Re: [hexayurt] THE BOEING OF BIRD FLU — a long read on the new epidemic

2024-05-05 Thread Dan March
Hey Vinay!
Thanks for continuing to include me in this thread.  I was marginally aware
of this, but wasn't following religiously.  I was hoping that after the
Covid debacle, the CDC was getting an impactful, meaningful
review/re-work.  It did get a new director... but...

Did you follow the series of reports on NPR's "Forum" show by Alexis
Madrigal?  He and a crew of volunteers wrestled with the problem of very
uneven case reporting and ended up feeding information you would think they
would be getting directly and easily.  I just started another letter to him
basically asking him if he worried that he'll be tempted to move into the
gap - again.  I was hoping that getting a new director would help but I
think this problem is tougher than the Boeing one because of the fractured
governance situation - state, local, etc. all able to go their own way to
the detriment of society at large.

And HexaYurts as emergency shelter.  What's your latest version?  I've
started dabbling in easy, portable, on-site-assemblable, more durable
designs.

Best,
Dan





On Sun, May 5, 2024 at 6:15 AM Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) <
hexay...@gmail.com> wrote:

>
> ((Excuse the interruption this is important. On aocial here
>
> https://x.com/leashless/status/1787106348011765876?s=46=2M36wjuULZupUvqhKIoehA
> )
>
> THE BOEING OF BIRD FLU — a long read on the new epidemic
>
> A bird flu epidemic has started in Texas. It is spreading from cows to
> humans and other species (cats). Things are going badly. It is too soon to
> tell if this is the start of a major public health crisis.
>
> The pandemic response has severe management problems of a kind
> recognisable in general principle from the Boeing plane safety crisis.
>
> We do not know if there is human-to-human spread yet and severe data
> gathering issues mean we likely will not know early enough to contain an
> outbreak.
>
> The most experienced people appear to be the most worried. That is usually
> a bad sign in a crisis.
>
> Links and quotes below.
>
> Quote begins:
>
> “But Russo and many other vets have heard anecdotes about workers who have
> pink eye and other symptoms—including fever, cough, and lethargy—and do not
> want to be tested or seen by doctors. James Lowe, a researcher who
> specializes in pig influenza viruses, says policies for monitoring exposed
> people vary greatly between states. >>> “I believe there are probably lots
> of human cases,” he says, noting that most likely are asymptomatic.“ <<<
>
> Quote ends.
>
> Comment:
>
> I won’t bore you with the horror show of the growing list of other species
> and what percentage of them die of the damn thing when infected: read up on
> elephant seals if you want to scare yourself silly.
>
> There was a global public health shitshow on covid. Bird flu spreading in
> humans could be a lot more severe. Public health response will likely be
> even less effective.
>
> We do not know how likely a human-to-human bird flu epidemic is. However
> limited cow-to-cat transmission and cow-to-human transmission appear
> well-established on current data.
>
> How would we know about human-to-human spread?
>
> Read on:
>
>
> https://www.science.org/content/article/u-s-government-hot-seat-response-growing-cow-flu-outbreak
>
> Quote begins:
>
> “In the supplementary appendix, researchers said they weren't able to do a
> follow-up investigation on the sick worker or other exposures among workers
> at the farm. They also noted that they weren't able to collect follow-up
> specimens from the patient to track viral loads or shedding duration. "We
> were also unable to collect acute or convalescent sera to assess
> seroconversion in the dairy farm worker or household contacts," the group
> wrote.
>
> A spokesperson for the Texas Department of State Health Services told CBS
> News that the Texas dairy worker came to a Texas field office for testing
> and did not disclose the name of their workplace.
> …
> Data gaps but strong evidence of cow-to-human spread
> …
> "Sequence data from the farm where the infected dairy farm worker was
> exposed to presumably infected was not available," they wrote, noting that
> the sequencing picture so far has gaps and suggests the virus may have been
> circulating undetected for some time.”
>
> Quote ends.
>
>
> https://www.cidrap.umn.edu/avian-influenza-bird-flu/case-report-bolsters-evidence-h5n1-avian-flu-spread-cow-texas-dairy-worker
>
>
> Comment:
>
> We may already have missed human-to-human bird flu transmission in this
> situation. We just don’t know.
>
> However.
>
> The broad principle of “early detection, early response” is well
> understood as the keystone of handling novel infectious diseases. To
> understand more about that approach see
> https://www.ted.com/participate/ted-prize/prize-winning-wishes/instedd
>
> We are likely now past the “early detection, early response” phase of the
> current bird flu epidemic in cows. It is widespread and has been spreading
> for months.
>
> We may 

