Re: [h-cost] Non destructive testing for wool/synthetic

[Marjorie Wilser]

And now I remember where I recognize you from, Chris. Rav. I’m 
oh-so-imaginitively MarjorieW.

==Marjorie Wilser (wandering a bit off topic)


> On Aug 19, 2016, at 7:46 AM, Chris Laning <clan...@igc.org> wrote:
> 
> If the reason you need to know is to figure out how to wash it, you could 
> simply plan to hand wash it to be on the safe side. Baby things are small and 
> usually don't take forever to wash or dry.
> 
> If there are other concerns (such as potential allergy), the smell and feel 
> tests should give you a clue. You can also ask other knitters to smell and 
> feel it if you're not sure you know how to tell.
> 
> Alternatively -- neither of the "destructive" tests requires more than, say, 
> half an inch of yarn or a pea-sized quantity of fuzz.  Carefully clipping off 
> some "fuzz" from the inside without actually cutting any yarn, or looking for 
> a place to clip a little off the inside of a seam allowance, could let you be 
> sure.
> 


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[h-cost] An amazing sewing machine

[Marjorie Wilser]

Brace yourselves. Mrs. General Tom Thumb had a sewing machine built to scale!

FWIW I’ve seen her tiny corset at the Ringling museum in Sarasota, Florida. I 
doubt she made it herself, but it is tempting to hypothesize.

http://americanhistory.si.edu/blog/yes-mrs-tom-thumb-had-sewing-machine

==Marjorie 
 



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Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating

[Marjorie Wilser]

They also liked hammered copper— did you note the glasses underneath the ones 
linked?

==Marjorie Wilser

> On Mar 24, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Lavolta Press <f...@lavoltapress.com> wrote:
> 
> The furniture mass-produced by Stickley and his imitators was extremely 
> popular, as were all those prefab bungalow houses from Sears, etc., and the 
> premade room dividers and other built-ins you could buy to put in them.
> 
> Thanks but I forgot to say, clear glasses.
> 
> Best,
> 
> Fran
> 
> On 3/24/2016 4:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>> The arts and crafts movement shunned mass produced items. So, how about
>> something like this:
>> http://www.worldmarket.com/product/carats+barware.do?=fn
>> 
> 
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[h-cost] Fabric check

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks to Fran’s post about the fabric seller I have one I want to check. Gut 
instinct says this might be perfect for a Regency over a color, but I would 
like opinions from kind friends. I’m usually doing 50-70 years later than 
Regency.

http://tinyurl.com/z5by7bw

==Marjorie 

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Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear

[Marjorie Wilser]

I wore emerald.

==Marjorie 

> On Jan 27, 2016, at 7:47 AM, scourney  wrote:
> 
> I thought that was the comment for the mother of the groom - show up, shut 
> up, and wear beige. I'm a rapidly greying blonde with pale skin, and in beige 
> I'd be almost invisible. Which perhaps is the point.Susan 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: annbw...@aol.com 
> Date: 01/27/2016  6:15 AM  (GMT-08:00) 
> To: h-cost...@indra.com 
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Wedding wear 
> 
> The mother of the bride wears beige and keeps quiet. But I would think 
> another color would be more fun.


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Re: [h-cost] Patterns available at LACMA

[Marjorie Wilser]

Nice that they are doing the men, who are so often neglected when patterns are 
being sold.

==Marjorie 

> On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Christine Robb  wrote (in 
> part):
> 
> So far they're showing 4:
> 
> Man's At-home Robe (Banyan), China, 1700–50,  Robe: the Netherlands, 1750–60
> 
> Man's Waistcoat, China for the Western market, c. 1740
> 
> Man's Waistcoat, France, c. 1750
> 
> Man's Coat, France, 1790–95
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if this is a new thing or has been up for a while, and
> whether more patterns are going to become available?


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Congrats on your pattern publication, Emily and I’ll look you up! I am 
ever-so-conveniently (but unoriginally) MarjorieW on Rav. :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




> On Dec 18, 2015, at 8:53 AM, Emily Gilbert <emchantm...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Thanks!  I've only had one design published so far (the A Second Chance for 
> Mr. Rushworth Socks in the 2014 issue of Jane Austen Knits magazine), but I 
> have a shawl pattern that I'm hoping to publish independently soon.  My 
> Ravelry name is LadySylvia; the sock pattern is linked from my profile, and 
> the shawl will be put up for sale there.
> http://www.ravelry.com/designers/emily-gilbert
> 
> Emily


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Re: [h-cost] Charity Sewing

[Marjorie Wilser]

I vote for fiction. It seems wrong on so many levels. You don’t “cut a hole" in 
a (new!) stocking to darn. You cut a thread and let it ravel a little. In that 
day, I suspect making ANY kind of hole would never have happened. You wouldn’t 
destroy new goods for any reason, much less to make busy work.

However, the very idea of them darning stockings in a social setting is 
suspect. It just wouldn’t be done in polite circles. Wish I could help on the 
reference.

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


> On Dec 18, 2015, at 2:05 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote:
> 
> A young woman is visiting a household with other young women, and they are
> darning some stockings. It would not be proper to give her one of the
> family's stockings to mend, so they cut a hole in a new stocking for her
> to darn.
> 
> The whole idea seems silly to me, because it seems that there would be
> some new clothing to be made or something for her to do that would not
> require making busy work. That's why it sounds more like historical
> fiction.
> 
> Does it sound familiar to anyone?
> 
> Thanks!
> -Carol


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hah, I like plain sewing for events. Darning. Mending— unpretentious stuff to 
prove to the general public that it IS possible to do the job neatly and make 
things last!

==Marjorie Wilser



> On Dec 17, 2015, at 11:47 AM, Terry <twal...@us.net> wrote:
> 
> Makes sense.  That's what I do in my sewing circle--bring the nice stuff to 
> work on and leave the ugly stuff at home.
> 
> Terry


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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Marjorie Wilser]

 As a fellow knitter I’d be very interested to know about your designs. Do you 
have a Rav name?

==Marjorie Wilser

> On Dec 17, 2015, at 12:40 PM, Emily Gilbert <emchantm...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Having heard Ann's talk at the JASNA AGM, I can confirm that it was excellent 
> in person too!
> 
> I'm still here too.  I haven't been doing much sewing lately, aside from 
> making a chemisette to go with my Regency day dress this fall; most of my 
> creative energies these days are focused on knitting design.
> 
> Emily


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Re: [h-cost] Mouse-proof underwear

[Marjorie Wilser]

Cats are, of course, not so easy to travel with. Miss Browning was on a 
journey, as I thought from the quoted text.

==Marjorie Wilser (who routinely travels with 2 cats. . . but never easily!)



> On Dec 17, 2015, at 2:56 PM, Sharon Collier <sha...@collierfam.com> wrote:
> 
> Maybe bloomers tied closed at the bottom so mice couldn't run up her legs?
> I'd have also gotten a cat. 
> ;-)


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[h-cost] What's your dummy wearing this season?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Mine— alas, still stored. I miss her.

However, were she out to play, she’d have her choice of several large hand knit 
lace shawls. I have spent a lot of enjoyable time knitting lace the last few 
years. It has distracted me from doing a lot of sewing. 

Since SCA-period groups are my only local choice I dabble occasionally there, 
but not enough to warrant new clothes as yet. Since my Elizabethans are not so 
comfy for many events I am working on hand-sewing a linen dress of the t-tunic 
persuasion with wide gores in the skirt. 

Then I sewed a set of gores in, inside-out. The project is currently on hold. 
Those seams were tight! :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/





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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Another one here— I am NOT on FB very often, finding it too much of a 
signal-to-noise issue.

==Marjorie Wilser

> On Dec 17, 2015, at 6:34 AM, Kathryn Pinner <pinn...@mccc.edu> wrote:
> 
> I'm here. Still like to see what's posted. I'm not on Facebook.
> 
> Kate Pinner
> 
> Costume & Scenic Design
> 
> Tech. Coord., Kelsey Theatre, MCCC
> 
> 609-570-3584
> 
> pinn...@mccc.edu


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[h-cost] Text and textile

[Marjorie Wilser]

Love this one!  As a bookbinder and costumer. . . :)

http://blogs.bodleian.ox.ac.uk/theconveyor/2014/06/06/texts-and-textiles-finding-manuscripts-in-unusual-places/#.VcQbkobyU2M.facebook

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/





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Re: [h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks!!
Definitely good to hear from you, Deb! Any plans to be in this neck of the 
woods during the year? I think we’re overdue for a visit (despite my current 
costuming non-activity).

==Marjorie 
On Mar 6, 2015, at 2:00 PM, Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker d...@mantua-maker.com 
wrote:

 I'd bet that Scot cloth was a plaid, but it could be a linen, similar to 
 Irish linen.
 
 I agree that ferret was a silk ribbon and/or a narrow woolen tape. Usually 
 silk, though.
 
 Dow lace perplexes me, since dowlas was defined as A coarse kind of linen 
 in 1797.
 
 Happy sewing,
   Deb Salisbury


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[h-cost] historic cloth names, early 18th c

[Marjorie Wilser]

Interesting blog post at
http://vita-brevis.org/2015/02/widow-lydia-scottows-wardrobe/?utm_source=twgnewsletterutm_medium=newsletterutm_campaign=twg729
discusses historic fabric names from family accounts between appx. 1701- 1705.

