Re: [Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a friend's, many miles to the north

2024-05-05 Thread Peter Hall
Hello Jorge,

Thanks for an interesting thread, which elicited some good technical replies as 
well as some undeserved and rather haughty tut-tutting, presumably about 
valuable mail column-cm: the remedy for the latter is, of course, the delete 
button - a facility with which any reader of this mailer is well-practiced at 
using.

I get the point you're making and have considerable sympathy for it: in a 
highly connected, and possibly remote, environment is it desirable for a 
manufacturer to do better than baseline digital I/O protection, especially as 
manufacturers themselves tout the remote connectivity as a selling point? I 
think it is, and I appreciate that you're not asking for magic: e.g, for 
primary lightning protection.  Any increased port robustness, including 
galvanic isolation, is worth thinking about and - most importantly - so is 
bench and field serviceability.  The all-too-common madness of entry-level 
ports on a dense motherboard is well worth avoiding!

You mention the KPA1500 and I'm also a rather far-flung user of this PA.  I 
can, and do, re-invent as many wheels as I need to in order to run safely a 
local and remote station but the KPA1500 service situation is egregious: no 
schematic and not even a decent block diagram to show port internal 
connectivity etc.

Anyway, thanks again for the topic and the opportunity to register a vote for 
more robust I/O design, better serviceability and improved documentation.  I 
hope your challenges are behind you soon!

73, Peter (VK6HP)



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Monday, 6 May 2024 1:42 AM
To: Mike Fatchett W0MU 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a 
friend's, many miles to the north

hello

To finish with this topic, I was just wondering if a device that is intended 
for use in remote stations, always connected and in some cases with no one to 
disconnect during storms, could not have a better USB connector, for example

If he tells me it can't be done, fine, my question has been answered and thank 
you very much.

time to move on to other virtues of Elecraft

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s port isolation??

2024-02-01 Thread Peter Hall
Hello Peter,

I'm not an Elecraft transceiver user so I'll defer to others on the radio 
specifics.

One thing to watch is that you're actually "seeing" the noise properly on the 
apparently high s/n port.  In other words, make sure the levels are sufficient 
throughout the analog - digital chain in order to allow a proper s/n 
calculation to be performed.  Not ensuring that is a classic way of getting an 
artificially high s/n.

73, Peter (Vk6HP)


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Peter Dougherty (W2IRT) via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, 2 February 2024 10:39 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3s port isolation??

So I have a weird situation going on with my K3s. First a bit of background:



I have been experiencing extreme powerline noise for years (this isn't about 
that), so I've been looking for ways of mitigating it on my end to at least get 
useful signals of some kind on 80 and 160. I have a K9AY loop RX antenna and a 
full-size 80m Inverted Vee at 65'. Tonight, I was switching between my Inverted 
Vee and the K9AY loop with an external noise-canceller (WIMO "QRM
Eliminator") in line. It's somewhat effective with about a 30dB improvement on 
the K9AY. But then something quite unexpected happened.

I wanted to see how low my noise floor was with this new device inline so I 
figured I'd switch to an empty antenna port (ANT-2 on the K3s). As soon as I 
pressed the button my noise floor dropped to from about -130 to -140 on my P3, 
lower than it's been in years. But I was still hearing FT8 and the 
signal-to-noise improved considerably. This is.surprising to say the least.
How am I still able to copy weak FT8 signals (and CW) with absolutely nothing 
connected to the ANT-2 port? I'm talking about copying stations in A7, V3, CT3, 
and west-coast US, not strong locals. I don't think I've ever had lowband S/N 
that good before to be honest. What is the port isolation supposed to be like 
on the K3s and is what I'm seeing normal?



Just to be clear, I disconnected my AUX antenna that I use occasionally for 
diversity RX, and my K9AY and it was still the same. Only my Inverted Vee was 
connected to the K3s. When I disconnected it everything dropped to nothing. Is 
what I'm seeing expected behaviour? And this leads to a big question. With 
ANT-2 selected for RX, (remember, there's nothing connected to the ANT-2 SO-239 
on the radio) is it possible to select a different TX Antenna? I'd be pleased 
as punch to receive in this configuration but it's not practical to manually 
switch from ANT-2 on receive back to ANT-1 for transmit.





Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT



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[Elecraft] K3s port isolation??

2024-02-01 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT) via Elecraft
So I have a weird situation going on with my K3s. First a bit of background:

 

I have been experiencing extreme powerline noise for years (this isn't about
that), so I've been looking for ways of mitigating it on my end to at least
get useful signals of some kind on 80 and 160. I have a K9AY loop RX antenna
and a full-size 80m Inverted Vee at 65'. Tonight, I was switching between my
Inverted Vee and the K9AY loop with an external noise-canceller (WIMO "QRM
Eliminator") in line. It's somewhat effective with about a 30dB improvement
on the K9AY. But then something quite unexpected happened.

I wanted to see how low my noise floor was with this new device inline so I
figured I'd switch to an empty antenna port (ANT-2 on the K3s). As soon as I
pressed the button my noise floor dropped to from about -130 to -140 on my
P3, lower than it's been in years. But I was still hearing FT8 and the
signal-to-noise improved considerably. This is.surprising to say the least.
How am I still able to copy weak FT8 signals (and CW) with absolutely
nothing connected to the ANT-2 port? I'm talking about copying stations in
A7, V3, CT3, and west-coast US, not strong locals. I don't think I've ever
had lowband S/N that good before to be honest. What is the port isolation
supposed to be like on the K3s and is what I'm seeing normal? 

 

Just to be clear, I disconnected my AUX antenna that I use occasionally for
diversity RX, and my K9AY and it was still the same. Only my Inverted Vee
was connected to the K3s. When I disconnected it everything dropped to
nothing. Is what I'm seeing expected behaviour? And this leads to a big
question. With ANT-2 selected for RX, (remember, there's nothing connected
to the ANT-2 SO-239 on the radio) is it possible to select a different TX
Antenna? I'd be pleased as punch to receive in this configuration but it's
not practical to manually switch from ANT-2 on receive back to ANT-1 for
transmit.

 

 

Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

 

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[Elecraft] KPA500 Receives Keying Signal but does not XMT

2023-12-04 Thread Peter Iverson
Here’s the problem: I’ve been successfully running a K3/KPA500/LDG AT-600ProII 
with no problems, usually USB and digital modes at about 400W out. I recently 
obtained a KAT500 and replaced the LDG tuner. I used the Elecraft 15-pin cables 
for full integration. The KPA500 follows the K3 when I switch bands, but when I 
go from STBY to OPER, the KPA500 shows no output. Neither SWR nor POWER led’s 
light up. I tried my original configuration with the LDG tuner but same problem 
occurs—KPA500 no output. I know the K3 is producing output because on STBY the 
LDG shows POWER and I’m making contacts barefoot. I’ve even tried the basic 
hookup with RCA cables but no joy. The KPA500 does show an asterisk in the left 
corner of the display when I key the K3 so it is receiving a keying signal. 
I’ve checked to make sure I have the latest firmware version and I’ve doubled 
checked to make sure that INHIB IN is DISABLED in the menu. I’m running the 
KPA500 on 240V mains. I’m hoping someone can help me solve this dilemma.

Pete
KH6GK
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Re: [Elecraft] Buying a K4 in UK

2023-08-02 Thread Peter Hall
Thanks, but I'm not in need of advice on how to conduct transactions with 
Elecraft, and I have quite clear recollections of the discussions regarding 
delivery.  In the end it's up to Elecraft whether they take on board the 
experience of international customers.

For what it's worth, my experience with Kenwood equipment shipping has been 
very good, as has been the experience with the delivery of small-parcel 
express-post items from SDRKits.

73, Peter (VK6HP).



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Thursday, 3 August 2023 11:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Buying a K4 in UK

On 8/2/2023 7:40 PM, Peter Hall wrote:
> Unfortunately, Elecraft's preferred carrier - UPS - is certainly not
> Tier-1

Elecraft is a small enough company that the issue of shipment could certainly 
be addressed when discussing a purchase. I've long heard that DHL is well 
respected in the UK. They're not well known here (although they used to be 30 
years ago, and I used them in my biz to ship architectural drawings around), 
but Elecraft will probably know how to access them.

Again, ASK! Elecraft is not like Kenwood, ICOM, or Yaesu! Anyone who's been on 
this reflector for very long knows that Wayne and Eric (who does most of the 
management stuff) are both online and read this reflector, and the company is 
online friendly. So is SDRKits (in the UK), from whom I've made four purchases 
over about ten years, all of which arrived painlessly by USPS. One of their 
people reads the support reflector for their excellent VNWA and responds 
promptly and in a very positive way to any issues.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Buying a K4 in UK

2023-08-02 Thread Peter Hall
Fred,

The workaround is to recognize in advance that the combination of USPS+Royal 
Mail, USPS+Australia Post, etc. is essentially hopeless and will lead to the 
recipient of high-ish value parcels having to do considerable work in order to 
ransom the item from the customs folks in the receiving country.  The shipping 
process works much better when a Tier-1 courier is involved, since the customs 
and taxes can be arranged and paid during the transit stage.

Unfortunately, Elecraft's preferred carrier - UPS - is certainly not Tier-1 in 
this part of the world and, in my experience, the recipient still has to do 
quite a bit of hand-holding and monitoring to make sure the import process goes 
well.  My further experience over many years of shipping high-end scientific 
and test equipment leads me to prefer DHL but, unfortunately, shipping from 
Elecraft with DHL has been deprecated when I've suggested it.

I think it'd be useful for Elecraft to pay attention to the feedback from Lower 
Spewing, Kanga Valley, or whatever international destinations are involved.  
There's not much of value in getting commentary from California!

73, Peter.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Thursday, 3 August 2023 10:15 AM
To: G4GNX 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Buying a K4 in UK

G4GNX wrote on 8/2/2023 4:40 PM:
> "Supposing that USPS do their job correctly"

That might happen right after the pubs in the UK begin serving ice cold Guiness 
in frozen mugs, Alan.  The US Postal Service used to be the most trusted agency 
of our government.  Today, I put at least one and often more mis-delivered mail 
pieces into the do-over box for our carrier to get it right hoping that whoever 
got our mail is doing likewise.
Benjamin Franklin, where are you?73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County




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[Elecraft] checking

2023-06-16 Thread Peter Ritter via Elecraft
Hello.

Please let me know when you get this?

I'd like to ask you something

Thanks
Peter
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Fan Question

2023-05-14 Thread Peter Lascell
My K3 into the KPA500 for over ten years . . . .   The FAN REV is 1.54
(this might be software)The resting temp is 27C.  When on RTTY I set
the FAN to 4.  Otherwise 2 for most of the time.  Knowing temperature is
the killer of electronics (short of lightning) I try to keep things cool.
For 10 years I have had a 24 V muffin fan running at 12 V sitting on top of
the amp (and another one on the K3).

To rule out VSWR issues, how about connecting the KPA500 directly into a
dummy load.

Pete W4WWQ

On Sun, May 14, 2023 at 1:24 PM James Bennett via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Got a question (problem?) regarding the fan in my KPA500. I'm driving the
> amp at 29 watts from a Kenwood TS-890S. The amp is connected to a KAT500,
> which in turn is hooked to a 30 foot tall Zerofive flagpole vertical. The
> tuner has provided me with a nice 1.2:1 SWR, as displayed on the amp. The
> resting temp of the amp shows 42C. At 29 watts input to the amp, I’m seeing
> about 480 watts of power from the amp. The amp has nothing sitting on top
> of it, and the wall behind it is over 12” away. There is about 2” clearance
> on either side of the amp, and it is sitting on top of the KAT500.
>
> The issue: The fan comes on in a very short time - less than 20 seconds -
> and the temp display runs up to 50+ degrees. If I start calling CQ or get
> into a QSO, it doesn’t take long for the temp to show over 60 degrees and
> the fan is running at max.
>
> When I had a K3 and more recently, a K4D - this did NOT happen. The fan
> would come on but NEVER at the max, loud level. Interestingly, many moons
> ago I also had a KX3 and had it connected to the KPA500. I noticed that the
> fan would also come on fairly quickly with that rig driving the amp, but I
> never thought too much about it. Until now...
>
> But now, I think there is some sort of problem. It seems to me that the
> temp shouldn’t get that high that fast nor should the fan start roaring in
> that short amount of time. I could understand it if the SWR was really bad,
> but at 1.2:1
>
> Any ideas why the amp fan should be acting this way with a non-K3 or
> non-K4 driving it?
>
> Jim / K7TXA
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Forest, VA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2-Bias Resistor When Using Mic Connector Pin 1 for Soundcard Input

2023-04-03 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Don (and Jim for info),

There could have been another reason for not showing any text in the 
text-part if the message.


Jim might use a device like a "smart"phone  that sends HTML-only mail.
This mailman server is set to suppress and delete any HTML markup and 
attachments in received mails before sending it to all participants.


So, for anyone reading this: Send at least Plain Text + HTML or better 
still Plain Text Only to this mail-reflector.


73,
Peter - PA0PJE



Op 2023-04-03 om 02:13 schreef W3FPR:

Jim,

If I understand your question in the subject line (but no text to detail
your question) - then the answer is that it all depends on the
soundcard.  If it has a DC blocking capacitor in the input, then all is
well with the bias resistor in place.  If there is no DC blocking at the
soundcard, the the bias resistor will have to be removed or a special
cable with a DC blocking capacitor will have to be inserted between the
mic input and the soundcard AF input.  A capacitor of 1 to 5 uF should
do fine.

If this does not answer your question, the respond with more text
instead of us trying to guess from just a subject line.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/2/2023 6:31 PM, Jim Campbell wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-KX] On the threshold of a dream

2023-04-01 Thread Peter Alterman
Think I'll wait for the upgrade version, Shakespeare.
P



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone



 Original message 
From: kevinr 
Date: 4/1/23 11:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Cc: m...@elecraft-kx.groups.io
Subject: [Elecraft-KX] On the threshold of a dream


It was a fairly normal dream.  A CW rag chew with weak signals. Then
N6KR came back to me.  After I gave him a 559 on the peaks, I asked him
what was new with him.  I sat back and listened as he told me about the
new Elecraft KX15.  He had been working on the nanobot installed user
interface, so he described that first.  I lost some due to fading but
here's the jist of it from my notes:

The KX15 user interface has a true head up display.  A waterfall appears
in your visual cortex; the control panel is placed wherever you think it
should be.  Audio is injected into your auditory cortex; extra
processing is possible through direct access to your cerebral cortex.
He mentioned this was the perfect interface for hearing or visually
impaired operators.  There is also an optional haptic interface for
inveterate knob twiddlers.

Ordering and setup is simple.  Send Elecraft a sealed sample of your
DNA.  They use it to program your personal set of nanobots. You receive
a bag of raw materials with the preprogrammed machines.  Lie down with
the raw materials placed nearby.  The nanobots induce sleep during the
one hour build time.  They enhance pathways to the visual, auditory, and
cerebral cortex areas of your brain.  When that part of the process is
complete the nanobots awaken you for your training session.  They
emplant the user interface controls as engrams by sending messages to
your visual cortex, as they store memories in your cerebral cortex. (buy
Elecraft)  Once they are assured you understand the user interface they
lyse themselves and are excreted.

A small number of the nanobots are retained for future upgrades. The
KX15 user interface nanobots are keyed to your DNA to prevent them from
roaming to other humans.   Since they have this DNA map they can compare
each cell they encounter for cancer screening. Any diploid cell which
does not match your DNA map can be lysed, pending approval of course.
They will also filter your blood for toxins.  Or, sadly, they could be
used to remove the KX15 thought controlled interface.

The nanobots did more than enhance pathways in your brain and emplant
engrams.  They also crafted interface antennas under your skin.  Those
appear as tattoos which can be made transparent if desired.  The
antennas are gauged for: WiFi, Blue Tooth, and the control/data link to
the Tesla free space transducer.  You can change the antenna type if you
wish by scanning the thought interface for choices.  Run multiple
antennas to better link with your 'net environment.

Next Wayne mentioned the thought to CW modulation scheme.  Plus other
options, like thought to: SSB, AM, and a list of digital modes.  But he
knew he had me hooked with thought to CW  Whatever you think is
transmitted in your chosen mode.  Whatever you think...  Yes, the
thought controlled interface does require a few filters: the language
limiter, band and power limits per class and location, regulation
encouragement, and (buy Elecraft) subliminal advertising.

You can order the optional color packet for custom tattoos:
The animated Elecraft logo
Campaign ribbons for K1 through K16 and KX1 through KX15
   with serial number overlays
   and decorations for multiple rigs in each category

Or install the active nanobot tattoo function where you can display:
A scrolling message
Real time raw contest score
The time piece of your choice
Active tattoo on either, or both arms
All tattoos can be made transparent via instant thought command

After I had taken notes on the interface I asked him about the rig
itself.  He told me there is no radio, only a transducer which generates
a carrier wave, drawing power from free space.  The transducer controls
wavelength, modulation, sampling, and the power level requested.  He did
complain about not being able to lower the rig's power draw; 0.03
microamps is just too high.  He really wants to use nanobots to embed
the transducer, eliminate the various interconnects, and speed
throughput.  Then the thought controlled interface would be able to
drive the Tesla field transducer directly.  I lost the next sentence
because I was thinking of a perfect antenna, oriented exactly, even as I
was hiking around sending CW with my thoughts.  Woo Hoo!

Then I asked him about power levels.  He said he had melted a receiver,
but quickly added limiters to the thought controlled interface.  He
mentioned the lost Tesla papers in passing but we never got back to it.
I have to admit the transducer does seem like science fiction.  But
Wayne assured me it works great.  The transducer is carried on a velcro
patch (for now) linked to the thought interface via the embedded antenna
links.  It is 3.5 

Re: [Elecraft] K2 and RSP1

2022-12-30 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Sorry Barry, it's empty again.
73, Peter

Op 2022-12-30 om 14:05 schreef Barry H:


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and RSP1

2022-12-30 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Sorry Barry,
This email reflector can ony process plain text.
Mail in HTML Only end up empty here.
HTML and plain text works but no markup will be shown, just the plain 
text part.

And finally any attachment is removed on arrival on the reflector.
So please write your question again as "plain text only"
I don't know how this must be set in Gmail, I use a local program to 
write mail called Mozilla Thunderbird.


Hope this helps.
73 es HNY,
Peter PA0PJE

Op 2022-12-30 om 01:51 schreef Barry H:


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Re: [Elecraft] AF knob turn all around

2022-12-03 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Sorry Jorge, you are right...

Those are real 10K potentiometers.
You have to order those from Elecraft I think.
Good luck and 73,
Peter

Op 2022-12-03 om 16:05 schreef Jorge Diez - CX6VM:

Hi Peter

but it has stopped at left and right.

Anyway, it broke, it was shelled :-(

I will need to find a new one

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

El sáb, 3 dic 2022 a las 12:00, Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE) ()
escribió:


Hi Jorge,

Those knobs drive digital encoders. Digital encoders usually have no
hard stops.
73,
eter

Op 2022-12-03 om 02:03 schreef Jorge Diez - CX6VM:

Hello

in one of my K3 radios, AF, SUB, RF/SQL and SUB knobs turn all aroun, no
limits on right and left side

Couldn`t figure out if I need a phillips or ALE instrument to fix it and

if

this will fix it properly

thanks

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Re: [Elecraft] AF knob turn all around

2022-12-03 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Hi Jorge,

Those knobs drive digital encoders. Digital encoders usually have no 
hard stops.

73,
eter

Op 2022-12-03 om 02:03 schreef Jorge Diez - CX6VM:

Hello

in one of my K3 radios, AF, SUB, RF/SQL and SUB knobs turn all aroun, no
limits on right and left side

Couldn`t figure out if I need a phillips or ALE instrument to fix it and if
this will fix it properly

thanks

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Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?

2022-11-02 Thread Peter Lascell
Today I ordered a spare CM500 from Sweetwater and have a tracking number as
it was also shipped today.
Pete W4WWQ

On Wed, Nov 2, 2022 at 1:26 PM David Sumner 
wrote:

> I just bought a second CM500 from Sweetwater. Great customer service. They
> were out of stock but let me know as soon as new stock arrived.
>
> Dave K1ZZ
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Nov 2, 2022, at 10:44 AM, k...@comcast.net wrote:
> >
> > Not sure about the manufacturing aspect but still available from amazon,
> > sweetwater, etc.
> > Hank / KR7X
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> On
> > Behalf Of j...@kk9a.com
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 1, 2022 9:57 PM
> > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?
> >
> > Is the Yamaha CM500 still being manufactured?
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> >
> > Rick NK7I wrote:
> >
> > They're nothing special; you can dial in equalization just as well in the
> > K3S.  I bought the Heil with my K3 and quickly gave up on them.
> >
> > The Yamaha CM500 plugs into the rear (with bias) and the headphones are
> > comfy for hours, without spending a lot (by comparison, you can get a few
> > for the cost of one Heil).  They block most of the noise in my shack.  I
> > keep a couple spares as the foam covers do wear out.
> >
> > If you need to block of lot of shack noise, there are other options, most
> > are expensive.
> >
> > A search of the archives is recommended, this topic has been covered many
> > times before.
> >
> > 73,
> > Rick nk7i
> >
> > __
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> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message
> > delivered to k...@comcast.net
> >
> > __
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> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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-- 
Pete Lascell
Forest, VA
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[Elecraft] K3s USB audio connections no longer visible in WSJT after 22H2 Win11 update

2022-09-20 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
Earlier tonight I got the big Windows 11 fall update (known as 22H2). It
confirmed my worst fears in that it broke WSJT functionality, but unlike
previous times, it wasn't just a matter of going in and re-selecting the
appropriate sound device. With this update, in WSJT, the only sound options
to choose are the default Windows system audio options (Microphone (USB
Audio CODEC) and (Line IN (Realtek Audio). In the Windows Sound control
panel the K3s options are there (they were renamed back to default values,
but as I do every time one of these stupid updates comes through, I rename
them so I know for sure which entries are which in this list), but they are
*not* there in WSJT.

