Re: [Elecraft] Wish List

[Bernie Gardner]

I made an external switch box with a double pole-double throw switch.  
It seems to work well if you don't mind the extra cable clutter.


Bernie, W1AZ

On 12/14/2019 5:00 AM, Andy McMullin via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Both,

This is my issue too — the switching of cables and volume levels when going 
from mic to digital and back. It’s a pain and I’ve been considering the almost 
unheard of move of swapping the KX3 for another make which has a separate 
digital input.

HOWEVER, I have also been experimenting with feeding my audio into the computer 
rather than the rig and letting it “forward” the sound via the soundcards into 
the KX3. It’s not completely there yet, but it does stop all that swapping of 
cables and the computer can handle the levels. You might be able to get it to 
work.

I hope this helps,

Regards
Andy, G8TQH



On 14 Dec 2019, at 05:14, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Jim,

Yes, switching between digital and SSB modes on the KX3 is troublesome from the 
requirements imposed by the single Mic input jack and the single headphone 
(SPKR) jack.

For convience in switching between Data modes and speech modes, you will have 
to go with the K3 which has independent per mode selections.  The KX3 was not 
designed to have that same capability.
With the KX3, some form of external switching would be required to switch from 
microphone input to your digital inputs.  Attenuators in the PC soundcard to 
KX3 audio input might be requited so you do not have to contend with the 
differences in audio levels.

Such switching was not a part of the KX3 design, and you may wnat to upgrade to 
a K3 for your station instead of the KX3.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/12/2019 8:02 PM, Jim Jones wrote:

Okay, I'm a 2nd owner of a KX3 and I'm still reading and trying
To figure out all the commands and menu options. Yikes. Anyway,
I run a lot of digital, mainly on Mars circuits. What I'm finding
Is that I have to swap plugs for the mic and speaker each time I
Have to go to voice and then back again for digital. What would
Be nice to add to a wish list is to put a 6-pin mini-din connector
On the KX3. This would have a pin for Mic input, Ground, Key line,
And a line out audio level fixed level.
This would allow the end user to take his computer/KX3/Signalink
Out into the field and run digital fairly easy. This is just a
Wish for something in the future. By the way, great rig.
73
Jim
Jim Jones - N9DIX
Waverly, TN
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Re: [Elecraft] New KXPD2 paddle for KX2

[Bernie Gardner]

I've been using my KXPD3 with the KX2 while waiting for the KXOD2 (just 
left the left screw out for now.)  I had the same problem with having to 
press harder on the paddles than I wanted to, especially with only one 
screw attaching it to the radio.  I figured there might be some 
oxidation on the paddle contacts and bought a can of Deoxit D5 from 
Radio Shack.  A couple of sprays and the paddle responds fine now.


Bernie
W1AZ


Ed Muns 
Saturday, July 16, 2016 4:33 PM
The KXPD2 feels really good to me.  It works well with the lightweight 
radio, even with my relatively heavy fist.  There is only one 
adjustment--contact spacing, which is easy with the attached Allen key.

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[Elecraft] FS: K1-2

[Bernie Gardner]

I would like to sell a K1-2 (sn 02472) with 20m and 80m bands.  The 
radio includes the internal antenna tuner and backlight.  It also 
includes the KTS1 wide range tilt stand which helps in positioning the 
radio.  (The stand is no longer available from Elecraft.)


I built the radio several years ago but it has had limited use.  It is 
in excellent condition and works well.


Original cost was $458.  I'm asking $335 (including insured priority 
mail shipping).


Please contact off-list

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ


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[Elecraft] KX3 - KPA100 communication problem

[Bernie Gardner]

I have a KX3 with KPA 100 and PX3.  They had worked fine until yesterday 
when communication between the KX3 and my computer through a KUSB failed 
when the KPA100 is on.  The KX3 talks to the computer fine when the 
amplifier is off, but as soon as I turn it on, either through the KX3 PA 
mode setting or with the switch on the amp, the connection to the 
computer fails.  I can communicate with the amp OK.  Also, the 
connection to the PX3 isn't lost but the speed drops from 38400 to 19200 
with the amp on.  The connections between the amp/radio/px3 are per the 
PX3 manual using Elecraft cables.


Thanks for any suggestions.

Bernie
W1AZ



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - KPA100 communication problem

[Bernie Gardner]

Great guessing Dick!

That worked the first try.  I've really got to start playing with 
programming these things so I learn better how they work.


Thanks to Dick and others who have responded!  Things seem to be working 
fine now.


Bernie
W1AZ

On 6/10/2015 8:16 PM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:

I'm guessing...

Could the amplifier's RS-232 speed somehow have changed?

If you connect the KXPA Utility to the amp, what RS-232 speed does it say
(at the top of the screen)?

If it's not 38,400 bit/s, you might try changing the speed to 38,400 bit/s.