I’d be curious if any list members have reflections on the names listed there 
and their definitions. There are a few terms near the end of the entry which 
the author, not a sewer, couldn’t identify: nor can I.

Have fun!

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/





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Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks very much for including bust cup adjustments, Hope. As a D+ I often run 
into issues with commercial patterns. I’m used to taking the time but Regency 
is not my decade/s of custom. I have a stalled Regency (not a commercial one) 
which I could now bring out and finish thanks to your comments :)

Humbly in your debt,

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Feb 27, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Hope Greenberg h...@uvm.edu wrote:

 On 2/27/15 1:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote:
 Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if 
 this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to 
 make it HA?
 
 
 Butterick is getting better with their Regency patterns. That said, here is 
 what I would change:
 


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Re: [h-cost] New Topic: Is this a Postmortem Photo

[Marjorie Wilser]

No. Odd pose is probably natural for a little guy who couldn’t stand still. 
Belt not all that odd for the era. Dunno about the shoes (or the lack). I’d 
guess if they weren’t rich he might have to wait for an older sibling’s pair?? 

In my experience postmortem photos were universally shot with the subject laid 
out as if sleeping peacefully, not standing up with siblings.

==Marjorie Wilser

On Jan 14, 2015, at 10:07 PM, Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com wrote:

 I'll open a can of worms.  I have a photo of my Dad and his siblings from
 1912 http://www.costumegallery.com/kids2.jpg . The little boy in this front
 is he postmortem or handicapped.  He passed away in 1912.  I have always
 thought the belt around him was odd and being shoeless.  My Dad told me once
 that his mother was very strict and would not allow them to go around
 barefooted.  Last week I was dusting the photo's frame and gave it a hard
 look and thought it might be postmortem.


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[h-cost] Barge's cement

[Marjorie Wilser]

So I have a repair project which is only marginally costume-y.

However. It is a cheapie modern trunk made to look old with vinyl trim. The 
trim is stitched and then glued down. Yeah. Right. But it’s coming up all over 
and looks horrible. I still like the little trunk and want to make it shipshape 
again.

In examining the offerings on Amazon, I find (link below)
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dapsfield-keywords=barge%27s+cement

Too many packages to make an intelligent choice from. All claim to be Barge’s 
cement.

So, users of Barge’s for shoemaking and other wonders— which is my best bet, 
please?

Many thanks!

==Marjorie Wilser


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

I hit their site but the minimum order is killer! $79???  Not me!

Thanks!

On May 8, 2014, at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste auroracele...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've had good luck with Hats by Leko:  http://www.hatsupply.com
 
 
 On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.
 
 Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada….
 slower and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum
 order of $76— their “low” price. Right.
 
 I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find a
 presence on the web??
 
 I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.
 
 Thanks, List!
 
 ==Marjorie
 
 
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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Depends on the weekend— 2nd Saturday of course I”m up there.

Janet doesn’t list brim wire :(  I emailed her hoping it’s just the site’s 
problem.

On May 8, 2014, at 6:02 PM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote:

 http://www.alteryears.net/
 See you in July?  I'm heading to CoCo.
 
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 cinbar...@gmail.com
 
 
 On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 5:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'm looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.
 


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks!!

Naturally it’s out of stock. (sigh)

==Marjorie

On May 8, 2014, at 6:10 PM, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote:

 Here too!  https://www.judithm.com/
 
 
 On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 6:04 PM, Aurora Celeste auroracele...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 I've had good luck with Hats by Leko:  http://www.hatsupply.com
 
 
 On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 wrote:


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks, Sharon!  I looked at florist wire but decided for the current 
application it was much too lightweight!

On May 9, 2014, at 1:22 AM, Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com wrote:

 Not knowing there was such a thing as brim wire, I used florist wire from
 the craft store. Much cheaper. 
 Sharon C. 


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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks Kay, their  minimum order is $79 or something. . . alas!

On May 9, 2014, at 3:48 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote:

 Tis site has milliner's wire and plastic brim wire...
 
 http://www.hatsupply.com/wire.htm
 

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Re: [h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks, Deb! They seem to have everything to do with corset and hoops but no 
brim wire. It’s an interesting search though :)

==Marjorie

On May 9, 2014, at 7:54 AM, Deb Salisbury, Mantua-Maker d...@mantua-maker.com 
wrote:

 Try the LA office of Farthingales:
 http://www.farthingalesla.com/
 
 I don't see it on their site, but they might have it offline.


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[h-cost] Brim wire!

[Marjorie Wilser]

I’m looking for brim wire and not having a whole lotta luck.

Sources, anybody? The best I can find so far is Farthingales in Canada…. slower 
and with duty. I’m in the US. A millinery company wants a minimum order of $76— 
their “low” price. Right.

I looked for Janet Wilson Anderson’s Raiments/ AlterYears but can’t find a 
presence on the web??

I need 3 yd minimum, with crimpers/joiners for ends.

Thanks, List!

==Marjorie


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Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Many thanks! I have to haul the few books I have out of storage but I’ve an 
answer now that will take this (very minor) project where it needs to go!

==Marjorie 
On Mar 13, 2014, at 1:38 AM, michaela de bruce michaela.de.br...@gmail.com 
wrote:

 
 a. Not upper class, more middling.
 b. pleats are fine by me.
 c. have at least 4x waist.
 d. allowing for bum roll
 
 Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy'ing
 my
 buns back there tomorrow to pick them up.
 Too bad though- cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look!
 
 
 Both Dorothea gowns (Sabine and Maria) are essentially gauged even though
 they are both made from dense fabrics. Figure 340 in Patterns of Fashion
 especially shows how fine the gathers are. They show so little of the
 fabric that you can't really call them pleats, it is much closer to gauging
 than what should be called cartridge pleating. Also the child's gown c1600
 is gathered.
 
 I may have a few issues with how confusing it gets when cartridge pleats
 are meant to be padded and you know, look like a row of cartridges ;) But
 the term is used to refer to even gathers. These are technically 17thC of
 course.
 
 It's generally a case of make the fabric fit- which is pretty much the
 extent of what tailors say in their manuals. Nothing about specific methods
 or percentages. Just make these parts match. Also important is how much
 flare to the skirt gores you use because they really are a key to what
 region and what time frame you are aiming for. And gores are really
 important everywhere except for 1590s on and some of the Italian stuff.
 Basically you get more hem for your buck by goring.
 
 Even Eleanora's skirt has pleats that are wider than they are deep, or
 rather there are narrow knife pleats with expanses of unpleated fabric. Not
 really something you can rigorously calculate ;)

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Re: [h-cost] gauging for gathers?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks to you both!!

a. Not upper class, more middling.
b. pleats are fine by me.
c. have at least 4x waist.
d. allowing for bum roll

Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy’ing my 
buns back there tomorrow to pick them up.
Too bad though— cartridge pleating/gauging is a really pretty look!

==Marjorie 

On Mar 12, 2014, at 12:38 AM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have been thinking about this since your message came through a few hours
 ago, trying to come up with a source to prove or disprove the use of
 gathers in 1550 to 1600. (One of the things I adore about this list is that
 folks site documentation to back up opinions.) However, I'm drawing a blank
 too, since most of our existing examples show those of wealth, layered in
 seriously significant amounts of yardage.
 
 What class of gown are you working on?
 
 It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the
 yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, and
 therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one only had
 enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than the hip
 measurement, 5 inches would not pleat evenly all the way around. To evenly
 space the pleats and put them all the way around without major gaps between
 them, the fabric must be 1.5 times the waist measurement, at minimum,
 right? (And this doesn't even take into account bum rolls.)
 
 It's not like gathering wasn't a new skill in that time period...by that
 era, people had been manipulating fabric with that technique for a long,
 long time.
 
 If you're not aiming for upper class, I say go for it.
 
 If you are aiming for upper class, and are low on fabric, maybe a Spanish
 surcoat would work for the amount of fabric you have...?
 
 Or are you just trying to get out of making pleats?? *wink*
 
 'Bella
 
 On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Elizabeth Jones 
 elizabethrjones2...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I can't think of any Elizabethan images that show pleats as small as
 those in mid 19th century skirts (which is the context in which I have
 previously heard the term gauging) Cartridge pleats are one of the
 types of pleats used but judging by portraits I wouldn't put in pleats
 any smaller than 1 inch wide (i.e.I mean 1 inch as the section showing
 on top of the pleat not the total amount of fabric taken up by the
 pleat) for an Elizabethan skirt.
 Elizabeth
 
 On Wed, Mar 12, 2014 at 1:58 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 Just curious. . . I don't have a good Elizabethan book to hand.
 
 In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt?  Many thanks! I
 can do it. . . but little tucks are easier. :)

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[h-cost] gauging for gathers?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Just curious. . . I don’t have a good Elizabethan book to hand.

