Re: Stus-List Freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Happy 2017 to all!

Turns out my paranoia was not all in vain.  Shore power was off for 3 days
with temps into the 19F range. The marina suffered a 1 in 20 year "Arctic
outflow" storm with a direct hit of winds > 50kn. Word on the dock is that
a BC Ferries captain clocked 80kn winds nearby.  My boat was in one of the
most vulnerable spots.  She fared better than many in more sheltered slips
(who suffered torn sails, snapped dock lines, shore power in the water,
broken fenders, etc.).  The dock finger my boat was tied to broke loose but
my boat sustained no damage as far as I can tell (aside from some popped
fenders and a bit of hull paint). Can't say the same about the downwind
boat...

Knock on teak.

Cheers,
  Jeremy


On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 1:40 PM, Jeremy Ralph 
wrote:

> Thanks to all for the feedback on freeze proofing.
>
> Patrick - I also run a heater and an Ecoseb desiccant dehumidifier (which
> is awesome!).  Last year I didn't do anything with antifreeze, just the
> heaters, and everything was alright.  This year the freeze is a lot colder
> though.  I do worry about power outages, but maybe I'm paranoid from
> reading stories on the interwebs of the power going out in a storm and
> engines freezing.
>
> On Dec 13, 2016, at 11:43 AM, Patrick Davin  wrote:
>
> I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a
> marine electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting).
> Plus visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for
> winter projects. And sailing about 1x/month.
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Here in Denver we get 50-degree temperature swings in a day. Thursday high: 64 
(and sunny and calm) in mid-afternoon. Friday low: 14 (and snowing and blowing) 
after dark. Saturday forecast: high of 7 at noon, low of -9 by midnight. That's 
a 73-degree swing in two days. 

Incidentally I recently read 
https://www.amazon.com/Soon-Heard-Roaring-Wind-Natural/dp/0316410608, more or 
less a history of weather forecasting. It's written by a newbie sailor and 
biologist from the University of Alaska, who bought a boat and sailed it from 
Galveston to Guatemala. So each chapter is a mix of weather forecasting 
history, and voyage log. Informative and entertaining; it kept me engaged. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2016 5:54:15 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing 



Winter in eastern NC is really strange this year. Last night was 18F. Today was 
33F. Tomorrow is 60. Sunday is 78. And by mid-week next week it is supposed to 
be in the 40s. 



I suppose both sides on the issue of climate change will find evidence in there 
somewhere. 



I just wish it would hang around closer to our long term average (60F) so I 
could go sailing. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2016 2:55 PM 
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing 




We got down to 25 degrees with a ton of wind. Cabin heat is set on about 50 
degrees on the 500 watt setting and the lowest cabin temp I saw was 38. I can 
click here and see my cabin temps from work or my phone: 




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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Winter in eastern NC is really strange this year. Last night was 18F. Today was 
33F. Tomorrow is 60. Sunday is 78. And by mid-week next week it is supposed to 
be in the 40s. 

 

I suppose both sides on the issue of climate change will find evidence in there 
somewhere.

 

I just wish it would hang around closer to our long term average (60F) so I 
could go sailing.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2016 2:55 PM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

We got down to 25 degrees with a ton of wind. Cabin heat is set on about 50 
degrees on the 500 watt setting and the lowest cabin temp I saw was 38. I can 
click here and see my cabin temps from work or my phone:

 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

-24F is only… oh, wait… -31C.  Okay, so maybe not better for the Canadians.

Maybe the cold will be gone by the time you visit.  Or maybe not.  Bring warm 
clothes.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 16, 2016, at 2:00 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 24 below!!!
> I'm not so sure I want to visit my wife's folks in MPLS afterall this winter.
> Do you have to heat your words up on a frying pan to hear each other talk???
> Can't get the docklines out of the cockpit now; they're frozen.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri 
> CYC 30-1
> In STL at a nice 32 with 15 above for sunday's high.

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

24 below!!!I'm not so sure I want to visit my wife's folks in MPLS afterall 
this winter.Do you have to heat your words up on a frying pan to hear each 
other talk???Can't get the docklines out of the cockpit now; they're 
frozen.RonWild Cheri CYC 30-1In STL at a nice 32 with 15 above for sunday's 
high.


