Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread David Cutter
To avoid the joint in the middle, I've used the all-copper ladderline, ie 
not the copper coated steel variety, it's a lot smaller and lighter, I think 
it is supposed to be 450ohm (correct me if I'm wrong) it's about 10mm wide, 
light grey.  I like the fishing swivel idea attached to the ring in the end 
of a fishing pole.

Not sure now lossy the ribbon cable is on HF, probably similar to zip cord 
which goes way back.

See nice article on the above in March QST.  KR8L shows comparison loss 
compared to lightweight coax feeders and there's not much in it.

David
G3UNA



 Frank,

 I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal
 doublet used actual computer #26
 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

 Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
 lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal
 doublet was.

 If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet,
 use any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and
 feed it with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered
 frequently by N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and
 use either lengths of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I
 use the 300 ohm ladder line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it
 does not stick to tree limbs and if tangled is easy to untangle because
 of the 'slippery' nature of teflon.  The antenna is the same as the
 NorCal doublet, but the wire is different.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Frank MacDonell wrote:
 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks



 
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Re: [Elecraft] multiple Digests

2009-03-07 Thread David Woolley (E.L)
Julius Fazekas wrote:
 Yesterday I was getting dupes of the digests...
 
 Today, I'm getting three of each. Problem with my email provider or on the 
 sending side?
 

You would need to look at the Received headers on the messages to 
allocate blame, and even then you can only really allocate it to the 
interface between two systems.

Email is designed to fail towards duplication.  There is a stage at the 
end of sending the text where the receiver may have successfully 
received it but the sender hasn't had confirmation.  For a large email, 
and an overloaded system, that might last long enough for the sender to 
assume a failure and resend.

-- 
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio
List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issueSolved problem

2009-03-07 Thread David Woolley (E.L)
Mike-WE0H wrote:

 shame the regulator manufacturer sells a 8v regulator that is barely at 
 the minimum end of it's spec's, but it is good that the K2 can be 
 modified to work with the lower voltage regulator if need be.

It's a shame that the K2 doesn't work when its components are all in 
tolerance!  There should be no need for a fix.

-- 
David Woolley
The Elecraft list is a forum for the discussion of topics related to 
Elecraft products and more general topics related ham radio
List Guidelines http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_list_guidelines.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Control board U4 8v regulator issueSolved problem

2009-03-07 Thread Mike-WE0H
Oh mine was working excellent last night for it's first time listening 
on the air 40m. Heard South Africa and some South Pacific islands on 40m 
after I peaked the 40m bandpass filter. The only issue I had was that 
regulator  that was a piece of cake to troubleshoot  repair. So far I 
am totally impressed with this kit  it's design, well worth the money 
spent.

Mike
WE0H



David Woolley (E.L) wrote:
 Mike-WE0H wrote:

   
 shame the regulator manufacturer sells a 8v regulator that is barely at 
 the minimum end of it's spec's, but it is good that the K2 can be 
 modified to work with the lower voltage regulator if need be.
 

 It's a shame that the K2 doesn't work when its components are all in 
 tolerance!  There should be no need for a fix.

   
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Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread NG3V
Don,

Is the 300 ohm ladder line you mention actually open or like TV twin lead?


72,

Tom, ng3v

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:16 AM
To: Frank MacDonell
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

Frank,

I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal doublet
used actual computer #26 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal doublet
was. 

If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet, use
any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and feed it
with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered frequently by
N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and use either lengths
of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I use the 300 ohm ladder
line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it does not stick to tree limbs
and if tangled is easy to untangle because of the 'slippery' nature of
teflon.  The antenna is the same as the NorCal doublet, but the wire is
different.

73,
Don W3FPR

Frank MacDonell wrote:
 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal 
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks

   

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[Elecraft] FS: K2/100 complete system

2009-03-07 Thread Craig Miller
K2/100 SN: 4790 with KAT100-1, KSB2, KDSP2, KNB2, K160RX, K60XV.  Complete
with all manuals, cables and spare parts.  Excellent condition, completely
stock (no extra holes) except for CW tuning indicator which can be easily
removed.  I also have a KAT2 with top cover and speaker which I can sell
with the K2 or separately.

If interested please reply off list to K3OOL at yahoo.com and I can send you
pictures and more details.

73,
Craig Miller
K3OOL
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[Elecraft] My K3 died suddenly

2009-03-07 Thread SM6CKU
In a pile up. Touching the keyer and it just died. PSU OK.
What happened? S/N 2066

73 de Ben
www.sm6cku.se
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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 died suddenly

2009-03-07 Thread Robert Naumann
Ben,

I think you need to do some more analysis locally.

73,

Bob W5OV

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of SM6CKU
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 8:21 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] My K3 died suddenly

In a pile up. Touching the keyer and it just died. PSU OK.
What happened? S/N 2066

73 de Ben
www.sm6cku.se
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Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
It is the narrow window line.  The Wireman #562 is what I bought at one
of the hamfests.

73,
Don W3FPR

NG3V wrote:
 Don,

 Is the 300 ohm ladder line you mention actually open or like TV twin lead?


 72,

 Tom, ng3v

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:16 AM
 To: Frank MacDonell
 Cc: Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

 Frank,

 I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal doublet
 used actual computer #26 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

 Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
 lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal doublet
 was. 

 If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet, use
 any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and feed it
 with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered frequently by
 N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and use either lengths
 of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I use the 300 ohm ladder
 line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it does not stick to tree limbs
 and if tangled is easy to untangle because of the 'slippery' nature of
 teflon.  The antenna is the same as the NorCal doublet, but the wire is
 different.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Frank MacDonell wrote:
   
 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal 
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks

   

 
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 
 07:20:00

   

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Re: [Elecraft] My K3 died suddenly

2009-03-07 Thread Darwin, Keith
Is the radio completely dead as if there is now power applied?
PSU is generating power, but is it reaching the rig?  Did the power
cable wiggle itself loose?
Is a fuse blown? 

- Keith N1AS -
- SKCC 344c -

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of SM6CKU
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 9:21 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] My K3 died suddenly

In a pile up. Touching the keyer and it just died. PSU OK.
What happened? S/N 2066

73 de Ben
www.sm6cku.se
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[Elecraft] K3 alive again

2009-03-07 Thread SM6CKU
Thanks for all replies and suggestions. I checked everything 
I could and all of a sudden it worked again. Don't ask me 
what I did or did not but I am happy it works again.
It might have been something with the DC cabling but my 
second rig on same power worked all the time.
Never mind, thanks guys, and have a nice weekend

73 de Ben
www.sm6cku.se


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[Elecraft] K3 Relay Noise

2009-03-07 Thread Kenneth Moorman
I am probably am just hearing things, but for some time I have heard what
sounds like a relay switch, just once, in my K3, #1292, while it is powered
off.  Is there anything that would be still powered and busy while the K3
is supposedly OFF that could be doing this?  I have no other equipment in
the area, and my ear is only about 18 from the K3 when I hear it.  Anyone
else hearing this?  This morning when I heard this noise the K3 had not been
powered ON since last night.  I power all my radio equipment with solar
charged batteries, FWIW.

73,

Ken, NU4I

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[Elecraft] PAR END FEDS

2009-03-07 Thread Chuck Pridgen
THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND ANSWERS REGUARDING THE PAR END FEDS.

