Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
Thanks, 'Bella! Armed with a copy of Denise Dreher's From the Neck Up: an illustrated guide to hatmaking and your helpful posts, we forged ahead with the 1908 hat project today. Using lightweight wool felt and a heavy non-fusible interfacing (possibly Pel-tex'… it was in my stash but not labeled), and hand stitching, we got a nice approximation of the turban in McCall Pattern No. 6260, Scotch Hats. (There are 3 views: a scotch cap which is fairly simple, a tam-o-'shanter which looks like a large Buster Brown hat, and the turban which is what took my student's fancy.) I haven't found any images for this pattern on teh interwebz -- it appears that McCall's has re-used that number at least 6 times in the intervening century -- so I'll try to get it posted on our Facebook page next week. :-) I couldn't find hat canvas in our small midwestern town, and I didn't want to use buckram (available at JoAnn's in the utility fabric section) because it's not water-proof, so that dictated the choice of materials. I'm going to try another version with a lightweight fashion fabric for comparison. The pattern directions assume that you know when to trim and clip the seam allowance, and when to stitch the center back seam, and how to apply the embellishments… it was an interesting exercise in historic interpretation. The next challenge is to figure out how to adapt the pattern for different head sizes (I think this one assumes that you'll be wearing it on top of big hair). We're jazzed now and thinking about ordering hat canvas and millinery wire online so we can tackle more complicated projects. Suzanne On Feb 15, 2013, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions Date: February 14, 2013 9:50:30 PM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com …. Your hat question has been on my mind for hours now, and I'm doing a little bit of surfing. (I've been unable to find a picture of the pattern you have though...poo!) Nevetheless, here's a little more hand-holding for ya! This page has a list of different types of hat canvas, and there's a paragraph toward the middle of the page that says for fabric suggestions, go to my homepage. http://www.millinerytechniques.com/covered-hat-requirements.html 'Bella ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] vintage hat-making instructions
I have a millinery question -- or maybe I just need some hand-holding while I talk through these instructions. I'm looking at a © 1908 McCall's pattern for a turban and it starts out, Canvas the brim. Does that simply mean 'attach interfacing'? What was canvas in 1908? (Will Timtex work?) This should be a simple project 'cause it's only 2 pattern pieces… but hats are definitely not my strong suit! The so-called brim is a shaped upright piece, similar to a Scotch bonnet; the crown is a soft, slightly gathered, oval. The glory of the turban is in the braid and feather trim, of course. But first we gotta' make the hat… and I have a student anxious for my help… I'm touched by her confidence but I really don't know what I'm doing! This hat has no lining, and the directions tell me to turn under the edge of the brim and stitch it down. What would be suitable fabrics? Do I need a wool felt, or can we do this with any tightly woven fashion fabric? (The yardage on the pattern envelope is for 27 wide fabric, but doesn't indicate what fabric.) Help! Suzanne in Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] old sewing thread
Here's an odd question: How long does cotton or silk sewing thread last? At work today, we found an old cigar box full of Belding Corticelli thread that probably dates back to the early 1950s. (The small spools of cotton were priced at 15 cents and the large ones at 25 cents.) I was admiring the beautiful shades of green. . . and then everyone else said it would all have to be thrown out because it was too old to use in machine sewing. I'd never heard of thread going bad so now I'm wondering if I was just daydreaming that day in home ec class [quite likely!] or if this is common knowledge for everyone but me? (I also have a friend who refuses to use vintage cotton fabric because it might rip, so there's another question for you!) I reeled out one spool of white and pulled hard, and it does seem thinner than the polyester stuff they sell most places these days--but does that mean it won't work even for lightweight projects? Such a waste! :-( Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] … Tudor Tailor yahoo group
There used to be a Yahoo group called Tudor Tailor Reader. I can't find it now. (I left the group 2-3 years ago because it had been taken over by RenFaire wenches who didn't seem to realize that we were talking about a specific book!) I find that my younger friends don't like Yahoo groups, or don't know how to use them, so the moderator may have shut down the group as interest waned. Suzanne On Aug 18, 2012, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: jaur...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] I forgot to ask, re Tudor Tailor Date: August 17, 2012 1:58:31 PM CDT Does anyone know if there are discussion lists or forums devoted to the books? I tried looking on yahoo groups but did not find one, though someone had mentioned it existed. They also have a Facebook page, but it does not seem to function as a discussion site, though I am very backwards about Facebook, and can't always find out the info I want on people's Facebook pages. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] not seeing digests
I did see this the first time (in Digest 142, delivered on Friday) -- but I've also been having trouble with h-costume messages not showing up in either my Inbox or my Junk folder. It's really frustrating to read replies to queries we never saw! In June, I didn't get Digests 134 or 141. I wonder what will disappear this month? OK, rant mode off. Back to my first attempt at Viking garb. :-) Suzanne On Jun 29, 2012, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Dyed Cloth from the Iron Age Date: June 28, 2012 7:01:42 PM CDT To: h-cost...@indra.com Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com (Apologies if you get this twice, the first one didn't appear to go through) This from a bog body: http://sciencenordic.com/dyed-clothes-came-fashion-early-iron-age What I find most striking is the twilled plaid. I did a double take because I thought for sure that nobody could be wearing *houndstooth* plaid so early. The rest of the accessory finds are pretty interesting too. -Laura ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 133
I've been to 2 of them. One was my very first ever SCA event, and I enjoyed most of it. (SCA folk tend to travel in packs, and as a single I felt a bit like the proverbial fish out of water.) There was way more going on than I could possibly keep up with--and I still refer to some of the handouts I brought back, and talk to other people about our shared experiences there. People were very welcoming to a newcomer, and it was definitely worth the money and time I put into it. The second one was one of those events where everything that could go wrong did go wrong. I still enjoyed the sessions I attended, and all the friendly conversations with other costumers, but there is one shire in the Known World that I will never go out of my way to visit again. :-( (I think it was a classic case of too few people taking responsibility for the group's endeavor, and when the venue self-destructed there weren't enough staff to fix all the problems.) But again, I have the handouts and still refer to them and share them, so it wasn't a total loss. I've recently been thinking about going to the one in November because it's an easy day's drive and that's not a busy time of year for me. And, I don't mind the idea of a hotel conference setting for this type of SCA event; I know others don't agree with that point of view but it works for me. I'll be interested in hearing what others think! Suzanne (in Iowa) On Jun 12, 2012, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Simone Bryan cil...@dracolore.com Subject: [h-cost] Known World Costuming Symposium Date: June 11, 2012 3:40:20 PM CDT ... Since I am not going to Costume College for the first time in like 12 years, because I was going to Pennsic, however? The prices on airfare has made that almost impossible So in November? In Chicago I was wondering if anyone was going to the SCA's Known World Costuming Symposium? And has anyone been to one and did they enjoy themselves? Cilean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pumpkin bonnet
We have two calashes so I'm familiar with ugly. (Most of our collection is post-1850... and strongest in the 1880-1980 timeframe… but we have a few representative pieces from earlier decades.) The brown silk bonnet is smaller, and squishable, and I'm beginning to wonder if it lost its lining somewhere along the way -- or could it be a child's bonnet? It's just so darn shapeless! We took some photos but it turned out too orange-y so I'll try again next week. Thanks, Suzanne On Mar 23, 2012, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] pumpkin bonnet? Date: March 22, 2012 10:25:02 PM CDT To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com At 07:29 PM 3/22/2012, you wrote: Hello 19th century experts! I'm trying to date a bonnet which was donated to the museum where I work -- but 19th century bonnets are not my area of expertise. The donors called this a pumpkin bonnet from early 1800s but I have doubts about that, and the only similar examples I found in a quick internet search were American Civil War era. I'm inclined to go with a circa 1860 date but I'd be delighted to hear from someone who actually knows something! :-) The bonnet is made of brown silk, constructed in concentric rows of thick ruching, with tiny bows at the top center of each row, and a short bavolet. It's softer and more spherical in shape than this one (because the back is less defined and the bavolet is not as heavily gathered): http://darlinganddash.com/bonnetcardboard.html I don't yet have a picture of our bonnet -- but go ahead and make suggestions anyway. No matter what, I'll learn something! Thanks, Suzanne Your description sounds like it might be an ugly from the first half of the 1800s or late 1790s. An ugly was worn to protect the relatively high coiffure and cap when travelling; it could very well look something like a pumpkin. It was usually constructed with caning (or wires). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] pumpkin bonnet?
Hello 19th century experts! I'm trying to date a bonnet which was donated to the museum where I work -- but 19th century bonnets are not my area of expertise. The donors called this a pumpkin bonnet from early 1800s but I have doubts about that, and the only similar examples I found in a quick internet search were American Civil War era. I'm inclined to go with a circa 1860 date but I'd be delighted to hear from someone who actually knows something! :-) The bonnet is made of brown silk, constructed in concentric rows of thick ruching, with tiny bows at the top center of each row, and a short bavolet. It's softer and more spherical in shape than this one (because the back is less defined and the bavolet is not as heavily gathered): http://darlinganddash.com/bonnetcardboard.html I don't yet have a picture of our bonnet -- but go ahead and make suggestions anyway. No matter what, I'll learn something! Thanks, Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Hallowe'en - Alice in Wonderland
I don't usually purchase costumes. . . but my daughter [who's in college, and in a different time zone] has asked for help with a traditional Disney Alice in Wonderland blue dress with white pinafore. She's looked in the standard costume shops that pop up at this time of year and says the dresses are all too short. She's looked on e-bay and it seems that everyone is selling the same custom design that comes from China and takes 6 weeks for delivery. Does anyone know of a costume shop in New York City that has real costumes instead of stuff-to-get-drunk-in? Thanks for any suggestions! Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments
The Danish National Museum put some patterns online a couple years ago. Even if you don't read Danish, you can click through the various images to find the patterns in the small icons in the lower right: http://tidenstoej.natmus.dk/periode1/dragt.asp?ID=1 And I bet there are people on this list who can help with translations. ;-) Suzanne On Aug 8, 2011, at 6:05 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Beth Chamberlain bcham...@suffolk.lib.ny.us Subject: Re: [h-cost] Scaled drawings of original garments Date: August 8, 2011 5:46:46 PM CDT To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I haven't seen mentioned yet: Bech, Viben. Moden 1840-1890, part of the Danske Dragter series, I don't remember the dates covered by the other volumes Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes: 1600-1930 Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men's Clothes: 1600-1900 Brown, Bill. Thoughts on men's shirts The new VA series, though I'm guessing you want something later than the one volume out so far ;) Beth Chamberlain ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Folkwear 508
Has anyone made Folkwear's 1915 Traveling Suit? http://www.folkwear.com/508.html If so, how's the fit? The jumper has a deep V-neckline front and back, deep armholes, and plenty of fullness over the waist and hips--so I'm wondering why it needs a center back zipper? (This pattern has 2 Recommended reviews at the GBACG site but neither mentions the zipper.) Thanks, Suzanne [the one in Iowa] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Williamsburg Costume Symposia
I'll try to remember to bring a red magic marker. :-) I signed up at the end of December--and am hoping to hear that I got in to some of the programs that are wait-listed. If the tours and such are already full, it sounds like there will be a lot of us there. Suzanne in Iowa On Jan 20, 2011, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: annbw...@aol.com Date: January 19, 2011 6:39:58 PM CST To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Williamsburg Costume Symposia I signed up for the Williamsburg costume programs in March--seemed like it would be everyone who should be here is here, but I don't actually know anyone personally who is going. Shall we try the red H's, on the badge, a la CostumeCon? Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles
Fran, short answer: no. It's new scholarship. http://www.brill.nl/default.aspx?partid=227pid=10302 Other people on the list (Robin? Beth?) will have better info for you--my advance notice is at the office and I'm at home right now. HTH, Suzanne p.s. whose Artbooks catalog was that? On Jun 4, 2010, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com Date: June 4, 2010 12:19:04 PM CDT To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] From the Artbooks catalog Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Title: Encyclopaedia of Medieval Dress and Textiles Author: Owen-Crocker, Gale R Price: $195.00 ISBN: 9789004124356 Is this just reprints of papers already in Medieval Costume Textiles, or??? Anyone know? Fran Lavolta Press Books on historic clothing ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC28
I'll be there. (I don't have an 'H' -- what sort of font is it?) I'm struggling with some annoying weight gain, so I won't be wearing anything special. Ethnic one day, historic another, probably doing a generic '60s thing (not formal) for the Friday social. Mostly I'll be there to catch some classes and admire everyone else's costumes. :-) Suzanne On Apr 16, 2010, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Anyone else from the list going to be at CC28 in Milwaukee next month? Do we want to put H's on our badges or stage a meet-up? --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] London calling?