  From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
 Sent: Friday, December 16, 2016 12:06 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing
   
Mine consists of winterizing the boat, then laying in LOTS of rum for the 
winter…   :^)
Nice storm coming today/tonight; snow starts before rush hour, with several 
inches forecast overnight; then temps drop to a low on Saturday of -24F, with 
winds gusting over 20…  Sunday the temps get back up to about -5F…   I might 
need more rum...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 16, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:
My winterizing consists of plugging in the "flying saucer" heater, the Caframo 
Stor-Dry. 

No problems in decades of doing that. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

We got down to 25 degrees with a ton of wind. Cabin heat is set on about 50 
degrees on the 500 watt setting and the lowest cabin temp I saw was 38. I can 
click here and see my cabin temps from work or my phone:
http://aprs.fi/info/a/N3HGB-5

One of these days I am going to get shore power voltage telemetry on there. 
Temps are supposed to be in the mid 50s at least by Sunday, so I can go mess 
around with my pond-pump deicer scheme and get the dinghy around to my ramp and 
take it home.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 16, 2016 13:07
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

Mine consists of winterizing the boat, then laying in LOTS of rum for the 
winter…   :^)

Nice storm coming today/tonight; snow starts before rush hour, with several 
inches forecast overnight; then temps drop to a low on Saturday of -24F, with 
winds gusting over 20…  Sunday the temps get back up to about -5F…   I might 
need more rum...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 16, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

My winterizing consists of plugging in the "flying saucer" heater, the Caframo 
Stor-Dry.
No problems in decades of doing that.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mine consists of winterizing the boat, then laying in LOTS of rum for the 
winter…   :^)

Nice storm coming today/tonight; snow starts before rush hour, with several 
inches forecast overnight; then temps drop to a low on Saturday of -24F, with 
winds gusting over 20…  Sunday the temps get back up to about -5F…   I might 
need more rum...

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 16, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My winterizing consists of plugging in the "flying saucer" heater, the 
> Caframo Stor-Dry. 
> 
> No problems in decades of doing that. 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

My winterizing consists of plugging in the "flying saucer" heater, the
Caframo Stor-Dry.

No problems in decades of doing that.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 December 2016 at 14:26, Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I usually just pull the thermostat in the Fall as part of winterizing -
> means the antifreeze circulates right away.
> Raw water cooled in freshwater, so its a good time to pull the leaves and
> pine needles out of it anyway...I keep thinking i'll install a filter
>
> Nate
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> on the hard by the St. Croix River, WI
>
> On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to
>> not expand enough
>> to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may
>> break plastic before
>> the rated temperature.
>>
>> Michael Brown
>> Windburn
>> C 30-1
>>
>>
>> From: RANDY 
>>
>> Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let
>> my A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze
>> through it. I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before
>> two gallons of pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was
>> coming out the exhaust before shutting it down. Will find out next spring
>> whether my winterizing was good enough, and will be more thorough next
>> fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - we've already had a sub-zero night, and
>> the lake is iced over enough to hold my stupid dogs up on the ice.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I usually just pull the thermostat in the Fall as part of winterizing -
means the antifreeze circulates right away.
Raw water cooled in freshwater, so its a good time to pull the leaves and
pine needles out of it anyway...I keep thinking i'll install a filter

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard by the St. Croix River, WI

On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not
> expand enough
> to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break
> plastic before
> the rated temperature.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
>
>
> From: RANDY 
>
> Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let
> my A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze
> through it. I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before
> two gallons of pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was
> coming out the exhaust before shutting it down. Will find out next spring
> whether my winterizing was good enough, and will be more thorough next
> fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - we've already had a sub-zero night, and
> the lake is iced over enough to hold my stupid dogs up on the ice.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that. I have  installed a bypass a couple of years ago. Works perfectly.

Marek



Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.


 Original message 
From: Mitchell's via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 12/14/16 11:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: CNC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mitchell's <themitche...@yahoo.ca>
Subject: Stus-List Freeze Proofing

Something not mentioned yet: the RV community uses a water heater bypass kit so 
you don't fill up your water heater with plumbing antifreeze. You simply drain 
it. Works great!

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C 37+

Sent from my mobile device.

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version has a 2QM15. Raw water cooled. The GM’s came later.

Gary

Waiting for the freeze in Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

 

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com <mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 

 

Thanks,

Jeremy 

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net 
<mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > wrote:

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List Freeze proofing and is 2QM20H original

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick - good to hear some AF will get in even if thermostat isn't
open.  My mechanic is the one who recommended the technique I've used.  He
told me to pour the AF in until I smelled it out of the exhaust after
warming up the engine.