I WAS TOLD BY PAR TO NOT USE A TUNER,JUST TO TRIM THE EXCESS.

IF ANYONE HAS AN EXPERENCE USING A TUNER WITH ONE OF THE ENDFEDS,ID LIKE TO 
KNOW YOUR RESULTS.


THIS IS AT A 5 WATT LEVEL I WILL BE USING.

 HAS ANYONE TUNED ONE WITH A TUNER USING 100WATTS?

THANKS CHUCK PRIDGEN,N4UED
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[Elecraft] K2 : Is this ok for AGC threshold??

2009-03-07 Thread Fred Bennett N9TA
   Hi Gang

Construction on my 3rd K2 is coming right along..BUTI have a 
question: I'm at page 48 of the manual where I am going through the 
first power-up checks. I can't get the AGC Threshold voltage up to 3.8 
Vdc as suggested. My new K2 tops out around 3.62 as measured with a 
Square D WMM-23 digital multimeter. Is this something I should worry about??

 73deFred  N9TA 
  K2 serial# 6705 under construction
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR END FEDS

2009-03-07 Thread David Yarnes
Chuck,

You don't say which model you have.  The QRP version 
maybe???  If so, you don't want to try running 100 watts 
through it!

In any event, you shouldn't need a tuner unless you are 
trying to use the antenna on a band it's not designed for. 
I suspect PAR's warning was perhaps because the matching 
network may not be stout enough to withstand a really bad 
mismatch while you are trying to tune it.  Perhaps you can 
get away with it if you drop your power way down while 
tuning, but I'd be wary of doing that.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Pridgen cprid...@embarqmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 8:17 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] PAR END FEDS


 THANKS EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP AND ANSWERS REGUARDING THE 
 PAR END FEDS.

 I WAS TOLD BY PAR TO NOT USE A TUNER,JUST TO TRIM THE 
 EXCESS.

 IF ANYONE HAS AN EXPERENCE USING A TUNER WITH ONE OF THE 
 ENDFEDS,ID LIKE TO KNOW YOUR RESULTS.


 THIS IS AT A 5 WATT LEVEL I WILL BE USING.

 HAS ANYONE TUNED ONE WITH A TUNER USING 100WATTS?

 THANKS CHUCK PRIDGEN,N4UED
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 : Is this ok for AGC threshold??

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

It is all relative.  If the 8 volt regulator output is on the lower side 
of its spec (it is a 10% tolerance part), then everything will work out 
just fine, set it to the maximum.
Reason - the IF amplifier is the stage controlled by the AGC, *and* it 
is powered by the 8 volt regulator.  When the IF Amp supply voltage is 
reduced, the ACG action begins at a lower voltage point than at higher 
voltages.

Bottom line - if you are able to set the S-meter parameters with the 
lower AGC Threshold voltage, then all is well.  If you cannnot adjust 
the S-meter, then a 10k to 15k resistor soldered across pins 3 and 4 of 
Control Board RP6 will allow you to adjust the threshold upward.

Yes, a manual errata sheet should be published IMHO.  The 3.8 volts is 
not graven in stone.  There is an implication in the K2 manual that the 
AGC threshold can be optimized later on, but there are no details of how 
to do that - in fact, that optimization is simply reducing the AGC 
Threshold voltage so that receiver noise does not activate the AGC.

73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
Hi Gang

 Construction on my 3rd K2 is coming right along..BUTI have a 
 question: I'm at page 48 of the manual where I am going through the 
 first power-up checks. I can't get the AGC Threshold voltage up to 3.8 
 Vdc as suggested. My new K2 tops out around 3.62 as measured with a 
 Square D WMM-23 digital multimeter. Is this something I should worry about??

  73deFred  N9TA 
   K2 serial# 6705 under construction
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 
 07:20:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 : Is this ok for AGC threshold??

2009-03-07 Thread Fred Bennett N9TA
  Thanks for the quick reply Don !!!

I guess I will continue then.I'd decided to stop further 
construction until I had an answer. Just in case it was something to be 
concerned about.

Goshseems like these components just get smaller and smallerHI HI

   73...de...Fred  N9TA
___


Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Fred,

 It is all relative.  If the 8 volt regulator output is on the lower 
 side of its spec (it is a 10% tolerance part), then everything will 
 work out just fine, set it to the maximum.
 Reason - the IF amplifier is the stage controlled by the AGC, *and* it 
 is powered by the 8 volt regulator.  When the IF Amp supply voltage is 
 reduced, the ACG action begins at a lower voltage point than at higher 
 voltages.

 Bottom line - if you are able to set the S-meter parameters with the 
 lower AGC Threshold voltage, then all is well.  If you cannnot adjust 
 the S-meter, then a 10k to 15k resistor soldered across pins 3 and 4 
 of Control Board RP6 will allow you to adjust the threshold upward.

 Yes, a manual errata sheet should be published IMHO.  The 3.8 volts is 
 not graven in stone.  There is an implication in the K2 manual that 
 the AGC threshold can be optimized later on, but there are no details 
 of how to do that - in fact, that optimization is simply reducing the 
 AGC Threshold voltage so that receiver noise does not activate the AGC.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
Hi Gang

 Construction on my 3rd K2 is coming right along..BUTI have a 
 question: I'm at page 48 of the manual where I am going through the 
 first power-up checks. I can't get the AGC Threshold voltage up to 
 3.8 Vdc as suggested. My new K2 tops out around 3.62 as measured with 
 a Square D WMM-23 digital multimeter. Is this something I should 
 worry about??

  73deFred  N9TA   K2 
 serial# 6705 under construction
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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 
 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 07:20:00

   


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[Elecraft] K3 ATU readout

2009-03-07 Thread Ralph Tyrrell

Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.

Does anyone have the  formula or formulae for using  CT or CA and the L and C 
values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?

Thanks, 
Ty, W1TF, K3 #696

--
Wayne wrote:

Most of the time you'll let the KAT3 automatic antenna tuner do its thing and 
ignore it. It has a wide matching range and saves L-C information per-band and 
per-antenna, so you'll rarely need to re-tune.
 
(We do plan to add multiple stored segments per band, too.)

If you're ever curious about the actual L and C values used in the matching 
network, you can check them using a special setting of the KAT3 menu entry (in 
the CONFIG menu). Just set KAT3 to LCSET, then exit the menu. Next, tap ATU 
TUNE. This will display the present L and C values.

For example, I just matched my K3 on a random wire antenna on 40 meters, went 
into LCSET mode, and saw this when I tapped ATU TUNE:

CA 0.08 nF
L 0.25 uH

The CA means that the capacitance ended up on the antenna side of the
 
L-network. The other possibility is CT, or capacitance on the transmitter 
side. The capacitance is shown in nF (nanofarads) so it can fit into three 
digits on the VFO A display even when the value is over 999 pF. The value 
shown, 0.08 nF, could also be expressed as 80 pF.

Now, suppose you'd like to see what the effect of changing the L and C values 
would be on the match. (Or you're troubleshooting the KAT3.) You can simply 
rotate VFO A to change the C value, and rotate VFO B to change the L value. 
Tapping ANT alternates between CA and Ct. Having made a change, tap ATU 
TUNE again to exit the L-C display. Then hold TUNE to go into transmit mode and 
see the new SWR value.