The command needed to do that, using the KXPA Utility's Command Tester, is
^BRP3; (don't enter the quotes, but do enter the caret ^ and semicolon ;

Then go to the Port tab of the KXPA Utility and click test communications.
It should then discover the KXPA100 at 38400 bit/s.

The KXPA100 programming reference is here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K2_Manual_Download_Page.htm#KXPA100 or
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KXPA100%20Amplifier%20Command%20Reference.pdf

The KXPA100 has two RS-232 ports and two RS-232 speeds, one for the Host PC
side (^BRP command) and another for the KX3 side (^BRX command)).

The KX3 side should always be at 38,400.

The PC side should be at 38400 unless you use a host computer program that
requires a slower speed.

When you change speeds with the KXPA Utility, you should go to the Port tab
and click test communications; the Utility will then try all the speeds
and find the one that you've changed to.

73 de Dick, K6KR



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bernie
Gardner
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2015 5:05 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 - KPA100 communication problem

I have a KX3 with KPA 100 and PX3.  They had worked fine until yesterday
when communication between the KX3 and my computer through a KUSB failed
when the KPA100 is on.  The KX3 talks to the computer fine when the
amplifier is off, but as soon as I turn it on, either through the KX3 PA
mode setting or with the switch on the amp, the connection to the computer
fails.  I can communicate with the amp OK.  Also, the connection to the PX3
isn't lost but the speed drops from 38400 to 19200 with the amp on.  The
connections between the amp/radio/px3 are per the
PX3 manual using Elecraft cables.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Bernie
W1AZ



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Re: [Elecraft] kx3 IQ to laptop

[Bernie Gardner]

I have a ~3 year ol Samsung N120 netbook that seems to work fine.  I've 
only just installed HDSDR, but it was able to decode SSB signals OK.  I 
had to swap the left an right channels, but no other problems.  I was 
actually a little surprised as I had never tried to use the mic input 
previously.

Bernie
W1AZ

On 8/22/2012 7:22 PM, Greg wrote:
 Look at the hp slate 500.  I think i read it has a stereo input.
 On Aug 22, 2012 3:26 PM, John Buck k...@arrl.net wrote:

 I gather that no one has found a small laptop with stereo input ( mike
 or line in) that will work with no external adapter except for sound cable.

 No dongles.

 John KH7T
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Photovoltaic (PV) Systems

[Bernie Gardner]

I put pretty much this system on our house a couple of years ago: 4400 
watts from 20 220 Watt panels with Enphase micro-iinverters.  I tend to 
have local noise anyway, but after the system was functioning I tuned to 
an otherwise quiet band and pulled the switch on the photovoltaics.  I 
could here no difference in noise.  My shack is on the second floor with 
only a few feet or less of attic between me and the panels.  I've never 
observed any problems from rfi getting into the photovoltaic system.  
Note that I don't run more than ~100 Watts, so I can't speak to what 
might happen with a full legal limit amp.

The system has worked out very well.  We made about 85% of our total 
electric use the first year, though with the heat this summer I'm afraid 
that number will drop from air conditioner use...

Bernie
W1AZ

On 7/19/2012 8:35 AM, Monty Shultes wrote:
 We're considering a 4KW PV system to save energy costs.  If you have not read 
 Bob Bruninga's August, 2012, QST article Rethinking Electric Power… it is 
 recommended.

 Does anyone here have experience with solar panel/inverter systems (no 
 batteries, selling power back to utility) regarding interference?  Either 
 receive interference from the PV system, or RF getting into the PV system and 
 causing issues.

 The most likely configuration for our system will be micro inverters 
 attached to each of 16 60-cell solar panels.  This minimizes I^2R losses and 
 is extensible.

 Thanks for all replies, on or offline.

 Monty K2DLJ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1, Removing Underside of Board

[Bernie Gardner]

As Don said, you just need to bend the case out a little to clear the keyer 
connector.  You didn't mention it, but I assume you removed the tuning knob. 

I  had a similar failure to turn on a while ago and found that the switch 
wasn't working.   I just sprayed it with contact cleaner and worked it a few 
times and it has been ok since.

Bernie
W1AZ

On Wednesday 31 December 2008, MASH wrote:
 New Year Greeting Everyone:
 It has been a longtime since I buit the KX1.  I turned on the
 radio to find it would not turn on. The lamp goes on.  I am
 trying to find the fuses. They must be on the underside of the
 board. I am having trouble removing the board.  I removed the 3
 screws from the front panel.  This still does not remove the
 board. The keyer connector seems to be sticking. Any advise is
 welcome on this problem.
 Happy New Year,
 Cliff, AC6C
 --
   MASH
   mash4...@mailsent.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Walwart power?