For 14th C., I enjoyed visiting the Tower and talking with the costumed guides. And I hear the Museum of London will be re-opening some of the galleries that have been closed for renovation--you could check to see if the costumes are back on display. (I still regret missing that gallery back in 1994!) The VA has a nice cafeteria, Kensington Palace has a fancy tea room, and the Tower of London has a new-ish restaurant that's not bad. For that matter, the bar and restaurant on the top floor of the Tate Modern are worth a visit for the food and the view. I buy the house brand tea at Waitrose, which I assume is not quite what you were asking about. If you make it to either Selvedge (somewhere near Archway) or Hand Lock, do report back! Those are two shops I've been curious about [they're not bargain spots] but didn't have time for last year. Have fun! Suzanne On Apr 16, 2010, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu Date: April 15, 2010 3:23:47 PM CDT Subject: [h-cost] London calling? Does anyone have any recommendations for things not to be missed in London or Bath for lovers of historic costume? After the VA, the National Portrait Gallery and the Bath Museum of Costume, that is. Other museums? Best places to buy period-like fabric? Fabric bargain spots? Any and all information gratefully appreciated. - Hope P.S. ...And good tea shop recommendations are also appreciated. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on Terminology
I assume you're looking for sources for Renaissance costuming? Try Anderson's Hispanic Costume 1480-1530--she says camisa or, sometimes, alcandora--or Daily Life in Portugal in the late Middle Ages (Univ. of Wisconsin Press, 1971). If your library doesn't own them, you should be able to get them fairly easily on Inter Library Loan. You'll want to read Anderson anyway because she has a lovely compilation of pictorial evidence and several pages of text about style and embellishment. Suzanne On Jan 10, 2010, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: [h-cost] Question on Terminology Hello Everyone, I have been reading and researching to find what the Spanish called Smocks, we all know Chemise, and some even know Camisia now but what did the Spanish or Portuguese call this basic undergarment? Cilean ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Milwaukee/CostumeCon... Raphael?
For those of you planning to attend CostumeCon 2010, there's something else to see in Milwaukee next year: http://www.mam.org/exhibitions/details/raphael.php Raphael's La Donna Velata will be on exhibit at the Milwaukee Art Museum. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 321
Denise, did you go to the opening?? [I did!] Thanks for sharing this with the list. Suzanne also in Iowa On Sep 17, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: [h-cost] textile exhibit in Ames Iowa Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com If anyone is going to be in the area, there is a nice exhibit on the ISU campus in Ames Iowa Ethnic Textile Traditions of Iowa Immigrant Native Populations Sept 16 through Nov 20, 2009 Mary Alice Gallery, Textile and Clothing Museum Morrill Hall, ISU Ames Iowa http://isutcmuseum.blogspot.com/ there is a wonderful catalog featuring items from the exhibit, and plans for an on-line tour at some point. I think the hours of the exhibit are 11-4 M-F, but tours can be arranged outside of those hours, I believe. Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Greenwood Encyclopedia of Clothing through World History
Published in 2008... has anyone looked at this set yet? I've only got the first volume (of three) so far. I thought the essay on 'Byzantine Clothing' was pretty good, and had the expected references. The essay on 'Medieval Clothing' is quite extensive-- more than I want to read in one sitting--but most of the sources in its Further Reading section are older (with the exception of Medieval Fabrications: Dress, Textiles, Clothwork, and Other Cultural Imaginings, 2004), the Web Resources listing is mediocre, and the publisher had the unhappy idea of adding a list of films with medieval themes gag, cough without any annotations. I'd be interested in hearing what other folks think of this title. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Verity is wearing my ca. 1510 Venetian gown, with an overly-large camicia borrowed from someone else. It's not a pretty sight. Verity has been re-calibrated to fit my current [overweight] size and the gown no longer meets at the waist. Pout. But, that's why she's named Verity--she doesn't lie to me. So the next step is to give that gown away and make a new one from some maroon velveteen in the stash... oh, and a new camicia, too, since I lost mine at Lilies War [long story] and the one I've borrowed is uncomfortably big. My cutting table, on the other hand, is wearing yards and yards of lightweight linen to be made into a couple of Elizabethan smocks using Margo's Historic Patterns. One of 'em will stand in for the new camicia for a while, I'm sure. Suzanne On Sep 2, 2009, at 3:25 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: It's that time of year! We're planning for holiday parties, fall winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night and theater season. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] online Museum Studies offer
In the recent discussion of postgraduate options, Monica mentioned an online Ph.D. program. For those of you who might not have time for a degree program but are interested in working with textile clothing collections, California State University at Long Beach has an online certificate program in Costume Textiles Museum Collections Management. The coursework (4 classes) is offered through their Extension Services, then they help you arrange a museum internship in your geographic area for the Fieldwork part of the program. I took it 5 years ago and loved it. It hasn't been offered in the past couple of years, while they re-organized the Extension programs, but I just heard that it will be up and running again in November of this year. I couldn't find a current listing yet on the CSULB website http://www.ccpe.csulb.edu/ContinuingEd but here's what they told me in an e-mail: We will be starting Module I in November, followed by Modules II-V starting in January 2010; all classes taught entirely online. Interested individuals can contact Penni Wells directly at 562-985-4486 or pwe...@ccpe.csulb.edu ...the modules are: Module I: Introduction to Collections Management Module II: Nature of Materials and Agents of Deterioration Module III: Care and Storage Module IV: Issues of Collections Management Module V: Fieldwork I urge anyone who's interested to contact Penni for more information-- that will help the College estimate class size, etc. For now, if you google the program you'll get the description from several years ago... and I don't know if all the instructors will be the same. I do know that Tawny Sherrill is the director, and some of you will know her name from presentations at the International Congress on Medieval Studies and articles in Medieval Clothing Textiles. Now, here's the part that will be of particular interest to h-costume listmembers: Mention the h-costume list receive 10 per cent off the cost of each individual module! I did not make that up--they really said that!! So take advantage of it, folks! (And feel free to contact me off-list if you have questions.) Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
WorldCon! I might be there g and if I'm not, I'd love to see it anyway. Thank you for sharing your photographs with us! Suzanne On Jul 9, 2009, at 10:59 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Our next trip will hopefully be to Pennsic or World Con to photograph costumes. We are trying to figure out which one is better and the expense. We have to travel to Mississippi the prior to take our son to college. Following Pennsic or World Con week, we are in Scranton, PA (hubby's business and my antique shopping), and then hopefully to NYC for the weekend. Off to play with more photographs! Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions
I lived in Ann Arbor, Michigan, from 1963 to 1976. As I remember it, skirts got progressively shorter from 1966 to 1969 but the local culture still didn't accept trousers on women. IIRC, the first pantsuits for women were greeted with derision on this side of the Atlantic. Anyhoo, I *loathed* mini-skirts with a deep, abiding passion so I made my first maxi skirt (without a pattern) in 1968/1969, specifically to wear to school (9th grade). It was ankle- length, and I'm proud to say that I was one of the first to wear one in my social circle g. By the time I graduated in 1972, we were all routinely wearing those long dresses with the elastic under the bust (as mentioned by another list-member)--made in wild floral prints and using commercial patterns--when we weren't wearing jeans. While other fashions had been banned at various times, the Ann Arbor schools never bothered to target granny dresses. I do remember that it was a challenge to keep bra straps hidden under those wide necklines! So when I went to college I just stopped wearing the bras By 1974, I had given up wearing skirts entirely and bought pantsuits instead for occasions that called for something nicer than jeans. Anybody wanna talk about pantsuits?? Suzanne [who thinks it is true that the Sixties mostly happened in the Seventies] On Jul 4, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu Date: July 4, 2009 11:44:14 AM CDT To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1960s hippie fashions Ah, what fun. I know by the early 70s I had several long dresses for casual wear, but when did the trend start? Well, here are two factoids that might help: In the late 60s Laura Ashley introduced daywear that had a longer length. (see any history of Laura Ashley, wikipedia will do) And my favorite kind of evidence--mention in contemporary literature: In 1968 the popular writer Barbara Michaels published Ammie, Come Home a ghost story set in Georgetown, MD. The key thing here is that early in the book the protagonist goes shopping with her trendy niece and is talked into buying one of those new maxi skirts. (BTW remember that the first maxis were mid-calf length. Later the term was applied to ankle-length as well.) - Hope On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 12:06 AM, Sylvia Rognstad syl...@ntw.net wrote: Anyhow, I'm trying to remember when long skirts and dresses came in. I can only recall wearing them in the 1970s, but my legs, not being what they used to be, definitely do not want to be seen in a mini skirt, which is all I can remember wearing in the late 60s. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ribbon cockade for a tricorn hat