Any ideas how to get these back? I'm the furthest thing from a Windows
expert, and it seems like every new version causes more damage that average
users are incapable of fixing on their own. I've got a sneaking suspicion
that this is going to become a major issue for a lot of users as more people
get the 22H2 update, unless it's just a simple fix.




Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

 

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Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

2022-07-03 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
Thanks for this. I will try to see what the COM devices are supposedly 
connected to when it's in failure mode but it's all very cryptic.

I have already deleted old phantom devices during the first phase of 
troubleshooting, as well as deleted all unnecessary software from the system. 
The problem of *ALL* COM ports being shown as busy upon reboot persists.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave B via Elecraft
Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2022 7:00 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

FYI...

Windows users, can use these utilities to find out what is/was connected to 
their PC's by USB etc...

USBview:  A Microsoft (was System Internals who MS bought) tool.
The easiest way to find it is here:- https://ftdichip.com/utilities/ "Microsoft 
USBView - USB Connection Viewer"
There is a link to download a zipfile that contains it:- 
https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/usbview.zip
That contains a single stand-alone exe file that is the utility. Put it in a 
folder of it's own, and create a shortcut to it for your desktop.

(Also a link to a Linux version, that does work, but needs compiling from 
source, and running using sudo as it needs elevated rights to read the running 
configuration files to get the information to display.)


Another similar tool is USBDview
https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/usb_devices_view.html
That shows a much more detailed list of what Windows knows about, that is, any 
USB device that was ever connected since windows was initially installed, 
regardless of if it was ever used!

You can also delete instances of old / defunct devices easily with this very 
useful tool.
(Some AV tools say it's suspect or malicious.  Use VirusTotal.com to verify if 
it (or anything else) is bad, on a file by file, or webpage basis. )


Note that if for whatever reason Windows (or Linux) re-enumerates things, the 
linkage between a physical device and it's COM port number can (and often 
does!) change.  Seemingly at the will of some minor deity somewhere...   That 
of course, will break any software that expects some specific device to be at a 
specific COM port.

Windows has the means to "Fix" that.  (Known to work up to Win10, that I have 
personally tested it on.) Find those details here:- 
https://sourceforge.net/p/fldigi/wiki/windows_com_howto/
I wrote much of that after hours of "fun" some years ago...   As above, it 
works well with Win-10.


For Linux users, look up and explore the world of "udev rules". But...
They are only really easy to setup, if a USB device has a unique "something" in 
it's USB descriptor, that the OS uses to identify it. Such as a Serial Number.  
 FTDI devices have unique sn's, but Prolific, SiLabs and others sadly do not.  
So, it gets funky if you have several of the same type of device that all "look 
the same" to the OS.

(Newer genuine FTDI devices also have the ability to have that serial number 
(and some other settings) re-programmed!   Fakes seem to take the 
reprogramming, but the new data does not "stick".  Don't ask how I found that 
out!)

However, you can use the "connection path" between the OS and the Device, as a 
deciding factor, but then you are forced into hooking everything up "EXACTLY" 
the same each time.  (Hub's and all...) But it does work.

Using them, you create "symbolic links" to the actual port used, so for example 
my VHF radio appears as /dev/ttyFT736  Regardless of which hole I connect it's 
associated FTDI serial adapter to on the PC (or via any
hubs!)  Or what /dev/ttyUSB* the OS re-assigns it to if things are 
re-enumerated for whatever reason.)

For example, this is the rule for my ancient FT-736

#FT-736r
SUBSYSTEM=="tty", ATTRS{serial}=="A50285BI", SYMLINK+="ttyFT736"

Flrig and most other software both accept symlinks and work well.

(For the odd software title that insists on using the full /dev/ttyUSBx for 
example, they often store their settings in a file that can often be edited 
with a text editor, where you can in effect force-feed it the symlink.   The 
fun part is finding where that is stored!)

The exact details of how to use udev rules are way to much for this list, but 
as usual, there are many websites that can furnish such info, plus some 
examples.   Has to be said though, different "flavors" of Linux, often store 
such rules in subtly different places to others.


I have zero experience of Apple Mac's.  But they use a custom version of BSD as 
their OS, that is more like Unix than Linux.  So it is likely some if not all 
of the above could work on them too. If Apple let you dig that deep and 
meddle...


Hope some of the above helps, and or gives people some ideas how to tame things.

73.
Dave G0WBX(G8KBV)

--
Created on and sent from a Unix like PC running and using free and open source 
software:
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Re: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems

2022-07-02 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
Yes, that is likely my next step, an in-place reinstall. I do not have the time 
to fully reconfigure the system so I can't do a bare metal install job. It's my 
work computer as well as my ham computer, and work MUST take precedence on it. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Lyn Norstad  
Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2022 3:01 PM
To: 'Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)' ; 'Wilson Lamb' 
; 'elecraft' 
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems

Peter -

If you're sure that the problem is not what we addressed, then I suggest you 
reinstall Windows 11.  Presumably you're using the " Pro " edition.  If not, 
switch to that one.  The latest build is # 22000.778 released on 06/23/2022 
(last week).

Instructions here:

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/topic/june-23-2022-kb5014668-os-build-22000-778-preview-2b5f1da6-d602-48b4-b443-96b460e3c38d

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2022 5:22 PM
To: 'Wilson Lamb'; 'elecraft'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems

The problem isn't the Elecraft radio, or the COM ports, it's a defect of some 
nature within Windows 11 that has suddenly manifested itself. I've tried all 
the usual troubleshooting problems and no-go, and even a Microsoft 2nd Level 
guy spent three hours with me on the phone and did it all again and still 
couldn’t' find it. Making things work "once" isnt' too difficult. Making 
everything work 100% reliably *repeatedly*, as it has been for years, is the 
problem.

I really hate the fact that it took SO long for ham radio manufacturers to move 
away from RS-232 to pure USB, and only recently to TCP/IP, which is the correct 
way of doing things in my opinion.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Wilson Lamb via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2022 2:18 PM
To: elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems


Please read my rant about Ham Qualifications and Technology. 
We are at the mercy of MANY programmers and "software engineers." 
The operating system people have no resistance to making things steadily more 
obscure and complicated. 
They don't know or care what the programmers of our many programs are doing and 
have little incentive to find out. 
The programmers typically have only a nodding acquaintance with what the 
Operating System really does and don't have time/ability to find out. 
WE are way out on a thin limb that gets more and more likely to break or sag 
down to the ground. 
All the people mentioned above are whittling away at the limb, each 
contributing to its weakness/impending breakage, and none have much incentive 
to help US. 
I really hope you find it and I guarantee, if you do, there will be a gotcha 
that someone will tell you should have seen and that will make you feel 
inadequate!  In this area, we are all inadequate! 
I know this doesn't help.  It's meant as sympathy. 
I have been building and using computers since the 50s, when I helped build one 
that used relays and I still have NO interest in software except to say what it 
should do, at which I've been pretty successful. 
Good luck and remember, there are knobs on the radio and they will probably 
work for you, since the software in the radio has likely had a few years to get 
sorted out and the worst bugs found. 
WL
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delivered to l...@lnainc.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

2022-07-02 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
I have never owned a Heil that didn't give me problems at some point in its
life. It's always something. I gave up a long time ago and bought an Arlan
Communications radiosport headset. It's more expensive but it's absolutely
amazing. No clamping on my head, no mechanical construction problems, and
dare I say it, mechanically overbuilt for severe duty. I would trust their
products for communicating on a desert island or the southern ocean. It Just
Works.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Drew Arnett
Sent: Saturday, July 2, 2022 2:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

Ignored this for quite a while, but came back to take a look this morning.
Sharing in case it helps someone else out in the future.

I think the jack on the headset itself has an intermittent and/or faulty
connection.  That's why trying the straight cable (which I never use) as
Heil suggested didn't help me narrow it down before.  (I always used the
curly cable and left the straight one in the box.)

Symptoms I see today:

KX3 on battery.  RF power level set to 0 watts (so no RF feedback of
course).  Mon set to 4.

Gear:  Pro 7 headset.  Heil Y cable (for mic/foot switch) but using the
little hand/button switch Heil includes, a cheap pair of Walkman style
earphones, and a homebrew electret handmic (that also requires 5V bias).

No difference between curly cord that I normally use and the straight cable
that I never took out of the box.

In all cases, I use the Y cable.

Notice the combinations that work and don't work:
* walkman head phones & homebrew handmic - works OK
* walkman head phones & pro 7 mic - works OK
* pro 7 headphones & homebrew handmic - works OK
* pro 7 headphones & pro 7 mic - ***PROBLEM***

I suspect the feedback path is due to wiring fault causing the headphone
audio return to share path with microphone return causing IxR coupling.  (I
hate the term ground loop, but there you go.)

Wiggle testing.  Nothing at the jack/plug interfaces on the radio (mic,
headphone).  Nothing on the jack/plug interfaces on the Y cable.
Ah, the jack/plug on the headset definitely has some sort of mechanical
intermittent at the least.  And it does for both the curly cable and the
straight cable.  So, it's the headset and not the cable.
:-(

So, off to Heil for repair.  (Looks like snap plastic/spudger tool work,
which I'm not really interested in doing.)  Or to perhaps shop for something
more reliable?

Best regards,

Drew
n7da

On Sat, Jul 3, 2021 at 9:05 PM Drew Arnett  wrote:
>
> No luck sorting this out in the field during FD, especially with a 
> workaround available.  (Alternative mic.)  I'd like to resolve it if 
> possible before replacing the Pro 7, the KX3, or both.  :-O  So, now 
> that I'm unpacked at home, I'll try a simple setup for debugging.
>
> Trouble shooting setup now:  KX3 (with new, charged internal NiMH), 
> Pro 7 with Y cable and that little clip on PTT switch they include, 3 
> FT coax to (shielded) dummy load.  Electret mic element.  MIC BIAS on, 
> CMP 0, PWR 5, 14 MHz, SSB.
>
> With MON 0, no RF output indicated while transmitting and speaking or 
> whistling for MIC GAIN 0 to 80.
>
> With MON 3 (a level I like for CW sidetone) and PTT on, doesn't matter 
> if I'm speaking/whistling or not.  The RF output indicates nothing 
> until about MIC GAIN 70 when it abruptly comes up with a harsh sound.
> Other electret microphone sounds fine at MIC GAIN 60.
>
> This is probably something simple.  I just haven't found it, yet.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drew
> n7da
>
> On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 3:36 AM Drew Arnett  wrote:
> >
> > Shield of mic jack goes to bare metal Elecraft thoughtfully left on 
> > the chassis metal.  10 nF shunt to ground.  (Need to see where that 
> > is, but hopefully SMT and with very small loop area.)  Sheet 9:
> > https://ftp.elecraft.com/KX3/Manuals%20Downloads/KX3SchematicDiagram
> > Dec2012.pdf
> >
> > Heil suggests on their tips page generous ferrite choking of all 3 
> > leads of their Y adapter cable:
> > https://heilhamradio.com/support/tips/
> >
> > Drew
> > n7da
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 3:23 AM Drew Arnett 
wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > In the KX3 for Field Day department, we plan to use it for the 
> > > GOTA station for phone on HF.  (Yes, will have antennas not on top 
> > > of each other and bandpass filters on ALL radios.)  Would be great 
> > > to setup with a headset and foot switch.
> > >
> > > Last weekend, I used my KX3 barefoot on 6 and with a 
> > > transverters-store.com transverter (also barefoot) for 2.  6m 
> > > antenna was 2 elements about 15 ft above the ground and 2m antenna 
> > > 6 elements at 10 feet above the ground.
> > >
> > > I worked a couple of contacts on 2m phone with the headset.  
> > > Later, when I tried to use the headset for phone on 6, seemed like 
> > > I was having a feedback problem.  Cabling was the stock cabling 
> > > that comes 

Re: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems

2022-07-01 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
The problem isn't the Elecraft radio, or the COM ports, it's a defect of some 
nature within Windows 11 that has suddenly manifested itself. I've tried all 
the usual troubleshooting problems and no-go, and even a Microsoft 2nd Level 
guy spent three hours with me on the phone and did it all again and still 
couldn’t' find it. Making things work "once" isnt' too difficult. Making 
everything work 100% reliably *repeatedly*, as it has been for years, is the 
problem.

I really hate the fact that it took SO long for ham radio manufacturers to move 
away from RS-232 to pure USB, and only recently to TCP/IP, which is the correct 
way of doing things in my opinion.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Wilson Lamb via Elecraft
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2022 2:18 PM
To: elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] Com Port Problems


Please read my rant about Ham Qualifications and Technology. 
We are at the mercy of MANY programmers and "software engineers." 
The operating system people have no resistance to making things steadily more 
obscure and complicated. 
They don't know or care what the programmers of our many programs are doing and 
have little incentive to find out. 
The programmers typically have only a nodding acquaintance with what the 
Operating System really does and don't have time/ability to find out. 
WE are way out on a thin limb that gets more and more likely to break or sag 
down to the ground. 
All the people mentioned above are whittling away at the limb, each 
contributing to its weakness/impending breakage, and none have much incentive 
to help US. 
I really hope you find it and I guarantee, if you do, there will be a gotcha 
that someone will tell you should have seen and that will make you feel 
inadequate!  In this area, we are all inadequate! 
I know this doesn't help.  It's meant as sympathy. 
I have been building and using computers since the 50s, when I helped build one 
that used relays and I still have NO interest in software except to say what it 
should do, at which I've been pretty successful. 
Good luck and remember, there are knobs on the radio and they will probably 
work for you, since the software in the radio has likely had a few years to get 
sorted out and the worst bugs found. 
WL
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Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

2022-07-01 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
The issue is far deeper than this. None of the COM ports work normally after
starting the system. Occasionally the radio connects to the software
normally, other times it doesn't. If I have it working with N1MM, close down
N1MM and try to start Commander (DX Labs) it won't work initially, but if I
try it 3 or 4 times in a row it will connect normally.

Ditto with my two rotors. Those are the only serial ports in my system. The
K3s, my 6m rotor (Rotor-EZ board in the controller box) and a Green Heron
RT-20 (serial-to-USB, not pure USB like the newer RT-21). For whatever
reason, there is *something* holding all the installed/configured COM ports
open and unavailable. I cannot find that "something."

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Geoffrey Feldman
Sent: Friday, July 1, 2022 1:23 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

These is nothing unique about the Elecraft serial cable except possibly the
radio side connector.  Basically it's a USB to RS232 Ground/transmit/Receive
cable. Anyone who understands USB com ports can help you.  They don't need
to know radio.  They should understand what I wrote here.

For USB COM port problems (with anything, including these).
Run DEVMGR (I do this by entering that in the search bar) In Devmgr "View"
menu , click / check "Show Hidden Devices"
Look in the list for "Ports(COM & LPT) Expand that to the sub list You will
see a list of ports there in the sub list.  Some are grayed out, those are
not connected.
Plug in your Elecraft serial cable. Is there a change?  You should see  a
grayed out one now dark (enabled) (as COM 1 is)  That is the number of the
Elecraft port.
OR ... a new one just appears. This sometimes happens. That is the new
number of the Elecraft port. (This is a likely outcome).

Make a note of anything in devmgr list, this may help Elecraft help you but
I expect you will have figured it out with the above steps.

If this does not work, try other USB ports on your computer with the above
procedure.

If this does not work, try the Elecraft cable on a friends computer (the
driver for Elecraft is pretty standard you don't need the radio to check the
cable).  If this does not work, you need a Elecraft serial cable.  You can
also look in the cable and make one.  There are USB to RS232 cables you can
change the connector to match the cable description in the manual.  Others
available may have the same connector but TX and RX are reversed.  Some are
already the same as elecraft.

W1GCF
Geoff

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Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

2022-06-30 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
Reassigning port numbers did not solve the problem, and I did try that as one 
of the first steps in troubleshooting.

With one day’s work under my belt here’s where the situation lies as of tonight.

 

1.  After a cold reboot, the first attempt to launch either CI-V Commander 
(DX Labs rig interface) or N1MM Logger + may or may not capture the COM5 port 
used for CAT control (which was briefly changed to COM8 then changed back after 
finding no change).
2.  Launching either the old version of N1MM Rotor (v12.11) or the current 
.NET version, there’s about a very slim chance that it will work, but the usual 
result is that on attempting to start the rotor software it indicates both 
rotor com ports (COM1 and COM3) are already in use, and any attempt to invoke a 
direction command generates an error message (8018, IIRC) stating the function 
can only work if a port is open.
3.  Using the DX Lab “DX View” software, which interfaces with the rotor 
control software, if I repeatedly enable/disable the rotor control tick box, it 
**MAY** come back, and will keep working until the program is closed.
4.  If CAT control is in fact established, whether through N1MM or 
Commander, it will remain active until the program is closed. Once closed, 
either reopening it or opening the other control software will result in either 
program not being able to see the radio (i.e. the port remains locked out). 
Note than if it is Commander that is closed and N1MM does not see the radio at 
first, if I hit the “Reset Radio” bar in the bandmap several times it does seem 
to come back and start working again.
5.  Every other function of the PC is working the same as it always has, 
and once a COM port feature is working it remains working flawlessly.
6.  Troubleshooting has involved using Process Explorer to see if any 
devices are holding a port open when the problem is occurring, and none appear 
to be doing so. Phantom COM ports were removed, all USB devices were set to fix 
the issue of stopping the device for power saving (I hoped that one would work, 
but it didn’t), and all USB Serial drivers were deleted and allowed to 
reinstall themselves upon reboot. The results were identical.

 

In short, it appears to me that there is SOMETHING within Windows 11 that has 
changed somehow, and is locking serial ports on its own, with no easy way to 
release them.

 

- pjd

 

From: Lyn Norstad  
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2022 8:46 PM
To: 'Julia Tuttle' 
Cc: 'Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)' ; 'George Thornton' 
; 'Elecraft' 
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] COM port problems

 

Julie –

 

I can look for it … but I don’t believe it was in an official MSFT document.  
Nevertheless, it has been going on for a couple years.  It seems to affect 
almost every ham using Win 10 sooner or later.

 

My understanding is that one or more specific Windows 10 Pro 64 updates 
reassigned COM ports in order to prevent a potential hacker from accessing the 
system.  It may have been related to the presence of specific software 
installed on the system.

 

In any event, the fix I mentioned does indeed work and ends the problem.

 

George may have other issues, since he’s already tried this

 

73

Lyn, W0LEN

 

 

From: Julia Tuttle [mailto:ju...@juliatuttle.net] 
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2022 2:47 PM
To: l...@lnainc.com <mailto:l...@lnainc.com> 
Cc: Peter Dougherty (W2IRT); George Thornton; Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

 

Lyn,

 

Can you share your source that COM port reassignment is a deliberate security 
feature? I'm curious what vulnerability it's mitigating.

 

Thanks,

 

Julie

 

On Thu, Jun 30, 2022 at 3:25 PM Lyn Norstad mailto:l...@lnainc.com> > wrote:

Are you running Windows 10 by any chance?

As a security measure, Win 10 automatic updates often reassign COM port
numbers.

If you know how to do it, you can rename and reassign port numbers.  If you
give them a number of 20 or higher, Win 10 update will leave them alone.

Hint:  Control Panel>Device Manager>Ports>(Elecraft connection
port)>General>Advanced>COM Port Number

Be sure to make the corresponding port number change in the software.

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> ] On Behalf Of Peter Dougherty
(W2IRT)
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2022 12:28 AM
To: 'George Thornton'; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
<mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net> 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

It's possible (and I'm guessing somehow likely), but darned if I know what
to even look for. These are things that were set when the computer was built
from scratch last year, they have worked 100% reliably over thousands of
QSOs in both Commander and N1MM+ ever since, and absolutely nothing was
changed in terms of configuration or even a Windows Update

Re: [Elecraft] COM port problems

2022-06-29 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
It's possible (and I'm guessing somehow likely), but darned if I know what
to even look for. These are things that were set when the computer was built
from scratch last year, they have worked 100% reliably over thousands of
QSOs in both Commander and N1MM+ ever since, and absolutely nothing was
changed in terms of configuration or even a Windows Update in at least two
weeks. I just needed to restart the computer after moving it from a wall
outlet to a UPS, and it started going crazy from that point on.

Whatever the issue is, it seems to affect ALL the COM ports in the system
the same; neither Commander nor N1MM can open the radio port, or either of
the two rotor ports.

I did somehow manage to get Commander working (don't aske me how, it just
started), but the rotors are still no-go (and not critical at the moment).

 

- pjd

 

From: George Thornton  
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2022 10:23 PM
To: Peter Dougherty (W2IRT) ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] COM port problems

 

It is possible the parameters set in the computer after reboot don't match
those set in the program.  Check the port and baud settings.  

 

Generally xom port settings need to match for communication to occur.

 

 

 

Sent from my Galaxy

 

 

 

 Original message 

From: "Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)" mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > 

Date: 6/29/22 6:59 PM (GMT-08:00) 

To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net <mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>  

Subject: [Elecraft] COM port problems 

 

OK, got a massive problem that just cropped up this evening that is far
beyond my understanding that has completely killed my ability to use my K3
with my computer.

 

After restarting the PC, suddenly I cannot communicate with the radio using
DX Lab Suite or N1MM+ on the assigned COM port. I have downloaded the K3
Utility software and it is able to connect to the radio on COM5, its usual
port, and invoke macros via the Utility. So I know there's proper
communication between the radio and the PC. But once I close down the K3
Utility program I get the first major problem. The radio goes into transmit
for 10 seconds, releases for about 4 or 5 second, and goes back in to
transmit. Only powering the radio off and back on again stops this behavior.

The main issue is that no CAT control software seems to be able to connect
to the radio at all. The radio is on COM5, and has been for at least the
last 4 or 5 years, and until today it has just worked, even after building a
new computer last November. I just rebooted today and everything went to
heck.

