stus-List Deteriorated mast step

 

 

Hi, I own a C 30 MKI that has a badly eroded aluminum mast step, is there
a place where I can get a replacement.

Thanks for any help.

Cheers,

Tom

Sent from Outlook  

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com  
Version: 2016.0.7998 / Virus Database: 4756/13931 - Release Date: 02/11/17

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25 MarkII mast step

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Robert,

When I sold my 25 this past summer I made a "boat book" for the new owner
that described everything I did when getting the boat ready for lift-out and
preparing it for launch.
If you want, I can send it to you, it's 18Mb in size.


Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Snyder via CnC-List
Sent: February-01-17 11:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Snyder
Subject: Stus-List C 25 MarkII mast step

Hello all,

I'm very new to this list, so I'm not even sure if this is in the correct
format.

I've recently come into possession of a 1981 C, and would like to unstep
the mast. The mast fitting seems to have an incorporated tabernacle. Does
anyone have experience with this endeavor?

Thank you kindly,
Robert Snyder

"North Country Lady" Lake Champlain 



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25 MarkII mast step

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Robert,

Are you going to use a mast crane/gynn pole or do you want to do it at your
dock by tilting it back using the pivot?


Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Snyder via CnC-List
Sent: February-01-17 11:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Snyder
Subject: Stus-List C 25 MarkII mast step

Hello all,

I'm very new to this list, so I'm not even sure if this is in the correct
format.

I've recently come into possession of a 1981 C, and would like to unstep
the mast. The mast fitting seems to have an incorporated tabernacle. Does
anyone have experience with this endeavor?

Thank you kindly,
Robert Snyder

"North Country Lady" Lake Champlain 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Patrick,

 

Have you tried to remove the U bolt first

Put the nuts back on the U bolt but not touching the block.

Hit the nuts with a hammer alternating sides each hit.

Once the U bolt breaks free you can tap it all the way out with a drift or pull 
it out from up on deck.

If the block is still stuck to the liner, tap the side close to one end to get 
it to rotate on the rod, 

this should break the sealant bond and allow it to drop free.

 

Good Luck

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: January-08-17 12:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Patrick Davin
Subject: Stus-List Pulling rod chainplate backing block on LF38

 

Anyone have experience pulling this style of chainplate? Photo uploaded here: 
https://svviolethour.com/chainplate/

 

Wally's site also has a good picture of one once it's open: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/newrig/cplates/cplates.htm

 

Wally says his were bedded in silicone, which probably made it really easy to 
pull, but mine don't appear to be silicone - some white sealant/adhesive which 
I'm afraid might be 4200 or in the worst case 5200. The backing block is 
adhered to the fiberglass deck undersurface, and to the bolts of the U-bolt. 

 

But mostly it's hard to pull because the block has nothing good to grip on, and 
it's in a tight location with bulkheads / cabinetry blocking access to two 
sides. 

 

Anyone have tips for how they did it? Did the backing block come off easily, or 
were there some tricks / gotchas?

 

I've tried: vice grips, flathead screwdrivers used as wedges and hammered on 
the end, heat gun, pulling up on the U-bolt above deck, and trying to pull down 
the backing block using the threaded rod itself (over-tensioning it - I stopped 
this before it got too scary - don't want to break it). 

 

The next things I can try are: torch (stronger than a heat gun for melting 
glue, but I don't want to burn the fiberglass or set something on fire). More 
hammering on wedges.

 

-Patrick

1984 C LF38

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Foul weather gear

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Adam, there is nothing like good foul weather gear if you've suffered
through the cheap ones.  After years of using cheap foulies, they don't call
them WetSkins for nothing, I bought a set of Gill GoreTex coastal gear from
their clearance centre in the USA.  What a difference, 6+ hours in the rain
and I was still dry.  When I moved out to Halifax I bought a set of Henry
Lloyd GoreTex gear on sale at The Binnacle as a back-up set.  GoreTex or one
of the current high tech fabrics is the way to go.  My Gill gear is 13 or 14
years old and still look like new, the Henry Lloyd gear is about 8 or 9
years old and looks new too.  They stayed on the boat all season and I wash
then at the end of each year.  I have used the Henry Lloyd
cleaner/waterproofing kits and the Grainger's G-Line care kits (both 2 oz
cleaner & 2 oz water proofer) from The Binnacle with great results.  Now I
have the NIKWAX cleaner and water proofing system, 10 oz bottles, that you
can get at MEC in down town Halifax.  I also recommend a pair of Salopettes
instead of bib bottoms, they are much more comfortable to wear and you don't
have to fight with shoulder straps slipping off all the time.  The Binnacle
is the best place in the area to get what you need.  Check their on line
store to see if you see anything you like then drop into the store, you want
to be able to try them on because every manufacturer's sizes are a little
bit different.  Sometimes you can get a deal on EBay but you tack your
chances.  I bought a Musto offshore jacket for my son that was like new and
will probably last him the rest of his sailing life.  Musto quality is
amazing, much better made than the Gill or HL gear.  One thing to remember
with the high tech fabrics; don't use regular soap, use the cleaning kits
and it's the heat of the dryer that activates/re-activates the
waterproofing.

Happy New Year

Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Adam
Hayden via CnC-List
Sent: December-31-16 14:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Adam Hayden
Subject: Stus-List Foul weather gear


Happy new year everyone!I would be interested in people's opinion on
foul weather gear.  I am looking to replace upgrade my Gil coastal cruising
coat.   It seems that it is no longer water repellant and reapplying the
waterproofing doesn't work. I like a number of the features on the coat but
I feel it should last more than 3 full seasons.Up here in Nova Scotia we
have pretty cool and damp weather so for a lot of the season I wear my gear.
I won't be doing any ocean crossings but we sail well into October as well.

I don't have a Bimini and am usually the one at the helm during inclement
weather


Adam Hayden
C 36


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Back in the day, 1970’s, we would have two staysails on board.  A Tall Boy and 
a Low Boy (I think this is the sail originally asked about).  The Tall Boy we 
would use on a reach with either the spinnaker or genoa and we would hoist it 
on a dedicated halyard. spare genoa halyard or an unused wing halyard depending 
on how the boat was equipped.  The Low Boy we would use with the spinnaker on a 
run and hoist it on a spare halyard like the Tall Boy.  We would tack it to the 
windward toerail and it would fill in the area below the spinnaker.  It would 
get very busy trying to fly the chute, blooper and staysail when going down 
wind.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: November-22-16 16:32
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Early C Sails - now staysails

 

Depends.  Lots of scenarios for this depending on your masthead configuration.  
If you hoist on the windward spinnaker halyard and tack the staysail on the 
windward toe rail (legal in my area for most races) AND the wind is light then 
it may not chafe on the forestay.  Or if you tack to center line and hoist with 
a leeward spin halyard, then the wind will push it away from the forestay 
depending on halyard tension.

I guess one could use a spare jib halyard also.

I'm guessing chafe isn't a big deal.

 

I guess the real question is what does it do for the sail plan?  Does hoisting 
it from the masthead project it more forward and in better air?  Or does 
hoisting it from the topping lift open it up more away from the headsail or 
chute?

I'm not a huge fan of staysails anyway.  I think there's a lot of truth to the 
old saying "you gain a half knot when you hoist a staysail and you gain a half 
knot when you drop it".

I may ask some of the really good sailors in my club.  I'm curious now.

Dennis C.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacing 33-2 Bow Roller and Fitting

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I don’t know if Klacko Marine are still around, they’re in St Catharines.

http://klacko.ca/

Contact info is at the bottom the web page.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-16-16 16:02
To: C List
Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacing 33-2 Bow Roller and Fitting

 

I would like to replace the Bow Roller and Fitting (stemhead?) on my 33-2 with 
something stainless that's a little beefier, has an attachment point for my 
code zero and provides better gelcoat protection for my self launching anchor. 
Has anyone replaced the bow roller fitting. It looks like the stem fitting is 
totally separate for the jibstay plate. Would love to hear from anyone who has 
experience with removing the stem plate or recommends for a fabricator near 
Pickering On. 

 

Cheers,

Doug

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25 galley extenstion

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

Are these what you're looking for?
http://www.perko.com/catalog/cabinet_hardware/369/table_brackets/


Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: October-16-16 10:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Stus-List C 25 galley extenstion

Hello all,

I was looking at a C 25 on sailingtexas.com and it had what looked like a
1 foot by 1 foot plug in extension for the galley.  I have hardware on each
side above the foot wells that looks like it could receive a two pieces that
could slide in.   Does this ring a bell with anybody?  It'd be great to some
how get ahold of the hardware and make the extensions if I needed to.

Thanks,

Mark
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7797 / Virus Database: 4664/13219 - Release Date: 10/16/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

There are a couple ways that you can do this.  At my current club we have a 
pseudo pursuit race, we start the boats at one minute intervals according to 
their PHRF rating and then compute each boat’s TOT corrected time after the 
race.  It’s a lot of work for the RC but ends up with a more fair race.  At my 
former club we had a true pursuit race.  We worked out the length of the course 
and computed the TOD start times for each boat entered.  The slowest boat 
started first and each boat had its designated start time.  The first boat to 
cross the finish line won.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin 
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: October-10-16 20:16
To: C List
Cc: Kevin Driscoll
Subject: Stus-List Race Committee for Pursuit Race

 

Has anyone been organized and been Race Committee for a 'Pursuit Race' 
  
before? I am curious how you went about it. 