Manual view/change of LC settings is certainly fun and educational. But it 
could also be used to give me (your overworked firmware guy) feedback about a 
difficult matching situation. I'm always open to fine-tuning the KAT3's 
algorithm. So if you discover -- using LCSET --  that you're able to do better 
than the KAT3 in auto-tune mode, just let me know.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


  
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[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 1000 local, 3630 KHz

2009-03-07 Thread Dave G4AON
The frequency is plus or minus the QRM (usually
down a little from 3630). Start time 1000 hours.

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole









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Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread Frank MacDonell
Thanks Don and all who responded - I am taking your advice and
ordering the wire. I have also ordered a BLT and I am waiting for it
to arrive.

2 Questions - How do you terminate the ladder line with the antenna
line and what are your recommendations for supporting the antenna in
the field. Thanks a lot for your help!
FJM

On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 12:15 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Frank,

 I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal doublet
 used actual computer #26
 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

 Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
 lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal doublet
 was.
 If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet, use
 any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and feed it
 with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered frequently by
 N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and use either lengths
 of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I use the 300 ohm ladder
 line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it does not stick to tree limbs
 and if tangled is easy to untangle because of the 'slippery' nature of
 teflon.  The antenna is the same as the NorCal doublet, but the wire is
 different.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Frank MacDonell wrote:

 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks






-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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[Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up Question

2009-03-07 Thread Corboy-Poteet
I've a question on the pull-up resistor mod for the KIO3 board:  is this 
addition being done to support legacy devices or is it the wave-of-the-future 
(or none of the above)?  If current interface standards don't require the 
pull-up capability and the outlook for the future is the same, I think I will 
take a pass on doing the mod.  Otherwise I shall take the K3 apart again and 
add the resistors (I skipped that mod when doing the K3 upgrades but have 
decided it might be best to be sure).


Mike W5FTD
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 : Is this ok for AGC threshold??

2009-03-07 Thread Mike-WE0H
Hi Fred,

I ran into that regulator issue a couple nights ago. I changed the 8v 
regulator with a used one I had here which brought the 8v line up to 
8.30v. The original 8v regulator put out 7.61v. My AGC pot is a half 
scale right now with the 3.80v level as the manual states. The resistor  
mod takes care of the issue if you don't have a spare regulator laying 
around.

Mike
WE0H



Fred N9TA wrote:
   Thanks for the quick reply Don !!!

 I guess I will continue then.I'd decided to stop further 
 construction until I had an answer. Just in case it was something to be 
 concerned about.

 Goshseems like these components just get smaller and smallerHI HI

73...de...Fred  N9TA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up Question

2009-03-07 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
It is to support a myriad of devices that use ttl levels such as band
decoders that drive antenna switches, bandpass filters, etc. 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Corboy-Poteet
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 10:44 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up Question

I've a question on the pull-up resistor mod for the KIO3 board:  is this
addition being done to support legacy devices or is it the
wave-of-the-future (or none of the above)?  If current interface standards
don't require the pull-up capability and the outlook for the future is the
same, I think I will take a pass on doing the mod.  Otherwise I shall take
the K3 apart again and add the resistors (I skipped that mod when doing the
K3 upgrades but have decided it might be best to be sure).


Mike W5FTD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU readout

2009-03-07 Thread hb9brj


Ralph Tyrrell wrote:
 
 
 Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
 
 Does anyone have the  formula or formulae for using  CT or CA and the L
 and C values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?
 
 
Had the same idea: Using my K3's ATU settings to determine the impedance of
my antenna. The formula is easy. But besides L, CA or CT and the frequency,
it contains the TX output impedance, which probably differs from 50+j0 ohms.
Any opinions?

Markus

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-ATU-readout-tp2441197p2441471.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] NorCal Doublet

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
My feedline is permanently soldered to the radiator wires.  Since my 
field/portable operation is always QRP, the insulators are cut from a 
sheet of 1/4 inch Lexan that I have lying around, but there is no reason 
that plastic from a milk container or similar could not be used instead.

As I said, I have a 25 foot length of feedline permanently affixed to 
mine, and I carry an additional 25 ft. length of feedline for use when 
needed and more convenient.  I use APP connectors to attach the extra 
length and the balanced side of the balun has a short length of feedline 
with an APP on it.

Think about your deployment situations and use whatever works for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

Frank MacDonell wrote:
 Thanks Don and all who responded - I am taking your advice and
 ordering the wire. I have also ordered a BLT and I am waiting for it
 to arrive.

 2 Questions - How do you terminate the ladder line with the antenna
 line and what are your recommendations for supporting the antenna in
 the field. Thanks a lot for your help!
 FJM

 On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 12:15 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
   
 Frank,

 I do not know of a source, but contrary to other posts, the Norcal doublet
 used actual computer #26
 IDS wire (not rotator wire).

 Don't get me wrong, the rotator wire will work, but it will not be as
 lightweight as one constructed of computer flat cable as the NorCal doublet
 was.
 If you want an antenna that will perform just like the NorCal doublet, use
 any kind of wire for the radiator, cut to 22 ft. on each side and feed it
 with 300 ohm ladder line.  I use the #22 teflon wire offered frequently by
 N2GO on the QRP reflector for the radiating element, and use either lengths
 of the same N2GO wire twisted for the feedline or I use the 300 ohm ladder
 line.  The teflon insulation is nice because it does not stick to tree limbs
 and if tangled is easy to untangle because of the 'slippery' nature of
 teflon.  The antenna is the same as the NorCal doublet, but the wire is
 different.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Frank MacDonell wrote:
 
 Does anyone know where one can purchase the wire for the NorCal
 Doublet Antenna (4 strand computer ribbon wire)? Thanks


   



   
 


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 
 07:20:00

   
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[Elecraft] Elecraft marketing!

2009-03-07 Thread Benson
I'm going to the Charlotte (NC) hamfest next weekend and would have 
loved to have been able to wear an Elecraft tee shirt. Maybe with the K4 
introduction?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU readout

2009-03-07 Thread Mike Scott
Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
Does anyone have the formula or formulae for using CT or CA and the L and
C values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?

The K3 tuner looks like an L network with series L and shunt C that is
placed either on the antenna side or transmitter side of the inductor.

When the shunt capacitance is on the antenna side the impedance of the
antenna is higher than 50 ohms. When it is on the transmitter side the
antenna is showing less than 50 ohms.

Right now I show on my K3 CA = 0.16 nF and L = 0.70 uH, I am matched at
frequency of 7.025 MHz.

I now start cheating and use a program called L TUNER at:
http://www.smeter.net/feeding/l-network-terminating-impedance.php

I click on the L TUNER link and run the program (does not require
installation) and choose the topology (series inductor shunt capacitance on
the output or right side, network #1). I would choose network #3 if my
capacitance value was on the transmitter side. 

I then enter the inductance of 0.7 uH, capacitance of 160 pF (convert from
nF shown on K3). Enter generator impedance (K3 transmitter) of 50 Ohms. And
now enter frequency of 7.025 MHz. And the program computes the following
values for the terminating impedance of the network assuming a proper
conjugate match to the 50-Ohms resistive load of the transmitter:

Series Resistance R = 67.9 Ohms

Series Reactance X = -8.8 Ohms


Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
NAQCC 3535
K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Roger
Mike Fatchett,
  OK, but what happens when you use them with devices that 
already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack and early band decoders?
Roger K8RS
   
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
From what I understand the 6 pack would require a band decoder and proper
switching levels to switch the 6 pack.  I do not believe that you can switch
the 6 pack with the levels off any rig.  There needs to be some type of
interface between the switches and the radio.