The kicker is that's it's not a K3 hardware problem, and since it works with
neither N1MM nor DX Lab software any more it's apparently not those programs
either, and quite frankly I just don't know where to look next. Compounding
the issue, and likely related to it, the N1MM Rotor control cannot find
either COM port assigned to the rotors (COM1 and COM3). I have tried
removing the ports and re-adding them in Device Manager but the problem
still persists. I am absolutely prepared to pay a certified systems
professional to diagnose and fix this, but with ultra-specialized radio gear
I doubt they'd be able to figure it out either. Any suggestions? I'm
basically QRT until I can fix this.

 


----

Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

DXCC Card Checker/CQ-WAZ Checkpoint

www.facebook.com/W2IRT <http://www.facebook.com/W2IRT> 

 

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[Elecraft] COM port problems

2022-06-29 Thread Peter Dougherty (W2IRT)
OK, got a massive problem that just cropped up this evening that is far
beyond my understanding that has completely killed my ability to use my K3
with my computer.

 

After restarting the PC, suddenly I cannot communicate with the radio using
DX Lab Suite or N1MM+ on the assigned COM port. I have downloaded the K3
Utility software and it is able to connect to the radio on COM5, its usual
port, and invoke macros via the Utility. So I know there's proper
communication between the radio and the PC. But once I close down the K3
Utility program I get the first major problem. The radio goes into transmit
for 10 seconds, releases for about 4 or 5 second, and goes back in to
transmit. Only powering the radio off and back on again stops this behavior.

The main issue is that no CAT control software seems to be able to connect
to the radio at all. The radio is on COM5, and has been for at least the
last 4 or 5 years, and until today it has just worked, even after building a
new computer last November. I just rebooted today and everything went to
heck.

The kicker is that's it's not a K3 hardware problem, and since it works with
neither N1MM nor DX Lab software any more it's apparently not those programs
either, and quite frankly I just don't know where to look next. Compounding
the issue, and likely related to it, the N1MM Rotor control cannot find
either COM port assigned to the rotors (COM1 and COM3). I have tried
removing the ports and re-adding them in Device Manager but the problem
still persists. I am absolutely prepared to pay a certified systems
professional to diagnose and fix this, but with ultra-specialized radio gear
I doubt they'd be able to figure it out either. Any suggestions? I'm
basically QRT until I can fix this.

 




Regards,
Peter Dougherty, W2IRT

DXCC Card Checker/CQ-WAZ Checkpoint

www.facebook.com/W2IRT

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2: Transmit Power 10m Band

2022-04-29 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Dear Reed,

Send mail to this reflector as "Text only" or both text and HTML for all 
HTML markup text is skipped by this qth.net mailing list.


Your mails are received as completely blank by all of us as shown below 
my message.


Best 73, Peter - PA0PJE

Op 29-04-2022 om 01:12 schreef Reed Fite:


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Re: [Elecraft] Simulated Stereo

2021-12-29 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Hi Bob,


Yuck!


Indeed that's what I would say also.
I for one can't stand anti-phased headphones. I once discussed that over 
using stereo-headphones being fed at tip and ring and left the common 
open. The comment was: No one hears that. Well I do! Splitting mono into 
high and low pitched sound seems fine at start but fatigues just as much 
as anti-phase. Only the spacial setting on the KX3 is very useful but 
even then I like to switch back to mono at times.


Just my €0,01

73
Peter - PA0PJE

Op 28-12-2021 om 02:18 schreef Bob McGraw:

Yuck!  As a retired recording studio engineer, CBS Records, having the
same signal out of phase by 180 degrees to one ear, is much like
sticking and ice pick in ones ears.

Most systems will have a variable phase shift depending on frequency,
usually not to exceed 30 degrees.   In this case, the leading phase
signal will appear from that direction.   In others, bandpass filtering
moves the higher frequency to one side and the lower to the other.  From
an audio perspective, this still sounds like "fake stereo".    It is
just messed up monaural.  There's lots of that today.

The K3S has the AFX function that does an excellent job of signal
spatialization and sounds quite nice on SSB signals.

73

> Bob, K4TAX
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

2021-12-24 Thread Peter Hall
Hi Gwen,

I love my Hakko FR301 de-soldering gun but, while I've used a variety of 
melt/burn techniques for enamel wire insulation, I had not thought of using the 
de-soldering tool.  I haven't noticed anyone mention wire stripping tweezers, 
which I've found to be a really handy tool when making inductors with a variety 
of wire sizes. I settled on a single size tweezer:

https://au.element14.com/knipex/15-11-120/wire-stripper-0-6mm/dp/875958?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6Ongl-b99AIVwg5yCh3cgwwJEAQYASABEgLFsPD_BwE=_dc|pcrid|501152839127|pkw||pmt||slid||product|875958|pgrid|123988903131|ptaid|pla-293946777986|=KNC-GAU-GEN-SMART-SHOPPING

Purists would probably have a few different sizes but the one referenced deals 
with my requirements for small receiving toroids, up to (e.g.) the LPF 
inductors in the 2200 m PA I've just finished (about 16 AWG, as I recall).  
These tweezers are very sharp and quite compact, so they can be angled to 
optimize the tinned lengths on e.g. partially-mounted toroids.  It's a slightly 
longer and calmer process than the melt/burn approach.

73, Peter (VK6HP).



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Gwen Patton
Sent: Saturday, 25 December 2021 3:53 AM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

I'd love to have one of those vacuum desoldering tools. I feel in techno-lust 
with them watching Mr. Carlson's Lab on YouTube. I might try that trick you 
discovered, but I found that my electronic plasma arc lighter burns off enamel 
on anything but the thickest of magnet wire. Hold the wire with pliers, though, 
the inductance heats the wire very fast, and the enamel burns off in a 
twinkling.

I'd avoid using the plasma arc trick on a toroid already soldered to the board 
at the other end. That might let out more than a little bit of magic smoke.

73,
Gwen, NG3P

On Fri, Dec 24, 2021, 12:35 PM CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft < 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

>
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Re: [Elecraft] feeding a half-wave dipole with ladder line

2021-10-30 Thread Peter Hall
Ed,

I missed your initial posting but just FYI I do something similar to what you 
describe.  I re-purpose a ZS6BKW HF doublet several ways, using vacuum relay 
switching, to give (1) a 160 m base loaded vertical using a rudimentary 
elevated counterpoise and (2) a 630 m Marconi T fed against "real" ground.  At 
the lower frequencies the 450 ohm ladder line (which normally forms the 
matching section for the ZS6BKW) becomes a top-loaded radiator (being shorted 
to form a single conductor), with additional base loading via separate homebrew 
couplers for 160 m and 630 m.

In doublet mode the impedance at the bottom of the ZS6BKW matching section is 
50 ohm, so I use a quality 1:1 current balun with an RG213 coax feeder to the 
shack.  If you use a different doublet and vertical ladder line lengths you can 
calculate the impedance at the base of the ladder line and choose the best 
balun for the job.  

My setup is very much a compromise on a suburban block but does allow decent 
630 m operation, along with HF capability.

73, Peter.



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Ed Cole
Sent: Sunday, 31 October 2021 7:26 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] feeding a half-wave dipole with ladder line

Bob,

Either you did not read what I wrote carefully enough, or I did a poor job of 
explaining.

First off:  I an not a HF DX chaser or HF Contest junkie.  HF is a very 
occasional activity when I want a casual chat or check in a local net.
Thus a compromise antenna for the "low bands".

The existing 80/40m dipole is a fan dipole with 80 and 40m wires.  I plan the 
new setup  to run 40m at right angles for less interaction between them (been 
there done it experience).

If all I wanted to do is 80/40 I would install the existing 1:1 balun at the 
feed and run coax to it.

But I was thinking I could use window wire (commercially made) instead of the 
12-inch parallel wires I show in the diagram.  Whatever its impedance (probably 
like 300-ohm or 450).

By shorting the ladder line I could feed the antennas as a shortened vertical 
on either 160m or 630m where the dipole wire would add "top-hat" loading.  
Similar to how the horizontal wire in an inverted-L works.

I already have my 630m loading coil to use at the base; adding a tap it could 
work at 160m.

I have vacuum relays to do the shorting.  And yes there will be radials that 
are too short on 630m (1/4 wave is 522 feet and my property is 200x
300 foot).

My question regarded choosing a proper balun to use on 80 & 40m. 
Running 140 foot of ladder wire on diagonal to the shack defeats using it as a 
vertical.  Ideal would be a QRO ATU at the ground-end of the vertical wires 
(but I'm too cheap for that).  I have a QRO Drake Tuner to do the job at the 
shack.  I'll try out my 1:1 balun.


73, Ed - KL7UW


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 paddle connector

2021-10-26 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

That is exactly what I did, Rich and Paul...
The "connector" I used was a 2 pin connector that is/was in use in 
computers to connect activity LED's and reset buttons to the main board. 
They fit perfectly and can be salvaged from nearly any old PC. Use the 
two right hand upper and lower pins and put the front key setting to "hand"


73,
Peter-PA0PJE

On 2021-26-10 at 00:26 Rich WC3T wrote:

I knew this article would come in handy.

http://ag6qr.net/index.php/how-to-use-a-straight-key-and-paddles-together-on-a-kx3/


On Oct 25, 2021, at 18:13, Paul Huff  wrote:

I have been exploring options for connecting a paddle, bug, or straight key, to the 
front edge connector on my new KX3, and some of you have shared ideas and suggestions 
with me.  I greatly appreciate everything that has been given.  But I also contacted 
Elecraft technical support and asked them about that unusual square 4-pin connection 
and they sent me a link to the actual part supplier that they use.  (Click here 
<https://www.samtec.com/products/ssq-102-02-f-d-ra>)  That is outstanding 
customer support!  I haven’t decided what I am going to do yet but I sure am enjoying 
this new rig!

73,

Paul - N8XMS
100% QRP CW



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Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

2021-10-20 Thread Peter Wollan
We just switched to getting internet through T-Mobile, a cell phone
connection.  It's a hotspot, but fairly large and more capable than the
little dongles.  Not blazingly fast, but good, and reasonably priced.

  Peter W0LLN

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 1:22 PM eric norris via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Dear Gang:
> Xfinity, our internet provider, showed up at 7:30am this morning, to
> explain to the XYL that we were being cut off for good because my amateur
> radio activities had caused wide area outages.  Oddly, these wide area
> outages did not include my own house.  They told her the antennas
> themselves--absent any power--were the problem
> The last time I was threatened, I installed chokes and opto-isolaters on
> our shielded ethernet lines, and after being told they use 14Mhz as their
> carrier frequency, I have stayed off 20m, only using 100w unless I'm in a
> rare contest.  I asked to speak to a technical guy--they gave me a number
> which I called, but he never called back.
> Any Ideas?  Does anyone have a contact at the ARRL, or know a
> communications lawyer?  Comcast/Xfinity will be back out here at 2pm
> Pacific time--I'd appreciate any help.
> My XYL depends on an internet connection to work.  Being off the air is
> unimaginable.
> Frantic,
>
> 73, Eric WD6DBM
>
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is Kenwood listening?

2021-09-23 Thread Peter Hall
I'll also note that the TS-890S example quoted surfaces in relatively few 
station setups and requires the operator to be determined in ignoring one of a 
couple of work-arounds.  However, the point about manufacturer responsiveness 
is well made.  I doubt that I will be making any modifications to my TS-890S, 
though.

Apart from having low transmit IMD and good ALC dynamics (including no 
overshoot) the TS-890S works well with the KPA1500 and similar amplifiers, in 
part because of the per-band, per-mode power setting and limiting, and the 
pre-settable tune powers.  I understand that Elecraft and several other US 
manufacturers also implement similar systems, which mitigate a number of 
potentially embarrassing (or worse) brain/finger problems.  Manufacturers such 
as Icom and Yaesu could usefully catch up.

73, Peter (VK6HP)


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Wednesday, 22 September 2021 7:37 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is Kenwood listening?

On 9/21/2021 12:58 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
> I have been personally involved with the investigation of several TS-590S 
> issues, either as the principal investigator/reporter, or supporting someone 
> else who found the problem.  Kenwood fixed all these issues with firmware 
> updates, in one case issuing an update within a couple of weeks of receiving 
> the first report.

Great news both here and from Wes. Kenwood is certainly the JA mfr who has done 
the most to minimize clicks, their rigs test well at ARRL Labs. 
In general, I found their user interface the most intuitive on the rigs I've 
owned, especially the TH-F6A, which is still my favorite talkie. 
Their new D74 digital talkie is the exception -- I couldn't do much of anything 
without digging out the printouts I'd made of the pdf manual, and it died just 
after warranty ended. The last of their HF rigs I've owned was a pair of TS850s.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Power Level

2021-09-14 Thread Peter Hall
Hello Barry,

I'm not a CW op but use my KPA1500 a lot at the sort of output levels you're 
interested in (for obvious reasons).  My operations are largely SSB, with the 
occasional JT mode digital on 160 m and 6 m.  I have not found the KPA1500 
power output stability to be an issue, despite the fact that the efficiency is 
degraded.  The heatsink temperatures are certainly no worse than at higher 
power operation and the only real penalty is a small hip-pocket one when the 
power bill arrives.  On the IMD front my own quick measurements show that the 
overall picture is also no worse than at high power but it's not much better 
either, although the higher order products are a bit lower.

The KPA1500 manual is a poor effort for a premium product and, in areas like 
IMD specifications and any associated discussion, it's almost an exercise in 
studied disingenuity. An abiding irritation is the lack of a decent block 
diagram showing e.g. the connection points for signal and control lines.  In 
the end, the amplifier is a good one although given our antipodean locations, 
it'd pay to review the SPE and other offerings both in technical and support 
terms.  Personally, I like the Elecraft form factor and the relatively large 
amount of air in the two-box implementation.  My relatively early serial number 
RF deck has been back to the US once for service and upgrade and, while I was 
particularly grateful to a few Elecraft people for help at an obviously 
difficult time (CV19), the overall experience was very average.

73, Peter (VK6HP).



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Barry Simpson
Sent: Wednesday, 15 September 2021 6:15 AM
To: Elecraft Mailing List 
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Power Level

I have had a quick look through the KPA1500 manual and could not find any 
reference to running the amplifier at a lower power level than the rated 1,500w.

Can anyone comment on the implications (eg temperature, efficiency and IMD) of 
running a KPA1500 at say 500w by simply reducing the drive power.

Would the power level be stable if set to 500w or would it drift upwards or 
downwards during the course of an over on CW ?

Thanks

Barry Simpson  VK2BJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K4: "R" in display

2021-09-09 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Yes,Ludwig, it works OK, now!

I use Thunderbird as well and have set it to plain text from the start 
using it. I am against any markup. It has been asked many times to 
change that on the qth.net mailman and many times was responded with 
"no" by the maintainers. Users that send both should know that markup is 
removed and only the plain text part is distributed.

Data is money so keep the data as small as possible.

73,
Peter

Op 09-09-2021 om 13:46 schreef Ludwig Hechler:

Oops, I'm sorry!

I configured my Thunderbird and hope it works now.
Here is my text again.

Hi folks,

finally my K4 has arrived in DL. And here is my first question.

What is the "R" in the display below the filter icon of the SUB RX?
The upper part of the "R" is white, the lower part is yellow. Some
illustrations in the Introduction to the Elecraft K4, e.g. the page
RECEIVER CONTROLS AND ICONS, show the icon K4D at this
position. Mine is a basic K4 without D.

thanks & 73,
Lui, DL6FBR

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Re: [Elecraft] K4: "R" in display

2021-09-09 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Hi Ludwig,

You should write mails in plain text on this reflector.
HTML-only mails come through completely empty.

Attachments are also not allowed and will be stripped as well!

73,
Peter - PA0PJE

Op 09-09-2021 om 08:37 schreef Ludwig Hechler:


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 208, Issue 13

2021-08-24 Thread Peter Reinzuch via Elecraft
Message 17
How much for the K3 package  ….call me 
760-318-0186

Peter VE7REZ 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 24, 2021, at 3:04 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
>elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf and .html
>  (David Gilbert)
>   2. Re: KX2 temperature (Howard Hoyt)
>   3. Re: Reversed K4 Rear Panel Drawing (Bill Steffey NY9H)
>   4. Re: KX2 temperature (Gary Slagel)
>   5. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Michael Kholodov)
>   6. Elecraft CW Net Report (kevin)
>   7. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (jerry)
>   8. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Henk de Vries)
>   9. Re: K3S audio quality issue [SOLVED] (Mike Kholodov)
>  10. KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
>  11. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (jerry)
>  12. 40 METER NET / 80 METER NET 8-22-21 (Steve Hall)
>  13. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Don Wilhelm)
>  14. Re: KIO2 and KUSB for K2? (Paul Huff)
>  15. Any update on KIO3BUPKT_KIO3B Upgrade Kits for the K3 (Bill Wiehe)
>  16. For Sale: KX3 + KXPA100 + PX3 + MH3 (VA7KL)
>  17. For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (VA7KL)
>  18. Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
>  19. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
>  20. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
>  21. Re: For Sale: K3S + KPA500 + KAT500 + P3 + TXSensor + MH2 (Dave)
>  22. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (James Bennett)
>  23. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Walter Underwood)
>  24. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Jim Brown)
>  25. Re: Ground Wire & Coax (Phil Kane)
>  26. KX3, PX3, KXPA00 for trade or sale. (marvwhee...@nwlink.com)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2021 20:35:28 -0700
> From: David Gilbert 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 operating manual now available as both .pdf
>and .html
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
> 
> 
> I never understood why Elecraft put out the PDF file as white text on a 
> black background in the first place.? It can't be printed, and if you 
> have to read it online the html version makes more sense.? It just seems 
> lazy to me for them not to have converted it on their end.
> 
> Dave?? AB7E
> 
> 
> 
> On 8/21/2021 7:29 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
>>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background
>> 
>> I can make the manual (K4 Built-In Operating Manual, rev C9.pdf) look 
>> the way I want on the screen (black text on a white background with 
>> images rendered in correct colors) in Adobe Reader by selecting:
>> 
>> Edit > Preferences > Accessibility
>> 
>> and then:
>> 
>> select "Replace Document Colors"
>> select "Use High-contrast colors"
>> unselect "Only change the color of black text or line art."
>> unselect "Change the color of line art as well as text."
>> select "High-contrast color combination:" = "Black text on white".
>> 
>> However, although it looks correct on the screen, when I print it it 
>> still comes out with the black background.
>> 
>> I'm just using the free version of Adobe Reader.? Perhaps someone with 
>> a paid-up version can get it to print correctly (print to a printer or 
>> print to another PDF file).
>> 
>> Alan N1AL
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 8/5/2021 4:08 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>>> Rev. C9 of the K4 operating manual can be found here:
>>> 
>>> https://elecraft.com/pages/k4-high-performance-direct-sampling-sdr-manuals
>>> 
>>> In addition to the .html version, we're now providing a .pdf, as 
>>> requested.
>>> 
>>> NOTE:? The operating manual has a black background, consistent with 
>>> the color scheme used for all text boxes on the K4's LCD. Obviously, 
>>> printing a hard copy wouldn't be advised, as you would consume the 
>>> entire ink supply at your local Office Depot. It cannot be easily 
>>> converted to a white background given all of the text styles used, so 
>>> this isn't 

Re: [Elecraft] Broke my K2 :(

2021-07-14 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Yes Jerry, isopropyl alcohol does this!
I once cleaned a working print of a GPS receiver with isopropyl alcohol 
and it stopped working. Letting it be and trying it again next day 
turned out it worked perfectly again.


 From then on I leave a PCB to rest after cleaning to have the IPA dry 
out completely...


73,
Peter - PA0PJE





Op 14-07-2021 om 14:54 schreef jerry:

Actually, I suspect that when I scrubbed it with isopropyl alcohol, it
shorted out

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[Elecraft] K3s USB connection fail

2021-06-30 Thread Peter Alterman
After a couple weeks of inactivity with antennas disconnected I put everything 
back together and turned on my K3s only to find that N1MM+ logger did not see 
it.  I swapped out USB cables to no effect.  I swapped out another Win 10 
computer to no effect.  On Win 10 I went into device manager and confirmed the 
FTDI serial emulator on COM4 was working properly.  I went into the config tab 
on N1MM+ and confirmed the K3s was linked to COM4 and the proper settings were 
still in place, 38400, N, *, 1, no, no.  I swapped USB sockets on the computer 
to no effect.  I changed to COM9 on both computer and N1MM+ to no effect.  I 
rebooted the computer and the radio after every change to no effect.  The K3s 
does respond properly to the Winkeyer on COM5 and it transmits and receives 
using VOX normally.

I don’t know where to go from here.  Assistance greatly appreciated.

Peter W2CDO


Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nano VNA

2021-06-27 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

>>"limited to Windows"
Not so: NanoVNA-saver is software written in Python and is platform 
independent. I use it on Linux Mint 20.1


https://github.com/NanoVNA-Saver/nanovna-saver

73,
Peter - PA0PJE

Op 25-06-2021 om 14:17 schreef w2xj:

The problem with that is it requires a computer and is apparently limited to 
Windows software. Nano VNA is self contained.

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Re: [Elecraft] Demure Request -- html test email

2021-05-13 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)



No it does not change HTML into plain text. The average mail client, 
like Thunderbird can be set to send both HTML and plain text.
Some clients, more specifically those that use webmail CAN send in HTML 
only.  'Smart' phones and tablets have this deficiency too. That leaves 
a blank message on this reflector.
Those people that use markup in their text hoping that bold and italic 
or colors get through, beware: It does NOT work here.

Lest's keep it that way.

I for one send plain text only, no HTML at all.

73
Peter - PA0PJE


Op 13-05-2021 om 01:35 schreef Bill Lederer:

Ok, my bad.