In period, is gauging/gathering appropriate for a skirt?  Many thanks! I can do 
it. . . but little tucks are easier. :)

==Marjorie Wilser



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[h-cost] Wow. Kid fashion

[Marjorie Wilser]

Just had to share this. Talk about amazing from a kid!
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/02/26/4-year-old-paper-dresses-fashion-by-mayhem_n_4855545.html

==Marjorie Wilser


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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[Marjorie Wilser]

It worked! Had to do a screen capture to get the text and the pic. I may not be 
that much help but it does seem like the directions are more clear than, say, 
in the 1890s. I have a bunch of French patterns from then and earlier and the 
so-called instructions are really only the barest of descriptions to accompany 
the pattern shapes you trace and cut out.

==Marjorie Wilser (thinking about trying to follow the directions and see where 
it leads!)


On Feb 11, 2014, at 7:00 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 It took me a while to find it online somewhere. Here...
 
 http://club.season.ru/index.php?act=Attachtype=postid=372206
 
 I sure hope that works!
 
 
 On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 4:55 PM, Janet Davis bear_ja...@msn.com wrote:

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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[Marjorie Wilser]

Do you have a scan of the directions?

==Marjorie Wilser (fond of tricksy monkeys)


On Feb 10, 2014, at 5:47 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 Normally, I can look at a pattern and have a clear idea of how flat pieces
 fit together and follow a shape, what is cut on the fold, how many to cut,
 etc. But with this one, I'm stumped. It's a tricky monkey puzzle!
 
 From the looks of the pattern text, you cut one of each piece but I can't
 see how that makes a cap. I'm hoping what I don't understand of the text
 will shed light on that.
 
 Can someone please translate the directions for me? Please? (Thanks to
 studying Spanish, I can make out some of this but not enough. And since
 it's an image, I can't just paste the text into an online translator...I
 would guess that it will take a experienced sewer's eye to translate it
 correctly.)
 
 Thank you!
 'Bella

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Re: [h-cost] 1933 hat help - French magazine pattern

[Marjorie Wilser]

Maybe the List strips attachments? It’s not there this time either.

==Marjorie Wilser (the3toad)

@gmail.com




On Feb 10, 2014, at 10:02 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hm...How strange! It is attached on the copy that came through the list and
 back to me. I wonder why it is hiding from you. Grrr.
 
 Attaching again. :)
 
 Thanks so much!
 

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks, everybody!

It's for fiction. Guy normally clueless trying to describe woman who catches 
his eye. Would a guy know the name of said garment!? He's more likely to know 
what's in it than what it's called :)

 == Marjorie Wilser 


On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:36 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

 I actually have one. Bought a decent dress at a thrift store for summer  
 wear, but it is just a little low in front, so I bought one of the knit 
 garments  with spaghetti straps. It has a shelf bra, too--remember those from 
 the 
 '70s?  And yes, my much younger co-workers call it a cami. BTW, it is also 
 VERY long,  so one could wear it with the extremely low-slung pants that 
 still seem to be in  vogue. That is one style that could go away, IMHO. Hard 
 for 
 us mature women to  find pants that sit decently at the waist.
 
 Ann Wass
 
 
 In a message dated 1/6/2014 2:06:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
 sfsh...@gmail.com writes:
 
 LOL.  This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, 
 ages 18  and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a 
 camisole  and it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a 
 layer, but a  layer that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in 
 hot weather, it  is worn alone.
 
 Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with  cut-on shoulders.

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Yes it is an age thing. And I can see your girls not wearing the tank style. 
Younger girls don't.

I've been unwilling to wear one due to needing support. Straps made for support 
look lousy under thinner straps :)

 == Marjorie

On Jan 5, 2014, at 11:05 PM, Sharon Zakhour wrote:

 LOL. This is definitely an age thing, I think. I have two daughters, ages 18 
 and 21. For years they've been calling that garment a cami or a camisole and 
 it is not an undergarment, though it is often worn as a layer, but a layer 
 that is exposed, either partly or entirely. And, in hot weather, it is worn 
 alone.
 
 Neither of my daughters will wear a tank top, with cut-on shoulders.
 
 
 On 1/5/14, 9:28 PM, Sybella wrote:
 Hm. In my opinion, a camisole (or cami) is strictly an undergarment
 regardless of modern vernacular. LOL!
 
 Tank tops can be delicate in style...I would say what the OP is describing
 would be using the correct name if she called it a tank top. One could say
 tank top with spaghetti straps, maybe.
 
 Did you see the wiki page on this? I just looked it up. Whoever wrote it
 also mentions camisole. There are pictures at the bottom of the page,
 with all the variations that fall under tank tops.
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sleeveless_shirt
 
 
 
 
 On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 8:30 PM, Sharon Zakhour sfsh...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 cami or camisole
 
 
 
 On 1/5/14, 8:27 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:
 
 Hi folks,
 
 I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about
 a popular item of modern summer clothing for women.
 
 What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of
 a tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones
 I think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm looking for here.
 
 So what's the modern name for it, please? :)
 
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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks! Thought so :)  Ok. so I have another kind of problem entirely!

 == Marjorie 

On Jan 6, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Maggie Koenig wrote:

 For what it's worth my husband has no idea what a cami even is. Brian
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:45 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thanks, everybody!
 
 It's for fiction. Guy normally clueless trying to describe woman who catches 
 his eye. Would a guy know the name of said garment!? He's more likely to 
 know what's in it than what it's called :)


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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Yep! Thanks a bunch for helping me clarify my thoughts. I guess I'm as out of 
touch as the fictional guy is snerk

 == Marjorie 

On Jan 6, 2014, at 11:55 AM, Sybella wrote:

 I doubt he'd be up on the latest fashion jargon unless he was into that.
 He'd probably say blouse, top...maybe tank. But I can't imagine he'd ever
 say camisole or cami. LOL!

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

I wonder about the skimpy part. Do young guys use the term? Maybe might say 
hot if it were skimpy. Sheesh. Information overload :)

Thanks, guys, for the fun discussion!!

 == Marjorie 

On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:49 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

 And then, again, a 25 y/o guy who just went shopping with his girlfriend just 
 might know what it was called, or at least what his girlfriend called it.  Of 
 course, he might also go with that skimpy top thing.  I don't think any guy 
 I know (I'm 63) would ever call it a blouse, but skimpy top would be 
 right up there as a good description.  Way skimpy top would be even more 
 appropriate.
 
 Ginni

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer.  He'll be amused!

 == Marjorie 

On Jan 6, 2014, at 12:58 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote:

 Ask them.  Most of us are the wrong gender and the wrong age.  My ex-husband 
 used skimpy, particularly concerning his daughters' clothing.  But then he's 
 my age.  Skimpy might be generational.

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Re: [h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

ROFL!!! Thanks for the giggle! :)

 == Marjorie 



On Jan 6, 2014, at 2:44 PM, Sybella wrote:

 I'm tempted to post a picture on my FB page asking males to state their age
 and a brief description of the top. LOL!
 
 
 On Mon, Jan 6, 2014 at 1:14 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I'll ask a guy who works at the cat shelter where I volunteer.  He'll be
 amused!
 
 == Marjorie

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[h-cost] t-top? Tank?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi folks,

I rarely wear sleeveless tops myself, so I'm waaay out of the loop about a 
popular item of modern summer clothing for women.

What IS the little knit top with tiny straps called, nowadays? I think of a 
tank as sleeveless with wider shoulder straps. The skinny-strapped ones I 
think of as a chemise, but that isn't the name I'm looking for here.

So what's the modern name for it, please? :)

 == Marjorie Wilser 

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






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Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians

[Marjorie wilser]

Yeek. Just looked at the price! How familiar are you with the company (not 
Amazon DG, the pattern produceer)?

==Marjorie (swooning from sticker shock)

Sent from my amazing iPad

On Oct 24, 2013, at 5:51 PM, Kathleen Norvell app...@aol.com wrote:

 
 This was the pattern I was thinking of when I mentioned Aesthetic Dress -- 
 Artistic Reform is another term for it. I did not know if the pattern was 
 still available. It's a beautiful, authentic Victorian gown. 
 
 Kathleen
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com
 To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
 Sent: Thu, Oct 24, 2013 10:08 am
 Subject: Re: [h-cost] Boning and corsets for musicians
 
 
 Unboned corsets work fabulously.  I use them for riding.  Also, you might
 want to look into this:
 http://www.amazondrygoods.com/products/la-mode-bagatelle-victorian-artistic-reform-tea-gowns.html

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Re: [h-cost] measurement chart

[Marjorie wilser]

here's one:
http://www.amspecinc.com/fitting/index.html

I did Google advanced search: torso, and added in g*exact phrase* fill in 
your measurements

But better result when I removed torso from the equation and used only the 
exact phrase:
http://www.timeaftertimedesigns.com/Measurement%20Chart%20for%20Women.pdf

There are other results, lots of them, but the 2nd is the best I found in a 
rather brief effort.

==Marjorie

Sent from my amazing iPad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 5:27 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

 I am going to be making a Regency outfit for a friend who lives on the other 
 side of the country. Since there won't be any chance to fit it, I need to get 
 the most exhaustive set of measurements possible.
 
 Can any suggest a site that has a fill-in measurement chart that is really 
 detailed, that I can send her? Like, not just bust and waist measurement, but 
 bust and then under-bust, upper arm circumference, side-seam (underarm to 
 waist), shoulder to shoulder across the back, and so on. The sort of 
 measurements you'd need to construct a detailed garment with. I've tried 
 searching but apparently I'm not using the right search terms. I keep getting 
 charts with sizing on them, not blanks to be filled in.
 