 

Obviously there is some calculation of start times in relation to each boat's 
rating. These are our contestants 

 . I figure there will be three starts. 1 for the 'Level' racers, 1 for 'No 
Score' racers, and another for PHRF, i.e. the Pursuit racers. This is the first 
race in our winter series, which runs till March. We thought we might kick it 
off with a fun race format. Thanks for your input!

 

Kevin 

30-2

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7797 / Virus Database: 4656/13183 - Release Date: 10/10/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List st60 wind instrument

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Dwight,

Did the files I sent you come through?
I sent them to both of your email accounts.


Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: October-02-16 13:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List st60 wind instrument

don't know that Mike, it's still with the MacKay electronics tech. I asked him 
to keep trying for a while longer to find the part, they don't really want to 
do work for recreational boaters as they are into commercial marine, MacKay in 
Dartmouth, used to be Esterline CMC electronics which was a Raymarine service 
spot just last summer, and the tech, Joey, fixed my autopilot controller last 
summer, all that took was 1 cheap resistor,  that's why I took it to him in the 
absence of any Raymarine service depot around here and maybe in Canada 
anywhere. The way it is with Raymarine service around here (none) for their 
gear, and they sell a lot of it around here, I think maybe the Binnacle should 
drop Raymarine altogether instead of pushing it, seems to me a lot of people 
need service on a lot of Raymarine gear, I don't consider it throw away stuff 
just for the sake of 1 small part and a shop to diagnose and repair...maybe the 
Binnacle does, more money in selling a new replacement unit Dwigh
 t Veinot C 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Contact or magnetic, either way, be careful when you sit down. :)



Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: August-29-16 18:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List EV 100 autopilot

Mines under the Nav seat. 
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
PO Box 632
Newport, RI 
USA 02840



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor test - recommended lunch hook/kedge?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

The primary anchor on the 25 that I had was a 25lb CQR with 23ft of chain
and 150ft of rode and I never dragged when I had proper scope out.
My lunch hook was a 5kg Bruce that I hauled up from the bottom one day and
it held almost as well as the CQR.
Danforth/Fortress anchors work well in sand and mud but are useless in rock
and weeds.


Rick Taillieu
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Syerdave--- via CnC-List
Sent: August-27-16 21:08
To: C Stus List
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Anchor test - recommended lunch hook/kedge?

Interesting few hours today doing an anchor test.   A young guy at  port
Whitby marina was looking for an anchor for his tanzer 26, to replace the
really tiny and cheap ski-boat danforth type that came with his boat (and
had proved impossible to set).  We had discussed over beverages a few times.

I thought to try my (never tried) fortress fx-7 lunch hook - 120' rode, 10'
chain.   We dragged it all over the bay at 8:1 or better scope.  Could feel
it bumping along a hard bottom.It finally hooked up and was kinda
sideways.   Now the bottom is, I think, a rock shelf under silt and clay,
but I don't really know.  
We parked his boat and returned with Windstar (my 33 mkii) and her 10kg
Bruce with 50' heavy chain.  (Plus 150' rode) Let out the chain only,
dragged 20' and set hard.  You could feel and hear it bumping over a very
hard bottom before it did so.   Should have tried in 2 or 3 locations to
prove it was not a fluke.   (So to speak) 
 He now wants a load of chain and a 10kg anchor for his 4000lb boat!
Lol
Anyway, the fortress isn't going to work for me.  What do folks use and
trust as a lunch hook/kedge?  As always, thanks.   
Dave.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4647/12892 - Release Date: 08/27/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint topsides?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brandon,

 

I’ve used both Brightside and EZ Poxy on my former 25.  Both times I used a 
dark Burgundy colour.  The Brightside went on very thin and had really poor 
hiding qualities so you needed multiple coats to get good coverage.  The EZ 
Poxy went on really nice and covered really well with two coats.  Single part 
polyurethane paint can be used over pretty much any paint (try a test area 
first) but you definitely want a primer coat to ensure you have fixed all of 
the gouges and imperfections in the hull, it will also give you a nice even 
colour base under the finish paint.  As already mentioned, Brightside cures 
faster than the EZ Poxy (here in NS it took about two weeks to get really hard) 
and both will fade over the year (especially red), a few coats of a good wax 
are needed once the paint is cured.  Because of the high heat you will need to 
add a thinner to allow the paint to flow out and get a smooth finish, contact 
the manufacturer of the brand you decide on for their recommendations for your 
area.  Spraying is best but you can get a good finish with the roll & tip 
method.  Make sure you have help, it is hard to get a smooth finish if you try 
to do it alone.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brandon 
Gaspard via CnC-List
Sent: August-23-16 13:09
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brandon Gaspard
Subject: Stus-List Anyone use Pettit Easypoxy (EZ-Poxy one part) to paint 
topsides?

 

I'm painting my hull with a one part topside paint and I decided on EZ Poxy by 
Pettit.  I've heard better things about Pettit's one part than Interlux's 
Brightside.  Awlgrip is much more expensive and supposedly much more difficult 
to work with.  I'm painting a C 35 Mk1 in the sweltering Louisiana summer 
heat.  Any tips on using EZ Poxy?

The plan is a good pressure washing, followed by Bio Blue Hull, orbital sand 
with ~200 grit, acetone clean, paint (brush and tip), sand with 300 grit, wipe 
down, then apply a second coat.  Boot strip and details will be done with 
Pettit Boot Top.

I don't plan on priming because Tango's original gel coat has already been 
painted over.  The paint job is holding up and looks to be in decent enough 
shape to paint over. 

Any tips or suggestions?

Brandon
C 35 Mk1

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4647/12865 - Release Date: 08/23/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Any rope clutches in parts bins? Spinlock, Schaefer? '85 33ii

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

It look like The Binnacle still carries the side fairings for the old style XA 
clutches.

 

http://ca.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Rope-Clutches- 

 
&-Deck-Organizers-Spinlock-parts/c28_349_417/p3261/SPINLOCK-XA-SIDE-FAIRINGS-(PAIR)/product_info.html

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-21-16 16:53
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Any rope clutches in parts bins? Spinlock, Schaefer? '85 33ii

 

Hi All,

 

Part failure yesterday, a rope clutch broke.   Could replace with similar 
vintage Spinlock or ideally a vintage Schaefer that matches the others.   See 
photos below.   Thanks for looking!

 

Dave

 

 

 

 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/08/bang-broken-spinlock-rope-clutch.html

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4647/12849 - Release Date: 08/21/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oddball 33-2 deck fitting

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Does you fitting look like this?

 

http://boat.net.nz/product/stainless-steel-deck-filler-38mm-or-50mm/

 

If so this could be your adapter.

 

http://www.irrigationwarehouse.com.au/prod2182.htm

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-19-16 16:46
To: C Stus List
Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oddball 33-2 deck fitting

 

Visited the boat today and saw that the fittings were made in NZ by RC Marine, 
once, along with Ronstan, a division of the long-gone Fortuna (apparently not) 
corporation.   These deck fills look an awful lot like those currently offered 
by Forespar, and I have an inquiry in with them.   Maybe they acquired the 
line/tooling.





Dave.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Thanks Fred, I’ll keep that area in mind when the time comes.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: August-15-16 10:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick — when you get settled over this way, come to the Apostle Islands area for 
a sail and boat shopping.  The biggest C dealer in the world used to be 
located at the wet end of Lake Superior, so there are plenty around.

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Aug 13, 2016, at 8:19 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 

Just a quick note to say the new owners of Nemesis have picked her up and moved 
her up Halifax harbour to Dartmouth Yacht Club.

She has gone to a good home and the new owners are going to join the list.

Why did I sell her?  I am retiring in October after 36+ years in the RCAF and 
this is the first step in my retirement plans.

Next is to sell the house and move back home to southwestern Ontario.

After we get settled in there, we plan on getting another boat in the 33-38 ft 
range and cruise the great lakes.

I’ve owned a boat since 1998 and it is weird not having to worry about storms, 
hurricanes and taking time off for lift-out.

I’m going to stay on the list and if any 25 owners have any questions, I’m here.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4647/12813 - Release Date: 08/15/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Thanks Mark and thank you for picking up the mast base casting for me and all 
the bits you salvaged from the other boat.

That’s one of the best things about this list, you can converse with basically 
a perfect stranger from another country and you can trust them to pick up and 
send you parts and they can trust you to pay for them.

It speaks loads for the integrity of the people here.

As for being an expert on the 25, no, I’ve just been around them longer than 
most people.

I crewed on these boats when they were new and I had mine for 17 years, wow was 
it that long. J

I just learned by doing.  I was never scared to tackle a job and if I had never 
done it before, I read up on how to do it, then did it.

Today was the first day that I couldn’t go down to the boat and hang out.  I 
went and walked the Halifax waterfront instead and found a new craft distillery 
down town.