On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 5:55 PM Edward H Russell  wrote:


Hi w8lvn,



This is a legitimate test. We have determined that the server is not
blanking html, but turning it into plain text.



Thanks,



Ed / w2rf

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[Elecraft] Repair service

2021-04-11 Thread Peter Reinzuch via Elecraft
My Panadapter has quit working.   When I press the power switch I get a white 
screen briefly it says :

P3 Boot Loader
Checksum TEST

Then screen blanks out. 
I have tried rebooting by holding  power switch while I plug the power cord 
back in. No luck!
Any suggestions ?
I have filled out the request online  to get a ticket to send it in for repair 
no reply. ? Who should I try and contact to see if I can get it working .
73 Peter VE7REZ 

 




Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] Code to Command DVK

2021-03-06 Thread Peter Chamalian
I'm looking for some code that I can write into an N1MM macro that will
trigger playing one of the 4 memories in a K3S.  I've looked in the
programmer reference manual but I'm not finding any command to do that.

 

Any suggestions?

 

 

Pete Chamalian, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] RTL SDR dongle

2021-02-08 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Eric,

I have a NooElec R820T that does work from 25.85 MHz to 1766 MHz

Anything lower that that needs an upconverter afaik.
I can tell GQRX to go lower but it then detects nothing anymore...
GQRX is a Linux SDR program where a funcion that says "No limits" allows 
to tune higher and lower than these two frequency limits.


I suppose you more likely need an attenuator between the upmixer and the 
dongle.


73,
Peter PA0PJE

Op 08-02-2021 om 14:48 schreef Eric Lanzl:

Regarding the RTL SDR dongle. I notice that it says that the dongle will go 
down to 500 khz with reduced sampling below 24 mhz. I wias wondering if one 
needs to get an up converter to get it to work? Or will the reduced functioning 
be ok for a basic pan adapter. Also, does it require a buffer amp or not for 
the K3?

Thanks,

Eric WB9JNZ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3util error on Linux Mint 19.3 64 bit.

2020-12-21 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Dave,

https://launchpad.net/gtkhtml
But just versions for Trusty and Precise. No updates after 2013

I have the same error on the help but never needed it. Also in the GUI 
btw in KX3UtilityLINUX_1_19_9_6 which runs fine in 64bit Linux.


I found several "libwebkits" in Synaptic
Installed are Libwebkit2GTK 4.0-37 and Libwebkitgtk 3.0.

I won't tell you to update to Mint 20...
I use 19.3 MATE desktop and leave it that way. Tested 20 on an old 
laptop and VBox6.0.


Stay safe 73,
Peter PA0PJE

Op 20-12-2020 om 19:22 schreef Dave B via Elecraft:
Tried the Help button, nothing, except in the underlying Terminal session:-

Could not load libWebKit
Could not load libGtkHTML

is shown.  ( Hmmm... WebKit, isn't that some proprietary Apple thing? )

Anyway, the only button there that does anything is the "Cancel" button.

So, where to next!

I have presently mislaid the user manual by-the-way, and I had odd
errors attempting to pull a version from Elecraft with FireFox.

Any suggestions welcome.  Oh, anyone who tells me to update to Mint 20,
will be shot!  That isn't going to happen yet a while.

73.

Dave G8KBV.
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Re: [Elecraft] Arecibo antenna collapses

2020-12-02 Thread Peter Hall
Frank,

I was the foundation project engineer for the Square Kilometre Array (which 
your URL refers to), as well as leading much of the effort to get the SKA 
pathfinders on the ground here in Western Australia.  As you know, there's a 
complementary section of the Telescope in South Africa.  Naturally we're all 
excited about the prospects of the SKA, with the pathfinders having already 
done much good work.  However, despite many advances in signal processing over 
the years there is still a place for very large single aperture telescopes, 
such as the Chinese FAST instrument and (formerly) Arecibo.  I might add that a 
good deal of the impetus for FAST came from the Chinese participation in the 
SKA consortium, a body in which the US originally participated but later 
withdrew from.  While the millions of dollars do indeed mount up, the direct 
benefits and spin-offs from astronomy are substantial, even putting aside the 
basic science outcomes.  I certainly hope the US is able to continue on its 
distinguished path in radio astronomy and, SKA and FAST aside, there are many 
other prospects - on and off-shore - for ensuring that happens.  Like all 
science, though, it relies on the enlightened being able to spread the good 
word!

73, Peter (VK6HP).




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Frank Stein
Sent: Thursday, 3 December 2020 10:20 AM
To: Wes 
Cc:  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Arecibo antenna collapses

There is also the Square kilometer array radio telescope:
https://secure-web.cisco.com/12MAQQcd67xMePXjKd5h8T5I3McR14SDT4pj4Zx1A9cA08lv5nb8kOz0ZNAvZX7GbXyBQ-YSj_PmhDxNs3AlPdEx8-DL3FE-ZfPRtfBQwb6L5l06oidXgV_pudn0RjC4twig28CEn5qf9qqWWAey1azWK0TGwqHtIzASG3YBZhyJ-xrGUpz2x6sMGYKEWlg0qj-bHsWpA0lzPav6HAYtn9zFUmFBkDedjsZ5VSdPKmJeEKouXEzLAHbNJ_HnJ6LqHZQDTDJ7jLRyZutzV23lOI6A3jj4Mcbuab07BQrN0VV-6bCdnPvNpZNDWRFczzGu-F1fGlvlfXCGhCTigYwsyERaQLafgwrCJVuKdKww-6uFBy9lftPLhRazSzlCZX7--hRyXLmaD4auG6WsEz1YUxd9moALrCA-7mNSRynjOZrLRm0AKYjyi5G0v7yfYkN9D_D79Bn8paF0SbEa7S7Y3i8zAevBzseCNeDmzNNp7EaU/https%3A%2F%2Fwww.skatelescope.org%2F

It could be ready to operate before the decade is out and is even bigger.

- frank
W4TG

On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 7:03 PM Wes  wrote:

> Did they show you the transmitter?
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
>
> On 12/2/2020 10:22 AM, Andrew Faber via Elecraft wrote:
> > This is certainly getting way off topic on the Elecraft reflector, 
> > but I
> can’t resist mentioning that I have visited the FAST telescope in 
> Guizhou Province.  Here is a brief explanation from my trip notes (we 
> were guests because my wife is an astronomer with many Chinese 
> colleagues).  It’s odd that they are creating a tourist destination, 
> since normally such telescopes are located to minimize RFI.
> >
> > “We were met by a driver from FAST in a Honda Odyssey for the 
> > two-hour
> drive to Pingtang, China’s self-proclaimed “Astronomy City.”  There is 
> a huge amount of new construction, as they try to take advantage of 
> the FAST to create a tourist destination. There are new shops and 
> hotels being built, and on the sides of the roads they even have 
> statues and bas reliefs of famous scientists and scientific 
> instruments.  FAST stands for “Five hundred meter Aperture Spherical 
> radio Telescope,” and that’s just what it is – outdoing the 300-meter 
> radio telescope at Arecibo, Puerto Rico by far.  It’s in a valley that 
> had a dozen or so homes before they houses were demolished.  It’s 500 
> meters across, and is partly steerable, since the panels can be 
> somewhat deformed by 4,000 actuators pulling on cables that tug on the 
> panels that comprise the reflective surface.  The receiving “cabin” is 
> suspended on cables attached to six huge (maybe 350-400 feet
> tall) towers.  So by moving the cabin and pulling on cables, they can 
> apparently track through about 20 degrees, unlike Arecibo, which is 
> fixed in a spherical shape.  The actuators that deform the mirror into 
> a parabola are hydraulic and need only pull about a foot and a half or 
> so on each cable.  Although it was late, we drove down for a quick 
> look at the telescope, since it wasn’t raining.  It’s an unbelievably 
> impressive mechanical construct.
> >
> > 73, andy ae6y
>
>
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Post

Re: [Elecraft] K4D vs K4HD

2020-10-08 Thread Peter Chamalian
Great, thanks Wayne.  It will be exciting to see these new rigs start to
roll off the assembly line and into the hands of users.


Pete, W1RM
w...@comcast.net

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick  
Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2020 1:10 PM
To: Peter Chamalian 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4D vs K4HD

Peter,

The K4HD has been delayed due to all the recent challenges (pandemic,
lockdown, fires). 

The K4D has been tested in heavy contesting conditions with stations in line
of sight each other, without any kind of overload issues reported. Like
these operators, most will find they don't need the HDR module. For those
who do, it'll be retrofittable at any point in time to convert a K4D into an
HD. 

73,
Wayne
N6KR


> On Oct 8, 2020, at 9:43 AM, Peter Chamalian  wrote:
> 
> I've read the specs but I can't translate that into practical terms.  
> I suspect the K4HD is a better choice when you are in a multi 
> transmitter environment like FD or a multi-multi but are there other 
> situations where the HD is a better choice?  I do have a few local 
> hams and I have encountered some problems when we are on 6 meters but 
> otherwise no real interference or rx blocking problems.  I have  K3S.
> 
> 
> 
> Do any of the beta testers have a K4HD?  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete, W1RM
> 
> w...@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K4D vs K4HD

2020-10-08 Thread Peter Chamalian
I've read the specs but I can't translate that into practical terms.  I
suspect the K4HD is a better choice when you are in a multi transmitter
environment like FD or a multi-multi but are there other situations where
the HD is a better choice?  I do have a few local hams and I have
encountered some problems when we are on 6 meters but otherwise no real
interference or rx blocking problems.  I have  K3S.

 

Do any of the beta testers have a K4HD?  

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] With the K4 coming, is it time to replace this email list with a forum?

2020-09-07 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)
privately asking people to stop a 
particular
thread, no matter how long, off topic or repetitive it gets. Email me 
instead

 . I will step in when I feel it is necessary to end a thread.
(eric(at)elecraft.com)

5a1. Please exercise restraint in posting when a thread is getting heavily
covered. 30 posts on one topic in a day (like the recurring CW thread) is
usually excessive.

5b. Please do not post any direct attacks or snide comments directed at a
list member. Enthusiastic arguments are encouraged, but please keep
everything cordial. Members who verbally attack another (either via the list
or via direct email) will be removed from the list.

As the 'official' list moderator, I'll jump in as necessary to keep 
everything

orderly. I do this off line and occasionally to the list when it is
appropriate. Our goal is to keep the Elecraft list a fun, informative
central clearing house for Elecraft information and enthusiasm.


6. Please DO POST your technical questions and comments to the list.
Elecraft owners are your best source for quick answers (and they NEVER
sleep!) If you don't get the answers you need from the list please email us
direct at support(at)elecraft.com , which is our customer service 
address. We

do try to watch the list traffic, but we may not respond to everything
immediately and may miss some postings sent to the list or our personal
addresses.

7. Please post your experiences with your Elecraft kit, DX worked, crazy
ideas, product ideas, complaints (yes - we do want to hear them).

7. Commercial postings are allowed if they relate to Elecraft products, QRP,
QRO, home-brewing, building etc. and are of interest to this list's
membership. Please keep them as short as possible and provide web links to
more detailed information. I'll step in if we feel someone is posting too
many messages of this type.

7a. Please limit commercial postings to one per month per offering or
product area (i.e. Builder for Hire postings, ham radio related products 
etc.)


8. Personal attacks, flames, or strongly worded derogatory messages will not
be tolerated. (Pausing overnight before pressing the send key really
helps..) Please do not criticize postings by others.

9. Send parts requests direct to pa...@elecraft.com, not to the list.

10. If you don't get an answer to a question from the list, or by checking
the list archives, don't forget to check the Builder's Resource Page at
http://www.elecraft.com and our support email address: supp...@elecraft.com

11. And above all, HAVE FUN!. We hope that this list is both a good
technical resource and serves as a Elecraft community gathering place. We
enjoy reading it every day and it really helps us keep our energy level high
so we can continue getting exciting new kit projects out the door to you!

73, Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft List Moderator



So not new at all, I think.

73,
Peter - PA0PJE
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[Elecraft] K4 info

2020-08-30 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

I support having a separate K4 group.


I don't. I filter each Elecraft gear item in separate subfolders under a 
main folder called Elecraft.


The real problem with this is the shear lack of users of this list to 
mention the type of Elecraft gear they want to talk about.


Many users of the K3 for example, probably the most used  gear, think: 
"If I ask something about a setting of something everyone should know 
I'm talking about my K3", so they end up in the main folder and I have a 
hard time to get rid of these messages...


Messages from users of the digest that do not change the subject line:
Those messages are filtered straight to the trash... When I close 
Tunderbird the trash is emptied automaically.


If only we could stick to the RULE that one starts an item with the type 
of gear I would be very happy because the filter can take good care of this.


Please use the reflector and do not divert to yahoo/google/groups.io 
etc. Share information at one place, do not split it up.


73,
Peter - PA0PJE




Op 30-08-2020 om 14:53 schreef John Bohnovic:

I can filter all of the Elecraft groups so that all of the messages from
the different groups appear in one folder. I don't do that because I
want them in separate folders.

I support having a separate K4 group.

73..de John/K4WJ

On 8/29/2020 11:57 AM, Tom Azlin W7SUA wrote:

I like having all the Elecraft discussion on this reflector. I do not
consider any of it as tying up this one.

Tom w7sua ( group 2 order for a K4, have the K-Line)

On 8/26/2020 7:34 PM, Nr4c wrote:

More likely this information will come from us as we announce the
various stages of the delivery progress to the group on one of the
reflectors, probably the K4 group so as not to tie up this one with a
lot of traffic not of interest to the mass membership.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Symbol T in KX3 display

2020-08-20 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

Joe, you can download owner's manual/errata/accessory/tips etc here:

https://elecraft.com/pages/kx3-high-perofrmance-portable-transceiver-manuals

Page 8 of the manual describes all the display items.

72/73,
Peter

On 2020-08-19 at 20:06 Wayne Burdick wrote:

The 'T' indicates that text decode is turned on.

Wayne
N6KR



On Aug 19, 2020, at 9:30 AM, Joseph Trombino, Jr  wrote:





Howdy Gang.

Been a while since I had a KX3 and just recently bought another one…I guess I 
just like them (grin).

In changing menu choices for my style of CW operating I noticed the letter T in 
the bottom right of the display next to the B VFO icon.

Believe this has something to do with digital operating but can’t remember.  
Waiting for the manual to arrive (omitted in shipment) so could some kind
Elecrafter out there clue me in?

In normal CW mode I don’t believe the T should be in the display.

Many thanks for jogging the memory of an old fool!!

Stay healthy and take care.

CU on the air, CW of course!!

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am


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[Elecraft] A very strange problem

2020-08-12 Thread Peter Chamalian
On a few occasions I have had reports of a broad signal generating key
clicks.  One report was backed up with a photo of a pan adapter screen shot.
Subsequent checks with a local showed no such problem.  The station who
reported the problem told me he had received a similar report from a number
of guys.

 

I don't have anything unusual in my setup.  I'm running a K3S at 32 watts
driving a Expert 2K-FA.  At the time of this report I was working a station
is MS so my 20 meter beam was pointing just south of the house.  

 

I was concerned that somehow the amp keying was getting in the act but that
would not account for a broad signal only clicks which the amp has circuitry
to eliminate any hot switching.  In conversations with W5UQ at Expert he
suggested the possibility of RF so I ordered the Palomar Engineering
filtering kits for both the amp and K3S.  I'll put them on as soon as they
arrive.

 

Has anyone run into similar problems?  If so can you reproduce them?  Better
have you found the source and fixed it?

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 transmit limitations

2020-08-11 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)




On 10-08-2020 at 22:35 jcj...@lagoon.nc wrote:

and they have a right to be strict.


Sorry Pierre, "they" don't... Not for radio amateurs.

Professional use like land, sea and air maybe yes.
CB certainly.

Amateurs have a license to live up to. Government may restrict 
commercial amateur gear to be restricted when it leaves the factory but 
if a licensed amateur hampers this for the sake of having special 
functions they should be able to do so without rendering the radio 
illegal. A K2 is not leaving the factory as a complete unit but as a 
bunch of parts that can be put together by qualified users. Spain as a 
country should in that case be to blame, not Elecraft be forced to make 
adaptions to the kit. As should of course Nouvelle Caledonie.



73,
Peter - PA0PJE


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[Elecraft] KPA1500 PSU fan speed mod a success

2020-07-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
Hi all,
Just wanted to reach out and say a great big THANK YOU to my good friend and
fellow NJDXA and FRC member Dave, WO2X for taking point and finding a fix
for my perpetually noisy KPA-1500 power supply fan. It had always been
annoying, but after the Covid lockdown and my wife had to work from home,
she was in the office/hamshack here 10+ hours a day, and leaving the KPA
powered up in standby was just too loud for her to concentrate.

It cost about $64 shipped to get the replacement front panel LED board,
which includes a higher-value 3W resistor that reduces the idling fan noise
to almost nothing now. It's a very simple mod that in retrospect I could
have done myself, but for me with my shaky hands and not-great eyesight it's
a big plus to have a friend like Dave who knows his stuff. If you have an
older KPA1500 and the PSU fans (not the RF deck fans) were driving you nuts,
this mod works great, and eliminates a big source of frustration.


-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Mush

2020-07-02 Thread Peter Chamalian
Thanks Bob.  I set my AGC SLP to 5 and thr to 14 and it helps.  I’ll have to 
play with your values and see if it’s better.

 

My RF gain is at 3 o’clock.

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

From: Bob Wilson, N6TV  
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2020 8:34 PM
To: Peter Chamalian 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Mush

 

See also

 

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-Receiver-mush-td7627277.html#a7627323

73,
Bob, N6TV

 

On Thu, Jul 2, 2020, 2:34 PM Peter Chamalian mailto:w...@comcast.net> > wrote:

My K3S is turning CW into mush.  Huge pile ups as K2D are really hard to
deal with.  Any suggestions other than get a K4 which I have on order?





Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net <mailto:w...@comcast.net> 



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[Elecraft] CW Mush

2020-07-02 Thread Peter Chamalian
My K3S is turning CW into mush.  Huge pile ups as K2D are really hard to
deal with.  Any suggestions other than get a K4 which I have on order?

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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[Elecraft] K3S and Micro Keyer II issue

2020-06-29 Thread Peter Chamalian
I'm running the K3S and Micro Keyer II.  When I go on digital there are
times when the K3S appears to be putting out RF but there is none.  When I
switch to CW all's well.  

 

If I turn the K3S, Microkeyer II off and shut down the device router
software then turn it all back on, I get RF out on digital.

 

Any ideas as to what's going on and what to do about it?

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] URL???

2020-06-27 Thread Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)

The thing is that what you sent was not a URL.
One should not omit the protocol...
I copied the URL from my browser and pasted it here. It adds "https://;

https://catalog.data.gov/dataset/ionospheric-digital-database

is the true URL including the protocol and should be shown as such in 
any decent mail client and be clickable to launch your browser.


73,
Peter

Op 27-06-2020 om 06:17 schreef ab2tc:

Hi Kevin,

I am not sure what the problem is, but the link to
"catalog.data.gov/dataset/ionospheric-digital-database" in your original
post works fine here. Interesting information as always from NOAA. I don't
think there is any problem sending URLs (links) to the reflector. I can't
comment on how the reflector responds (or not) to E-mail sent to it as I
always use other means to communicate with it.

I apologize if Nabble has added ads to this response. If it has, I will
abandon Nabble and find other means to respond to reflector messages.

AB2TC - Knut


David Herring wrote

I can be corrected if I’m wrong, but my understanding (and personal
experience) is that the reflector does not send a copy of an email back to
the sender. At least it’s never done it for me. I usually see my messages
when someone responds to it and its included in their response.

As far as the link you sent, it came through 5-9. I checked it out
earlier. ;-)

73,
David - N5DCH




On Jun 26, 2020, at 7:23 PM, kevinr 



kevinr@



 wrote:


Is is illegal to send a URL to the Elecraft Reflector?

I have tried three times thus far to send one but the email never
appears.

catalog dot data dot gov slant dataset slant ionospheric-digital-database

Replace each space dot space with a single .

Replace each space slant space with a single /

Hopefully this encrypted form of URL will pass the censor.

Kevin.  KD5ONS


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[Elecraft] K4 on FD -- who?

2020-06-25 Thread Peter Chamalian
Please tell us which stations will be using K4's on FD?  I want to pay close
attention to them.

 

Thanks

 

 

Pete, W1RM

w...@comcast.net

 

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Re: [Elecraft] New CW audio recording: K3 vs. K4D

2020-06-25 Thread Peter Chamalian
I would like to hear this same A/B comparison but in a pile-up with 4 or
more stations calling.  I must confess the hard edge on the K4 "feels" more
like a click to me but that's just my initial reaction.  I have pre-ordered
a K4HD.


Pete, W1RM
w...@comcast.net

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Bob Wilson, N6TV
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:24 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] New CW audio recording: K3 vs. K4D

This afternoon I made a 3-1/2 minute audio recording of two stations in QSO
with each other on 40 CW, using both a K3 and K4D, and switching back and
forth.  Download here (2.3 MB):

https://www.kkn.net/~n6tv/K3_vs_K4D_CW_Audio_by_N6TV_20200625.mp3

Recorded off rear headphone jack using an MK2R+ USB Sound Card.

In sum, I think the K4D audio sounds quite a bit better, but the "500 Hz"
passband of the K4 seems wider than the K3 (wider skirts?).  The AGC attack
time seems slower in the K4 (similar to Icom IC-7851 fast AGC, IMHO).  So
the "leading edge" of each dot or dash is louder, which may improve copy a
bit.

The loud station (about 599 + 10 dB) is AC2K in AZ, and the weaker one
(about S-6 to S-7) is NZ0T in MO.

