Re: [Elecraft] Crystal filters for K4D.

[Martin Sole]

I think K4D is a direct sampling SDR, no such thing as a discrete filter in 
sight, Crystal or otherwise.

K4HD module will revert a K4D back to an old fashioned superheat front end with 
a fixed first IF so you can fit filters but I don’t know if any outside 
Elecraft knows what the centre  frequency will be.

Probably only worth it if you’re a multi multi station or have 1500 watt 
neighbours half a mile away.

Martin
Hs0zed

Sent from my iPhone

> On 1 Dec 2023, at 18:47, Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> I am about to buy a K4D.  I have 500-Hz filters (probably INRAD) in both my 
> K-3's receivers.  Will these filters fit in the K4D?  If not, who currently 
> sells such filters for the K4D?
> 
> --
> 73, Pete N4ZR
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[Elecraft] Elecraft contesting success

[Martin Sole]

Kudos to my very good friend Ken, K4ZW, for his stellar CQWW SSB 
performance. Claimed score on 3830 of 6,280,820 points being #1 in the 
US and #7 worldwide.


Whilst undoubtedly Ken's skill, honed over many years, and his rather 
herculean (at least to me) 45 hours in the chair contributed to his 
success, I think we can all agree that Ken's new Elecraft K4 played a 
major role not to mention his K3 second radio.


Well done Ken and Elecraft.

Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Frequency Display

[Martin Sole]

That sounds like either, there is no RS232 connection cable between the 
K3(S) and the P3 or, the P3 radio configuration is not properly set. 
Check the P3 manual for radio configuration and RS232 port speed etc.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 9/6/64 19:08, Ray Spreadbury via Elecraft wrote:

My new to me P3 is not displaying the frequency but rather at the top has a 0 
in the middle and +5, and -5 at either end if the spread is set to 10 for 
example. How do I get the frequency displayed please?
73 Ray G3XLG


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Remote control monitors

[Martin Sole]

I recall, Microsoft surface tablet running Linux on a virtual machine, was 
mentioned in a video some time back.

Martin 
HS0ZED 


Sent from my iPhone

> On 17 Sep 2020, at 23:46, Richard Allen  wrote:
> 
> Can someone please tell me what model pads are used in the Elecraft video 
> from the Dayton 2019 show with Eric presiding?  iPads or something else?
> 
> Thanks, Richard W5SXD 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K4] Shipping??

[Martin Sole]

Thoughts with all you guys who have suffered losses. Truly terrible news.

I just saw on my twitter feed a post from Elecraft showing a picture of 
3 K4's on the bench going through testing. I guess next step will be out 
the door. Someone's getting lucky!


Martin, HS0ZED



On 2/9/63 07:59, Jim Brown wrote:

On 9/1/2020 9:11 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
In related news, one of our local field testers lost pretty much 
everything he owned, including his K4, due to one fire's 
unprecedented rampage through our coastal forests.


Many our neighbors lost everything, four hams that I know of, 
including Elecraft production engineer and major contester K6XX. More 
that 1200 structures were destroyed in our neighborhood alone, most 
were homes.


My wife and I are lucky -- we still have a home. Won't know until we 
get home (5-7 days) about the antenna farm.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR TXG No Power Output

[Martin Sole]

My first thought would be that if re-seating TMP connectors does not do 
it then possibly one of the 0.1uF decoupling capacitors on the K-REF3 
board. Had that on 2 radios now and on one of them twice.


What is the serial number of your K3?
On both of the problem radios I've had this happen almost exactly the 
same, fine one minute gone the next, both radios were sub 500 S/N's so 
getting on a bit.


Regards
Martin, HS0ZED


On 22/8/63 18:54, Jim McCook wrote:
Pete, the problem occurs with the K-3 connected directly to a dummy 
load or various antennas.   Power is read on K3 and Bird wattmeter.

Mike, I'll try reseating all TMP connectors if there is no magic bullet.
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Re: [Elecraft] K-4 and Expo

[Martin Sole]

Eric mentioned it in the Q session that followed, he said first batches would 
likely be end of this month with sporadic shipping based on materials 
availability from then until they can achieve regular shipping.

Martin, HS0ZED 

Sent from my iPhone

> On 9 Aug 2020, at 17:49, Bill Mellema via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
>  Guys,
> There is a new K4 video on YouTube by Eric from yesterday.link 21st 
> Century Transceiver Design: The K4 High Performance Direct Sampling SDR
> 
> | 
> | 
> | 
> |  |  |
> 
> |
> 
> |
> | 
> |  | 
> 21st Century Transceiver Design: The K4 High Performance Direct Sampling...
> 
> 
> |
> 
> |
> 
> |
> 
> It is very good IMO  ..however he does not discuss delivery...
> 73
> Bill N3WM
> 
> 
>On Sunday, August 9, 2020, 10:14:30 AM EDT, Grant Youngman 
>  wrote:  
> 
> That announcement was made in the Zoom Q that followed, and during the 2nd 
> Zoom K4 presentation Eric gave later in the afternoon.
> 
> It sounded like it might be well into or end of October to get the entire 
> first order group out the door, give or take.  Partly dependent on supply 
> chain, partly dependent on how COVID impacts go, etc.  Probably best to let 
> the chickens hatch before trying to count them.
> 
> But it sure will be good news when the first production K4 ships … even 
> though I’m too late in the list to have my address on that one.
> 
> Grant NQ5T
> 
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Buck  wrote:
>> 
>> I didn't hear anything about delivery in the presentation.
>> 
>> k4ia, Buck
>> K3s# 11497
>> Honor Roll  8B DXCC
>> EasyWayHamBooks.com
>> 
>>> On 8/9/2020 9:43 AM, Martin Sole wrote:
>>> First ones end of August. Apparently
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> On 9 Aug 2020, at 16:37, Art Suberbielle  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Did Elecraft answer the big question-When will they start shipping the 
>>>> K-4?
>>>> 
>>>> I am registered for the Expo but unable to get any further than Elecraft
>>>> booth. Clocking on videos brings me to YouTube and the latest promo video.
>>>> But no mention there of the big question.
>>>> 
>>>> 73,
>>>> Art KZ5D
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Re: [Elecraft] K-4 and Expo

[Martin Sole]

First ones end of August. Apparently 

Sent from my iPhone

> On 9 Aug 2020, at 16:37, Art Suberbielle  wrote:
> 
> Did Elecraft answer the big question-When will they start shipping the K-4?
> 
> I am registered for the Expo but unable to get any further than Elecraft
> booth. Clocking on videos brings me to YouTube and the latest promo video.
> But no mention there of the big question.
> 
> 73,
> Art KZ5D
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 feature suggestion

[Martin Sole]

A cough switch sounds like a great idea, but a bit low tech. K3 users 
are mostly familiar with the Tx Gate function that blocks audio below a 
threshold level to reduce background noise. Would it not be possible to 
recognise audio input above a certain pre-settable level and have that 
also block transmission. Normally a cough or sneeze is much louder than 
our normal speech (ignore this if you purchase larynx oil and practice 
for the appearance of P5 on a regular basis!).


Martin, HS0ZED



On 29/7/63 10:36, Grant Youngman wrote:

This isn’t a bad idea.  It’s the primary reason I normally don’t use VOX — 
especially with a headset mic, when you can’t turn away from the microphone for 
a cough, sneeze, or worse.  With a headset, I most always use a handheld PTT 
switch or foot switch.

In the days I had a substantial AM station I had a cough switch in the mic line.

Grant NQ5T


On Jul 28, 2020, at 9:58 PM, John Simmons  wrote:

Stolen from Facebook:
Programmable PTT so that when using VOX on SSB, the PTT functions as a mute 
(cough) switch

--
73,
-de John NI0K
https://www.qrz.com/db/NI0K
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 problem

[Martin Sole]

Apologies, I just saw the serial number  7818, quite a bit newer so 
maybe not a failed capacitor, yet :)


Martin, H0ZED


On 27/7/63 23:32, Martin Sole wrote:

Hi,

What Serial number?

I have found on my own and a friends K3, both very low S/N around 300, 
that the KREF3 board has been the culprit for this exact problem.
First check the all the TMP cables to and from the KREF3 board and the 
synths. If all look good you should examine the K3REF board.


In both cases I have found 100nF (0.1uF) capacitors on this board to 
be essentially a low DC resistance. Look in particular at the 5 volt 
line. This supply affect IC6 the divide by 6 which provides both the 
second LO for the receivers and one input to the mixer for the TXIF1. 
Measure the resistance to ground from either side of L1 and L2 to 
figure out which capacitor is likely the cause of the problem.


Please keep the list posted on what you find.

Martin, HS0ZED



On 27/7/63 19:50, LA7NO wrote:

Hello,

The K3 suddenly stopped working.
One day all OK, the next day serious problems.

Serial no.: 07818.
It has ATU and 100 W PA installed, and also a P3 connected.
Both K3 and P3 were earlier well calibrated.
Supply: 14,5 VDC.

Symptoms:
- Rx seriously reduced sensitivity, only strong signals to be heard.
- No Tx output. Tuning not successful, no SWR indicated (only the 3
hyphens).
- Same on all bands.
- All displays, controls and menus apparently working normal.
- Mic-gain & ALC normal indication on SSB.

All menu settings seem to be OK.

Connected an XG3 and injected a -73 dBm signal.
It showed up on all bands with signal level about -100 dBm, so around 30 dB
attenuation.

Connected a LP-100A and a 50 ohm dummy load.
Whatever we tried, the LP-100A indicated zero power out on all bands.
Same on both Ant1 and Ant2.
Bypassed the ATU: no change.
Set power to < 10 W, effectively bypassing the PA: no change.

It is clearly something that is common for both Rx and Tx.
It is independent of the selected band.
Apparently not related to ATU or PA.

So, it could be some relay problem, or related to the SWR bridge or
LP-filters.

Hope you can give some helpful ideas on how to proceed.

Best regards & 73 from Norway,

Per-Tore / LA7NO




-
73,

Per-Tore / LA7NO

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K3 problem

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

What Serial number?

I have found on my own and a friends K3, both very low S/N around 300, 
that the KREF3 board has been the culprit for this exact problem.
First check the all the TMP cables to and from the KREF3 board and the 
synths. If all look good you should examine the K3REF board.


In both cases I have found 100nF (0.1uF) capacitors on this board to be 
essentially a low DC resistance. Look in particular at the 5 volt line. 
This supply affect IC6 the divide by 6 which provides both the second LO 
for the receivers and one input to the mixer for the TXIF1. Measure the 
resistance to ground from either side of L1 and L2 to figure out which 
capacitor is likely the cause of the problem.


Please keep the list posted on what you find.

Martin, HS0ZED



On 27/7/63 19:50, LA7NO wrote:

Hello,

The K3 suddenly stopped working.
One day all OK, the next day serious problems.

Serial no.: 07818.
It has ATU and 100 W PA installed, and also a P3 connected.
Both K3 and P3 were earlier well calibrated.
Supply: 14,5 VDC.

Symptoms:
- Rx seriously reduced sensitivity, only strong signals to be heard.
- No Tx output. Tuning not successful, no SWR indicated (only the 3
hyphens).
- Same on all bands.
- All displays, controls and menus apparently working normal.
- Mic-gain & ALC normal indication on SSB.

All menu settings seem to be OK.

Connected an XG3 and injected a -73 dBm signal.
It showed up on all bands with signal level about -100 dBm, so around 30 dB
attenuation.

Connected a LP-100A and a 50 ohm dummy load.
Whatever we tried, the LP-100A indicated zero power out on all bands.
Same on both Ant1 and Ant2.
Bypassed the ATU: no change.
Set power to < 10 W, effectively bypassing the PA: no change.

It is clearly something that is common for both Rx and Tx.
It is independent of the selected band.
Apparently not related to ATU or PA.

So, it could be some relay problem, or related to the SWR bridge or
LP-filters.

Hope you can give some helpful ideas on how to proceed.

Best regards & 73 from Norway,

Per-Tore / LA7NO




-
73,

Per-Tore / LA7NO

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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity receive versus QRM eliminators

[Martin Sole]

QRM eliminators can work surprisingy well at times and appear next to 
useles at others. It's rarely the unit, rather the situation. All of 
these similar units, of which the MFJ noise cancelling signal enhancer 
is but one operate by combining two essentially identical signals, the 
unwanted noise. With the phase of one 180 degree from the other and the 
amplitude matched total cancellation should occur, and it will, almost 
certainly.


The difficulties are two fold. First is that whilst phase adjustment can 
be made over a reasonable range the amplitudes must be the same. That's 
not so easy and the noise antenna often needs to hear a lot more of the 
noise signal than you might think necessary. The second problem is that 
these units can only eliminate one noise source. If you are surrounded 
by plasma and switch mode devices removing one just leaves a bunch more. 
The problem here, other than amplitude matching is that all of the 
arriving noise signals from different sources have a different phase 
relationship between your main and noise antenna. So adjusting for one 
noise signal to have 180 degree relationship between main and noise 
antenna will make every other signal have a different phase 
relationship, the signals come from different directions and different 
distances so reach the two antennas at different times, and hence 
different phases. Cancelling one doesn't do much for the other. If you 
have one noise source coming from one direction and you can collect 
enough of it then the so-called QRM eliminators work rather well, until 
something shifts and the phase changes and your tweaking again.


Of course once Wayne gets done with all the K4 trickery he will have 
time to develop the K-null that will eliminate all unwanted noise from 
all sources on all frequencies at all times at the push of a button. 
Join the queue :-)


Martin, HS0ZED



On 30/6/63 00:18, g...@gmx.net wrote:

Hello all,
In a recent rush to eliminate urban noise I bought an QRM eliminator.
The working principle is to null out signals by shifting the phases of
two antennas (one main/tx and one rx). I can see the effect sometimes,
but it is not the holy grail for all types of QRM. I still don't get rid
of the PSU/LED/plasmaish noise here, sometimes the S/N is a bit better
but maybe thats my inner impression to justify buying this thing.
Now, I do wonder how this differs from diversity receive, effectively
versus local QRM.
Note I have a 10m vertical as the 2nd ant, while the main ant is 
horizontal.

Any thoughts or hints ?
tnx 73 Gernot DF5RF


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tx power troubles

[Martin Sole]

Hi Bill,

I have the K3 working again, currently going great stuff on 10m to give 
it a good workout. Problem was one of those silly ones but also one that 
I have just recently read about on the reflector, the case of a loose 
TMP coax. In my case it turned out to be J7 on the KREF3 board.


Martin, HS0ZED




On 3/6/63 00:42, William Hammond wrote:
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/Manuals%20Downloads/E740182%20KPA3CONMDKT%20Instruction%20Manual.pdf 
<https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3/Manuals Downloads/E740182 KPA3CONMDKT 
Instruction Manual.pdf>


This describes the process...

The parts needed are described on the first page of the document...

73, Bill-AK5X

On Jun 2, 2020, at 10:17 AM, Martin Sole <mailto:hs0...@gmail.com>> wrote:


My aging K3, S/N 298, is once again proving a little troublesome. 
Into a nice solid 50 ohm dummy load with a strong 14 volt supply and 
short thick cables never known to be an issue I see a maximum of 
about 10 watts out when set to 110 watts on the front panel. Starting 
at 0w it increases in line with the setting until about 3.5 watts. 
The LPA stops there and then when the KPA3 comes in it goes up to 
about 10 watts but beyond that no further increase.


I presume this is a either a drive or and LPA issue but I suspect the 
actual cause might be well known here. What are the chances?



Regards
Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 tx power troubles

[Martin Sole]

My aging K3, S/N 298, is once again proving a little troublesome. Into a 
nice solid 50 ohm dummy load with a strong 14 volt supply and short 
thick cables never known to be an issue I see a maximum of about 10 
watts out when set to 110 watts on the front panel. Starting at 0w it 
increases in line with the setting until about 3.5 watts. The LPA stops 
there and then when the KPA3 comes in it goes up to about 10 watts but 
beyond that no further increase.


I presume this is a either a drive or and LPA issue but I suspect the 
actual cause might be well known here. What are the chances?



Regards
Martin, HS0ZED


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Re: [Elecraft] More on 1E for FD, QRP K3?

[Martin Sole]

You can also disable the 100 watt PA in the menu to prevent possible 
over driving of any qrp rated accessories.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 28/5/63 11:03, Nr4c wrote:

The KPA3 is not used until you set PWR to greater than 12 Watts.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On May 27, 2020, at 11:24 PM, Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-717-1197 
 wrote:

Does the K3 cut off the 100W PA when the power is set to QRP levels?  Or am
I conflating that with the K2?
I'm looking to run 1E for FD without spending too much on a battery.
Although a big battery and/or using the KX3 are beginning to look more
attractive.