[Bernie Gardner]

I have a Jameco ReliaPro plug in transformer.  It looks pretty much the same 
as the standard wall wart, but is actually a transformer instead of switching 
based supply.  There doesn't seem to be any noise and I think the regulation 
is pretty good. The product number is 170245.  It's rated at 12V/1000ma.  I've 
used it with both a KX1 and a K1.  

Bernie
W1AZ

 On Tuesday 23 December 2008, Burke Jones wrote:
 Could I use a 12V 500ma to power my KX1 when at home?

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 carrying case?

[Bernie Gardner]

I have a Pelican 1400 case which fits well and comes with foam padding which 
is easily shaped to the K2.  Not cheap, but very strong.

Bernie
W1AZ

On Tuesday 11 November 2008, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:
 I'm aware of Rose Kopp's lovely soft cases for the K2. I'm looking for
 something a bit more durable. I have an unused messenger-style bag and am
 hoping to find a rubbermaid/tupperware style of box that is just a bit
 larger than the K2; I'm happy to make a foam liner to protect it inside the
 box, and then slip it all into the messenger bag, along with a key, cables,
 etc.

 I haven't yet found the perfect box, or one that's even close; the K2 is
 apparently not shaped like most things that people want to store!

 Others must have been down this path before - did you find something? Do
 you remember what style/make/model?

 Thanks!

 vy 73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Question

[Bernie Gardner]

I've had my K2 (5705) for a couple of years, with the KSB2.  Alignment is a 
little tricky and it is important that it is done correctly, but I've had no 
problems with it.  I've made a good many contacts (been using CW more) and 
have gotten some complements on the audio, so I think the bad reputation is a 
little unfair.

Bernie
W1AZ

On Friday 07 November 2008, Curt wrote:
 Completed K2 s/n 6424 a few months back, am thinking of adding a KSB2
 adapter kit I own.  I've seen several threads indicating that the SSB
 performance of the K2 with the adapter isn't very good.  Would adding this
 capability be worthwhile, or is leaving the K2 as CW only a better option?

 73, Curt KB5JO

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: anyone using Open Office?

[Bernie Gardner]

Hi Doug,

I use it fairly regularly.  I work at a university and most of my colleagues 
use ms office on windows, but I use linux as much as possible, including 
openoffice for linux.  On it's own, I think it is more than good enough for 
anything you are likely to do.  The word processor reads and writes ms office 
files very well, and for normal documents, I have no problem exchanging with 
other people.  I've also used the spreadsheet and presentation programs with 
little problem in the latest version of oo.  I still use powerpoint for 
presentations at meetings, though I think that is probably not necessary.

I'm sure there are some complicated documents where the conversion between ms 
office and open office is less than perfect, but in general it works very 
well.  And if you don't need microsoft compatibility, I don't really see any 
reason to spend the extra money for ms office.

Note that I haven't used oo on windows much, so I can't vouch for it there, 
but I think it's pretty much the same as the linux version.

Bernie
W1AZ

On Monday 28 July 2008, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 I'm curious about Open Office.  Is anyone using it?  Comments?  Please
 reply directly to me.

 Thanks,
 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: WWV SFI applet for browser window

[Bernie Gardner]

This is the web site for the one I use.  I think it's probably the same one.

http://www.n0hr.com/Propfire.htm

Bernie
W1AZ




On Sunday 08 June 2008, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 Hi all:

 My HD died this past Thursday and I'm just about done getting my stuff
 installed on the new HD.

 One of the neat little things I had picked up somewhere was a little
 applet that gave you the current SFI, A, K index display on a vacant
 portion of the browser.  If you double clicked it, you got more info.

 Anyone know the URL for this?

 de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL CWDX

[Bernie Gardner]

I probably had the fewest contacts, but the location had was nice.  We were on 
a two week vacation on Kauai.  I brought my KX1 and wire antenna.  Friday 
night and Saturday morning I through the wire over a tree at the edge of the 
ocean in front of our condo.  We left Saturday afternoon, so I only worked 
for a total of about an hour.  I had contacts in California and Texas on 40 
Friday evening and one in California Saturday morning.  Heard lots of signals 
Friday but couldn't compete with the JA's.  I was running on the internal 
batteries with about 1.5-2 watts out.

Bernie
W1AZ
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[Elecraft] KX1: no 80 meters with KXB3080

[Bernie Gardner]

I have a KX1 with the KXB3080 installed.  It worked originally, but I've just 
discovered that 80 meters is not available.  There is a B30 option in the 
menu instead of B80.  Turning B30 on enables 30 meters, but not (not 
surprisingly) 80 meters.  I would appreciate a hint on where to look for the 
problem.  It's not obvious (to me at least) how the MCU knows which option is 
installed.

Thanks!