 Thanks!
 Julie
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Re: [h-cost] OT hairdressing, Dineh

[Marjorie Wilser]

Chimene,

Great shots, and they explain a lot! I always wondered how they did  
that :)  But you made me hungry for fry bread (in the later pics). . .  
I can't speak for Viking times, but sure enjoyed the pics.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW



On Jul 24, 2013, at 1:35 AM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

This is very OT for 12thC, but I've always wondered how it was  
done... Navajo women's traditional double-bun hair-dress.  I think  
I'm going to ponder for a while if a similar technique might be of  
assistance in achieving the Viking women's ritual knot hair-dress,  
which, admittedly, is also OP for this list !?  In any case, it is a  
marvelous demonstration of how to create and hold a fairly complex  
hair construction using non-modern tools.


anyway, a Native lady on another of my lists just posted about a  
zillion photos from a recent large family reunion, among them a very  
step-by-step demonstration.


Now, there are several clusters of hairdress photos scattered among  
pics of other activities, starting about halfway down this page,  
look for the little girl in the pink and yellow top, with white yarn  
holding her hair

http://www.flickr.com/photos/neeta_lind/sets/72157634727656803/page2/



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Re: [h-cost] The White Queen

[Marjorie Wilser]

Kate,

It's funny. . . you could say the same thing about modern productions  
of Victorian and Georgian fashions. Bareheaded women (and gloveless,  
too! the horror!) running around outside, neither properly coifed nor  
hatted. With so much emphasis on getting the clothing right, why not  
the hair/hat styles!!


	 == Marjorie Wilser (hoping very much that we get The White Queen  
over here. . . someday)


=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Jul 24, 2013, at 7:55 AM, Kate Bunting wrote:


As the list seems very quiet at the moment, I thought I'd ask what UK
members who know about the Middle Ages think of the costumes in The  
White
Queen? (It's a series based on 3 of Philippa Gregory's novels  
currently

running on the BBC.)

I know little about mediaeval costume, but my impression is that  
they have
fallen into the same trap as the designers for The Tudors - the  
women

show too much hair and not enough linen. Only a few older women wear
headdresses. I assume this is supposed to make the leading ladies more
attractive to modern eyes.

Kate Bunting
Retired librarian  17th century reenactor.
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Re: [h-cost] RE; Where to buy lucet?

[Marjorie Wilser]

So glad your post reminded me of Wm Booth-- I like their linen thread  
for luceting.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Jun 21, 2013, at 7:33 PM, Rebecca wrote:

Thank you all! I finally remembered where I bought mine (William  
Booth,

Draper)
http://www.wmboothdraper.com/

I was looking for the non-handled type, and really liked the one I  
got from

them a few years ago at Military History Fest.


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Re: [h-cost] RE; Where to buy lucet?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Minor comment on lucets in general. I find the handled ones less easy  
to carry around, because they don't fit into a needlework bag as well.  
I think the main thing the handle is good for is spinning the lucet  
around while working, but I've never missed having one and don't think  
it a necessary feature.


Just a remark :)


PS if you're just learning-- be sure not to pull your threads too  
tightly! Unless they are perfectly spun, they will cause you grief if  
you work too tight (as I do!). It helps to learn how to pull up just  
enough, but not too much. This takes a bit of practice with the  
desired thread. I've learned from bitter, hand-numbing experience not  
to lucet so tightly.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jun 18, 2013, at 11:30 AM, Mary LaVenture wrote:



Hedgehog Handworks have beautiful hand made lucets

www.hedgehoghandworks.com

http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/tools_braiding.php



Mary LaVenture
Costume Director
Pageant of the Masters









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Re: [h-cost] stains on stored linen?

[Marjorie Wilser]

For fruit stains, like that of the raspberry, I find spray-and wash  
the best thing. It actually fades the stain before it hits the washing  
machine. Berry stains will indeed turn a nasty shade of gray if washed  
in ordinary soap without pre-treatment.


Don't know about your random stains. Might they have been in the cloth  
as produced?


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jun 15, 2013, at 8:27 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

We're in the process of sorting, washing-musty-out, and re-packing  
the fabric stash and have discovered about 5 pieces of mostly-white,  
mostly-linen that has a FEW, random pink and/or blue-y/black-y  
spots. We've only really noticed this tonite. Doesn't seem to be  
occuring on the white cottons (I think).


I'm planning to pre-treat with Clorox2, and then cold-launder with  
Clorox2. Have just had real good luck with that with a cotton bra  
that got a raspberry down it all day 8-) which stain started  
pinkish, and then turned sort of blackberry dark blue/black as I  
tried to wash it out.


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Re: [h-cost] Sewing Machines

[Marjorie Wilser]

Gosh. I'd just be happy to find a Pfaff _dealer_ near me.  :)  I  
dearly love my old 7550, would love to have a 7570, and I treasure my  
Singer 221.


Somehow, even though I own two treadle machines, I find treadling them  
difficult. Odd, really, because I have two treadle printing presses  
that I have no problem at all treadling!


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

On Apr 2, 2013, at 2:02 PM, Simone Bryan wrote:


  My Pfaff 7570 while
outdated could sew 8 think rolls of canvas and then smiled at me!

I am pondering how I can get the new Pfaff that is all PURPLE!!



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Re: [h-cost] what is everyone working on?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Finally finished hemming a neck kerchief for my colonial. That's one  
long hem, but I insisted on doing a hand hem.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:07 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

Two Regency era tailcoats--one a linen check, for a June event in  
Virginia, and one navy blue wool, just because every man needs one  
in his wardrobe.



Want to get started on a red velvet reticule for a reenactment in  
May. Then to finish the accessories for my red and yellow gown-- 
finish the belt, decorate a bonnet with the ribbon I bought in  
England, and make a neck handkerchief--I actually do not own a plain  
white one and have decided I need one.


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Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

[Marjorie Wilser]

Polyester. Ick. But it's grown up in the world since the bulletproof  
variety, and SOME things in poly are actually decent feeling.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:29 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and  
I have to say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently  
set.



Ann Wass



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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)

[Marjorie Wilser]

And here I thought this list was for *costumers* and not consumers and  
destroyers.


 == Marjorie Wilser



On Mar 30, 2013, at 7:40 AM, Lavolta Press wrote:



But apparently you don't even collect antique textiles yourself. You  
are certainly welcome to do so, but are in no position to dictate to  
others regarding it.


 Rather than taking that dress in or out, why not check out the  
seam lines and see if you can recreate a pattern from it?


Because I don't want to.


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Re: [h-cost] Easy way to get a hand sewn T-Tunic (Lavolta Press)

[Marjorie Wilser]

Dear Isabella,

Likewise. I am sure. Brava! for saying so out loud.

 == Marjorie Wilser


On Mar 29, 2013, at 1:25 PM, . . wrote:

I am HORRIFIED at the idea of using an antique piece of our cultural  
history as something to wear; let alone cut it and dye it!  Would  
you buy a slightly rundown Victorian house and tear it up to sell  
off the pieces and remake it into a modern home?   Of course not!   
Most countries now have regulations to protect these homes as part  
of our cultural heritage.  It's sad that we do not have similar laws  
to protect against the destruction of antiquities as is being  
described here.  I'm completly revolted at the idea of tearing up a  
garmet that is not shreaded, not in rags, just to make a t-tunic?
You can make a t-tunic out of good old linen for far less than $40  
if watch for coupons and stash reduction sales.   There is no reason  
whatsoever to destroy a piece of history just to get something to  
wear.


-Isabella


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Re: [h-cost] bifurcated garments

[Marjorie Wilser]

I agree, Maggie, if my conservative  proper ancestors wore'em so  
early. . .


Perhaps the shocking aspect we hear so much about in fashion history  
texts was when *fashionable* women wore them! Perhaps little worn by  
the anonymous classes was considered shocking: only in the upper and  
wanna-be classes.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Mar 22, 2013, at 1:37 AM, Maggie Koenig wrote:

I'm starting to wonder if our ancestors found the idea of women in  
pants as shocking as we think they did. I keep finding examples of  
women wearing them in the 19th century. The bloomer costume as  
reform dress, the bathing costumes, women in camping and hiking  
situations, women on the westward trek, female mine workers in Wales  
and other parts of Europe, utopian societies, fishwives in England  
and female acrobatic performers. I have a feeling the more people  
dig the more we will find out that there were just certain  
situations where no one found it out of place to see a woman in pants.


I will grant you that in none of these cases are the women putting  
on a pair of men's pants. They are wearing pants with a unique style  
and construction.


 Maggie Koenig

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 21, 2013, at 11:09 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com  
wrote:


I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great  
grandmother and her daughters wore bifurcated garments on the  
Oregon Trail-- in 1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer was named as  
their creator. One of the older daughters wrote about their  
experience and how the garments made walking the trail much easier  
than it would have been in skirts. The stuff of family legend.


I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced  
her to make a radical fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and  
her husband had floated down the Allegheny on a raft; she mentions  
having to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind,  
and how her skirts switched between her ankles, making walking  
almost impossible.


G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian  
missionary- I was amazed that such a character would make use of  
what was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps she thought  
nobody she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had  
two wagons and did not join a train.