I wish I had the marginal size 31 battery I took out of HARVEY GAMAGE last
summer, but that was 9 months ago and in Maine.
73, Doug

73, Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Martin Sole]

DISP and rotate vfo B for desired measurement option.

Martin, HS0ZED



On 25/04/2020 23:19, N4ZR wrote:
That's right - my focus was (perhaps too narrowly) on the behavior of 
the power supply under load, not on losses in the system.  Now if 
someone can just tell me how to read the voltage at the transceiver - 
I know there's a menu setting somewhere but my radio is fairly early 
and the manual doesn't say.


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 4/25/2020 11:25 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
I did notice that the post mentioned that his power supply dipped in 
voltage but as for preventing issues due to low voltage, it's not 
your voltmeter on the power supply that is the proper indicator. It 
is the voltage on the input to the K3 that you should be noting. It's 
available on the menu and displays in the VFO B area on the screen.


Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad


On Apr 25, 2020, at 9:51 AM, N4ZR  wrote:

For whatever it may be worth, my K3 is run through a West Mountain 
RigRunner 4005i, and the voltmeter on my SEC 1235M doesn't even 
flicker when I go key-down at 100 watts.


I'm wondering if a 25-amp-rated supply (perhaps a little optimistic) 
might be to blame.  My K3 draws 20.2 amps at 100 watts key down.


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.


On 4/25/2020 10:32 AM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
I had been using a power pole strip to power everything. After 
seeing some

discussion on this topic some time ago I found that in the string of 3
power pole connections in my setup at the time I was seeing around 
a 1 volt

drop in the voltage on the K3 metering between receive and 100 watts
keydown. That voltage drop was confirmed by my VOM so I wired the rig
directly to the supply and the voltage drop was less than 0.25 
volts. That
is the way my rigs and VHF/UHF amps will be connected from now on 
with only

a fuse inline. The low current stuff will stay on the power pole strip
where they do just fine lighting up lights and stuff.

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 09:16 Don Schroder  
wrote:


Bob,

Is it safe to run my K2 using Anderson Power Pole connections, and/or
RigRunner equipment?

For my info, what is the reason for NOT using them?

I’m rewiring, and I want to do it right!

Gunny, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail for
Windows 10

From: Gmail
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 9:03 AM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

Nuts, just measure the drop between radio and power supply see if 
it is
reasonable. Mine is 0.25 volts when transmitting.  I run 14.0 out 
of supply.

Ray
W8LYJ

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 25, 2020, at 07:48, Bob McGraw K4TAX  
wrote:


As to the RigRunner power pole strip.PUT IT IN THE TRASH 
where
it belongs.    NEVER NEVER NEVER use a power distribution strip to 
power a

100 watt radio.   ALWAYS connect the radio direct to the power supply
terminals.   NO exceptions!

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/25/2020 7:13 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
After more checking, I suspect the internal 100W amp is the common

factor
in the poor keying characteristics I'm seeing and hearing about 
from my
rig.  I am trying to determine if my power supply is doing it's 
job.


I'm using a TenTec 963 switching supply rated at 25A 
continuous.  At

rest
the K3S panel display shows 13.6V, with full power key down it 
dips to

11.5

or so.  This seems like a lot. I'm running the power cable thru a
RigRunner Powerpole strip.  If I can dig out another power 
supply from

the

packed boxes I can wire the K3S directly to the supply.

Is 11.5V at key down enough to cause the slow rise time being 
reported?


73 de Chuck, WS1L


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Re: [Elecraft] About my capacitor failure (etc.) issue:

[Martin Sole]

I can add perhaps another data point on the rectifier matter. Years back 
my employer, one of the largest ground to air radio manufacturers was 
having failures with their mainstay transmitter, a 50w carrier AM unit. 
It had a large toroidal  transformer and a packaged rectifier. The 
rectifier was bolted to the steel sub chassis and all was fine in 
regular intermittent service but  in ATIS service the transmitter runs 
essentially continuous, so about 160-180 PEP, and rectifiers were failing.


Investigation showed that the steel chassis was not 100% flat and the 
contact surface of the rectifier was compromised. The fix was to insert 
a (really) flat aluminium bar under the rectifier and bolt that to the 
chassis. The bar did much of the heat sinking and had many more contact 
patches with the steel sub chassis. Even paint ridges can be a source of 
reduced contact leading to overheating of the rectifier package and 
those things really do need to shift some heat. A good way to think of 
it is like you would a PA transistor in a 100 watt amplifier, we 
appreciate how well they need to be bolted to a heat sink and your 
rectifier package wants very similar assessment.


It's not so much the current that causes failure rather the heat is not 
being dissipated properly from the smaller package.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 25/04/2020 02:11, Ray Albers wrote:

This thread started as my description of the failure of my Astron RS-20A
power supply, caused by a bad electrolytic capacitor on the regulator
circuit board. Several hams posted advice that a 20Amp supply was really
too small for a K3/100, especially if running full power. This led me to
order an Astron RS-35 supply.

Chris Hoover, AI6KG, posted the below advice, warning about possible under-
engineered rectifier diode arrangement in the RS-35A.

Today the big brown truck delivered my RS-35M-AP  (the M and AP signify it
has meters and Anderson Power Poles on the front panel).  Chris speculated
that Astron may have made changes more recently. So the first thing I did
was to open the case to check out the rectifier arrangement.  Here's what I
found:

My unit bears Serial Number 2019110051.  I am speculating that the leading
digits 2019 signifies 2019 manufacture.  Interestingly, the schematic that
shipped with the unit says Rev.1, April 2020.  The schematic shows two
bridge rectifiers, DB3501. Two diodes are used from each bridge, and sure
enough the diodes are paralleled.  The DB3501 is spec'd at 35A, so that
seems to be an improvement from the 25A diodes Chris mentioned.  That's
what's in the schematic. Inside the power supply, there are indeed  two
rectifier packages bolted to the floor, with heavy (maybe 14ga) solid wires
connecting terminals in parallel. I'm unable to confirm what the rating of
these diode packages is. They are not labeled DB3501. Instead, they say
"Astron 5001," and one of them also bears some Chinese characters. So
custom made for Astron?

Well, I have ordered a 50Amp rated diode package, but  am undecided if I
will replace the diodes in the supply.  35 Amp rated diode bridges is an
upgrade from the 25 diode bridges that Chris mentioned finding. It does
puzzle me why, with 50A (and better) diodes being so cheap, would Astron do
it this way?  I can only think of two reasons:  1) We think having two
packages bolted to the case will make for better heat dissipation of the
total heat generated at max current and 2), the ever present, "because
we've always done it this way!"

Finally, I'll mention that, like my old RS-20A, I found the negative
terminal bonded to the case. I consider this bad practice so I removed that
bond.

73 to all
Ray K2HYD


On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 6:07 PM Christopher Hoover 
wrote:


You might want to replace the bridge rectifier in that new 35A power
supply.

Yep, right out of the box.

At some point, Astron started shipping RS-35A's with a 25A bridge
rectifier.   They paralleled two out of four of the 25A diodes twice over
to make, supposedly, a pair of 50A diodes for center-tapped full-wave
rectification.  That's not good engineering practice as the diodes in each
pair will not share current equally because of differences in Vf and
tempco. Once one blow, the other will blow shortly after.

After I fixed my own RS-35A with this problem, I've helped several other
hams fix this same problem in theirs.  Not a random sample, as this is just
folks on my local machine and in local clubs.

You can get a 50A bridge in the same package for under $3.

Perhaps Astron has fixed the problem since 

73 de AI6KG  -ch




On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 10:28 AM Ray Albers  wrote:


Many to all who posted/responded to my recent post about an electrolytic
capacitor failure in my power supply.  Lots of very interesting reading
about peoples' industry experiences - thank you!

Several have pointed out that using a 20A supply with my K3/100 is pushing
close to (or over!) the limit.  Even though I am measuring just 16A at the
power 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 shift-width/lo-hi

[Martin Sole]

Keith,

Many thanks for the heads up. I did the gain calibration instinctively 
as I did not know if it would be modified by the EE-Init or not, the D10 
manual page 66 on parameter initialization does not state.


All working well now and the radio is back to proper operation.

Martin, HS0ZED


On 31/03/2020 04:50, Keith Trinity WE6R wrote:

Don't forget to do the TX gain cal, that gets wiped during EE INIT.
Then save the config.
**BUT; You might try loading your saved config, then read my notes;
From my notes;

*_Cannot toggle LEDs SHIFT LO CUT HI WIDTH TAPPING LOCKED in CW or 
DATA mode(s) + N/A_*


_Fix;_Turn off “CW QRQ” in config menu, or set “PB CTRL” to .05 
instead of .01


Notes; Any of the following, in any combination, will lock out the 
toggle to HI CUT / LO CUT:


CW mode and CW QRQ ON ("+" sign visible on LCD display, not flashing)

CW mode and CONFIG:PB CTRL Shift=.01

DATA mode (FSK/AFSK)

Keith WE6R


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 shift-width/lo-hi

[Martin Sole]

Bill,

Many thanks, EE-Init seems to have done the trick, if for no other 
reason than it set default settings and restored the normal operation. 
Loading my saved configuration, saved after the problem occurred, 
created the same problem, no HI-Lo in SSB only on Data and AM.


I've now doe a full manual setup of all my filters and modules, I had 
that info to hand, and saved the current full working configuration.


So normal service is restored and the Hi-Lo function is once again 
working on all modes. Now I just need to brave the 38 degrees C to get 
outside and climb the tower to work on the antenna.


Many thanks Bill

73
Martin, HS0ZED



On 28/03/2020 15:53, Nr4c wrote:

Look in manual for “EE_Init”.

Is it set to Hi-Lo for SSB and Shift-Width for CW?   If so, why change it?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Mar 28, 2020, at 3:51 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:

HI,

So today having fun in WPX but playing with the K3 controls I am fairly sure 
that I should be able to change from shift-width to lo-hi by just a tap of 
either knob, but it does nothing. Well it does work as expected in Data and AM 
mode but not in CW or SSB. All other functions are normal and working as 
expected including the NORM and I/II switch functions. its just 
shift-width/hi-lo in CW and SSB modes only.

I've never needed to do this before but am scratching my head how to do a hard 
reset to default baseline settings, cannot find anything in the manual.

So what's going on? Have I set something that could disable this, and how can I 
achieve a clean test state to see what should or shouldn;t work.

73
Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 shift-width/lo-hi

[Martin Sole]

HI,

So today having fun in WPX but playing with the K3 controls I am fairly 
sure that I should be able to change from shift-width to lo-hi by just a 
tap of either knob, but it does nothing. Well it does work as expected 
in Data and AM mode but not in CW or SSB. All other functions are normal 
and working as expected including the NORM and I/II switch functions. 
its just shift-width/hi-lo in CW and SSB modes only.


I've never needed to do this before but am scratching my head how to do 
a hard reset to default baseline settings, cannot find anything in the 
manual.


So what's going on? Have I set something that could disable this, and 
how can I achieve a clean test state to see what should or shouldn;t work.


73
Martin, HS0ZED


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Re: [Elecraft] A broken K3

[Martin Sole]

Hi David,

I had a couple of failures this past year on my early K3 s/n 298. It's 
been updated with new synths and a new KRX3A plus it was updated some 
years ago before I got it and has most of the factory mods, though not 
the gold pins. If you search the archive here on my callsign you can see 
what I posted. Briefly I had first a loss of TX and some months later a 
loss of RX and TX.


Both faults were traced to 0.1uF decoupling capacitors on the K3REF 
board going leaky and puling bias voltages down such that they would not 
switch the various circuits/signals.  In the first case it caused loss 
of the TX bias voltage so the diode switching was not working. In the 
second case it was causing loss of second L.O. injection which of course 
made for a rather quiet receiver as well as no transmit.


Good luck, for sure you can fix it or get it fixed.

73
Martin, HS0ZED






On 25/03/2020 21:49, David Olean wrote:
Hello Jack, I have responded to Keith and am following his directions. 
He had lots of good info for me to try, and I am grateful for that.


Dave, K1WHS

On 3/25/2020 5:48 AM, Jack Brindle wrote:

David;

Go back and re-read the message from Keith Trinity. Keith is one of 
the guys down in Watsonville and knows more about the K3 than just 
about anyone.


To put it another way, you were indeed contacted by Customer Support.

73!
Jack, W6FB



On Mar 24, 2020, at 7:46 PM, David Olean  wrote:

I swapped out the non working synthesizer with a good one I had 
removed for an upgrade. The new one did not work either, so it is 
something else. I tried calibrating both synthesizers and received 
an error message ERROR 00044 on both of them.  I have been trying to 
contact Elecraft support, but have no joy there yet.


I guess I need to study the schematics some more. I must be missing 
a voltage somewhere. I tried re seating the connectors on many of 
the boards including the front panel. No luck there either, but I 
will try again tomorrow and use some DE-OXIT.


73

Dave K1WHS

On 3/25/2020 2:14 AM, Wilson Lamb wrote:

Why wouldn't you change  the synth?
I wouldn't even think of troubleshooting such a complicated, but 
free, board!

A bad one will obviously shut down both RX and TX!
WL
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Re: [Elecraft] Update: K3 Hard of Hearing

[Martin Sole]

I guess if the transmit is working fine (into an antenna) it rules out 
pretty much anything in the common path.


Do you have the KXV3 Tvtr and Rx in/out module? If the switching around 
it is bad you can jumper the BNC connectors. Or try injecting a known 
level into the Rx in port.


If you have exhausted all the usual likely candidates I would be tempted 
to look at the RX switched bias, make sure it is the correct voltage.


What serial number is the radio?


Martin, HS0ZED



On 22/01/2020 04:02, John Unger wrote:

Transmit works fine, Martin.

On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 7:46 PM Martin Sole <mailto:hs0...@gmail.com>> wrote:


Is the transmit working okay?

Don’t recall if you mentioned before.

My early K3 suffered 0.1uf capacitor failure causing loss of
injection which affected both tx and rx. Another cap failure
caused loss of tx only due to shorted switching voltage. Both were
on the RefOsc board.



Sent from my iPhone

> On 22 Jan 2020, at 02:42, John Unger mailto:w4au.j...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Wow, guys, thank you all for the suggestions of things to
check, but still
> no joy...
>
> Here's your suggestions that I have checked:
> voltage - 13.6
> RX ANT not on
> I uploaded a couple of old config files - not change
> Turning RF GAIN fully CCW puts SWR meter at full scale
> My other K3 hears FB on all the antennas
> This K3 doesn't have an ATU
> Switching an antenna in and out makes no apparent difference in
received
> signals
> No change in BP filters; they have been working fine for long time.
>
> I do operate SO2R. The last time radio was working OK was during
the NAQP
> CW contest where I was running 100W. I have operated KW amps in
the past on
> each radio without any front end problems (but there's always
the first
> time, right?).
>
> Thanks again for the help
>
> 73 - John, W4AU
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Re: [Elecraft] Update: K3 Hard of Hearing

[Martin Sole]

Is the transmit working okay?

Don’t recall if you mentioned before.

My early K3 suffered 0.1uf capacitor failure causing loss of injection which 
affected both tx and rx. Another cap failure caused loss of tx only due to 
shorted switching voltage. Both were on the RefOsc board.



Sent from my iPhone

> On 22 Jan 2020, at 02:42, John Unger  wrote:
> 
> Wow, guys, thank you all for the suggestions of things to check, but still
> no joy...
> 
> Here's your suggestions that I have checked:
> voltage - 13.6
> RX ANT not on
> I uploaded a couple of old config files - not change
> Turning RF GAIN fully CCW puts SWR meter at full scale
> My other K3 hears FB on all the antennas
> This K3 doesn't have an ATU
> Switching an antenna in and out makes no apparent difference in received
> signals
> No change in BP filters; they have been working fine for long time.
> 
> I do operate SO2R. The last time radio was working OK was during the NAQP
> CW contest where I was running 100W. I have operated KW amps in the past on
> each radio without any front end problems (but there's always the first
> time, right?).
> 
> Thanks again for the help
> 
> 73 - John, W4AU
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Re: [Elecraft] Hard of hearing, almost deaf K3

[Martin Sole]

Ant 1/2, RX Ant settings would be first, tuner bypass next maybe. 

If still not good does rf gain fully counterclockwise raise S meter to full 
scale? 

Ant okay on another rx? 