Bernie
W1AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #6155 Different Front Panel Resistance Check value

[Bernie Gardner]

That sounded familiar.  I looked back at my first post to the list which was 
essentially the same question. I got 22.5 instead of your 22.6.  The response 
was that it was ok, and in fact the radio has been fine.  Between component 
variation and voltmeter accuracy I guess the allowable range in the manual 
should be a little larger.

Bernie
W1AZ


On Tuesday 26 June 2007 22:22, Arthur Gunn wrote:
 This reflector is a valuable first stop in troubleshooting.

 Is there any experience with the accuracy of the resistance value stated
 in the manual, for resistance measured at the U1 pin 2 (and same values
 for J1 pins 16  17) to ground as 22.6 kOhm rather than the suggested
 range of 25 - 35 kOhm? There are many paths for the resistance after the
 easily found R6  R7 (values as indicated on resistors) and the
 troubleshooting will be interesting if there is a problem.

 Is the value given on the manual page 28 correct to your measurements?

 Thanks for your experience.
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[Elecraft] Update on KX1 1804

[Bernie Gardner]

Last week I reported a little problem in the power output of this radio.   I 
took Don's advice and checked all relevant components (all seemed ok) and 
then managed to get the correct relationship between 20 and 40 meter outputs 
by adjusting both L1 and L2 as he suggested.  The power still seemed low, but 
I used for a few days.  Last Saturday I installed the 30-80 upgrade.  That 
went ok (but one of the more intense Elecraft experiences!)  Everything seems 
ok now except the power is still low.  I even made a few contacts Sunday in 
Field day using  a wire in a tree in the backyard and the KX1 on it's 
internal batteries.  It really is a great thing and I look forward to taking 
it with me on future trips.  

The only problem is that the power out with a 13.4V supply, as measured with 
the DL1 dummy load, varies from 2.6W on 30m to 1.9W on 20m, so it is clearly 
below specs.  These values are within less than 10% of values from an analog 
Daiwa power meter, so I think they are close to correct.  So the question is, 
should I change the two resistors?  Is the extra watt on external or 1/2W on 
internal power worth the risk of overdriving the output transistor?

Bernie
W1AZ
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[Elecraft] KX1 power question

[Bernie Gardner]

I have just completed KX1 1804.  (Can't quite justify a K3 at this point but 
needed something to supplement the K2...)  It's a great kit and I look 
forward to using it.  There is one problem at the final checking stage.  
Everything seems to work as expected except I can't get the 20m output to be 
less than the 40m output as described in the manual.  When I first checked 
(with a 12v supply) I got about 3.6watts on 20m and 3.1 on 40m.  I adjusted 
the turns on L2 per the manual, but that seems to reduce output on both 
bands.  At the most extreme 'squeeze', I got ~2.7watts on 40m and 3.1 watts 
on 20.

Everything else seems correct.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

Bernie
W1AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 microphone options

[Bernie Gardner]

Greg,

I bought a Handi_Mic for K2 5707 a few months ago.  As Don stated, you need to 
get the electret type, iC version.  I bought the Kenwood cable, wired the K2 
header straight through.  I incorporated a resistor to power the electret 
element in the body of the connector on the cable.  That seemed easier than 
removing the front panel to make the connections on the header.   It's worked 
great with plenty of drive and receives good comments on the air.

Bernie
W1AZ


On Wednesday 02 May 2007 09:24, Greg Derda wrote:
 Hi all,

 I am in the process of building K2 #6001 and need to start thinking
 about a microphone.  I've looked over the Reflector archives, and it
 seems that there are lot of little mods needed for a variety of
 microphones.  The simplest solution would be a MH2, but I don't know
 that I can wait until the June 15 production date.  Question is, can I
 not just jumper my K2 for Kenwood, buy a Heil HM-10 or Handi_Mic, and
 plug-n-play (without any internal K2 mods)?  I will get a Pro Set
 someday, but I just want a decent little microphone to get me started.
 Any suggestions?

 Thanks and 73,
 Greg
 KI4MMM

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Re: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

[Bernie Gardner]

I had a combined work/vacation trip in February that prompted me to take my 
K2/100  along.  I wasn't going to be in a position to put up a dipole, even a 
Buddipole, so I bought a Buddistick.  I hoped it would allow me to make a few 
contacts without adding unduly to my luggage, and it pretty much met my 
expectations.  I didn't have time to operate extensively, but as an example 
of the possibilities I had a ~half hour ssb contact from Santa Fe, NM to 
Hawaii and later in the trip a brief contact from Hawaii to South Africa.  As 
has been mentioned by others, any shortned antenna is a compromise, but as 
long as you recognize that, some interesting contacts can be made.  The 
Buddistick requires some fiddling with the counterpoise to get a good match.  
I just used the internal K2/100 swr indication to tune the antenna.  