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[h-cost] bifurcated garments

[Marjorie Wilser]

I was astounded to learn that my very proper great-great grandmother  
and her daughters wore bifurcated garments on the Oregon Trail-- in  
1852, very soon after Amelia Bloomer was named as their creator. One  
of the older daughters wrote about their experience and how the  
garments made walking the trail much easier than it would have been in  
skirts. The stuff of family legend.


I suspect G-g-grandmother's prior pioneering experience influenced her  
to make a radical fashion choice for Oregon. In 1836 she and her  
husband had floated down the Allegheny on a raft; she mentions having  
to traipse around a portage through weeds and wet with wind, and how  
her skirts switched between her ankles, making walking almost  
impossible.


G-g-grandmother was the wife of a preacher and Presbyterian  
missionary- I was amazed that such a character would make use of what  
was then rather a controversial garment. Perhaps she thought nobody  
she knew would see her! -- they and their large family had two wagons  
and did not join a train.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






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Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Marjorie Wilser]

Astrida,

The link didn't work for me, and I'm sure it should have. Odd.

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Mar 14, 2013, at 11:02 AM, Astrida Schaeffer wrote:


Hi everyone--

The Victorian embellishments book is finally well on its way through  
the design process, and I have a date (end of April) for it to get  
to the printer. I'm expecting copies in hand by mid-June.


Pre-orders (and many more images of the exhibition) are now at www.schaeffferarts.com/embellishments 
. All pre-orders go toward printing costs! I'll also be posting a  
Kickstarter, hopefully tomorrow, with the same goal: raising  
printing money.


If you pre-order from my site, it will be $30 plus shipping until  
mid-May; if you go through Kickstarter there will be many options  
with pledges of $50 or more including a book as well as other goodies.


Thanks for all the interest!

Astrida Schaeffer
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Re: [h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks, Kim!

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Mar 14, 2013, at 3:52 PM, Kim Baird wrote:


Here is the correctly spelled URL:
http://www.schaefferarts.com/embellishments/




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Re: [h-cost] Italian Widow's Dress?

[Marjorie Wilser]

To me, Seton's headgear appears to be a somewhat wilted version of the  
mob cap, not stiffened like a bonnet, or really much shaped like one.  
Not a poke bonnet because it doesn't hide her face.


 == Marjorie

On Feb 27, 2013, at 4:45 PM, Monica Spence wrote:

I went to school at Seton Hill College (now Seton Hill University).  
It is

run by Mother's Seton's Sisters of Charity, so I've seen the bonnet up
close. It reminds me of the poke bonnet that became popular in the  
Romantic
and Crinoline periods. A bit early, I know, but just a thought that  
it may

be an early version of the style.

Monica Spence


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Re: [h-cost] checking on a merchant

[Marjorie Wilser]

I have shoe fitting issues, and called them before ordering. I  
described my issues, and they suggested that for me, a half-size up  
would be the best. I spent about 3 weeks wearing them half-days and  
then full days before their first event, but they were comfortable  
right away.


The only reason I spent so long getting used to them is that they were  
colonial, and I usually don't wear heels. So it was more getting my  
feet used to the concept than breaking in a shoe.


They are nice to work with, too.

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Feb 2, 2013, at 2:44 PM, llwa...@juno.com wrote:

I'm getting ready for the Costume Con historical masquerade, and it  
looks like a shoe style from Fugawee (http://www.fugawee.com/ 
index.htm) will be very close to what I need.  However, I don't know  
anyone locally who's dealt with them.  What are their shoes like?   
Do sizes run small/large, or pretty close to standard commercial  
sizes?  (The shoes I'm looking at are straight-last, if it  
matters.)  Any problems with orders?


Leah

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[h-cost] Another 19th c wowie

[Marjorie Wilser]

This time, it's a book. And what a book.

Garvarni's Women In Lace http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/http/wwwbooktrystcom/~3/ZnI2WzWN5Iw/garvarnis-women-in-lace.html?utm_source=feedburnerutm_medium=email 



 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






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Re: [h-cost] Victorian Embellishments exhibit

[Marjorie Wilser]

Nice eye candy!

Went to the publisher's website. It's all about digital publication  
through them. No info on how to buy an actual book. Baffling.


 == Marjorie Wilser (wrong side of the continent)

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jan 28, 2013, at 7:51 AM, Anne Murphy wrote:


The University of New Hampshire has an exhibit - Embellishments:
Constructing Victorian Detail

http://www.izaak.unh.edu/museum/index.htm

The picture on the page *rotates*, so you can see every detail of this
incredible, asymetrical gown...

Anne
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[h-cost] University of NH exhibit

[Marjorie Wilser]

The nice rotating costume just posted (sorry, I nuked the original  
email), I found out, is the only thing currently available.


I clicked on the weblink and got a nice answer from the guest curator.  
The book's purported publisher reneged, so they're shopping for  
another publisher. Book is not out yet, but she's adding names to a  
list for people interested.


I think it will be worth the wait.

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






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Re: [h-cost] Jane Austen in Toronto April 19-21 (Canada)

[Marjorie Wilser]

If anybody wants to understand printing of the era better, let me  
know. I volunteer in 2 printing museums and have presses scattered  
liberally about my premesis (print shop, garage, living room).


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW




On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:16 AM, Christine wrote:

I'm not involved in this, just got the e-mail about it, but thought  
it might be of interest to some of you.


The website http://danceweavers.ca/janeausten.html has a link  
partway down called A Weekend with Jane Austen which is a pdf -  
didn't want to use that directly in case the list might bounce it.


Christine
-
The theme for April 19-21st overall will be Love and Technology, so
many of the planned activities will connect to that theme in some way.
Many elements of the progamme are already in place, but more will be
added soon.

A few highlights:

Print technology in the time of Austen (Mackenzie House Museum Print  
Shop)

Print: the dawning of celebrity culture and the popular press
Beyond Jack Tar and Polly Portsmouth: Relationships at Sea by naval
historian Victor Suthren, organizer of last year's Sailors on the
Lakes 1812 bicentennial launch
Lecture on Jane Austen by Professor Robert Morrison, back by popular  
demand

Millinery and the art of flirting
Etiquette, class, and the schooling of the body in Regency England
Marriage and the courtesans - a tangled web
Regency Fashion Show by Charlene Roberts
Georgian Food  Historical Sites  Book Table

and much more!

Keep tuned for regular updates.

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Re: [h-cost] 1000th Post On All The Pretty Dresses

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi there Isabella,

What a great idea-- those are indeed ephemeral and will disappear  
into-- buyers wearing them, possibly shudder. So you are recording  
the doomed before they go away forever. One can only hope the buyers  
might be responsible collectors rather than consumer/wearers.


I will confess to disappointment when I clicked on one of the earlier  
images to find Pinterest expects me to join it to see them. I'm so  
tired of joining sites and logging in with secure passwords I could  
scream, so I sadly did not join and get to see the lovelies up close.


I notice you let the sellers speak for themselves. Might you be adding  
comments later on? Some sellers of these kinds of things are (to put  
it kindly) rather ignorant of antique sewing techniques and styles ;)


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jan 9, 2013, at 7:23 AM, . . wrote:


Hello All!

I know some of you know of my blog but I'm sure there are some that  
don't.  I've been collecting images from auction sites like ebay  
where vintage and antique clothing pop up but disappear after a  
couple of months.  I wanted to keep a record of the everyday  
clothing.  I've just posted my 1000th post to the blog.  This one is  
of a lovely uncut men's Rococo waistcoat that was up on ebay  
recently.  http://extantgowns.blogspot.com/2013/01/for-my-1000th-post-i-present.html 
  Feel free to take a look.  I have the blog set up so it should be  
easy to repost any items you happen to like to pinterest.


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Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Great looking blog, thanks!

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Jan 7, 2013, at 12:28 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:


I just found out about this:
http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/
from a friend's post on Facebook. I'm going to try it--a fortnightly  
sewing challenge. So far, it is spurring me on to actually make some  
long-contemplated things, use stuff in my stash, and try a couple of  
new things, too. We'll see if I make it through the year, though.



Ann Wass



-Original Message-
From: Pierre  Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 6, 2013 7:48 pm
Subject: [h-cost] Is anyone there?


We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that  
busy?


Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get  
this year?


I got Steampunk Fashion by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe.  Also a
bunch of cooking gadgets.

Sandy

International Costumers' Guild Archivist

http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php

Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed.

Achemdro'hm
The Illusion of Historical Fact
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda

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Re: [h-cost] Is anyone there?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Alas. Got zero, unless you count a gift certificate at a quilting  
store. Not bad-- but I went, and found fabric for everybody but me :)   
So the gift part will wait til I find something for  _me_.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

On Jan 4, 2013, at 9:16 PM, Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:

We've seen no messages since December 18 - is everyone really that  
busy?


Typical post-holiday question - What costume goodies did you get  
this year?


I got Steampunk Fashion by Spurgeon Vaughan Ratcliffe.  Also a  
bunch of cooking gadgets.



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Re: [h-cost] Butterick 5832

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thoughts: not as early as 1837, because earlier sleeve fullness fell  
to the elbow and only later (42-3) disappeared; wider bertha looks  
better to me, but my reading suggests somewhere in between for depth.  
Note collection below shows an asymmetric bertha in one view. Not  
quite as asymmetric as the pattern, but still.