Sent from my iPhone

> On 21 Jan 2020, at 19:44, John Unger  wrote:
> 
>  A few days ago one of my K3's appeared to have suddenly gone almost deaf.
> Here are some of the symptoms and observations:
> 
> - Rig's S meter shows very low or no background noise (strong stations can
> still be heard weakly).
> - P3 shows  - I can hear strongest stations, they just make it to ~S1.
> - Overall effect appears to be similar to having big attenuator in line.
> - Problem is antenna independent.
> - Rig transmits fine, low SWR, etc.
> - Both main and sub receivers have the symptoms.
> 
> I've check most "obvious" things: RF gain, etc.,
> (but there are a lot of buttons and MENU/CONFIG settings to inadvertently
> push on the radio...)
> 
> I would appreciate any suggestions of what else to look for or reports of
> similar problems from others before I ship it off to Elekraft.
> 
> 73 and thanks - John, W4AU
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Re: [Elecraft] Dug my K2 out today

[Martin Sole]

Break the piggy bank, take out a loan, sell the kids, just do what it 
takes. I did back in 2017 and built 7723 while I was working in the 
desert. It has SSB, NB, 160 and RS232 options and was a lot of fun 
considering it works as well, if not better, than a lot of other radios. 
The KX series might have it beat on a lot of fronts but I don;t think 
they can compete in the smiles per qso at the same rate. Probably the 
last real kit radio, ever!


There is though another option, and one I'm about to start out on. 
Building a Heathkit, more correctly rebuilding. A lot were never 
particularly well built in the first place and many components were 
perhaps not the best quality so I plan to render an SB-102 to its 
constituent parts and start all over again, with new R's particularly, 
C's where necessary and other parts as required. There are so many out 
there that getting another one or two for parts is not too onerous. I'll 
still say the K2 will be the better radio, of course but I'd bet it 
starts batting up there in the smiles per qso stakes.


Kit building can be dismissed as soldering practice when you think all 
the hard work is done for you but that would be to completely disregard 
the plain fun factor. Get em while they're (still) hot!


Martin, HS0ZED




On 14/01/2020 16:25, Clay Autery wrote:
Wish I could afford to buy one while they are still available  I 
would like to say that I had the experience of doing s solder 
build...  


__
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(318) 518-1389

On 01/13/20 17:37, Wayne Burdick wrote:

And we're still selling them, too :)

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jan 13, 2020, at 2:27 PM, Macy monkeys  
wrote:


Hard to believe 20 years have gone by since I built my K2. Well, I 
think it's been close to 20 years. I have S/N 586. In any event, I 
put it on air today. Somehow it got buried behind a flurry of other 
late model rigs. What a pleasure to listen to the K2 receiver; 
signals come in like there's a connection direct from the antenna to 
my headphones.


Looking back at over 50 years in the hobby I must say building the 
K2 was one of the highlights. Thanks Elecraft!


John K7FD
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Re: [Elecraft] Ris: Elecraft web site off? TO DON WILHELM AND ERIC SCHWARTZ

[Martin Sole]

Might be a useful data point, maybe not. I just used my vpn to connect 
to servers in Italy. One in Milan another in Cosenza. Both were able to 
reach the Elecraft website without difficulty.



On 25/11/2019 20:30, IK4EWX wrote:

Don, and all the friends that answered, it is really a strange thing.
Other italian hams friend of mine tried to connect Elecraft web site and all
were unable to connect it.
We have different internet providers, we all are unable to connect it.
I even changed the DNS (8.8.8.8...)on pc, but this not the problem.
Don, you worked with Elecraft, can you say this thing to Elecraft people?
Thanks es 73,
Ian IK4EWX



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Re: [Elecraft] Using external SDR and a K3 as antenna splitter

[Martin Sole]

I think that's pretty much it Dave. Take a cable from the Rx ant out, 
feed it to one port of a 3 way tee, take the second port to Rx Ant in. 
Take third port of the tee to the SDR. There will be loss of course in 
both paths depending on the impedance of the SDR. If your fussy you can 
invest in a mini circuits splitter and use it to replace the tee. There 
will still be loss but the impedances will be better matched and 
defined, if that's important. To make it work you need to use the Rx Ant 
switch on the K3 to send signal out the Rx ant out jack and receive on 
the Rx ant in so feeding the SDR as well otherwise the jacks are 
bypassed and only the K3 works, as normal.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 18/11/2019 23:06, Dave Cole wrote:
A few years ago someone posted a method of using a splitter, and the 
External Antenna jacks to feed an external SDR with the direct 
antenna, not a IF, but a wideband signal from the primary antenna...


I think it was something along the lines of add a splitter, between 
the RX Antenna in/out, and then picking off the antenna feed to the 
SDR from an output of the splitter...   Does this make sense?


Is there a high level block diagram showing the antenna pathing for a 
K3, with the ATU installed, and how the front panel switch labeled RX 
ANT controls the signal path?




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S stuck on MCU LD

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

Is the PC detecting the radio when you connect it? Check for the com 
port appearing when you plug the USB cable in. It will appear in Device 
manager under comm ports. Make sure its detected and the K3 utility can 
see the correct port as allocated in Device manager.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 14/11/2019 21:57, Don Pomplun wrote:
A few days ago I noticed that when I powered up my K3S (ser #11141) I 
would briefly get an Err DSE message.  The manual says I should reload 
the firmware via the K3 Utility program (like I've successfully done 
in the past when a new version is available). But this time when I 
click Send All Firmware to K3, I get this:


Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.16.7.25
OS Version 6.1 Build 7601 Windows 7
K3 MCU revision ??.??. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s.
Sending firmware file C:\Users\K2BIO\AppData\Roaming\Elecraft\K3 
Firmware\hmcu0567.hex to MCU

/(5-10 second pause, then)/
Error code 0xE248: No response to poll while synchronizing to 
buffer boundary

MCU verification failed. Reload MCU.
Click "Close" to close this window

I disconnected the Power Pole connector for a few minutes, then 
powered it up again.  After the front panel LEDs flash briefly, the 
screen says MCU LD and the red TX light is flashing. Trying this again 
many times, I get the same message.
Then I noticed that with _no power to the K3S and the USB cable 
between the K3S and the PC unplugged_ at both ends, when I start the 
K3 Utility, and click /Send All Firmware to K3/, I get exactly the 
same error message as noted earlier (with nothing connected). Thinking 
maybe the problem is with the K3 Utility, I deleted it from the PC and 
reloaded it from the Elecraft site and reinstalled it.  Same problem!
It appears that even after a long power-down, the K3 processor isn't 
resetting.  Looking for suggestions!

TIA
Don    K2BIO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 died again and fixed

[Martin Sole]

A few days ago I posted the below message but had not had time until 
today to dig a little deeper. I took as my starting point the loss of 
both receive and transmit as an indicator that the culprit would likely 
be something common to both and given the lack of receiver noise whilst 
the P3 panadaptor showed normal signals and band noise suggested it 
would be after the first conversion.


This suggested something in the second LO as a likely possibility and 
with the first intent being to measure the oscillator signals. I used my 
SDRplay RSP1 with the Steve Andrews spectrum analyser software as this 
was handy and is easy to use. BTW, this is a great tool if you have any 
of the RSP devices. Going to the KREF3 board between the synthesisers 
and probing the 49.380MHz reference showed a healthy signal close to 
0dBm, as expected since the P3 confirmed tuning works, so I moved to the 
output of U2 the divide by 6, hmm, nothing, nada, zilch. Worries of a 
dead 74VHC175 with no replacement on hand was the first thought but 
rapidly followed by my knowledge that this board had not so long ago 
suffered a capacitor failure causing loss of the 7 volt transmit bias.


With the KREF3 on the bench a quick measure from the 5 volt line to 
ground showed 82 ohms after L2, 87 ohms between L1 and L2 and about 91 
before L1. Way too low for sure. There are 3 components here C7, C19 and 
U1. Having had a 0.1uF fail on this board already I was ready to bet the 
farm on either C7 or C19. C19 was the first to be removed and I hit pay 
dirt right off, shoulda bought that lottery ticket today! Another dud 
0.1uF then. Measuring the 5v to ground showed it now at a much more 
respectable 1.3k ohms. Replacement was with a 1206 0.1 as I had done 
earlier with C6.


Normal service is resumed. It's all back working as it should but I do 
wonder now about the possible longevity of the other 0.1uF capacitors 
both on this board and possibly in other parts of the radio. I count 12 
more on this board alone.


I should mention that my K3 is an early unit, S/N 298 so I presume circa 
2008-ish. More than 10 years is not bad in my book and the faults have 
been fairly straight forward. It might be surface mount but it's 
eminently repairable.



Martin, HS0ZED


On 12/11/2019 19:48, Martin Sole wrote:

Hi,

My K3 is quite an early unit, S/N 298. Recently upgraded with new 
synths KRX3A and KXV3, I also have a P3 connected to the radio. A 
while back it failed with a shorted smd capacitor on the K3REF board 
causing loss of TX bias voltage. Today it has lost both receive and 
transmit and I am thinking it might be from the same module. Here's 
the situation.


Rig powers on and appears to work normally except soft noise from the 
speaker, no band noise to speak of and no signals. P3 shows plenty of 
signals, S9 plus on FT8 freqs but nothing heard other than soft noise. 
Tuning works as signals move in the band scope. No sub receiver 
signals either and no TX output. Have not checked transverter output 
but expect to find nothing there.


P3 take off at IF output so everything is clearly working up to there. 
DSP seems to be working as width and shift cause the expected changes 
in audio. S meter reads dead zero, no movement.


About the only common point I can see is the K3REF board so it would 
appear a second failure on this module. Since this is where I had to 
do earlier work I wouldn't put it past being a user inflicted fault, 
but that repair was a month or more ago.


Anyone care to have a guess or share thoughts?

Martin, HS0ZED


Earlier


Hi,

So I had some success in fixing this and thought I would write it up 
here briefly for future reference.


Short version
C6 on the K3REF module had become a 12 ohm resistor.

Longer version
Finding the 7T line only going to 3.5 volts or so was suspicious. 
Measuring the resistance to ground of that line showed about 20 ohms 
where the 7 volts is generated at U11 on the RF board, very suspicious. 
The first step then was to remove any removable item that has a 
connection to the 7T line. That's most modules in the K3. Checking the 
resistance of the 7T line each time I removed a plug in module showed 
the fault to be somewhere on the K3REF module. The 7T line on this board 
goes to Q3 via R16, R8 and R9 and also to Q2 and U3 via L5. Measuring 
either side of L5 showed  lower resistance on the Q2 and U3 side, now 
around 12 ohms as opposed to 14 or so at pin 3 of P75. Focus then was 
directed at Q2 and U3 as likely culprits being active devices likely 
more prone to failure but removing Q2 showed no change nor did very 
carefully lifting pin8 of U3 and confirming no connection to L5. That 
left C6 as the remaining component on that line and its removal restored 
a much healthier 2.7k resistance to ground on that line as formed by 
R16, R8 and R9 around Q3 noted above.


I don't have any of the microscopic 0.1uF capacitors used in this 
location, are they 0402? but I have a good selection

[Elecraft] K3 died again

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

My K3 is quite an early unit, S/N 298. Recently upgraded with new synths 
KRX3A and KXV3, I also have a P3 connected to the radio. A while back it 
failed with a shorted smd capacitor on the K3REF board causing loss of 
TX bias voltage. Today it has lost both receive and transmit and I am 
thinking it might be from the same module. Here's the situation.


Rig powers on and appears to work normally except soft noise from the 
speaker, no band noise to speak of and no signals. P3 shows plenty of 
signals, S9 plus on FT8 freqs but nothing heard other than soft noise. 
Tuning works as signals move in the band scope. No sub receiver signals 
either and no TX output. Have not checked transverter output but expect 
to find nothing there.


P3 take off at IF output so everything is clearly working up to there. 
DSP seems to be working as width and shift cause the expected changes in 
audio. S meter reads dead zero, no movement.


About the only common point I can see is the K3REF board so it would 
appear a second failure on this module. Since this is where I had to do 
earlier work I wouldn't put it past being a user inflicted fault, but 
that repair was a month or more ago.


Anyone care to have a guess or share thoughts?

Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-K3] K3S to be discontinued

[Martin Sole]

I've been in aviation ground comms pretty much my whole working life, 
now about 43 years, and apart from the odd mobile radio just about every 
bit of kit runs off regular single phase AC from 100-250 volts 50/60Hz 
plus DC at nominally 24 volts, these days often specified as 28 volts in 
line with solid state PA device requirements. Pretty much every GATR or 
TRACON site that provides a DC supply does so either at -48 volts for 
the phone line (and voice switching) systems or 24/28 volts for the 
comms radios often deriving the 24 from the 48 volts supply.


I recall some airfield navigations aids, ILS/DME that had a nominal 12 
volt backup supply but I think that was only some oddball stuff, 
certainly all the equipment I have actually worked on has been 24/28 volt.


Interestingly Icom makes a vehicle radio for air band use 118-137MHz 
about 5 watts carrier so around 20 watts pep. This radio is both 13.8 
and 28 volts capable. It senses when the supply gets about about 14-15 
volt and switches in a buck converter (I guess). Other than small cars 
and pick-up trucks most airfield vehicles are also 24 volt.


I think from a ham shack perspective, going to 24 as opposed to 12 volts 
should not be a big deal. Two batteries in series instead of one. 
Charging in parallel or series as you like. In those same comm site 
systems most of the DC supplies are provided by banks of 2 volt cells 
all racked together and feeding either a direct DC connection to 
equipment or to a UPS. Twice the voltage means half the current with the 
added benefit of half the IxR losses in any given cable. Given the 
impact of solar energy systems maybe not too long before houses get 
built with dedicated battery rooms :)


So far as amateur radio design goes a lot of the top line, for the day, 
AC mains powered base station radios have used 24/28 volt final stages, 
TS930/940/950, IC781, FT1000. I'm sure their modern equivalents do the 
same. Though it does seem that the AC powered base station radio is much 
less common these days, I attribute that less to the wishes of the 
market and more the costs/demands of testing and certification in our 
more risk averse world.


I think it would be a reasonable design goal to have a radio that has  
low level 10 watt output from on the base unit, with a plug in 100 watt 
12 volts powered PA unit or an equally plug in 100 or 200 watt 24 or 48 
volt PA, use of which would necessitate a different supply but could 
likely include on board the down converter for the rest of the radio. I 
think all of that should be pretty much achievable technically. Not sure 
if the market would be smart enough to recognise the benefits though.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 06/11/2019 04:37, lmarion wrote:
The  FAA still uses 13.6 volt AM  around the world, even the Western 
air defense com is same.
The Huge power UPS legacy sytems are part of the same old standard 
that won't die.


leroy  ab7ce


On 11/4/2019 1:24 PM, Rick Bates (WA6NHC) wrote:

Perhaps since that is the standard voltage for cars, trucks, RVs and 
other

vehicles.

Commercial communication base-station equipment has been standardized at
-48 volts(*) for quite a while and actually needs to use a voltage 
converter

for the odd-ball +12 V or 120V AC equipment that has to be run.

(*) -48 volts has been the telephone industry standard since Ma Bell 
was a

teen-ager!

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
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Re: [Elecraft] Transceivers vs operators

[Martin Sole]

Snipping bits. Some good points.

On 02/11/2019 11:31, Jim Danehy wrote:

Unfortunately you can tune the bands and not hear a CW signal. Hit the FT 8 QRG 
and there are stations.
I've pretty much come to detest FT-whatever for the apparent demise of, 
other what I consider more real modes :( I have to have a certain amount 
of faith though that sunspots will help. Even so ZD7 last night on 15 
for a new one so it's not all bad prop, unfortunately a phoney (SSB) 
contact.



I can read a book / Newspaper and listen to a 45 wpm CW signal. I hear CW 
Contesters but they use keyboards to send CW. They can copy calls but don’t ask 
them a question at QRQ speed. Some can copy but not many.
Some personal shame here. I can pretty much contest and work dx, but 
proper cw contacts still scare the bejesus out of me. I refuse to give 
in though, I'm working up to calling CQ more as well, got to be active.

A transceiver is not the most critical element in a station. It is the brain. 
You can’t upgrade brains.
I disagree, time, training, commitment and focus do help. That said I 
lack all of these it seems ;)

My brain operates at a very fast speed too.
When it becomes a reflex it is like human speech. It is after all just a 
different sound. That takes years to acquire
At almost 60 I doubt I'll achieve those lofty heights but giving up is 
not an option either.

Just a different perspective. It is almost 70 years of experience too.

I own a K2, K3, KX2 and KX3. My DXCC TOTAL is 370. I have not used a beam in 
the last 30 years.

It’s the operator ! !

