Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread Roland via EV
   
If you are using the Nissan Leaf Battery Blocks in a vehicle that is large 
enough to 

hold the larger 24 module pack, you do not have to disassembled them.  I bought 

three of the larger Nissan Leaf Battery Blocks and just bolted them down on to 
a 

chassis plate in the bottom of the battery box.   

 

I also bought a extra Nissan Leaf Battery to add more modules to the end of the 

24 module battery battery pack.  Just attach a threaded rod to the end of 

threaded rods with rod couplers to using a steel or aluminum spacer.   

 

The advantage to buying complete battery blocks, is that you get the end plates 

and the separating steel spacers that go between each module instead of making

them.  

 

Just bolt the buss bars and BMS wire spade connectors to the terminals.  If you 

need to parallel two modules together, you then will have to unbolt the long 

thread rods and placed two modules with the two positives on one side and th 

two negatives on the other end.  The buss bars that come with the Battery 
Blocks 

are only long enough to connect two modules terminals that go from neg to pos. 

You either need a buss bar to branch across four positive at one end and four 

negative terminals at the other end,  or you can reuse the short terminal buss

bars to attach two modules together and then connect those two modules with 

another copper buss bar or use 1/2 A/C copper tubing flatten down which gets to 

to about 9/16 inch wide and the same thickness.  

 

Took me only a day to make up the extra modules and two days to install the 

battery pack. Another day to attach all the buss bars and attach the BMS wires 

terminals. 

 

You can purchase them NEW instead of use. 

 

Roland  


- Original Message - 

From: Jay Summet via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

To: Electric Vehicle Discussion Listmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 8:00 PM

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan 
Leaf



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Hash: SHA1

I was searching YouTube and found a new video where a guy disassembled
a leaf pack. (He posted it only a week ago, which is why I hadn't
found it before.).

Good info for anybody looking to do the same:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0dDHJKzX78https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0dDHJKzX78



Jay
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Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread Jay Summet via EV

  
 You can purchase them NEW instead of use.
  
 Roland  


I am aware that I can purchase blocks of cells (from Hybrid Auto Center,
and others) which may be new, or old/unused stock, or pulled from
salvage depending upon source. I chose to buy a Salvage pack for cost
savings purposes.

48 modules at $130 per cell (I'm including shipping costs in that $130
price...seems to be a reasonable way to account of volume discounts of
larger packs...) is $6240

My cost for the complete 2013 leaf was $4100  (or $4407 including all of
the tools I had to purchase to move/jack the car and drop the pack) plus
a lot of my own labor.

If you have the money, buying just the modules or 1/2 packs already
ready to go is a good time saving measure, but if your labor is free,
you can get a lot more value with a (good) Salvage pack/car.

Because I got the whole car, I was able to connect to the OBDII port and
verify that the pack health was excellent, and I know for a fact that
it's an upgraded chemistry 2013 pack with 64 Ah capacity.

I'm currently saving about $1,800 over buying the modules alone, plus
any extra money I can recoup by selling parts from the rest of the car.
(such as the  wheels/tires, entire motor/charger/inverter unit, HVAC,
J1722 port, HV contractor, 250A fuse block, BMS, airbags, headlights, etc..)

Another person I know of purchased just a used pack from a junk yard
(without the car surrounding it) for $2600-2700, which is an even better
cost savings, and gives him less stuff to have to get rid of after the
fact...

Of course, they may stand behind their product better than CoPart's
Where is / As-is policy for salvage autos :

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread via EV
Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf  
batteries?
 
How about for the Chevy Volt batteries?
 
Thanks,
 
Dave Delman
eLectricDeLorean.com
http://www.evalbum.com/1482

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[EVDL] EVent: KickGasClub.org EV Conversion Workshop $$ 9a-1p 4/4 S.Diego CA

2015-03-31 Thread brucedp5 via EV


http://www.utsandiego.com/news/2015/mar/30/car-calendar/
Show 'n Shine ... events ... around San Diego County
By Mark Maynard  March 30, 2015 ...

April 4: Kick Gas Car Club EV Conversion Workshop, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. first
Saturdays, Montgomery Field. Learn how to convert a gasoline-powered car to
electric. $75, includes lunch and T-shirt. 
Info: [ http://kickgasclub.org/ ] or email [ quevedo @cox.net ] ...
[© utsandiego.com]
...
[dated]
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/template/NamlServlet.jtp?macro=search_pagenode=413529query=KickGasClub.orgsort=date
KickGasClub.org posts on evdl




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[EVDL] EVLN: Automakers race to double the range of affordable EVs

2015-03-31 Thread brucedp5 via EV


http://www.reuters.com/article/2015/03/24/autos-batteries-idUSL2N0WQ19Z20150324
Automakers race to double the driving range of affordable electric cars
By Paul Lienert   Mar 24, 2015

DETROIT, March 24 ... (Reuters) - Global automakers are readying a new
generation of mass-market electric cars with more than double the driving
range of today's Nissan Leaf, betting that technical breakthroughs by big
battery suppliers such as LG Chem Ltd will jump-start demand and pull them
abreast of Tesla Motors Inc.

At least four major automakers - General Motors Co, Ford Motor Co, Nissan
Motor Co Ltd and Volkswagen AG - plan to race Tesla to be first to field
affordable electric vehicles that will travel up to 200 miles (322 km)
between charges.

That is more than twice as far as current lower-priced models such as the
Nissan Leaf, which starts at $29,010. The new generation of electric cars is
expected to be on the market within two to three years.

To get a Tesla Model S that delivers 265 miles (427 km) on a charge requires
buying a version that starts at $81,000 before tax incentives. Most electric
cars offered at more affordable prices can travel only about 75 to 85 miles
(121 to 137 km) on a charge - less in cold weather or when drivers have the
air conditioning on. Consumers who travel longer distances fear getting
stranded, a sales-killing concern automakers call range anxiety.

Range anxiety is one reason only about 67,700 electric vehicles were sold in
the United States last year. That was about 0.4 percent of the 16.5 million
new cars and trucks sold.

Automakers need to pump up electric vehicle demand significantly by 2018.
This is when California and eight other states will begin to require the
companies to meet much higher sales targets for so-called zero emission
vehicles - in other words, electric cars - and federal rules on reducing
fuel consumption and greenhouse gases become much stricter.