The quality of construction and convenience of the packaging of the Buddistick 
are great.  To answer your primary question, I would concur with earlier 
comments that you can get most of the 20 meter cw portion without retuning, 
and comparable bandwidth on other bands, though maybe a bit less on 40.   I 
just mounted the Buddistick on the Balcony of the Condos I was staying in, so 
retuning wasn't too much of a problem.  The Buddipole in dipole mode might be 
more difficult, though possibly with better performance?

Bernie
W1AZ

On Friday 06 April 2007 11:42, Fred (FL) wrote:
 I've been considering the Buddi antenna, for a while
 now.  It seems to be built well.

 One thing I've not been able to establish - is how
 much HF bandwidth does the antenna exhibit - once one
 sets the clips on those 2 coils, and gets resonance?
 I just wonder if a constant readjusting is necessary
 with this antenna, when we move up and down the
 HF bands?   20M CW  then 20M SSB ...

 In other words - if antenna was all set up outside,
 would a HF user be required to continually adjust
 either the clips or the whips - when an operator
 goes from SSB to CW portions of the band, etc.?

 I tried some years back, to make a dipole out of
 Hustler mobile elements, with some adjustable whips
 - but never was able to get it to resonate very
 reliably.   Those were in my no-tuner IC-730 days.

 Those are my questions regarding the Buddi line
 of dipoles and verticals, with coils and clips.

 Fred
 N3CSY, FL

 Very seriously considering one.

 Fred, N3CSY
 FL




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Re: [Elecraft] FCC DATA BASE

[Bernie Gardner]

Is this what you're looking for?

Bernie
w1az

http://wireless2.fcc.gov/UlsApp/UlsSearch/searchLicense.jsp

On Tuesday 03 April 2007 21:28, RC kc5wa wrote:
 Does anyone know the link to check the fcc data base
 for call signs
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RE: [Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils

[Bernie Gardner]

One quick note on the Heil Handi Mic.  You can order it with any of 
the standard Heil elements.  It doesn't have a permanently attached 
cord.  You can order a variety of cords for different radios.   So I 
ordered the Icom element with the Kenwood cord.  Adding the resistor 
to the Kenwood style connector worked fine without having to change 
the Elecraft header.  The Handi Mic is a little smaller than the 
regular mike, but it still seems like a substantial unit and works 
great.  I wanted to take it 'on the road' and the compact size is an advantage.


Bernie
W1AZ

At 10:17 AM 2/15/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Dave,

The stock K2 works best with a high output mic.  The previously available
Elecraft MH2 and MD2 were high output electret mics (the ProSet-K2 was
also).  Unfortunately, the MH2 and MD2 are not currently available.  The
folks at Elecraft are trying to find suitable replacements, but so far no
announcements about that.

In the absence of actual Elecraft microphones, the Icom mics are the ones
that use the electret type element, and a line of those mics is available
from Heil - unfortunately, the Heil iC microphones have the Icom pinout,
so the easiest route is to just use the mic as-is and set the K2 mic
configuration header for Icom.

For those who want an electret mic at a more economical price, take a look
at the Ten Tec 701 mic priced at $28.  It comes with a 4 pin plug that must
be changed to an 8 pin, but the advantage is that you can wire it for the
Elecraft mic pinout, so that when Elecraft finds a good supplier for their
own line of mics, users can just plug in the new mics.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Just curious of why the focus on the ICOM mikes?  When I looked at the
 drawing for the pins on the front panel, it looked like the Kenwood was
 the least complicated to wire.

 A bit off topic, the Heil website does not show the hand mikes anymore.
   Well not a 'real' hand mike that sits and your hand as something
 rugged.  They have these little microphone mikes.  Not something that
 I'm interested in connecting to any of my radios.  If I want a hands
 free setup, I'll use a headset and boom.  Bar that, if I want to talk on
 a mike and listen via the speaker, I want a substantial mike that feels
 like I have something in my hand.

 My current plan is to wire my K2 up for the Kenwood microphone.  My
 other radio is a TS-570.  The assumption on my part, is that I will then
 be able to use my Heil headset on both the Kenwood and the K2.  Is this
 a valid assumption?

 David Wilburn
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone preamp and Heils

[Bernie Gardner]

I recently bought a Heil 'Handi-MIc' with the Icom element (designated
HM-IC).  It works fine without a preamp, but does need the resistor to
bias the electret element.  Rather than removing the front panel and
wiring the jumper, I just opened up the connector shell on the mic and
soldered the resistor between the appropriate pins on the connector.
(I'm away from home at the moment and don't have the diagram to tell
you which pins, but it's pretty easy to figure out.)  The microphone
seems to work very well.  I assume this would work with other Heil mics
with the Icom element.

Bernie
W1AZ


At 09:51 PM 2/14/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi, sorry if this repeats previous information request, but I did a lot of
searching and didn't find anything directly on point (even though there were
several threads on preamps and Heils, etc.)