Jim
W9VNE/VA3VNE


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 RFI on 12m

[Martin Sole]

I use a C3 up at 80 feet it works quite well. I have not really spent a 
lot of time on 12m, really no activity here to make it worthwhile but on 
17m it works rather well despite not being a particularly good match. I 
fixed that by measuring the actual impedance at the end of my feeder 
then adding a foot or so of feeder and cutting a shorted stub to create 
a good match. In my case it's very close to perfect but anything less 
than 1.5:1 I would consider excellent.


An antenna analyser and 5 minutes with the excellent SimSmith program 
can do wonders for your matching worries. Properly sorted at just the 
right point on the feeder with an antenna switch a tee piece and a few 
stubs you could probably get a good match on a bunch of bands though I 
suspect the losses might be a bit high if you try 40m, eek!


The C3 on 17m certainly has directivity albeit 180 degree from the 
regular 20-15-10 antenna.


Martin, HS0ZED






On 25/10/2019 03:08, eric norris via Elecraft wrote:

My Force 12 C3 antenna is not resonant on 12m.  Using the K3 barefoot, the 
internal atu tunes the antenna fine.  Bypassing the K3 atu, but still running 
barefoot into the KPA1500 atu, the KPA atu loses it's mind and goes in and out 
of TUNE mode uncommanded.  Even though the KPA has found a match, trying to 
transmit through it at the 100w level is impossible because of the constant 
retuning.
I have put my small collection of mix-31 ferrites on the antenna output, input, 
and KPA control line at the KPA, each at a time, with no success.  Any ideas?  
I would like to be able to run the KPA at least a few hundred watts to have the 
proverbial snowball's chance to break the VP6R pileup on 12m CW.
Any useful comments appreciated.
73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] Center-fed antennas

[Martin Sole]

Ha ha, that's a good one, I too have a 20dB callsign. Not always but I'm 
sure on occasion it helps. I often get 10 to 20 over nine reports 
running 100 watts to a 2 element (Force 12 C3 @ 24m) from Europe when 
more powerful stations from there make only 5-6 to 5-7 here.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 11/10/2019 19:32, Wes wrote:
I don't suppose your callsign has anything to do with the success of 
your antennas.:-)


Wes  N7WS

On 10/10/2019 10:54 PM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Things I’ve learned by experience:

In 63 years as a ham, I’ve had several :-) HF antennas. The ones that 
gave me the greatest overall satisfaction have been balanced, 
horizontal antennas. The worst have been verticals with inadequate 
radial systems or low random-length wires. Inverted Vs with angles 
less than 90 degrees between the wires are not much good, either.


There is no simpler way to make an efficient multiband antenna than 
to feed a dipole of at least 1/2 wavelength at the lowest frequency 
with open wire line. With some care in choosing the length of the 
line, a 1/4 wave dipole can work almost as well. I’ve worked over 300 
countries on CW in the last 5 years on the bands from 40-10m with a 
10m long rotary dipole, in an urban area (it is up 35m on a building 
and I run a kW, I admit). I regularly bust pileups on 40m with it.


1:1 baluns work to feed open wire lines, but can become inefficient 
in some circumstances and heat up. It’s possible to solve this by 
compensating for reactance with a pair of capacitors or inductors 
before the balun, but a better solution is a true balanced antenna 
tuner.


“True Ladder Line” is a good product, but it’s easy to make your own, 
and you can use no. 12 (2 mm) wire for lower loss.


Sometimes a 4:1 balun may give a better match, but it will be less 
efficient (heat) and do a poorer job of keeping RF out of the shack.


Nothing has worked better for me at cleaning up RF in the shack than 
an old Johnson Matchbox, a true balanced tuner.


Victor 4X6GP


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RX ant without KXV3?

[Martin Sole]

Hi Ilya,

This might be possible. Take a look at it he K3 schematics. Before I found a 
KXV3 I was considering this, certainly the IF out. 

As I recall on the main board there is a connector with the rf in and out. 
These are jumpered on the main board when no KXV3is fitted.

Then there should be a control signal to switch the relays for rx antenna 
routing. 

I think if you are reasonably technically proficient you can produce a way to 
make this work for you. You can probably do away with the relays if you use a 
jumper or manual switch when you don’t want the rx in-outfunction.

Martin, HS0ZED


Sent from my iPad

> On 4 Oct 2019, at 03:10, Ilya  wrote:
> 
> Hi mates!
> 
> Is there a way to connect an RX antenna without using a KXV3 option?
> I've got an IF-output socket connected directly to P86 on RF board on one
> of my K3's, maybe there is a similar way for an RX ant?
> 
> Thanks and 73!
> Ilya R3XA
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Re: [Elecraft] Not seeing my messages ???

[Martin Sole]

Thanks to Keith and Grant, it made me dig into the depths of Gmail. I 
enabled viewing of the Spam folder, off by default it seems, and set a 
filter to be sure anything from the reflector or me is not sent to the 
spam folder. Hopefully I will see this one back in due course.


Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED




On 29/09/2019 09:58, Keith N6JPA wrote:
Have you checked your junk or spam or trash folder on your e-mail 
server account?



On 9/28/19 6:06 PM, Martin Sole wrote:

Hi,

I checked my mailman settings for this list and have enabled the option

*Receive your own posts to the list?*

Despite this I do not receive my own messages. Have I missed a 
setting elsewhere? It only happens on this list.



Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 LPA failure, again

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

So I had some success in fixing this and thought I would write it up 
here briefly for future reference.


Short version
C6 on the K3REF module had become a 12 ohm resistor.

Longer version
Finding the 7T line only going to 3.5 volts or so was suspicious. 
Measuring the resistance to ground of that line showed about 20 ohms 
where the 7 volts is generated at U11 on the RF board, very suspicious. 
The first step then was to remove any removable item that has a 
connection to the 7T line. That's most modules in the K3. Checking the 
resistance of the 7T line each time I removed a plug in module showed 
the fault to be somewhere on the K3REF module. The 7T line on this board 
goes to Q3 via R16, R8 and R9 and also to Q2 and U3 via L5. Measuring 
either side of L5 showed  lower resistance on the Q2 and U3 side, now 
around 12 ohms as opposed to 14 or so at pin 3 of P75. Focus then was 
directed at Q2 and U3 as likely culprits being active devices likely 
more prone to failure but removing Q2 showed no change nor did very 
carefully lifting pin8 of U3 and confirming no connection to L5. That 
left C6 as the remaining component on that line and its removal restored 
a much healthier 2.7k resistance to ground on that line as formed by 
R16, R8 and R9 around Q3 noted above.


I don't have any of the microscopic 0.1uF capacitors used in this 
location, are they 0402? but I have a good selection of 1206 parts and 
being smaller than the chokes on this board I considered it a suitable 
change. The board mounts very close to the chassis so size is critical.


All restored and the rig is back to normal working order. I don't know 
if these capacitors are prone generally to such failures but at least it 
was on a plug in board so easy to narrow down.


So that was a fun Saturday afternoon for an hour or so, hopefully the 
radio will keep on working well now.


Martin, HS0ZED

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[Elecraft] Not seeing my messages ???

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

I checked my mailman settings for this list and have enabled the option

*Receive your own posts to the list?*

Despite this I do not receive my own messages. Have I missed a setting 
elsewhere? It only happens on this list.



Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 LPA failure, again

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

Might have been a bad choice of title!

Indications are the 7T transmit bias line is faulty somewhere. 7R is 
normal, 6.8-6.9 volts, but the transmit 7T line is very low, around 3.8 
volts. I suspect this is the cause of no power out anywhere as the 
signal switching is not working. The 7T line reads a mere 20 ohms to 
ground so I suspect a failure somewhere in what hangs from that line. I 
guess I will just have to work through it.


Maybe there are some known weak points someone might mention.

Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 LPA failure, again

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

About 18 months ago both Q4 and Q5 the output devices in the LPA of my 
early K3 failed. I suspect this was partly my fault, trying to drive an 
amp known to take off and be generally unstable. I replaced the 
transistors and though at the time I had no hard and fast bias setting 
data the radio had worked fine until just now.


Seemingly out of the blue and having made several short transmissions it 
just coughed on 30m and died. No output of any sort from 0-110 watts and 
no indication that any power is being produced anywhere. And unlike last 
time there is no output at the XVTR out socket either. I think I have 
this enabled correctly with XV1 on, XV1RF 144, XV1 IF 28 and the power 
set to L1.5. With the band set to 144 I would expect to see adjustable 
power up to 1.5dBm at the XVTR out socket but nothing doing on the 
direct input of my LP100A.


Is this a known issue?

I did measure the fets. Several hundred ohms drain to source and several 
kilohms gate to source in circuit. 13.8 volts on the drains and a couple 
of volts bias when keyed. So it seem more like a lack of RF drive.


Where next?

Martin, HS0ZED



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 original - ALC erratic

[Martin Sole]

I don't propose to know the full details but I would assume that being 
an SDR the K3 digitises the audio at some point. If the sampling rate 
and the audio frequency have the right relationship then you can expect 
to see those fluctuating effects. I have seen this when making 
distortion measurements on AM radios since the sampling rate and the mod 
are not phase locked these odd aliasing type effects occur. Moving the 
modulation frequency even just a few Hz is usually enough to achieve a 
rock steady reading.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 16/09/2019 19:09, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
With my K3S I do find there is a relationship or interaction with the 
scan rate of the ALC display and the frequency of the tone supplied by 
FT-8.   Specifically 1500 Hz will appear to have fluctuating ALC 
display while the actual level is not changing. By setting the tone, 
TUNE is a good application to do this, to some value higher or lower 
than 1500 Hz will eliminate the display fluctuations.   WSJT defaults 
to 1500 Hz for TUNE mode.


Also if the Line Gain set via the MIC level control is less than 25 or 
so, the granularity of the adjustment becomes critical.   It is 
suggested to lower the PWR slider on the WSJT application and raise 
the value for the Line Gain to some value between 30 and 40.  This 
also applies to the value of SPKR level from the computer.  Again 
typically 30 to 40 are good values giving smooth level resolution and 
changes.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 9/15/2019 10:28 PM, David Bunte wrote:

Jim -

I have no answer, but mine has always been extremely critical. I can 
set it

for 4 bars... and it won't budge... but I can't set it for the 5th bar
blinking... it goes from 4 solid to 5 solid no matter how much I play 
with
the various level controls. I don't do a lot of digital work, so I am 
not
really too concerned. There may be something I am missing, but I just 
leave

it at 4 bars and hope for the best.

Dave - K9FN

On Sun, Sep 15, 2019 at 11:25 PM Jim Miller 
wrote:


K3 original - ALC erratic

Noticeable on digital mode(s?) (FT8).  The ALC  - set at 4 solid and 
5th
flashing - is far more critical than I remember. Seems like I could 
easily

set it exactly where I wanted it and it would stay there.  Now not so.
Just wondering what can affect the adjustment to where it will drop 
to 2
bars sometimes and the small change of the "mic" gain will make it 
higher

than wanted.  Not sure it is a continuous condition.  Just far more
critical
than usual.

Thanks, Jim KG0KP





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 original - ALC erratic

[Martin Sole]

Sounds like the audio level into the radio has changed.

Martin, HS0ZED



On 16/09/2019 10:23, Jim Miller wrote:

K3 original - ALC erratic

Noticeable on digital mode(s?) (FT8).  The ALC  - set at 4 solid and 5th
flashing - is far more critical than I remember. Seems like I could easily
set it exactly where I wanted it and it would stay there.  Now not so.
Just wondering what can affect the adjustment to where it will drop to 2
bars sometimes and the small change of the "mic" gain will make it higher
than wanted.  Not sure it is a continuous condition.  Just far more critical
than usual.

Thanks, Jim KG0KP

  

  


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[Elecraft] It's no KX4 but...

[Martin Sole]

Link

https://twitter.com/ohmiya599/status/1167354642478448640

For the link averse. This is a link to JJ3JHP's twitter feed ( 
@ohmiya599 )and shows a video at the Tokyo ham fair taking place.


You need to watch the video, which is really just the little box in the 
middle of the video.


New Icom IC-705, a QRP IC-7300.

With a very KX'y form factor. Well immitation is flattery indeed.

More here

https://dx-world.net/new-icom-ic705/

and here

https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/new-icom-radio.670271/page-7

Enjoy

73
Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] It's no KX4 but...

[Martin Sole]

Link

https://twitter.com/ohmiya599/status/1167354642478448640

For the link averse. This is a link to JJ3JHP's twitter feed ( 
@ohmiya599 )and shows a video at the Tokyo ham fair taking place.


You need to watch the video, which is really just the little box in the 
middle of the video.


New Icom IC-705, a QRP IC-7300.

With a very KX'y form factor. Well immitation is flattery indeed.

More here

https://dx-world.net/new-icom-ic705/

and here

https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/new-icom-radio.670271/page-7

Enjoy

73
Martin, HS0ZED


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Band Stacking Registers

[Martin Sole]

Thanks for that, guess I just missed that button amongst all the other 
eye candy :)


Martin, HS0ZED




On 31/05/2019 20:04, Wayne Burdick wrote:

When you tap the MODE switch (above the VFO), a list of all primary modes and 
data modes comes up on screen. You can then select one. We'll also provide an 
alternative behavior for the MODE switch for ops who use only CW and SSB (for 
example): tapping MODE will just alternative among 2 or 3 specific modes. This 
will eliminate the need to tap the mode buttons on-screen.

The *hold* function of the MODE switch is "ALT", as on our other rigs. This 
alternates between USB and LSB, CW-normal/CW-reverse, AM/AM-sync, etc.

Each VFO has its own mode identifier. This clearly shows which mode you're in, 
including data submode (e.g. FSK-D).

73,
Wayne
N6KR




On May 31, 2019, at 9:32 AM, Martin Sole  wrote:

Okay this sounds a reasonable compromise to me for band selection and band 
stacking.

What about mode selection?

Tnx,
Martin, HS0ZED


On 31/05/2019 19:16, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi Dave,

Tapping BAND brings up a set of band-stacking switches on-screen, one for each 
band (including WARC bands), plus one for general coverage, one for 
transverters, and one for most-recently-used frequency memories.

The advantage of doing this on the LCD rather than with hard switches is that 
we can provide different arrangements depending on the operator's needs. For 
example, the op may want more transverter controls, may not use the WARC bands 
during contesting, or might prefer to dedicate one or more switches to specific 
frequencies. If a new band is allocated in the future -- perhaps limited to a 
subset of countries -- we'll be able to add it with a software update.

Band-stacking depth will be adjustable.

73,
Wayne
N6KR






On May 31, 2019, at 9:00 AM, dhhdeh  wrote:

I owned a K3 from February 2008 until mid-2015.

One of the its UI features that I could never warm up to was the lack of 
dedicated band switching buttons and multiple band stacking registers.

Can someone please give some insight on how the band button below the K4 screen 
works and its capabilities?

Thanks and 73 de N1LQ-Dave


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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Band Stacking Registers

[Martin Sole]

Okay this sounds a reasonable compromise to me for band selection and 
band stacking.


What about mode selection?

Tnx,
Martin, HS0ZED


On 31/05/2019 19:16, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi Dave,

Tapping BAND brings up a set of band-stacking switches on-screen, one for each 
band (including WARC bands), plus one for general coverage, one for 
transverters, and one for most-recently-used frequency memories.

The advantage of doing this on the LCD rather than with hard switches is that 
we can provide different arrangements depending on the operator's needs. For 
example, the op may want more transverter controls, may not use the WARC bands 
during contesting, or might prefer to dedicate one or more switches to specific 
frequencies. If a new band is allocated in the future -- perhaps limited to a 
subset of countries -- we'll be able to add it with a software update.

Band-stacking depth will be adjustable.

73,
Wayne
N6KR






On May 31, 2019, at 9:00 AM, dhhdeh  wrote:

I owned a K3 from February 2008 until mid-2015.

One of the its UI features that I could never warm up to was the lack of 
dedicated band switching buttons and multiple band stacking registers.

Can someone please give some insight on how the band button below the K4 screen 
works and its capabilities?

Thanks and 73 de N1LQ-Dave


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Re: [Elecraft] RCA Connectors i.e Phono Plugs

[Martin Sole]

Never were in UK to my knowledge, we always called them phono plugs and 
sockets.


Jones connectors were always the black cased multi pin connectors with 
rectangular blades, usually some at right angles to others. Think FT101 
power connector.


I think Cinch was a manufacturer of Jones connectors at one time. Cinch 
belongs to Belfuse now I think and they still make a lot of military 
grade connectors, not Jones connectors though I suspect.