None of the four automakers contacted by Reuters for this story - Ford, GM,
Nissan and Volkswagen - wished to comment on future products or other
related matters.

BATTERY BREAKTHROUGHS
Tesla Chief Executive Officer Elon Musk said last week that 200 miles is
the minimum threshold to alleviate consumer concerns over EV range. There
is a sweet spot around 250-350 miles that's really ideal, he said.

Musk has promised a more affordable Tesla, the Model 3, which will sell for
around $35,000 and provide a driving range of 200 miles or more. That car is
slated to begin production in mid-to-late 2017.

However, GM says it plans to field a 200-mile electric car, the Chevrolet
Bolt, by late 2016.

The Bolt will use an advanced lithium-ion battery pack developed by Korea's
LG Chem, which also supplies batteries for the Chevrolet Volt hybrid. The
newer batteries are said to have much higher energy density and provide much
longer range between charges, thanks to breakthroughs in battery materials,
design and chemistry, according to a source familiar with LG Chem's
technology.

Several factors are at play that are landing at this 200-mile range for a
vehicle priced between $30,000 and $35,000, LG Chem Chief Executive
Prabhakar Patil said in an interview. We've been talking to several OEMs
(automakers) regarding where our battery technology is and where it's
going.

LG Chem also supplies standard lithium-ion batteries to the Ford Focus
Electric and may supply the longer-range batteries to a new compact EV that
Ford is tentatively planning to introduce in late 2018 or early 2019,
according to three suppliers familiar with the program.

Compared with the 2015 Focus Electric, which has a range between charges of
76 miles, the new compact electric model would have a range of at least 200
miles, the suppliers said.

Nissan and VW both have battery supply deals with LG Chem, and both are
working on longer-range EVs for 2018 and beyond.

Nissan is planning to introduce a successor to the Leaf in early 2018,
according to a source familiar with the program, and that model is expected
to offer significantly greater range than the current Leaf, the best-selling
electric car in the United States, which can go 84 miles (135 km) between
charges.

The 2015 Leaf uses batteries made by a joint venture between Nissan and
supplier NEC. It is not clear if the future model will shift to LG Chem,
although Nissan CEO Carlos Ghosn has identified LG Chem as a potential
battery supplier.

VW plans to expand its current range of electrified vehicles, including a
successor to the battery-powered e-Golf in 2018 with much longer range,
according to two sources familiar with the program. The current e-Golf uses
batteries made by Panasonic and has a range between charges of 83 miles.
(Editing by Joseph White and Matthew Lewis)
[© reuters.com]



http://www.greenoptimistic.com/electric-vehicle-batteries-cheaper-expected/
Electric Vehicle Batteries Cheaper Than Expected
Ari Luis  March 29, 2015
...

[EVDL] EVLN: ElectraGirl How Long ...

2015-03-31 Thread brucedp5 via EV


https://transportevolved.com/2015/03/14/electragirl-how-long-does-the-battery-last/
ElectraGirl: How Long Does the Battery Last?
March 14, 2015 By ElectraGirl

[images  
https://d290b3p3ki7y5s.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2012-BMW-ActiveE-miles-trip-header1.png
2012 BMW ActiveE miles trip header

https://d290b3p3ki7y5s.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2012-BMW-ActiveE-Bridge-1.jpg
2012 BMW ActiveE Bridge

https://d290b3p3ki7y5s.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2012-BMW-ActiveE-Bridge-2.jpg

https://d290b3p3ki7y5s.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/2012-BMW-ActiveE-Spruce-Run-1.jpg
]

How long does the battery last? This is one of the questions we are asked
the most often from people when we are out and about showing off our
Electric Cars – I think that they are really asking, How far can you drive
on a single charge?

As we’ve found out over the years there really isn’t a definitive answer.
The range on the cars guess-o-meter will give you an idea but after many
drives we have found that it is all down to the way you drive the car. Drive
nice and gently and you will get more miles out of your battery, drive fast
and you will see your miles disappear at a rather quicker rate. I would say
it is one of the more difficult questions to answer accurately.

One day three years ago we decided that we should test the theory out with
our 2012 BMW ActiveE. You know, just to see how far we could drive on one
charged battery. Here’s what we found.

We planned a Sunday afternoon drive with the ActiveE, going out for a fun
drive rather than driving for necessity, even though driving the ActiveE was
always fun regardless. We wanted to see how well the battery did and what
kind of mileage we could actually get. The weather didn’t look good when we
awoke to fog and rain on the Sunday morning, but we’re British, after all,
so that wasn’t going to stop us. Fortunately by the afternoon the rain had
stopped and the sun had started to make an appearance so it looked like our
drive would be rather pleasant.

We set off with my Sidekick adamant that he knew where we were going, he
said that he had a drive all planned out. Jolly good! Although, we had only
been driving for ten minutes when we had to stop and switch on the Satellite
Navigation as he suddenly wasn’t quite so sure anymore! Hmm – It turned out
that we had already gone the wrong way! A good start. With the car now going
in the correct direction, we settled back to enjoy the drive and take in
some new scenery. The day was warm enough that we could turn off the HVAC,
so we were able to drive along so silently. The HVAC is actually quite
noisy, I guess that this is what happens when you don’t have an engine
drowning out everything else, you actually hear things that you wouldn’t
normally hear in a petrol car.

The range remaining display on the ActiveE seems to be quite true to what it
says, it does seem quite stable. Often when we first get in the car in a
morning the difference between the range reported in regular mode and Eco
mode is quite significant, there can be as much as a 12 mile difference.

The ActiveE has “Eco mode”. When you engage “Eco” the car reduces the
sensitivity of the accelerator and reduces the power to the HVAC. This
encourages you to drive more gently and reduces the heating and cooling
power demands. Basically, you give up some comfort and fun for more miles.

We had left home with 98% charge (it was still charging when we unplugged
it) and we had an approximate range of 80 miles in regular mode, and 96
miles in Eco mode. We ended up driving over 80 miles that day and still came
home with 16 miles to spare. How could that be? Well, we drove for about
four hours, most of the driving was on 35 mph roads with the odd 50 mph
blasts thrown in and the occasional slow 20 mph road. As we drove very
economically, the car began to re-evaluate the available range. When we
checked the battery level it had climbed from the starting point of 80 miles
up to a 96 mile range in regular mode, hence the 16 miles still remaining at
the end of the day. So, if you drive gently you can really get quite a few
more miles out of your battery and its predicted range will go up. The
predicted range looks at how you drove the car the day before and guesses
how many miles you will get out of the battery determined on the previous
days driving. Which is why I would always see a higher predicted range than
my Sidekick would – Just saying!