Good collection of images here
http://www.darvillsrareprints.com/Ladies%20Fashions%201840.htm

 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Dec 16, 2012, at 8:58 PM, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

New-ish pattern from Butterick, day dress 1837-1840 (mislabeled in  
the pattern book as Civil War).

http://butterick.mccall.com/b5832-products-27980.php?page_id=147

Everything looks spot on to me, except for the oddly asymmetrical  
bodice. That would have to be changed, but I can't decide if the  
pleated bertha should be the wide right side or the narrow left  
side. Any thoughts or comments?

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] A hoopskirt for your entertainment

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi Laura,

Period what? Plastic box included?

I agree- pretty cool, but I'm highly doubtful as it isn't really full  
enough for the period the seller pretends to represent.


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW






On Dec 12, 2012, at 12:11 PM, Laura Rubin wrote:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Hoop-Skirt-/230894469819

This was posted recently in a group I'm in by someone who's pretty
convinced that it's period. Plastic through and through but still
entertaining! I love the collapsing struts and the hatbox you can  
store it

in.

-Laura
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Re: [h-cost] Chinese peasant costumes... help?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Any chance of a link to the original? There's an iPad app I want to  
explore. . .  ;) This link goes to a photo, not a page (the link which  
shows on the photo isn't clickable).


 == Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
   http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW


On Dec 3, 2012, at 3:55 AM, WorkroomButtons.com wrote:


Thanks!  I think I found the statue you're describing:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PGdp__poAtM/T-LYMC-WgCI/L8Q/Nld5-rVqp7c/s1600/scan0004.jpg

You're right -- pretty garish... One does wonder what kind of dyes  
might have been used by Chinese peasants.  This may be irrelevant,  
but I read that European peasants' clothing was actually quite  
colorful, and that they frequently re-dyed them as the natural  
colors tended to fade.


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Re: [h-cost] Amazon Drygoods

[Marjorie Wilser]

Good to hear it, thanks!

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Nov 19, 2012, at 8:26 PM, Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:


They're bck!



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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

Thanks, Wanda! I was lucky in that the outfit matches itself: scarf,  
tunic  skirt, which is amazing since it is long enough for me, and I  
am tall.


I have a choli cut out to go with lovely sari that came unaccompanied,  
but have not made it. I took the pattern from a thrift store find  
which (again, amazingly) fit my actual bust, even though it was worn  
out and barely usable when found.


I found my first sari in the curtain department of the thrift store.  
They soon learned better!


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Nov 3, 2012, at 9:30 PM, Wanda Pease wrote:

I tend to find these at my local Thrift stores too.  Frequently the  
pants have gotten separated from the rest of the outfit (found one  
pair in pajamas!).  Sometimes they never show, but the tunic is long  
and full enough that I wear it as a dress and scarf anyway.  Since I  
no longer have to conform, i. e. I can be excentric, I can wear it  
to work and get compliments from the young folk.  I'd say you have  
parts.of a Salwar/Kameze outfit.
   You could make pants for it.  The pants don't always match in  
color says my friend from Pakistan.

Wanda


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[h-cost] Umm. . . please say something historical?

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi guys,

Technology is wonderful. . . and for theatre costuming I'm sure it's a  
timesaver. But I'm laboring under the illusion that this is a  
historical costuming list, and wearying of machine embroidery (begging  
all your pardon. . . 'tis true).


Please somebody, talk historical costume?

==Marjorie Wilser





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[h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

In the interest of historical costume, modern version:

I have a great thrift store outfit I purchased some years ago in the  
South Bay (San Jose) area. It looks like a typical woman's Punjabi  
suit consisting of tunic, shawl, and pants-- except there are no  
pants. There is a long, even on me (5'10) flowing skirt. It's  
obviously dressy attire. There is gold (?) bullion embroidery on the  
front of the tunic, and tiny gold seed beads stitched all over the  
skirt and shawl (wider than the typical Paloo of a sari). Fabric is an  
abstract print in warm brown and golden tones on a lightweight silk.  
Lined throughout. It was a very lucky find for me because I am tall  
and had only to steal fabric from a seam to add a bust room gusset  
under the arms.


Anybody care to hazard a guess as to this outfit's origins? I'm  
definitely voting for the Punjab because of the tunic, and thinking  
perhaps it might be some very formal outfit due to the heavy  
embroidery. I don't think this list takes attachments, but I do have a  
pic to post. . . somewhere, or send to whomever is interested.


Thanks!

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/

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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

Lauren, Thanks for the link!!

Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and  
not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic*  
and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli.


I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm  
unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :)


==Marjorie Wilser

On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:




It's a lehenga choli.

http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/



The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli  
is often used for bridal wear.




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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

Teena,

That makes entire sense to me. The SF Bay area is rife with various  
ethnicities. Many thanks for digging around in my behalf! I haven't  
been home since this morning and getting home to this news is really  
cool!


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Nov 1, 2012, at 9:40 AM, Beteena Paradise wrote:

I found something. Someone on a forum or something like that was  
asking about a Kameez Lengha (sometimes spelled lahenga) which is  
the tunic with the skirt. I guess Lengha means skirt. Anyway, they  
were saying that this was the Pakistani style as opposed to the  
lengha choli which is more of an Indian style. So maybe your outfit  
is Pakastani?


Teena


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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

And did you look under the jewelry tab?? whoa! :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Nov 1, 2012, at 8:25 AM, Marion McNealy wrote:


And here are some other ones, http://www.utsavfashion.com/lehenga


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Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

[Marjorie Wilser]

Woweee! :) Thanks!

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Nov 1, 2012, at 10:03 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:




Hmm. This place calls them long choli lehenga:

http://www.cbazaar.com/readymade-lehenga/long_choli_lehenga-specialty/c-sb.html





- Original Message -


From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 12:15:43 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Indian? Pakistani? Not sure what it is.

Lauren, Thanks for the link!!

Not a lehenga choli like those pictures. No. The top is a *tunic* and
not a choli. It's as if you were to take a Punjabi pantsuit *tunic*
and place it over the long lovely skirt from the Lehenga choli.

I'll find time later to post the pic of me wearing it. I'm
unforgivably paleface, but the outfit is nice :)

==Marjorie Wilser

On Nov 1, 2012, at 7:36 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:




It's a lehenga choli.

http://www.exoticindiaart.com/textiles/SalwarKameez/lehenga/



The Punjabi pantsuit is called a salwar kameez. The lehenga choli
is often used for bridal wear.



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Re: [h-cost] OT OP greasy-strings hairdressing???

[Marjorie Wilser]

hmm. . . the new wet dreds?

Honestly, I don't know. I wonder sometimes about the heavy teenage  
girls I see wearing skintight hip hugging skirts, bare belly rolls  
over the top of them, and too-short tops.


Maybe it falls under whatever was she thinking? baffling, indeed.

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Oct 8, 2012, at 10:10 PM, Patricia Dunham wrote:

Watching news tonight, noticed, again, some woman on national TV, a  
national-level government consultant (!) -- her hair looks like a  
wet string mop.

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Re: [h-cost] OT OP greasy-strings hairdressing???

[Marjorie Wilser]

I know. . . they will hate their yearbooks, that's for sure :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 9, 2012, at 6:20 PM, Data-Samtak Susan wrote:



On Oct 9, 12, at 3:12 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote:

heavy teenage girls I see wearing skintight hip hugging skirts,  
bare belly rolls over the top of them, and too-short tops.


Oh but they are in style    And don't make any negative  
comments because you will ruin their self esteem.  Knowledge  
gained from 30 years as a High School classroom teacher.  The sights  
I saw



Susan
NJ
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Re: [h-cost] Question for experienced sempsters

[Marjorie Wilser]

what Cin says ;) (she saved me the trubble of typing it all!)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 8, 2012, at 3:16 PM, Cin wrote:


Some things to think about for your debugging:
Did you put in all the facings, linings  interfacings required?
Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer  
on zorch?

Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction?
Is your model wearing period unmentionables and, if corsetting, is she
corseting to the same dimensions each time?
Got pictures inside  out?

Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not
particularly high quality.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com


On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 11:47 AM, Julie jtknit...@gmail.com wrote:
I have a mystery that I'd like some insight on.  I've spoken in  
person to

all the costumers I know and all are baffled.

I made a dress for my daughter from decent quilting cottons from  
Joanne's.
It has a tight fitted bodice with boning.  The dress stretched so I  
took it
in.  It stretched some more so I put elastic in key areas.  It  
stretched

some more.

Yesterday just for giggles I tried it on.  It fits.  I'm  
substantially

larger than my daughter (maybe 2 sizes).  What the heck?

The dress will fit her immediately after washing  drying but begins
stretching back out within an hour or so.
Does anyone have any ideas?  The fabric was washed  dried before I  
cut it

out.

This is very discouraging.  I worked hard to make it fit her just  
right.
Now it looks like I'm a lousy sempster.  But at least I guess I get  
a dress

out of it.

Julie

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Re: [h-cost] Hello again!

[Marjorie Wilser]

Shinrone, but stalled due to lack of opportunity!