Re: [hexayurt] Hexayurts for homeless Californians - anybody on the ground with contacts?

2020-08-06 Thread Dan March
I think all this noodling over homeless solutions gets political real
fast... like the moment any kind of organization or "meaningful" scale
presents itself.  It seems to me that this, at the very least, means
coordinating with some kind of larger body - such as a larger organization
already assisting with domicile-related matters, a disaster-related outfit
or government at some level.

Personally, I'd like to see a well thought out path to a good homelessness
solution and contribute where I can to something that will grow organically
and rapidly while wasting as little material and human resources as
possible.  SIPs do seem like they'd fit into such a plan.  I wonder what it
would be like to consider making them if none were available/economic.  I
wonder about designing a flexible transformative capability into them -
allowing them to be used initially, say, in temporary situations and later
gracefully re-used for more permanent structures.

When I got orders for large numbers of hexayurts a few years ago, I set up
a very simple manufacturing facility - hiring and training a few guys who
were probably pretty much like many homeless types - addiction problems,
some prior incarceration, few skills... However, with good simple set-ups
and training their first-off yurt (with bevel cuts etc.) was +- 1/16"
accuracy on the whole assembled, taped polyiso structure.  Could solve a
couple of problems at once...

On Thu, Aug 6, 2020 at 3:16 AM Cabinz Admin  wrote:

> agree re fire risk, but the materials used in tent cities are a fire risk
> anyway ie tent / tarps
> to reduce fire risk , Could you get clearance stock  / grade b or even
> used of the metal sided kingspan or other  US brand like we have been
> working on on other thread I started here
> https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/hexayurt/WWoBjoC3_fg
> . I appreciate this then has to be screwed / bolted together
>
>
> On Monday, 3 August 2020 15:58:38 UTC+1, BurnerDan wrote:
>>
>> Hey Guys ~
>>
>> While I do think that the regular hexayurt polyiso panel design works
>> well for Burning Man, I have to confess being a bit nervous about its being
>> used for general homelessness on the streets.  First of all, there is fire
>> risk that we're able to communicate to Burners.  Among other things, that
>> translates into "no cooking" or other open fire in such a yurt.  It's hard
>> for me to imagine that not happening in rain/winter on the street.
>>
>> Some city/large org sponsorship of areas such as secure outdoor parking
>> have appeared, often with showers & toilets.  If these also had communal
>> kitchens and the city/org would set some sort of standard for a yurt (which
>> might not be that hard since they have to deal with tents and sorting any
>> liability re. that anyway. There may also be issues about a
>> possible/eventual waste stream from the yurts since at least the Burner
>> design is so temporary.  So perhaps such entities would be best to work
>> with to get agreement on a design envelope at least acknowledging these and
>> any other issues so we're all clear on this kind of thing.
>>
>> Best,
>> Dan
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 5:24 PM Hal Muskat 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Sf Coalition on Homeless:
>>> http://www.cohsf.org/
>>> https://www.facebook.com/CoalitionOnHomelessness/
>>>
>>> Don’t know if this could be helpful
>>> https://sfhomeless.wikia.org/wiki/San_Francisco_Homeless_Resource
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 2, 2020, at 5:19 PM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) <
>>> hexa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi everybody, long time no hear.
>>>
>>> I'm having a bit of a think about doing a hexayurt deployment in
>>> California in one of the pre-existing tent cities there. Very early stage,
>>> not even checking feasibility yet, but just putting out some feelers - is
>>> anybody on the ground in California and familiar with how these tent cities
>>> work, and able to advise on how we might practically go about augmenting
>>> their tents with something a bit more habitable.
>>>
>>> I'm really looking for boots-on-the-ground insight. We did a very little
>>> bit of this in London about 10 years ago, very successfully, but local
>>> conditions are king on this kind of work...
>>>
>>> Any advice or helpers?
>>>
>>> V>
>>>
>>> --
>>> *Vinay Gupta *  * hexa...@gmail.com *  *http://re.silience.com*
>>> 
>>> *Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest*
>>> UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt
>>> "In the midst of winter,  I finally learned that there was
>>> in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus
>>>
>>> --
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google
>>> Groups "hexayurt" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send
>>> an email to hexa...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/hexayurt/CAEgKDq5k22eOwut5Pis%3DeFwt6BU7t1mYv%2BvERAHv_QxtCHBBVg%40mail.gmail.com
>>> 