It seemed that on our drive, that by driving gently in regular mode, the
difference between the regular mode estimate and the Eco mode estimate had
converged. At one point during that day, at 50% battery, it was only a three
mile difference. This makes us believe that it is all down to the way the
car is driven… drive gently and you get almost the same amount of miles in
Comfort mode as you would in Eco mode. Driving on the motorway, the miles go
down quicker due to the increase in speed… the faster you 

[EVDL] EVLN: $75k Zecoo Cool Electric Crotch-Rocket r:75mi ts:75mph

2015-03-31 Thread brucedp5 via EV


http://en.rocketnews24.com/2015/03/27/awesome-new-electric-motorcycle-looks-like-something-out-of-akiras-neo-tokyo/
Awesome new electric motorcycle looks like something out of “Akira”‘s Neo
Tokyo
Mike  [2015/03/27]

[images  
https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo2.jpg

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo.jpg

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo3.jpg
(limited production 49 individual models)

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo1.jpg

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo6.jpg

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo5.jpg

https://sociorocketnewsen.files.wordpress.com/2015/03/zecoo4.jpg
] ...
This is the appropriately sci-fi looking zecOO from Znug Design, and it can
apparently reach a top speed of around 75 mph; not fast by motorcycle
standards, but when you’re straddling the two enormous wheels of a crotch
rocket this cool, speed somehow doesn’t matter as much. Besides, 75 mph is
plenty fast enough to make you fear for your life on the taxi-packed streets
of Tokyo.

One of only a handful of electric motorcycles that break from classic
motorcycle design, the zecOO’s aesthetic is pretty clearly inspired – at
least in part – by Japan’s future-fantasy pop cultural works. It sits low to
the ground and features a bizarre-looking hub-center steering system that
more resembles tank controls than a standard cycle’s handlebars. It runs on
a lithium battery and falls into the 250cc range, meaning it fits into
Japan’s chu-gata category of motorcycle and can be operated with a standard
license in spite of its ferocious appearance.

The only drawback is the price tag, which sits at a cool 8,880,000 yen
(about US$70,000). We’re pretty sure the events of Akira will have long
since become a reality by the time we save up that much scratch.
[© RocketNews24 / SOCIO]
...
http://www.gizmodo.jp/2015/03/_zecoo.html
zecOO - THE ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE  [In Japanese]
2015.03.25
[images]
...
http://www.zecoomotor.com/specs.html
zecOO - THE ELECTRIC MOTORCYCLE - specs
...
http://www.globaltimes.cn/content/913994.shtml
On your bike
Mar 25, 2015 - the new Zecoo electric motorcycle in Tokyo on Wednesday. The
bike can cover 160km after being charged for 4 hrs ...
...
[dated
video  (In Japanese)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Xu8iSZGqaY
zecOO Electric motorcycle - Tokyo ...
Video for zecoo electric motorcycle 1:43
Mar 26, 2012 - zecOO Electric motorcycle - Tokyo motorshow 2012
] 
...
http://gizmodo.com/5906049/this-stunning-electric-bike-is-like-a-jet-fighter-on-two-wheels
This Stunning Electric Bike Is Like a Jet Fighter On Two Wheels
Jesus Diaz  4/28/12
[images] ...




For EVLN posts use:
http://evdl.org/evln/
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https://recombu.com/cars/article/are-electric-cars-hard-to-resell
Reselling EVs are improving as real-world battery range improves

http://www.eetindia.co.in/ART_8800710931_188_NT_018c835f.HTM
Bosch CEO predicted 75% EV battery price drop, 2x density by 2020

http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2015-03-18/vw-to-decide-on-new-battery-technology-for-electric-cars-by-july
VW to Decide on New Battery Technology for Electric Cars by July
...
https://transportevolved.com/2015/03/25/volkswagen-considers-solid-state-battery-packs-for-super-long-range-electric-cars/
Volkswagen Considers Solid-State Battery Packs for Super-Long Range Electric
Cars

http://www.pv-magazine.com/services/press-releases/details/beitrag/sodium-batteries--applications-and-advantages-of-environmentally-friendly-and-efficient-technology_100018722/#axzz3VCf6yofG
Sodium-nickel batteries applicationsadvantages overview
+
EVLN: Automakers race to double the driving range of affordable EVs


{brucedp.150m.com}



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Re: [EVDL] ENERDEL Battery Experiences

2015-03-31 Thread Stephen via EV
 a single customer application. They talk about how they
  could do these applications, but don't identify any actual uses.
 
  There is only one actual photograph of a cell, module, pack, or BMS. All
  CAD renderings - not a good sign.
  http://www.enerdel.com/se175-384-a-secure/
  shows a completly generif metal box with lifting eyes. Not even and
  ENERDAL log.
 
  Call me suspicious.
 
  They might be an outlet for a perfectly competent Chinese manufacturer,
 or
  who knows what.
 
  Maybe you can get them to show you the beef. Maybe some testimonials? A
  happy customer you can call?
 
 
  Mike Ross
 
 
 
  On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 5:22 PM, Mike via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
 
   I am in the process of deciding what type of Lithium batteries to use.
   Been through all the retoric on CALB, etc. Read the used Nissan battery
   threads and am leaning toward ENERDEL batteries for two reasons,, (1)
  They
   are a US company and (2) the discharge curve seems to be a steady
  declining
   ramp with a ‘soft’ end point. EVOLVE Electrics is also very helpful. I
 am
   well aware the company had a rough few years but it looks like they
 have
   recovered. Looking for a 144 volt nominal/168V max system and 200 AHrs.
   So…does anyone have any solid experience using ENERDEL batteries?
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  To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
  Thomas A. Edison
  http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html
 
  A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
  *Warren Buffet*
 
  Michael E. Ross
  (919) 585-6737 Land
  (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google
  Phone
  (919) 631-1451 Cell
 
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 --
 To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
 Thomas A. Edison
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

 A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
 *Warren Buffet*

 Michael E. Ross
 (919) 585-6737 Land
 (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google
 Phone
 (919) 631-1451 Cell

 michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] ENERDEL Battery Experiences

2015-03-31 Thread Michael Ross via EV
My new edition of Linden's Handbook of Batteries lists LFP as 3.45V
nominal.  On the ENERDEL website is no information at all about the anode
chemistry.  I was making my best guess.