I'm 100% positive the engine is a Y2QM20H although not positive it's
original, I just assume that.  The boat is a 78 C  I should check
the C manual which is on the boat to see if it mentions the engine.


On Dec 14, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited
amount of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to
the thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots
while the engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the
block so long as the engine is running.



Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C 29-1. It has
the original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the
QM was a replacement for the GM.
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not 
expand enough
to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break 
plastic before
the rated temperature.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



From: RANDY  

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let my A4 
warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. I 
did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of pink 
anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down. Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - 
we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold my 
stupid dogs up on the ice.  
 
Cheers,  
Randy Stafford  
S/V Grenadine  
C 30-1 #7  
Ken Caryl, CO  
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Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Something not mentioned yet: the RV community uses a water heater bypass kit so 
you don't fill up your water heater with plumbing antifreeze. You simply drain 
it. Works great! 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C 37+

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When my A4 was RWC, I put a hose on the exhaust and ran it into the same bucket 
the intake hose was in. I had about 3 gallons of antifreeze going around and 
around until it got nice and hot. Now I am FWC it is easier.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 10:57
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear.  I've been worried that I didn't let my 
A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. 
 I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of 
pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down.  Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall.  Meanwhile it's too late now 
- we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold 
my stupid dogs up on the ice.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net<mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 8:34:39 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com<mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass 
<rickbr...@earthlink.net<mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>> wrote:
Jeremy;

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let my A4 
warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. I 
did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of pink 
anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down. Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - 
we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold my 
stupid dogs up on the ice. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Rick Brass" <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 8:34:39 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing 



There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running. 



Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM. 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com> 
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing 




Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 





Thanks, 


Jeremy 





Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass < rickbr...@earthlink.net > wrote: 






Jeremy; 



Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block. 



If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 





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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

 

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 

 

Thanks,

Jeremy 



Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net 
<mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > wrote:

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Russ. Sounds like I'm over thinking it and things will be fine.  I'm
pretty sure the Baileys won't freeze and will make a nice special coffee
when next I'm at the boat :)

On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:


Hi Jeremy,

I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems.

I'm just across the pond from you in the area I call Pacific South West
(Canada)... I would call Alaska the real PNW. But then again marketing is
not something anywhere near my realm of expertise. However, keeping a boat
in our waters all year 'round is something I've done for 40 years.

Most of the time I keep the venerable "cube heater" on minimum for the
winter. It keeps the boat interior near 40 F degrees (I'm seem to be stuck
in imperial measures too). The period of a power any power outage so far
has not allowed for any negative freezing condition inside the boat, even
though the marina ice can get 1/2" thick (imperial measure again :). As
Patrick points out there is a large moderating influence by the boat
sitting in 45 F degree water.

Don't worry. Be happy. And make yourself an nice "boat coffee" the next
time you check on her.

   Cheers, Russ
   Sweet 35 mk-1, East Vancouver Island
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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick for explaining. I wish I had a freshwater cooled engine. What
I've got is a raw water cooled engine though. There is no heat exchanger or
coolant. Salt water flows thu

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:20 PM, Rick Rohwer  wrote:

Hi Jeremy,

The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by
the thermostat.  Coolant is approx 50%  glycol to reduce the freeze point
of the coolant (-25F or more).  When the engine hits the set temp (190F),
the thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exchanger to
enter the engine.  No raw water should enter the engine block.

Think of the heat exchanger as a radiator.

The amount of raw  (salt or fresh) water is controlled by the speed and
capacity of the raw pump, controlled by the rpm of the engine.  It is belt
driven.  It also continues on past the heat exchange phase to be dumped in
to the path of the hot exhaust, thereby protecting the muffler and exhaust
system from melting.

This system accomplishes the same thing as you are describing but changes
the freeze protection plans.  For freeze protection, I think most folk feed
glycol solution into the raw water pump until they see it exit the exhaust
and then shut it down.

My boat sits in 45-43F seawater virtually all year.  I don’t sweat the
freeze cycle on the engine!  It would have to get really cold for a very
long time.

I would bet the 2QM20 is a mighty warrior of an engine.   I have the
FEARSOME 3HM35F!

Happy sailing!