Cin, there was a brief article about Ribbonwork ornaments in issue #74 of Threads magazine (Dec 97/Jan 98) that showed how to fold a cockade, pinwheel, etc. You should be able to find back issues of Threads *some*where [we all hoard things...], or ask your library to request a photocopy of the article on Interlibrary Loan. And--let us know if the instructions worked! Suzanne On Jun 20, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com Date: June 19, 2009 8:00:46 PM CDT Subject: [h-cost] Ribbon cockade for a tricorn hat Gentle readers, I've been looking thru Candace Kling and Denise Dreher's books websites but cant find any good instructions for a two or three tone ribbon cockade. Likely I'm looking in the wrong place but dont quite know what to search for. My hope is to find some instructions to pleat, twist, braid or bead a hat trim suitable for my tricorn that I just blocked Wens. (So excited! I have a new skill!) Any ideas? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dressing like an American
I can only offer anecdotal evidence: I grew up in a firmly middle-class, Midwestern, WASP family... in 1968, when I was 13, we went to Europe for several weeks in the summer because my father was attending a conference in Switzerland and then visiting some colleagues in southern Germany, with a brief stop in England on the way home. Everyone said that I should only pack dresses and dressy accessories (anyone remember how awful pantyhose were back then?) because no one in Europe dressed casually as Americans do. And then I was miserable the whole time because I was the *only* person my age who wasn't attired comfortably in jeans! As I recall, the only other fashion victims we encountered were middle-aged South Africans... it seemed like the entire world had adopted my home dress code but I was prevented from being part of it due to other peoples' assumptions about appropriate dress. I even remember a German woman telling us that I should learn to relax and wear looser clothing! I'll have to ask my mother what she remembers from that trip By the time we hit London at the end of July I was too grumpy to see what was English about the people around me. (I just wanted to get home and ditch the patent leather dress shoes and handbag. Shudder.) If The Gabriel Hounds was published in 1967, as Amazondotcom tells me, then I'm at a loss to know what the author meant! I don't remember anyone in Michigan wearing Liberty prints but that's about the only difference I can come up with. Maybe there was a difference in acceptable skirt lengths? That was no help at all, was it?? Suzanne On Apr 26, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Claire Clarke angha...@adam.com.au Date: April 26, 2009 7:16:58 AM CDT To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Dressing like an American Hi all, Some of you who were alive back then might not consider this historic costume, but I thought this was a good place to ask this question. I was recently reading 'The Gabriel Hounds' by Mary Stewart, which is set in Lebanon in, I think the '60's (1960's that is). The narrator is English but has been living in America and at one point describes herself as 'dressing like an American'. I was curious how differently American and English women might have dressed at this time. Is this another way of saying that she dressed informally? Or wore trousers a lot? Claire ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Original Re-Enactor's Market
I was there on Saturday, too! I'm so sorry I didn't think to ask people's names... :-( I had a grand time--bought too many books, of course, but also some of the Tudor Tailor patterns (because I'm afraid I'll never get around to drafting them from the book), and some way cool pewter dress hooks, and an earthenware cup, and buttons, and '16th century' playing cards, and some lovely Irish linen The young man at customs in Detroit just shook his head and waved me on through. ;-) Suzanne (who's been home for several days and is still catching up on e-mail) On Mar 16, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: Lena lenast...@yahoo.com Date: March 16, 2009 9:42:28 AM CDT To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] The OriginalRe-Enactor's Market I was there on Saturday. Did you get anything nice? /Lena (often lurking, rarely posting) --- On Sun, 15/3/09, sjpater...@eastlink.ca sjpater...@eastlink.ca wrote: From: sjpater...@eastlink.ca sjpater...@eastlink.ca Subject: [h-cost] The OriginalRe-Enactor's Market To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Date: Sunday, 15 March, 2009, 12:09 AM -Inline Attachment Follows- in Coventry, UK I got to go today then felt dumb when I saw names I thought I recognized from this list - who else was there? Sarah Paterson (SCA: Bess Darnley) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom
Those are nice pictures! I'm more familiar with the backstrap loom in Central America. If he's willing to slog through a couple of books in English, some standard works are The Book of Looms by Eric Broudy and The Art of the Loom by Ann Hecht. I'm sorry that I can't recommend books in French. :-) Perhaps someone else on the list will know of some. Suzanne On Feb 6, 2009, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Subject: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom Hello everyone, My elder brother, who is currently studying ethnic minorities in Vietnam, came to me with a question about a loom he saw there. Unfortunately I was unable to answer him, since my weaving knowledge is very scarce, but I promised him to try and find more knowleadgeable persons, and where else can I find them but here ? ;) I'll try to be as clear as possible, although I have to translate his words into English, and I must say I'm not very familiar with French weaving terms to begin with. Basically, he photographed this : http://www.flickr.com/photos/19370...@n02/ Thank you for your help, Mathilde ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern?
Date: January 4, 2009 11:20:33 AM CST To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Phrygian cap pattern? There are pictures of some at the Museum of Fine Arts Boston: http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp? coll_keywords=45.297submit.x=0submit.y=0 http://www.mfa.org/collections/search_art.asp? coll_keywords=45.298submit.x=0submit.y=0 Katy Katy Thank you so much - those are really, really helpful. Suzi Indeed they are! Thanks for the links. Suzanne p.s. Does anyone besides me think that the museum has the hat *backwards* on the mannequin? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Byzantine headdress
There is an article entitled, Some notes on the external appearance of ordinary women in Byzantium by M. Emmanuel, that appeared in vol. 56 of a journal called Byzantinoslavica (1995, pp. 769-778). I saw it referenced in one of Anna Muthesius' works [don't remember which one] and sent for it via InterLibrary Loan because my library does not have a subscription to this journal. The article ends very abruptly and I'm wondering if I have a complete cite... However, it does have a few line drawings of women's headdresses along with descriptions of the original artwork that the author researched so it might be of use to your friend. And if you find out that there is another page or two of text, please let us know!! HTH, Suzanne On Dec 27, 2008, at 1:00 PM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: From: penhal...@juno.com penhal...@juno.com Date: December 26, 2008 9:10:01 PM CST To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Byzantine Headresses ... I am writing on behalf of a friend who is interested in doing some Byzantine woman's headresses. She can only find a few basic styles (I think she's actually only found one!) and is interested in sources which might show her different options. Does anyone here know of places which would be good to search? Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles
Thank you for that link! Not my period of interest, but it looks like fun. :-) And on a totally different subject: How was Florence? I've been anxiously awaiting reports from the Janet Arnold conference Suzanne From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: November 18, 2008 10:56:41 AM CST To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sharpe's Rifles I suggest you try here. http://www.napoleonicassociation.org/home/ Members have been involved as extras in filming the series, and the research you need may be here too - I don't have time to check myself. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] French titles - medieval
Chris, I had the same reaction to The Devil's Cloth, and his book on heraldry. Entertaining, yes, but not always thoroughly grounded in the most recent historical research. Pastoreau's works are an okay place to start a research project as long as you back it up with other sources. And the pictures are nice. :-) Suzanne On Nov 2, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: November 1, 2008 9:04:26 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] French titles - Mediaeval costume and textiles ... On Nov 1, 2008, at 3:40 AM, Viv Watkins wrote: You might be interested in this book - although it covers a much wider period it has a good mediaeval section. trimmed The French title is - Rayures: Une histoire des rayures et des tissus rayes by Michel Pastoureau ISBN 2020236664. Publisher Seuil (1995). It is out of print but Amazon has one copy available in the USA at £15.26. The translation is - The Devil's Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric (European Perspectives: A Series in Social Thought and Cultural Criticism) ISBN 0231123663 . Columbia University Press (2001). Amazon has plenty of copies starting from £7.99. Michel Pastoureau is a very entertaining writer, but tends to be a bit how shall I say this flamboyant? about some of what he says. I have a couple of his books, including _Blue: The History of a Color_ and right at the very beginning it contains some passages that appear to demonstrate that he either is not aware of, or is deliberately ignoring, some of the significant research on the cognitive history of color concepts (or so says the scholar who gave it to me). OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California + http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 392
Oh, I like this one! Most of my co-workers don't dress up. They were sort of befuddled 2 years ago when I showed up with orange pumpkin bobbles on a headband This year I wore happy face socks and a happy face t-shirt with my jeans [the only time of year I wear jeans to work] and had my hair tied back with a happy face bandanna -- since I'm known as an old grump, I figured it would be a good disguise. :-) Suzanne On Oct 31, 2008, at 5:58 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 31, 2008 2:46:11 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] All Hallows Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I sort-of dressed up. I am intermittently wearing white bunny ears (intermittently because they're a little tight) and if anybody asks I am Harvey. Jen On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, Shane Sheridan Chabot wrote: So who dressed up for work today and what are you wearing? trimmed ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] knotwork/strapwork [was Mostra dei Costumi...]