On Wed, Apr 1, 2015 at 12:46 AM, Stephen stephen.holl...@gmail.com wrote:

 Not sure why you think Enerdel could be LiFePO4 (3.3V nom)... They
 are LiMn2O4 (LMO). Nice batteries.

 Regards,
 Stephen

 On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 8:58 PM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:

 I wonder why their website is so skimpy, given they seem to be legit.  Do
 they actually make the cells in the US, or just assemble the packs?

 I downloaded the spec sheet.

 http://www.enerdel.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Cell-Binder.pdf

 What I see in terms of cycle life is not instructive.  The product page
 says:
 

- Durability and low self-discharge; retains greater than 85% of
 initial

capacity after more than 3,000 cycles at 100% DOD and 30°C
​

 They cut off charging at 4.1V and call that 100% SOC.  They say the
 nominal
 voltage is 3.6V.  This sounds like a LiFePO4 voltage.  But, it is a guess​
 - they don't reveal it.

 LFP is particularly vulnerable to deterioration at lower temperatures than
 other cell chemistries.  At 35°C (104°F) LFP starts to have accelerating
 deterioration.  It would be interesting to see how close to the 45°C line
 that they do show is to the 35°C line that they don't show.  The best of
 all information would be a family of curves that illustrates the region
 where deterioration accelerates.

 The graph on the spec sheet shows a 30°C curve that has only ~75% of
 capacity at 3000 cycles, not 85%.  So I am confused about that
 information.​
 ​
 ​


 I am going to digress to my pet topic here, cell testing:

 They have a C/2 charge and discharge rate. So the cycles are 1 hour start
 to finish.  They don't indicate a dwell time at the max SOC. So they take
 it up and immediately bring it back down.   Also the test equipment must
 be
 capable of sensing the decrease in capacity very precisely.  Not many
 people have this equipment, yet.  If understand why HOC is better and
 we push for it , then eventually it will supplant what is used now.  The
 video I keep linking to- Dr. Dahn discuss
 ​es​
 this in some detail.

 If high precision coulometry (HPC) is used, then you have better chance of
 knowing about the cells true durability in service.   WIth HPC y
 ou can have far few
 ​er​
 cycles and detect damage if you just hold at the fully charged state and
 temperature
 ​ - nothing much else matters​
 .  But
 ​,​
 if the idea is to show lots of cycles, not actually evaluate how NOT to
 operate the cells, then you run cycles like they have
 ​ (​
 and most everyone else in the business).​

 I am not say they are bad guys, but pointing out the problem with the bad
 old ways of testing cells.

 The problem that kills Li ion cells is the fully charged state
 a coinciding with higher temperature. The mechanism of damage is achieving
 a reaction activation energy when the cell is fully charged.  Below that
 temperature there is far less of a problem.   To evaluate the cell quality
 of design and manufacture you actually need to see at what conditions the
 cells deteriorate.

 You could take the same physical cells and use
 different electrolyte packages, test them with 1 hour cycles and see no
 difference, but with HPC and long dwell times you could
 tell which combination is better.  This is where the industry need to go.

  Mike


 On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 10:31 PM, Jeff Major via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 wrote:

  Hello EVDL,
 
  EnerDel makes a great cell and battery here in the USA.  I have been to
  their factory in the Indianapolis area many times.  I use the product
 just
  about every day.  I can write more but want to see if this message
 makes to
  thru to the board.
  Regards,
  Jeff Major
 
 
 
   On Sunday, March 29, 2015 9:09 PM, HARSHA GODAVARI via EV 
  ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
 
 
   Their contact info shows their location as,Greenfield .Ind May be
  someone in the vicinity can pay them a visit.
 
  regards
  hg
 
  - Original Message -
 
  From: Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
  To: Mike mska...@cox.net, Electric Vehicle Discussion List 
  ev@lists.evdl.org
  Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 12:09:01 AM
  Subject: Re: [EVDL] ENERDEL Battery Experiences
 
  Mike,
 
  Caveat emptor.
 
  A US company, but I can't see any information on the website that tells
 me
  they have a good cell, modules or packs. It is rather uninformative. I
  can't tell if they are more than an outlet for a non-US company.
 
  To me the most important thing to know is what they cells are made of,
 and
  have they had useful life testing; which is to say high precision
  coulometry. WIthout that knowledge there I very little about the life
 spec
  that is comforting. This will be hard to get from any manufacturer
 because
  it is new. But the usual life testing is very weak. If you find out more
  about the 

Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from aNissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread Roland via EV
   
According to Nissan, in the newer 2014 cells that I have, is a minimum of 2.4 
volts, but it is prefer for a long life to stay above 3.6 volts on a cell that 
is rated for 4.2 volts.  It is prefer not to charge above 4.0 volts. 

 

My battery pack at 4 volts per cell is equal to 214 volts.  In a 10 mile run, 
the voltage drop is only to 211.5 volts which is 0.04 vd per mile. This leaves 
me to a minimum volt drop to 3.6 volts per cell or 194.4 volts minimum or a 
range of 48.5 miles in a EV that weighs 5500 lbs. 

 

Roland 


- Original Message - 

From: via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

To: ev@lists.evdl.orgmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 7:12 AM

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from aNissan 
Leaf



Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf  
batteries?
 
How about for the Chevy Volt batteries?
 
Thanks,
 
Dave Delman
eLectricDeLorean.com
http://www.evalbum.com/1482http://www.evalbum.com/1482

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Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread Jay Summet via EV



On 03/31/2015 09:12 AM, via EV wrote:

Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf
batteries?


No hard facts, but here are my estimates:

The Nissan leaf battery is made up of 48 modules, each providing 7-8.2 
volts at 60Ah, for a total of 390-400 volt max @ 60Ah or ~24 kWh.


The leaf motor is rated at 80 kW, and the battery pack is supposed to be 
able to provide up to 90 kW (motor + all accessories), which at maximum 
voltage would be 228 amps. This is around 3.8 times C (60Ah) which seems 
to be easily in the realm of possibility, and matches up with the fact 
that the fuse in the leaf battery pack is a 250 amp fuse.