Timestamp  What you're hearing
   ---
00:00 - 00:16  K3
00:19 - 01:00  K4
01:01 - 01:21  K4 with NR engaged and adjusted for best copy ("Level 3")
  (Tuned range 0 to 10, the complete range)
01:22 - 01:25  K3
01:26 - 01:58  K3 with NR F1-2 (didn't adjust)
02:00 - 02:35  K4 NR off I think
02:37 - 03:10  K3 NR off
03:13 - 03:20  K4

K3 is S/N 1495 with KSYN3A upgrade but original DSP board and Inrad 500 Hz
8-pole CW crystal filter, with W9AC Audio Mod
.
(capacitors changed in headphone circuit to increase low end audio response)
K4D Field Test Unit S/N 0008

K3 and K4 were set with identical parameters where possible:

AGC-F, ATT OFF, PRE OFF
RF Gain about 3 O'Clock on K3.
RF Gain 0 (max) on K4
CW mode, 500 Hz bandwidth
Pitch 480 Hz / center of passband IF shift AGC Attack:  210 (K4 only) AGC
DCY Soft (K3 only) AGC HLD 0.05 (K3 only) AGC PLS NOR/ON AGC SLP 008 (K3)
AGC Slope 15 (K4 -- units are different) AGC THR 010 (K3) AGC Threshold 4
(K4 -- units are different) AGC-F / AGC Decay, Fast:120 AGC-S / AGC Decay,
Slow:  20

73,
Bob, N6TV
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RTTY Setup

2020-06-20 Thread Peter Lock
Hi John, experienced this once or twice myself.  There is a setting in N1MM+
to check.  From the N1MM+ log entry window, select Config, Mode Control and
in the combo box against "Mode RTTY" select "AFSK" for the appropriate
Radio/VFO. That may also resolve your hung PTT; VOX should then work.

Good luck

Peter
M0RYB

I've recently changed from FSK to AFSK, and having issues. FWIW, I am 
using N1MM with 2Tone as my RTTY interface, with the K3 internal sound card.

First, When I go to DATA MD, it is always set to FSK D. I reset it to 
AFSK A and it works; however, if I change bands, it resets itself to FSK 
D. The AFSK A setting does not "stick" - is there a way to make the K3 
remember this setting?

Second, the K3 is staying in Transmit after the RTTY message is 
finished. I usually have to press the XMIT button to return to receive. 
I do not have anything setup in the 2Tone PTT box, which I suspect is 
the problem. I tried to use the serial DTR, but 2Tone was unable to use 
the serial port that N1MM was using. I also tried VOX, but did not see a 
difference. Any suggestions for setting up AFSK PTT?

Thanks,
   - 73, John, N0TA




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Re: [Elecraft] Best Audio Interfaces 2020?

2020-06-15 Thread Peter Dougherty
If you have a K3s with the built in codecs that's not the case at all. It's
its own independent audio device. 

For original K3 radios and other earlier rigs without built-in USB audio, I
recommend the Microham Microkeyer-II. It ran my Yaesu Mark V based shack for
about 10 years, and I got the cables to let it handle my K3s for a while,
but eventually I just simplified everything and I took the MK-II out of line
and resorted to USB connectivity. Not a single problem since then. PC
sounds, video, music, etc, go to the motherboard sound interface, and the
rig sounds (digimodes in/out and DVK from the PC to the radio) via the
separate USB interface built into the K3s.

If you have a radio without the USB interface ping me off-list and maybe we
can make a deal on my no-longer-needed MicroKeyer-II? 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of W6IPA
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 5:47 PM
To: Wes 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Best Audio Interfaces 2020?

The matter is that you will send all the OS sounds to that interface
(because you have only one)- and at this point you need to chase all the
notifications what will be sending sound, and you cannot watch youtube
anymore :-)

JC/W6IPA.

> On Jun 15, 2020, at 2:31 PM, Wes  wrote:
> 
> What's the matter with the internal soundcard in your computer?
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> On 6/15/2020 9:30 AM, Eric KG6MZS wrote:
>> Hello All,
>> 
>> I just scanned the archives for recommendations on a good external USB
audio interface for sound card digital. In 2017 Jim (K9YC) recommended two
(ASUS and Newmark) that are no longer available.
>> 
>> What are the current favs that are out there now?
>> 
>> TIA,
>> Eric
>> KG6MZS
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Data protection and recovery techniques

2020-06-14 Thread Peter Dougherty
I have a paid Dropbox account, supplemented by Microsoft OneDrive, folders for 
which reside on my D: drive. All my data (including pictures, videos, music, 
documents, and work projects) go in there AND get backed up to a local NAS for 
redundancy. The OS partition (C : drive) including all software, settings, 
download, temporary and archive folders are backed up using a differential 
scheme to a NAS device daily, and a full backup to a Passport drive weekly. I 
use Acronis True Image Home for backup/restore software.

All my logs are backed up multiple places for safety, however due to the 
structure of both my DX logger and N1MM+ Contest Logger, they have to be run 
from a non-cloud folder, so extra care is taken in both cases.

I'm less worried about the OS and software; those can be reinstalled easily 
enough over the course of a few days (albeit with lots of swearing involved), 
but the data, all of it irreplaceable, has to be stored in Dropbox (meaning a 
copy exists not just in the cloud but on the hard drive of every computer I own 
that's connected to the account).

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of W2xj
Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:28 AM
To: Bill Frantz 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft]  Data protection and recovery techniques

I backup into the cloud. When I get a new Mac, it restores automatically. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 10:46 PM, Bill Frantz  wrote:
> 
> Being a Mac guy, I use "Time Machine". I do test it every once in a 
> while when I recover a file, but having been in the computer industry 
> for my career, I am generally careful enough that I don't have to 
> recover files. (Knock on wood.)
> 
> I have the largest disk I could find at Costco as a backup disk sitting on my 
> desk.
> 
> The real test comes when I buy an new computer and restore the entire backup 
> to the new machine. That has worked through several new computers. The one 
> time it didn't work, the old backup was so many no-longer-supported levels 
> back, that the new machine didn't recognize it. However, with Time Machine, 
> if you open the backup folder on the backup disk, you can dig down to a 
> complete file system image that can just be copied. I like backup systems 
> that are simple and don't try to do irreversible magic.
> 
> The other dimension of backup is several offsite disks. One is at a house 
> nearby, and another is on the other coast. Whenever I travel to those 
> locations, I make a backup. If everthing here goes up in smoke, I do have 
> some recourse.
> 
> 73 Bill AE6JV
> 
> ---
> Bill Frantz| Can't fix stupid, but   | Periwinkle
> (408)348-7900  | duct tape can muffle the| 150 Rivermead Road #235
> www.pwpconsult.com | sound... - Bill Liebman | Peterborough, NY 03458
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

2020-06-10 Thread Peter Dougherty
The concern is 100% noise. Heat I don’t mind, and it helps in the winter.

I’ll see about a HEPA room filter. The area is a concrete crawl space below my 
shack, about 3 feet high and 25 feet long, with a sheltered window at one end 
and access to the main part of the basement at the other. I would plan to put 
the amp about 8 feet in from the basement entrance, and against an exterior 
wall.

I don’t know what material is dropping over everything, but it’s noticeable. 
Maybe concrete dust? Something from the insulation in the ceiling?? I figured 
if I went down every week or two with a compressor and just blasted air into 
the back to blow anything out that would help. I see you point about air 
filters. 

 

I have a Cat-6 line in there now to an old PC, the drop to my station, and 
another one to my weather station’s RPI. With good shielded coax running in the 
direction opposite direction to the Cat-6 and a few ferrites I think I’ll be OK 
in that area. It’s just the dust contamination I’m concerned about. 

 

- pjd

 

From: Bob Wilson, N6TV  
Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2020 9:10 PM
To: Peter Dougherty ; Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

 

On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 4:33 PM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

1.  The area it will be going into is dusty.

 

Dust is not good for amplifiers.  They must move lots of air through the 
amplifier.  Do you really have to put it there?  Is it because you can't stand 
the fan noise?  Or the heat?

 

I suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the ceiling.

 

Any way to fix that?  Maybe a HEPA room filter?

 

I plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm wondering if
this might be a problem.

 

Well, it won't keep the dust out.  Cool air is blown into the amplifier from 
the rear fans, and out the top (and also through gaps in the front panel if the 
fan speed gets high enough).  A shelf over the amp. could force the hot exhaust 
air to circulate back down close to the intake.  Not good.

 

If so, how often should I get down there with a compressor to blow the crud out 
of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
air filter material over the fan inlet?

 

A filter will probably reduce air flow, and put more stress on the fans.  Not 
good.

 

2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?

 

Cold is good.  Amps like to be cold (KPA1500 has more gain when cold than when 
not).  But if moisture or condensation is a problem down there, not good.

 

3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?

 

A long M/F DE-15 cable should work.  I don't know what the length limit is.  10 
to 15 feet should be OK if you have 2.5' from the K3 ACC to the Y-BOX.   But 
use a well shielded cable.  I recommend this one for extra long runs:

 

https://www.cablesondemand.com/category/HD15/product/CS-DSPMHD15MF/URvars/Items/Library/InfoManage/CS-DSPMHD15MF.htm
 

 

If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty sure
that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.

 

Fire regs?  Can't comment on that, but there is no more than 13V on any pin, 
and very little current, so it's hard to imagine how that cable could cause a 
fire.

 

But once the amp. is down there, how will you monitor it?  Are you planning to 
run a long USB or Ethernet cable down there as well?  A long USB cable will 
probably need ferrites.  A long Ethernet cable should generate RFI if you use 
the unshielded type.  

 

Or are you going to keep a PC in the crawlspace, connected by WiFi, and use 
KPA1500 Remote software?

 

73,

Bob, N6TV

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[Elecraft] A couple of KPA1500 remote operating questions

2020-06-10 Thread Peter Dougherty
Hi all,
Within the next week or two I am hoping to relocate my KPA-1500 to a
basement crawlspace, but before calling in the electrician and getting ready
to move it, I have a couple of questions. 

 

1.  The area it will be going into is dusty. To the point that when I'm
in there to check on my cables or retrieve an equipment box that's stored
down there I have to wear a face mask or I'll be coughing for hours . I
suspect it's particulate dropping down from the insulation in the ceiling. I
plan to put a shelf about 10 inches over top of the amp but I'm wondering if
this might be a problem. If so, how often should I get down there with a
compressor to blow the crud out of everything? Or maybe put a piece of fine
air filter material over the fan inlet?
2.  The crawlspace is not heated and probably gets into the 40s or even
30s during the winter. Would this be a risk?
3.  I'm using the amp with a K3s. At the moment I have a Y-box from the
accessory port, and a cable from the Y-box to the amp. Since this won't be
on the same floor as the radio, how can I get this working with the radio?
If I site the amp immediately below where it is now I could probably run a
10' DB15 extension cable down from the Y-box to the amp, but I'm pretty sure
that will violate all kinds of fire regs. Not sure how I can do this.

 


-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Wake On Lan not working

2020-06-10 Thread Peter Dougherty
Wake On LAN is not functioning on my KPA-1500 using the remote software. I
have the Wake On Lan and DHCP boxes checked in the Network tab in the
configuration settings within the KPA1500 Utility program, and the LAN
settings (including the IP address) are correct. 

 
The only condition in which the remote software (v1.27) can find the KPA1500
is when the amp is manually powered on, after which it operates fine. Once I
power down the amp there is no condition in which I can reattach the
software remotely-I must power the amp on from the front panel button. In
addition to this, just pressing the "connect" button won't do it either. I
have to press the TEST button, wait until it finds the amp, then press
CONNECT and it connects normally.

 

At the moment this isn't a deal breaker, but I intend to remote the amp next
week to a relatively inaccessible space in the basement so I'd like to get
this solved as soon as possible. 

 

As a side issue, the DHCP IP address had changed at some point, and the
remote software did NOT pick up the change. I had to hunt in my router for
the MAC address and enter the new IPV4 address manually into the remote
software.


-
Please and thanks.

Peter, W2IRT

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-09 Thread Peter Kaletsch
Hi Gernot!

You pointed the problem out! I have done really a lot of QRP work (DXCC, all 
continents) landside and of course I will start with low power on board.

Many thanks for your advice to the "Rothhammel". I did not know, that marine 
antennas are a theme there, but I will have a look into for sure!

Best regards

Peter

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: g...@gmx.net [mailto:g...@gmx.net]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 22:21
An: Peter Kaletsch ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

Hello Peter,
I think it depends on your willingnes to sacrify the shape of your boat.
If you want to get heard anywhere then you either need a long vertical plus 
good ground as mentioned already, or a dipole as high above sea level as 
possible. The dipole may be sloped but either the feedpoint needs to be 
elevated or the ends of the wire. I have operated both configurations near 
fresh water with kind of satisfaction (~500km on
7/14 MHz are possible on 10Watts) , but not yet on a boat.

The Rothammel also mentions "Marineantennen" and discusses the grounding and 
antenna suggestions.

Seems like an interesting experiment,
hope you get on the air soon!
73 Gernot DF5RF

BTW, you can use www.deepl.com for a quick translation to German:

"Ich denke, es hängt von Ihrer Bereitschaft ab, die Form Ihres Bootes zu 
opfern. Wenn Sie irgendwo gehört werden wollen, dann brauchen Sie entweder eine 
lange Vertikale plus guten Boden, wie bereits erwähnt, oder einen Dipol so hoch 
über dem Meeresspiegel wie möglich. Der Dipol kann geneigt sein, aber entweder 
der Speisepunkt oder die Drahtenden müssen erhöht sein. Ich habe beide 
Konfigurationen in der Nähe von Süßwasser mit einer gewissen Befriedigung 
betrieben (~500km auf 7/14 MHz sind bei 10Watt möglich), aber noch nicht auf 
einem Boot.

Der Rothammel erwähnt auch "Marineantennen" und bespricht die Erdung und 
Antennenvorschläge.

Scheint ein interessantes Experiment zu sein, Ich hoffe, Sie gehen bald auf 
Sendung!

Übersetzt mit www.DeepL.com/Translator (kostenlose Version)"


Am 08.06.2020 um 22:47 schrieb Peter Kaletsch:
> Hello fellows;
>
> You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
> who wants to try that.
>
> For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a K3 
> well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water usage 
> (Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.
>
> A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a 
> Tarheel Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.
>
> So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where 
> also the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?
>
> But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative 
> things about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.
>
> I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
> the invisible area, but will this work...?
>
> I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to
> pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Peter - DL1MDZ
>
>
> 
> Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel:
> +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | 
> i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht 
> Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz 
> der Gesellschaft: München | Hinweis / reference:
> Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke 
> verwendet werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the 
> intended purposes.
> __
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to g...@gmx.net


Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
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München |
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-09 Thread Peter Kaletsch
No chance hihihihihi :-)

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: W2xj [mailto:w...@w2xj.net]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 22:18
An: Peter Kaletsch 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

marry a ham! :-)

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 3:54 PM, Peter Kaletsch  wrote:
>
> I agree, but I think that's a common issue for married hams! Happy
> wife, happy live :-)
>
> 73, Peter
>
> -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
> Von: W2xj [mailto:w...@w2xj.net]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 18:34
> An: Peter Kaletsch 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible
>
> i think your engineering challenge is primarily balancing esthetics against 
> performance.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Jun 9, 2020, at 6:52 AM, Peter Kaletsch  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> Thanks a lot for all answers and information! Some I still have to read more 
>> accurate ana translate some special parts, because, as you can obviously 
>> read from my post, my English is horrible.
>>
>> I tend - and of course my wife does - to have a fixed installation. So 
>> extendable fiberglass masts or something like this is not the solution we 
>> are searching for.
>>
>> I will think about all suggestions, try some of them and report later this 
>> year, if there are any reporting worth solutions. We take over the boat 
>> during the next 2 weeks and after that, there is a lot of other marine stuff 
>> to do, before focusing on ham radio on board).
>>
>> Further answer are highly welcomed
>>
>>
>> 73, Peter
>>
>> -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
>> Von: Kurt Pawlikowski [mailto:ku...@pinrod.com]
>> Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 03:16
>> An: Peter Kaletsch ;
>> elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible
>>
>> Peter,
>>
>>In general, any vertical works lots better with more radials. As fresh 
>> water is a fairly poor conductor, the more the merrier!
>> Unfortunately, because most boats are wooden/fiberglass, what you can
>> add helps. I don't know if they have to be 1/4 wavelength (I've read
>> yes and some say at least 0.20 wavelength). For HF, this would be
>> some serious lengths for most boats! I expect you'd have to load them
>> similar to the vertical element, but I haven't read anything
>> regarding loading
>> radials: It's just a guess. I suppose one could attempt to replicate, to 
>> some extent, a solid ground plane with foil or some other conductor (maybe 
>> chicken wire?). It would seem a lot of work (and probably is!).
>> If you're insistent on a vertical, it's a narrow field of variability.
>> Some of the portable antenna's can make loaded dipoles or verticals, which 
>> would operate fairly well without a ground plane. Another option might be a 
>> magnetic loop (which doesn't care much about "ground" per se.
>> It is affected by near-by conductors, tunes very narrowly, and is big 
>> (compared to a mobile vertical). So, whatever you choose, it's all some sort 
>> of compromise.
>>
>>kurtt WB9FMC
>>
>>>> On 6/8/2020 3:47 PM, Peter Kaletsch wrote:
>>> Hello fellows;
>>>
>>> You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the 
>>> world who wants to try that.
>>>
>>> For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a 
>>> K3 well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water 
>>> usage (Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.
>>>
>>> A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a 
>>> Tarheel Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.
>>>
>>> So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where 
>>> also the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?
>>>
>>> But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative 
>>> things about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.
>>>
>>> I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck 
>>> in the invisible area, but will this work...?
>>>
>>> I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to
>>> pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance
>>>
>>> Peter - DL1MDZ
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>> Peter Kalets

Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-09 Thread Peter Kaletsch
I agree, but I think that's a common issue for married hams! Happy wife, happy 
live :-)

73, Peter

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: W2xj [mailto:w...@w2xj.net]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 18:34
An: Peter Kaletsch 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

i think your engineering challenge is primarily balancing esthetics against 
performance.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 6:52 AM, Peter Kaletsch  wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> Thanks a lot for all answers and information! Some I still have to read more 
> accurate ana translate some special parts, because, as you can obviously read 
> from my post, my English is horrible.
>
> I tend - and of course my wife does - to have a fixed installation. So 
> extendable fiberglass masts or something like this is not the solution we are 
> searching for.
>
> I will think about all suggestions, try some of them and report later this 
> year, if there are any reporting worth solutions. We take over the boat 
> during the next 2 weeks and after that, there is a lot of other marine stuff 
> to do, before focusing on ham radio on board).
>
> Further answer are highly welcomed
>
>
> 73, Peter
>
> -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
> Von: Kurt Pawlikowski [mailto:ku...@pinrod.com]
> Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 03:16
> An: Peter Kaletsch ;
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible
>
> Peter,
>
> In general, any vertical works lots better with more radials. As fresh 
> water is a fairly poor conductor, the more the merrier!
> Unfortunately, because most boats are wooden/fiberglass, what you can
> add helps. I don't know if they have to be 1/4 wavelength (I've read
> yes and some say at least 0.20 wavelength). For HF, this would be some
> serious lengths for most boats! I expect you'd have to load them
> similar to the vertical element, but I haven't read anything regarding
> loading
> radials: It's just a guess. I suppose one could attempt to replicate, to some 
> extent, a solid ground plane with foil or some other conductor (maybe chicken 
> wire?). It would seem a lot of work (and probably is!).
> If you're insistent on a vertical, it's a narrow field of variability.
> Some of the portable antenna's can make loaded dipoles or verticals, which 
> would operate fairly well without a ground plane. Another option might be a 
> magnetic loop (which doesn't care much about "ground" per se.
> It is affected by near-by conductors, tunes very narrowly, and is big 
> (compared to a mobile vertical). So, whatever you choose, it's all some sort 
> of compromise.
>
> kurtt WB9FMC
>
>> On 6/8/2020 3:47 PM, Peter Kaletsch wrote:
>> Hello fellows;
>>
>> You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
>> who wants to try that.
>>
>> For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a 
>> K3 well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water 
>> usage (Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.
>>
>> A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a 
>> Tarheel Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.
>>
>> So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where 
>> also the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?
>>
>> But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative 
>> things about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.
>>
>> I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
>> the invisible area, but will this work...?
>>
>> I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to
>> pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Peter - DL1MDZ
>>
>>
>> 
>> Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel:
>> +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | 
>> i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht 
>> Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz 
>> der Gesellschaft: München | Hinweis / reference:
>> Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke 
>> verwendet werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the 
>> intended purposes.
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:

Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-09 Thread Peter Kaletsch
Hi folks,

Thanks a lot for all answers and information! Some I still have to read more 
accurate ana translate some special parts, because, as you can obviously read 
from my post, my English is horrible.

I tend - and of course my wife does - to have a fixed installation. So 
extendable fiberglass masts or something like this is not the solution we are 
searching for.

I will think about all suggestions, try some of them and report later this 
year, if there are any reporting worth solutions. We take over the boat during 
the next 2 weeks and after that, there is a lot of other marine stuff to do, 
before focusing on ham radio on board).