Period, yes, and not necessarily just Celtic or Italian [those being our terms and not what the artists might've called themselves]. I'm currently working my way through a large book, Croatia in the early Middle Ages: a cultural survey, (1999, ISBN 0-85667-499-0) and have seen several examples of this decorative style -- in stone, from the 8th to 11th centuries. The book illustrations show pieces from the collections of museums in Zadar and Split, on the Dalmatian coast. http://www.zadar.hr/English/Zupanija/Muzeji.aspx http://www.amzd.hr/index.php?lang=english http://www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski/eng/index.html Based on what I've learned so far, I'd say that these are indeed Croatian works of art and not just imports from cities in Italy. The book is amazing, though sadly lacking in costume content. :-) Suzanne On Sep 6, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: September 5, 2008 2:13:14 PM CDT Not Celtic knotwork, I'd say instead Italian strapwork (but whether or not it was period, I've no idea.) Was this for the Palio horserace, maybe? -Original Message- Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 11:34 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Mostra dei Costumi delle Armi e Degli Ornamenti del Palio Does anyone have any information, background or technical, on this 1993 exhibit of costume held in Legnano, Italy? Looking at the pictures, I can not think that they were trying to recreate extant or known-from-MSS garb as the sources for the designs are taken from a variety of Byzantine, Anglo-Saxon, southern Italian (and did I actually see some Celtic knotwork?!) sources placed on a ground of basic Norman garb. I am knee-deep in research on this time and place, and nothing, except Roger's mantle, of course, leaps out and says I'm attempting to be the real thing. _Odisseus / Ulysses Gallery_ (http://ranaan.altervista.org/html/SCA-Gallery.htm) (The pictures on this page are taken, without attribution, from the exhibition catalogue.) I would very much like to know the purpose behind this exhibition as the question comes up frequently enough about the use of these costumes as documentation. Nancy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Designers questions/Lucile
Penny, Note that Suzi put the correct spelling in her subject line -- Lady Duff Gordon used the name Lucile [ONE 'l'] professionally. (Sorry, I used to be a proof-reader back in the days before spell-checkers.) And Wikipedia is a fairly reliable source for fact-checking stuff like this. ;-) Just don't trust them on anything that has political overtones! ... hmmm, I don't have enough information to say whether Lucy was the same person who became Lucile... I'd say probably not, but others may have better sources. (Remember that, unlike today, Lucy was a popular name 100 years ago.) I'm pretty sure that Mme Paquin's forename was Jeanne, but I don't have a reliable source for that. :-) My home library is heavily oriented towards the 16th century... I'll try to find the answers for Paquin tomorrow at work. Suzanne On Sep 4, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: September 3, 2008 4:13:58 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Designers questions/Lucile Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com At 21:23 03/09/2008, you wrote: I am working on history of fashion designers from the early 20th Century and have a few questions. Paquin: I have that Mme Paquin business was from 1891-1956. Does anyone know her first name? I can't find it in my resources. Also I have come across some French images in 1919 for a Joseph Paquin. Would Joseph be a relative working under Mme Paquin's label or house? Lady Duff Gordon: Did she go by several names. I have in 1907 an illustrator and designer named Lucy and in the 1910s Lucille. Could this be Lady Duff Gordon? This one I know - yes Lucille was Lady Duff Gordon. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics
On a happier note, I can report that while I was on vacation in Seattle last week I found a marvelous fabric store called Nancy's that would've tempted me to buy all sorts of nice things if I'd had room in my suitcase to take them home. ;-) And it was full of people on a Saturday afternoon! 'Though I admit there weren't any sales going on and that's what most people would be looking for these days I think the people in Nancy's were looking for specialty items like mother-of-pearl buttons and silk ribbon for special projects. I bought a Sewing Workshop pattern -- I don't know of any place in central Iowa that stocks them. Suzanne On Aug 8, 2008, at 11:20 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Subject: Re: [h-cost] walmart fabrics PS But at least you seem to have gotten a reasoned response. And I will be writing, too. Thanks again for letting us see that at least someone is paying attention. I was with a group of true believers last weekend, and, while we were all lamenting the disappearance of fabric stores, we agreed it is because folks aren't sewing anymore--which is just what Walmart told you. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fabric search
I've purchased solid color wools from Fabric Mart Fabrics (in Pennsylvania) and found them quite satisfactory. But I haven't checked their website lately so don't know what they have in plaids at the moment. http://fabricmartfabrics.com/controller/index.php Hope your shopping is successful! Suzanne On Jul 17, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am searching for wool (coat or blanket weight) in a red or blue plaid. I'd also accept heavy weight flannel in red or blue plaid. I've looked through all the plaids and the wools at these vendors: fabric.com denverfabric.com joann.com hancock fabrics.com trimfabrics.com as well as the local Joann and Hobby Lobby. We found the perfect *color* plaid at Joann, but the fabric is a slippery, stiff taffeta which won't do. At this point, I'd even buy an appropriately colored polarfleece product, but that would be a last choice. Does anyone have a suggestion about where else to search? Thanks! Denise B ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses
Suzi, not at all useless! Since my daughter is moving to England next week, I'm hoping to make a trip over myself in the next year. Up-to- date info on museum collections is greatly appreciated. :-) Suzanne [in Iowa but not in the flood plain] On Jun 19, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: June 19, 2008 9:43:02 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Photos of Georgian/Regency dresses snipped for brevity's sake I believe Berrington Hall now contains what was the Snowshill Collection of Charles Wade. This was moved from one National Trust property, Snowshill, to another, which had more suitable premises. It would be wonderful if we could all see all of the collection. Much of it is drawn in Costume in Detail by Nancy Bradfield. Just thought y'all would like to know that useless piece of information. And thanks for sharing. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] slightly OT forward from H-Museum
I know some of you on h-costume are involved with historic house museums, but I don't know who among you might be on the H-Museum list so I'm forwarding this query to all. [see below] Suzanne From: Potvin, Ronald Matthew [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Historic House Museum closings Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 10:19:20 -0400 Hi all, I am doing some research attempting to quantify the depth of the current historic house museum malaise in the United States. Information about attendance, finances, and staffing are available through various sources. However, verifiable information about closings of house museums is more difficult to obtain and is often anecdotal. Although I realize that soliciting information in this fashion also is anecdotal in nature, these examples will help me to identify the depth of the problem as well as the factors that led to the closings. So, If anyone has heard of the closing or failure of a historic house museum, especially a small historic house museum, I would appreciate that information. Links to online articles or journal citations would also be helpful. Thanks in advance. Ron M. Potvin Assistant Director Curator John Nicholas Brown Center Box 1880, Brown University Providence, RI 02912 401.863.1177 401.863. fax -- H-MUSEUM H-Net Network for Museums and Museum Studies E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.h-museum.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Clothing of the Renaissance World
FYI, Amazon.com is taking pre-orders for the new book about Vecellio's costume book, The clothing of the Renaissance world: Europe, Asia, Africa, the Americas; Cesare Vecellio's Habiti Antichi et Moderni by Margaret F. Rosenthal Ann Rosalind Jones (Thames Hudson, 2008) ISBN 978-0500514269. *Only* $91.25! ;-) Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts [long]
There've been a number of intriguing comments on this thread. To go back to the beginning, Emma asked about this picture, which she found in a discussion concerning the development of the farthingale: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/ Image:Pedro_Garcia_de_Benabarre_St_John_Retable.jpg and her question was, Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head of John the Baptist. Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the outside? (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies behind her?) Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on the outside? I suggest that we break up the question into 2 parts: (1) WHO was Salome? In the 21st century, what does everybody know about her? In the 15th century, what did everybody know about her? (2) WHAT is she wearing in this depiction? Is this style ever seen any where else? Does it have an iconographic meaning? To start with question #1, I'd like to re-iterate the point that several people made, which is that the Bible story never says that Salome took her clothes off. It just says that the king was pleased with the girl's dance, offered to give her anything she asked for, and she ran to her mama to ask what she should say. (Since her mama hated John the Baptist, she took advantage of the situation to have the guy put to death.) That doesn't sound much like a femme fatale. We don't even know how old she was! In fact, the earliest depictions of Salome as lascivious dancer that I was able to find in a quick search of my university library catalog date to the late 19th century in France. It appears that the story of Salome appealed to a number of arty types and they all had their own re-telling of the story -- Flaubert, Mallarme, Wilde [his play, Salome, was originally written in French], etc. -- which involved some sex and obsessive behavior, and then Richard Strauss was inspired to write an opera based on Wilde's version, and finally there was a turn-of-the-20th-century entertainer in London (Maud Allan) who made her name doing a scandalous version of Salome's dance of the 7 veils which was probably inspired by the then- current literary and operatic versions. I haven't investigated the Hollywood history of Salome but I'll bet it was equally fantasy-based. So, what did people in the 15th century know about Salome? They may have known that Salome was the stepdaughter of the king; they probably knew that John the Baptist had been preaching against the morals of the court and the queen was infuriated by his comments. Without the creative license of Strauss, et al., would they have imagined Salome as a woman of questionable virtue? I don't know. The only medieval versions I've seen of this scene are set at the king's banquet. If the viewer didn't know that Salome was doing a strip-tease then the viewer would see a girl of the noble family appearing at court, IMO. Other viewpoints welcome, of course. We can all learn from each other. :-) Going on to question #2, since the painting in question shows everyone fully dressed, right down to their hair and jewellery, I don't see any reason to re-interpret this as an informal scene. And for reasons that I stated yesterday, I don't believe that the other [non-Salome] depictions shared by list-members need to be interpreted as informal scenes. The image that provoked this discussion even seems to be embellished with 3-dimensional gold chains on the principal characters, which makes me think it is very formal indeed. If you look at the images in the link that otsisto sent http://tinyurl.com/4rk3xu you'll see many that appear in Anderson's book on Hispanic Costume. That work is generally considered to be a standard in the field and I don't remember Anderson suggesting that the verdugada is an undergarment. But I'd be happy to have input from folks who've studied this period! It seems to me that this is a short-lived fashion that is worthy of further study. Most of the evidence dates from 1470-1495 -- and we're still fascinated by it centuries later! Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
Thank you, Michaela!! I haven't seen this image before. [Now, do I know anyone going to Barcelona...?] Suzanne From: michaela de bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: June 10, 2008 7:44:34 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts message trimmed More hoops as per the Salome image: http://www.oronoz.com/leefoto.php?referencia=15099 While the ladies are probably depicted in such a way that they would read as antique or foreign to the intended audience the hooped skirts themselves do match to the texts very well. One fashion was to have hoops contrast in colour as ell as texture. Apparently a deep red (crimson I think) and green were a favourite combination. This is from Hispanic Costume and the author comparing the colours in several text (inventories and wardrobe accounts etc.) Michaela http://glittersweet.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
Robin, I think you are pushing this argument too far. There are too many women in this scene for them *all* to be attendants. What I see here is the custom of visiting the mother following delivery to congratulate her on a safe and happy outcome -- some of these ladies have just arrived, so they're not in a state of undress. In fact, I would expect them to be wearing their best on a visit of such ceremonial importance. There is another image, IIRC in a museum in France (will provide reference later), showing Isabella and her ladies in similar gowns with a sort of loose sleeveless overgown, open down the front. Such an overgown would suggest that the gown with hoops on the outside is a fashionable garment and not something that is intended to be hidden. Suzanne From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: June 10, 2008 9:12:35 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com message trimmed Although this is another Biblical image, it does make me think that perhaps the key is not simply real vs. biblical/historical/ allegorical, but also the nature of the setting and the mood the artist wanted to evoke. This appears to be a Birth of Mary image, and the scene takes place in the confines of a lady's chamber, with only other ladies in attendance. That's a circumstance where it might make sense for upper-class women to be without their formal overgowns. It may be that showing these women without overskirts reflects the artist's intent to show the intimacy of the scene. If so, the style might be real, but that doesn't mean it would be considered fashionable for women to have appeared in hoops without overskirts on the street, or at dinner, or at church. trimmed again --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts
Emma, this is definitely not underwear and it has nothing to do with Salome herself. It's more of a fad among the well-to-do, from roughly 1470 to 1500, in Spain. My guess is that the artist used this style of dress to indicate that Salome was a lady of high rank. (My Bible dictionary says that she was the king's stepdaughter; she danced for the king and his dinner guests so probably NOT naked.) There's a nice book on Spanish costume, entitled [strangely enough] Hispanic Costume 1480- 1530 by R. M. Anderson (1979), where the author has pulled together artwork of the period and grouped it by garment type to show the development of styles. It's a great place to get started if you're interested in this era. Suzanne Date: June 10, 2008 10:43:20 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Farthingale thoughts Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left, http:// www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of farthingale/ virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the Look, first the hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they became an underskirt and hidden interpretation. I was thinking about the allegorical aspect of religious art. Salome was supposed to have danced naked before she asked for the head of John the Baptist. Is it possible that the artist depicted Salome in her underwear to hint at this nakedness, and that hoops were never actually worn on the outside? (if that's true, why are hoops also visible on the ladies behind her?) Are there any other depictions, anywhere, of hoops on the outside? Any thoughts? Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] pirates? at CSA Symposium
Hello, here's a question for those of you attending the Costume Society of America annual meeting this week: If you get a chance to hear David Rickman's paper on pirates (in the session on costume in film) would you please share any resources you gained? Or tidbits of information, or anything else! I've agreed to help with a nautical-themed event in late September and I'm sure that some folks will want to do pirates. But my main area for research in the past few years has been the 16th century and I don't think I can convince anyone that the Uskoks of Senj would be a fun look [see Vecellio]. . . never mind. ;-) This will be a decidedly tongue-in-cheek event -- it's in Iowa, which is a land- locked state, and we're calling it Any Port in a Storm -- with paper boat races on the stream that runs through the park, and so on. (I expect a lot of Viking raiders to show up.) Thanks for listening, and sharing, Suzanne (When they asked me what *my* persona would be for this event, I said the woman standing on the wharf waving goodbye.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bruegel sleeve construction
I don't remember a detailed treatment of the David gown... though I think it may be referenced somewhere on Drea's site (or we talked about it in her first Costume Classroom offering on women's dress, back in 2001...?). If you mean the Bruegel sleeve, we discussed this off-and-on for several years on the RenCostumer list [from at least 2002 through the first half of 2005]. Unfortunately, that list has gone dormant and when I search for the old personal websites where people had posted their findings, I only get junk. If there are any other former RenCostumers on this list, they might remember more about it. Suzanne On Apr 28, 2008, at 11:19 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: April 28, 2008 10:51:03 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Sleeve construction: Was Detroit Inst Art - Problems Where was this from again. Got the link to work- Thanks. When studying to make my model of these (Breughel) jackets, I interpreted the sleeve to actually set into an arm hole. I see that it could also be interpreted without. I just went on the majority rules - even within this painting the similar fashion is shown with a round armhole on women's clothes. Most of the men's also are set into a round hole. Now I gotta get my hands on a good copy of the Deposition .. by Gerard David.Curious about the no waist seam... In my memory, someone had done a pretty detailed evaluation of this gown, or at least the issue on a website somewhereanyone remember?Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes
Oh, my. Tastes in art have certainly changed over the last 100 years... ;-) Here's my take on the countries: #1 - ancient Greece; #4 - Aztec; #5 - Bali (Indonesia?); #7 - Aboriginal Australia; #8 - North Africa; #14 - Hungary; #15 - Italy (Sicily?); #17 - Czech or Slovak (or Bohemian, if that's the term they used in the 1920s). I'd also add that #9 is of course *ancient* Egypt, and I'm not seeing Turkish in #11 but I don't know *what* it is [might be some strange version of India]. And #6 could be Swiss...? As far as as the dances go, my first reactions were: tango, waltz, minuet, schottische or polka. But I'm no expert -- and none of those are American-born so I don't know what the artist was getting at. Your photos did turn out well! It must have been frustrating working around all the people but you got some good images. Good luck with the titles, and let us know how it turns out. Suzanne On Apr 5, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: April 5, 2008 4:17:48 AM CDT To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Help! Please! Cultural Dancers in Costumes Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I need help...please! I am so much out of my comfort zone. I have a slideshow online of the ballroom ceiling of the Ringling's Ca d'Zan Mansion in Sarasota, Florida. The ceiling is called Dancers of the World. There are 17 hand-painted medallions of cultural dancers. I need help with what countries and dances represented in the medallions. These were painted in the 1920s exclusively for the mansion by children's book illustrator / Broadway costume and set designer, William Andrew Willy Pogany. He was also a designer for the Zeigfeld Follies. He was friends with John and Mabel Ringling, the mansion's owner. He painted the medallions in his NYC studio and then applied them to the ballroom ceiling in Florida. I also need help with the photos 18-21. The curator said that these were titled Four Corners of American-born Dances. He told me that photos 18 19 dates represented but I can't recall the dances. I am not really sure that I have the dates correct for photos 20 21. And again, do not recall the dances. I had one hour to photograph the ballroom ceiling because I was running out of time and had to photograph around tour groups. This is a popular area of the mansion and is one of the first areas that the tour groups access. I didn't even have time to take notes. When I was photographing this room, I had a couple of hours before catching my flight home. I spent a week photographing other areas of the museum. Thankfully the photos turned out good. If you are able to answer my questions, please refer to the photo number on the slideshow headers in your answer. The slideshow can be seen at http://www.costumegallery.info/ . Please make sure to use .INFO and not .COM . When you go to the slideshow, make sure to click on the enlarged view...it looks like the number 7 on the right side of the menu. Many, many thanks in advance for your help. Penny Ladnier, Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com www.costumelibrary.com www.costumeclassroom.com www.costumeencyclopedia.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits
Hey, I never told you to BUY the book! ;-) That's what Inter- Library Loan is for Suzanne From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: March 9, 2008 9:40:15 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I have one word for you: Enabler!! Book is for Sale on Amazon for a mere (!) $54.00. Regina -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:h-costume- [EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Suzanne Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 10:17 AM To: h-costume Subject: [h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I found at the library. Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] book: Prayers and Portraits
I want to share my enthusiasm for a big, lovely, art book that I found at the library. Prayers and Portraits: unfolding the Netherlandish diptych was published in 2006 in conjunction with an exhibition of the same name, prepared by the National Gallery of Art in Washington and the Koninklijk Museum voor Schone Kunsten in Antwerp, in association with Harvard University Art Museums. Authors are John Oliver Hand, Catherine A. Metzger, and Ron Spronk. From the opening paragraph of the foreword, to the final paragraph of the acknowledgments on p. 275, this book is an armchair art history seminar of the Low Countries in the 15th 16th centuries and a delight to read. Every work is discussed in terms of who made it, for whom, when, and what some of the symbols are [or may be, if there's no consensus] -- and while that's the part that contributed to my personal education, the really cool part is that each work is also represented by good color reproductions of the whole work and details thereof -- pages and pages of STUFF. This book is a treasure trove of household furnishing and dress details. Carpets, candles, books, vases, scissors...! Slippers, smocks, rosaries, rings, purses...! I can't take it all in, in one sitting. And I really want to know: are those frog closures on St. Paul's coat (on p. 131), or just a rendition of ladder lacing? ;-) (Painted in the first half of the 16th century, it reminds me a bit of the Polish fastenings of some Elizabethan doublets.) Anyway, I highly recommend this work for students of material culture as well as art history students. It's big -- it's hard to carry home in a standard-size briefcase -- and it's going to be even more difficult to return because it's so beautiful it'll hurt to give it up. :-) And there's an awesome bibliography, too, which has had me pounding out ILL requests all morning. Enjoy! Suzanne p.s. ISBN 0-300-12155-5, 339 p., published by the National Gallery of Art (Washington) in association with Yale University Press. p.p.s I know someone will ask, so here's the quote from the Foreword: In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries master artists such as Jan van Eyck, Rogier van der Weyden, and Hugo van der Goes-- working in the territory that includes present-day Belgium, The Netherlands, Luxembourg, and portions of France--produced some of the most beautiful and intriguing paintings of the period. The significance of this region at the time far outstripped its relatively small size, for its cities constituted vital hubs for commerce and banking, major sources of fine art and luxury items, and dynamic centers for a burgeoning art market. One popular art form was the Netherlandish diptych, comprising two panels hinged together like a book, on which the painted images assumed a compelling relationship to one another as a result of their pairing. ... And the final line of the Acknowledgments: Finally, we express heartfelt thanks to Dare Hartwell, Beth Miller, and Karma Tomm, who on many occasions saved us from becoming totally unhinged. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Digest 68?
Was there a Digest vol. 7, issue 68? I suspect there was, because I seem to have missed some queries that are now being answered. :-) Would someone please forward no. 68 to me? TIA, Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] digest 57?
Dear friends, Was there a Digest issue 57? I certainly didn't receive it, but I seem to be reading responses to messages in it Would someone be so kind as to forward number 57, assuming it really exists? Thanks! Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Washington Ball (or tea, or ?)
Fun! And on the same general subject, the Library of Congress has a collection of historic dance manuals that includes some etiquette books -- I know I've seen a description of how to host a Washington Ball in one of them, but it was from my own grandmother's era (1910- ish) and so doesn't answer the original question. The illustration showing a Martha Washington costume was delightfully Edwardian. ;-) If you go to http://www.loc.gov/index.html and put Washington Ball in the search box you'll probably find it... or search the American Memory section of their website for An American Dance Companion. Suzanne (who of course can NOT find the pages she printed over a year ago from that etiquette manual) On Feb 6, 2008, at 1:01 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: February 6, 2008 12:26:35 PM CST To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: 1867 Washington DC Fashion question The John Hay quote sounds like a description of an early version of historical re-enactment. There are many sites, particularly in VA that do GW Birthnight Balls and similar events. http://oha.alexandriava.gov/oha-main/gw200/oha-gw-birthnight.html http://www.washingtonbirthday.net/html/events.html I also remember Carlyle House in Alexandria VA doing them. Sounds like fun. I'd go, if DC wasnt the other end of the country. --cin Cynthia Barnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Erm, why not? But now that I've found the reference that eluded me yesterday, it may not matter. I was thinking of safeguard and according to Arnold it was an outer skirt or petticoat worn by women to protect their dress when riding. (in 'Lost from Her Majesties Back' , p. 89) So, an accessory for riding--but for the lady, not the horse. ;-) My apologies! Suzanne On Feb 4, 2008, at 1:01 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: February 3, 2008 5:08:34 PM CST To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] slops for women? Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com May I pass this question along to a a sidesaddle group on Yahoo? Susan Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for. - Ride the Dark Trail by Louis L'Amour On Feb 3, 2008, at 4:29 PM, Suzanne wrote: Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the gown from dirt? I believe they were sometimes made to match the gown. I'm blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know I've seen it somewhere Perhaps someone else on the list will know! Suzanne On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST I'm reading Dress in the Court of Henry VIII and found a strange reference to slops for women on page 64. It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess Mary each received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote, kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood. snipped I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women. What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] slops for women?