Of course I had to pick up some Black Rum.  

All in all a good day.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark G via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 18:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark G
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick,

 

I don't have a boat to sell you and I don't know of any for sale in that area!  
But I do want to thank you for all the information and advice you've provided 
to us 25 owners over the years.  Many of us are newbie sailors and a 25 is our 
first boat.  Your responses to our many questions have saved us a lot of time, 
money and frustration.  You and Rick Brass are undoubtedly the 25 experts on 
the list!  Glad to hear you'll be hanging around online.  And congratulations 
on your retirement!

 

Mark

C 25 Mk 1 WILLIIWAW

Dartmouth, MA

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Hi Mike, nice boat.

I’ll keep you in mind once the time comes to go boat shopping again.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 13:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Persuasion37
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Hi Rick

 

I wasn't going to put my plug in but I know where there is a nice 37 footer for 
sale.  Keel centre/board draws 4' 6".

 

Not officially for sale yet but it might fit your schedule.  Check out 
Persuasion37.com



Mike

PERSUASION

C 37 K/CB

Long Sault


On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:47 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Stu,

 

I cut it off at 5½’ because I want to keep the boat at Cedar Island Yacht Club 
in Kingsville and they dredge to about 7 or 8 ft through the sand bar at the 
mouth of the channel.

Leamington is close but you still have to find a place to store the boat for 
the winter, for a deep draft boat that would mean going up to Windsor or around 
Point Pelee to Erieau.

A place on Lake St Clair is an option but not really high on my list because 
there is nowhere to go for a night or two like there is on Erie.

I’ve been spoiled, I’ve always kept the boat a 5-10 min drive from home so an 
hour drive to get to the boat isn’t desirable.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick

 

Why only 4 1/2’ draft?  

 

Leamington and Erieau have deeper harbours.  Belle River, Bruce River, Puce, 
South Port Sailing Club, Windsor Yacht Club and Lakeview Park Marina on Lake 
St. Clair are all deep.  None of them too far from Kingsville.

 

We usually camp in Kingsville once a year and are familiar with the area.

 

Stu 

  
<http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGZkZwZ0ZwL2AmtzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Vj.gif>
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Steve, it used to be a lot worse in the ‘70s with the old breakwalls.  You had 
to turn east at the end of the shorter eastern breakwall, travel along the 
shore until you were lined up with a certain house then you could turn out into 
the lake and pass through a dip in the sand bar.  I grew up at CIYC and my dad 
and brother are past Commodores.  My brother had a 33 mk1 with 4’9” shoal 
draft, most of the time he didn’t have any problems getting in or out.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 15:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Even at 41/2 feet, Cedar Island can be tricky getting in and out of. I bounce 
off the bottom getting in and out of there with my 27. Nice club and friendly 
people. Reciprocal privileges with the Port Stanley Sailing Squadron as well. 
You need a car or a bicycle to get anywhere. :)

 

Steve Thomas

C MKIII

Port Stanley, ON 

 

- Original Message - 

From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Rick Taillieu <mailto:rtaill...@eastlink.ca>  

Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 11:47

Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Stu,

 

I cut it off at 5½’ because I want to keep the boat at Cedar Island Yacht Club 
in Kingsville and they dredge to about 7 or 8 ft through the sand bar at the 
mouth of the channel.

Leamington is close but you still have to find a place to store the boat for 
the winter, for a deep draft boat that would mean going up to Windsor or around 
Point Pelee to Erieau.

A place on Lake St Clair is an option but not really high on my list because 
there is nowhere to go for a night or two like there is on Erie.

I’ve been spoiled, I’ve always kept the boat a 5-10 min drive from home so an 
hour drive to get to the boat isn’t desirable.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick

 

Why only 4 1/2’ draft?  

 

Leamington and Erieau have deeper harbours.  Belle River, Bruce River, Puce, 
South Port Sailing Club, Windsor Yacht Club and Lakeview Park Marina on Lake 
St. Clair are all deep.  None of them too far from Kingsville.

 

We usually camp in Kingsville once a year and are familiar with the area.

 

Stu 

  
<http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGZkZwZ0ZwL2AmtzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Vj.gif>
 

  _  

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Thanks Graham, it will be a year to a year and a half before we start looking 
for the next boat.

I hope yours will be sold by then. 

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Graham Young 
via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 12:26
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Graham Young
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Hi Rick,

 

Congratulations on your pending retirement.

 

I know you said you wanted a C in the 33-38 foot range, but perhaps you would 
consider a C 32?  Mine is for sale and located in Cleveland.  If you have any 
interest, let me know and we can talk off list.

 

Graham

 

 

 

On Sunday, August 14, 2016 11:01 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 

Stu, we’ll be moving to Kingsville, down near Windsor.

A bit of trivia, to go from Windsor to Detroit you go north either over or 
under the Detroit river and the Essex County region is at the same latitude as 
northern California.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 11:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick

 

What part of Ontario are you relocating to?

 

Stu 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/> 
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

  
<http://mailtrack.me/tracking/raWzMz50paMkCGZkZwZ0ZGLlBGNzMKWjqzA2pzSaqaR9ZwH2ZGDjBGp1Vt.gif>
 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Stu,

 

I cut it off at 5½’ because I want to keep the boat at Cedar Island Yacht Club 
in Kingsville and they dredge to about 7 or 8 ft through the sand bar at the 
mouth of the channel.

Leamington is close but you still have to find a place to store the boat for 
the winter, for a deep draft boat that would mean going up to Windsor or around 
Point Pelee to Erieau.

A place on Lake St Clair is an option but not really high on my list because 
there is nowhere to go for a night or two like there is on Erie.

I’ve been spoiled, I’ve always kept the boat a 5-10 min drive from home so an 
hour drive to get to the boat isn’t desirable.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick

 

Why only 4 1/2’ draft?  

 

Leamington and Erieau have deeper harbours.  Belle River, Bruce River, Puce, 
South Port Sailing Club, Windsor Yacht Club and Lakeview Park Marina on Lake 
St. Clair are all deep.  None of them too far from Kingsville.

 

We usually camp in Kingsville once a year and are familiar with the area.

 

Stu 

  

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Stu, we’ll be moving to Kingsville, down near Windsor.

A bit of trivia, to go from Windsor to Detroit you go north either over or 
under the Detroit river and the Essex County region is at the same latitude as 
northern California.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 11:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stu
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Rick

 

What part of Ontario are you relocating to?

 

Stu 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

  

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary, our move will be next summer so it will probably be next fall or 
the next spring before we will be looking at boats.

I love the 39 but it’s a bit too deep for the place I want to keep a boat.  
I’ll be limited to about 5½ ft max draft.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Zuehlke 
via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 11:33
To: C email list
Cc: Gary Zuehlke
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

I happen to know where there is a C 39 for sale in the Great Lakes area.  If 
you are interested, I can give you details and put you in touch with the 
gentleman selling her.

I owned it for eleven years so I do know a bit about the boat.

 

On Aug 14, 2016 06:03, "Rick Taillieu via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Thanks Jim,

 

The next one will be a C that has spent its life in fresh water.

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 01:17
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Congratulations on your advancement to adulthood. Hope you hang around, maybe 
you can score a nice C back in Ontario. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12806 - Release Date: 08/14/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12807 - Release Date: 08/14/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Thanks Jim,

 

The next one will be a C that has spent its life in fresh water.

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: August-14-16 01:17
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List The boat is sold

 

Congratulations on your advancement to adulthood. Hope you hang around, maybe 
you can score a nice C back in Ontario. 




Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7752 / Virus Database: 4633/12806 - Release Date: 08/14/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List The boat is sold

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Just a quick note to say the new owners of Nemesis have picked her up and
moved her up Halifax harbour to Dartmouth Yacht Club.

She has gone to a good home and the new owners are going to join the list.

Why did I sell her?  I am retiring in October after 36+ years in the RCAF
and this is the first step in my retirement plans.

Next is to sell the house and move back home to southwestern Ontario.

After we get settled in there, we plan on getting another boat in the 33-38
ft range and cruise the great lakes.

I've owned a boat since 1998 and it is weird not having to worry about
storms, hurricanes and taking time off for lift-out.

I'm going to stay on the list and if any 25 owners have any questions, I'm
here.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

(now boatless)

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List snatch block details?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

Try soaking it immersed in white vinegar for a few days.

After a day see if you can get the sheave to turn.

Once it breaks free it will clean up fairly quickly.

Same thing for the snap shackle end.

It’s slow but it does work.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard 
Walter via CnC-List
Sent: August-04-16 15:34
To: CC List
Cc: Richard Walter
Subject: Stus-List snatch block details?

 

Greetings,

 

INDIGO has a set of heavy-duty snatch blocks for the jib sheets. The bodies are 
solid black rummer and there is a trident stamp marking on the strap.

 

One of the block's shieves is seized; looks like it'll need new pins and 
possibly a new sheive.

 

Any ideas who may have made this block, are they still available, and where 
replacement parts may be obtained?