Re: [hexayurt] Hexayurts for homeless Californians - anybody on the ground with contacts?

2020-08-03 Thread Dan March
Hey Guys ~

While I do think that the regular hexayurt polyiso panel design works well
for Burning Man, I have to confess being a bit nervous about its being used
for general homelessness on the streets.  First of all, there is fire risk
that we're able to communicate to Burners.  Among other things, that
translates into "no cooking" or other open fire in such a yurt.  It's hard
for me to imagine that not happening in rain/winter on the street.

Some city/large org sponsorship of areas such as secure outdoor parking
have appeared, often with showers & toilets.  If these also had communal
kitchens and the city/org would set some sort of standard for a yurt (which
might not be that hard since they have to deal with tents and sorting any
liability re. that anyway. There may also be issues about a
possible/eventual waste stream from the yurts since at least the Burner
design is so temporary.  So perhaps such entities would be best to work
with to get agreement on a design envelope at least acknowledging these and
any other issues so we're all clear on this kind of thing.

Best,
Dan

On Sun, Aug 2, 2020 at 5:24 PM Hal Muskat  wrote:

> Sf Coalition on Homeless:
> http://www.cohsf.org/
> https://www.facebook.com/CoalitionOnHomelessness/
>
> Don’t know if this could be helpful
> https://sfhomeless.wikia.org/wiki/San_Francisco_Homeless_Resource
>
>
> On Aug 2, 2020, at 5:19 PM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) <
> hexay...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi everybody, long time no hear.
>
> I'm having a bit of a think about doing a hexayurt deployment in
> California in one of the pre-existing tent cities there. Very early stage,
> not even checking feasibility yet, but just putting out some feelers - is
> anybody on the ground in California and familiar with how these tent cities
> work, and able to advise on how we might practically go about augmenting
> their tents with something a bit more habitable.
>
> I'm really looking for boots-on-the-ground insight. We did a very little
> bit of this in London about 10 years ago, very successfully, but local
> conditions are king on this kind of work...
>
> Any advice or helpers?
>
> V>
>
> --
> *Vinay Gupta *  * hexay...@gmail.com  *
> *http://re.silience.com* 
> *Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest*
> UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt
> "In the midst of winter,  I finally learned that there was
> in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus
>
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> 
> .
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>
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> 
> .
>

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Re: [hexayurt] As Covid may cause a global economic depression & mass homelessness, is the Hexayurt needed more than ever?

2020-07-21 Thread Dan March
Anyone find an American equivalent to Karton in large (~ 4'x8') sizes and
thick enough to be practical as an exterior working surface?  Combine with
poly-iso?... also laminate with sheetrock on inside - fire, etc.  Slide-on
"I" section extruded panel jointers...