Could it be the rug that goes under a sidesaddle to protect the gown from dirt? I believe they were sometimes made to match the gown. I'm blanking on the actual term used for it, but I know I've seen it somewhere Perhaps someone else on the list will know! Suzanne On Feb 3, 2008, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: February 2, 2008 8:33:01 PM CST I'm reading Dress in the Court of Henry VIII and found a strange reference to slops for women on page 64. It's a description of the fabric given to some of Henry VII's female relatives to make mourning clothes for his funeral (in 1509). The author writes that Margaret Beaufort, Catherine of Aragon and Princess Mary each received 16 yards of cloth to make a mantle, surcote, kirtle, SLOPS (my emphasis) and hood. snipped I've heard of slops for men during this period, but not for women. What is the author describing? Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks in advance, Allison T. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] PP #41 Italian Ren gowns
I am only 5' 4 tall and I can usually lop off 5-6 inches of length from the skirt panels on these patterns (and save on the overall yardage, hooray!). So, for me, they run long. ;-) OTOH, I found that one of the back-closing bodices ran large while a front-closing one was decidedly tight -- which makes no sense at all! But I'm also flat-chested so that may skew the fit. These patterns are a pain to work with but the results are usually good. I always get compliments, even on the gown that's too big in the bust. (Thank goodness for voluminous Italian chemises!) I spend more time *preparing* to cut with these patterns... my solution for the confusing layout of the multi-size pieces is to carefully go over the lines of the one I want with an ultra-fine point Sharpie in a particular color, then trace those colored lines onto whatever tracing paper I have at hand (I prefer Swedish tracing paper but haven't seen it for sale recently, so have been using cheap interfacing) to make a permanent pattern of whichever view I want in whichever size I want. That way I always have the originals for comparison; by using different colors of markers on the originals I don't get confused over which pieces I've used before (or not). I also use the colored marker to label each traced piece as it's created. This is just for the bodice and sleeves -- sInce the skirt panels are fairly simple, I just fold those to fit and draw around them on the fabric with tailor's chalk; I don't bother making new skirt pieces each time. Did I mention that I'm an extremely visual learner? LOL, Suzanne From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: January 6, 2008 3:00:38 PM CST ... For those of you who have used this pattern, how does the sizing run?(Large, small?) And for that matter, how do you figure out what size you are? I'm not seeing it in the instructions. I hesitate to assume what they say is a 10 will fit me. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume related Christmas gifts
My family is, apparently, no longer willing to feed my obsession with historic costuming. :-) I received several nice gifts of jewellery and clothing (suitable for office wear) and some lotion, etc. from the Aveda Salon... but not a single book or pattern, or even a gift certificate to Jo-Ann's! The big surprise came a few days before Christmas, when my parents arrived. They walked in carrying a box of old magazines and wondered if I wanted them. I am now the proud owner of bound copies of Godey's Lady's Book from 1856 and January-June 1863, plus loose issues May June 1865 and July 1871, and a bound copy of Peterson's Magazine from 1881. I was stunned! They are all in rather fragile condition with broken spines, pages torn and stained -- and I was distressed to see that someone had cut out many of the articles in the 1856 volume. (My mother couldn't remember which side of the family she inherited them from, or when. Maybe it's better if I don't know!) Also, someone used the back of some of the plates to work on their arithmetic homework but at least it's in pencil. I suppose there are cleaner copies available electronically for all of these volumes but I'm thrilled to think that I have my very own paper copies. I'll be making photocopies of the ballads that appear at the beginning of each volume and I'll probably try to construct some of the accessories... March 1856 has something called a Polka Jacket trimmed with imitation ermine that I find strangely appealing... you have been warned! ;-) Suzanne [who mostly does 15th 16th C. but has started dabbling in the mid-19th C. since moving to Iowa last year] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Somewhat OT (?)
The only thing that comes to mind is the old trick of placing ice cubes along the line of the depression, waiting for it to completely melt, blot up the residue and then vacuum after it dries. This works on carpet (after you've moved the furniture, don'tcha know) but that may be because a lot of carpet these days is made from unnatural fibres. Note that there is no heat involved in this method -- I don't know if it would work on wool. Good luck! Suzanne On Dec 13, 2007, at 5:30 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Kimiko Small [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: December 13, 2007 5:11:55 PM CST To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Somewhat OT (?) Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Hi Laurie, Have you tried simply steaming the wool, and letting it sit to dry, steam, dry... maybe even using a toothbrush or other brush to gently bring up the nap a bit? Steam on wool has done wonders for me. Kimiko --- zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is no color discrepancy or wear marks so the flattened fabric is the only obstacle to using this as the fabric. One thing I've learned on this list is that there is a vast amount of experience of ALL sorts among you. Can anyone suggest a cure for the pocket depression? Thanks in advance, Laurie ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] the journal of the Costume Society
Dear Penny and Sunny (and others), Costume is an academic journal and so more likely to be found in an academic library. You can ask your [college or public] library if they will do article requests via InterLibrary Loan. My library gets them electronically and sends the patron a link; it's up to the patron to Save the file or print it. You can see the contents of the volume (note that there is a typo -- vol. 41 is the 2007 issue) at http://www.costumesociety.org.uk/journal.html The IngentaConnect website -- the platform that makes Maney publications available electronically -- indicates that it is possible to buy articles with a credit card... I haven't looked into this but I suspect that it is very expensive. :-) You can also look up (or ask your librarian to look up) the journal in WorldCat and find out which library in your area has a subscription. Then make a trip over there and make your own copies! I searched for Costume the journal of the Costume Society (because costume is much too broad a term) and found that there are 4 libraries in my state that have subscriptions -- 3 of them are state- supported schools and so I have the privilege of using their periodical reading rooms. Also, some states have a State Library system that can do ILL for any state employee -- it's worth checking into, if you think you qualify. http://www.worldcat.org/ And for those of you who attend the International Congress on Medieval Studies in Kalamazoo in May: last year, Maney had a table in the vendor hall and they just happened to be selling copies of the latest issue for $40. I have my fingers crossed that they will be offering vol. 41 at the next Congress! Suzanne p.s. Penny, don't worry about RSS. It's just another way to get early notification of things that interest you. Your kids (or librarian) can probably explain it to you. :-) And vol. 42 of Costume won't be published 'til next summer so I think that website is suspicious. On Nov 6, 2007, at 1:01 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sunny, I checked into this for a while last night. I was confused like you. I also do not understand RRS. I found Vol. #42 on a website for almost $75 USD. To become a UK Costume Society member from the U.S. is $50. This price includes the journal. I am interested in the journal's article about first communion/ confirmation dresses. Penny Ladnier, ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cutting for All! [long]
There've been some great book recommendations on the list lately -- and that reminds me that I never sent my review of Cutting for All! : the sartorial arts, related crafts, and the commercial paper pattern; a bibliographic reference guide for designers, technicians, and historians by Kevin L. Seligman. As we suspected, it's an annotated bibliography. As with all such products, its usefulness decreases with time. And this was published in 1996 -- before a lot of us had internet access. There are other ways to acquire this information now. That's not to say that this is a bad book, just that it's not an essential purchase for a home library. It's worth a look if you can find it in your library or get it on Inter-Library Loan. The first chapter, on the History of the development of the publication of books, professional journals, and the emergence of the paper pattern industry is 46 pages long, profusely illustrated, and quite interesting. The author tells us that the earliest surviving work on cutting was published in 1580 in Spain; that the first French work is dated 1671, the first English work appeared in 1789 and the first in America in 1809. So most of the chapter deals with the 19th century, with just a page or two on the 20th century. The second chapter is Chronological listings and has exactly 3 publications listed for 1500-1599, one of which is Alcega in the original and one of which is the English translation published in 1979... oh well. There are 3 Spanish publications and one French listed for 1600-1699. There are a whopping eleven listings for 1700-1799 but 2 of them are 20th century articles about extant garments. For the 19th century, he subdivides by decade with just a page or two at first then it really takes off by 1880. The chapter ends with 1989 (another drawback to bibliographies is that they are often slightly out of date by the time they see print!). Aside from the exceptions noted above, the listings in each chronological section are contemporary works *not* historical treatments that happened to be published in a particular decade. Works by Janet Arnold, Dorothy Burnham, Jean Hunnisett, Blanche Payne, et al., appear in the Costume and dance chapter later in the book. Other chapters list Professional journals (American and English) published for the professional tailor and dressmaker; Journal articles (American, English, Other) from costume related professional journals that feature pattern drafts as part of the article; and various subjects such as Folk and national dress, Millinery and Commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs. The indexes are extensive. Each entry is brief, with only a sentence or two to describe the work; sometimes he lists a specific library that has the work (the U.S. Library of Congress, Harvard, The British Library, the New York Public Library, etc.); non- English language materials are noted but there's very little coverage of non-English language journals (I was surprised that I could only find one of Janet Arnold's Waffen-und Kostumkunde articles). The indexes are extensive -- about 40 pages worth. I would have liked to see some cross-references (in the chronological listing for 1944, I found Short-cuts to sewing success by the DuBarry Patttern Company; in the chapter on pattern companies, I found that DuBarry Patterns were manufactured by Simplicity as the house brand for Woolworth's from 1934 to 1946 and no mention of their other publication) but that's probably because I'm lazy. ;-) My final observation is that there is no attempt to evaluate any of these sources. They are all presented without comment as to their veracity and/or usefulness. He did borrow annotations from other bibliographies but these are indicated by letter codes that are explained in the Introduction. Questions? Suzanne On Oct 17, 2007, at 4:44 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know anything about this book? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0809320061/thecostumersmani Zuzana ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: ...what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Verity is attired in: a generic Italian Ren cotton chemise based on one in Cut My Cote, and the orange polyester satin 1490's Florentine dress that I made for CostumeCon 25 [the challenge merely said to wear orange...]. Both pieces are there to remind me to get to work on the mending! I have a bad habit of stepping on my own hems when going up stairs. On the cutting table, I've got the pieces of a black silk split skirt pinned together [The Sewing Workshop's Tahoe Pant pattern]. In a bag next to the sewing machine are the pieces of an Elizabethan high- necked smock that I'm no closer to finishing than I was in April Suzanne On Oct 5, 2007, at 7:29 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Subject: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? I'm bored with the medical, trademarks copyrights discussions. Any chance we can return to our regularly scheduled topic? Please? What's your dressmakers dummy wearing? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] copyright and copying