Thank you,

Richard

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12745 - Release Date: 08/04/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Marine Surveyor Halifax,NS

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Aaron,

 

Gino at:

 

Superior Marine Surveys

902-231-6667 (cell)  902-827-2642 (home)

 

He has done the last three surveys on my boat.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Aaron
Rouhi via CnC-List
Sent: August-02-16 11:38
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Subject: Stus-List Marine Surveyor Halifax,NS

 

Hello! Does anyone know a reputable surveyor in Halifax, NS?

 

Cheers,

Aaron R.

Admiral Maggie,

1979 C 30 MK1 #540

Annapolis, MD

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12733 - Release Date: 08/02/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Those look really nice Fred, I wish they were available when I did my project.

Also, in case I assumed too much, with these type of through deck seals you can 
just use the insulated spade connectors on the wires instead of the expensive 
waterproof connectors.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: July-29-16 17:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

 

You could also use the oval ScanStrut version for multiple cables:

 

http://www.scanstrut.com/products/electrical-accessories/ds-multi-deck-seals-aluminium-detail

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 29, 2016, at 3:36 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 

Mark,

I have fought with the mast wiring problem on my 25 ever since I bought it
in 1999. I have three cables coming from the mast, VHF coax, mast lights and
wind instruments.
Because it is deck stepped there are only a few products that can be used
and none of the ones I tried worked for more than a couple years before the
contacts corroded beyond cleaning or the crew stepped on the connector while
racing.  I also got rid of the original C wiring leading into the deck and
sealed off that leak point into the core.
Finally a couple years ago I saw these
 <https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in> 
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in and the problem was
solved.
In my future boat anything removable that needs to go through the deck will
have one of these.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis (soon to be for sale in Halifax)
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12708 - Release Date: 07/29/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

I have fought with the mast wiring problem on my 25 ever since I bought it
in 1999. I have three cables coming from the mast, VHF coax, mast lights and
wind instruments.
Because it is deck stepped there are only a few products that can be used
and none of the ones I tried worked for more than a couple years before the
contacts corroded beyond cleaning or the crew stepped on the connector while
racing.  I also got rid of the original C wiring leading into the deck and
sealed off that leak point into the core.
Finally a couple years ago I saw these
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in and the problem was
solved.
In my future boat anything removable that needs to go through the deck will
have one of these.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis (soon to be for sale in Halifax)
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: July-29-16 11:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

Hello Everyone,

A while back I posted I was having trouble with my anchor light flickering
and going out.  I traced the problem to the outlet at the base of the mast.
It's just a smidge too loose to make good contact all the time.  There is a
split on each prong of the plug which I have made bigger in order to get
better contact, but the connection still fails unless I push the plug to one
side or the other.   Before I pull the outlet and replace it, I wondered if
anyone had any ideas?   I've also cleaned the outlet as best as I could.
There was some corrosion, but it's gone now.

As always, thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7690 / Virus Database: 4627/12708 - Release Date: 07/29/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Disassemble a Barient 22 Winch

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Rob,

1 - Find someone that has the little plastic handle that came with the
winches that you can borrow. Use that to hold the drum while you loosen the
allen screw, or;
2 - Find an old locking winch handle that has the locking mechanism broken,
pop the broken bits off and use as above, or;
3 - Use a strap wrench to hold the drum then loosen the screw.

I have the little wrench if you can't find someone at your club that has
one.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: July-20-16 19:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Disassemble a Barient 22 Winch

It's been a few years since I serviced my Barient 22 winches and I can't
remember how I disassembled them..specifically, how to unscrew the
'Allen Screw' because when you try to do it, the winch turns.

If you don't have a winch handle that allows an 'Allen Key' to drop down
into it to reach the 'Allen Screw', how do you prevent the winch from
turning to loosen the 'Allen Screw'?

I bow to the collective wisdom of the C site to help me.more
importantly, my winches need lubrication.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7688 / Virus Database: 4627/12648 - Release Date: 07/20/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Randy,

 

I can’t comment on rig tuning for a 30 but for your 1-4 list here are a few 
tips.

 

1 – Boat speed is very important. Going up wind keeping up your speed through 
the water will allow the keel to generate lift.

2 – Don’t pinch trying to outpoint the Catalinas.  Don’t trim your genoa closer 
than 4-6” from the spreader, the sail should never touch the spreader, it will 
make you slow.

Do you have inboard tracks? If not still sheet inside the lifelines. I have a 
tape marker on my spreaders 6” from the tip and use that as a trim gauge.

Catalina 27’s have a gift PHRF pretty much everywhere, I have to give them time 
in my 25.

3 – The key to boat handling is practice. Take your crew out on non race days 
and practice starts, mark roundings and sail trim.  I don’t know how many crew 
you have but the helmsman should be concentrating on steering, the trimmers in 
the sail trim and rail meat looking outside the boat for traffic, gusts, lulls 
and shifts and passing them on to the rest of the crew.

4 – Yes, the 30 is very stiff. That means you can carry full sail much longer 
than other boats.  One other point, how old are your sails?

Old sails will be slow and will never out point a boat with newer sails.

 

Good Luck with your racing and keep at it

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: July-15-16 19:57
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY; Steven Tattrie
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing

 

It's awesome that you have a half-dozen 30-1s racing in your club.  You could 
have your own little one-design fleet :)  You must be somewhere on the Great 
Lakes I'd guess.  And your competition may be reading this email thread :)

 

Regarding tuning the rig, I just followed the owner's manual.  Centered 
masthead side-to-side measuring with main halyard to rail, tightened upper 
shrouds until turnbuckles were "hard to turn", tightened lowers to have an inch 
of play.  Set 8" rake with backstay adjuster (my backstay doesn't have a 
turnbuckle) and with forestay turnbuckle "hard to turn" i.e. very little 
headsail sag.

 

Here's what I've found so far racing my new-to-me 30-1 in my club's just-ended 
spring series (ten Wednesday nights).  I raced in a non-spinnaker PRHF division 
sailing triangle courses.  My main competition is a couple of Catalina 27s with 
folding props, rating 221, and much more experienced skippers and crews.  I 
have a fixed prop and 198 rating and crew of total newbies.

 

1. Despite propeller differences, I can meet or beat their boat speed on every 
point of sail under the right conditions: a) the wind has to be up enough, say 
Beaufort 4, to overcome their displacement advantage of about a ton; and b) my 
sails have to be optimally trimmed.  The 30-1 has better SA/D and D/L ratios 
than the Catalina 27, but it takes some wind to see those advantages, and it 
takes good sail trim against experienced competition.

 

2. They can out-point me by maybe five degrees.  I flew my 155% genoa all 
series, because my rating doesn't account for my 170, and I never had a windy 
enough night to drop back to the 135.  I'll start pinching if I get closer than 
say 40 degrees to the wind with the 155.

 

3. I'm getting beat on boat handling and tactics.  Our maneuvers aren't sharp 
enough yet, and I need to have consistently good starts and stay in clean air 
more, and these skippers know the lake's wind patterns better than I do.

 

4. My 30-1 is stiff as hell.  One night after a race the wind piped up to 
Beaufort 6 and I hit 7.6 knots on beam/close reach, according to GPS, under 
full main and 155, and I *still* didn't get a rail in the water (very close 
though, within an inch or another degree of heel).  Then my genoa tore :)  She 
did want to round up under that much wind and sail, and I'd say weather helm 
requires attention and tuning by Beaufort 5.

 

I decided to stay in the non-spinnaker fleet for the summer series.  Just flew 
the spinnaker for the first time after the race this past Wednesday night, and 
my crew needs more practice with it.  We had a pre-race crisis this week - main 
halyard jammed at masthead sheave - I was at the masthead in a bosun's chair 
unjamming it during my start sequence :)  We managed to get the sails up just 
in time, but we were discombobulated and this will be our throw-out race for 
the summer series :)

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "Steven Tattrie via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Steven Tattrie" 
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2016 7:13:00 AM
Subject: Stus-List C 30 MK1 PHRF racing

 

Hi, 

 

I have been PHRF racing at our local club, this is my first year with a C 30 
MK1 (1979) is there a thread or anyone have comments on getting the best out of 
the boat, eg tight rigging, rake, sail selection, strength or weaknesses 

Re: Stus-List C Manual Bilge Pump

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

 

If it’s a Whale Gusher pump there are two flapper valves in the pump that can 
get stuck open if something gets caught in them.

The result is no suction or exhaust.

There could also be a hole in the diaphragm which would cause the same symptoms.

I would remove the pump and open it up before randomly changing hoses.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: July-12-16 21:33
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List C Manual Bilge Pump

 

The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working.  I believe it's original.

 

My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to get 
the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump and 
ensuring there is suction there.  Then replace the hose and ensure a good seal. 
  

 

Any words of wisdom from the group on this?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 

  

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4627/12605 - Release Date: 07/12/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25 ice box

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

The 25's icebox isn't insulated very well if at all.
Unfortunately you pretty much have to disassemble the cabinetry around the
icebox to properly add any insulation.
You might be able to take out the screws around the top of the liner and
slide it out the top to gain access to the inside, if not then the counter
top has to come off.
I don't have the stock icebox in my boat, I had to rebuild it when I bought
the boat.
A previous owner had removed it to get more foot room in the slide-out
berth.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: July-10-16 10:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Stus-List C 25 ice box

Hello everyone,

I've noticed that my ice chest doesn't seem to keep ice very long.  Does
anyone know how these are insulated?  Also, any ideas to increase the
insulation are much appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!
-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12592 - Release Date: 07/10/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,
 
Check the connection from the mast to the boat for tightness and corrosion.
The bulb could also be loose in the fixture at the top of the mast.
 
Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25
Halifax, NS. 
 
On 06/29/16 08:18, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  wrote: 
>  
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
> Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
> Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
> intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed 
> down into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had 
> a bad connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original 
> electrical panel with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the 
> top of the mast is new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I 
> tore it apart I thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30mkI numbering

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Randy,

 

I’m not sure for the early boats but according to the build file,  for my 25 
the hull was moulded in Nov 74 (start of the layup), the boat was completed in 
Dec and shipped out to the dealer in Jan 75.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: June-18-16 11:15
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY; rick bushie
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30mkI numbering

 

I'm guessing the N stands for November?  So the 30-1 was being drawn by 1970 
according to dates on Rob Ball blueprints I have, and the first hull was built 
in 1971.

 

Does anyone know at what point in the build process the month and year are 
fixed for a given hull?  Is it when the hull is released from the mold?  Or 
when the finished product rolls out of the factory?

 

Cheers,

Randy

 

  _  

From: "rick bushie via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "rick bushie" 
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2016 1:27:38 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30mkI numbering

 

Anchovy doesn't have a HIN.  Just a small C plate on the transom inside the 
cockpit with 30-1 on one end and 1971N on the opposite end.

 

Rick Bushie

1971 30-1 Anchovy

Tolchester, MD


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4604/12447 - Release Date: 06/18/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

We heard that from our side of the harbour.

Were boats actually in the way of the container ship or was the pilot boat 
overreacting again.

He must have given you guys the five toot salute at least four times.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: June-09-16 09:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

 

Chuck

 

It seems that Pilot boats use horn signals and that Container ships trump all 
vessels.

 

Last evening during a Wednesday race with 30+ sailboats in varying classes in 
light winds the Pilot boat leaving the harbour stopped mid fleet turned 
backwards and repeatedly sounded their horn for a period of minutes.  Have 
never seen that before.  I suspect is also not the last we will hear of this.  

 

I doubt the pilot boat or ship would have had any patience with stand up paddle 
boarders either as we clearly know who is on the top of the heap in ROW 
discussions!

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2016 7:35 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

 

I took all the coast guard and power squadron courses and learned all the regs 
and rules and horn signals and flag signals and right o way stuff.  What I 
learned from 35 years of observation is; nobody uses horn signals or flag 
signals and lawyers have the right of way, so never invoke right of way unless 
you are racing, always take steps to avoid collisions early, and don't ever hit 
a lawyer.  

 

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "ALAN BERGEN" 
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 1:33:59 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Right of way (ROW) discussion

 

It seems to me that there are a number of people on this list who don't know 
the rules.  Perhaps it's time to read Chapman's "Piloting, Seamanship and Small 
Boat Handling".  The pecking order is:  rowboats (including kayaks, canoes, 
paddle boards), sailboats, powerboats.  Then there are exceptions:  tug pulling 
a barge moves up the pecking order; overtaking boat moves down the pecking 
order and I'm sure there are more.

 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 8:25 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

>From Urban Dictionary:

 

 

 dufus

dummy, fool, idiot

OR

 

 

 doofus 

Someone who hasn't got a clue! 
They live in blissful ignorance of the world, fashion, personal hygiene and 
social skills. 

 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jun 8, 2016, at 10:20 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

BTW, exactly how do you spell the word/term pronounced “doo-fuss”?


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7639 / Virus Database: 4598/12391 - Release Date: 06/09/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Steve,

 

Check here,  http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=664

They have both sizes (3/8” & 5/16”) and a Mississauga office.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan 
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: May-25-16 13:32
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Stevan Plavsa
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Posts

 

Hi,

 

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have to wade through some of those links you 
guys sent. Regarding the crimping of cables:

 

The battery cables are routed through the quarter berth, engine compartment, to 
the battery switch which is not easily accessible. So, I'll have to do some 
boat surgery just to get at the switch in order to disconnect the battery 
cables, then remove them from the boat which would take I estimate, about a 
day. No kidding. I relearn the lesson of budgeting time appropriately for boat 
work every time I think I'm going to get something done quickly, it's never 
quick and the list of things that really need to be done, is long. The past two 
weeks I worked six days each and managed to launch the boat, step the mast and 
get three garden beds in at the house. I am not a person who has a lot of time 
on his hands. 

 

I appreciate that you guys are recommending the "right way" to do this, but I'm 
comfortable with the adapters. They are threaded, and not going anywhere - just 
like the nuts that are recommended. I've always found the clamp style battery 
connectors to be secure and that's how the boat has always been for 36 
years now. The laws of physics haven't changed though I appreciate that 
standards have, and that's fine. One day I'de like to embark on the rewiring 
project but that's what it's going to be: a project, not a "spring prep" task. 
Ideally, those projects take place in the off-season so that they don't eat 
into precious sailing time.

 

The boat is 1.5 hours away. That's three hours of driving (on a good day, 
traffic around here is hell) just to fetch the cables never mind the amount of 
work involved in removing them. Sure, I could buy new ones, but I still have to 
remove the old and install the new. 

 

So, I'm looking for the adapters. I'll dig through all the helpful posts once I 
have time to breathe.

 

Thanks,

 

Steve

Suhana, C 32

Toronto

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2016.0.7598 / Virus Database: 4568/12292 - Release Date: 05/25/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Topping Lift wire size ?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

My owner’s manual says it’s 3/32” 1x19 Stainless Steel cable, 27’ 6” long with 
5’ of 1/8” yacht braid spliced to the lower thimble thimble.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-13-16 12:43
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad
Subject: Stus-List Topping Lift wire size ?

 

Hello folks,

I am buying a swageless fitting to add to the end of my topping lift on my C 
25

Does anybody know off hand what the size of the wire  is ? probaly 1/8 ? 

 

Thank You

Ahmet

"Tabasco" 1973 C 25

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6201 / Virus Database: 4568/12223 - Release Date: 05/13/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Maybe the Admiral blocked them on your computer?

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-10-16 00:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

 

Thanks guys.

 

It’s a mystery at this point.

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4568/12201 - Release Date: 05/09/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I just tried them, they both work fine for me.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: May-09-16 20:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Peter Fell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Binnacle website

 

Chandlery online as well.

 

From: Peter Fell   

Sent: Monday, May 09, 2016 4:31 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Subject: Binnacle website

 

Is is just me or is Binnacle’s Canadian website down ... like for the last week 
or so?

 

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C 27 MkIII

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4568/12200 - Release Date: 05/09/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Corvette 31 #66 , original Atomic Four , shaft size ?

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Justin,

 

All of the Corvettes that still have the Atomic four have a 7/8” shaft.

Here is a link to the association if you don’t already know about them, you 
might even be able to get a used prop off of a member.

http://www.corvettesailboatassociation.com/

 

BTW, there has got to be a story behind the missing blades, are you going to 
tell or keep us all in suspense?

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Justin 
Drößler-Kreuser via CnC-List
Sent: April-21-16 17:04
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Justin Drößler-Kreuser
Subject: Re: Stus-List Corvette 31 #66 , original Atomic Four , shaft size ?

 

There is 1/3 of a blade , 1/4 of a blade , and 2/3 of a blade, what does that 
make, an eggbeater ?? ;)  

On Apr 21, 2016 3:09 PM, "Russ & Melody via CnC-List"  
wrote:


Hi Justin,

My original A4 shaft size was 7/8".

I up-sized to 1" with the changed to diesel using the same old stuffing box & 
strut (with new C/bearing).

OTOH, a two blade prop is more efficient and a single blade is even more 
efficient than two. :)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1 1972

At 10:55 AM 21/04/2016, you wrote:




Can anyone verify for me what the shaft size would be, possibly 7/8 ?? It's 
direct drive of course I need to know so I can survey my options for a used 
prop, my 3 blade is missing blades and needs replacement
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4556/12073 - Release Date: 04/21/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Roller furling manufacturer

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

You might find what you need here.

http://www.rigrite.com/furling/stearn/stearn.html


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jason
Ward via CnC-List
Sent: April-15-16 14:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jaw...@mymts.net
Subject: Stus-List Roller furling manufacturer

Does anyone know which manufacturer used this symbol. I am trying to find an
owners or service manual for it.   Any information that can be provided is
appreciated. 

Jason

-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4545/12039 - Release Date: 04/15/16


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Preventer

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Rob, 

 

You should be very glad that you had the preventer on.

I was at the C Owner's Regatta at NYC in 2001, on the Sunday a cold front
went through with gusts to 50kts (this was the same front that capsized the
trimaran during the Mac race).

The winds had died down some by race time so we decided to go out.

Another squall line went through the offshore course while we were racing
and a C 35 Mk3 broached, the boom hit one of the crew on the head as it
swung across, killing him.