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 4:51 PM Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) <
hexay...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I think the answer is honeycomb polypropylene
> https://www.karton.it/en/products/extruded-products/exalite-r this stuff
> is about $50 a sheet in small quantities in Europe, so an equivalent
> product could well be $20 a sheet in America.
>
> Then bolts and metal brackets to hold it together, and maybe tape to cover
> the seams to waterproof it?
>
> What do you think?
>
> V>
>
>
> --
> *Vinay Gupta *  * hexay...@gmail.com  *
> *http://re.silience.com* 
> *Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest*
> UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt
> "In the midst of winter,  I finally learned that there was
> in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 4:33 PM Hal Muskat 
> wrote:
>
>> Great ideas, but how to you protect the panels from rain & moisture?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2020, at 5:59 PM, BurnerDan  wrote:
>>
>> Is this effort working at all in the US, or just the UK?  I've produced
>> almost 100 PIR hexayurts for Burns and have considered sandwich designs for
>> making them longer-lasting, more secure, etc. - as one would want for
>> emergency housing.  Is anyone looking at CAD 3-D printed concrete for
>> foundation work?
>>
>> On Sunday, July 19, 2020 at 3:56:59 AM UTC-7, Cabinz Admin wrote:
>>>
>>> I think this may be the case that  Covid may cause a global economic
>>> depression & mass homelessness,
>>>
>>> Is the Hexayurt needed more than ever?
>>>
>>> We as a social enterprise have been buying clearance stock of millions
>>> of screws & fixings, partly  in preparation for the construction of low
>>> cost hosuing / emergency sheters
>>>
>>> Recently, we have made contact with companies with 10,000's of metres of
>>> low cost old stock PIR & sandwich panels in the Uk in readiness for this .
>>>
>>> Happy to support groups globally needing low cost fixings to build
>>> frame  / sandwich panel Hexayurts & low cost housing / structures , inc
>>> green houses / animal shelters by sharing research, Some of our high
>>> quality / low cost fixings can be posted globally if cost effective
>>>
>>> Just been experimenting with a v small hexayurt from kingspan sandwich
>>> panels
>>> Experiments in Prototyping a 6' Hexayurt Shelter from Kingspan Metal
>>> Sided Sandwich Panels to Bear a Snow Load for Winter Storage use
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> After this we will be building a hexayurt greehouse from off cut
>>> coposite grp / plastics along the lines of our other experiments
>>>
>>> Prototype Green House / Shed DIY Kit Mk 1 with Slanting Flat Roof (Using
>>> DES Strips & Grp Sheets)
>>> 
>>>
>>> Low Cost Rot Proof Materials to Build a Garden Cloche, Greenhouse or
>>> Raised Bed for Growing Veg for Food Security and Self Reliance
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: [hexayurt] 8 Free panels in Alameda

2018-03-03 Thread Dan March
Hi ~

I'm interested.  What kind of shape are they in?  How thick are the panels?

~ Dan

On Sat, Mar 3, 2018 at 2:41 PM, Sonja Hope  wrote:

> First person to pick up gets them.
>
> Thx
>
>
> --
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Re: [hexayurt] Re: Bulk purchasing Thermax HD or other fire-safe hexayurt materials