In my experience, U.S. libraries are just as strict about notifying patrons as Kinko's is about notifying paying customers. The difference is that the libraries post the legal requirements and then allow the patron to take responsibility for their own actions. (Of course, I still reprimand anyone I catch not following the policy...!) We aren't doing their copying for them; we *do* want them to know the law and abide by it. Suzanne From: Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 5, 2007 3:28:31 AM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] copyright Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com I agree that this discussion has gone on long enough, but... No library determines US copyright law. What you are describing is merely the policy of your particular library. Fran I don't know what Kinko's is, but in a university library copying of a section of a book (1 chapter or 5%) for private study is perfectly legal. Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby Being in the UK, ours observes British copyright law! Sorry if I confused the issue. Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: scanners, costume/fashion history
Check with your college library. Ours has a free scanner for patrons to use--you can e-mail the pics to yourself but not print them in the library. I imagine you could create some sort of presentation on your computer once you've got the images loaded. Has anyone else tried this? Suzanne From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: October 3, 2007 11:18:53 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] costume photos Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Sylvia Rognstad wrote: Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/ fashion history cds? I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so the pictures come out decently. Use a scanner. It's much easier to get a good image than with a camera. You can find them anywhere, computer stores, department stores, office supply, and they start under $100 -- sometimes under $50. If you're going to be using it to take many pictures, it may be a worthwhile investment. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Tarrant's The Development of Costume
This is part of a series published by The Heritage: Care- Preservation-Management programme in the UK, aimed at museum professionals. I find it a very useful introduction to the study of dress -- or as the author says, Why people wear clothes, -- for both fashion history and museum practice classes. You may already know much of this information, but here it's presented in a well- written, well-organised single package with excellent illustrations. Tarrant writes that The theme of the book is the structure of western European dress, and she starts with fibres and looms and moves on through construction techniques and shaping, with separate chapters for women's and men's styles from the 16th century to the late 20th century, plus some useful bits about haute couture and ready-made clothes. There are 2 brief chapters on museum display at the end. There's also a good bibliography (still useful in spite of being 13 years out of date). I think it's worth the $42 [at Amazon.com], even for a paperback. The publisher's blurb says, Clothing is the outward and visible sign of taste, discrimination, social attitudes and status. ... What then does clothing 'mean', and how should it be understood? Naomi Tarrant answers the question not so much from an abstract theory but from the physical reality of the clothes themselves. That's probably as good a summary as anything I can tell you! Suzanne From: Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: August 6, 2007 10:30:04 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Book: The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant The Development of Costume, Naomi Tarrant is a book I am thinking of purchasing but it is over 40.00 where I am looking at before the discount. Does anyone have this book? What do you think of her viewpoints since she is actually working with the garments instead of the theory of the garment? Chiara ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: books on history of cosmetics
The Artifice of Beauty is a great book! Mine was a Christmas gift, but I know that they got it from Amazon. Suzanne From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: August 2, 2007 8:09:19 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Plucked, Shaved Braided Mary wrote: Susan asked if this has actually been printed. I can't tell. Given that Worldcat can show books ordered but not yet processed into a library's collection, a book ordered before the presses roll could show up in a catalog After publication has been cancelled. Very annoying, but possible. Removing unreceived books from the data stream has a Much lower priority than taking care of the new stuff, especially when you're still hoping that the item will get scheduled finally arrive. Most Tech Services depts. that I'm familiar with run such procedures once or twice a year, rather than monthly. So, the lag can be quite long. That's why I recommended calling the library involved. From the messages in the digests since I wrote that, it doesn't look good! Drat it, I was going to recommend purchase to my Scadian buddy in selection. mutter, grumble She was saying to me just last night that we had very little on the history of hairdressing! sigh I know it has been mentioned before, but The Artifice of Beauty by Sally Pointer is actually very handy. http://www.play.com/Books/Books/4-/665654/-/Product.html? source=7995engine=yahookeyword=the+artifice+of+beauty I am sure there are American sites with this information. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: h-costume Digest, Vol 6, Issue 360
Amazon NEVER carried it. I had it on order for over a year and they finally said it was Not Available. I assume that the book never made it to publication. (A friend told me that one of Turudich's other desperately-hard-to-find titles was pulled by the author because she wasn't satisfied with the first printing.) Suzanne On Jul 31, 2007, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: July 31, 2007 6:33:57 AM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Book search? http://www.allbookstores.com/author/Daniela_Turudich.html Amazon no longer carries it. -Original Message- A friend of mine is looking for the following book. Any ideas? She is in the U.K. so Library searches in the U.K. are preferable, but she would actually like to buy a copy. Plucked, Shaved Braided: Medieval and Renaissance Beauty and Grooming Practices 1000-1600 Authors: Daniela Turudich, Laurie J. Welch Format: Paperback, 198 pages Publication Date: June 2003 Publisher: Streamline Pr ISBN-10: 193006408X ISBN-13: 9781930064089 Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: youtube film
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: June 13, 2007 12:04:00 PM CDT To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective snipped http://tinyurl.com/23mle4 Enjoy! Anne Am I the only one that thinks this is quite horrible? Suzi Well, no. I didn't enjoy it either. I can appreciate the technique but IMO it's not pretty or informative. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th century Spain
Have you tried this link? http://jessamynscloset.com/ It's the only one I have -- but the site hasn't been updated recently so I wonder if she's moved elsewhere? HTH, Suzanne On May 28, 2007, at 1:00 PM, From: Peggy Hogan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: May 28, 2007 9:14:44 AM CDT To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] 16th century Spain Hi, Can anyone tell me how to get in touch with Maddalena Jessamyn di Piemonte, OL I'm researching 16th century Spanish Basque dress many thanks ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: museum listings in magazines
I read the listings in The Magazine ANTIQUES but you probably already know about that one. (Public libraries often file it under 'A' because the word antiques appears in a much larger font size than the rest of the title; academic libraries may list it differently) I don't know that I'd bother with Orient Express -- when I worked in a public library, we found that it was seldom used -- YMMV. They might want to list it on the Costume Society of America website, but I suppose the institution would need to belong to CSA first. Actually, I think you've pretty much got it covered already. :-) Suzanne Date: May 19, 2007 12:22:35 PM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] A question for the List Mind: Kimono ... hello folks, The local art Museum is putting together a Kimono show next year. I'm working on their request for a list of magazines to advertise it in and/or send anouncements to. They asked for magazines on Japan. I'm also going to give them textiles, fiberart. So, what magazines do you think they should hear about? Just off the top of my head: Fiberarts Threads Sew News Flying Needle Orient Express Oriental Art Japan Plus Japan Journal any number of museum related mags, which they probably know better than I do I'm hoping for you to give me relatively less well known historical society hobbyist titles. So what do you read, that prints listings of museum exhibits? I'll be grateful for anything you can think of! Thanks! Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] thread holders
On Apr 25, 2007, at 1:00 PM, you wrote: When i saw the picture of the holy family, and the sewing basked i thoaght, could this thread holder simply just have ben made from a piece of scratch linnen? I know that paper was quite expensive in medieval times. Bjarne [This is my all-time favorite depiction of the holy family.] Since Joseph is a carpenter, I think it's likely that it's a piece of scrap wood. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost]CostumeCon, now OT librarian in-jokes
I've obviously been attending the *wrong* conferences! [Although the poster committee for Technical Services did place a Warrior Librarians poster in the hall outside my door] Mary, I love your tag line. Suzanne LeSar Acquisitions Coordinator Parks Library, Iowa State University On Apr 10, 2007, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Suzanne said:... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too! (Where else could I get away with that?) You could do it at any library conference in North America, believe me, we'd adore it! Mary Periodicals Department Stark County District Library 715 Market Ave. N. Canton, Ohio 44702-1018 (330)452-0665 x 5750 [EMAIL PROTECTED] We don't have issues... we have subscriptions. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] even more CC25 photos
Thanks, Andy! I got to see some outfits I missed And there's even a pic of me, Friday night (2nd page, 6th row) in my tie-dye t-shirt. Suzanne On Apr 8, 2007, at 1:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Subject: [h-cost] even more CC25 photos... John O'Halloran (our stage manager for next year) took a bunch and posted them to his flickr account http://www.flickr.com/photos/johno/collections/ Lots of pictures of Historical and Friday Night Social, less of FSF (none) because he was working the stage then. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Robin's Goth Fitted Dress
It was superb. I did a double-take and then giggled all the way down the hall. Suzanne (in the Breugel blue peasant get-up on Saturday) On Apr 5, 2007, at 7:42 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Catherine Kinsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: April 5, 2007 8:14:19 AM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: Back from Costume Con Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com And ending with Don and me in our Goth-ic, already posted here. I probably missed some h-costumers in my sporadic IDs. Identify yourselves! More to come. --Robin I would have spotted Don a mile away but I don't think I would have recognized you in this ensemble, GFD or not :). Catherine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CostumeCon
On Apr 3, 2007, at 8:05 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Costume-Con will be in San Jose in 2008, Baltimore in 2009, and Milwaukee in 2010. I have been asked to speak at the latter, but I don't know yet if it conflicts with Kalamazoo. Somehow I think the Goth Fitted Dress would not exactly work for the International Medieval Congress ... --Robin But think how we could change the whole tone of the Saturday dance, eh? Seriously, I was disappointed to hear them announce that the Milwaukee con will be in May instead of April. I thought the Milwaukee venue might be doable for me since I live in the Midwest, and I was going to suggest that they schedule more of the historical and ethnic sessions, but I'll always choose Kalamazoo first so never mind. It was a fun weekend. I'm now inspired to make more and better historical gear... and if I ever go to another CostumeCon, I'll be sure to bring Conan the Librarian along, too! (Where else could I get away with that?) Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
I've been enjoying this thread quite a bit. I graduated in 1972, in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Some of our experiences were similar: When I started 7th grade, in 1966, all the girls with delusions of style rolled their skirts on the bus on the way to school. The dress code said skirts had to touch your knee but I don't remember anyone ever being sent home for short skirts. They must've tossed the hemline rule the following year because I remember skirts going to thigh-length--but we still had to wear dresses no matter what. By the summer of 1968, I couldn't wear off-the-rack dresses unless they came with matching bloomers--which some did!--because I'm long- waisted. I remember vividly walking around with one hand holding my books (no backpacks! that was too casual) and the other tugging at my hem in hopes that no one would see my underwear. The other wierd thing about rising hemlines is that pantyhose were fairly new and the quality wasn't good; they didn't stretch much and the dark panty part was always showing at my hemline. Yuck. In the fall of 1968 (9th grade for me) we petitioned to be allowed to wear slacks to school, based on the argument that skirts had just gotten waaay too short. We were turned down, of course, by a school board made up of adults who feared we would become just like those riotous students on campus So in the spring of 1969 we organized a protest: a bunch of us made MAXI skirts and agreed to wear them on the same day, accessorized with love beads and flowers in our hair -- none of which was forbidden by the dress code, so they couldn't send us home. Pretty soon thereafter, we were allowed to wear tailored slacks (not jeans!) to school. By 1971, jeans were allowed but I don't remember exactly when the transition happened. I had the coolest red-white--blue pin-striped bell-bottom Levi's (which my children still do not believe, LOL). Shorts were not allowed, of course, at any time. While hemlines weren't very often measured, I do remember that boys' hair was checked to make sure it didn't touch their collars That must've changed sometime around 1970 By 1972, the boys who were able g were wearing moustaches as well. Thanks for the memory trip! Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: translation help