I downloaded the Microphone Pre-Amp for Heil  schematic on the Elecraft
website.

My questions are:
1.  Does anybody make a PCB for this  project?  I imagine all these parts are
available from Radio Shack  or Mouser?

2.  Does the preamp make the microphones  work really well, or is it just
something that gets you  by?

3.  As far as Heil microphone modules go,  if I build the preamp, and want to
buy the Classic, can I use any module, like  the Pro, HC-5, HC-4, etc., or
should I get the ICOM only module, which I believe  is an electret 
module.  I am

a bit confused about all this.  I asked  Elecraft and they said I should get
the electret module.  Bob Heil said the  Classic was not a good 
choice for the

K2 and he suggested his iCM mic for  ICOM.  Doesn't the iCM mic have the same
electret element  that the Classic with the  IC element has?  If all I needed
was  an electret element, do I need the preamp at all, or does it make the
electret  work even better?

4.  Once I build the preamp, is it  something that I can tuck into the
microphone itself (like a Heil Classic) or  does it go inside the K2 
or do I need to

put it into it's own little  enclosure.

Thanks for your help.  I am a new ham, and  am trying to sort through all
this stuff.
Christ Kacoyannakis
K4CMK

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Re: [Elecraft] Travel advice

[Bernie Gardner]

Thanks John (and others who replied.)

The consensus seems to be that there is no problem with the K2 as carry-on.  I 
was planning to put the power supply in checked baggage, but maybe I'll carry 
it as well after John's experience.

Bernie, W1AZ


On Friday 19 January 2007 02:26, John Webster wrote:
 I am going to be going on a combined work and vacation trip in February,
 including Hawaii . . .
 First, what is the best way to pack the radio, and second, has anyone had
 recent experience with airport security as far as carrying radios and
 associated equipment?  . . .
 
 Thanks for any advice!
 
 Bernie, W1AZ

 Hi Bernie:



 After 16 flights this summer alone, in and out of the USA, Europe, Africa,
 Australia and New Zeeland, I think I can say with some confidence that you
 will not have a problem taking your K2 along.  Your bag may be opened,
 swabbed, and you may be asked a question or two, but it is very unlikely
 that you will have a problem.  In fact, over the last four years and many
 scores of times through security, the worst I have had, was being asked to
 power up the K2 (which involved plugging in the power supply which I also
 carry in the same carry-on bag) in Lusaka, Zambia (9J2)-and that was
 probably more out of sheer rote, or mere curiosity.  They seemed genuinely
 tickled by the thing.

...
.
.
.

 Bottom line-take the K2 (and golf-bag if you can, particularly from
 Hawaii), and have fun!



 73



 John, N6JW
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[Elecraft] Travel advice

[Bernie Gardner]

I am going to be going on a combined work and vacation trip in February, 
including Hawaii during the ARRL CW dx contest, and plan to take my k2 with 
me.  (I'm not expecting in records, but it should be fun to make a few 
contacts.)  This brings up two questions which I know have been discussed 
occasionally in the past but which I would appreciate current thinking on.  
First, what is the best way to pack the radio, and second, has anyone had 
recent experience with airport security as far as carrying radios and 
associated equipment?  I would prefer to carry the K2 with me rather than 
trusting it to the baggage system, but don't want get stuck at the security 
station.

Thanks for any advice!

Bernie, W1AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 backup filter and other settings?

[Bernie Gardner]

Thanks for the input Don.  I have done the spectrogram method of setting the 
filters.  It works well and I didn't have any problem with it.  My question 
about the computer backup was as much curiosity as practical concern, though 
if it could be done it might be helpful at times.  As I understand it (my 
understanding may still be rudimentary) you can adjust the filter settings 
without the frequency probe by just setting the 'BFO control parameter'.  If 
you are using spectrogram, you don't actually need to know the frequency.  
However, if you have done a full reset, you would need to run CAL PLL and 
that does require the probe.  Before I added the amplifier, I just left the 
probe connected, but the manual advises not doing that with the amp 
installed, so my computer backup of filters would not eliminate the necessity 
to open the case which was one of my original motivations for the computer 
backup.

Oh well


Bernie,  W1AZ

On Sunday 07 January 2007 08:16, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Bernie and all,

 I have not tried it through KIO2 control, but I believe one must install
 the frequency counter probe in TP2 to successfully enter the CAL FIL
 values, and since that is true, I find it just as easy to crank up
 Spectrogram, set C22 using WWV or other frequency standard, then run CAL
 PLL and set the CAL FIL values.  The result is a K2 with good frequency
 readout and good filters.

 But then I have done that a goodly number of times and am quite familiar
 with the procedure.  I do recommend that you try it.  One or two times
 through the procedure should familiarize you with it and you should be
 'good to go' foreverafter.