2017-03-24 Thread Dan March
gt;> >>
>> >> >> >> Thermax CI and HD is designed to be exposed outdoors for 6-12
>> months
>> >> >> >> and
>> >> >> >> has a great thermal rating and reasonable fire rating.
>> >> >> >> The increased price difference is because its DOW :( At the time
>> i
>> >> >> >> was
>> >> >> >> interested in using Hunter XCI but they didn't wish to
>> communicate.
>> >> >> >> Thermax is expensive and difficult to source on the West Coast
>> but I
>> >> >> >> used
>> >> >> >> http://foamsalesandmarketing.com/ in Burbank, C.A. for supply.
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >>
>> >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 22, 2017 at 6:40 PM, Kevin Fischer <
>> kfisc...@gmail.com>
>> >> >> >> wrote:
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> Is Thermax HD believed to be slightly better than Hunter XCI
>> 286?
>> >> >> >>> To
>> >> >> >>> explain the increased cost, does it have a thicker layer of
>> glass
>> >> >> >>> fiber foil that adds strength? Or is it pretty much the same
>> thing?
>> >> >> >>>
>> >> >> >>> On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 2:26 PM, Adam Bregenzer <
>> a...@bregenzer.net>
>> >> >> >>> wrote:
>> >> >> >>> > No problem, we found it at a couple of places, it seems
>> readily
>> >> >> >>> > available at commercial construction supply stores such as
>> IDI <
>> >> >> >>> > http://idi-insulation.com/ > and Allied <
>> >> >> >>> > http://www.alliedbuilding.com/ >. Both were willing to sell
>> over
>> >> >> >>> > the
>> >> >> >>> > counter and kept the product in stock or within less than a
>> week
>> >> >> >>> > delivery, they also were willing to deliver locally.
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >>> >
>> >> >> >>> > On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 2:14 PM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter
>> >> >> >>> > Project)
>> >> >> >>> > <hexay...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >> Really good to know about the Hunter XCI. Thank you for
>> finding
>> >> >> >>> >> it,
>> >> >> >>> >> Adam and
>> >> >> >>> >> Hunter.
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >> Could somebody add it to the wiki? Do we have any more
>> >> >> >>> >> information
>> >> >> >>> >> on
>> >> >> >>> >> the
>> >> >> >>> >> supply chain, how to actually buy the stuff? Who's stocking
>> it?
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >> V>
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >> --
>> >> >> >>> >> Vinay Guptahexay...@gmail.com   http://re.silience.com
>> >> >> >>> >> Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest
>> >> >> >>> >> UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt
>> >> >> >>> >> "In the midst of winter,  I finally learned that there was
>> >> >> >>> >> in me an invincible summer" - Albert Camus
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >>
>> >> >> >>> >> On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 7:40 PM, Adam Bregenzer
>> >> >> >>> >> <a...@bregenzer.net>
>> >> >> >>> >> wrote:
>> >> >> >>> >>>
>> >> >> >>> >>&

Re: [hexayurt] Where to rent / buy used hexayurt?

2016-07-31 Thread Dan March
I have an H15 that went to the burn, was never assembled and came back in
the original packaging.  Originally $1150.   $800 obo.

On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 12:18 PM, Kevin Fischer  wrote:

> They come up on Craigslist fairly regularly... as low as $300 shortly
> after the burn, sometimes more like $1000 this close to the burn.
>
> Note that $400 or so is what it costs to build your own
>
> On Thu, Jul 28, 2016 at 4:04 AM, Vera Kozyr 
> wrote:
> > Hi everyone,
> >
> > need your advice on places where we can buy used hexayurt or rent one.
> There
> > are so many yurts built each year, I think it's wise to re-use them
> rather
> > than build a new one.
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> > Vera
> >
> > --
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Re: [hexayurt] Cooperate on transportation of yurt to the 2015 playa!

2015-06-24 Thread Dan March
Hey Erik ~

We're facing a similar problem of last mile logistics.  We're building a
lot of yurts for people and need to put them safely into their hands,
probably in Empire, for them to take in to the Burn.  One thought was to
provide one or more trailers, which would reduce problems such as yours to,
Find someone who could rent a UHaul hitch (or had a vehicle with a hitch)
and pull a trailer for the last few miles.  We're looking at lightweight
aluminum trailers.  Yurts are very light, so almost any vehicle could tow
that package.

~ Dan

On Wed, Jun 24, 2015 at 5:09 AM, lonroth.sca...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello burners!

 We are a team that are about to build a stretch-yurt for 5 people and are
 in dire need of help getting the yurt transported to the playa.

 We come from Sweden and have problems arranging with
 yurt-transportation-to-from-the-playa-logistics. We hope to connect with
 someone that have sorted our this problem.

 We are building our yurt in Reno and we are still looking for a way to get
 the thing to the playa. Renting a car with a trailer hook has turned out to
 be very difficult, since none of the major car rental companies I've been
 contacting will allow us to rent a car with hitch needed for the trailer.
 (Insurance, policies or whatever)

 Our other option would be to rent a moving truck, but the price is
 absolutely insane for the long period we need to have it rented.

 Therefore we are calling out for help!