Hand is what I've always said... but I'm a fifty-something American Mid-Westerner. (Is your co-editor English?) OTOH, just a few years ago I took a class on Care Storage of Museum Textiles (approximate title) and we all used the word hand when speaking of textile analysis, as you have in the first example. The second example would read well enough but I would probably spend a few seconds wondering why the author didn't say hand. Just my opinion, of course! Suzanne Subject: [h-cost] Translation help I need reactions from a sampling of avid readers of textile literature, and where better to find it than here? I'm editing a paper on textile analysis written by someone whose native language is not English. Some of the terms and idioms have come through a bit odd, and part of my job is to smooth it out so as not to jar the reader. The author is listing characteristics of fabric, including its appearance, handle, and properties. Obviously handle is the word that doesn't ring true here. My co-editor pencilled in feel. The fabric-user in me thinks hand, but perhaps that is not so well-understood a term. If you read either of these phrases in an article, would it pull you up short, or would it make sense to you? ...the properties, hand, and appearance of a finished fabric. ...the properties, feel, and appearance of a finished fabric. Other suggestions welcome. I don't think texture will work in context, because that turns out to be one of many factors in the handle. --Robin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: books we want
I think it was a wish, not a reality. (I'm still waiting for delivery of the original! It says on order whenever I check.) We got something at work today about Chaucer and academic clothing... will post again after I've had a chance to handle it. ;-) Suzanne On Mar 27, 2007, at 2:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speaking of books... someone here mentioned the possibility of a male version of the Eleonora of Toledo book... anyone know more? Thanks- Monica ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Re: CSA symposium
I am having serious conference envy This looks waaay more interesting than the American Library Association conference I'm going to in June. ;-) I reallyreallyreally want to go to this. Sigh. Have fun, y'all! Suzanne On Mar 17, 2007, at 2:00 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: March 17, 2007 7:45:18 AM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Costume Society of America Living History Showcase Once again, the Costume Society of America encourages participation in the Living History Showcase at the annual symposium. This year's symposium, Faires, Fiestas and Expositions: Costume as Cultural Exchange, will be at the Omni San Diego Hotel May 29-June 3, 2007. The showcase will be during the opening reception Wednesday evening, 5-6 p.m. This informal venue gives those of us who create apparel for living history interpretations a chance to show our handiwork to other costume enthusiasts. As an interpreter myself, I have lobbied for an opportunity for us to display our works. snipped ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] AG Felicity doll
For research, try Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1 ... c. 1660-1860 as well as Four Hundred Years of Fashion from the VA (1984) and The Art of Dress: clothes and society 1500-1914 by Jane Ashelford (The National Trust, 1996). Those titles are common enough that you may find them in a public library collection and Ashelford has a chapter on children's clothes. There are a couple of nice books from the Williamsburg collections, too, but I don't have the info at hand right now -- maybe you'll get that from someone else on the list. This isn't my area of interest but my daughter did have a Felicity doll back in the early 90's Unfortunately, the AG website is temporarily unavailable so I wasn't able to see the current patterns that they have for sale. If you find you need the Felicity patterns but can't get them--contact me off list. :-) Suzanne From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: March 11, 2007 5:10:25 PM CDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Trying to build more accurate AG doll clothes... Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Greetings :) My six year old daughter is so spoiled. We recently gave her an American Girl doll, Felicity. Felicity is 18 tall, and is the centerpiece of a collection of books, furniture, clothes, etc., all styled after the American Colonial era. The spoiled part became apparent when she looked at the cute little gown that the doll had on and asked me if I could please make her some *real* clothes. So, now I am on a quest to try to build some at least reasonably correctly styled 18th century clothing that would have been appropriate wear in the Colonies. If anyone could please point me in the direction of correct shapes for pattern pieces I would appreciate it. If we were talking Elizabethan or earlier, I could probably swing it, but I am just not familiar with this period at all. Is there an equivalent to Alcega out there for this period? I am well aware that there are patterns out there made by the big companies, as well as Pleasant Company, and I have some of both. I just want to try for a higher level of accuracy and I feel like I need to at least see how the pieces were properly shaped...not to mention I have no clue of how the things even really go together so far as layering goes. And of course, the little dear wants proper underpinnings for her dolly...(did children wear corsets in this era?) :) ~Kimberley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze]
Regina said: I like David Brown Book Company because their marketing director knows me by name from all the times I have written him to point out he is an Agent of Satan (His duties being largely ceremonial) and a pusher. I've also had wonderful dealings and gotten great books at prices that I could never have afforded otherwise. Suzanne responds: LOL. If they can get the book in time to bring some copies to Kalamazoo, I'll happily join you in the name-calling, no matter the price. (Yeah, I know it's not medieval but what the heck -- last year a couple of the booksellers were pushing the Tudor Tailor book.) I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company. I even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!! I have been waiting more or less patiently while it sits in In Process limbo... and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank history professor emeritus had beaten me to it. G. If it weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not allowed to say that I know patron information like that. So I'll have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and Recall the book! (Just call me Conan the Librarian.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] [OT] borrowers' privileges [was DBBC etc.]
Yeah, but professors get to keep books 'til the end of the academic year. I'll have to wait 'til mid-May. The Recall feature is for items that someone reallyreallyreally needs for research; I don't apply it lightly and I already hit this professor once last semester for something I WANTED. (Not that he knows who requested it, because the library privacy laws work both ways.) Suzanne From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: February 6, 2007 9:02:11 PM CST To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] DBBC [re: Moda a Firenze] Reply-To: Historical Costume h-costume@mail.indra.com If you put a hold on it, he can't renew it, right? So, he'll have to return it or face HUGE late fees. If your library doesn't charge late fees, drop him a note saying they do now, it's a new policy, to try and encourage him to return it. :-) snipped Suzanne said: I love getting my weekly e-mails from David Brown Book Company. I even persuaded my library to buy the Luttrell Psalter!! I have been waiting more or less patiently while it sits in In Process limbo... and then yesterday when I went to put a hold on it so that I can be the first one to drag it home, I discovered that a blankity-blank history professor emeritus had beaten me to it. G. If it weren't for library privacy laws, I would march over to his office and demand to know why he's always after MY books... but I'm not allowed to say that I know patron information like that. So I'll have to be quiet and wait 'til the semester ends and he's forced to return everything -- or until I just can't take it any more and Recall the book! (Just call me Conan the Librarian.) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CostumeCon and projects
Answering more than one question at once: Yes, I plan on going to CostumeCon. Mostly for the Netherton sequence ;-) but what the heck, might as well stay for Sunday, too. Since I've never gone before, what do I need to know ahead of time? Costuming is a hobby, not my profession, so I'm a little worried about how I'll fit in. Like, what's a hall costume??!? I'm assuming that we all wear our stuff all the time but that you keep the competition main entries under wraps until the last minute, so anything else is a hall costume... is that about right? And because of CostumeCon, I've bumped the orange Italian Ren aka Hobby Lobby Florentine (no spinach, just cabbage) to the top of my list of projects to complete this year. For the Sunday ORANGE hall costume contest. Suzanne p.s. can't register until next month when the bank balance recovers from Christmas--sorry! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Anyone remember this dress?
On Dec 31, 2006, at 1:13 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Once -- probably in the late 70s but maybe the early 80s -- I saw a picture of a really over-the-top outrageous gown. My memory, all these years, has been that it was Cher wearing something by Mackie on the cover of Time. Robin, The dress I'm remembering was white... and I can't remember where I saw it, but it was a stunning photo. I stared at it for quite a long time, trying to figure out how it stayed up! When did Cher do her first farewell tour? It might have been a publicity photo for that. And I would not have said it was a Parade cover shot, except that in that time frame I didn't subscribe to any of the glossy national magazines so I don't know where else I would've seen it. Hmmm... this is a nice puzzle to start the new year, LOL. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] re: The other Boleyn girl
You said: http://natalieportman.com/npcom.php I wont say I am an expert or anything but those costumes are kinda cheesy. That pattern in the fabric screams poly to me, it is definitely not period, and that ladder lacing up the front with the stomacker is stolen from some italian city ;-). Not period at all. The attifets? are awful. the crescent is not long enough and should cover their hair and go more down to their ears. I wonder if they glued natalies on, looks like it just sits there. The profile is pretty good though as long as you don't look at them closely. I am however looking forward to seeing the movie sometime, since that is a period that does interest me. Are padded pleats period for tudor, thought they were later? Tania and I say: Kinda cheesy is right. :-) It looks like they used that old Vogue ballgown pattern from a few years back (when Shakespeare in Love was all the rage) and forgot to put coifs under the French hoods [not attifets--as you noted/questioned]. Although I admit I'm not the local expert on French hoods! I'll probably go see the movie, but I don't imagine my family will come with me 'cause they hate it when I groan in the theatre, LOL. Suzanne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] scans from MMA Bulletin
Thank you for this generous offer! The women's 19th C. and 20th C. outfits, et al., might be useful for teaching purposes at the university where I work -- but I'm a librarian, not a Textiles Clothing professor, so would you be willing to send scans to me and I can contact the right people? (Well, to be honest, we'd probably like to see everything! But I don't want to seem greedy.) If it's too much trouble then never mind Suzanne (You may use the address I'm posting from, OR [EMAIL PROTECTED]) - Original Message - From: Helen Pinto [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 09, 2006 11:18 PM Subject: [h-cost] Met Museum Bulletin In the process of (finally) unpacking my books, I've been finding things that could use a home other than mine. I have a Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin from back in the days when they sent members these glossy books every quarter. It's from the costume collection and contains large, high-quality pictures of garments from 1695 through the early 1950's, including microphotographs of some of the embroidered detail of the garments. It's nice to look at, but way past anything I'm really interested in. So... I will scan and send photos of anything that someone fancies, and the whole thing can belong to the first person who asks for it. (You have two weeks to ask for the pictures, then I'll mail it.) The highlights: - Complete embroidered woman's dress from 1695 - Four men's 18th c embroidered coats, one uncut, one with original embroidery cartoon, one with pants and vest - Men's banyans - Assorted women's 18c dresses, one with panniers, most sack- backed, all embroidered or hand-painted, 1740's - 1795 - Assorted women's 19c outfits, day dresses, evening wear, several from each decade - Assorted women's 20c outfits, evening wear, suits, etc, up to the 50's -Helen/Aidan ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