Individual modules MAY be able to provide  10C (600amps!) for a short 
period of time, but may also burst into flame or just die quickly if 
asked to do soI wouldn't recommend it!


I expect that they can provide a solid 3C rate for a relatively decent 
amount of time (30 seconds anyways) without any serious ill effects in 
the long term, which is very much in line with other lithium batteries.


For my application (S-10 pickup at 120 volts) I'll rarely need to go 
over a 300 amp draw (typically 50-100 amps continuous) and am planning 
on arranging them in sixteen series packs of 3 parallel modules, giving 
a 180-190 Ah battery at close to 120 volts. So my max discharge will 
probably be closer to the 1.7-2 C rate which feels relatively 
conservative to me.


Jay
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Re: [EVDL] ENERDEL Battery Experiences

2015-03-31 Thread phil hochstetler via EV
 http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

 A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
 *Warren Buffet*

 Michael E. Ross
 (919) 585-6737 Land
 (919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google
 Phone
 (919) 631-1451 Cell

 michael.e.r...@gmail.com
 michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Lawrence Rhodes via EV
Don't forget.  What you get from the solar panels is gravy.  You battery pack 
is the reservoir.  Stella which is very efficient can go 40 mph on just the 
solar array under perfect conditions.  You take what you can get and if it's 
not enough just use J1772.  You will be driving under all conditions.  If I was 
really far thinking I'd throw up a sail, add pedals or find a way to tap 
geothermalthat said I am using the easiest way to collectbut a 
stationary wind energy collector has been done and in some areas much better 
than solar.  Lawrence Rhodes 
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Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan Leaf

2015-03-31 Thread Roland via EV
   
Hello Jay,  

 

Parallel three modules is like paralleling six cells.  This is what I did.  
Unlike all the cells being in series the full battery ampere is felt by all the 
cells.  Lets say you ever get the battery ampere up to 600 amps if you are 
going to drag race, the maximum cell ampere will be 600/6 = 100 amps.  

 

I did a long drive yesterday going up a 5 mile slope at 40 to 50 mph.  On 
acceleration the battery amp never went over 100 amps and the motor ampere is 

about 300 amps.  At a constant speed, the motor ampere is held at 180 amps, the 
battery ampere at 60 ampere and the six cells in parallel are 60/6 = 10 amps 
per cell.

 

So there will be no problem with three modules connected in parallel.  After 
the run of 10.4 miles, it took 29.2 ampere hour.  Charge the battery pack with 
a PFC-50 charger set at 30 amperes and it took 65 minutes to charge.  

 

The battery temperature before the run was 70 F.  Turn on the battery box 
exhaust fans which brought in cool 55 F. morning ambient air.  Let the EV set 
for two hours and the battery temperature was at 68 F.  The ambient air was 
above 80 F between the space of the glass hatch back and the double layer 
battery box. Turn on the hatch fans to exhaust this air back to 72 degrees.  
Did not turn on the battery exhaust fans which may bring in a higher 
temperature than the battery temperature.

 

On the return trip it was a down hill run with some level driving.  The battery 
and motor ampere is 0 to about 30 amperes  which is about 0 to 5 amperes per 
cell. The battery temperature at home was still 68 F!!!  and was still about 
that temperature after charging.  

 

It is best not to remove the cells from the aluminum cases, because the 
aluminum cases act like a heat sink and the cells are space from the ends of 
the modules for air ventilation through vent holes.  The modules are assemble 
together with about 1/8 to 3/16 inch space for air circulation.  Each battery 
pack block should be space apart for air circulation and exhaust venting.   The 
modules should not be touch the sides of the battery box container.  I leave 
about 2 inch space between the modules and about 5 inches between the modules.  

 

Roland 


- Original Message - 

From: Jay Summet via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

To: ev@lists.evdl.orgmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 8:01 AM

Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking Advice: Reusing the battery modules from a Nissan 
Leaf





On 03/31/2015 09:12 AM, via EV wrote:
 Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf
 batteries?

No hard facts, but here are my estimates:

The Nissan leaf battery is made up of 48 modules, each providing 7-8.2 
volts at 60Ah, for a total of 390-400 volt max @ 60Ah or ~24 kWh.

The leaf motor is rated at 80 kW, and the battery pack is supposed to be 
able to provide up to 90 kW (motor + all accessories), which at maximum 
voltage would be 228 amps. This is around 3.8 times C (60Ah) which seems 
to be easily in the realm of possibility, and matches up with the fact 
that the fuse in the leaf battery pack is a 250 amp fuse.

Individual modules MAY be able to provide  10C (600amps!) for a short 
period of time, but may also burst into flame or just die quickly if 
asked to do soI wouldn't recommend it!

I expect that they can provide a solid 3C rate for a relatively decent 
amount of time (30 seconds anyways) without any serious ill effects in 
the long term, which is very much in line with other lithium batteries.

For my application (S-10 pickup at 120 volts) I'll rarely need to go 
over a 300 amp draw (typically 50-100 amps continuous) and am planning 
on arranging them in sixteen series packs of 3 parallel modules, giving 
a 180-190 Ah battery at close to 120 volts. So my max discharge will 
probably be closer to the 1.7-2 C rate which feels relatively 
conservative to me.

Jay
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Lee Hart via EV

Michael Ross via EV wrote:

​A sail is impractical, unmanageable, a very good way to tip over with out
a keel or daggerboard.

Pedaling adds almost nothing as most of us have a hard time producing
100Watts continuously.​

So called small wind energy is a money pit with no real payback

Geothermal is costly because you can't drill a deep hole just anywhere and
it costs a lot


All true. But, there are special cases. Just to play devil's advocate:

If you *are* getting power for a boat, then PV on the sail *does* make 
some sense. You have an enormous amount of area on those sails. I've 
seen small PV arrays on sailboats, but haven't seen a Yankee Clipper 
solar-powered racing sailboat yet. Possible?


Pedaling certainly works if the vehicle is very small. Joel Davidson 
commuted regularly on a 3-wheel recumbent trike with a 2' x 4' PV panel 
for a roof.