Here's an interesting history of the Jones connector found in a mail 
back in 2012 on the Gearslutz web board.

https://www.gearslutz.com/board/geekslutz-forum/673980-cinch-jones-connector-whats-deal.html


Martin, HS0ZED



Hi. I'm not sure how i found this web site, but let me try to answer the 
question.


My grandfather invented the first Jones Plug . I believe it was in the 
early 1930's. His name was Howard Bevan Jones. He also manufactured lots 
of different kinds of Jones plugs, with a company based in Chicago that 
bears his name. At the height of the company's existence, it had about 
200  employees. the 
early catalogs have LOTS of Jones Plugs.


At some point, Howard B. Jones and Co. was bought by Cinch 
Manufacturing. For a number of years, the plugs were still called Jones 
Plugs, but later on they were sold as Cinch Jones Plugs.


I , and others in my family, have old catalogs, photos of the whole 
group of company employees, and lots of other memorabilia. My uncle, 
Howard's son-in-law, tells tales of driving all over the Midwest to sell 
them. Very entertaining. this uncle died at age 100 a few years ago.


I have tried in vain to find out a lot more. Cinch Mfg. was no help. 
Even the family was quiet about what actually transpired in the early 
days. Family lore has it that Howard also invented, and his company 
manufactured, a device in slot machines that allowed the owners of the 
machines ( casino owners, presumably) to adjust the odds of winning. You 
can extrapolate whatever conclusions you find interesting from this 
information.


Howard also invented the child's toy called the Hootnanny. It was widely 
used, and is available from time to time on eBay 
.


I could go on further, but perhaps this answers your question. I will be 
interested if any other comments arise.


Michael Bevan Jones






On 19/04/2019 08:23, Alan wrote:





From Wikipedia:

"An *RCA connector*, sometimes called a *phono connector* or (in other 
languages) *Cinch connector*, is a type of electrical connector 
commonly used to carry audio and video signals."


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector

It was news to me that an RCA phono connector is also known as a 
"Cinch connector".  I think you're right that it must be a name used 
in Europe.


Alan N1AL


On 4/18/19 1:30 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
The Nanokeyer is the creation of Oscar, DJ0MY.  It's possible that 
the RCA Phono connector is called a "Cinch" connector in EU or DL, 
but in the US [and I believe Canada], it is quite distinct from the 
"Cinch-Jones" connectors, which I find are still available from the 
several sources I checked.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 4/18/2019 1:08 PM, Gwen Patton wrote:
I just built a Nanokeyer last night, and the connections for keyer 
and PTT
are both RCA jacks. However, in the documentation, they are referred 
to as
"cinch connectors". When cataloging the parts prior to building, I 
had to
look in the construction pictures to verify what kind of connector 
was a
"cinch" connector. I was rather surprised to see that RCA connectors 
have a
different name now, but RCA hasn't been a thing for a long time now 
so I
guess it was inevitable, seeing as it is listed as having gone 
defunct in

1986.

...
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Using a K3 to route antenna signals to external devices...

[Martin Sole]

I've been playing with this sort of setup recently. I have a K3 with a 
KXV3 and an SDRPlay RSP1. For my usage I find that theP3 is a better 
option and when I want the display on the PC I have the RSP1 connected 
to the P3 IF Out and use the software set to accommodate it is working 
at a fixed IF.


I tried connecting the RSP1 with a tee piece and two short pieces of 
coax to have a separately tunable third receiver but found a lot of 
unwanted responses on the SDR receivers display. Although I did not 
investigate very far, switching back to the much more acceptable P3 IF 
out technique in short order, I can only presume leakage from the K3 is 
the cause.


It could be that I had things 'set wrong' so please feel free to comment 
but although an impedance matching splitter might not be a necessity it 
seems to me at least that some sort of buffer ahead of the SDR might 
well be.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 09/04/2019 03:06, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
A few months ago someone asked how to move the antenna signal coming 
in on the main antenna connector of a K3 to an external SDR via some 
connector in the rear of the K3.


The answer indicated connecting the SDR antenna to some connector in 
the rear of the radio, and pressing some number of front panel keys to 
route the signals from the antenna to the SDR...


Can someone point me at that post, or tell me how this is 
accomplished? The RF Signal flow on the K3 has always eluded me.


Also, is the output from the K3 at zero or close to zero when 
transmitting? i.e. is it safe for the SDR?




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Re: [Elecraft] Stupid question: key beep

[Martin Sole]

John,

Go to CONFIG then scroll to SW BEEP. Rotate the vfo A knob for on or off 
(alternates)


Martin, HS0ZED


On 04/04/2019 22:53, John Simmons wrote:
I have two K3s. The first one emits a beep in the speaker or headphone 
whenever a button is pushed. The second one doesn't. I can't find 
anyplace to turn the function on. Is there a button or menu setting 
that I'm missing?


73
-John NI0K
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Problem with Filters

[Martin Sole]

My two narrowest filters have CONFIG -> FLx GN set to 6dB as opposed to 
0dB for the others. Press the number keypad to select the appropriate 
filter.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 02/04/2019 20:29, Ray Spreadbury via Elecraft wrote:

I have recently fitted a Sub Receiver & some additional filters to my new to
me K3S. I now have in the main RX, a 6K for AM, a 2.8K, 2.1K, 0.4K & 0.25K.
In the sub RX there is a 2.8K, 2.1K, 0.7K, 0.4K & 0.25K. I have a problem
with the 0.4K filter position in both receivers. Between about 0.45 & 0.35
in both receivers there is an immediate drop in volume, still copyable but
not working correctly.

Does anyone have any ideas what the problem may be?

73

Ray G3XLG

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Will there be a K4

[Martin Sole]

How many can they sell is probably a big question.

I would suggest there are 3 main groups of amateur radio buyers:

1. Will always buy the newest greatest Elecraft (Kool Aid guys)
2. Already have a K3(S) whatever, fully loaded, good enough, not looking 
to buy new.

3. Wouldn't buy K3S because...

Group one will already sign up for it, probably pre-ordering as is the 
Elecraft way. Elecraft only has to change the badge for this group.


Group two are not going to buy, at least some anyway, others may be 
convinced to move from group two if there is enough of a differential 
with existing products.


Group three is the probably the primary target and to do this it needs 
to be a product that does what previous products have not, to some 
greater or lesser degree.


With a fully flexible, up-gradable, architecture such a product needs to 
start at a price where it looks attractive against similar spec 
competition. A premium added for its ability to be turned into a top 
tier radio. At the high end for the fully loaded gold plated edition I 
thing nobody has gone there yet. FT9000/IC7851/Flex6700M/Hilberling? 
really they only were bigger fatter radios $15k seems possible.


Martin,HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] Will there be a K4

[Martin Sole]

Well since you asked and made this sort of official, here's a few 
things, though in no particular order of merit:


Integrated 7” (or bigger) panadaptor with touch screen.

‘Proper’ band stacking registers.

Equal sized vfo knobs for A and B.

Individual mode buttons.

AGC, NB, NR all with front panel controls adjustable on the fly.

More digital mode integration, built in FT8 with up-gradable software as 
digi modes develop.


Integrated PSU for 100-250 Vac.

50V minimum PA.

Ground Breaking earth shattering TX IMD.

Using the built in touch screen full descriptive menu.

Bigger rotary controls with more space.

RF performance equal to or better than best of the best.

Modular design with bare bones to fully loaded capability.

PA options from 10 to 500 watts fully integrated with ATU (KPA500/KAT500).

I/Q output.

Proper base station radio without concern for portability (K3S is 
already the leader there).


More extensive API giving ability to do literally everything the radio 
can do from a computer.


Removeable head so the base radio can be remoted and the control head 
used from where you need to be.


More ‘And’, less ‘Either or’ (Mic/Line selection level etc).


Martin, HS0ZED




On 25/03/2019 07:14, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

Inquiring minds want to know:
What would you all like to see as a “K4” ?

Eric
elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Can anyone share a picture K3 with KPA1500

[Martin Sole]

I have not seen, and google did not reveal a picture of a K3 with a 
KPA1500 alongside. Plenty of the KPA500 with a K3 but none of the 1500. 
I would like to see the amp and radio side by side both with the tilt 
bail raised and lowered. Anyone have a picture they could share, or 
maybe a QRZ page with them on?


Thanks

Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] LP-100 software

[Martin Sole]

I use the free version of VSPE (Virtual Serial Ports Emulator). Use the 
TCP Server and TCP Client. You don't need to specify the Interface IP in 
the server setup. Just point the TCP Client tothe IP address of the 
machine running the TCP server and make sure the port is the same on both.


If you have any firewalls operating between the machines you may need to 
open the ports that you use in the TCP Client Server.


Works for me.

Martin, HS0ZED



On 25/01/2019 11:41, Jorge Diez (CX6VM-CW5W) wrote:

Hello

Anyone use a server/client software to see remotely the measurements of LP-100 
digital wattmeter? (SWR and PWR)

What are you using?

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

Enviado desde mi iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Urban stealth HF: Inside-the-backpack loop antenna?

[Martin Sole]

Hook it up to your KPA1500 and you've got whole house illumination!

Martin, HS0ZED



On 23/01/2019 13:11, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Up the power to 100 W and you’ve got a personal heating appliance. Awesome.

“Without RF, life itself would be impossible.”

Wayne



elecraft.com


On Jan 22, 2019, at 9:04 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:



Here's another idea.

Run a wire inside your shirt from one cuff across your back and down to the other cuff.  
Wrap loading coils around each arm just above the elbow.  Feed the "dipole" in 
the center at the back of your neck.

I did a quick model (assuming your arms are held straight out) with 5.5 feet total length 
and 2200 inductive ohms for each coil, with each coil 30% from their respective ends of 
the wire.  It "resonates" at around 14.15 MHz, but with only about 0.4 ohms 
real feedpoint impedance.  I assume it would take some sort of extra matching network to 
bring that up enough that a KX2 with the internal tuner could drive it.

Ignoring the effect of a person's arm, another quick calculation says that the 
arm coils would need to be roughly 11 turns of 10 gauge wire 3.5 inches in 
diameter ... unless I made a mistake, which is quite possible.

It would bring new meaning to the term "compromise antenna", but I bet it would 
be more effective than a super small loop the size of backpack frame.

73,
Dave  AB7E






On 1/22/19 12:57 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
I’ve engaged in plenty of ultralight HF pack operation, with a KX2, AX1 antenna 
and a dragged counterpoise. In wide open spaces it’s a blast. But urban 
settings with dogs, wire-eating cacti and overzealous Neighborhood Watchers can 
distract from one’s radio experience.

So, just for grins, I’d like to try something completely incognerdo: no visible 
antenna. A small remotely tuned loop (say 12” diameter) would seem to be the 
best choice, as it would fit entirely inside a small backpack. It could have  
modest efficiency while not requiring a counterpoise wire. Rigid 1” copper pipe 
formed in a square would be convenient to deploy.

The loop would be only 6 to 8” from soft tissue, so you’d want to run QRP, of 
course.  OTOH, we’re talking about HF. A cellphone by your ear is probably 
worse.

Any other antenna suggestions?

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] New DSP features?

[Martin Sole]

I find the NB in the K3 is very versatile and can usually make a difference.

I rarely use the NR, never found it much use, that goes for other rigs 
too, might just be me.


The APF was a great addition to the K3 firmware but I feel it could 
stand some enhancement, adjustable BW would be very nice and something 
to offset some of the artefacts I feel it adds as it is right now.I 
don't think it needs adjustable centre freq for use as a CW peaking 
filter as only the one freq is of interested. When the Orion added APF 
to its firmware it was variable from 300Hz down to 10Hz with adjustable 
centre frequency. Not so much for CW but a surprisingly useful SSB 
addition. Much like a sweepable EQ it can often be just the thing for 
enhancing a rough voice signal down in the noise.


Better decode capability for some of the more recent digital modes, FT8 
would seem an obvious one but how? Maybe on screen with a P3?


Has DSP hardware advanced significantly since the K3/S was designed? 
Maybe a replacement module with more recent DSP devices might allow even 
more possibilities. But maybe that's K4 land :)


Martin, HS0ZED



On 11/01/2019 06:20, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi all,

The K3/K3S and KX2/KX3 are SDRs, by definition, because they provide 
demodulation and modulation features via a DSP chip that is programmable.

Our DSP algorithms already give the user all the usual features expected of an 
all-mode transceiver, and then some:

   - DVR
   - variable passband filtering & IF shift
   - audio peaking filter (APF, for CW)
   - auto-spotting and automatic tuning (CW, PSK)
   - dual watch (KX2/KX3)
   - audio effects
   - DTMF (KX3)
   - dual-passband filtering for RTTY
   - FM subaudible tones
   - data decode/encode in various modes
   - noise reduction
   - RX and TX EQ
   - synchronous AM (K3/K3S)
   - ESSB
   - transmit noise gating
   - speech compression
   - manual notch filtering
   - autonotch

...etc.

That said, here's your chance to dream up *new* DSP features we haven't thought 
of. All suggestions will be debated by our engineering team, even those that 
appear radical or implausible at first glance.

We'll keep this to ourselves, so don't worry about being judged for tossing out 
some wacky ideas. Let's cast a broad net.

Please send all correspondence on this topic directly to yours truly.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 & Drake TR7

[Martin Sole]

It's worthwhile noting that either adjusting the internal ALC to limit 
power or providing some external means to control it is really quite 
essential with some of the early solid state and certainly many of the 
hybrid radios. Most of these radios had NO proper power control in SSB. 
Whilst the carrier control can be used to control CW power, on SSB they 
typically run wide open up to where the ALC kicks in and so only mic 
gain essentially sets power. Since that is a linear control it will 
amplify louder noises up to the ALC threshold. So your voice might 
ordinarily produce a peak of 20-30 watts if you have the control set 
just so but any noise will produce substantially more.


I don't know what the KPA500 says to 100watts + at its input, hopefully 
it is quite graceful about it.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 14/01/2019 02:10, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Marcel,

About the maximum voltage, that might be in the TR7 specifications. 
OTOH, start with the pot at a low voltage and increase it until you 
achieve the results that you want.


The K3 EXT ALC default threshold is -4.0 volts, so that may be a good 
starting point for your experiments.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/13/2019 5:19 PM, Marcel Jorba via Elecraft wrote:

  Thanks to all of for your prompt answers
On CW it works great thanks to the carrier adjustment control

On SSB: it goes to 150W out very easy
Yes it is just for fun.
The K3 is great but the TR7 is funny and special.


One last question: Someone suggested to use a 9V battery  with a pot 
to inject a constant negative voltage in to the TR7. But any idea 
about the maximum voltage?

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Re: [Elecraft] whats a updated K3 called?

[Martin Sole]

Guessing you would check the serial number first, rear panel AND menu. That 
would tell you straight off 

Sent from my iPhone

> On 11 Jan 2019, at 18:59, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> 
> Bad idea. If I purchased a used K3s and received a modified K3 I would be
> most unhappy.
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rich k3RWN
> 
> I kind of like
> 
> K3s (lower case S) is modified K3
> 
> K3S (upper case S) is the new radio
> 
> Rich
> 
> K3RWN
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: G5RV antenna

[Martin Sole]

Made me laugh. I guess Reg had other designs :)

Martin, HS0ZED


On 09/12/2018 23:44, CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft wrote:

Sorry, I said Reg, should have said Louis
David G3UNA


On 09 December 2018 at 16:30 CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft 
 wrote:


In addition, Reg was designing in the era of valve output transmitters with 
built-in pi-tank matching system, so, it was possible to match on different 
bands.  I'm sure mine worked across 80 to 10m in those days.  For 80 to 10m 
these days I use a off-centre-fed dipole with hybrid choke/transformer at the 
feed point as designed by DJ0IP for minimum common mode current.
David G3UNA


On 08 December 2018 at 16:32 Ken G Kopp  wrote:


As I've already stated … I have a copy of the original Varney
RSGB article that describes the G5RV and plainly states that
it's a 20M only antenna.

Remember, it requires an antenna tuner …

Start with a dipole …

Keep the "magic" 32' length of 300 ohm feedline.

Delete the 68' of coax.

What's left?  A "normal" open wire fed dipole, better
known as a Zepp.

73!

Ken Kopp - K0PP

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Re: [Elecraft] Data troubles

[Martin Sole]

Well done Richard. Gold star!

SYNC DT.

Don't ask, I have no idea. MMTTY demod was set correct, I use 915Hz but 
the TX audio was different, like 2125Hz.


Panic over hihi!