Rick
Paikea- 37+
Tacoma, WA
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy, 

The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by the 
thermostat.  Coolant is approx 50%  glycol to reduce the freeze point of the 
coolant (-25F or more).  When the engine hits the set temp (190F), the 
thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exchanger to enter the 
engine.  No raw water should enter the engine block.  

Think of the heat exchanger as a radiator.  

The amount of raw  (salt or fresh) water is controlled by the speed and 
capacity of the raw pump, controlled by the rpm of the engine.  It is belt 
driven.  It also continues on past the heat exchange phase to be dumped in to 
the path of the hot exhaust, thereby protecting the muffler and exhaust system 
from melting.  

This system accomplishes the same thing as you are describing but changes the 
freeze protection plans.  For freeze protection, I think most folk feed glycol 
solution into the raw water pump until they see it exit the exhaust and then 
shut it down.  

My boat sits in 45-43F seawater virtually all year.  I don’t sweat the freeze 
cycle on the engine!  It would have to get really cold for a very long time.  

I would bet the 2QM20 is a mighty warrior of an engine.   I have the FEARSOME 
3HM35F!  

Happy sailing!


Rick
Paikea- 37+
Tacoma, WA

On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:50 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
wrote:
> 
> Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
> understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
> block when warm enough. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Jeremy 
>> Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass > > wrote:
>> 
>> Jeremy;
>>  
>> Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
>> older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea 
>> strainer never sees the inside of your engine block.
>>  
>> If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
>> number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the 
>> heat exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, 
>> just like your car.
>>  
>> Rick Brass
>> Washington, NC
>>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through
the block
when warm enough.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass  wrote:

Jeremy;



Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea
strainer never sees the inside of your engine block.



If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the
model number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer,
the heat exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in
it, just like your car.



Rick Brass

Washington, NC
___

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Jeremy,

I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems.

I'm just across the pond from you in the area I 
call Pacific South West (Canada)... I would call 
Alaska the real PNW. But then again marketing is 
not something anywhere near my realm of 
expertise. However, keeping a boat in our waters 
all year 'round is something I've done for 40 years.


Most of the time I keep the venerable "cube 
heater" on minimum for the winter. It keeps the 
boat interior near 40 F degrees (I'm seem to be 
stuck in imperial measures too). The period of a 
power any power outage so far has not allowed for 
any negative freezing condition inside the boat, 
even though the marina ice can get 1/2" thick 
(imperial measure again :). As Patrick points out 
there is a large moderating influence by the boat 
sitting in 45 F degree water.


Don't worry. Be happy. And make yourself an nice 
"boat coffee" the next time you check on her.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, East Vancouver Island

At 10:17 AM 13/12/2016, you wrote:
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver)Â we're 
getting freezing weather now, which rarely 
happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic 
heater running in their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?


Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load 
for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. 
Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze into the sea 
strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.   Â


2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run 
RV antifreeze through the pump and faucet.


3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into 
empty holding tank.  Run macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines. Â


4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Thanks for making that comment. Having lived in Portland for a while, my 
impression is that the winters in Portland and Seattle are about like it is 
here in North Carolina. And I thought Vancouver could not be significantly 
worse. Winterizing for the Northeast US and most of Canada is a whole different 
ball game than Oregon, Washington, and the Carolinas.

 

We’re having a really cold winter so far. The weathermen on TV are going nuts. 
We had a low of 24 F last weekend, and are looking for 22 in the next couple of 
days. Record lows for this time of year. But the day after it dropped to 24 
overnight was almost 50 the next day. Followed by a low of 27 and a high of 60. 
The river is still above 50 F.  And the coldest night only had temperatures 
below 32F for something like 10 hours. 

 

For boats in the water the internal temps are well above freezing and most of 
us only worry about winterizing the drinking water system, and that’s primarily 
to protect the small plastic parts and the pump. Personally I’ve just put a 
couple of gallons of cheap vodka in the water tanks and pumped it through the 
system every winter for the past 17 years.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC- 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; jeremy.ra...@gmail.com
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine 
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus visiting 
the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter projects. And 
sailing about 1x/month. 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

 

We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.   

 

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com 
<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.

Stay warm!

 

Joel

 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[William Walker via CnC-List]

don't forget foot pump at the galley sink if you have one.. winterizing the 
pressure water system won't get to it.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, December 13, 2016 Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  
wrote:

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?


Here is what I did last week to prep:


1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.


2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.


3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  


4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge


What do others do?  Any tips?