Small wind power works just fine for locations where you just don't have 
the room for PV, or have problems with things like snow. It can also be 
very cheap if done right (we have this modern propensity to vastly 
over-complicate everything). Remember that millions of of farmers 
successfully used windmills for decades before rural electrification.


Geothermal is easy if you happen to be next to a river or lake. Or, I 
went to school in Michigan's Keewanaw peninsula. There are hundreds of 
abandoned mines left over from the copper mining boom times. So there 
are buildings that get their heating and cooling simply by ducting in 
the air from some old mine shaft or air vent. It's 68 deg.F year round!


Also, on PV for vehicles. I've wondered why they haven't built a 
commuter train with PV panels on the roof. Rail has such low rolling 
resistance and such a huge amount of roof area that I'll bet you could 
make a considerable amount of your power with PV. If I wanted to set a 
land speed record for a purely solar powered vehicle, I'd build a solar 
car that ran on rails!


Don't take these as serious suggestions for widespread use. But they 
*are* examples of special case solutions that might be useful in certain 
circumstances. :-)

--
Sometimes when you innovate, you make mistakes. It is best to admit
them quickly and get on with improving your other innovations.
(Steve Jobs)
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Peri Hartman via EV

Getting a bit OT, but I'll chime in on hydro.

As has been discussed before, one of the big issues with people putting 
in their own PV systems or wind is that they cause a less consistent 
demand from the grid.  We are seeing some power companies backlash by 
imposing a surcharge on those persons who take the bold steps of 
reducing their grid dependency.


One of the advantages of hydro power is that energy production can be 
ramped up and down relatively quickly compared to coal and nuclear.  
It's true that we've already tapped essentially all good hydro power 
locations.  But we've only put in a fraction of pumped storage.  Pumped 
storage can be built as lakes or done underground in, say, abandoned 
coal mines.  With pumped storage, existing power companies could meet 
their peak demands without building more expensive and polluting plants. 
 Is there a way we can encourage power companies to build pumped storage 
instead of more coal, nuke, or gas turbine plants?


One way is to show the power companies that its cheaper to build pumped 
storage than to build new traditional power plants.  According to EIA

  http://www.eia.gov/forecasts/capitalcost/pdf/updated_capcost.pdf
its is cheaper up front to build pumped storage than nuclear.  It is 
also cheaper than building a coal plant that provides carbon 
sequestering.


Thus, if the power companies were to continue to charge the same rate 
for electricity from pumped storage, they are making a better ROI than 
from building out new traditional power plants.  In effect, the people 
installing PV and other systems are doing the power companies a favor!


Peri

-- Original Message --
From: Ben Goren via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
To: Michael Ross michael.e.r...@gmail.com; Electric Vehicle 
Discussion List ev@lists.evdl.org

Sent: 31-Mar-15 11:37:52 AM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

On Mar 31, 2015, at 11:15 AM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org 
wrote:



 So called small wind energy is a money pit with no
 real payback - you need an exceptional location for a small turbine 
to be

 worth the effort.


Wind and hydro are just diluted forms of solar. On a planetary scale, 
they can't even begin to compete with solar photovoltaics.


However, there are certain microclimates where the landscape 
concentrates either wind or hydro in such a way that either can be a 
superlative local source of energy -- especially if the Sun tends to 
hide in those same climates.


Both are, ultimately, niche players...but they can be potentially 
indispensable in their relative niches.


Again however...the hydro niches are long since already developed, and 
the wind niches are mostly certain coastal regions and high mountain 
passes. Another interesting potential good use of wind is cropland...a 
single individual turbine won't necessarily have impressive generating 
capacities, but really big numbers of them can be put in in a way that 
doesn't interfere with growing crops and, in so doing, significantly 
increase the economic productivity of the land for the farmers.


Residential wind power makes sense for a few people, but only a very 
few people. (And it really does make all kinds of sense for certain 
people...just not for most.)


Rooftop solar, on the other hand, is economically viable basically 
everywhere, including the Pacific Northwest. It's more profitable in 
some places than others, but it's profitable everywhere (with a few 
footnotes, of course).


b
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Michael Ross via EV
Lee,

I would disagree that small wind power works well.  There are no reliable
efficient small wind turbines (which is why the companies that make them
keep going out of business). We had the best of the recent ones a 2.4kW
Skystream at my work, but Skystream is out of business - failed.

We also had a Mariah Power vertical that was a total piece of junk thought
they were trying hard.  At NREL they were testing them in real bill paying
wind and they fell apart and never passed the testing.

The bottom line is it costs too much to put one up, and because you can't
put up a tall tower most populated places you can't get any wind on them.
A tall tower costs.

Re geothermal, I was talking about making power not delivering space heat.



On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 3:52 PM, Lee Hart via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Michael Ross via EV wrote:

 ​A sail is impractical, unmanageable, a very good way to tip over with out
 a keel or daggerboard.

 Pedaling adds almost nothing as most of us have a hard time producing
 100Watts continuously.​

 So called small wind energy is a money pit with no real payback

 Geothermal is costly because you can't drill a deep hole just anywhere and
 it costs a lot


 All true. But, there are special cases. Just to play devil's advocate:

 If you *are* getting power for a boat, then PV on the sail *does* make
 some sense. You have an enormous amount of area on those sails. I've seen
 small PV arrays on sailboats, but haven't seen a Yankee Clipper
 solar-powered racing sailboat yet. Possible?

 Pedaling certainly works if the vehicle is very small. Joel Davidson
 commuted regularly on a 3-wheel recumbent trike with a 2' x 4' PV panel for
 a roof.

 Small wind power works just fine for locations where you just don't have
 the room for PV, or have problems with things like snow. It can also be
 very cheap if done right (we have this modern propensity to vastly
 over-complicate everything). Remember that millions of of farmers
 successfully used windmills for decades before rural electrification.

 Geothermal is easy if you happen to be next to a river or lake. Or, I went
 to school in Michigan's Keewanaw peninsula. There are hundreds of abandoned
 mines left over from the copper mining boom times. So there are buildings
 that get their heating and cooling simply by ducting in the air from some
 old mine shaft or air vent. It's 68 deg.F year round!

 Also, on PV for vehicles. I've wondered why they haven't built a commuter
 train with PV panels on the roof. Rail has such low rolling resistance and
 such a huge amount of roof area that I'll bet you could make a considerable
 amount of your power with PV. If I wanted to set a land speed record for a
 purely solar powered vehicle, I'd build a solar car that ran on rails!