 If you are not familiar with the procedure, check out the K2 Dial
 Calibration article on my website http://w3fpr.qrpradio.com

 73,
 Don W3FPR

  -Original Message-
 
  I also agree with Ron that it is not an overwhelming problem to
  reenter the
  settings, but is a bit time consuming  and potentially error prone.  As I
  look at the programmers reference, it seems that reading the settings is
  pretty straightforward.  You can just go into the normal cal/fil setup
  through KIO2, and send ds; to read the display.  Restoring would be a bit
  trickier, since I don't see any way to directly send numbers.  So
  you would
  have to read the current setting, then send the appropriate
  number of up; or
  dn; commands to get it to the correct value (and probably recheck to make
  sure you are there.)   I haven't seen anyway to directly read/write the
  filter settings without going through the menu, but all of the
  menu functions
  are available by sending the equivalent of button presses.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 backup filter and other settings?

[Bernie Gardner]

I also agree with Ron that it is not an overwhelming problem to reenter the 
settings, but is a bit time consuming  and potentially error prone.  As I 
look at the programmers reference, it seems that reading the settings is 
pretty straightforward.  You can just go into the normal cal/fil setup 
through KIO2, and send ds; to read the display.  Restoring would be a bit 
trickier, since I don't see any way to directly send numbers.  So you would 
have to read the current setting, then send the appropriate number of up; or 
dn; commands to get it to the correct value (and probably recheck to make 
sure you are there.)   I haven't seen anyway to directly read/write the 
filter settings without going through the menu, but all of the menu functions 
are available by sending the equivalent of button presses.

It isn't a major issue; I was just surprised nobody had done it.  I may play 
with it myself a bit but thought I would check if anyone else had tried.  
Thanks for the replies.  

Bernie, W1AZ

On Saturday 06 January 2007 08:25, Dan Barker wrote:
 Ron, you are right it's not difficult to record the pertinent menu
 settings. However, it is quite tedious to reenter them all. A computer
 dump/restore of all settings would be quite helpful. Many users unwilling
 to do a 4-5-6 reset might be encouraged to use that as a debugging step if
 the recovery from it were simplified.

 Heck, just realigning after a CAL PLL would be a snap. The BFO recovery
 process would necessarily touch all the settings (requires the freq probe
 in TP2, I imagine).

 Back when I got my I/O module, BFO settings were not possible under KIO2
 command. I made a request to add the necessary functionality, and I believe
 it's been added to the product. However, I have not upgrade my firmware and
 have not revisited writing the code. I may not get around to it now, but
 you never knowg.

 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

 snip
 However, it's not a
 big deal to write down the settings, once you've worked them out. I keep a
 simple log sheet with my K2 manual that has the current settings noted.
 Using pencil, it's easy to change the relevant values if I decide to change
 something.
 /snip

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[Elecraft] K2 backup filter and other settings?

[Bernie Gardner]

My K2 (5707) is now working great, including the KPA100 amplifier, after a 
little set back due to a very small wire strand across a couple of connector 
pins.  Thanks to Gary Surrency's encouragement and advice I was able to find 
and correct the problem.  At one point in the process, the radio got reset so 
that I had to redo the filter settings.  It occurs to me that with the serial 
interface functioning, there should be a way to back up the filter settings 
to a computer and reload them if necessary.  Looking through the KIO2 
programmer's reference manual, it looks like all the commands to do that are 
available, but I can't find any programs which actually do this.  Does anyone 
know of such a program?

Bernie, W1AZ
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[Elecraft] Re: K2 turn-on frequency/band memory explained

[Bernie Gardner]

Thanks for the information Wayne (and everyone else who replied.)

I understand how it works now and it makes sense.  I should have seen the 
explanation in the manual, but I got more details on the list anyway.  I love 
the radio and am enjoying learning all it's features.  

Bernie
W1AZ

On Monday 18 December 2006 20:49, wayne burdick wrote:
 Hi Bernie,

 I should have answered this sooner, but was out of town.

 Here's how it works. The K2 doesn't have battery-backed-up RAM (which,
 obviously, requires a battery, as well as other hardware/firmware
 support). Instead, it has an EEPROM which stores all parameters. The
 present band, mode, etc. is saved in EEPROM whenever you change bands.
 But it is also saved after you've shown an interest in a particular
 frequency -- by not moving the VFO for 30 seconds. This works almost as
 well in practice as battery-backed-up RAM, but avoids the cost of a
 battery, socket, and power-off/power-on switching and detection
 circuitry.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 Bernie Gardner wrote:
  I'm still leanring all the features and quirks of my K2 (5705)  and
  have a
  quick question.  Exactly how does the default frequency of each band
  get
  set..  The manual mentions how 'each band memory is preset..' on first
  turn
  on, but I can't find an explanation of how it is changed.  By trial and
  error, it seems to be changed when I change frequency, then change
  mode, but
  not just by changing frequency.  So if I'm in cw mode, tune to an
  interesting
  frequency, turn the radio off then back on, it goes back to a
  previously
  determined frequency, not the most recent one.  If I change frequency,
  cycle
  through cw-usb-lsb-cw, turn the radio off and back on, it then comes
  up with
  the most recent frequency.  The same behavior seems to apply to
  changing
  bands.  Is this the way it is supposed to work and is it possible to
  have it
  just remember the most recent frequency on each band without cycling
  through
  the modes?