Thanks,

  Jeremy

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Stus-List Freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks to all for the feedback on freeze proofing.

Patrick - I also run a heater and an Ecoseb desiccant dehumidifier (which
is awesome!).  Last year I didn't do anything with antifreeze, just the
heaters, and everything was alright.  This year the freeze is a lot colder
though.  I do worry about power outages, but maybe I'm paranoid from
reading stories on the interwebs of the power going out in a storm and
engines freezing.

On Dec 13, 2016, at 11:43 AM, Patrick Davin  wrote:

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[randy via CnC-List]

+1 

 

Essentially my program, so far has been fine, (knock on wood) here on the east 
side of the Cascades in the Columbia Gorge.  Water the boat sits in acts as a 
big heat sink.  Air temps in the twenties (F) are common for days, the marina 
ice has frozen over a couple of years enough to walk on, teens occasionally, 
single digits rare, but has happened.  Only additions I do, are to place foam 
blocks in the cowl vents and wrap with a plastic bag, keeps the wind from 
blowing in; place an old blanket over top and back of engine; leave open the 
under galley sink cupboard and remove the engine access panel; I open any 
access to the water system, block head and under head sink open; and remove the 
companionway steps as I’m leaving (which one want’s to remember when visiting 
boat at night!)  I just lift them and set them off to the side as I’m leaving 
at the bridge deck.

 

 

randy

Tamanawas

29-II

Hood River, OR

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Patrick 
Davin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; jeremy.ra...@gmail.com
Cc: Patrick Davin <jda...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine 
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus visiting 
the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter projects. And 
sailing about 1x/month. 

 

Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the water temperature that keeps your 
boat's bilge warmer generally. In Seattle the water temp is 50F. I imagine it's 
between 45-50F in Vancouver. You can check US PNW water temps here: 

https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/dsdt/cwtg/npac.html

Vancouver (47F): 
http://www.seatemperature.org/north-america/canada/vancouver.htm

 

Do you have a themometer is your boat cabin? Move it around various places and 
I bet you'll find the bilge is typically at least 10F higher than the outdoor 
temperature (measure in early morning if possible). In Seattle our nighttime 
lows are hitting 26 F. So with 26 F outside air temp + 45-50F water temp, we 
don't hit 32F inside the boat.

 

The cockpit shower hose is a different matter. That's not near the bilge, so 
it's subject to freezing temps (but hasn't had any issues yet).

 

-Patrick

Seattle, WA

 

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 10:46 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

-- Forwarded message --
From: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com <mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: 
Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2016 10:17:01 -0800
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing
Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

 

Here is what I did last week to prep:

 

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

 

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

 

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  

 

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

 

What do others do?  Any tips?

 

Thanks,

  Jeremy

 

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Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[colin binkley via CnC-List]

Perhaps I missed a part, but is there like a Bowman heat exchanger involved? 
Does the engine carry its own coolant. If so it is imperative to check coolant 
quantity and degree protection. IMHO
Colin
S/V Lindsey Layne
71 C 40C #3
On the hard Western Lake Erie

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

You never get that cold in Vancouver. We hit regularly –25 C - -30 C, at least 
for part of the winter. But I would not sleep at night if I used only 5 l of AF 
in the engine. Purists take a sample out of the exhaust and check it with 
refractometer. I did it once and I know that after a full bucket (5 gal/25 l), 
my engine is well winterised. As I said, that extra $5-$10 (for an extra jug or 
two) is a very cheap insurance.

Marek

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 14:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing


We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...
On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If I may, two comments:

- be careful about that plug in the muffler. I heard that they don’t seal well 
once removed

- be careful with pink AF in the water heater. Supposedly it gels once heated. 
So make sure that you drain it all before you run the engine.

Marek

From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 15:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

This year I found a plug in the bottom front of the muffler, drained that and 
the strainer before I pumped antifreeze (Rv) through, thought was that the 
antifreeze would be less diluted and it would require less fluid. It took one 
and a half jugs to get pink stuff in the pail out back. I use the shop vac on 
all the plumbing lines before I add antifreeze as well. The one thing that 
concerns me is the water heater, I'm never sure I get enough water out, but I 
make sure I get some antifreeze back into it. So far, so good.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