 We hope to opt-in with some, or someone to get our yurt from Reno and back
 again after the end of burning man. Ideally something that can transport
 our gear, like water and bikes. We will take care of our personal
 transportation and packs, but the yurt, water and bikes is our major
 problem right now. Can you save us?

 Love and burns
 /Erik Lönroth, Sweden

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Re: [hexayurt] Building a Hexayurt in San Francisco

2015-01-29 Thread Dan March
Hey Hal  Everyone  ~

I'm declaring my experiment with using house paint to seal the edges of
R-Max against flaking off  making moop a reasonable success.  Assuming
you treat your yurt reasonably, I think it should be OK to paint the edges
instead of taping them.  Obviously, in the classic design you still create
tape hinges to join sections.  If you miter edges, all the hinges are
straight across rather than around the corner (which creates the
infamous valley problem in roofs but also covers edges).

On Thu, Jan 29, 2015 at 4:40 PM, hal muskat phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com
wrote:

 Hi Eric, good questions.

 I don’t know of space, easily, where you could get set up. Perhaps AmSteel
 or Nimby would let you have some space.

 However, on the playa, we use a rope halo to secure the roof cone, via
 other strands of rope, to rebar. On cement, this is not possible. You’d
 have to use some weight, water or sand.

 We may be hosting a workshop in early summer, in the E. Bay. There’ll be
 an announcement here, as well as Black Rock Hexayurt’s FB page.

 You don’t really want to paint the outside. For interiors, use a paint
 that will adhere to the alum coating.

 Peace, Hal


 On Jan 29, 2015, at 3:57 PM, eric conner ericwcon...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi all,

 Newbie here, 2015 will be my first burn.  I stumbled across a thread on
 hexayurts and decided that I have to build one.

 A couple of questions:

 1) Can anyone recommend a good space to test a build in the Bay Area?
 Ideally I'd be able to erect the yurt and stay in it over a weekend as a
 test run.  I live in a tiny apartment in the city and have no space to
 experiment with nearby.

 2) What is the consensus on painting one of these?  I know paint will
 reduce the heat resistance of the insulation by some amount, but are there
 other practical risks to painting?  And if not, what kind of paint would be
 ideal?

 Thanks!
 -Eric

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Re: [hexayurt] ISO Hexayurt help in LA

2015-01-07 Thread Dan March
Hey ~

Yeah - put me in touch with the guy who's coordinating all this stuff.

Have you decided on some things that kinda determine how intense your build
process is? - like whether you want beveled edges, for example?

I'm looking at solving the exposed foam edge as moop problem problem more
efficiently than the classic tape approach.  My first go will be to roll
house paint onto all cut edges and see how robust that is.  The question
for the community will be, Since it's unlikely to be as strong as tape, is
it strong enough to rise to the general risk level (make the edge no more
likely to contribute to a moop incident than some other kind of
incident/mishandling of the R-Max).

Ultimately, we are that community.  Hal and I have discussed becoming/being
a committee on this... and welcoming any others such as yourselves.

But back to your build...  Basically, if you're confident, have tools,
skill  space you may have some particular questions which I may be able to
help address.  If you're wondering about things like, To bevel or not to
bevel I'd be looking at time, skill  available tooling.  I used a table
saw set up for the purpose - but it was cost-efficient to spend some time
doing that because I was running 30 yurts and needed a
saleable-professional result rather than something that you could forgive
yourself for cobbling up.  Likewise, material savings scale and become
worth design innovation and investment in efficiency.

I don't know if this would necessarily work out but if you wanted a
partly-processed kit (pre-cut panels, rolls of tape - stuff I'd be set up
to buy and process in volume - leaving you to do your own design  build
for taping, a door, windows, power, lighting, cooling) that's something we
could talk about too.

~ Dan

On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 9:37 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in.jeopa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Hey Dan -

 Great to hear from you.  We're in West LA (near Century City if that
 helps).  We're still in the early planning stages, but definitely want to
 do this!  We'd love to have someone lend a hand who's done this before ...
 to give us tips, ideas, suggestions!