I would send a note to Array Solutions.  W5OV have been very helpful with my
questions and has a K3.

Mike W0MU 


A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roger
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:04 PM
To: elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

Mike Fatchett,
  OK, but what happens when you use them with devices
that already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack and early band
decoders?
Roger K8RS
   
 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Jack Brindle
The six-pack needs +14 volt drive to enable its relays. Power is  
applied to each antenna relay to be selected. This is usually provided  
by the Six-pack switch or an external decoder/driver such as the  
Elecraft KRC2. The K3 alone will not be able to provide the drive - it  
definitely needs the external band decoder.

Of course we suggest the KRC2 for this function, it performs the  
service quite well.


-Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering
===


On Mar 7, 2009, at 11:10 AM, W0MU Mike Fatchett wrote:

 From what I understand the 6 pack would require a band decoder and  
 proper
 switching levels to switch the 6 pack.  I do not believe that you  
 can switch
 the 6 pack with the levels off any rig.  There needs to be some type  
 of
 interface between the switches and the radio.

 I would send a note to Array Solutions.  W5OV have been very helpful  
 with my
 questions and has a K3.

 Mike W0MU


 A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue  
 you may
 never get over. Ben Franklin
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Roger
 Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 12:04 PM
 To: elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

 Mike Fatchett,
  OK, but what happens when you use them with  
 devices
 that already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack and early  
 band
 decoders?
Roger K8RS


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU readout

2009-03-07 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've not tried it yet, but this program might do it:

http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.radio.amateur.homebrew/2005-
08/msg00101.html

The descriptions says:

Occasionally it may be useful to deduce the value of the terminating
impedance of an L-match network when only the values of the coil (uH) 
and capacitor (pF) and the frequency are known. 

Program L_NETWK does exactly that.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Ralph Tyrrell wrote:
 
 
 Wayne gave us a way to read out what the ATU settings.
 
 Does anyone have the  formula or formulae for using  CT or CA and the L
 and C values to determine the impedance presented to the ATU?
 
 
Had the same idea: Using my K3's ATU settings to determine the impedance of
my antenna. The formula is easy. But besides L, CA or CT and the frequency,
it contains the TX output impedance, which probably differs from 50+j0 ohms.
Any opinions?

Markus

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[Elecraft] Unable to save Quick or any memory

2009-03-07 Thread Duane Reese
I have the beta version installed and now unable to save repeater  
settings or freq. to any of the 100 memories
I am trying to save 6 meter repeater's in my area, when I enter and  
save 00 then 01 , 01 replaces 00 etc.
Please help
Duane
W6ddr
duanere...@mac.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 ATU readout

2009-03-07 Thread Lyle Johnson
Please keep in mind that the L C display tells what is selected in the 
matching network.  There are stray capacitances and inductances on the 
PC board.  If the indicated inductance or capacitance are very low, or 
the matched impedance is highly reactive, these strays may be significant.

Enjoy!

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Roger,

That is where the situation gets 'sticky'.  It all depends on what the 
circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented.  You have two 
pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.

1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal device do not 
match the voltage to the pullup resistors in the K3, there will be a 
continuous flow of current through both pullups on any one line when the 
drivers are at their open, non-conducting state).  If the voltages are 
close to the same value, this may not cause a problem, but if they are 
quite different (say one is 12 volts and the other is 5 volts), that 
could create a big problem.
2) The drivers in the K3 (when at the low level) must carry the current 
provided by both pullup resistors.  Whether that is a problem or not 
depends on the value of the pullup resistors and the current capability 
of the drivers.

In my view of a good design, open collector (or open drain) drivers are 
the only thing to use.  The terminating device can determine what 
voltage is needed for reliable switching at its input and that device 
controls the high level by providing its own pullup resistors.  
Secondly, the pullup values can be sized according to the high level 
input current required by that device and can control its immunity to 
noise by controlling its input conditions.  All is under the control of 
the external device designer.  Unfortunately, much of the ham gear 
available uses bare, open inputs and depends on the driving device to 
provide the voltage and levels it needs at its inputs.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

Roger wrote:
 Mike Fatchett,
   OK, but what happens when you use them with devices 
 that already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack and early band 
 decoders?
 Roger K8RS
   

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[Elecraft] K2: dead on 60m and 40m

2009-03-07 Thread Stephen Prior
I have not used the K2 in some time, and tonight I notice that both 60m and
40m sound dead (all signals are very weak) and I have no power output- I
have not measured with an inline meter but there is nothing on the K2
display.  All other bands seem fine.

I have the KAT2 in CALS mode since I use an external autotuner and I can see
the swr drop as I transmit on bands other than 60 or 40, but I (sometimes)
get a Lo P warning when I hold in the tune button on 60 and 40m.

I wonder if anyone has any bright ideas?  The K2 has sat in its travelling
case for the past several weeks so has not seen any action, except that is,
that I opened up the case to install a new sealed lead acid battery.  I have
just re-opened it and cannot see anything I might have disturbed.

Thanks

Stephen G4SJP




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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Inquery

2009-03-07 Thread Phil and Christina
Hi gang,

The weekly Elecraft SSB net would normally meet tomorrow (Sunday, 3/1/09) at
1800Z.
We start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed.  However, the band is filled wall
to wall with the DX contest.  We can try to give it a go if folks are
interested, but I fear that it will be an exercise in frustration.  Any
feedback - should we try it?  Thank you.

73,

Phil, NS7P


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[Elecraft] [K2] K2 K2ATOBKT Low Battery

2009-03-07 Thread W4HDM

HI,

OK I am just finishing up the A to B mod and somewhere at the end between
Misc control board changes and sidetone Modification or possibly after the
XFILMDKT I am getting Low Battery warning and 000 reading for voltage
when tapping Display. This is with power coming from a power supply and not
the internal battery. 

I did miss a pin count on the sidetone mod and fixed that. (used pin 7
rather than 6) and for the 82-mH inductor, I missed a pin by one as well
(using pin 8 and 10 rather than the proper 7 and 10) and this has been
fixed. 

And it was all going so well!

Thanks in advance!

-
W4HDM-DAMON-K2#473 


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Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: dead on 60m and 40m

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Stephen,

Add a capacitor to your antenna lead and use it to inject signals into 
the K2 (AKA Cheap and Dirty Signal Tracing) first at W1, then at pin 3 
or 5 of J13 (on the K60XV board), then at the cathode end of D6.  The 
first place you hear signals more or less of the proper strength will 
identify the area of difficulty.

If you hear signals at W1, the problem is in the Low Pass Filter
If you first hear signals at the D6 cathode, but they are very weak at 
pin 3 or 5 of the K60XV board, than the problem is either in the 
bandpass filter or on the K60XV board.  In this latter case, there is 
one more step - remove the K60XV and put the leads of a 4.7 pF (up to 10 
pF is OK for this test) into the outer holes of J15 and see if you hear 
normal 40 meter signals - if so, the bandpass filter is OK and the 
problem lies on the K60XV board (or it was not plugged in right).

73,
Don W3FPR

Stephen Prior wrote:
 I have not used the K2 in some time, and tonight I notice that both 60m and
 40m sound dead (all signals are very weak) and I have no power output- I
 have not measured with an inline meter but there is nothing on the K2
 display.  All other bands seem fine.