73
Martin, HS0ZED


On 20/11/2018 10:48, Richard Ferch wrote:

There is a narrow transmit AF filter configurable in AFSK A. If this filter
is turned on, you must keep your transmit audio frequency within the filter
bandpass, otherwise there will be nothing transmitted. Set your RTTY
software's audio frequency to match the K3's PITCH setting in AFSK A and
don't let it move around. You may need to disable AFC in the RTTY software,
and avoid the temptation to tune by clicking in the waterfall - use the
radio's tuning knob, the same as you would in FSK D.

73,
Rich VE3KI

HS0ZED wrote:

In summary, RX works fine both modes
TX works fine in DATA A
TX does not work other than trigering VOX in AFSK A.
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Re: [Elecraft] Data troubles

[Martin Sole]

So far as I am aware software shouldn't be changing. No CAT connection 
from rig to PC, just changing mode on the front panel of the K3 and 
sending tone in the LINE IN connector.




On 20/11/2018 10:36, Nr4c wrote:

Check the DATA Sub-mode. You may be thinking AFSK but the software may reset to 
FSK D and that doesn’t require audio into the sound system.

In the TX monitor, Do you hear diddles or just a single tone?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Nov 19, 2018, at 10:26 PM, Martin Sole  wrote:

Can anyone help with a quick DATA mode problem.

I've always used AFSK but it seems to have stopped working on transmit. I can 
set DATA A and then send audio from the PC into the radio. It transmits fine, 
no problem. Just switching to data mode AFSK and then sending audio. the vox 
operates as before but no modulation, no output.

In summary, RX works fine both modes
TX works fine in DATA A
TX does not work other than trigering VOX in AFSK A.

Nothing else changes other than the mode on the front panel. Line in, level all 
set the same.

Figure I must be doing something dumb.

Any help?

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] Data troubles

[Martin Sole]

Okay, but the K3 book states AFSK A mode can also be used for 
Audio-shift transmit, but is optimized for RTTY. Also the RTTY text 
decoder does not work in DATA A mode.


Martin, HS0ZED

On 20/11/2018 10:38, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
You should be operating in DATA A mode for AFSK as it is an audio data 
mode.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 11/19/2018 9:26 PM, Martin Sole wrote:

Can anyone help with a quick DATA mode problem.

I've always used AFSK but it seems to have stopped working on 
transmit. I can set DATA A and then send audio from the PC into the 
radio. It transmits fine, no problem. Just switching to data mode 
AFSK and then sending audio. the vox operates as before but no 
modulation, no output.


In summary, RX works fine both modes
TX works fine in DATA A
TX does not work other than trigering VOX in AFSK A.

Nothing else changes other than the mode on the front panel. Line in, 
level all set the same.


Figure I must be doing something dumb.

Any help?

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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[Elecraft] Data troubles

[Martin Sole]

Can anyone help with a quick DATA mode problem.

I've always used AFSK but it seems to have stopped working on transmit. 
I can set DATA A and then send audio from the PC into the radio. It 
transmits fine, no problem. Just switching to data mode AFSK and then 
sending audio. the vox operates as before but no modulation, no output.


In summary, RX works fine both modes
TX works fine in DATA A
TX does not work other than trigering VOX in AFSK A.

Nothing else changes other than the mode on the front panel. Line in, 
level all set the same.


Figure I must be doing something dumb.

Any help?

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] AX1 antenna

[Martin Sole]

Oh no !!!

Hihi

Martin, HS0ZED

On 16/11/2018 08:28, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Glad you like the AX1, Ed.



What’s next ??


You tell us :)

Wayne
N6KR




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[Elecraft] K3 crazy power output fault

[Martin Sole]

My K3F/100 S/N 298 has suffered a power output failure. Switched off 
last night everything normal and full power out as has always been the 
case. Switched on this morning and essentially nothing. The power meter 
flicks up and down like crazy. It's literally all over the shop. ALC 
shows a steady 7 bars when keyed, RF power meter on the K3 follows the 
LP100A, the odd flicker but essentially nothing. This is CW keyed at 
26wpm power meter is LP100A, then dummy load. Identical to last use 
yesterday but now its going crazy.\


What' shappened?

Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K3 Main and sub S meter readings different.

[Martin Sole]

This is hardly a significant matter but it's been bugging me. Just gotta 
know!


My K3 is an early radio S/N 298. works great receiver has 13k, 2.8k, 
1.8k and 400Hz filters . About a year ago I added a KRX3A sub receiver 
which has just the 2.7k filter. It works fine but the S meter shows 
significantly different to the main receiver.


I have done the receiver gain calibration using the K3 utility for both 
main and sub receivers and set the main receiver S meter as per the 
manual in the CONFIG menu. No settings for the sub receiver S meter???


As per the manual after adjusting, pre-amp on, S mtr nor, 50uV = S9 on 
the main receiver but sub receiver with the pre-amp on shows S9+20dB.


Varying the bandwidths and signal levels makes little difference and the 
variation between main and sub receiver S meter readings remains quite 
large.


How can I correct this to achieve similar values on both receivers?

Friends K3 with sub both of similar vintage and both with same filters 
doesn't show any variation.


Is this just down to roofing filters?

Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 Turn On

[Martin Sole]

Mine does this. The white screen has gone though by the time my finger 
comes off the K3 power button, replaced with a P3 boot loader message, 
that's also gone very quickly.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 26/09/2018 07:15, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Just purchased a NIB P3 for my K3S station.   Love it!

Question - is it normal for it to initially power on with a bright 
white screen while it loads?  This is very brief, but sure makes a 
flash.   If normal, then so be it.  It is powered from the DC jack on 
the K3S.   I always switch the station supply on first and then the 
radio.  Thus the KAT500 and P3 are powered from the same switched source.


I did update it to the latest firmware as it came to me with older 
version.


73

Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 S-meter adjustment

[Martin Sole]

Did you check the S meter calibration in the menu?

It could also be the age setting has moved a bit, I find mine is quite 
sensitive to that.

Martin, HS0ZED 


Sent from my iPhone

> On 27 Aug 2018, at 23:38, Chris Kimball  wrote:
> 
> Just took out the old K2 from storage and it works great, perhaps better than
> my memory of how to us it!
> 
> Seems like the S-meter is insensitive.  With the Preamp on the meter works
> as expected, but otherwise no indication at all, even for signals with very
> good S/N.
> 
> Is there an adjustment or parameter change to make the S-meter more
> sensitive?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Chris 
> 
> NQ8Z
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] BNC T for IF Out

[Martin Sole]

A 3dB splitter with secondary output is built in to the P3. Switch it on 
and connect your SDR of choice to the IF out connector.


I have an SDRplay RSP1 connected to mine which allows use of the 
spectrum facility in Win4K3, N1MM and DXLabs on the big screen as well 
as the P3. Being an RSP1 you can of course use any of the software that 
supports it.


Set aside a good bit of time, it's quite a rabbit hole and getting the 
settings just right is not always trivial.



Martin, HS0ZED


On 27/07/2018 08:38, Leroy Buller wrote:

Stupid Question of the Month.

Is it possible to use a BNC T to drive  P3 and a SDRPlay at the same time?
Is there enough drive to do this?

Back to your regular programming.

Lee  K0WA
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Re: [Elecraft] TS520S and KPA500/KAT500

[Martin Sole]

I had a look but couldn't see how you could do that. CW yes but couldn't 
figure it out for SSB. Did you read it in the manual?


Martin, HS0ZED


On 22/07/2018 20:29, Wes Stewart wrote:
According to the manual which is easily located online, the 
transmitter power is adjustable.


If it wasn't, a 6dB pad would do wonders.

Wes  N7WS


On 7/22/2018 6:05 AM, Martin Sole wrote:
I might be way off here but from what I recall these older vacuum 
tube final amplifier radios have output that is variable in fixed 
carrier modes such as CW but which almost always produce full output 
in SSB. You might be able to reduce output by winding back the mic 
gain but it will likely sound a bit "thin" and any loud noises over 
an above nominal speech will produce more output. When you set the 
carrier or drive control that only has an effect on the CW output, it 
doesn't set the SSB output.


I recall a common way to limit the output of these radios in SSB mode 
was to feed a dc voltage into the external ALC input of the rig in 
order to have it reduce power.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 22/07/2018 08:59, Nr4c wrote:
I want to use a Kenwood 520S with my KPA500 amp. I have the cable 
from the 520 Remote connector to amp PTT IN.


I assume I should tune up radio with dummy load and then turn Drive 
down low and switch amp to Operate. Now turn up drive to get desire 
amp output.


Now I ask, “What have I forgotten (or never knew about tube 
radios))?”  Anything else I need to pay attention to or what am I 
missing?


Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


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Re: [Elecraft] TS520S and KPA500/KAT500

[Martin Sole]

I might be way off here but from what I recall these older vacuum tube 
final amplifier radios have output that is variable in fixed carrier 
modes such as CW but which almost always produce full output in SSB. You 
might be able to reduce output by winding back the mic gain but it will 
likely sound a bit "thin" and any loud noises over an above nominal 
speech will produce more output. When you set the carrier or drive 
control that only has an effect on the CW output, it doesn't set the SSB 
output.


I recall a common way to limit the output of these radios in SSB mode 
was to feed a dc voltage into the external ALC input of the rig in order 
to have it reduce power.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 22/07/2018 08:59, Nr4c wrote:

I want to use a Kenwood 520S with my KPA500 amp. I have the cable from the 520 
Remote connector to amp PTT IN.

I assume I should tune up radio with dummy load and then turn Drive down low 
and switch amp to Operate. Now turn up drive to get desire amp output.

Now I ask, “What have I forgotten (or never knew about tube radios))?”  
Anything else I need to pay attention to or what am I missing?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


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[Elecraft] Flattery indeed

[Martin Sole]

This was posted to the Ten-Tec reflector though arguably it seems to owe 
much to the K2. Kit version or ready built, hmm.


What does it remind you of?

https://swling.com/blog/2018/05/the-mission-rgo-one-a-new-50-watt-all-mode-hf-transceiver/

Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Martin Sole]

I'm of the same mind, though a KPA1500 is more my preference to replace 
one of the aging tube monsters here.


Good stuff Sorbothane.

Sorbothane was specifically designed for shock absorption 
<https://www.sorbothane.com/what-is-a-good-material-for-shock-absorption.aspx> 
and is manufactured to outperform every other material on the market. 
What makes Sorbothane the best material for shock absorption?


 * It absorbs more than 90% of shock energy and more than 50% of
   vibration energy;
 * It performs in temperatures ranging from –20° to 160° Fahrenheit
   (–29° to 72° Celsius)];
 * It performs at frequencies ranging from 10 to 30,000 Hertz;
 * It’s damping ratio is 0.344 at 2.34 HZ;
 * It doesn’t support bacterial or fungal growth and is relatively
   unaffected by industrial solvents such as diesel fuel, kerosene, and
   hydraulic fluid;
 * It has an extremely long shelf life; and
 * It has a superior damping coefficient.

But I wonder about that temp rating :-)



On 19/07/2018 21:01, Clay Autery wrote:
Y'all are making me want to find a unit with this "issue" now just so 
I can solve the mystery


IF it is the aluminum fins "creaking" due to rapid thermal 
expansion/contraction, one possible/probably solution is a small 
Sorbothane damper attached across the fins in an appropriate spot  
Can likely be don without measurably challenging the airflow...


73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

On 19-Jul-18 08:18, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
The ticking sound is clearly the resonant aluminum heat sink fins. 
The mechanical shrinking or expanding is abrupt and resonates the 
fins much like a tuning fork.

My take on it...

Chuck
Amateur Radio, KE9UW
_
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of Martin Sole 
[hs0...@gmail.com]

Sent: Wednesday, July 18, 2018 8:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

I think it sounds "orrible!". I'm quite used to the low rumble of the
blower in my Alpha 77D but that ticking would be like Chinese water
torture to me. Listening to an individual tick it does seem to have a
ring to it. Okay the recording was perhaps not the most acoustically
perfect but it certainly does sound as if the ring is from the source
and not any sort of artifact. If it is from the source then I think you
can probably find a way to damp it. First trick will be to identify the
specific source.

I had read other comments about a ticking, always imagined it to be
minimal and essentially unobtrusive but if what you have recorded is
anything like how it sounds sat in front of it then definitely it does
sound pretty bad to me and not just in amplitude but also in its timbre,
pitch, and repetition rate.

Martin, HS0ZED


On 19/07/2018 06:25, ANDY DURBIN wrote:
I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording 
while making a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be 
found here:


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0 




One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in 
Audacity to amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first 
TX. Next the hum of the transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation 
in the background from TX moni.   As the recording progresses the 
changes in fan speed can be heard. The click are always well above 
the fan noise.


I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the 
clicks.  I took one sample at the click and another sample of the 
noise just before the click.  I then subtracted the noise from the 
click and I think I have a reasonable click signature to use as a 
baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I make in an attempt 
to reduce the clicks.


Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Martin Sole]

I think a more realistic measurement than the original, phone on the amp 
cabinet would be to place the phone on something like a tripod roughly 
where the operators head might be. That is likely to be a more balanced 
level.


That said I'm not sure that having the specific absolute level in one 
particular environment is necessarily all that useful, in this case. 
Having a number, defined in specific terms doesn't help me to feel one 
way or the other if that would impact on my operating. But if I can hear 
what Andy hears and it sounds anything like what he recorded then I 
would be looking at ways to mitigate it. Recording and amplifying the 
offending sound as much as necessary in order to identify the root would 
seem a good start.


What Andy showed is that there is a ticking sound and that sound is 
being produced by an action on one or more materials. If they can be 
identified it is possible that sound can be reduced. Whetherit is a loud 
or quiet sound is of less significance, we all hear differently.


Martin, HS0ZED




On 19/07/2018 09:31, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
All of these "relative" recordings have little to no value in terms of 
"how loud" the noise may be.   Yes, it is there. Amplify it enough and 
it will blow the side of the house out.  The phone on top of the amp 
is certainly not where ones ear may reside.


If one wishes to cite how loud a sound exists, then use a sound level 
meter and measure the noise at a specific and stated distance and 
several different axis and report the level in dB. A weighted or C 
weighted.   Also measure and state the level of the room ambient.    
Use a spectrum analyzer to quantify the nature or content of the 
sound, frequency and waveform.   Those numbers will then equate to 
something that is meaningful.   If others do the same, then there is 
contained evidence of units which may contribute to the artifact of 
concern.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 thermal clicks

[Martin Sole]

I think it sounds "orrible!". I'm quite used to the low rumble of the 
blower in my Alpha 77D but that ticking would be like Chinese water 
torture to me. Listening to an individual tick it does seem to have a 
ring to it. Okay the recording was perhaps not the most acoustically 
perfect but it certainly does sound as if the ring is from the source 
and not any sort of artifact. If it is from the source then I think you 
can probably find a way to damp it. First trick will be to identify the 
specific source.


I had read other comments about a ticking, always imagined it to be 
minimal and essentially unobtrusive but if what you have recorded is 
anything like how it sounds sat in front of it then definitely it does 
sound pretty bad to me and not just in amplitude but also in its timbre, 
pitch, and repetition rate.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 19/07/2018 06:25, ANDY DURBIN wrote:

I placed my Android phone on top of my KPA500 and made a recording while making 
a few cycles of FT8 TX/RX.  The audio files can be found here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/amfy3dz8pgl083n/AAAKi2GYripXyIDjiLpJ2hDwa?dl=0


One file is the raw recording.  The second has been processed in Audacity to 
amplify to 0 dB peak.  The file starts before the first TX. Next the hum of the 
transformer can be heard with FT8 modulation in the background from TX moni.   
As the recording progresses the changes in fan speed can be heard.   The click 
are always well above the fan noise.

I used this recording to perform some spectral analysis of the clicks.  I took 
one sample at the click and another sample of the noise just before the click.  
I then subtracted the noise from the click and I think I have a reasonable 
click signature to use as a baseline for evaluating any mechanical changes I 
make in an attempt to reduce the clicks.

Crank it up and enjoy, especially if you think it's normal.

73,
Andy k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Display (Was K2 display)

[Martin Sole]

I think the solution to that particular problem is called the TS590. 
Unfortunately it comes with some other compromises.

That said, I think a green display on the K3 would be awesome.

In a similar, slightly humorous vein I wanted to replace some dial lamps 
on an old Yaesu with LED's. I had some white LED's and some sandpaper so 
set to work creating a degree of diffusion. Happy with the result I did 
a couple more and put them in the rig. The horror show started straight 
away. The 'white' LED's were in fact multi-colour of the seizure 
inducing kind, I guess they must call them rainbow LED's they change 
colour fast, then slow, then flash all colours in rapid succession. 
Quite the impression but not quite the right effect.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 02/07/2018 04:47, Bert Craig wrote:

I occasionally pose this question. Is there any way to make the K3S display 
green like the K2?