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Oct 2, 2012, at 10:57 AM, Sybella wrote:


Thank you for the responses, Marjorie and Kate!

That's a bummer about Teddy. Maybe I'll have to dig out his address  
and

send him a letter, the kind with postage. :)

I've been researching and studying kirtles lately, the kind with grand
assiette sleeves, like the Moy. What are you all working on?

Sybella



On Tue, Oct 2, 2012 at 5:48 AM, Kate Bunting  
k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.ukwrote:



Hello, Sybella,

The list is still active, but not as busy as it used to be. Teddy  
left a
few years ago because his employer objected to his using his work  
email to
subscribe, and a lot of the other old names seem to have  
disappeared. Glad

to see you back!

Kate Bunting
Librarian  17th century reenactor
Derby, UK


_
The University of Derby has a published policy regarding email and
reserves the right to monitor email traffic. If you believe this  
email was

sent to you in error, please notify the sender and delete this email.
Please direct any concerns to info...@derby.ac.uk.
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Re: [h-cost] Hello, again!

[Marjorie Wilser]

It's active :)  I was here years ago, and only about a year ago came  
back.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Sep 30, 2012, at 7:11 PM, Sybella wrote:

Hi all!! I used to be a regular in this group, some years past. I've  
just
resubscribed but I'm not sure if it's still active anymore.  
Hopefully, I

will see some familiar faces. (Teddy, Drea, Margo...?)

Sybella


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[h-cost] Recent double post from Annefoote

[Marjorie Wilser]

Looks like a virus/spam/suspicious.

Anne, if you're reading the list, please comment, or at least check  
your computer for issues. Hope it's ok.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




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Re: [h-cost] 1849 evening dress

[Marjorie Wilser]

Hi Lauren,

A center front seam is optional. I have seen a few, but mostly the CFs  
are seamless, since the princess seamlines on either side of center  
front do the work of shaping. It's not atypical to have two almost  
parallel (curved, not straight) seams. the CF piece is usually very  
narrow at center front waist.


There would never be NO sleeves under the berthe, if that's what  
you're asking :)


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Sep 22, 2012, at 12:23 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:

My questions for today are: Is a center seam down the bodice front  
typical for evening dresses in 1849? Does it introduce some bias- 
give that is essential to the smooth shape?

And: Would there be short sleeves on the bodice under the berthe?


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Re: [h-cost] Victorian quilled fabric trim

[Marjorie Wilser]

Certifiable, Lauren. Certifiable. :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 20, 2012, at 10:21 PM, Lauren Walker wrote (in part):


Hi,
Just wanted to mention that I'm now trying to do a version of  
Victorian quilled fabric trim on a 1/12 scale evening dress.


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Re: [h-cost] Hair and Reenacting

[Marjorie Wilser]

Sharon,

You've already gotten some good advice on the subject. In case you  
decide to go with a wig, fall, or other concoction, I'll add a wee bit  
here:


The proper and fitting answer to the question Is that your own hair?  
is Yes, of course. It's yours. You bought and paid for it, didn't  
you? :)


If you prefer not to use one, never fear: you've been ill, and your  
hair was shorn to prevent its robbing you of your strength to recover  
(a common practice).


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 12, 2012, at 8:56 PM, Sharon Phillips wrote:

I would like some ideas on hair pieces and wigs as I now have short  
hair again and I have no real idea myself. My hair is maybe a  
centimetre or two long at the back and for part of the sides and,  
about 7 cm or 8 cm long on the top part. I also have dark red henna  
in it so all in all my hair looks modern.

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Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown

[Marjorie Wilser]

thought so! :)

==Marjorie Wilser (pray pardon my smuggitude, but it's my first right  
answer today)


On Sep 7, 2012, at 8:39 AM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote (in part):


Thank you, everyone. I found this _description_ of the gown:

Her Inaugural Ball gown was typically American in fabric and  
design. The heavy silver-gray silk and brocade was woven  
especially for her. Four front panels have an insertion of apricot  
satin veiled with lace. The collar and trimmings are of silver and  
gold band fringe.



Which calls the apricot satin parts insertion -- reinforcing the  
idea that they're between, not under, the brocade.




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Re: [h-cost] Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown

[Marjorie Wilser]

My take is that the panels are between the brocade panels. But that's  
just from observing the pics, which are disappointingly small.  
Floating brocade panels over pleats seem out of place in that era of  
major construction/engineering in fashion.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 6, 2012, at 9:01 AM, Lauren Walker wrote (in part):


Hi,
Has anyone here seen Caroline Harrison's inaugural gown in person or  
close up?

(here's a measly picture of it)
http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object.cfm?key=35objkey=47
(here's an article about restoring it with a slightly different angle)
http://americanhistory.si.edu/news/factsheet.cfm?key=30newskey=595

I am trying to figure out if the underskirt is pleated beneath the  
brocade panels, or if it is only pleated between them.
Also if the back panel (supporting the bustle) is stitched to the  
brocade panels on each side or not.


The style is not unique to Mrs. Harrison -- there's a fashion plate  
from June of 1889 showing a gown that's got the same kind of brocade  
panels and intervening pleats (though no bustle, and a sleeveless  
bodice). So any knowledge about the style in general would be  
helpful, too.


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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Marjorie Wilser]

Fran,

The ruffler foot is great; it can make series of tucks so quickly. I  
was astounded by the price Bernina asks for it (considering it was  
invented over 100 years ago) but it's an essential tool for costuming.  
Imagine how happy your petticoats will be.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Sep 4, 2012, at 1:49 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:



I asked a local store to order the Bernina 1008--they only had one  
and they just sold it.  It will arrive in about a week. I am  
thinking of getting the ruffler foot in addition to the basic set of  
feet, so I can make Victorian trimmings faster.  Anyone have  
anything else to recommend where a special foot is really useful, in  
terms of historic costuming? I have never  been a foot collector. I  
am open to the idea, but many of the Bernina feet basically seem  
designed to help you sew in more precise lines.  Precise sewing is  
great but I'd rather do it without spending  on lots of special  
feet.


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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Marjorie Wilser]

I would buy my same machine, actually: Pfaff 7550. Computerized, but  
does not interfere with my desires. Fits all of your specs. I bought  
it as a demo machine in. . .. well, probably 1994. It's a workhorse. I  
would not hesitate to buy a used one. The 7570 was its replacement  
model, but it was more highly computerized and nobody is selling any-  
that's how good they were.


It's been tuned up maybe twice in 18 years. I can find parts, but  
haven't needed to. I bought the essential add-ons when it was new  
(tucker, for instance: it works with the differential feed). And I  
LOVE the build-in walking foot.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Sep 2, 2012, at 3:52 PM, Lavolta Press wrote:

I do not want a serger, or an embroidery machine.  I want a machine  
with the following features:


* Metal body
* Durability
* Infrequent need for service
* Not quirky
* Really good straight stitch
* Zigzag capability
* Easy buttonholes
* Ability to sew both light and heavy fabrics easily, including  
crossing seams

* Free arm or narrow bed? so I can sew sleeves easily
* Probably the ability to lower the feed dogs
* Mechanical machine, except I'm confused about the term. Even the  
mechanical machines (new not vintage) clearly have some  
computerization

* A machine that doesn't try to make my decisions for me!
* Probably a new machine, since I don't want to inherit someone  
else's problems and want to be able to get parts easily
* Good track records.  I have bought two expensive machines (over  
time) that were supposedly good machines from reputable  
manufacturers, yet they turned out to be a chronic PITA


I am considering the Bernina 1008, since as far as I can tell the  
1015 is no longer made. But clearly other manufacturers are also  
making mechanical machines.


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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Marjorie Wilser]

I'm amazed. . . the Kenmore was my mother's machine which I learned to  
hate -- literally chewed up anything with a soft hand, and refused  
crossed seams completely.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Sep 2, 2012, at 4:29 PM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

Fran, I am still singing the wonders of a Kenmore 158: series.  
Replaced my Beloved of over 30 years with a Pfaff Jeans and satin.  
The pfaff really has lived up to its hype and does not require a  
transition period between fibers...just like the Kenmore of the  
'70s. But for rugged costume mileage, it was always at MY beck and  
call. Picked up a free arm last month on e-Bay that never saw much  
sewing even though it was advertised as used. While searching, came  
across a number of them New and some with cases for about $200. My  
original one (1972) had key cams that I seldom used...but I love the  
button-holer, also with keys Great when you need to make dozens!


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Re: [h-cost] Advice on new sewing machine

[Marjorie Wilser]

Nope, the vertical bobbin kind, all metal, with cams for special  
stitches (anything but straight). Probably predates yours by 5 - 10  
years. Still sews, but don't challenge it with anything but normal  
fabric for the 50s. (cottons, wools, NO polys or stretch).


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 3, 2012, at 10:11 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:

Was it the drop in bobbin kind...terrible! What?I really loved was  
the ability to sew wool-geogette-denium,all grads of cotton,  
velveteen etc without throwing a hissyfit. The sales demo even added  
leather and a piece of Balsa wood! I purchased it about the time the  
invisable zipper was coming to use. The steel regular zipperfoot  
beat the accommodatorwith great ease. I came to really appreciate my  
all metal model after using one of my mother's new and Approved  
light weights with plastic gears!!!?