The boom flying across during a crash jybe can do a lot of damage to the
crew or the boat.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: April-12-16 17:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Preventer

 

Joel:

I am no expert on this but if your block on a genoa track can handle a
tightly loaded jib sheet it should handle the load of the main sail from an
accidental gybe..if the preventer is fastened without any slack, there
should be no jolt in the preventer..just the pressure on it as the main
is held in place and the boat lays on its side and hopefully runs up.

Been there done thatMarblehead RaceC 33 MKIIspin run,
following seapreventer.accidental gybe in a 5 ft. following
sea.really ugly but the boat, rigging, sails and crew all survived.
Really wished that day we had not had a 'preventer'.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




On 2016-04-12 3:35 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

The shock load from an accidental gybe? 

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Apr 12, 2016 at 2:32 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

Bob said " I've used a block on the forward end of the genoa track but it
seems like a lot of load for such a track."

If you are connecting the boom to a block on the genoa track as a preventer,
there shouldn't be much tension at all..what am I missing?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




 






___
 
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4545/12019 - Release Date: 04/12/16

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

There is an email address in the last line on the page.

 

I used to race against Gerry back in the ‘70s when I was a teenager, he is a 
great sailor and a tough competitor.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
airdale143--- via CnC-List
Sent: March-17-16 21:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: airdale...@juno.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt

 

How does one contact Gerry?

-- Original Message --
From: Stu via CnC-List 
To: "C Email List" 
Cc: Stu 
Subject: Stus-List Birth of a Mega Putt Putt
Date: Fri, 4 Mar 2016 10:26:22 -0500

Gerry Giles has just completed his conversion of a C Mega to what he calls a 
“Mega Putt Putt”.

 

This is not the first time a Mega has been converted – in fact we are still 
looking for the original.

 

See what Gerry has done at:  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/other/mega_putt_putt/ 

 

 

Stu

  

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6189 / Virus Database: 4542/11838 - Release Date: 03/18/16




  
nowbuzzing
You Won’t Believe These Moments Caught on Camera
  
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/56eb49f96ee2249f91e67st03duc

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Production number

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I bet your hull has been painted at one time so the numbers are hard to read.

My guess would be: CCY352700474

CCY – C Yachts

35 – model (could be 36 too, I’m not sure how they were labeled)

270 – Hull Number (the last number could also be an 8)

0474 – The month and year that the hull was laid up

 

Is there a  stamped plaque somewhere in the cockpit, that would have the model 
and hull number in a slightly different format.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jgnadeau via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 12:22
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jgnadeau
Subject: Stus-List Production number

 

Hi All

New to this forum and just bought Callisto, C 35 Mk II. 

Quick question: is there a way to determine the hull production sequence number 
from the serial number or official numbers? Callisto's are:

HIN: 33Y3627CC474

ON: 32E 24426

My guess would be the 244 number of the ON and that the keel was laid in Apr 74 
(last 3 of the HIN)



There were 351 of these produced and I would like to know where she lies in the 
production line and any other information included in these numbers.

 

Cheers, sailorjg

Victoria, BC

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11496 - Release Date: 01/27/16

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

Here is a link to a picture of the table base in my cockpit.  You don't want
the table too far forward or it will block the companionway.

 

http://s20.postimg.org/5wxahimxp/DSC_4675.jpg

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

 

Thanks Mike,

 

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks
for the tip.

 

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me
to the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed
it yet as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but
it may be done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this
weekend.I don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.


Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

Mark

 

Our friends with the 1974 25 "Dry Red" modified the cabin table so that it
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports
the table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both
ends.  One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table
and then they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in
cockpit floor that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End
result was a very sturdy table both inside and out

 

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides
and epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of
bilge pump was located.

 

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been
affordable but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of
capabilities in a smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior
is very usable for cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Mark,

 

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of
the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a
dinette that converted into a berth.  

There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the
core when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.

The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for
the cockpit.

I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It
rotted away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want
to remove it to reseal it anyway.

It's so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you're relaxing after a day
of sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to
one side.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added
a post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read
that some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

 

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation
in waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens
when you replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a
plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a
2" thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on
the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for
sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises
but it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I
made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps
over the lifelines.  It gi

Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000.  I used one 
existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base.  
I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I 
didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the stanchion into 
the base.  When I sailed on Lake Ontario and removed the stations every fall 
for my winter tarp I had no problems removing those screws.  Since I’ve been on 
the Atlantic and changed my tarp installation method I don’t have to remove the 
stations.  After a couple years the screws will not come out of the base.  I’ve 
had two bases crack and had to cut them apart to get them off the toerail.  
Luckily I had bought some used bases at a local club’s flea market and this 
time I drilled the hole for the screw that holds the stanchion larger so I 
could use a machine screw and a locknut on it.  Now it won’t seize into the 
base and if it sticks I can just use a small punch to tap it out.

The added room that it makes on the decks is definitely worth the trouble.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-25-16 20:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on 
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.

I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut under 
the deck.

It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on the 
aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.

In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room, and 
solid.

Ahmet

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

Winthrop, MA

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the 
type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I 
think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you 
mentioned.

 

I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of 
the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to 
handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an 
additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint 
(which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and 
a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, 
IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took 
about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the 
bolts through the hull to deck joint.

 

My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in 
the new installation, but YMMV.

 

I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:

 

It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even 
though it is only about 5 inches on each side.

The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical  
but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought 
the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a 
problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s).

On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, 
so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and 
drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.

And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the 
deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations 
where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, 
but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into 
the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming 
season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old 
bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck 
repairs; at least in those areas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to 

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mark,

 

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of
the Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a
dinette that converted into a berth.  

There's no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the
core when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.

The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for
the cockpit.

I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It
rotted away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want
to remove it to reseal it anyway.

It's so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you're relaxing after a day
of sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to
one side.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

 

Hi Rick,

 

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added
a post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read
that some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

 

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

 

Mark

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL


On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mark,

 

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

 

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.

I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation
in waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens
when you replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a
plywood backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a
2" thick, one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on
the outside.  The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for
sailing.

 

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises
but it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I
made a boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps
over the lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in
all but the worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the
cockpit floor so we can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made
a plywood board that fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It
serves as a great bar and a place to place for the stove when cooking so the
heat stays out of the cabin.

 

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your
25, I know the boats very well.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During
our sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.
I'll be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets
here in FL, but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low
tide with and easterly wind.

 

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's
just my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over
100 nm to get down there.

 

Thanks again for the info.

 

Mark

 

 

 

Mark McMenamy 

"Icicle" C 25

Fort Pierce FL






___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11490 - Release Date: 01/26/16

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 70

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brian, 

 

I found that link by doing a Google search for your engine.

I did the same for a parts book and found this link, it shows a couple 3JH2 
models.

http://www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/common/menugen.php?sprog=uk 
 
==500

 

Cheers

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: January-20-16 07:34
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 120, Issue 70

 

 

 

Thank you Rick. This is the Service manual I have on board. Nice to have an 
electric copy now too.

 

You wouldn't have a parts manual?

 

 

 

--

Message: 6
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2016 17:16:58 -0400
From: Rick Taillieu 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler
Message-ID: <008b01d152fe$bb55aca0$320105e0$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Brian,



Try this link.



http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/0





Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.










 

-- 

Brian Fry

S/V La Neige

1993 C 37/40XL

HdG Maryland

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11445 - Release Date: 01/20/16

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Oil Cooler

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Brian,

 

Try this link.

 

http://boatinfo.no/lib/yanmar/manuals/3jh2.html#/0

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: January-19-16 12:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Oil Cooler

 

Thanks Josh, my engine looks nothing like the one in the links you sent.

I guess what I am really looking for is a Parts manual for a 3JH2E. 

 

I have traced out the flow. The Raw water leaves the pump and goes into the 
inlet of the oil cooler on the port  (rear) side of the engine, through the 
cooler to the starboard side, up a u-shaped fitting into a hose that flows back 
to the port side at the top of the engine where it enters the Raw water/Fresh 
water heat exchanger.

 

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4522/11439 - Release Date: 01/19/16

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Check the bilge pump lines and the pump itself.

The discharge line from the pump should loop up under the aft end of the stbd 
seat before it drops down to the transom fitting.

The rubber flaps in the pump could be worn too, does it take a lot of pumps to 
prime the pump?

Checking the hoses on all the through-hulls is a good idea too.

There should be four for sure(cockpit X2, sink and lazerette drain) or five if 
you have a water intake for your head.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-14-15 12:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Sailnomad
Subject: Stus-List Water Ingress ??

 

When tabasco (c with an outboard) is on the dock, there is absolutely no 
water coming in. When I am out, even motoring, I get some water in, maybe 2 
quarts an hour, even in calm seas.
I am in the process of replacing some rusty keel washers, but the nuts seem to 
be tight and I have no "smile".

I have a hard time believing that so much water is seeping through the keel 
bolts.
Does anybody have any other logical explanation besides pressure created on the 
leading edge of the keel  ? I have no stuffing box.