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI

-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: Frank Krozel , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, 01 Jul 2018 12:02
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 display

Frank,

The K2 had backlighting since Day 1.  You could turn on/off the
backlighting by selecting the menu LCD Nite or Day.
For the K1, it was an option that was developed some time after the K1
was announced.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/30/2018 12:15 PM, Frank Krozel wrote:

Trying to recall (I have had some 10 K2’s) were there any that were produced 
without backlighting?
de KG9H

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[Elecraft] KH1/KH7Z on K2

[Martin Sole]

A short video on my youtube channel listening to KH1/KH7Z on 14.210. I 
worked them on the K3, with amp, but Q5 on the K2. Now to see if it real 
or...?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKZYP7RNvaA


Martin, HS0ZED


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 initial power ramp after band change

[Martin Sole]

Thanks for all the replies. At least I know I'm normal, er, well the 
radio is at least :)


Had a good time with AA CW test this weekend just in and out of the 
shack an hour or two at a time and limiting myself to the K2 at 10 watts 
whilst the K3 and big Alpha sit idle. Very good to work into EU with the 
10 watts and completed with K3EST and K7QA both of whom have uuge! 
signals here is SE Asia tonight but still my first 2 USA with 10 watts. 
It's rare to hear US stations here and more so to hear them that strong.


Martin, HS0ZED



After a band change the first dit, or two, is not at full power.
There seems to be an initial ramp up after which all is good and I don't
see any fluctuation in power. Supply is 13.5 volts when producing full
power, about 13.9 with just the receiver running. Full power current on
28Mhz is showing on the display as 2.66A. I can see the ramp up on the
bar graph, it shows one bar for the first 3-4 dots then ramps up to all
10 bars. I have confirmed the same with an external power meter.
Anything I can do about this?

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[Elecraft] K2 initial power ramp after band change

[Martin Sole]

Having a lot of fun in the AA CW test, even with my ropey CW  using the 
barefoot K2/10. Definitely the beam at 80 feet helps but still it's 
great to be working JA and others on 21 and 28 MHz with just the 10 
watts from my HS QTH. Since building the K2 it's been one of the first 
times I've been able to put it through its paces and it is a lot of fun.


A quirk I've noticed, easy to work around, but I'm curious if its just 
mine. After a band change the first dit, or two, is not at full power. 
There seems to be an initial ramp up after which all is good and I don't 
see any fluctuation in power. Supply is 13.5 volts when producing full 
power, about 13.9 with just the receiver running. Full power current on 
28Mhz is showing on the display as 2.66A. I can see the ramp up on the 
bar graph, it shows one bar for the first 3-4 dots then ramps up to all 
10 bars. I have confirmed the same with an external power meter. 
Anything I can do about this?


Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build: Requesting Tips and Tricks

[Martin Sole]

I built 7723 last year and it was an outstanding way to while away a 
good few days in the desert.  Here's a couple of things that might help 
you along:


It's not one kit it's 3. Think of it like that and keep everything 
separate. Even though you will do a minimal build on the RF board for 
test purposes it's still 3 kits.


It's not a one day build. Even if you spend every waking hour on it (you 
wont!) it still takes a fair few days/weeks/months to get through.


The book is right! Even when it's just plain wrong, it's right. Go back 
read it again, ask on here. But that build book must have been worked 
over almost 8000 times, it's right.


I couldn't find any suitable trays to organise components but I bought a 
set of small(ish) plastic pots with lids. Big enough to get my fingers 
in. I had 12 I think which was more than enough, about 4 inches diameter 
and a couple of inches deep. Keeping the lids on and marked with the 
contents helped keep from them scattering from a careless movement or 
other accident.


Keep everything as Elecraft intended. If it came in a separate little 
brown envelope, inventory it then put it back in the envelope. Keep the 
resistors on their tapes, they are in fitting order.


Get a good quality pair of flush cutters and learn how to use them. It's 
worthwhile perfecting the technique of close cutting the leads before 
soldering, makes a nice board to handle afterwards and is very very very 
necessary in the area of the main vfo encoder.


Ask questions here, it's a fantastic resource.

Last, but by no means least, enjoy! As the ads say, it's the most fun 
you have with your clothes on. Though that might depend on how you do 
your kit building :)


73
Martin, HS0ZED



On 15/06/2018 21:45, Scott wrote:
I'll be starting a K2 build in the near future after the inventory is 
complete.  A partial inventory is complete at this point.  I'm looking 
for tips and tricks for a successful build.  Right now my biggest 
problem as I see it, is how to organize all the caps and resistors to 
make the build go smooth and relatively quick.  At any rate, all 
suggestions are welcome.


Thanks in advance.

Scott
AD5HS
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF knob..

[Martin Sole]

Hmm, "the big three"?

Elecraft, Flex and who's third, Anan or Sun?

:)

Martin, HS0ZED


On 08/06/2018 23:20, Bob Gibson via Elecraft wrote:

GEE..I wonder if the big three would do that?  NOT!

    73s Bob W5RG
  


 On Friday, June 8, 2018, 11:02:10 AM CDT, hawley, charles j jr 
 wrote:
  
  


Chuck
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On Jun 8, 2018, at 9:47 AM, Michael Eberle  wrote:

I just contacted them this week for a broken AF knob and they said they were 
sending a couple at no cost.

73,

Mike KI0HA



On 6/8/2018 08:14, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Linas and all,

I don't know if the policy is still in place, but several years ago, Eric 
stated that defective knobs would be replaced at no cost.  Contact Elecraft 
support.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 6/8/2018 8:25 AM, Linas Balsys wrote:
The same is here. It is the crack in the knob, I can see it. You can try to
tighten up the screw a bit but not too much not to finaly break the knob.
If it is not completely loose you still can find the end stop while turning
very gently and slowly. The best way surely is to get the knob replaced :)
73 Linas LY2H


<>
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

[Martin Sole]

I run an early, but updated K3, and also an S3 line, among others. 
Without wanting to comment on the likely reasons I will say that in some 
situations, typically non-intensive, good signal level conditions, the 
75S3B here with a 312B4 console and that big 6x4 speaker does have a 
certain magical sound quality, even with the 2.1 mechanical filter. The 
rigs are on separate desks and not operated at the same time. I think I 
could be tempted to pull the S3 receiver and run it with the K3 side by 
side and see how it plays.


Although I have 1.5kHz and 500Hz filters in the S3 it's not such a 
hotshot CW receiver, especially not having the correct bfo offset 
crystal which means using the variable bfo. The S3 notch filter is 
nothing special I feel and of course it lacks all the other great 
benefits that the K3 has. The 2 things I really like on the S3 are the 
sound and the tuning rate, I've never been able to replicate either with 
the K3. Putting the 312B4 speaker on the K3 might be a good start though.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 04/06/2018 19:49, Henry Pollock - K4TMC wrote:

Yes, I would like to here what others can add to this thread.  One of my
past hobbies was high-end tube audio electronics, and in numerous set-ups,
they sounded superior to solid-state equipment.

So, my additional question would be...is the microprocessor
noise/distortion affecting the RF signal or just the AF signal, or both?

73,
Henry - K4TMC


On Sun, Jun 3, 2018 at 7:46 PM, Ron Genovesi  wrote:


I’m interested. Keep the thread going here

Ron Genovesi
Sent from My  iPad


On Jun 3, 2018, at 7:22 AM, Kjeld Holm  wrote:

Dear Bill,

Parts of the answer can be found at
http://www.sherweng.com/table.html
search for Collins and you will get some 3 - 5 hits.

Vy 73 de OZ1CCM, Kjeld

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: 3. juni 2018 15:17
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Compare: K3 to Collins S-line receiver

Discounting the digital capabilities such as memories, DSP, etc. and
only considering actual signal reception: I have had S-lines in the past
(dark dim past), so certainly am familier with them. However, as a point
of curiosity, how does the S-line compare to the K3 (only interested in
SSB). Basically, I am interested in how a top of the line analog
receiver does compares to a K3(S)? The question comes from a QSO
regarding the microprocessor noise of modern rigs covering and/or
distorting received signals. Offline response might be good for this, as
I am sure not many would be interested in the subject.

Thanks, Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] Ham radio as a side dish

[Martin Sole]

I can really relate to these two.

As a kid I played drums. My father taught and played pretty much all his 
life until his hearing gave out. Though my CW has never been more than 
remedial mostly the sense of rhythm and timing is mostly excellent and I 
attribute it to those early years. When I took the then GPO 12wpm UK 
Morse test the coastguard guy did comment on my good fist.


On the navaids ID I have a good one. Just recently I commissioned 2 
ILS's out in the Middle East, though primarily for the US Air Forces 
use. I had a good raport with the tower guys and would often spend time 
up in the tower. Having just programmed the ILS idents I asked a 
controller to have one of the approaching aircraft take a listen and 
report the code back to be sure it was keying okay. It seems this, to 
me, simple request caught this particular KC135 crew off guard. "Wait 
one", came back the response, a couple of minutes later, somewhat 
confused sounding they came back with a "er, well, its kinda dee dee 
doh, doh dee doh, dee dee". Took me a second or two to figure they had 
actually got it right just with no spacing. I guess they don't teach 
pilots code now either.


Though I've never worked on navaids in the US, only in Asia and EU, I've 
never done one with a voice ident, only ever CW.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 26/05/2018 19:56, Dave Sublette wrote:


  Music: I play trumpet in a couple of bands. My experience with Morse Code
has helped me (my opinion) be more precise with timing or rhythms.  I also
believe, although I'm not sure studies have proven, that ability to learn
and use Morse Code is highly correlated with musical ability.

Flying: I hold Commercial, Multiiengine and Intrument ratings.  When I was
taking lessons, flying cross country using VORs (before GPS), I would tune
to the next VOR, I.D.it by hearing the Morse identifier, and turn the
volume down.  My instructor would then lecture me on the need for properly
I.D.ing the station before turning down the volume.  I had a hard time
making him understand that those dits and dahs were telling me the same
thing the voice would have.



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Re: [Elecraft] K4

[Martin Sole]

I'll weigh in on this a little before it gets stamped on again as being, 
unfortunately, irrelevant and pointless.


I think there is a big gaping hole in the Elecraft product line. Not in 
performance terms but more in ergonomics. A K3 has been my primary radio 
for a few years now and before that an Orion, before that a TS940, 
TS830- etc etc. Performance wise there is no doubt the K3 bests them 
all, I recently built a K2 and think that's scarily good in raw 
performance terms as well. My K3 is pretty much fully kitted out and I 
have a P3 as well which is extremely useful and they're going nowhere.


From the super small super portable super capable K2 and KX3 to the 
small and portable and no less capable K3/K3S their market segments are 
well covered but KenYaeCom have surely sold enough 
TS990,FT9000,IC7800/50/51 that shows well the market demand for a 
quality high end desktop sized radio. If the pictures on QRZ are 
anything to go by not everyone operates out of a shoe box with many 
having dedicated rooms for their radio hobbies. If the shoe box is your 
limitation then the K3 is undoubtedly a superb choice but where space is 
less restricted a bit more in the way of panel acreage might well sway a 
lot more FT9000/TS900/IC78xx users I feel, not to mention those of us 
who just feel the K3 package is, for a desktop radio, just a bit too 
much of a compromise.


Key requirements on my end after considerable K3 usage. A better more up 
to date menu system that either removes or better, handles the myriad 
un-intuitive selections. There are a number of menu options which unless 
you have significant handbook familiarity lack explanation about 
additional keypad presses. There are even some for which software 
updates need to be consulted though that is a different matter. Some 
menu choices could well be better homed as front panel controls. The 
keypad is another area I find seriously lacking for a top end product. 
Again, great for the type of product it is but I find it lacking. Band 
keys, mode keys, a proper band stacking register, a better way to deal 
with the sub receiver settings, more, bigger and wider spaced control 
knobs, yes all of this needs panel space but that shouldn't really need 
to be a problem. It's possible the entire form factor could use a 
rethink, do we need a box 12 inches deep. Why not a front panel that is 
16 inches by 6 inches on a radio that is just 5 inches deep. Overall it 
would likely be a similar volume and contain just as much under the 
skin. The Orion was probably overkill with the amount of fresh air in 
every box, some careful plug in board stacking could have reduced the 
box depth by half whilst retaining the same front panel space. A good 
display with all info including the somewhat obligatory scope and 
waterfall properly integrated seems a no brainer today I guess, of 
course with a port for connection of 36 inch full 4k displays, ideally 
with different screen displays.


I like the PA options today 10 or 100 watts, not sure how many are sold 
as just 10 watt radios though. In a bigger box, something like the 7850, 
16x17x6, it should be possible to integrate the KPA500 allowing for a 
500 watt transceiver in one box.


Where space is a premium the integration of multiple controls carefully 
arranged for maximum apparent efficiency is obviously a good thing 
though I feel it can be overdone, the poor operability of the sub 
receiver is a case in point and I've had heat of the moment run ins with 
the mic gain compressor and monitor controls as well. Great when it 
works as you think of it, less so when you're acting more by feel and 
intuition doing 6 other things at once and get a mis-press.


Much of this is software, packaging and ergonomics/HMI, so far as the 
pure RF side is concerned it's clear that things are evolving still and 
it can't be long before pure wideband direct digital SDR becomes the 
mainstream.


It's hard to fault the K3 on so many levels, it's just such a great 
radio but it's by no means an unflawed or unlimited radio and there are 
areas of the ham radio business Elecraft are yet to tread.


Oh and I'd love them to do a 2-35Mhz 125 watt radio suitable for 
commercial use. So many opportunities where the options today are either 
VK mobiles or US mil spec but that really is another topic.



Martin, HS0ZED


On 19/05/2018 17:38, Stefan von Baltz, DL1IAO wrote:

Now that Eric is at the Hamvention we can not annoy him too much with mail 
overflow on this list ;-)

- I would like to see Elecraft revising the NR-function. While you can achieve 
nearly infinite noise attenuation with the K3’s NR it comes at the cost of 
signal intelligibility. At least I have failed to hit a setting for CW which 
works for me. The NR also seems to be dependent on AGC settings. With the 
IC7851’s NR at ca. 9 o’clock the band noise is cut about in half without 
affecting signals, even when they are weak. I do not miss this much in everyday 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 display versus FlexRadio

[Martin Sole]

I'm not all that familiar with the Flex stuff but in some SDR software 
display systems it is possible to adjust the waterfall sensitivity and 
contrast independent of any spectrum bandscope position adjustment. It 
is often also possible to have any signal levels indicated by such 
displays bear no relationship to any accurate level.The P3 waterfall 
contrast changes with the reference level setting which in itself 
changes with the displayed bandwidth, seems appropriate. Scale will 
adjust the sensitivity I think.


In the situation I have here where it is unusual to have any signals on 
any band at more than S7-8, nearest centre of any appreciable activity 
is several thousand miles away so mostly fairly weak signals, in this 
case I find having the waterfall in monochrome, spectrum display is 
still in colour, to be quite an advantage. It is quite possible to set 
an almost black waterfall with signals barely above the noise floor 
showing as grey marks, often much more discernible than anything on the 
spectrum display.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 13/05/2018 07:54, Jim N7US wrote:

I saw a demo last night of the FlexRadio bandscope.  It showed the noise
well above, on the Y-axis, the bottom of the display, but the waterfall
didn't show the noise, just the signals on the band.

  


When I set the REL LVL on my P3 so the noise floor is below the noise, the
waterfall is blue from the noise, making it difficult to see the signals.

  


Can someone enlighten me as to why the displays are so different?

  


73, Jim N7US

  


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Re: [Elecraft] Current Flow on Copper Strips - a Question

[Martin Sole]

I go for the Polyphaser approach. I have used and installed their PEEP 
system on multiple sites here in Thailand. High exposed sites with a lot 
of lightning. Notable over the 20 years since the first one was 
installed there is significantly higher equipment reliability of 
equipment at those sites and none of what were historically regarded as 
"typical regular failures".


The PEEP system tries to keep any surge energy outside the building. I'm 
a firm believer in not letting it inside any more than is absolutely 
unavoidable. In a lot of cases once it gets in the building it is highly 
unpredictable. Think 4 inch hole burned in pcb back plane, steel rack 
cabinet door and vapourised wall mounted fire bell.


The whole sites have very good protection systems designed primarily 
around FAA-019E standard, though I would agree with Polyphaser that some 
of what is contained in that standard is not always ideal. A lot of 
historical convention gets passed on unquestioned into some of these 
standards over the years it would seem.