 ---

 http://www.elecraft.com
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[Elecraft] K2 turn on frequency/band memory

[Bernie Gardner]

I'm still leanring all the features and quirks of my K2 (5705)  and have a 
quick question.  Exactly how does the default frequency of each band get 
set..  The manual mentions how 'each band memory is preset..' on first turn 
on, but I can't find an explanation of how it is changed.  By trial and 
error, it seems to be changed when I change frequency, then change mode, but 
not just by changing frequency.  So if I'm in cw mode, tune to an interesting 
frequency, turn the radio off then back on, it goes back to a previously 
determined frequency, not the most recent one.  If I change frequency, cycle 
through cw-usb-lsb-cw, turn the radio off and back on, it then comes up with 
the most recent frequency.  The same behavior seems to apply to changing 
bands.  Is this the way it is supposed to work and is it possible to have it 
just remember the most recent frequency on each band without cycling through 
the modes?

Thanks for any suggestions!

Bernie
W1AZ
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: KPA100 Upgrade to revision D

[Bernie Gardner]

Wayne,

On a related question, I have a K2 (5707) which is working fine in as a qrp 
rig.  I purchased the KPA100 kit when I purchased the K2, but have not built 
and installed it yet.  Is reasonable to assume that if I'm careful with 
RFC10, there's no need to get the upgrade for the KPA 100 before I build it? 

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ

On Friday 10 November 2006 20:52, wayne burdick wrote:
 Hi John,

 The present changes are intended to eliminate the large RF choke that
 had been positioned near the antenna jack (100 uH, RFC10). Some
 builders had difficulty positioning this choke correctly, and in rare
 cases this could lead to feedback between the amplifier and the
 40-meter band-pass filter on the RF board.

 With the choke out of the circuit, the amplifier should never have any
 feedback on 40 meters.

 If you don't have any issues with the amplifier there should be no need
 to do the mods.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 On Nov 10, 2006, at 5:06 PM, John Reiser wrote:
  Hello everyone,
 
  I just downloaded and read the KPA100 upgrade instructions to revision
  D.  It is available now on the Elecraft website.
 
  What is missing, for me anyway, is a detailed explanation from
  Elecraft exactly what these changes are designed to accomplish.  I
  have two pre-revision-D KPA100s that work fine as far as I can tell.
 
  An explanation from Elecraft would go a long way towards motivating me
  to fix something that doesn't seem broke.
 
  Can anyone illucidate?
 
  72 and 73,
 
  John, W2GW

 ---

 http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] K2 #5707 is on the air

[Bernie Gardner]

After a few delays my K2 is functioning.  Just had QSO with FG/DL5CF; came 
back on first call with K2 running about 8 watts.  Still have a little fine 
tuning to do and a few options to build and install, but works great!

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ
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[Elecraft] Size of RFC15 in K2

[Bernie Gardner]

5707 passed the 'alignment and test, part 1' checks with no problem and I'm 
well into the 'Assembly, Part II' section.  I'm at the point of installing 
C91, C88 and RFC 15 on the bottom of the rf board at U4.  The manual talks 
about a miniature 100 uH choke, much smaller than the other 100 uH chokes and 
with a tan body.   I have 4 green bodied and one tan bodied 100 uH chokes as 
indicated in the parts list, but the tan bodied one is pretty close to the 
same size as the green ones, if any thing a little bigger.  I'm sure I can 
solder it to the indicated location, but is this something I should be 
concerned about?

Thanks for any advice,

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ
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[Elecraft] K2 sn 5707 in progress. Quick question

[Bernie Gardner]

I've had my K2 kit for a few days and am about finished with the front panel.  
Before proceeding I have a couple of concerns.

1)  As instructed, I did not remove the covering from either side of the 
diffuser backlight panel.  However, I notice that it appears to have 
separated during assembly.  There is a thin film bowed away from the panel.  
It's not clear what I can do about this, or if it is a serious problem.

2) In the reistance checks, everything seemed correct except for U1:pins 12 
and J1 Pins 1617.  The manual states these should be 25k-40k, but I get 
about 22.5k for all of them.  This is close, but is it a problem that the 
readings are not in the specified range?

Thanks for any help!

Bernie Gardner
W1AZ
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