 I have the KAT2 in CALS mode since I use an external autotuner and I can see
 the swr drop as I transmit on bands other than 60 or 40, but I (sometimes)
 get a Lo P warning when I hold in the tune button on 60 and 40m.

 I wonder if anyone has any bright ideas?  The K2 has sat in its travelling
 case for the past several weeks so has not seen any action, except that is,
 that I opened up the case to install a new sealed lead acid battery.  I have
 just re-opened it and cannot see anything I might have disturbed.

 Thanks

 Stephen G4SJP




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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 
 07:20:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2 K2ATOBKT Low Battery

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Damon,

Well, I haven't heard that problem in a long time, but the solution is easy.
On the top of the Control Board, just to the right of center is a switch 
to change the voltage display from external to internal - you must have 
bumped it in the upgrade process - set it to the INT position and all 
will be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

W4HDM wrote:
 HI,

 OK I am just finishing up the A to B mod and somewhere at the end between
 Misc control board changes and sidetone Modification or possibly after the
 XFILMDKT I am getting Low Battery warning and 000 reading for voltage
 when tapping Display. This is with power coming from a power supply and not
 the internal battery. 

 I did miss a pin count on the sidetone mod and fixed that. (used pin 7
 rather than 6) and for the 82-mH inductor, I missed a pin by one as well
 (using pin 8 and 10 rather than the proper 7 and 10) and this has been
 fixed. 

 And it was all going so well!

 Thanks in advance!

 -
 W4HDM-DAMON-K2#473 
   

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[Elecraft] [K2] RE: K2 K2ATOBKT Low Battery

2009-03-07 Thread W4HDM

BINGO!!  Don thanks . I suppose once I have owned this for a while those
obvious fixes will become ..well, obvious  LOL 

 

 73

Damon 

 

 

From: Don Wilhelm-4 (via Nabble)
[mailto:ml-user+39068-851166...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 5:16 PM
To: W4HDM
Subject: Re: K2 K2ATOBKT Low Battery

 

Damon, 

Well, I haven't heard that problem in a long time, but the solution is easy.

On the top of the Control Board, just to the right of center is a switch 
to change the voltage display from external to internal - you must have 
bumped it in the upgrade process - set it to the INT position and all 
will be well. 

73, 
Don W3FPR 

W4HDM wrote: 


 HI, 
 
 OK I am just finishing up the A to B mod and somewhere at the end between 
 Misc control board changes and sidetone Modification or possibly after the

 XFILMDKT I am getting Low Battery warning and 000 reading for voltage 
 when tapping Display. This is with power coming from a power supply and
not 
 the internal battery. 
 
 I did miss a pin count on the sidetone mod and fixed that. (used pin 7 
 rather than 6) and for the 82-mH inductor, I missed a pin by one as well 
 (using pin 8 and 10 rather than the proper 7 and 10) and this has been 
 fixed. 
 
 And it was all going so well! 
 
 Thanks in advance! 
 
 - 
 W4HDM-DAMON-K2#473 
   
 

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  _  

This email is a reply to your post @
http://n2.nabble.com/-K2--K2-K2ATOBKT-%22Low-Battery%22-tp2442171p2442211.ht
ml
You can reply by email or by visting the link above.

 



-
W4HDM-DAMON-K2#473 


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/-K2--K2-K2ATOBKT-%22Low-Battery%22-tp2442171p2442234.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] Thanks Eric

2009-03-07 Thread Bill Stravinsky
It WAS good reading for a little bit, and I didn't really care one way or the 
other,
as its whatever floats your boat to begin with, it was getting old. And please
nobody get offended. PSE.
 
Bill, K3WJV (QRO most of the time, but QRP is cool too. eenie meenie)
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[Elecraft] Different W1 wattmeter housing

2009-03-07 Thread Ken Kopp
As part of the recent discussion about changing the SWR 
LED's in the W1 to green-yellow-red, I've talked with Dave, 
W8FGU to compare notes.  

Dave is the guy who makes the Plexiglas housings for the 
W1 and AF1 accessories.  See Plexiglas Cases for ...  
at the bottom of the front page of the Elecraft website or 
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net .

Dave responded to my inquiry about a W1 case made from
darker smoked plastic and he's made one for me.  
He's sent me photos and it's on the way. (:-)

I assume Dave would be willing to make more of them 

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net 
  http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5
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[Elecraft] First K1 carrying case shipped

2009-03-07 Thread Ken Kopp
I've just shipped my first K1 carrying case.  It's cute! 
You can see it in photos 47 and 48 on my URL. 
http://tinyurl.com/7lm3m5 

73! 

Rose
elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
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[Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

2009-03-07 Thread JIM DAVIS
I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near accurate, but 
where is that
EXPLAINED IN THE K3 manual?

Jim/nn6ee

PS,
Even Elecraft needs to EXPLAIN more in the manuals because not ALL OF US ARE 
IT GENIUSES!!!

Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

2009-03-07 Thread Bob Cunnings
It's described in the Miscellaneous Setup section under the Time
and Date heading - on page 47 of the K3 Owners Manual.

Bob NW8L

On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 5:11 PM, JIM DAVIS nn...@astound.net wrote:
 I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near accurate, 
 but where is that
 EXPLAINED IN THE K3 manual?

 Jim/nn6ee

 PS,
 Even Elecraft needs to EXPLAIN more in the manuals because not ALL OF US ARE 
 IT GENIUSES!!!

 Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

2009-03-07 Thread S Sacco
Whatever you do:

1) Do NOT look at the K3 Owner's Manual
2) ESPECIALLY, do NOT look at the Contents
3) Really, do NOT look under the Configuration section in Contents
4) If it's the last thing you do, DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES look at the
Miscellaneous Setup line, which would indicate Page 47.
5) If, my some horrible mistake, you actually go to page 47, DO NOT READ the
section where it says:

Time and Date
CONFIG:TIME sets the 24-hour real-time-clock
(RTC). Tap 1 / 2 / 3 to adjust HH/MM/SS using
VFO A. This URL shows UTC as well as all U.S.
time zones: tycho.usno.navy.mil/cgi-bin/timer.pl
CONFIG:DATE MD selects US (MM.DD.YY). or
EU (DD.MM.YY) date format using VFO A.
CONFIG:DATE is used to set the date. Tap 1 / 2 /
3 to adjust MM/DD/YY or DD/MM/YY.


In my older version of the manual, it was found on page 44.

;-)

73,
Steve  NN4X -- in UPPERCASE, 'cause I'm proud of my callsign.
Saint Cloud, Florida


On Sat, Mar 7, 2009 at 7:11 PM, JIM DAVIS nn...@astound.net wrote:

 I'd like to SET the internal clock of the K3 to be somewhere near accurate,
 but where is that
 EXPLAINED IN THE K3 manual?

 Jim/nn6ee

 PS,
 Even Elecraft needs to EXPLAIN more in the manuals because not ALL OF US
 ARE IT GENIUSES!!!

 Jim/nn6ee
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[Elecraft] accurate time

2009-03-07 Thread Oliver Johns
While on the subject of time, where is the oscillator that is used by  
the built-in clock on the K3?  Is it adjustable?  If so, how?  I find  
that the internal clock loses something like half a minute per day.   
I'd like it to do better than that.  Is there a way?