Ahmet
S/V Waterdancer 43 Irwin MKII I
S/V Tabasco C 25
Winthrop, MA, USA

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4483/11179 - Release Date: 12/14/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Bob,

 

Why do you want to change it, just because it’s old?

If there’s nothing wrong with it, leave it alone.

A few years ago I changed out the wire in my outhaul to Dynema.

The Dynema snapped during a jibe around the last mark in heavy air race.

The breaking strength of the line should have been able to lift the boat but it 
couldn’t handle the shock load of the jibe.

I swapped it back to the old wire for the rest of the regatta and never looked 
back.

If the rope part is getting ratty just replace that part.

 

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-12-15 12:45
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer
Subject: Stus-List Replacing outhaul and exit block on Landfall 38

 

In preparation for my new mainsail, I would like to replace the outhaul and the 
exit block--the outhaul is wire + rope and it's 32 years old.  I would like to 
change it to all rope, using some high-strength, low- stretch rope which is yet 
to be selected.

 

I' m having a problem finding a suitable exit block--the outhaul runs 
internally through the boom and comes out thru an exit plate (as rope) just 
before a small winch.  The existing exit block is intended for wire and doesn't 
look big enough to handle 5/16" or 3/8" rope.

 

Has anyone else done this and where did you get an exit block that fits?  Or 
did you enlarge the opening in the boom for a Schaefer exit block?

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD

1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230

email: dainyr...@icloud.com 

blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame


On Dec 12, 2015, at 6:43 AM, Sailnomad via CnC-List  
wrote:

I sold my Catalina 36 eight years ago. I am still on their list and contribute.
Ahmet 

On Dec 9, 2015 3:15 PM, "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"  wrote:

Sad to hear that you are moving on from Mojito Tim but glad to hear it is going 
to a good home.  Their website makes the Courageous Sailing program look like a 
great endeavor

 

Hope all is well with life after sailing (or at least life after C)

 

Mike

Persistence

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim Goodyear 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2015 3:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tim Goodyear
Subject: Stus-List C 35-3 items for sale - and thank you!

 

My C 35-3, Mojito will be living up in Boston with Courageous Sailing (a 
great organization if you ever come across them) next year as part of their 
boat donation program.  Courageous has been kind to me and my crew over the 
years (including rescuing us after a de-masting in a prior boat and teaching 
many friends' families how to sail).

 

It has been great meeting people on this list - either virtually or (much 
better) in-person at a couple of the NE Rendezvous's.  This list is an amazing 
resource for C owners and for boat maintenance advice in general - I hope you 
don't mind if I lurk for a while...  Thank you for the advice, assistance and 
encouragement!

 

There are a couple of items (listed below) that won't be going with the boat 
and I will put up for sale separately - please let me know if you're interested 
off list and we can review price.

 

Thank you,

 

Tim

 

Tim Goodyear

Mojito

C 35-3

Branford, CT

*   Boom tent boat cover - Miller Marine Canvas Mustang 9oz cloth (Nov 
2012).  Designed for use with the mast stepped (using the boom and spinnaker 
poles for support) with a flap over the toe rail.  Used only one winter 
(because the mast was not stepped the other winters for various reasons).  
Courageous store all their boats with mast out, so they have no need.  Original 
cost $2,500.
*   #2 Genoa - North Sails 145% 3DL 14,700 DPI (May 2015) in sausage bag.  
Used ~3 hours  Cut for 35/3 Furlex Furler, but with no UV cover.  Original cost 
$5,505.
*   S1.5 Spinnaker (0.5oz) - North Sails S1.5 Airx 600N Red / White in 
North launcher bag (June 2015).  Used ~2 hours.  Original cost $4,050.


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4483/11165 - Release Date: 12/12/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including 

Re: Stus-List windows

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Glen,

 

Your 35 MK1 should have large aluminum framed windows and it’s very easy to 
replace the panes.

Remove the rubber gasket locking the Plexiglas pane into the frame and pop the 
window out from the inside.

Take the panes to a glass shop and have new panes made of your desired material 
(plexi or lexan, clear or tinted).

Go to Holland Marine and get a roll of butyl tape and the correct size rubber 
gasket from them (bring a piece of the old gasket with you).

Clean up the frames and follow the directions you get from Holland Marine.

I’ve done this on two boats and it’s very easy to carry out.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-05-15 16:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie
Subject: Re: Stus-List windows

 

Any recommendations for windows for a c 35 mk I. I'm located in toronto.‎ 
Thanks everyone.

 

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.


From: allen via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:58 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: allen

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

Gary,

 

After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked with 
some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of weeks, 
then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can see a 
little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

 

Allen

 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM

To: C   List 

Cc: Gary Russell   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

Allen, 

 If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

 


Glen Eddie


Tel: 416-777-5357


Fax: 1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.



On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

 

Allen Miles

s/v Septima

C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Andrew Burton   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

I have templates for the C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just a 
set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.

Andy

C 40

Peregrine

 

On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  

 

I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one out 
there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal with 
cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, I 
have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:

 

#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too hard 
and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a different 
expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing the stuff 
is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a sharp 
blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was rip up 
the gel coat.

 

#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood (or 
other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in 

Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

Yes, it looks like yours is hull # 5, built in 1973.  I’ve seen hull # 1 in the 
Toronto, Ontario area and I believe it was #2 or #3 at Prince Edward Yacht Club 
in Picton, Ontario.

Hull #1 has teak trim around the cut-out on the transom for the tiller where 
mine has/had a plastic trim piece.

The steel backing plates probably were original.  

It looks like your floor liner was cut out at the aft end so the entire bilge 
was accessible, mine has two separate cut-outs for the back two bolts.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-24-15 19:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

 

Yes, I will. 

Once I am on the dry and have all the right materials. The purpose of this was 
to see the condition of the washers, nuts, bolts and bilge.

At least now I know that the source of all the rust were 3 ferrous backing 
plates that were used, probably because of ignorance or sloppyness I don't 
think they are original. This is a salvage boat.

I don't have one picture but there are 3 cutouts.  

Rear Section <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/rearbilge.jpg> 

Forward  <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/frontbilge.jpg>  Section

 

Looks like the plaque is saying this is a 1973 25 hull number 5 

 

Btw am I hull number 5 ? <http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/plaque.jpg> 

 

I guess I will save money on putting up the sail number :)

 

 Ahmet

Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA

1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"

1973 C 25 Hull 5 "Tabasco" 

 

 

 

On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Ahmet,

 

Get rid of the galvanized washers now, they will corrode. The rest of your 
repair sounds fine.

If you look at the pictures of my bilge you will see that under the nuts are a 
stack-up of stainless washers.

The number of washers will depend on if you have a deep socket or not.

You don’t need lock washers, that’s what tightening to the proper torque is 
for, the 1½ inch nuts on the three large 1 inch keel studs are torqued to 350 
ft/pounds.

The ¾ inch nut on the smaller ½ inch stud at the front is torqued to 80 
ft/pounds.  Do not over-torque this one, it will break. 

 

On a different note, in your picture 11 it looks like the floor liner has been 
cut out quite a lot to access the bilge.

I’d like to see a picture of the whole area to compare it to the picture of 
mine.

 

Cheers

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6176 / Virus Database: 4460/11058 - Release Date: 11/24/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Update: Re: Keel attachment issues on a C 25

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

That about sums it up :) You are 
right they are probably original.

 

I will lay up as much fiberglass as I can without removing the nut, to add 
width, trying to make the sump area as clean as Rick T. 's pictures show. 

I need to use a roller and go slow in order to make sure not to have voids. 
Maybe I'll put a 1 inch oak plywood vertically into that area and then 
epoxy/glass it in. I am not very familiar with fiberglass work, so I'll pick 
some other's brains here. filling in an area of 4 by 7 by 2 inches with 
epoxy/fillers  and glass may be too much.

 

 

Rick Taillieu : Thank you very much for the pictures. Your boat looks very 
clean even though it is almost as old as mine. 

I guess they must have had different people with different skills laying up 
these boats. I am starting to get convinced that Tabasco came out of the 
factory this way, and they just simply screwed up the sump. On my (picture 3) 
<http://www.boatjuggler.com/images/pic3.jpg>  you can see at the bottom part 
the round area with a hole in it where the glass just seems to have cured not 
going across, but simply folded back. 

 

I should dremel that irregularity off or better, fill it in with thickened 
epoxy and lay glass in such a way that it covers the bolt and is nice and 
smooth as yours is. That one is the first picture in your series. The one with 
two washers, so your sump starts a few inches after the bolt. Also based on 
what Gary posted about his 38 C I think this boat has been this way all her 
life. 

So I am not worried about that one as much but just for my piece of mind, I'll 
fix that to at least cover the keel bolt and give the rest of the washer some 
footing.

Maybe the guy who did my bilge did your hull on the aft end of the keel sump  
afterwards :)

 

 

Rick Brass: Thanks for the info. Tabasco has a anchor locker with a hawse pipe 
on the bow. Perhaps someone added a little bulkhead to make an anchor locker 
out of the front part of the v-berth. I am pretty sure my surviving washer and 
the nuts are galvanized. Not sure about the bolts. 