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Re: [h-cost] Techshop quilting, etc

[Marjorie Wilser]

And I could only dream they'd ever bother with Santa Barbara. . . it's  
too small. sob


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 3, 2012, at 11:35 AM, Cin wrote:


You're right, that's pretty much the charm of the place, that  it's a
clubhouse for powertool users.  I can be found at San Jose  Menlo
Park Techshops.
They're planning on expanding countrywide, including Raleigh-Durham 
Austin, I think. Look for one in/near Crystal City (Wash DC area) in
Feb 2013.
(FWIW, in the spirit of full disclosure, I do  have had a business
relationship with them for 6 years.)
--cin


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Re: [h-cost] 1849 Bonnet (1/12 scale)

[Marjorie Wilser]

Charming! Tres elegant!

I'll look forward to the whole story ( dress), after the gifting.

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Sep 3, 2012, at 4:17 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:


Hi,
Thank you for all your help and advice on my first straw hat. I'm  
still hoping to surprise someone with the dressed doll, so I won't  
post the whole outfit until the project is finished, but I'm too  
excited about finishing the hat not to show it to you.


https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.516383471710247.130900.10157974475type=1l=00cec87117

Of course there's lots I have learned in making this hat and the  
next one will be better. Im trying to work up the courage to try to  
reduce the fray-check stain on the bow, I wish I had hidden my  
stitches in the lining. Thing I'm still having the most trouble with  
is exaggerating details either because I can't make them small  
enough or because I want them to be apparent. The topline of the hat  
should have been straighter, the brim is too big, etc. But I'm still  
pleased with it for a first try!


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Re: [h-cost] Stockings for 1917

[Marjorie Wilser]

Vicki,

You definitely want some upper-class stockings then. Get natural  
color, or match your shoes. An older woman might match the shoes.


I remember my grandmother's stockings (she married in 1913), which  
were heavy, opaque and had seams. Of course, my memory is from the  
50s. . . she hadn't changed her stocking style, or her shoes (black  
oxfords with 1-1/2 inch heels). She was a conservative dressing farm  
wife.


Your lady might wear slightly less opaque hose, but I'm betting the  
shoes are the same. Little patterns of holes in the toes, right? lace  
ups, stack heels.


Too bad you couldn't find the double strap kind. They are more  
flattering for your feet and would look more upper class. Of course, a  
suffragette who walks in parades probably would prefer the oxfords  
anyway ;)


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Aug 27, 2012, at 8:24 PM, Vicki Betts wrote:


Thanks for everyone's input.  I should have told you that I'll be a
middle-aged woman, small town (15,000 population in hot Texas) but  
upper
class and well-traveled, a suffragette who has campaigned in Austin  
and
Washington, DC.  The dress is really nice green lawn with a stylized  
cream
and dark brown vertical ivy motif.  The top of the dress is the  
Armistice
blouse but the collar and cuffs are cut from a white linen table  
runner with
drawn threads.  I attached a mid-calf skirt and I'm using a self  
fabric belt
with an oval mother of pearl(ish) pass through buckle about five  
inches top
to bottom and maybe two inches side to side.  I'm planning on a  
cream silk
georgette broad brimmed hat, deep crown, with feathers.  I tried to  
get some
shoes with a double buttoned strap, but I'm settling for a pair of  
oxford

type shoes, dark brown to almost black.

Vicki Betts



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Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions

[Marjorie Wilser]

Please do, Lauren! I'd forgotten it was 1/12. wow. AWE :)

==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Aug 26, 2012, at 9:50 PM, Lauren Walker wrote:


Hi,
I have constructed the straw part of the 1849 hat, bound the raw  
edges, and applied the bavolet! 1/12-scale bavolet = mighty tricky.  
Now just the lining-ruffles and the lining and the bow and gimp  
trims. Whew! hats are elaborate.
Thank you to everyone for your advice and picture links and  
everything. When it's done I'll post pictures.




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[h-cost] sewing machines

[Marjorie Wilser]

Went with a friend to look at new sewing machines. We hit a Bernina  
store because we were in the hood.


My brain boggled at the prices (21K for ALL the bellses  whistles). . .

Is anybody else shopping and what are your parameters for a great  
sewing machine that won't break the bank? (I'm now interested in a  
serger, so I'll start a parallel thread).


==Marjorie Wilser (whose beloved Pfaff is working just fine, thank you!)

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




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[h-cost] serger review?

[Marjorie Wilser]

I need to replace my serger and would welcome use/quality comments by  
brand name-- from people who have bought a new serger in the last  
year, please!


Leaning toward Bernina Imagine.  I have not used a serger in 10  
years and am looking forward to the technology improvements since  
then! I used to own a Pfaff, which I liked, but the thread tree broke  
and is unavailable for that model le sigh


I don't serge on historicals, but I sew my mundanes and anything else  
that isn't nailed down.


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/



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Re: [h-cost] 1849 millinery questions

[Marjorie Wilser]

Bavolet is the word I've heard for the curtain. I've probably mis- 
spelled it :)


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On Jul 27, 2012, at 2:06 PM, Lynn Downward wrote:


Hi Lauren,

Welcome to millinary, a wonderful, terrible art.

I can answer two of your questions. however, the question of  
symmetry (#2

and #4) depended on the year and the desire of the wearer. Sometimes
symmetry was all, sometimes asymmetry was the way to go. Perhaps  
someone

with more experience in 1849 fashion can help you there.

However, yes, a straw bonnet would have that curtain in the back to  
cover
your (naked!) neck. It could be made of the lining fabric or part of  
the
trimming ribbon or even some of the fabric to match your dress.  
There's a

French term that means 'curtain', can't remember it right now and that
ruffle at the back is usually called by that name.

The lining could have been shirred and look poofy or smooth against  
inside

of the bonnet and/or (are you getting the terrible part yet?) she is
wearing a cap. As soon as I wrote 'women always covered their hair' I
remembered dozens of photographs of women whose hair showed.

Best wishes on your project. I hope you'll take pictures and send us  
a link

to admire.

LynnD

On Fri, Jul 27, 2012 at 1:55 PM, lauren.wal...@comcast.net wrote:




Hi,

I'm working on a 1/12 scale (dollhouse miniature) of the outfit in  
an 1849
fashion plate. (If you've subscribed to the Costume Gallery, it's  
part of

the Year in Fashion: 1949 collection,
http://www.costumegallery.com/1849/  . It's   the March 1849
Fashion

Plate : Lady with Children .)



I'm almost done with the gown and moving on to the bonne t. I am not
very knowledgeable about 19th-century headwear, and am hoping  
someone with

expertise can give me a clue or two or three .



The bonnet appears to be straw, and I think it is more or less the  
typical

shape of that decade, which I've seen variously described as
cottage/spoon/scuttle . I've read that by 1849 the brim, while  
still large
in circumference, no longer extended very far out beyond the face,  
which
seems consistent with the image . Other examples from the same year  
that
I've seen had a straight top line rather than a break between the  
caul and
brim. A ribbon trims the hat, more or less where the caul would  
turn into

the brim if they were not continuous.



So far so good.



The plate doesn't show the back of the bonnet. Other examples from  
around
the same time have some kind of fabric ruffle on the back at the  
bottom of

the caul, coming forward as far as the ribbon trim.



Here are my questions:

1) None of the real-life bonnets I've looked at is straw. On these  
other

bonnets, the fabric ruffle is made of the same fashion fabric as the
outside of the bonnet. Would a straw bonnet have the ruffle? What  
would it

be made of on a straw hat?



2) The bonnet in the fashion plate has an elaborate bow and tassel  
trim on
the visible side. Would there have been the same  trim on both  
sides of the

head ? Or just on one side?



3) There's something sort of poufy or ruffly going on inside the  
brim of
the bonnet. Would the lining have been poufy or did fashionable  
women still

wear caps under their bonnets in '49?

4) There are also flowers trimming the inside of the brim. Would  
those

have been arranged the same way on both sides of the head, or
asymmetrically?



Thank you for any thoughts you might share!

Best,

Lauren



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Re: [h-cost] Boning for Edwardian/Titanic Era dresses

[Marjorie Wilser]

I've seen folks use long zip ties for light boning! Ends cut off, of  
course ;) You can buy heavier-than usual ones at a specialty hardware  
store, or perhaps a shipping specialty store (not ups! they're  
consumer grade)


==Marjorie Wilser

 @..@   @..@   @..@
Three Toad Press
http://3toad.blogspot.com/


On Jul 20, 2012, at 8:54 AM, Carol Kocian wrote:


Hi Rachael,

Sometimes there was a bit of boning in the gown, as well. Even with  
a corset, the gown could ride up. Generally it was still whalebone,  
split into thinner widths.


Plastic featherboning is supposed to mimic actual feather shafts  
used for boning. I heard that from a friend but don't have any  
actual source. Anyway, the featherboning should be enough to keep  
the gown seams smooth, it's just not enough support for a corset.  
Rigilene is another light stiffener that will work, and is flatter  
that featherboning. Something else that works in a pinch is  
horsehair braid — I use one piece as a base, and stretch another  
piece to zigzag on top of it. The ends have to be tucked into  
fabric, though, or else those little nylon strands will poke.


The good news is, you can add the seam boning after the gown is  
made, so you can try it on first to see if you need it.


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