73,
Oliver Johns
W6ODJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Your Opinion: The realities of QRP vs. QRO

2009-03-07 Thread Gary D Krause
Geez, Bill!  Do you actually believe that I think that QRP rules in every 
situation?  I didn't say that.  I guess I shouldn't joke on the reflector.

Gary, N7HTS


On Fri, 6 Mar 2009 09:34:53 -0800 (PST)
  Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:
 
 
 Gary D Krause wrote:
 
 Just as long as we all keep it in perspective and 
 realize that QRP RULES! ;-)
 
 
 But QRP simply does NOT rule everywhere...
 
 ...for DXing on the low bands (80/160),
 ...for EME or meteor scatter on VHF,
 ...when propagation is marginal or atmospheric QRN is high,
 ...in emergency communications when a life depends on it.
 
 Sure QRP works well on the HF bands when conditions are good...it's a heck
 of a lot of fun to work across the world with a 2 Watt rig in an Altoids tin
 and a piece of wire...but please don't make blanket statements about QRP
 ruling for many activities...it simply doesn't.  
 
 If QRPers want a REAL challenge, try working DXCC on 160m with 5 Watts.
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV (who loves both)
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Your-Opinion%3A-The-realities-of-QRP-vs.-QRO-tp2429074p2437055.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 
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[Elecraft] K2 #6705 question...missing part.

2009-03-07 Thread Fred Bennett N9TA
Hi Gang

The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
100uH chokes that I'm supposed to havebut no additional
miniature 100uH.

Now here's the question: I've looked at the schematic, and RFC15
feeds power to the Synthesizer (U4). Without power to that chip I
am through with the assembly of #6705 til Elecraft can get me a
RFC15 shipped out. So I used one of the regular 100uH chokes...
keeping the lead lengths as short as humanly possible...and it actually
fit rather well. Is this likely to have any ugly consequences? I will
contact Elecraft about the shortageand I'm sure they'll handle it with
the efficiency we've come to love and respectbut I don't want to
lose this weekends effort! ActuallyIF the installation of the larger
choke gives me no instability issues, is there a reason to bust up a
sexy solder job on the larger one I cabbaged in??

Jeez...this is not NEAR the fun I remember on my previous two K2s!!
I'm having serious regrets that I didn't go with a K3 insteadHI HI
H, wonder if they'd let me trade up  :-))

 73.de.Fred  N9TA

I hope the old Elecraft  MOJO is still  active!!
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is it in the MANUAL???

2009-03-07 Thread SidShusterman
I echo this. I immediately downloaded the manual when I got my K3 in 
January and have saved countless moments of frustration by searching. 
Sometimes the keyword is not what you expect it to be and having the 
ability to electronically thumb through the manual is a huge plus.
73,
Sid K3SX


 Were I you, I'd strongly consider downloading the PDF version of the Manual
 and then use Acrobat reader (free) to SEARCH for words (like CLOCK) within
 the PDF... a really EASY way to find subjects you can't find otherwise in the
 Manual.
 
 73,
 
 Tom Hammond   N0SS
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6705 question...missing part.

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

Check the last part of item 15 in the Errata sheet - that explains that 
the choke for RFC15 may be the same as the other 100 uH chokes.
You *did* transfer all the information in the errata sheet into the 
manual before you started did you not?  If not, that is standard 
operating practice and very important.

I cannot emphasize the importance of the errata sheets enough - they 
contain the latest information and using that information can avoid many 
errors.  In this case, it has only caused a bit of confusion.

73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
 Hi Gang

 The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
 I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
 no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
 onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
 100uH chokes that I'm supposed to havebut no additional
 miniature 100uH.

 Now here's the question: I've looked at the schematic, and RFC15
 feeds power to the Synthesizer (U4). Without power to that chip I
 am through with the assembly of #6705 til Elecraft can get me a
 RFC15 shipped out. So I used one of the regular 100uH chokes...
 keeping the lead lengths as short as humanly possible...and it actually
 fit rather well. Is this likely to have any ugly consequences? I will
 contact Elecraft about the shortageand I'm sure they'll handle it with
 the efficiency we've come to love and respectbut I don't want to
 lose this weekends effort! ActuallyIF the installation of the larger
 choke gives me no instability issues, is there a reason to bust up a
 sexy solder job on the larger one I cabbaged in??

 Jeez...this is not NEAR the fun I remember on my previous two K2s!!
 I'm having serious regrets that I didn't go with a K3 insteadHI HI
 H, wonder if they'd let me trade up  :-))

  73.de.Fred  N9TA

 I hope the old Elecraft  MOJO is still  active!!
   

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6705 question...missing part.

2009-03-07 Thread Fred Bennett N9TA
Hi Don

Actually, I thought I HAD added the errata. I put a note that the COLOR 
of the choke might not be as listedbut if it mentioned the SIZE as 
changed I missed that!! In any case, the parts list a QTY of 4 large 
100uH chokes...which I have. And then it lists the miniature 100uH choke 
which I do NOT have. So I would have thought I'd have found 5 (FIVE) 
large 100uH chokes if I'm supposed to use one of them for RFC15 

  73 de Fred  N9TA
_

Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Fred,

 Check the last part of item 15 in the Errata sheet - that explains 
 that the choke for RFC15 may be the same as the other 100 uH chokes.
 You *did* transfer all the information in the errata sheet into the 
 manual before you started did you not?  If not, that is standard 
 operating practice and very important.

 I cannot emphasize the importance of the errata sheets enough - they 
 contain the latest information and using that information can avoid 
 many errors.  In this case, it has only caused a bit of confusion.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
 Hi Gang

 The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
 I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
 no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
 onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
 100uH chokes that I'm supposed to havebut no additional
 miniature 100uH.

 Now here's the question: I've looked at the schematic, and RFC15
 feeds power to the Synthesizer (U4). Without power to that chip I
 am through with the assembly of #6705 til Elecraft can get me a
 RFC15 shipped out. So I used one of the regular 100uH chokes...
 keeping the lead lengths as short as humanly possible...and it actually
 fit rather well. Is this likely to have any ugly consequences? I will
 contact Elecraft about the shortageand I'm sure they'll handle it 
 with
 the efficiency we've come to love and respectbut I don't want to
 lose this weekends effort! ActuallyIF the installation of the larger
 choke gives me no instability issues, is there a reason to bust up a
 sexy solder job on the larger one I cabbaged in??

 Jeez...this is not NEAR the fun I remember on my previous two K2s!!
 I'm having serious regrets that I didn't go with a K3 insteadHI HI
 H, wonder if they'd let me trade up  :-))

  73.de.Fred  N9TA

 I hope the old Elecraft  MOJO is still  active!!
  


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6705 question...missing part.

2009-03-07 Thread Don Wilhelm
Fred,

Yes, there should be 5 100 uH chokes, if you have only 4, send a note to 
pa...@elecraft.com and request an additional one.  The part number is 
E690004.