This year I found a plug in the bottom front of the muffler, drained that and 
the strainer before I pumped antifreeze (Rv) through, thought was that the 
antifreeze would be less diluted and it would require less fluid. It took one 
and a half jugs to get pink stuff in the pail out back. I use the shop vac on 
all the plumbing lines before I add antifreeze as well. The one thing that 
concerns me is the water heater, I'm never sure I get enough water out, but I 
make sure I get some antifreeze back into it. So far, so good.
Brad
"Pulse" 1985 33 MKII
Lake Huron

Anything worth doing requires sails!~~~_/)~~~
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My marina requires you to either have an ice-eater or rent one for $200 from 
them. My $500+ dollar ice-eater finally died after many years, so I am trying a 
new strategy - pond pumps. I got 2 of them, 1000 GPH each, off Amazon for $120 
total. I am going to hang one under the bow and one under the stern. I am 
betting they will use way less electricity besides for costing 80% less for 
both of them. I got this idea from a forum for duck blind owners. If we get a 
real cold month and I have the cabin heat turned up, that plus the ice-eater 
can be an $80 electric bill!

Another hint: Calcium chloride icemelt from the hardware store is WAY cheaper 
than those little buckets sold as dehumidifiers. I poured some out in a bowl 
last winter and it worked great. I have enough left over for several more years.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

I take a different strategy here in Seattle - no winterizing, just a marine
electric heater on power=2, temp = lowest (anti freeze setting). Plus
visiting the boat 1-2 times per week, which I'm doing anyway for winter
projects. And sailing about 1x/month.

Vancouver is a little colder, but it's the water temperature that keeps
your boat's bilge warmer generally. In Seattle the water temp is 50F. I
imagine it's between 45-50F in Vancouver. You can check US PNW water temps
here:
https://www.nodc.noaa.gov/dsdt/cwtg/npac.html
Vancouver (47F):
http://www.seatemperature.org/north-america/canada/vancouver.htm

Do you have a themometer is your boat cabin? Move it around various places
and I bet you'll find the bilge is typically at least 10F higher than the
outdoor temperature (measure in early morning if possible). In Seattle our
nighttime lows are hitting 26 F. So with 26 F outside air temp + 45-50F
water temp, we don't hit 32F inside the boat.

The cockpit shower hose is a different matter. That's not near the bilge,
so it's subject to freezing temps (but hasn't had any issues yet).

-Patrick
Seattle, WA

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 10:46 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Dec 2016 10:17:01 -0800
> Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
> which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
> their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
>
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
>
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
>
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through
> the pump and faucet.
>
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.
>
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
>
> What do others do?  Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When I had a RWC engine I ran the exhaust into the bucket and circulated the 
same antifreeze around and around until it got nice and hot.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 14:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph <jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing


We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it 
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I 
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the 
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes that 
the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...
On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson 
<joel.aron...@gmail.com<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or muffler.  
As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

We poured it into the sea strainer with the engine running and pumping it
through the system.  Poured about 5L in until it came out the exhaust (I
think).  I do have concern though if the thermostat was routing it into the
block.  I did warm up the engine first for ~20min under load with hopes
that the thermostat would route the water to the block.

Based on what Markek is suggesting, I may not have used enough AF...

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Joel Aronson  wrote:

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or
muffler.  As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sounds like what I do to winterize around here… btw, the temp is all the way up 
to +7F right now…   :^(

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 13, 2016, at 12:17 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
> rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
> boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
> 
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
> 
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV 
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
> 
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
> and faucet.
> 
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  
> 
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
> 
> What do others do?  Any tips?
> 
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I think you got it.  The only additional thought is that if you can use regular 
antifreeze in any of the the listed applications (obviously not in the potable 
water system) without harming the environment, it is reportedly better for your 
pumps to do so.  Sounds like you’re still in the water, so you’re probably 
stuck with RV stuff all around. 

From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 1:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out? 

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.  

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy



___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Adding AF to the sea strainer is not going to winterize the block or
muffler.  As Marek suggested, you need several bottles.
Stay warm!