Further answer are highly welcomed


73, Peter

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: Kurt Pawlikowski [mailto:ku...@pinrod.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 03:16
An: Peter Kaletsch ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

Peter,

 In general, any vertical works lots better with more radials. As fresh 
water is a fairly poor conductor, the more the merrier!
Unfortunately, because most boats are wooden/fiberglass, what you can add 
helps. I don't know if they have to be 1/4 wavelength (I've read yes and some 
say at least 0.20 wavelength). For HF, this would be some serious lengths for 
most boats! I expect you'd have to load them similar to the vertical element, 
but I haven't read anything regarding loading
radials: It's just a guess. I suppose one could attempt to replicate, to some 
extent, a solid ground plane with foil or some other conductor (maybe chicken 
wire?). It would seem a lot of work (and probably is!).
If you're insistent on a vertical, it's a narrow field of variability.
Some of the portable antenna's can make loaded dipoles or verticals, which 
would operate fairly well without a ground plane. Another option might be a 
magnetic loop (which doesn't care much about "ground" per se.
It is affected by near-by conductors, tunes very narrowly, and is big (compared 
to a mobile vertical). So, whatever you choose, it's all some sort of 
compromise.

 kurtt WB9FMC

On 6/8/2020 3:47 PM, Peter Kaletsch wrote:
> Hello fellows;
>
> You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
> who wants to try that.
>
> For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a K3 
> well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water usage 
> (Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.
>
> A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a 
> Tarheel Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.
>
> So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where 
> also the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?
>
> But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative 
> things about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.
>
> I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
> the invisible area, but will this work...?
>
> I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to
> pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Peter - DL1MDZ
>
>
> 
> Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel:
> +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | 
> i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht 
> Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz 
> der Gesellschaft: München | Hinweis / reference:
> Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke 
> verwendet werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the 
> intended purposes.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> ku...@pinrod.com

Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz der Gesellschaft: 
München |
Hinweis / reference:
Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke verwendet 
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Pos

Re: [Elecraft] tuner

2020-06-08 Thread Peter Kaletsch
Hi Bob;

Thanks a lot! An automatic tuner also was my first idea and I hope, I'll catch 
up here still some motorboat experience form usage of external tuners for this 
purpose.

73, Peter

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: ROBT E WOODWARD JR [mailto:bobwoodw...@mac.com]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 01:04
An: Peter Kaletsch 
Betreff: tuner

Hi Peter

Look into a SGC SG 237 tuner. The AX1 will not handle the power from the K3.

I have used the tuner on land with random length wires for driven and ground.

Good Luck

73  Bob, N6PGQ

Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz der Gesellschaft: 
München |
Hinweis / reference:
Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke verwendet 
werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the intended purposes.
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[Elecraft] WG: K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-08 Thread Peter Kaletsch
Hi;

Thank you very much for the feedback and suggestions.

The suggested setup is surly good for testing, but I would prefer a permanent 
installation more and I am very sure, my wife also does Or should I say, I am 
sure, it's a must for here :-). And also the AX-1 limits the output to 25 
watts...

Best regards

73, Peter

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: W2xj [mailto:w...@w2xj.net]
Gesendet: Dienstag, 9. Juni 2020 00:55
An: Peter Kaletsch 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

try and AX1 with a tripod mount  mounted to the boat and then one or two 
radials over the hull and into the water. Another member expressed interest in 
operating over salt water when additional ground is much less important.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 8, 2020, at 4:48 PM, Peter Kaletsch  wrote:
>
> Hello fellows;
>
> You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
> who wants to try that.
>
> For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a K3 
> well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water usage 
> (Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.
>
> A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a 
> Tarheel Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.
>
> So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where 
> also the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?
>
> But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative 
> things about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.
>
> I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
> the invisible area, but will this work...?
>
> I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to
> pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Peter - DL1MDZ
>
>
> 
> Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel:
> +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | 
> i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht 
> Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz 
> der Gesellschaft: München | Hinweis / reference:
> Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke 
> verwendet werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the 
> intended purposes.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> w...@w2xj.net


Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz der Gesellschaft: 
München |
Hinweis / reference:
Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke verwendet 
werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the intended purposes.
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[Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

2020-06-08 Thread Peter Kaletsch
Hello fellows;

You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
who wants to try that.

For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a K3 
well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water usage 
(Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.

A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a Tarheel 
Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.

So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where also 
the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?

But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative things 
about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.

I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
the invisible area, but will this work...?

I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to 
pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de

Thanks in advance

Peter - DL1MDZ



Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz der Gesellschaft: 
München |
Hinweis / reference:
Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke verwendet 
werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the intended purposes.
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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
Ouch! I'll get a few of these but reserve them for anything in the air that's 
difficult to access. I still have about 5 feet of the Ancor marine heat shrink 
for anything at ground level. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Grant Youngman  

DigiKey has it in 6” or 8” pieces of various diameters.  It runs around $25.00 
per piece, with quantity discounts.  Not inexpensive … 


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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

2020-06-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
My whole ground system is Cadweld bonded. I bought the new style shots and 
purchased the igniter from Joel and the RF Connection in MD. Couldn't have been 
happier. And they're fun to fire off, too! 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Grant Youngman
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 12:05 PM
To: k2...@arrl.net
Cc: Elecraft Refl 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

Cad-weld isn’t expensive — $11-15 per weld depending on where you buy the 
stuff.  Typically sold in kits of 6 one-shot crucibles, and available for 
varying ground wire sizes on 1/2” or 5/8” ground rods.

Grant NQ5T

> On Jun 5, 2020, at 11:17 AM, Phil Kane  wrote:
> 
> On 6/4/2020 8:50 PM, Ed Tanton wrote:
> 
>> I should have mentioned that. I strip 5 or 6 inches of insulation. 
>> That was why I cleaned the top of the ground rod and sprayed it with 
>> electrical lubricant. I used a stainless steel hose clamp to hold the 
>> stripped wires against the ground rod at each end of the stripped 
>> wire portions. The next part is what I wrote about to start with.
> 
> Thank you for explaining that.  For our commercial and public safety 
> communication site grounding systems our firm insists on cad-weld at 
> all exposed and buried connection points but I would suspect that very 
> few hams, let alone residential or even commercial electricians, would 
> go to that length.  My mentor in that area, the late Tom Croda, who 
> during his lifetime was the national expert in comm site power and 
> grounding, would not settle for anything less.
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-05 Thread Peter Dougherty
First time I've ever heard of this product and it's quite intriguing. Where
is this available from in quantities a typical home station would use? I go
through a 3 foot section of .75" marine grade heat shrink in about 3-5
years.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of donov...@starpower.net
Sent: Friday, June 5, 2020 2:03 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

This is an interesting video demonstrating the relative benefits of heat
shrink and cold shrink tubing 


www.youtube.com/watch?v=wSOXfkB6Jgw 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: "Peter Dougherty"  
To: "Edward R Cole" , "Elecraft Reflector"
 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:01:59 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors: 
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb 
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1" 
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said 
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new 
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if 
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground 
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable. 


- pjd 

-Original Message- 
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On

Behalf Of Edward R Cole 
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM 
To: Elecraft Reflector  
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline 

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted 
inner "goo" which is very good sealant. I've found removal is not messy so 
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner. Pretty sure you can buy it at 
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will 
cost you). I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from 
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
not so trivial. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
leaving no residue or old tape.

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
Never sliced my hand (thankfully), but yeah, I've damaged the cable a few 
times. See my correction, though; I use the 130 and marine grade heat shrink as 
my default, not 130 and 88. 

I *_did_* use 130+88 on the LFA yesterday, which is where this current 
discussion started. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Dave Cole  
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 10:59 AM
To: Peter Dougherty ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my hand... 
;)

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when I'm 
> removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. Usually no big 
> deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's on the antenna end it's 
> not so trivial.
> 
>   - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then 
> Scotch 88.  I cut the tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, 
> leaving no residue or old tape.
> 
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
>   
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-04 Thread Peter Dougherty
Ed, this is the stuff I use on my outdoor connectors:
https://tinyurl.com/y7uqqwsb
Marine grade adhesive lined. 3/4" for plain ol' PL259 connections, and 1"
for N connectors. 

And I mis-spoke (mis-typed??) earlier. Had a senior moment when I said
Scotch 130 and Scotch 88 was my default. That HAD BEEN my default. My new
default from about 3 or 4 years ago is Scotch 130 and this heat shrink if
it's in the air, and just the marine grade heat shrink if it's at ground
level. I find this combination to be unbeatable.


 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Edward R Cole
Sent: Thursday, June 4, 2020 3:36 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Some large coax connectors are supplied with heat shrink that has a melted
inner "goo" which is very good sealant.  I've found removal is not messy so
apparently the "goo" cures in some manner.  Pretty sure you can buy it at
commercial electrical suppliers (but probably in 4-foot chunks which will
cost you).  I buy my ordinary heat shrink and tywraps (Thomas & Betts) from
a local commercial electrical supply house. 

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Peter Dougherty
For PL-259 or Type-N to female connections outside my standard practice is
either double-wall marine grade heat shrink, or Scotch-130 self-annealing
tape (probably the same stuff as the 3M 2155) and the marine grade heat
shrink. 

We had a line of storms headed this way after I read your post, and I
decided to lower/tilt the tower over, and I wrapped the screw ends of the
balun with Scotch 130 and Super 88. Not sure what got into me when I put the
antenna up; I guess I figured SS hardware shouldn't be a problem in the
elements, but yeah, better safe than sorry.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Walter Underwood
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 1:10 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

I use the weatherproofing described here. I think this practice has a long
history in telephone wiring. It is a detailed walk-through of what you
described.

https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf
<https://static.dxengineering.com/pdf/WeatherProofingCoax-TechTip.pdf>

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Jun 3, 2020, at 9:58 AM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> 
> I've got to get to class, but there are a NUMBER of different methods and
procedures that are used.
> 
> Self-fusing tape properly applied covered by top-quality electrical tape
to protect the self-fusing tape from UV...
> There are specific points on installation that you want to observe.
> 
> Someone will chime in with deatil or a reference to a procedure...  If
not, I will do it later... Class in 3 minutes.
> 
> 73,
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 06/03/20 10:35, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>> No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless 
>> hardware, but I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in 
>> self-annealing tape and Scotch 88 just to be safe.
>> 
>>  - pjd
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>>  On Behalf Of Dave Cole
>> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna 
>> weatherproofed?
>> 
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>> 
>> On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>> HI all,
>>> 
>>> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
>> replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the 
>> KPA-1500 as I'd originally feared.
>>> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp 
>>> was
>> "iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during 
>> damp or wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna
and feedline.
>>> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the 
>>> Ten-Tec
>> 238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna 
>> switch was now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered 
>> the tower to fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is 
>> humming along just nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and 
>> showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry conditions. I will keep my fingers 
>> crossed that the wet weather expected in the next day or so won't bother
it all that much.
>>> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet 
>>> box to
>> the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now 
>> have an additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a 
>> total of about
>> 1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to 
>> address in the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
>>> Screencaps:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%2
>>> 0s
>>> witch.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And
>>> 
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after
>>> %2
>>> 0tuning.png?dl=0
>>> 
>>> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the 
>>> double-walled heat-shrink was applied:
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?
>>> dl
>>> =0
>>> 
>>>   - pjd
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list

Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-03 Thread Peter Dougherty
No, and I wasn't sure how to accomplish this. It's stainless hardware, but
I'm guessing I should probably wrap the feedpoint up in self-annealing tape
and Scotch 88 just to be safe. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2020 7:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

Hi,

Is the open end of that feedline where it connects to the antenna
weatherproofed?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/2/20 8:15 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> HI all,
> 
> A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many
replies received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500
as I'd originally feared.
> 
> Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was
"iffy" on the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or
wet weather. This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline.
> 
> The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec
238 tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was
now the issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to
fine-tune the LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just
nicely. The KPA-1500 is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry
conditions. I will keep my fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in
the next day or so won't bother it all that much.
> 
> The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to
the main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in
the future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB.
> 
> Screencaps: 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20s
> witch.png?dl=0
> 
> And
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%2
> 0tuning.png?dl=0
> 
> And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the 
> double-walled heat-shrink was applied: 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
>   - pjd
> 
> __
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> d...@nk7z.net
> 
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[Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

2020-06-02 Thread Peter Dougherty
HI all,

A postscript to the problem. First off, a huge thank you to the many replies 
received. I was fortunate that the problem was not in the KPA-1500 as I'd 
originally feared.

Much troubleshooting within the past few days. Originally the amp was "iffy" on 
the old M-squared 6m5, and problematic (faulting) during damp or wet weather. 
This prompted the replacement of both the antenna and feedline. 

The hard faults were still occurring, until it was suggested the Ten-Tec 238 
tuner that I was using exclusively for the built-in antenna switch was now the 
issue. I took this out of line today, and lowered the tower to fine-tune the 
LFA's feed point and now everything is humming along just nicely. The KPA-1500 
is happy at 1.5 kW and showing an SWR of 1.2 in dry conditions. I will keep my 
fingers crossed that the wet weather expected in the next day or so won't 
bother it all that much.

The final step was to move the 6m feedline from the secondary inlet box to the 
main antenna switch on the big tower. The downside here is I now have an 
additional 70 feet of BuryFlex in the line, so I'm guessing a total of about 
1.5 to 1.7dB of feedline loss. This is something I would like to address in the 
future with an eye to dropping it below 1dB. 

Screencaps: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1y4vyd17pbgq8ty/6m%20via%20the%20antenna%20switch.png?dl=0

And 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5x8n0bum4nwcxqp/6m%20LFA%20-%20SWR%20after%20tuning.png?dl=0

And for the balun discussion, this is what's in place, before the double-walled 
heat-shrink was applied: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18pgthl67rtq3bl/2020-05-31%2017.51.08.jpg?dl=0

 - pjd 

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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-02 Thread Peter Dougherty
Just to clarify, I was **NOT** using the tuner to tune the 6m antenna
system. I was using it as a coax switch, so I could keep the KPA-1500
powered down (silencing the very noisy PSU fan) and still be able to receive
6m as well as other bands. 

I need the room to be quiet since my XYL is working-from-home a few feet
away from me in the same room, and the KPA's power supply fan is bothersome
to both her and me.

Ideally, the KPA-1500 should be able to default to either ANT-1 or ANT-2 in
power-down mode but that is not the case. So I need a quiet alternative. I'm
not a fan of tuners of any kind. 

In any event, the TT-238 is out of line now and the SWR problem is
MARGINALLY better on the KPA-1500. It's still showing a higher SWR than the
antenna analyzer measured but it hasn't folded back yet.


 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Mark Goldberg
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 2:10 AM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
Cc: Elecraft Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

I want to mention that my LDG AT-600Pro has a minimum capacitance that is
too high for a good match to my antenna on 6 meters. Certainly seems like
removing the Ten Tec tuner would be a good thing to try. Can you open the
Ten Tec tuner and use an IR thermometer to monitor the components? I don't
know anything about it's construction. You could see them heating up.

Just running medium power of maybe 500W would slow things down and let you
see the SWR increasing before the amp trips. That would confirm that
something is heating up vs arcing.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 9:01 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Plus there is L1 which is 0.3uH in the circuit and C7 and C8 in the 
> circuit when in the bypass position.  This does not allow the tuner, 
> even in bypass mode, to work well as an antenna switch on 6M.
>
>   The capacitors in question are not rated for the RF current 
> experienced under certain load Z conditions.  They heat, change value, 
> and the SWR creeps up.  Allow them to cool and the SWR is back to the
> starting point.I usually tweaked mine such that the SWR started off
> a bit high, came down as I transmitted and if transmitting a bit longer
> the SWR increased.   Later I got tired of this and changed the group of
> disk ceramic caps to 470 pf Russian doorknob caps.  Problem solved.
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> On 6/1/2020 10:08 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> > his might be it, Peter. ! I've used (and loved) the Ten Tec 229 and
> > 238 tuners, but some of their fixed capacitors are under-rated for 
> > power. This is fairly well known among Ten Tec users, so I read 
> > about it somewhere and replaced those in my tuners with caps having 
> > higher power ratings.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
It's a BIT better on ANT-2, but still faults out on occasion, and I'm not 
getting a true SWR reading. It is slightly more stable, though, to answer your 
question.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Vic Rosenthal  
Sent: Tuesday, June 2, 2020 1:01 AM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Jack Brindle ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

Pardon me if this has already been covered, but do you have the same problem if 
you connect the antenna to ANT-2 on the KPA? I know you don’t want to do this 
permanently, but just as a test.

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 2 Jun 2020, at 3:47, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Jack. 
> 
> Here's a FULL summary of what is in the line at this moment from the jack on 
> up.
> 
> PL-259 (soldered, Amphenol 83-1SP as all are) to about 2 feet of RG-213 
> feeding into a Ten-Tec Tuner, which is being used only as an antenna switch 
> and is in bypass. This is needed because the power supply fan noise on the 
> KPA-1500 is just so overwhelming that I can only power it on when needed. I 
> am primarily an HF operator, so ANT-1 is reserved for my HF stack. If I put 
> the 6m antenna on ANT-2, I would need to keep the amp running. So everything 
> goes out on ANT-1, through the TT-238. From there, one feedline goes to the 
> HF stack and the other to the 6m output. It gets SLIGHTLY better if I go 
> directly from the KPA-1500 to the input box, as follows but I still 
> experience faults.
> 
> From there, a PL-259, and 7 or 8 feet of RG-213. Another PL-259, an Amphenol 
> barrel connector in the input box, PL259, then approximately 65 or 70 feet of 
> Commscope-branded LMR-400. PL-259 from that is connected to an Amphenol 
> SO-239 female-to-N-Male, the choke balun, then the driven loop element to the 
> antenna.
> 
> As of Tuesday morning this will change as follows. KPA-1500 ANT-1 out, PL-259 
> and about 40' of Davis BuryFlex out to the remote antenna switch at the base 
> of the HF stack. From there, about 25 more feet of BuryFlex, a barrel 
> connector then the LMR-400 up to the 6m antenna. This will basically just be 
> an experiment to see if there's any improvement; I'll be bypassing both the 
> old Ten-Tec tuner/switch and the inlet box, and routing via the HF signal 
> path and automatic antenna switch. Adding 65' of BuryFlex to the path strikes 
> me as adding measurable and fairly significant loss to an otherwise really 
> good, quiet antenna system, but if it lets me operate without having to worry 
> about hard faults all the time then I'll take that as a tradeoff.
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jack Brindle 
> Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:09 PM
> To: Peter Dougherty 
> Cc: Bob McGraw K4TAX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline
> 
> Lets take another try at this. There still isn’t enough information in your 
> emails to really determine what might be going on. From the amplifier’s 
> viewpoint, *everything* from the antenna jack on the back of the amplifier is 
> part of the antenna system. So far we know it consists of some section of 
> RG213, another of LM400, a balun of some sort, and an antenna. There are 
> undoubtedly some adapters and couplers in between, and perhaps a few other 
> things. Knowing exactly what these are is critical in making any suggestions.
> 
> Every few months since we released the KPA500 we have seen emails from folks 
> who are certain that the amplifier is causing a problem. We all build our 
> stations for low power, then decide that adding an amplifier is needed, so we 
> buy one. We then are faced with issues driving a lot more power into the 
> antenna system. These are caused by deficiencies in that system, which was 
> sized for much lower power, and almost always will contain at least one 
> component that cannot handle the power. The last part of the KPA500 before 
> power goes out is the directional coupler (note: it is after the low pass 
> filters), the KPA1500 has its ATU after those components. With the KPA1500 
> ATU in bypass, the directional coupler becomes the last component. This is 
> important because the directional coupler will see any problem in the antenna 
> system, and report it. No amplifier component is in the way to modify things, 
> we get a true picture of what follows the amplifier. So, when something 
> glitches in the antenna system (usually an arc in a coupler, or an overheated 
> toroid in a balun or matching unit), the directional coupler picks it up and 
> moves to protect the amplifier.
> 
> With this in mind, place the KPA1500 ATU into bypass and perform the test. 
> When you see the fault occur, you then need to look at the entire antenna 
> system, starting at the antenna jack on the back o

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
I have an HF-Auto that is just unsuitable for contest/DX duty, even with the 
kludge workaround software--which often doesn't work right. I gave up on it and 
hope to sell it to a ragchewer who will undoubtedly make better use of it than 
I ever could. 

And I agree about the Palstar support being...unpleasant. I saved up for 3 
years to buy that and I feel sick about it. I would like to find a good 
high-quality tuner that is reliable and able to comfortably handle 1500W and 
(preferably) tune automatically via CAT control.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Adrian
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 11:32 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

My recent experience with Palstar has not been good. An expensive DL1500 dummy 
load in which the SO239 had not been mounted correct bwith the locknut still 
ten turns loose,

requiring dismantle and repair new out of the box by myself. Also a new 
expensive AT2K tuner in which the roller inductor shaft had not been graphite 
greased nor tensioned.

My SPE amp @ 400w went out on alarm quickly until I disassembled and repaired 
myself. I found Palstar support rude and in self denial of the issues I raised.

In hindsight I should have saved a heap of money and gone with MFJ.


On 2/6/20 1:08 pm, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 6/1/2020 5:47 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
>>   Ten-Tec Tuner,
>
> This might be it, Peter. ! I've used (and loved) the Ten Tec 229 and
> 238 tuners, but some of their fixed capacitors are under-rated for 
> power. This is fairly well known among Ten Tec users, so I read about 
> it somewhere and replaced those in my tuners with caps having higher 
> power ratings.
>
> There's another design flaw -- their antenna selection switch fails to 
> to provide a return for RF current, using the chassis instead. This 
> adds inductance in series with the signal path, which increasingly 
> degrades SWR and crosstalk with increasing frequency. Palstar makes 
> the same mistake in tuners I saw at Dayton 8-10 years ago. When I 
> pointed it out to a guy in their booth who claimed to be its designer, 
> he told me I was crazy!
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
It's the 6 element LFA on a 6.8 meter boom. The balun is their 50 MHz ferrite 
core balun. 

I want to get the Ten-Tec tuner out of the equation forthwith but unless I can 
solve the fan noise problems it's a non-starter. My XYL is working from home in 
the same home-office that my shack is located in, about 6 feet away from my 
operating desk. The fan noise drives *me* crazy but she won't tolerate it being 
on all day when I'm just monitoring six. I work enough stuff on CW on HF for it 
to remain the primary concern, so I can't really put that on ANT-2, which I did 
try.

Hopefully going through the main antenna switch will help--I'll find out 
tomorrow. 