 Don't take these as serious suggestions for widespread use. But they *are*
 examples of special case solutions that might be useful in certain
 circumstances. :-)
 --
 Sometimes when you innovate, you make mistakes. It is best to admit
 them quickly and get on with improving your other innovations.
 (Steve Jobs)
 --
 Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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-- 
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 585-6737 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
(919) 631-1451 Cell

michael.e.r...@gmail.com
michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Ben Goren via EV
On Mar 31, 2015, at 11:15 AM, Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 So called small wind energy is a money pit with no
 real payback - you need an exceptional location for a small turbine to be
 worth the effort.

Wind and hydro are just diluted forms of solar. On a planetary scale, they 
can't even begin to compete with solar photovoltaics.

However, there are certain microclimates where the landscape concentrates 
either wind or hydro in such a way that either can be a superlative local 
source of energy -- especially if the Sun tends to hide in those same climates.

Both are, ultimately, niche players...but they can be potentially indispensable 
in their relative niches.

Again however...the hydro niches are long since already developed, and the wind 
niches are mostly certain coastal regions and high mountain passes. Another 
interesting potential good use of wind is cropland...a single individual 
turbine won't necessarily have impressive generating capacities, but really big 
numbers of them can be put in in a way that doesn't interfere with growing 
crops and, in so doing, significantly increase the economic productivity of the 
land for the farmers.

Residential wind power makes sense for a few people, but only a very few 
people. (And it really does make all kinds of sense for certain people...just 
not for most.)

Rooftop solar, on the other hand, is economically viable basically everywhere, 
including the Pacific Northwest. It's more profitable in some places than 
others, but it's profitable everywhere (with a few footnotes, of course).

b
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Peri Hartman via EV
Ben, if you can install enough batteries, as I believe you have, to go 
completely off the grid, then of course there's no advantage to the 
power company.


But, for most people, batteries in general can provide leveling to the 
power company but not sustained power.  That is, the power company can 
use the batteries to smooth out spikes and dips but cannot use them (nor 
would I want my battery used that way) to provide sustained power.  
Sustained power must come from the power company.


Where you live, Ben, you don't need to worry about a string of 10 cloudy 
dark days where solar PVs will be next to worthless.  Much of the rest 
of the country does have down times and will likely continue to rely 
on the grid to cover those periods.  Many don't even have the space to 
install a battery if they wanted to.  So, the power companies must have 
the capacity to supply power through such periods.


My claim is the power companies stand to make more profit if they build 
pumped storage instead of coal or nukes.


Peri

-- Original Message --
From: Ben Goren b...@trumpetpower.com
To: Peri Hartman pe...@kotatko.com; Electric Vehicle Discussion 
List ev@lists.evdl.org

Sent: 31-Mar-15 12:24:47 PM
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org 
wrote:


 Thus, if the power companies were to continue to charge the same rate 
for electricity from pumped storage, they are making a better ROI than 
from building out new traditional power plants.


Your analysis passes the sniff test for me from previous 
experience...but, in a similar vein, the _real_ competition is from 
rooftop solar and batteries of the type we're being told will be in the 
Chevy B-as-in-what-a-clueless-marketing-department Bolt and that Tesla 
is strongly hinting at will soon be coming from their Gigafactory.


With that, the grid ostensibly gets the leveling effect the power 
companies want...but at the cost of losing a customer who now no longer 
has any need for the grid at all.


My own utility, Salt River Project, just shot itself in the foot that 
way. People like me with existing solar installations are grandfathered 
for at least a couple decades -- but not if we sell the house. 
Everybody else...will be paying almost as much as they'd be paying 
without solar thanks to their new rate structure.


They missed the boat. They've bought a brief window of time between now 
and the time of cheap batteries. They _could_ have embraced the change 
and become the leading installer (and maintainer and financier!) of 
rooftop solar as well as home batteries (sell it for the benefits of 
the homeowner, profit from a claim on so much power it stores at the 
utility's whim). Instead, they've signed their own corporate suicide 
pact.


Once batteries *do* get cheap -- and they will very soon -- for those 
with capital to invest it'll be cheaper to drop off the grid entirely 
rather than stay connected. For new construction, solar with a battery 
is already cheaper than grid connect fees. And, every customer they so 
lose...well, the money they used to be getting from that customer now 
has to get spread across the remaining customers, with their rates 
exponentially increasing as it becomes more and more profitable for 
more and more people to drop off the grid.


b


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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Ben Goren via EV
On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Thus, if the power companies were to continue to charge the same rate for 
 electricity from pumped storage, they are making a better ROI than from 
 building out new traditional power plants.

Your analysis passes the sniff test for me from previous experience...but, in 
a similar vein, the _real_ competition is from rooftop solar and batteries of 
the type we're being told will be in the Chevy 
B-as-in-what-a-clueless-marketing-department Bolt and that Tesla is strongly 
hinting at will soon be coming from their Gigafactory.

With that, the grid ostensibly gets the leveling effect the power companies 
want...but at the cost of losing a customer who now no longer has any need for 
the grid at all.

My own utility, Salt River Project, just shot itself in the foot that way. 
People like me with existing solar installations are grandfathered for at least 
a couple decades -- but not if we sell the house. Everybody else...will be 
paying almost as much as they'd be paying without solar thanks to their new 
rate structure.

They missed the boat. They've bought a brief window of time between now and the 
time of cheap batteries. They _could_ have embraced the change and become the 
leading installer (and maintainer and financier!) of rooftop solar as well as 
home batteries (sell it for the benefits of the homeowner, profit from a claim 
on so much power it stores at the utility's whim). Instead, they've signed 
their own corporate suicide pact.

Once batteries *do* get cheap -- and they will very soon -- for those with 
capital to invest it'll be cheaper to drop off the grid entirely rather than 
stay connected. For new construction, solar with a battery is already cheaper 
than grid connect fees. And, every customer they so lose...well, the money they 
used to be getting from that customer now has to get spread across the 
remaining customers, with their rates exponentially increasing as it becomes 
more and more profitable for more and more people to drop off the grid.

b
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Michael Ross via EV
​A sail is impractical, unmanageable, a very good way to tip over with out
a keel or daggerboard.  Please do not try this.
Pedaling adds almost nothing as most of us have a hard time producing
100Watts continuously.​  Although it is good for you.