Joel

On Tue, Dec 13, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jeremy,
>
> we do winterising every fall
>
> - run AF through the engine. There are many options, I use a bucket in the
> cockpit and a long hose that I attach to the fresh water hose taken off the
> cooling water seacock (after the seacock is closed). You will probably need
> about 15 l (3 jugs) as a minimum. I use a full Home Depot bucket (I think
> it is 5 gal). It is a cheap insurance for the extra $10. This should
> winterise the engine, the strainer (good to remove water from it before you
> start) and the exhaust (water lift muffler). Since you are in the water,
> you won’t be able to catch it; please be aware that all AF is toxic to
> aquatic life. Fortunately, it gets diluted very quickly.
>
> - if you want to be sure, blow your fresh water lines with air. I take a
> small air compressor to the boat. I have a length of hose with a fitting
> that can get attached to the water hose going out of the pump and blow all
> lines (one at a time). Some people use a vacuum cleaner on blow. For that
> you want to buy an attachment (Canadian Tire or any RV store– around $5) –
> one side is a standard tire valve, on the other a garden hose threaded
> connector. In fact, I blow the water, run the AF through the pump and then
> blow the lines again.
>
> - for the head, close the seacock and take the intake hose at put it into
> a bucket of AF and pump until you see pure AF coming into the bowl. If you
> pour the AF into the bowl and pump it out, you are not protecting the
> intake side.
>
> - if you have a shower, pour AF into the sump
>
> - if you have a cooler (ice box) drain, pour some AF into that drain and
> pump it out
>
> Here, we cover, at least, the cockpit. You want to avoid snow build up.
>
> Also you may find problems with any seacocks. You should keep them closed
> for safety, but if you do, you may end up with a frozen water above it.
> This is especially true with the cockpit drains. We keep them all open, but
> we are on the hard.
>
> Good luck
>
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
> (about 30 cm (1 ft.) of snow on the ground)
>
>
>
> *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 13, 2016 13:18
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph
> *Subject:* Stus-List freeze proofing
>
> Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
> which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
> their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?
>
> Here is what I did last week to prep:
>
> 1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
> Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
> antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.
>
> 2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the
> pump and faucet.
>
> 3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
> macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.
>
> 4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge
>
> What do others do?  Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

we do winterising every fall

- run AF through the engine. There are many options, I use a bucket in the 
cockpit and a long hose that I attach to the fresh water hose taken off the 
cooling water seacock (after the seacock is closed). You will probably need 
about 15 l (3 jugs) as a minimum. I use a full Home Depot bucket (I think it is 
5 gal). It is a cheap insurance for the extra $10. This should winterise the 
engine, the strainer (good to remove water from it before you start) and the 
exhaust (water lift muffler). Since you are in the water, you won’t be able to 
catch it; please be aware that all AF is toxic to aquatic life. Fortunately, it 
gets diluted very quickly.

- if you want to be sure, blow your fresh water lines with air. I take a small 
air compressor to the boat. I have a length of hose with a fitting that can get 
attached to the water hose going out of the pump and blow all lines (one at a 
time). Some people use a vacuum cleaner on blow. For that you want to buy an 
attachment (Canadian Tire or any RV store– around $5) – one side is a standard 
tire valve, on the other a garden hose threaded connector. In fact, I blow the 
water, run the AF through the pump and then blow the lines again.

- for the head, close the seacock and take the intake hose at put it into a 
bucket of AF and pump until you see pure AF coming into the bowl. If you pour 
the AF into the bowl and pump it out, you are not protecting the intake side.

- if you have a shower, pour AF into the sump

- if you have a cooler (ice box) drain, pour some AF into that drain and pump 
it out

Here, we cover, at least, the cockpit. You want to avoid snow build up.

Also you may find problems with any seacocks. You should keep them closed for 
safety, but if you do, you may end up with a frozen water above it. This is 
especially true with the cockpit drains. We keep them all open, but we are on 
the hard.

Good luck

Marek
Ottawa, ON
(about 30 cm (1 ft.) of snow on the ground)



From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 13:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now, which 
rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in their 
boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.  Stop 
engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV antifreeze 
into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through the pump 
and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run 
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Here in the Pacific NW (Vancouver) we're getting freezing weather now,
which rarely happens.  Many people keep a small ceramic heater running in
their boats, but what if the shore power goes out?

Here is what I did last week to prep:

1. Run 2QM20 raw water cooled engine under load for 20min to warm it up.
Stop engine.  Close seacock. Open sea strainer. Start engine. Pour RV
antifreeze into the sea strainer.  Stop engine.  Close sea strainer.

2. Drain fresh water holding tank system.  Run RV antifreeze through
the pump and faucet.

3. Put RV antifreeze in the head and pump into empty holding tank.  Run
macerator enough to get antifreeze in lines.

4. Put RV antifreeze in the bilge

What do others do?  Any tips?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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