73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
 Hi Don

 Actually, I thought I HAD added the errata. I put a note that the COLOR 
 of the choke might not be as listedbut if it mentioned the SIZE as 
 changed I missed that!! In any case, the parts list a QTY of 4 large 
 100uH chokes...which I have. And then it lists the miniature 100uH choke 
 which I do NOT have. So I would have thought I'd have found 5 (FIVE) 
 large 100uH chokes if I'm supposed to use one of them for RFC15 

   73 de Fred  N9TA
 _

 Don Wilhelm wrote:
   
 Fred,

 Check the last part of item 15 in the Errata sheet - that explains 
 that the choke for RFC15 may be the same as the other 100 uH chokes.
 You *did* transfer all the information in the errata sheet into the 
 manual before you started did you not?  If not, that is standard 
 operating practice and very important.

 I cannot emphasize the importance of the errata sheets enough - they 
 contain the latest information and using that information can avoid 
 many errors.  In this case, it has only caused a bit of confusion.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:
 
 Hi Gang

 The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
 I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
 no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
 onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
 100uH chokes that I'm supposed to havebut no additional
 miniature 100uH.

 Now here's the question: I've looked at the schematic, and RFC15
 feeds power to the Synthesizer (U4). Without power to that chip I
 am through with the assembly of #6705 til Elecraft can get me a
 RFC15 shipped out. So I used one of the regular 100uH chokes...
 keeping the lead lengths as short as humanly possible...and it actually
 fit rather well. Is this likely to have any ugly consequences? I will
 contact Elecraft about the shortageand I'm sure they'll handle it 
 with
 the efficiency we've come to love and respectbut I don't want to
 lose this weekends effort! ActuallyIF the installation of the larger
 choke gives me no instability issues, is there a reason to bust up a
 sexy solder job on the larger one I cabbaged in??

 Jeez...this is not NEAR the fun I remember on my previous two K2s!!
 I'm having serious regrets that I didn't go with a K3 insteadHI HI
 H, wonder if they'd let me trade up  :-))

  73.de.Fred  N9TA

 I hope the old Elecraft  MOJO is still  active!!
  
   

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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.8/1987 - Release Date: 03/06/09 
 07:20:00

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 stuck in MCU LD

2009-03-07 Thread W6IZT
 Further to my previous email, I have tried to force a FW download per the
manual, but the K3 does not respond.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of W6IZT
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 9:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 stuck in MCU LD

My k3 started to act up tonight. It was not putting out any power in CW, and
was behaving as if it was in QSK mode even though it was in semi-breaking
mode. The power output was OK in SSB. I tried to reload the FW and now it is
stuck in MCU LD mode and the background light on the display is not lit.

How do I get it out of MCU LD?

Gregg
W6IZT

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6705 question...missing part.

2009-03-07 Thread Fred Bennett N9TA
   Hi Jeff

FANTASTIC !!  Sounds like you are havin' a ball!!

I seriously considered the K3, but I liked the K2 well enough to build a 
third one. I have broke my back since I last put a K2 
together...although I get along fine in everyday life, my hunching over 
the workbench building # 6705 has me sore and grumpy. If  I'd have 
known, I'd have chose the K3. I am looking forward to the finished 
product. Elecraft has a GREAT product,no matter which you choose!

I'll look for your call on the air when I get this beast operational.

   73de.Fred  N9TA
__

Jeff Wandling W7BRS wrote:
 Hi Fred,

 I bought a kit form K3 first. Built it. Had a thrill.  Still enjoy the 
 radio very much.  It now has K3/100/sub-rx/ATU.

 So much I wanted to see how the other half lived and bought a K2, 
 built it, and now know how the other half lives.

 They live good.  Both were fun and pretty cool to build.

 It sparked my interest in building more homebrew projects.

 Good luck with your K2.

 On Sat, 7 Mar 2009, Fred Bennett N9TA wrote:

Hi Gang

 The trials and tribulations with #6705 keep comingHI HI
 I have looked high and lowover and overand I can find
 no RFC15. This is a subminiature 100uH choke that is tacked
 onto the bottom of the RF board. I have the Qty 4 of the regular
 100uH chokes that I'm supposed to havebut no additional
 miniature 100uH.

 Now here's the question: I've looked at the schematic, and RFC15
 feeds power to the Synthesizer (U4). Without power to that chip I
 am through with the assembly of #6705 til Elecraft can get me a
 RFC15 shipped out. So I used one of the regular 100uH chokes...
 keeping the lead lengths as short as humanly possible...and it actually
 fit rather well. Is this likely to have any ugly consequences? I will
 contact Elecraft about the shortageand I'm sure they'll handle it 
 with
 the efficiency we've come to love and respectbut I don't want to
 lose this weekends effort! ActuallyIF the installation of the larger
 choke gives me no instability issues, is there a reason to bust up a
 sexy solder job on the larger one I cabbaged in??

 Jeez...this is not NEAR the fun I remember on my previous two K2s!!
 I'm having serious regrets that I didn't go with a K3 insteadHI HI
 H, wonder if they'd let me trade up  :-))

 73.de.Fred  N9TA

 I hope the old Elecraft  MOJO is still  active!!
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 stuck in MCU LD

2009-03-07 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Unplug the radio for at least a minute then try again to load firmware

Dick, K6KR


Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 7, 2009, at 19:34, W6IZT w6...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Further to my previous email, I have tried to force a FW download  
 per the
 manual, but the K3 does not respond.

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of W6IZT
 Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 9:49 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 stuck in MCU LD

 My k3 started to act up tonight. It was not putting out any power in  
 CW, and
 was behaving as if it was in QSK mode even though it was in semi- 
 breaking
 mode. The power output was OK in SSB. I tried to reload the FW and  
 now it is
 stuck in MCU LD mode and the background light on the display is not  
 lit.

 How do I get it out of MCU LD?

 Gregg
 W6IZT

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[Elecraft] K2 missing part

2009-03-07 Thread Brett Gazdzinski
I think I was scratching my head over the same choke, the manual and updates 
said it could be a different color, but it was the same as other chokes, and 
I was not actually short a choke.

Brett
N2DTS



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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

 Unfortunately, much of the ham gear available uses bare, open 
 inputs and depends on the driving device to provide the voltage 
 and levels it needs at its inputs.

Let's see ... that would apply to the KRC2 in the parallel input 
mode along with the W9XT BCD-10 and the Yaesu Quadra for starters. 
On the other hand the TopTen Systems BD-Y, the original microHAM 
Band Decoder, the Yaesu FL-7000, and Tokyo High Power HL-1.5Kfx, 
have internal pull-up resistors. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 2:56 PM
 To: Roger
 Cc: elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question
 
 
 Roger,
 
 That is where the situation gets 'sticky'.  It all depends on 
 what the 
 circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented.  You have two 
 pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.
 
 1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal 
 device do not 
 match the voltage to the pullup resistors in the K3, there will be a 
 continuous flow of current through both pullups on any one 
 line when the 
 drivers are at their open, non-conducting state).  If the 
 voltages are 
 close to the same value, this may not cause a problem, but if 
 they are 
 quite different (say one is 12 volts and the other is 5 volts), that 
 could create a big problem.
 2) The drivers in the K3 (when at the low level) must carry 
 the current 
 provided by both pullup resistors.  Whether that is a problem or not 
 depends on the value of the pullup resistors and the current 
 capability 
 of the drivers.
 