You may notice that wind energy is only very high up, and to get ROI you
need a large scale.  So called small wind energy is a money pit with no
real payback - you need an exceptional location for a small turbine to be
worth the effort.

Geothermal is costly because you can't drill a deep hole just anywhere and
it costs a lot, then you have to deal with the difficult chemicals that
come up with the steam (arsenic for example).  This is not a great choice
for domestic production.  Industrial or neighborhood scale maybe.

On Tue, Mar 31, 2015 at 11:57 AM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:

 Don't forget.  What you get from the solar panels is gravy.  You battery
 pack is the reservoir.  Stella which is very efficient can go 40 mph on
 just the solar array under perfect conditions.  You take what you can get
 and if it's not enough just use J1772.  You will be driving under all
 conditions.  If I was really far thinking I'd throw up a sail, add pedals
 or find a way to tap geothermalthat said I am using the easiest way to
 collectbut a stationary wind energy collector has been done and in some
 areas much better than solar.  Lawrence Rhodes
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-- 
To invent, you need a good imagination and a pile of junk.
Thomas A. Edison
http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/quotes/t/thomasaed125362.html

A public-opinion poll is no substitute for thought.
*Warren Buffet*

Michael E. Ross
(919) 585-6737 Land
(919) 576-0824 https://www.google.com/voice/b/0?pli=1#phones Google Phone
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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
From: Ben Goren via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
 
 the hydro niches are long since already developed

Without arguing with your main point that PV is the largest market, I think 
your statement is not true and unfair to those who do have microhydro potential.

Relatively small streams can generate household amounts of power. I built a 
weir and did a flow test on the seasonal stream behind us, and I estimate it 
could generate close to 20 kW, November through March. That's 72 Megawatt-hours 
annually. That's enough for all the electricity needs, including some electric 
baseboard heat, for over two households -- hardly an amount to neglect!

Micro-hydro remains the most economical, trouble-free way for anyone with a 
stream and 100+ feet of head to obtain electric power. Granted, only a small 
minority meet those specifications, but I would submit that most of those are 
undeveloped.

 Nature has optimized the best way to optimize solar energy for maximum 
power through photosynthesis. -- Mary Logan
 Jan Steinman, EcoReality Co-op 

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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Ben Goren via EV
On Mar 31, 2015, at 12:41 PM, Peri Hartman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Ben, if you can install enough batteries, as I believe you have, to go 
 completely off the grid, then of course there's no advantage to the power 
 company.

I don't have batteries yet and no plans to install them until the finances tip 
sufficiently...considering I'm grandfathered with respect to SRP's new 
exorbitant solar-killing rate plan, that'll be some years.

 But, for most people, batteries in general can provide leveling to the power 
 company but not sustained power.

This is indeed the use case I believe Tesla has in mind for their initial 
markets. Buy their batteries even if you don't have onsite generation; fill the 
batteries off peak when electricity is cheap and drain them on peak when 
electricity is expensive. Depending on how the math works out, you could see 
the capital expense repaid in short order with pure profits afterwards. And 
it'll dramatically increase the market for such batteries, driving down prices 
and all the rest.

 Where you live, Ben, you don't need to worry about a string of 10 cloudy dark 
 days where solar PVs will be next to worthless.

Many places as dire as you describe also have provisions for home heating oil 
or natural gas other energy inputs that could trivially be adapted to power a 
generator for a while. And, until batteries get big and cheap enough, it'll 
likely make sense even here in Arizona to have a small generator to tide over a 
couple days of winter weather now and again. As a bonus...such a generator 
really can be minimal. It doesn't need to meet peak demands, but only average 
demands and let the batteries handle the peaks.

 My claim is the power companies stand to make more profit if they build 
 pumped storage instead of coal or nukes.

I strongly suspect you're right.

But *my* claim is that at least some individuals (and companies like SolarCity) 
already today stand to make more profit with rooftop solar and batteries than 
with anything the utilities can offer, and that the number of such individuals 
will climb rapidly as battery prices fall until, eventually, nobody's left who 
wants to by _any_ power the utility might want to sell -- pumped storage or no.

b
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[EVDL] Line and Load on Breakers

2015-03-31 Thread Bill Dennis via EV
When putting a Heinemann breaker on the negative side of a traction pack, do
you reverse the connections so that the current still flows in the same
direction though the breaker?  That is, should the Line side of the breaker
be connected to the B- terminal of the controller, and the Load side of the
breaker be attached to pack negative?

Thanks,

Bill

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Re: [EVDL] Line and Load on Breakers

2015-03-31 Thread Roland via EV
   
Hello Bill, 

 

You have to look at the specifications of a breaker.  Some breakers have a 
combination AC and DC rating.  A 600 volt AC breaker can be use on 

a 250 VDC circuit.  In this case the LINE side goes to the power source.  

 

We install these type of dual voltage breakers that supply either AC or DC 
loads.  

 

You can also back feed these breakers, meaning we can supply a power source, 
such as a emergency generator to the branch side of the breaker which is the 
same 

as the load side in normal operation.  

 

Some breakers have a screen vent on the load side of the breaker.  This is to 
vent the smoke that comes from the ark of the contacts.  In this type of 
breaker, make sure that the breaker is mounted vertical with load terminals on 
the top. 

 

Roland 

 

 


- Original Message - 

From: Bill Dennis via EVmailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

To: 'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org 

Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2015 4:40 PM

Subject: [EVDL] Line and Load on Breakers



When putting a Heinemann breaker on the negative side of a traction pack, do
you reverse the connections so that the current still flows in the same
direction though the breaker?  That is, should the Line side of the breaker
be connected to the B- terminal of the controller, and the Load side of the
breaker be attached to pack negative?

Thanks,

Bill

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Re: [EVDL] Making solar work in a conventional vehicle.

2015-03-31 Thread Ben Goren via EV
On Mar 31, 2015, at 2:02 PM, Jan Steinman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:

 Micro-hydro remains the most economical, trouble-free way for anyone with a 
 stream and 100+ feet of head to obtain electric power. Granted, only a small 
 minority meet those specifications, but I would submit that most of those are 
 undeveloped.

I wouldn't challenge you on that.

I'd just suggest that that's about as niche as niche gets

b
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