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Jack Brindle  
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 9:29 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Elecraft Mailer 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

Is it the 3 element 6m LFA? That is an interesting antenna. Which of the baluns 
did you get? They show three - two for 50 - 70 MHz, and a third for HF and 6m. 
G0KSC has some interesting designed - I will be waiting to hear your results 
with this one.

I’ll go through your details here and see what I might come up with. In the 
mean time I will be interested in the results of your tests tomorrow. Getting 
info about the TenTec ATU/switch may be difficult, but it wouldn’t surprise me 
if that is the source. I am sure somewhere in here you will find the problem.

I usually take these problem-solving discussion off-line, but let’s leave this 
one here because of the already wide interest.

73 and have a great evening!
Jack, W6FB



> On Jun 1, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the reply, Jack. 
> 
> Here's a FULL summary of what is in the line at this moment from the jack on 
> up.
> 
> PL-259 (soldered, Amphenol 83-1SP as all are) to about 2 feet of RG-213 
> feeding into a Ten-Tec Tuner, which is being used only as an antenna switch 
> and is in bypass. This is needed because the power supply fan noise on the 
> KPA-1500 is just so overwhelming that I can only power it on when needed. I 
> am primarily an HF operator, so ANT-1 is reserved for my HF stack. If I put 
> the 6m antenna on ANT-2, I would need to keep the amp running. So everything 
> goes out on ANT-1, through the TT-238. From there, one feedline goes to the 
> HF stack and the other to the 6m output. It gets SLIGHTLY better if I go 
> directly from the KPA-1500 to the input box, as follows but I still 
> experience faults.
> 
> From there, a PL-259, and 7 or 8 feet of RG-213. Another PL-259, an Amphenol 
> barrel connector in the input box, PL259, then approximately 65 or 70 feet of 
> Commscope-branded LMR-400. PL-259 from that is connected to an Amphenol 
> SO-239 female-to-N-Male, the choke balun, then the driven loop element to the 
> antenna.
> 
> As of Tuesday morning this will change as follows. KPA-1500 ANT-1 out, PL-259 
> and about 40' of Davis BuryFlex out to the remote antenna switch at the base 
> of the HF stack. From there, about 25 more feet of BuryFlex, a barrel 
> connector then the LMR-400 up to the 6m antenna. This will basically just be 
> an experiment to see if there's any improvement; I'll be bypassing both the 
> old Ten-Tec tuner/switch and the inlet box, and routing via the HF signal 
> path and automatic antenna switch. Adding 65' of BuryFlex to the path strikes 
> me as adding measurable and fairly significant loss to an otherwise really 
> good, quiet antenna system, but if it lets me operate without having to worry 
> about hard faults all the time then I'll take that as a tradeoff.
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jack Brindle 
> Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:09 PM
> To: Peter Dougherty 
> Cc: Bob McGraw K4TAX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline
> 
> Lets take another try at this. There still isn’t enough information in your 
> emails to really determine what might be going on. From the amplifier’s 
> viewpoint, *everything* from the antenna jack on the back of the amplifier is 
> part of the antenna system. So far we know it consists of some section of 
> RG213, another of LM400, a balun of some sort, and an antenna. There are 
> undoubtedly some adapters and couplers in between, and perhaps a few other 
> things. Knowing exactly what these are is critical in making any suggestions.
> 
> Every few months since we released the KPA500 we have seen emails from folks 
> who are certain that the amplifier is causing a problem. We all build our 
> stations for low power, then decide that adding an amplifier is needed, so we 
> buy one. We then are faced with issues driving a lot more power into the 
> antenna system. These are caused by deficiencies in that system, which was 
> sized for much lower power, and almost always will contain at l

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
Thanks for the reply, Jack. 

Here's a FULL summary of what is in the line at this moment from the jack on up.

PL-259 (soldered, Amphenol 83-1SP as all are) to about 2 feet of RG-213 feeding 
into a Ten-Tec Tuner, which is being used only as an antenna switch and is in 
bypass. This is needed because the power supply fan noise on the KPA-1500 is 
just so overwhelming that I can only power it on when needed. I am primarily an 
HF operator, so ANT-1 is reserved for my HF stack. If I put the 6m antenna on 
ANT-2, I would need to keep the amp running. So everything goes out on ANT-1, 
through the TT-238. From there, one feedline goes to the HF stack and the other 
to the 6m output. It gets SLIGHTLY better if I go directly from the KPA-1500 to 
the input box, as follows but I still experience faults.

From there, a PL-259, and 7 or 8 feet of RG-213. Another PL-259, an Amphenol 
barrel connector in the input box, PL259, then approximately 65 or 70 feet of 
Commscope-branded LMR-400. PL-259 from that is connected to an Amphenol SO-239 
female-to-N-Male, the choke balun, then the driven loop element to the antenna.

As of Tuesday morning this will change as follows. KPA-1500 ANT-1 out, PL-259 
and about 40' of Davis BuryFlex out to the remote antenna switch at the base of 
the HF stack. From there, about 25 more feet of BuryFlex, a barrel connector 
then the LMR-400 up to the 6m antenna. This will basically just be an 
experiment to see if there's any improvement; I'll be bypassing both the old 
Ten-Tec tuner/switch and the inlet box, and routing via the HF signal path and 
automatic antenna switch. Adding 65' of BuryFlex to the path strikes me as 
adding measurable and fairly significant loss to an otherwise really good, 
quiet antenna system, but if it lets me operate without having to worry about 
hard faults all the time then I'll take that as a tradeoff.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Jack Brindle  
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 6:09 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Bob McGraw K4TAX ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

Lets take another try at this. There still isn’t enough information in your 
emails to really determine what might be going on. From the amplifier’s 
viewpoint, *everything* from the antenna jack on the back of the amplifier is 
part of the antenna system. So far we know it consists of some section of 
RG213, another of LM400, a balun of some sort, and an antenna. There are 
undoubtedly some adapters and couplers in between, and perhaps a few other 
things. Knowing exactly what these are is critical in making any suggestions.

Every few months since we released the KPA500 we have seen emails from folks 
who are certain that the amplifier is causing a problem. We all build our 
stations for low power, then decide that adding an amplifier is needed, so we 
buy one. We then are faced with issues driving a lot more power into the 
antenna system. These are caused by deficiencies in that system, which was 
sized for much lower power, and almost always will contain at least one 
component that cannot handle the power. The last part of the KPA500 before 
power goes out is the directional coupler (note: it is after the low pass 
filters), the KPA1500 has its ATU after those components. With the KPA1500 ATU 
in bypass, the directional coupler becomes the last component. This is 
important because the directional coupler will see any problem in the antenna 
system, and report it. No amplifier component is in the way to modify things, 
we get a true picture of what follows the amplifier. So, when something 
glitches in the antenna system (usually an arc in a coupler, or an overheated 
toroid in a balun or matching unit), the directional coupler picks it up and 
moves to protect the amplifier.

With this in mind, place the KPA1500 ATU into bypass and perform the test. When 
you see the fault occur, you then need to look at the entire antenna system, 
starting at the antenna jack on the back of the KPA1500. All of the components 
are suspect, even a new part (balun, antenna, etc), which may have been 
affected by high power right after installation. Be sure to looks at the RG213, 
and at the coupler to the LM400. You have made reference to shack feed-through, 
what is that, and does it use components that might have issues?

As in past cases, find the problem in the overall antenna system, and the 
KPA1500 will be much happier, as will you.

So, before we can help you, we need to know the details of the system.

73!
Jack, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering


> On Jun 1, 2020, at 2:25 PM, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Your point is valid, however the underlying fact in my situation is that the 
> new antenna with the new 1:1 current balun (i.e. feedline choke) is 
> presenting **identically** to my old antenna that didn't have a balun. 
> Neither better nor worse.
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
Your point is valid, however the underlying fact in my situation is that the 
new antenna with the new 1:1 current balun (i.e. feedline choke) is presenting 
**identically** to my old antenna that didn't have a balun. Neither better nor 
worse.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Bob McGraw K4TAX
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 4:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

Based on my experience, balun power ratings are for MATCHED conditions. It is 
rare that hams use a balun in a matched condition.Thus a 1:1 balun should 
see 50 ohms on the input and 50 ohms on the output, while a
4:1 balun should see 200 ohms on the output and 50 ohms on the input. In the 
case of a resonant folded dipole, a 4:1 balun is typically operating in a 
nearly matched condition.All others combinations are unknown and random.

I run about 500 watts on all bands.  My baluns are rated at 5KW!   It takes 3 
or 4 big hunkin' pieces of ferrite to attain this power level. My 6 meter balun 
is a 1/2 wavelength electrically of RG-213.  No ferrite!

Buy or build a balun of your choice.  Using an IR temperature gun, measure the 
ambient temperature of the core.  Run about 1/2 rated power carrier for 30 to 
60 seconds.  Measure the temperature again.   If it is warm to hot, this is RF 
producing heat.   And likely continuing will produce core failure.   This is 
not a good balun for your application.

One of my baluns work between the output of my KAT500 and the balanced feed 
line connected to the center of a 256 ft wire.  That antenna works 160M - 6M 
with zero issues.   Now, I do run a hybrid balun being a 4:1 Guanella balun as 
a transformer, and it is fed with a 1:1 balun for common mode rejection.

Most single core, i.e. 2 or 3 cores stacked with 2 to 4 windings are not at all 
a proper balun design   A Guanella balun will have 2 cores with 2 windings and 
then another 2 separate cores with another 2 windings. These are then wired to 
produce a 4:1 balun with good common mode rejection.Most "factory" 4:1 
baluns are poorly designed and built junk.

See https://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/ for further references.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/1/2020 8:45 AM, Alan - G4GNX wrote:
> I have a similar issue with ferrite 'balun' heating, although mostly 
> tested on 40 metres. I'm using an OSCFD (Windom) which has a main 4:1 
> balun at the feed point, but also has a sleeve 'balun' consisting of 8 
> ferrites wrapped in a plastic sleeve, about 3 feet from the feed 
> point. If I run the K3S at 100W, via the KPA500 in standby, then 
> through the KAT500 tuner, I see no problems.
>
> On increasing the power to 200W by using the KPA500 in Operate and 
> about 10W drive from the K3S, during a SSB 'over' the temperature of 
> the KPA500 rises and after a few minutes, the SWR readings on the
> KPA500 and KAT500 start to rise. One of the Elecraft guys actually 
> very kindly went through my fault log and came to the conclusion that 
> the fault is with the antenna/feeder and I agree with him. What is 
> strange is that if I leave a solid carrier running at 200W, I can't 
> easily reproduce the issue and I wonder if its something being 
> affected by peak excursions with SSB?
>
> When things do start to go wrong, I can usually perform a manual tune 
> with the KAT500 and the fault will then not (mostly) be apparent.
>
> Anyway, I'm in the process of replacing the entire feeder with 
> Westflex 103 and much bigger ferrites. I will also replace the main 
> balun which is a 400W device for a 1KW device, as I think that running 
> the UK max of 400W may be pushing the spec of a 400W balun. Also, the 
> balun itself or connections to it may be faulty.
>
> The point now is that I have discovered some damage to the outer 
> covering of the sleeve 'balun' which may be the result of ferrites 
> overheating or may be the cause of movement of the ferrites thus 
> causing instability. Either way, heftier devices seem to be the order 
> of the day.
>
> Although the KPA500 temperature rise is somewhat expected, I feel it's 
> a bit higher over a short period than I would like and may be due to 
> reflected power.
>
> 73,
>
> Alan. G4GNX
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "David Olean" 
> To: "Peter Dougherty" 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 01/06/2020 13:25:18
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; 
> SWR issues)
>
>> Hello Peter
>>
>> I suspect RFI as well. I do not have a KPA1500, so my advice is not 
>> worth much, but the fact that the fault only occurs when a signal is 
>> being radiated sends me a red flag.  I had a similar problem here 
>> with my SPE amplifier power output. I was measuring it on an LP-

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
The balun (1:1 current choke here) is a red herring. 

If you follow this thread all the way back, you'll see that the previous
antenna was not balun fed, and it used a length of 75 ohm cable and stubs to
match. And in this case the balun is made by InnovAntennas, specifically for
this antenna (also of their design in the UK). If changing any one or two
components had made a significant difference I would have noted it. 

First was the antenna change. When that failed to show a marked difference
then I replaced the feedline. Again, no change whatsoever. It's behaving the
same today as it has since I first got on 6m with high power. So either the
amp has an issue or it's something incredibly esoteric that will take a
miracle to find and fix.

I have tried going through an antenna switch and switching via the KPA-1500.
No difference. All coax connectors are genuine Amphenol 83-SP1 and assembled
correctly. New LMR-400 coax, purchased last year and stored inside over the
winter, and new(ish) RG-213 patch cable inside the house. I don't ever reuse
connectors or outdoor coax. Everything I'm seeing is pointing to the fault
being inside the KPA-1500 at this point.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Adrian
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 10:13 AM
To: Alan - G4GNX ; Elecraft Reflector

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

If you use a decent combination balun such as ;
https://www.balundesigns.com/model-4116-4-1-hybrid-balun-1-5-54mhz-3kw/
if you have any metal structure in range of the field, or

https://www.balundesigns.com/model-4115ocf-4-1-for-ocf-dipoles-1-5-54-mhz-5k
w/
for a total current 4:1 balun. These are very robust at high power, and no
other feedpoint RF common mode choke is required.

I ran a K3 , amp and ocf dipole like this, with above balun earlier this
decade with great success, had top 4a4a dxpedition total band vk points with
this one antenna. Also the windom and ocf are different animals.

The true windom uses the vertical section of its feedline as part of the
antenna, such that any ocf dipole with a feedpoint common mode choke cannot
be referred to as a 'windom'

Adrian Fewster


On 1/6/20 11:45 pm, Alan - G4GNX wrote:
> I have a similar issue with ferrite 'balun' heating, although mostly 
> tested on 40 metres. I'm using an OSCFD (Windom) which has a main 4:1 
> balun at the feed point, but also has a sleeve 'balun' consisting of 8 
> ferrites wrapped in a plastic sleeve, about 3 feet from the feed 
> point. If I run the K3S at 100W, via the KPA500 in standby, then 
> through the KAT500 tuner, I see no problems.
>
> On increasing the power to 200W by using the KPA500 in Operate and 
> about 10W drive from the K3S, during a SSB 'over' the temperature of 
> the KPA500 rises and after a few minutes, the SWR readings on the
> KPA500 and KAT500 start to rise. One of the Elecraft guys actually 
> very kindly went through my fault log and came to the conclusion that 
> the fault is with the antenna/feeder and I agree with him. What is 
> strange is that if I leave a solid carrier running at 200W, I can't 
> easily reproduce the issue and I wonder if its something being 
> affected by peak excursions with SSB?
>
> When things do start to go wrong, I can usually perform a manual tune 
> with the KAT500 and the fault will then not (mostly) be apparent.
>
> Anyway, I'm in the process of replacing the entire feeder with 
> Westflex 103 and much bigger ferrites. I will also replace the main 
> balun which is a 400W device for a 1KW device, as I think that running 
> the UK max of 400W may be pushing the spec of a 400W balun. Also, the 
> balun itself or connections to it may be faulty.
>
> The point now is that I have discovered some damage to the outer 
> covering of the sleeve 'balun' which may be the result of ferrites 
> overheating or may be the cause of movement of the ferrites thus 
> causing instability. Either way, heftier devices seem to be the order 
> of the day.
>
> Although the KPA500 temperature rise is somewhat expected, I feel it's 
> a bit higher over a short period than I would like and may be due to 
> reflected power.
>
> 73,
>
> Alan. G4GNX
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
I have never driven the amp with 90 Watts. Ever. The 90W figure is what comes 
out of the K3s *after* the amp has tripped out. With the amp in 'operate' I 
feed it typically 25-35 Watts.

Here are the error codes, as requested (truncated for length--there are MANY 
more): 
441 20-06-01T01:02:22 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 13W fwd 1064W refl 198W 
swr 2.5 23A 32C adc 280 var 198
440 20-05-31T23:45:57 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50008 inp 22W fwd 1356W refl 199W 
swr 2.2 44A 45C adc 281 var 199
439 20-05-31T23:43:46 OVR 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 23W fwd 1210W refl 172W 
swr 2.2 39A 31C adc 257 var 172
438 20-05-31T23:43:39 OVR 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 23W fwd 1204W refl 172W 
swr 2.2 39A 28C adc 257 var 172
437 20-05-31T23:43:13 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 23W fwd 1298W refl 202W 
swr 2.3 44A 27C adc 284 var 202
435 20-05-31T02:39:03 OVR 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 14W fwd 1107W refl 178W 
swr 2.3 23A 47C adc 262 var 178
434 20-05-31T02:34:03 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 15W fwd 1152W refl 198W 
swr 2.4 28A 33C adc 280 var 198
433 20-05-31T02:25:03 OVR 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 15W fwd 1130W refl 187W 
swr 2.3 24A 43C adc 270 var 187
432 20-05-31T02:23:03 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 18W fwd 1165W refl 199W 
swr 2.4 40A 43C adc 281 var 199
431 20-05-31T02:21:33 FLT 90 - PWR REFL  freq 50304 inp 20W fwd 1189W refl 201W 
swr 2.3 46A 48C adc 283 var 201
 

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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
The new full-length LMR-400 cable is about 3 feet longer than the old 2-section 
coax I had before (old = 3/8” hardline and about 8 feet of RG-213). The entry 
point is grounded to rod immediately below it, connected by 1.5” braid. 

 

- pjd

 

From: Mark Goldberg  
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 12:45 AM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Adrian ; Paul Baldock ; Elecraft 
Mailing List 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR 
issues)

 

I haven't seen a discussion of your grounding system or feedline length. 6M can 
be picky.  What does your ground system look like? Do you have any common mode 
chokes on the feedline? Have you tried adding or subtracting 2-3 feet from the 
feedline? If it is exactly a multiple of 1/2 wave or 1/4 wave changing the 
feedline length will move it away from that. Have you tried adding a 
counterpoise in the shack? That's not the ultimate solution but if it improves 
things it will tell you something. Can you point an IR thermometer at tuner / 
balun inductors to see if they are getting hot? Just throwing out ideas.

 

73,

 

Mark

W7MLG

 

 

On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 9:08 PM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

New coax and old coax behaved identically. HOWEVER, running into about 80 feet 
of old RG-213 and into the Cantenna dummy load and it doesn't fault. This is 
the only condition on 6m where there is no fault. Brand new coax, old coax, 
brand new antenna, old antenna, with balun, without balun. Always faults except 
when feeding the pure resistive dummy load. If there's any reactance it trips 
or gives false SWR info.

I would also add, why would a 2:1 SWR trip out the amp at 25 or 30 Watts of 
drive? On the regular HF bands I can use the internal tuner to take out a 2.5 
or 3:1 SWR and it still sends 1400-1450 Watts up the pipe..

 - pjd
  

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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-06-01 Thread Peter Dougherty
That's worth a shot. I have a ~7 foot RG-213 patch cable from the back of the 
amp to the entry box. I don't have any more LMR-400 so I can't use that, but I 
do have quite a bit of 213 and will make a new patch cable. That's the only bit 
of the old system that's still remaining. 
 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Vic Rosenthal  
Sent: Monday, June 1, 2020 12:18 AM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR 
issues)

Are you using the same output connector on the KPA1500 for the dummy load and 
the antenna? 
Perhaps the problem is in one of the SO239s or in the KPA’s switching circuit?

Victor 4X6GP 

> On 1 Jun 2020, at 4:30, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Many here suggested that it was most likely a feedline issue, and I 
> figured this was indeed a distinct possibility.
> 
> So this afternoon I replaced the feedline. I now have about 80 feet of 
> brand new LMR-400, new 83-SP1 connectors (and an Amphenol adaptor at 
> the balun since I don't have any type-N connectors here). The AA-230 
> ZOOM analyzer shows about 1.2:1 at 50.313, with resonance just below 
> the band. I'll fix that tomorrow, but 1.2 or 1.3:1 should be nothing to the 
> KPA.
> 
> The TDR screen looks very clean, just a tiny bump where the feedline 
> goes through the (new) bulkhead connector to get into the house. See:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/izcwvece7nt5f42/2020-05-31%2019.32.44.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
> The SWR chart between 50.000 and 50.500:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2xh4l1lihy2ujr/2020-05-31%2021.23.29.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
> Again, I know the antenna is resonant a bit low, but this should NOT 
> be a factor. So here's what's now going on.
> 
> 1) Into a Cantenna dummy load, with 25W of drive from the M3s, the 
> KPA-1500 is delivering 1075W and showing 1.4:1. No problem delivering 
> power and no faults.
> 
> 2) With input power increased, 35W of K3s drive gives 1375W at 1.5 
> into the Cantenna. Again, no problem delivering power to the purely resistive 
> load.
> Why a 1.5:1, I don't know, but fine, whatever. I can TX for 15-20 
> second periods without issue.
> 
> 3) When I switch over to the live antenna, with25 Watts of drive from 
> the K3s into the actual antenna and the amp faults out instantly in 
> bypass. When the amplifier is in bypass and the tuner is in bypass, 
> and when the K3s is delivering about 90W in FT8 mode, the front panel 
> on the KPA-1500 says the SWR is 1.9:1. When I press the TUNE button on 
> the radio, it's showing an SWR of 1.4:1.
> 
> 4) Amp in bypass, tuner inline, press TUNE button on the K3s and the 
> front panel of the KPA-1500 is showing a perfect 1.0:1 match. It 
> SHOULD work fine like this, right?
> 
> 5) Pressing ONLY the OPER/STBY button to put the amp in operate (KPA 
> tuner in and untouched since step 4), the amp SOMETIMES delivers 
> power, sometimes faults out, shows an SWR of 1.7:1. Pressing the 
> OPER/STBY button again to use only exciter power, and touching NOTHING 
> ELSE, it's back to 1.1:1 with 90W of K3s drive.
> 
> 6) There is basically no rhyme or reason why this is happening and 
> it's
> *somewhat* repeatable. The incredibly frustrating part is if I see a 
> needed station come up, I'll flick the amp's tuner in line and it says it's 
> tuned.
> Once WSJT-X keys the radio, 90 out of 100 times the amp will 
> hard-fault. If it doesn't fault on the first transmission, it 
> absolutely WILL on the second transmission.
> 
> So I'm now at a complete loss to understand what's going on here. Amp 
> is fine into a resistive load. Brand-new antenna, brand new LMR-400 
> feedline, brand new connectors, the KPA-1500 is faulting out the same 
> as it did on the
> 10+ year old 6M5 with a patchwork of feedlines. I can't see how this 
> 10+ is
> anything but a problem in the KPA-1500 (S/N 0398).
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>  On Behalf Of Jim Brown
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 8:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues
> 
>> On 5/31/2020 9:54 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> Have you vetted your feedline at 1500w? Many times something might be 
>> good at low power and fail at 1500.
> 
> This is good advice. Guys who do lots of portable setup say to always 
> check the coax first, which mostly means check for a connector that's 
> bad or badly installed.
> 
> In general, if it doesn't say Amphenol or isn't stamped with a MIL 
> spec number, it's very likely to be poor quality. This includes 
> barrels, adapters, etc.  Also make sure that every connector is" wrench 
> tight."
> 
> The adv

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-05-31 Thread Peter Dougherty
New coax and old coax behaved identically. HOWEVER, running into about 80 feet 
of old RG-213 and into the Cantenna dummy load and it doesn't fault. This is 
the only condition on 6m where there is no fault. Brand new coax, old coax, 
brand new antenna, old antenna, with balun, without balun. Always faults except 
when feeding the pure resistive dummy load. If there's any reactance it trips 
or gives false SWR info.