Regards
Martin, HS0ZED




On 27/04/2018 21:33, John Huggins, kx4o wrote:

What's more appropriate for coaxial building entry grounding management?

This wide-strap, allegedly low inductance, approach...

   https://www.comm-omni.com/polyweb/images/pb.jpg

...or this more R56 approach...

   http://www.radio2way.net/MGB.jpg

?

73
John, kx4o

On Fri, April 27, 2018 02:21, Wes Stewart wrote:

"When skin effect is present, the current is always redistributed over
the conductor cross section in such a way as to make most of the current
flow where it is encircled by the smallest number of flux lines.  This
general principle controls the distribution of current irrespective of the
shape of the conductor involved. Thus, with a flat strip conductor (figure
reference not shown) the current flows primarily along the edges, where it
is surrounded by the smallest amount of flux, and the true or effective
resistance will be high because most of the strip carries very little
current.  (A reference to the missing figure) makes clear that it is not
the amount of conductor surface that determines the resistance to
alternating current but rather the way in which the conductor material is
arranged."




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[Elecraft] KPA3 removal

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

I am about to start replacement of the LPA output devices. To do so I 
think I first need to remove the KPA3. Once done can I just operate the 
K3 at low power to prove the LPA? I don;t have the jumper block so would 
just leave the interface block in place. I'm assuming it does much the 
same thing at low power .


Is there a procedure of any sort I can follow?
What bias current should I set R18 and R19 for?

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] 32 bit Elecraft Utility Apps

[Martin Sole]

This probably started with the Mac OS thing. My understanding is that 
post High Sierra it will be just 64 bit and they will start dropping 
support for 32 bit so very possible that on a Mac lots of (some?) 32 bit 
apps may not work.


When are we going to see 128 bit OS's :)

Martin, HS0ZED


On 13/04/2018 10:53, tomb18 wrote:

So forgive me but is it the case that the 32 bit elecraft utilities will not 
run on 64 bit operating systems? If that's the case then elecraft will release 
a 64 bit version of the utilities. If the 32 bit utilities  do run on a 64 bit 
OS then what's the point? There is no point. A 32 bit version of their 
utilities will work just as well as just fast over a rs232 connection no matter 
if the OS is 64 bit 128 bit or 256 bit. So the question is will these utilities 
not run on a 64 bit OS? They are 32 bit and run just fine on 64 bit windows.. 
73 Tom


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
 Original message From: "Thorpe, Jeffrey"  Date: 
2018-04-12  9:06 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: John Marvin  Cc: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 32 bit Elecraft Utility Apps
Yes - you are correct. It didn’t occur to me when I installed it that it 
shouldn’t run due to the different architecture.
Turns out that the first thing I installed to the fresh installation of 
Raspbian was Exagear Desktop to test with a different application (a windows 
one.) I had thought that you had to tell ED to start the 686 emulator prior to 
running an x86 app, but it appears to automatically invoke when it detects the 
different architecture trying to load. So it started the emulator and runs KX3 
Util inside it.
It isn’t perfect though - for some reason it fails to connect to 
ftp.elecraft.com with a 127 error, even though the x86 machine can go to the 
internet. KX3 Util does connect to the KX3 and can do everything else though. 
Guess I’ll have to figure out how to correct that one problem.

I expect that a some time in the not-to-distant future they will release a 
64-bit version of Raspbian. It would be nice to have a native KX3 Util program 
compiled for the Arm. Raspberry Pis just get more popular for ham radio. It 
runs the FL suite, WSJT-X, and Chirp.

Jeff - kg7hdz


On Apr 12, 2018, at 3:57 PM, John Marvin  wrote:

Unless you ran it under emulation (e.g. wine or something like that), I think 
you are misremembering. KX3 utility is currently only available as X86 32 bit 
application. It can't run natively on a Raspberry Pi.

73,
John
AC0ZG


On 4/12/2018 10:43 AM, Thorpe, Jeffrey wrote:
I don’t remember - I’ll try to look at it tonight and see how. I don’t think I 
had to do anything goofy...I’m running the latest Raspbian also.

Jeff - kg7hdz

On Apr 12, 2018, at 9:18 AM, James Austin 
> wrote:

I just downloaded and tried to run it on a Pi running the latest version of 
Raspian got the error I expected.

pi@raspberrypi:~/kx3util_1_16_6_25 $ ./kx3util
-bash: ./kx3util: cannot execute binary file: Exec format error
pi@raspberrypi:~/kx3util_1_16_6_25 $

How did you get it to run?

Jim/KA2RVO



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 apparent PA failure Update.

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

Both output devices in the LPA, Q4 and Q5, RD15HVF-1, show low ohms gate 
to source, one is 2.4 ohms the other 4.6 ohms.


Anyone have a recommended source? I don't think these are available 
locally, I'll need to get a couple shipped in from US or elsewhere most 
likely.


Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 apparent PA failure

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

I can see output at the XVTR OUT jack. Using direct input on the LP-100A 
meter it shows output varyng in sympathy with the output level control  
and a setting of L 1.00 gives pretty much 1dBm on the LP-100A. Lowest I 
can read is around -12dBm and highest about +3dBm before the K3 switches 
to H 0.1. Then on the main ant jack I see nothing.


I'm thinking this has to be somewhere between the input to the LPA and 
the output.


Does the SWR bridge need to see some output? Just wondering if something 
were fried in the the bridge so it's feeding nothing back to the 
measuring circuit does that cause the PA chain to essentially shut down?


Martin, HS0ZED


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

I see about 1.17A in receive and only 1.8A in TX TUNE mode with the the 
PWR control set at 110W.


Martin, HS0ZED


On 10/04/2018 07:38, Al Lorona wrote:

Martin,

Does the K3 draw any current from the power supply when you go into 
TUNE? If so, then maybe the power meter is bad.


If not, then there is something wrong in the DC power to the amplifier 
stages.


Al  W6LX



*From:* Martin Sole <hs0...@gmail.com>
*To:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net
*Sent:* Monday, April 9, 2018 5:36 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

Hi,

Well I've been through all of the operational settings. CONFIG : TUN PWR
is set to NOR and I can vary the power with the power control but the
output meter display stays at 0.0 and the VSWR displays only - - . I had
a settings save from about a month ago but uploading that hasn't changed
anything.

Since this affects both the 100 watt PA and the LPA I'm guessing the 100
watt PA is probably good and that the failure must be earlier on.

My next test is to look at the XVTR output as I see that is taken off
before both amplifiers to see if there is anything there.

Martin, HS0ZED


>> Hi,
>>
>> My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and
>> appears to transmit just there is no power indication on my external
>> meter or on the front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC
>> indication but no power out indication.The only thing I did different
>> was to switch off the supply before the radio, something I normally
>> never do. Having noted others having issues with that I reloaded the
>> firmware. Still no output. Starting to think that somehow the PA is
>> fried or possibly the driver as there is nothing from the 10 watt PA
>> either. Tried turning the power down and putting the KPA3 into
>> bypass. Still no power output. Not sure what else to try before I
>> tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 3 bands today no problem.
>>
>> Suggestions appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks
>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

Well I've been through all of the operational settings. CONFIG : TUN PWR 
is set to NOR and I can vary the power with the power control but the 
output meter display stays at 0.0 and the VSWR displays only - - . I had 
a settings save from about a month ago but uploading that hasn't changed 
anything.


Since this affects both the 100 watt PA and the LPA I'm guessing the 100 
watt PA is probably good and that the failure must be earlier on.


My next test is to look at the XVTR output as I see that is taken off 
before both amplifiers to see if there is anything there.


Martin, HS0ZED



Hi,

My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and 
appears to transmit just there is no power indication on my external 
meter or on the front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC 
indication but no power out indication.The only thing I did different 
was to switch off the supply before the radio, something I normally 
never do. Having noted others having issues with that I reloaded the 
firmware. Still no output. Starting to think that somehow the PA is 
fried or possibly the driver as there is nothing from the 10 watt PA 
either. Tried turning the power down and putting the KPA3 into 
bypass. Still no power output. Not sure what else to try before I 
tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 3 bands today no problem.


Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[Martin Sole]

I’m pressing TUNE. Mode VOX etc shouldn’t matter.

Martin, HS0ZED


Sent from my iPad

> On 9 Apr 2018, at 23:32, Dave Sublette <k4to.d...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Are you in CW mode? If so, is VOX enabled?
> 
> K4TO
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 9, 2018 at 12:20 PM, Martin Sole <hs0...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> Not in test mode :(
>> 
>> I get the red TX led bit the display show 0w and - - where the VSWR display 
>> would be when I press TUNE in TX NORM.
>> 
>> Martin, HS0ZED
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 09/04/2018 22:56, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
>>> Press and hold the right side of the band-switch over "Test" and make sure 
>>> you are not in test mode.
>>> 
>>> You should see the words:
>>> 
>>> "TX TEST"
>>> 
>>> or
>>> 
>>> "TX NORMAL"
>>> 
>>> It should say "TX NORMAL".
>>> 
>>> 73s and thanks,
>>> Dave
>>> NK7Z
>>> https://www.nk7z.net
>>> 
>>>> On 04/09/2018 08:31 AM, Martin Sole wrote:
>>>> Hi,
>>>> 
>>>> My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and appears to 
>>>> transmit just there is no power indication on my external meter or on the 
>>>> front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC indication but no power out 
>>>> indication.The only thing I did different was to switch off the supply 
>>>> before the radio, something I normally never do. Having noted others 
>>>> having issues with that I reloaded the firmware. Still no output. Starting 
>>>> to think that somehow the PA is fried or possibly the driver as there is 
>>>> nothing from the 10 watt PA either. Tried turning the power down and 
>>>> putting the KPA3 into bypass. Still no power output. Not sure what else to 
>>>> try before I tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 3 bands today 
>>>> no problem.
>>>> 
>>>> Suggestions appreciated.
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Martin, HS0ZED
>>>> 
>>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[Martin Sole]

Not in test mode :(

I get the red TX led bit the display show 0w and - - where the VSWR 
display would be when I press TUNE in TX NORM.


Martin, HS0ZED



On 09/04/2018 22:56, Dave Cole (NK7Z) wrote:
Press and hold the right side of the band-switch over "Test" and make 
sure you are not in test mode.


You should see the words:

"TX TEST"

or

"TX NORMAL"

It should say "TX NORMAL".

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
https://www.nk7z.net

On 04/09/2018 08:31 AM, Martin Sole wrote:

Hi,

My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and 
appears to transmit just there is no power indication on my external 
meter or on the front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC 
indication but no power out indication.The only thing I did different 
was to switch off the supply before the radio, something I normally 
never do. Having noted others having issues with that I reloaded the 
firmware. Still no output. Starting to think that somehow the PA is 
fried or possibly the driver as there is nothing from the 10 watt PA 
either. Tried turning the power down and putting the KPA3 into 
bypass. Still no power output. Not sure what else to try before I 
tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 3 bands today no problem.


Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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[Elecraft] K3 Apparent PA failure ?

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

My K3 died today, somehow. The radio works fine on receive and appears 
to transmit just there is no power indication on my external meter or on 
the front panel when pressing TUNE. There is ALC indication but no power 
out indication.The only thing I did different was to switch off the 
supply before the radio, something I normally never do. Having noted 
others having issues with that I reloaded the firmware. Still no output. 
Starting to think that somehow the PA is fried or possibly the driver as 
there is nothing from the 10 watt PA either. Tried turning the power 
down and putting the KPA3 into bypass. Still no power output. Not sure 
what else to try before I tear into it. Was going great, worked 3B7A on 
3 bands today no problem.


Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY issue (OT?)

[Martin Sole]

Rich, Jamie,

Many thanks, all good now.
It was AFSK A, just got confused as after exiting the menu it says DATA 
on the screen.


Of course it was (insert favourite name of some obscure person from 
history) law that I found out about NET shortly after posting. I guess I 
never needed that in the past as I had always used FSK. Will look into 
doing that with the K3 in future I think.


I now have it set at 915Hz as that sounds even better when trying to 
tune by ear. I'm not sure if there are any downsides to using lower 
tones but it does seem easier on the ears and to tune by.


Is there a way to set it to default to that? Honestly I've never dug 
that far into MMTTY. I'd like to set that up as part of my profile if it 
can be made to work that way.


Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED



On 17/03/2018 19:20, Richard Ferch wrote:

I'm not sure why you are using DATA A instead of AFSK A, but ...

If you don't want MMTTY to transmit on a different frequency from your
receive frequency, turn NET on - in AFSK, that will force the TX to follow
the RX. Also, you should tell MMTTY that your preferred frequency is 1275
Hz. To do this, set your HAM default to 1275.

A general rule for AFSK is: while S, turn NET on and AFC off; while
CQing, turn NET off and either turn AFC on or leave AFC off and use RIT
instead for off-frequency callers. Some software will switch the NET and
AfC settings for you automatically between run and S modes.

If you do use AFSK A instead of DATA A, you will have to change the K3's
PITCH setting to 1275-170 from the default 2125-170.

73,
Rich VE3KI


HS0ZED wrote:


MMTTY is working fine in DATA A (AFSK) receive is no problem and
transmit too provided I use 2125Hz.

I would prefer to use 1275Hz but when switching to transmit MMTTY keeps
jumping to 2125Hz. How to stop that?

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[Elecraft] RTTY issue (OT?)

[Martin Sole]

Not sure where to go with this but hope someone here can advise.

MMTTY is working fine in DATA A (AFSK) receive is no problem and 
transmit too provided I use 2125Hz.


I would prefer to use 1275Hz but when switching to transmit MMTTY keeps 
jumping to 2125Hz. How to stop that?


Thanks
Martin, HS0ZED

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[Elecraft] Another wanted KXV3/3A oh and a KSYN3

[Martin Sole]

Hi,

VE2EBK seems to have found a KXV3 easily enough, wonder if there is 
another one out there? I could certainly use it and can do PayPal easily 
with postage to a US ham address (QRZ.com verified).


Let me know what you have and would need for it.

Also want a KSYN3. Now surely there must be a bunch of these somewhere 
:) I want to put a second receiver in my K3 but honestly cannot justify 
the extra for the KSYN3AUPG at the this time, I know they're good but...


Again, let me know what you have and lets see if we can work a deal.

Many thanks,

Martin, HS0ZED


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[Elecraft] K2 S/N.7723 Lives :)

[Martin Sole]

Just to say, that 7723 is alive and kicking albeit in a bare bones QRP 
CW only format for the time being. I bought this as a way to pass a 
little time stuck out in the desert and it did the job superbly.


Initial testing went well though I am a little concerned that the 20m 
sensitivity is a little down, might just need a more careful alignment 
of the bpf. I also need to do a proper setup of the IF filters with the pc.


Back home now and on some antennas it seems to be playing nicely.

The SSB module, 160m, NB and I/O kits are on hand and will join the 
family soon.


Interesting to note the K2 was, according to Wikipedia, prototyped in 
October 1997, so that radio is 20 years old and still being produced and 
more importantly I think is still relevant. Has that bettered the 
Collins S line?


So one of the very latest K2's joins one of the earliest K3's S/N 298. 
Now I'm starting to think that might need some updating but I'm not sure 
if there have been any major upgrades to the K3, barring the synthesiser 
and the S of course.


Martin, HS0ZED



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 encoder shaft and new knob

[Martin Sole]

Thanks Don,

I received only the one felt washer. I'll request the remaining 2 :)

At initial test I had the 'not tuning problem' and fixed it with a shim 
of stiff paper. That was despite the flushest of cutting both on the 
encoder and control boards. That's a tight squeeze in there but all good 
now except for the free-wheeling knob which incidentally is a big 
improvement on the earlier one I think. A nice classy look n feel.


Thanks

Martin, HS0ZED



On 02/11/2017 14:22, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Martin,

How many felt washers did you receive with your K2 kit? - it should 
have been 3.

If you had only one, contact Elecraft support to get the other two.

With the new encoder, you must flush cut (yes right down into the 
solder) not only the leads on the encoder board, but also the Control 
Board in the area where the encoder board could make contact.
It may also be a good idea to add an insulating material like fish 
paper or a piece of plastic between the two boards.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/2/2017 6:35 AM, Martin Sole wrote:
I'm in the finishing straight for the build of my nice shiny new K2, 
it's been great fun and I'm looking forward to using it soon.


The new vfo encoder shaft does seem to be a bit too long, either that 
or the hole drilled in the knob is not sufficiently deep enough. I 
suppose the simplest solution is to add extra padding between the 
knob and panel. I'm just a bit concerned it will look a little odd 
with 5mm of wadding in there.


Is there a consensus on a best method to resolve this little dilemma?


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