 In my view of a good design, open collector (or open drain) 
 drivers are 
 the only thing to use.  The terminating device can determine what 
 voltage is needed for reliable switching at its input and that device 
 controls the high level by providing its own pullup resistors.  
 Secondly, the pullup values can be sized according to the high level 
 input current required by that device and can control its immunity to 
 noise by controlling its input conditions.  All is under the 
 control of 
 the external device designer.  Unfortunately, much of the ham gear 
 available uses bare, open inputs and depends on the driving device to 
 provide the voltage and levels it needs at its inputs.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Roger wrote:
  Mike Fatchett,
OK, but what happens when you use 
 them with devices that already work without them,e.g. Array 
 Solutions 6 Pack and early band decoders?
  Roger K8RS

 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2009-03-07 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
   Currently it is cold (26 degrees F) out and snowing.  There is going to be 
three to four inches of new snow by morning but the storm will keep going on 
into Monday at least.  Winter still has its hold up here.  However propagation 
seems to be getting better.  Each morning it is easier to hear during my daily 
sked and the fox hunters are writing about good evening conditions too.  There 
was a real sunspot this week even if it was one of the old season.  A solar 
stream is on its way due midweek so the ionosphere will get fed.  
   From the fox hunt reports of forty meters along with notes I have been 
receiving I am reinstating the forty meter net for us to test tomorrow.  I 
moved the times back to where they have been in previous years.  Hopefully 
conditions will be good enough to make cross continental contacts once again.  
Forty meters allows me more local contacts as well as areas I just cannot seem 
to reach on twenty meters.  This will be a test but I expect it to work and 
will keep trying over the coming weeks.  If necessary we can tweak the schedule 
somewhat but it is nice to have time to make and eat dinner between the two 
nets.  

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Monday 0100z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay warm,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Jack Brindle
The KRC2 has on-chip pullups that handle the task. They are enabled  
whenever the
KRC2 is in BCD input mode. Thus external pullups are NOT needed for  
the KRC2.

The inputs are resistor-protected in case the driving device does  
power the pullups. We spec
those inputs only for the TTL voltage range.

-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


On Mar 7, 2009, at 8:42 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


 Unfortunately, much of the ham gear available uses bare, open
 inputs and depends on the driving device to provide the voltage
 and levels it needs at its inputs.

 Let's see ... that would apply to the KRC2 in the parallel input
 mode along with the W9XT BCD-10 and the Yaesu Quadra for starters.
 On the other hand the TopTen Systems BD-Y, the original microHAM
 Band Decoder, the Yaesu FL-7000, and Tokyo High Power HL-1.5Kfx,
 have internal pull-up resistors.

 73,

   ... Joe, W4TV




 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2009 2:56 PM
 To: Roger
 Cc: elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question


 Roger,

 That is where the situation gets 'sticky'.  It all depends on
 what the
 circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented.  You have two
 pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.

 1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal
 device do not
 match the voltage to the pullup resistors in the K3, there will be a
 continuous flow of current through both pullups on any one
 line when the
 drivers are at their open, non-conducting state).  If the
 voltages are
 close to the same value, this may not cause a problem, but if
 they are
 quite different (say one is 12 volts and the other is 5 volts), that
 could create a big problem.
 2) The drivers in the K3 (when at the low level) must carry
 the current
 provided by both pullup resistors.  Whether that is a problem or not
 depends on the value of the pullup resistors and the current
 capability
 of the drivers.

 In my view of a good design, open collector (or open drain)
 drivers are
 the only thing to use.  The terminating device can determine what
 voltage is needed for reliable switching at its input and that device
 controls the high level by providing its own pullup resistors.
 Secondly, the pullup values can be sized according to the high level
 input current required by that device and can control its immunity to
 noise by controlling its input conditions.  All is under the
 control of
 the external device designer.  Unfortunately, much of the ham gear
 available uses bare, open inputs and depends on the driving device to
 provide the voltage and levels it needs at its inputs.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Roger wrote:
 Mike Fatchett,
  OK, but what happens when you use
 them with devices that already work without them,e.g. Array
 Solutions 6 Pack and early band decoders?
Roger K8RS


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Pull-up question

2009-03-07 Thread Jack Brindle
To add a bit more to Don's last point, there is a situation that few  
folks (especially engineers) realize with respect to interconnect  
drive systems. With todays low-power microcontrollers and digital  
systems, it is very easy to accidentally power another device from the  
driving device. In fact it is a pretty big problem in high- 
availability (usually telco) systems where one board is supposed to be  
powered off,  but is being powered through it's I/O pins from another  
board. The two solutions to this are very similar, basically doing as  
Don suggests, using open-collector (or open-drain) drivers with  
pullups on the receiving board. This eliminates any chance of  
accidental power being applied to the receiving system. The second  
solution is to use opto-isolators to isolate the two boards, but this  
is really the same as #1 in that the receiving board provides the power.

In this case the decoder could actually be powered by the K3 through  
its pullups, although they are limited by the high resistance of the  
pullups. In radios with true TTL drive there is much more power  
available to power a band decoder through its IO lines. We mitigate  
this in the KRC2 by providing series limit resistors which effectively  
limit the problem. It still exists, but at a much lower probability.

So what is the real problem if this happens? The device will not be  
properly powered, so not all circuits will work. Worse, it will try to  
function, attempting to provide drive to other circuits even though  
not enough current is available. In the end, the poor microcontroller  
tends to toast itself.

This is actually a very interesting area of study for systems that has  
emerged in the past several years, and as I noted is of great  
importance in the telco / high availability systems arena.

-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


On Mar 7, 2009, at 11:56 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

 Roger,

 That is where the situation gets 'sticky'.  It all depends on what the
 circuits at the end away from the K3 have implemented.  You have two
 pullup resistors on each line and 2 separate voltage sources.

 1) If the voltage to the pullup resistors in the internal device do  
 not
 match the voltage to the pullup resistors in the K3, there will be a
 continuous flow of current through both pullups on any one line when  
 the
 drivers are at their open, non-conducting state).  If the voltages are
 close to the same value, this may not cause a problem, but if they are
 quite different (say one is 12 volts and the other is 5 volts), that
 could create a big problem.
 2) The drivers in the K3 (when at the low level) must carry the  
 current
 provided by both pullup resistors.  Whether that is a problem or not
 depends on the value of the pullup resistors and the current  
 capability
 of the drivers.

 In my view of a good design, open collector (or open drain) drivers  
 are
 the only thing to use.  The terminating device can determine what
 voltage is needed for reliable switching at its input and that device
 controls the high level by providing its own pullup resistors.
 Secondly, the pullup values can be sized according to the high level
 input current required by that device and can control its immunity to
 noise by controlling its input conditions.  All is under the control  
 of
 the external device designer.  Unfortunately, much of the ham gear
 available uses bare, open inputs and depends on the driving device to
 provide the voltage and levels it needs at its inputs.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Roger wrote:
 Mike Fatchett,
  OK, but what happens when you use them with  
 devices that already work without them,e.g. Array Solutions 6 Pack  
 and early band decoders?
Roger K8RS


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 missing part

2009-03-07 Thread Mike-WE0H
Mine was the same as the others also.

Mike
WE0H



Brett Gazdzinski wrote:
 I think I was scratching my head over the same choke, the manual and updates 
 said it could be a different color, but it was the same as other chokes, and 
 I was not actually short a choke.

 Brett
 N2DTS
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[Elecraft] [K2] S/N 6698 is alive now!!!

2009-03-07 Thread Mike-WE0H
Just got done testing the TX  RX on K2 S/N 6698 and all is working per 
the manual. Now onto the options...

Mike
WE0H
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