I would also add, why would a 2:1 SWR trip out the amp at 25 or 30 Watts of 
drive? On the regular HF bands I can use the internal tuner to take out a 2.5 
or 3:1 SWR and it still sends 1400-1450 Watts up the pipe..

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Adrian  
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 11:05 PM
To: Peter Dougherty ; 'Paul Baldock' ; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR 
issues)

To remove any doubt, a 1.5kw or close dummy load at the end of the coax to 
replace antenna, would confirm the amp issue.

On 1/6/20 12:27 pm, Peter Dougherty wrote:
> Paul, please re-read what I wrote. The 90W figure is with the amp IN 
> STANDBY! I wouldn't dream of putting more than about 35W into the KPA-1500.
> I generally like to run about 1200W on 6m, but even if I turn my K3s 
> drive down to 20 Watts, it will STILL hard-fault regularly. NO AMOUNT 
> OF DRIVE from the K3s will stop these problems. If the amp is set to 
> deliver power it's going to fault on 6m, regardless of what the ATU is 
> set for (bypass or inline), and the KPA will miss-read the SWR of the antenna 
> system.
>
> The resistance figure is 50.8 Ohms, and the reactance is -11 according 
> to the AA-230. The only difference between "works reliably" and 
> "faults out all the time" is one is a resistive-only load, the other 
> has a reactive component.
>
>   - pjd
>
> -
>

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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-05-31 Thread Peter Dougherty
Paul, please re-read what I wrote. The 90W figure is with the amp IN
STANDBY! I wouldn't dream of putting more than about 35W into the KPA-1500.
I generally like to run about 1200W on 6m, but even if I turn my K3s drive
down to 20 Watts, it will STILL hard-fault regularly. NO AMOUNT OF DRIVE
from the K3s will stop these problems. If the amp is set to deliver power
it's going to fault on 6m, regardless of what the ATU is set for (bypass or
inline), and the KPA will miss-read the SWR of the antenna system. 

The resistance figure is 50.8 Ohms, and the reactance is -11 according to
the AA-230. The only difference between "works reliably" and "faults out all
the time" is one is a resistive-only load, the other has a reactive
component.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Paul Baldock  
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 10:06 PM
To: Peter Dougherty ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR
issues)

A few things I observe on my KPA 1500:

On 6m the KPA1500 reads 1.3/1.4:1 into a perfect load.  FYI it reads
1.2:1 in to a perfect load on 10M also, but 1.0:1 on all other
bands.Elecraft have various excuses for this.

1500W its really pushing it on 6M. Way to much compression. I run mine at
1100W out with 38W drive. as you state 90W, that's way too much drive.

As the amp warms up the output drops (on all bands), but I never exceed 38W
drive on 6M.

On FT8 I drive it to 500W out only, and the amp stays reasonably cool.

On 6M I bypass the tuner as the real antenna SWR is less than 1.5:1, and I
ignore what the KP1500 says it is.

Try the amp the way I use it and see how it goes.

Good luck

- Paul KW7Y



At 06:29 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:
>Many here suggested that it was most likely a feedline issue, and I 
>figured this was indeed a distinct possibility.
>
>So this afternoon I replaced the feedline. I now have about 80 feet of 
>brand new LMR-400, new 83-SP1 connectors (and an Amphenol adaptor at 
>the balun since I don't have any type-N connectors here). The AA-230 
>ZOOM analyzer shows about 1.2:1 at 50.313, with resonance just below 
>the band. I'll fix that tomorrow, but 1.2 or 1.3:1 should be nothing to the
KPA.
>
>The TDR screen looks very clean, just a tiny bump where the feedline 
>goes through the (new) bulkhead connector to get into the house. See:
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/izcwvece7nt5f42/2020-05-31%2019.32.44.jpg?dl=
>0
>
>The SWR chart between 50.000 and 50.500:
>https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2xh4l1lihy2ujr/2020-05-31%2021.23.29.jpg?dl=
>0
>
>Again, I know the antenna is resonant a bit low, but this should NOT be 
>a factor. So here's what's now going on.
>
>1) Into a Cantenna dummy load, with 25W of drive from the M3s, the 
>KPA-1500 is delivering 1075W and showing 1.4:1. No problem delivering 
>power and no faults.
>
>2) With input power increased, 35W of K3s drive gives 1375W at 1.5 into 
>the Cantenna. Again, no problem delivering power to the purely resistive
load.
>Why a 1.5:1, I don't know, but fine, whatever. I can TX for 15-20 
>second periods without issue.
>
>3) When I switch over to the live antenna, with25 Watts of drive from 
>the K3s into the actual antenna and the amp faults out instantly in 
>bypass. When the amplifier is in bypass and the tuner is in bypass, and 
>when the K3s is delivering about 90W in FT8 mode, the front panel on 
>the KPA-1500 says the SWR is 1.9:1. When I press the TUNE button on the 
>radio, it's showing an SWR of 1.4:1.
>
>4) Amp in bypass, tuner inline, press TUNE button on the K3s and the 
>front panel of the KPA-1500 is showing a perfect 1.0:1 match. It SHOULD 
>work fine like this, right?
>
>5) Pressing ONLY the OPER/STBY button to put the amp in operate (KPA 
>tuner in and untouched since step 4), the amp SOMETIMES delivers power, 
>sometimes faults out, shows an SWR of 1.7:1. Pressing the OPER/STBY 
>button again to use only exciter power, and touching NOTHING ELSE, it's 
>back to 1.1:1 with 90W of K3s drive.
>
>6) There is basically no rhyme or reason why this is happening and it's
>*somewhat* repeatable. The incredibly frustrating part is if I see a 
>needed station come up, I'll flick the amp's tuner in line and it says it's
tuned.
>Once WSJT-X keys the radio, 90 out of 100 times the amp will 
>hard-fault. If it doesn't fault on the first transmission, it 
>absolutely WILL on the second transmission.
>
>So I'm now at a complete loss to understand what's going on here. Amp 
>is fine into a resistive load. Brand-new antenna, brand new LMR-400 
>feedline, brand new connectors, the KPA-1500 is faulting out the same 
>as it did on the
>10+ year old 6M5 with a patchwork of feedlines. I can't see how this is
>anything but a problem in the KPA-1500 (S/N 0398).
>
>  - pjd
>
>-Original Message--

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-05-31 Thread Peter Dougherty
This is a brand-new balun from InnovAntennas, made specifically for this
antenna, received this past Thursday. 

Note that exactly what I described was also occurring on my old setup, on an
antenna without a balun feed. 

Basically everything from the output SO-239 on the KPA-1500 on up to the top
of the tower has been replaced with brand new everything. The fault
conditions are identical to what was happening beforehand.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: Jack Brindle  
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 9:38 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR
issues)

Balun? Is it new? What kind?
You have pretty much eliminated the KPA1500 with this test. This sounds like
a balun toroid heating up and causing problems. 
You will see perfect conditions at low power, and the AA230 will also show
things in great shape. They are not stressing the system. But 1500 watts
sure will.
Talk a better look at the antenna system. And the balun. Open it up if
possible.

And, again describe, in detail the antenna system. There is something there
to be found.

73!
Jack, W6FB


> On May 31, 2020, at 6:29 PM, Peter Dougherty  wrote:
> 
> Many here suggested that it was most likely a feedline issue, and I 
> figured this was indeed a distinct possibility.
> 
> So this afternoon I replaced the feedline. I now have about 80 feet of 
> brand new LMR-400, new 83-SP1 connectors (and an Amphenol adaptor at 
> the balun since I don't have any type-N connectors here). The AA-230 
> ZOOM analyzer shows about 1.2:1 at 50.313, with resonance just below 
> the band. I'll fix that tomorrow, but 1.2 or 1.3:1 should be nothing to
the KPA.
> 
> The TDR screen looks very clean, just a tiny bump where the feedline 
> goes through the (new) bulkhead connector to get into the house. See:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/izcwvece7nt5f42/2020-05-31%2019.32.44.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
> The SWR chart between 50.000 and 50.500:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2xh4l1lihy2ujr/2020-05-31%2021.23.29.jpg?dl
> =0
> 
> Again, I know the antenna is resonant a bit low, but this should NOT 
> be a factor. So here's what's now going on.
> 
> 1) Into a Cantenna dummy load, with 25W of drive from the M3s, the 
> KPA-1500 is delivering 1075W and showing 1.4:1. No problem delivering 
> power and no faults.
> 
> 2) With input power increased, 35W of K3s drive gives 1375W at 1.5 
> into the Cantenna. Again, no problem delivering power to the purely
resistive load.
> Why a 1.5:1, I don't know, but fine, whatever. I can TX for 15-20 
> second periods without issue.
> 
> 3) When I switch over to the live antenna, with25 Watts of drive from 
> the K3s into the actual antenna and the amp faults out instantly in 
> bypass. When the amplifier is in bypass and the tuner is in bypass, 
> and when the K3s is delivering about 90W in FT8 mode, the front panel 
> on the KPA-1500 says the SWR is 1.9:1. When I press the TUNE button on 
> the radio, it's showing an SWR of 1.4:1.
> 
> 4) Amp in bypass, tuner inline, press TUNE button on the K3s and the 
> front panel of the KPA-1500 is showing a perfect 1.0:1 match. It 
> SHOULD work fine like this, right?
> 
> 5) Pressing ONLY the OPER/STBY button to put the amp in operate (KPA 
> tuner in and untouched since step 4), the amp SOMETIMES delivers 
> power, sometimes faults out, shows an SWR of 1.7:1. Pressing the 
> OPER/STBY button again to use only exciter power, and touching NOTHING 
> ELSE, it's back to 1.1:1 with 90W of K3s drive.
> 
> 6) There is basically no rhyme or reason why this is happening and 
> it's
> *somewhat* repeatable. The incredibly frustrating part is if I see a 
> needed station come up, I'll flick the amp's tuner in line and it says
it's tuned.
> Once WSJT-X keys the radio, 90 out of 100 times the amp will 
> hard-fault. If it doesn't fault on the first transmission, it 
> absolutely WILL on the second transmission.
> 
> So I'm now at a complete loss to understand what's going on here. Amp 
> is fine into a resistive load. Brand-new antenna, brand new LMR-400 
> feedline, brand new connectors, the KPA-1500 is faulting out the same 
> as it did on the
> 10+ year old 6M5 with a patchwork of feedlines. I can't see how this 
> 10+ is
> anything but a problem in the KPA-1500 (S/N 0398).
> 
> - pjd
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>  On Behalf Of Jim Brown
> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 8:22 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues
> 
> On 5/31/2020 9:54 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
>> Have you vetted your feedline at 1500w? Many times something might be 
>> good at low power and fail at 1500.
> 
> This is good advice. Guys who d

Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues)

2020-05-31 Thread Peter Dougherty
Many here suggested that it was most likely a feedline issue, and I figured
this was indeed a distinct possibility. 

So this afternoon I replaced the feedline. I now have about 80 feet of brand
new LMR-400, new 83-SP1 connectors (and an Amphenol adaptor at the balun
since I don't have any type-N connectors here). The AA-230 ZOOM analyzer
shows about 1.2:1 at 50.313, with resonance just below the band. I'll fix
that tomorrow, but 1.2 or 1.3:1 should be nothing to the KPA. 

The TDR screen looks very clean, just a tiny bump where the feedline goes
through the (new) bulkhead connector to get into the house. See:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/izcwvece7nt5f42/2020-05-31%2019.32.44.jpg?dl=0

The SWR chart between 50.000 and 50.500:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y2xh4l1lihy2ujr/2020-05-31%2021.23.29.jpg?dl=0

Again, I know the antenna is resonant a bit low, but this should NOT be a
factor. So here's what's now going on.

1) Into a Cantenna dummy load, with 25W of drive from the M3s, the KPA-1500
is delivering 1075W and showing 1.4:1. No problem delivering power and no
faults.

2) With input power increased, 35W of K3s drive gives 1375W at 1.5 into the
Cantenna. Again, no problem delivering power to the purely resistive load.
Why a 1.5:1, I don't know, but fine, whatever. I can TX for 15-20 second
periods without issue.

3) When I switch over to the live antenna, with25 Watts of drive from the
K3s into the actual antenna and the amp faults out instantly in bypass. When
the amplifier is in bypass and the tuner is in bypass, and when the K3s is
delivering about 90W in FT8 mode, the front panel on the KPA-1500 says the
SWR is 1.9:1. When I press the TUNE button on the radio, it's showing an SWR
of 1.4:1. 

4) Amp in bypass, tuner inline, press TUNE button on the K3s and the front
panel of the KPA-1500 is showing a perfect 1.0:1 match. It SHOULD work fine
like this, right?

5) Pressing ONLY the OPER/STBY button to put the amp in operate (KPA tuner
in and untouched since step 4), the amp SOMETIMES delivers power, sometimes
faults out, shows an SWR of 1.7:1. Pressing the OPER/STBY button again to
use only exciter power, and touching NOTHING ELSE, it's back to 1.1:1 with
90W of K3s drive.

6) There is basically no rhyme or reason why this is happening and it's
*somewhat* repeatable. The incredibly frustrating part is if I see a needed
station come up, I'll flick the amp's tuner in line and it says it's tuned.
Once WSJT-X keys the radio, 90 out of 100 times the amp will hard-fault. If
it doesn't fault on the first transmission, it absolutely WILL on the second
transmission. 

So I'm now at a complete loss to understand what's going on here. Amp is
fine into a resistive load. Brand-new antenna, brand new LMR-400 feedline,
brand new connectors, the KPA-1500 is faulting out the same as it did on the
10+ year old 6M5 with a patchwork of feedlines. I can't see how this is
anything but a problem in the KPA-1500 (S/N 0398).

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2020 8:22 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues

On 5/31/2020 9:54 AM, Jim Miller wrote:
> Have you vetted your feedline at 1500w? Many times something might be 
> good at low power and fail at 1500.

This is good advice. Guys who do lots of portable setup say to always check
the coax first, which mostly means check for a connector that's bad or badly
installed.

In general, if it doesn't say Amphenol or isn't stamped with a MIL spec
number, it's very likely to be poor quality. This includes barrels,
adapters, etc.  Also make sure that every connector is" wrench tight."

The advice to run it straight to a dummy load is right on -- if you have one
big enough. :)

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; SWR issues

2020-05-31 Thread Peter Dougherty
Hi all (and sorry about the blank post-I don't know what happened there). 

 

I am experiencing a continuing and repeatable problem with my KPA-1500 on
6m. With the amp in bypass I am able to operate normally with my K3s, but
the amp's meter is showing a 1.8 to 2:1 SWR on that band, despite
measurements on an AA-230 analyzer and the SWR meter on the K3s itself
showing it virtually flat (no more than 1.2:1). 

Once the amp is placed set to operate it's still showing SWR measurements of
1.8:1 to 2.1:1 consistently when delivering power. If the tuner is bypassed
I can't run more than about 600W out before it faults. If I put the tuner in
and click it to tune, it will deliver power just fine at 1200 or 1300 Watts
for ONE FT8 transmit cycle. When it goes to transmit again it hard-faults
with too much reflected power. Using 100W straight from the K3s there is no
issue whatsoever, but *any* level of power from the KPA is liable to trip
the excess reflected power sensor on the amp.

At first I thought I had an antenna problem, but yesterday I put up a brand
new 6m LFA and it's doing the same thing. This coming week I plan to replace
the feedline with LMR-400--it's got a combination of 3/8" hardline and
RG-213 at the moment. Any thoughts on what might be going on here? Is there
a known-issue on 6m with the KPA?


-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau

 

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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 hard faulting on 6m

2020-05-30 Thread Peter Dougherty


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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day

2020-05-25 Thread Peter Wollan
Class D and E are home stations. They certainly began setting up long
before the Friday of FD weekend. They don’t get the extra hours to operate.

   Peter W0LLN


On Mon, May 25, 2020 at 9:08 AM Andy Durbin  wrote:

> The field day rules need to be reviewed and corrected, not just for
> allowed power sources.
>
> Take this for example -
>
> "3. Date and Time Period: Field Day 2020 will be held June 27-28. Field
> Day is ALWAYS the fourth full weekend, beginning at 1800 UTC Saturday and
> ending at 2059 UTC Sunday.
>  3.1. Class A and B (see below) stations that do not begin setting up
> until 1800 UTC on Saturday may operate the entire 27-hour Field Day period.
>  3.2. Stations who begin setting up before 1800 UTC Saturday may work only
> 24 consecutive hours, commencing when on-the-air operations begin.
>  3.3. No class A or B station may begin its set-up earlier than  UTC
> on the Friday (Thursday afternoon or evening local time) preceding the
> Field Day period. Cumulative set-up time shall not exceed a total of 24
> hours."
>
> This rule set allows a 1E station to operate for almost 27 hours.  The
> contest start and end times are defined in rule 3.0.  None of the
> subordinate rules say that a 1E station that performs all setting up after
> 1800 UTC Saturday is not allowed to operate for the full contest period.
>
> It takes me less than 1 hour to convert from mains power to running the
> entire station on a generator.  The rules, as published, allow me to
> connect and start the generator after 1800 UTC Saturday and continue
> operating until 2059 UTC Sunday.
>
> ARRL representatives have told me that 1E stations may operate only 24
> hours but the rules don't say that.
>
> 73,
> Andy, k3wyc
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

2020-05-23 Thread Peter Dougherty
Giving her anything hot pink will be met with words not fit for family 
newsgroups, and possibly the forced removal of a part or parts that’s very near 
and dear to me. Besides, the racket bugs the heck out of me, too. 

And I won’t even get into the amp noise when I’m running FT8 on 6, but that’s 
to be expected, alas.

 

- pjd

 

From: Morgan Bailey  
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

 

Head to walmart and buy a box of cheap hot pink foam ear plugs that have 30 db 
noise reduction. Or have her wear earbuds to a new ipod listen to music...sign 
her up for pandora.

 

LOL

 

Vy 73,

Morgan NJ8M

 

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 9:35 AM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? 

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

2020-05-23 Thread Peter Dougherty
Giving her anything hot pink will be met with words not fit for family 
newsgroups, and possibly the forced removal of a part or parts that’s very near 
and dear to me. Besides, the racket bugs the heck out of me, too. 

And I won’t even get into the amp noise when I’m running FT8 on 6, but that’s 
to be expected, alas.

 

- pjd

 

From: Morgan Bailey  
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 2:11 PM
To: Peter Dougherty 
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise

 

Head to walmart and buy a box of cheap hot pink foam ear plugs that have 30 db 
noise reduction. Or have her wear earbuds to a new ipod listen to music...sign 
her up for pandora.

 

LOL

 

Vy 73,

Morgan NJ8M

 

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 9:35 AM Peter Dougherty mailto:li...@w2irt.net> > wrote:

Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if
the amp is in standby mode?

I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season.
The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires
the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I
do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is
working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day,
and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? 

Please-n-thanks.

-
73 and Good DX
Peter, W2IRT



President, North Jersey DX Association

DXCC Card Checker
Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau



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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

2020-05-23 Thread Peter Dougherty
I'm experiencing something similar. I have my sub-2 output connected to bass
shakers on my sofa, and the wiring picks up an incredible amount of RF on
20. As my wife found out when she was taking a nap in the room while I was
contesting. As soon as I switched to 20 she was getting rumbled to the
pattern of CQ TEST. That was an interesting conversation, and something I
will look at this summer.

As for your low frequencies getting into your left and right main, why not
switch them to "small" in the AVR menu, and let the sub do all the work
below 80 Hz?

I have had some luck putting ferrites just before the speaker terminals in
the past. I sadly cut all my speaker cable to length so there's no room to
wind around a core, so these will need to be clamp-ons for me. I get into my
center and surrounds on 40 and 20.

Or I can tell my XYL to nap in the living room, since there's just the two
of us in the house.

 - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Nicklas Johnson
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 12:38 PM
To: elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation
transformers?

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home theater
subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required running two
speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging the subwoofer
into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn resulted in
ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential between the two
outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 low-frequency audio
isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type that produces a signal
based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the left and right speaker
channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker side
of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of folks who
have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason the
ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

   Nick

--
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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