The rusted out washers could have been 42 year old stainless washers. 
Interestingly the nuts and washers are identical to what we use at my club to 
hold parts of the docks together, so I have plenty of supplies. 

 

I will order a deep socket from McMaster-Carr and try to see if I can loosen 
the nut  without using an impact wrench. I do not feel comfortable subjecting 
the bilge/keel to the vibration of an impact wrench. I will have the other 
washers handy, quickly replace them and tighten the bolt back up. I am not sure 
about the torque, I will go to 100 ft-lbs until I find out exactly what 
material the bolts and nuts are. 

Does that sound about right ? Does anybody have the actual number. 

 

Again, thanks everybody for all the information

 

Ahmet

Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA

1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 3:20 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Ahmet,

 

I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here, http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/

Let me know if the link works for you.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-07-15 17:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C 25

 

Thank you. I would be interested to see if you have a sump area, i.e a 3 - 4 
inch dropoff in the bilge  which then slopes upwards towards the bow.  I am not 
sure how come that keel-bolt got exposed. 

 

I did a search for Tabasco on the list archives, and did not find any 
references. I bought it from an older gentlemen in Marblehead, MA.

 

He had been sailing her for a while but health issues have been preventing him. 
The boat was neglected to some point. All the wiring was laid up but not 
connected. The stanchions were leaking. 

 

Others have told me that too. Maybe it is a familiar sounding name. 

 

First thing I did is replace the stanchions with the aluminum toerail mounted 
ones and used wooden dowels soaked with 4200 and marinetex to get rid of  all 
holes from he old stanctions. So now the cabin is pretty dry. The hatch is 
leaking a bit but I think that is just the rubber gasket.

 

He lost the rigging last year so she has brand-new rigging, double, brand new 
heavy lifelines and a 4-stroke 2010 Nissan 9.9 hp engine. 

 

Thank You

 

Ahmet

Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA

1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



 


__

Re: Stus-List C 25 headsail size

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

When these boats were designed in the early ‘70s a #1 genoa was a 170 (actually 
around a 163% overlap), a #2 was a low hoist 150 and the working jib was a high 
clew 110.

Now PHRF regions have a 153/155 as a #1 genoa and anything over that carries a 
rating penalty. If you race in an area with consistently light air the penalty 
might be worth it.

My #1 is a UK Tape Drive 153 that I fly up to ~15kts apparent wind. After that 
I switch to a very old Dacron Fogh #2 that is a full hoist ~140 (I never 
actually measured it but it’s smaller than a 150).

I can carry this sail into the mid 20s if I tuck in a reef. Despite being old 
this sail has won me a lot of races.  I also use this sail for daysailing as 
it’s easy to handle if I sheet it outside the lifelines.

Above 25 apparent it’s the working jib and I also have an Etchells jib to use 
if it’s really blowing.

As was said before, the boat will heel to 20-25 deg then get really stiff. 

 

If you have any specific questions on setting up your boat or would like some 
tricks that I’ve learnt over the years email me direct and I’ll answer them. 
(depending on your mail program, if you hit reply all instead of reply, my 
email address should be listed too)

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-09-15 13:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Stus-List C 25 headsail size

 

Next year I will race Tabasco a bit. I have 2 headsails, one seems to be a 105, 
the other a 130.

I like the 105, because it is easy to tack, and strong enough to have an 
enjoyable sail if I am lazy and it is blowing over 10.

The sail in Sailboatdata looks like a pretty big sail, like a 150.

 

What is the largest reasonable headsail you guys on the 25 use, without having 
to deal with excessive tenderness ?

Thank You

Ahmet

S/V Tabasco

1973 C 25Boston, MA

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10971 - Release Date: 11/09/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Soda Blasting

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

I had mine done in Ontario, I don’t know who does it out here.

Maybe call around to some mobile sand blasting companies and see if they do 
soda or dry ice blasting.

>From what I’ve heard, dry ice blasting leaves a lot less mess to clean up.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: November-09-15 09:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Stus-List Soda Blasting

 

Rick

 

Do you still know who does Soda blasting in this area?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 07, 2015 7:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C 25

 

Ahmet,

 

Mine does have a sump towards the aft end of where the keel bolts are, that’s 
where I have the intake for the bilge pump routed.

Not so funny story: 

C had good days and bad days when they were laying up the hulls. I bought my 
boat in the summer of ’99, in the spring of 2000 I had the bottom soda blasted.

While cleaning up the bottom before putting in the Interprotect, I was opening 
up some small imperfections with a dremel tool.

I hit one small mark at the aft end of the keel sump and all of a sudden the 
antifreeze that I  had put in the bulge for the winter, started flowing out.

One it stopped I had a good look from outside and inside the bilge. It looked 
like there was a large air bubble in the layup of the hull and the only thing 
that was keeping the boat afloat for the 25 years before I bought the boat was 
the layer of gelcoat. Needless to say that area was filled with epoxy and cut 
up fibreglass mat until I was satisfied that it was full and well sealed.

It is important to torque your keel bolts from time to time (mine are due now), 
when I torqued them for the first time I got at least one full turn on all of 
the nuts, some were more.

I moved my stanchions to the toerail too, much more room to pass through there 
and it’s easier to sheet the genoa inboard as well.

The 25 is a great boat to sail, you can single-hand it really easily and if you 
want to race it will sail to its rating.

If you have any questions on setting up the boat just give me a shout, I’m 
happy to help.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10971 - Release Date: 11/09/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C 25 MkI

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

At the very bottom of the Photo Album’s Brochures page under New Additions, are 
a couple pdf files of 25 mk1 info.

I might have something in my archives too, I’ll look through them tonight.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-07-15 23:31
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Stus-List C 25 MkI

 

Hi Rick,

I'm curious about the 25 model.  I looked thru the brochures on the 
cncphotoalbum.com site and did not find the MkI '73 or '75 C 25 listed.  The 
brochures appear to be 80's vintage.  I think our local yard has MkI 25?  It 
has a cabin top that fairs into the foredeck, no bump, and a very swept back 
keel.

 

Anybody have the brochure for this model?

  

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Rick Brass" 
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 9:44:50 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C 25

 

>From the pictures you sent, it appears that the fiberglass layup is virtually 
>identical to the layup in my early 1975 model. I have the same raised area of 
>fiberglass under one of the keel bolts, and also the same strip if roving 
>athwart the bilge and extending up under the cockpit sole.

 

I am interested in the irregular hole in the sole that you show in photo #1. My 
bilge is accessed through a long rectangular opening in the sole, and the edges 
of the sole are recessed to take a rectangular teak board. So all of my keel 
bolts are accessible through the same rectangular opening.

 

When I bought Belle in May, 1994 she had a C smile – though I did not know 
what that was at the time. On someone’s recommendation I opened up the crack, 
laid in sealant (maybe 5200?), faired over the sealant, and finished painting 
the bottom. When I hauled out that October, the smile was back.

 

Belle also has rust in the bilge. My keel nuts were stainless, but there were 
what was left of galvanized washers under the nuts. I can’t quite determine if 
your keel nuts are stainless or galvanized – but the keel bolts and nuts on 
Belle were obviously clean stainless and still pretty shiny as I recall.

 

Anyway, over the first winter I discovered a precursor to this list and learned 
about the C smile and proper keel bolt torque. I had some new stainless 
backing plates made from stainless (3/16” or ¼” thick) and before the spring 
launch I replaced all the rusted backing plates with stainless (one bolt at a 
time) and properly torqued the keel bolts. Then re-faired the smile and applied 
bottom paint. I re-torqued the bolts during a haul out in about 2003 or 2004 
(they did not seem to have loosened any in the intervening 8 or 9 years). When 
Belle was last hauled a couple of years ago, there was still no evidence of a 
smile.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

  _  

No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.6173 / Virus Database: 4457/10964 - Release Date: 11/07/15

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C 25

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ahmet,

 

I uploaded some pictures of my bilge here, http://postimg.org/gallery/3eg9rsocy/

Let me know if the link works for you.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: November-07-15 17:01
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel attachment issues on a C 25

 

Thank you. I would be interested to see if you have a sump area, i.e a 3 - 4 
inch dropoff in the bilge  which then slopes upwards towards the bow.  I am not 
sure how come that keel-bolt got exposed. 

 

I did a search for Tabasco on the list archives, and did not find any 
references. I bought it from an older gentlemen in Marblehead, MA.

 

He had been sailing her for a while but health issues have been preventing him. 
The boat was neglected to some point. All the wiring was laid up but not 
connected. The stanchions were leaking. 

 

Others have told me that too. Maybe it is a familiar sounding name. 

 

First thing I did is replace the stanchions with the aluminum toerail mounted 
ones and used wooden dowels soaked with 4200 and marinetex to get rid of  all 
holes from he old stanctions. So now the cabin is pretty dry. The hatch is 
leaking a bit but I think that is just the rubber gasket.

 

He lost the rigging last year so she has brand-new rigging, double, brand new 
heavy lifelines and a 4-stroke 2010 Nissan 9.9 hp engine. 

 

Thank You

 

Ahmet

Winthrop Yacht Club / Constitution Marina, Boston, MA

1990 Irwin 43 CC "Waterdancer"

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com