 Over the next couple of months, we're going to be finalizing the design
 that we each want to use (for example, four foot walls vs. six foot walls,
 etc.), and deciding on details like how to handle doors, hinges,
 ventilation, etc.

 Our timeline is flexible, but we would probably have our in-town
 assembly day in the June time frame.  We would have bought all the
 materials by that point, and we would take over a workspace (like my
 driveway) for that work.  We would want to cut, tape, and fold the yurts on
 that day.

 There's actually someone else in the group who is taking ownership of
 pulling this together, and I'd like to put you and him in touch with each
 other.  What would be the best way for him to be in contact with you?

 On Monday, January 5, 2015 4:10:24 PM UTC-8, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey Halo ~

 It's possible I could help in a variety of ways.  Where in LA are you?
 Do you have a good setup?  What's your timeline?

 Dan

 On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 11:41 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in@gmail.com
 wrote:

 We are a group of folks in LA who are looking to build about four
 hexayurts for BM 2015.  We plan to build the kits in LA, and do a final
 assembly on the playa.

 We're pretty handy with tools, etc., but would love it if an experienced
 hexayurt person in LA could spend several hours with us here to give us
 tips, hints, ideas, suggestions!

 We'd be glad to reimburse you for your time.

 If you are interested in helpin' us out during the next several months,
 please respond here!

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Re: [hexayurt] ISO Hexayurt help in LA

2015-01-07 Thread Dan March
Oops... duh... sorry... I'm at dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com or 310 709 0563

On Wed, Jan 7, 2015 at 11:04 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in.jeopa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Dan -

 I'll have my friend contact you directly, but I'm not sure how to do
 that!  I suppose that you have a gmail email address ... how would I find
 that address?  As an alternative, my gmail address is halo.in.jeopardy at
 gmail.  If you can send me an email, I'll forward your email to my friend,
 who will be in touch with you!

 On Wednesday, January 7, 2015 10:24:47 AM UTC-8, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey ~

 Yeah - put me in touch with the guy who's coordinating all this stuff.

 Have you decided on some things that kinda determine how intense your
 build process is? - like whether you want beveled edges, for example?

 I'm looking at solving the exposed foam edge as moop problem problem
 more efficiently than the classic tape approach.  My first go will be to
 roll house paint onto all cut edges and see how robust that is.  The
 question for the community will be, Since it's unlikely to be as strong as
 tape, is it strong enough to rise to the general risk level (make the edge
 no more likely to contribute to a moop incident than some other kind of
 incident/mishandling of the R-Max).

 Ultimately, we are that community.  Hal and I have discussed
 becoming/being a committee on this... and welcoming any others such as
 yourselves.

 But back to your build...  Basically, if you're confident, have tools,
 skill  space you may have some particular questions which I may be able to
 help address.  If you're wondering about things like, To bevel or not to
 bevel I'd be looking at time, skill  available tooling.  I used a table
 saw set up for the purpose - but it was cost-efficient to spend some time
 doing that because I was running 30 yurts and needed a
 saleable-professional result rather than something that you could forgive
 yourself for cobbling up.  Likewise, material savings scale and become
 worth design innovation and investment in efficiency.

 I don't know if this would necessarily work out but if you wanted a
 partly-processed kit (pre-cut panels, rolls of tape - stuff I'd be set up
 to buy and process in volume - leaving you to do your own design  build
 for taping, a door, windows, power, lighting, cooling) that's something we
 could talk about too.

 ~ Dan

 On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 9:37 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Hey Dan -

 Great to hear from you.  We're in West LA (near Century City if that
 helps).  We're still in the early planning stages, but definitely want to
 do this!  We'd love to have someone lend a hand who's done this before ...
 to give us tips, ideas, suggestions!

 Over the next couple of months, we're going to be finalizing the design
 that we each want to use (for example, four foot walls vs. six foot walls,
 etc.), and deciding on details like how to handle doors, hinges,
 ventilation, etc.

 Our timeline is flexible, but we would probably have our in-town
 assembly day in the June time frame.  We would have bought all the
 materials by that point, and we would take over a workspace (like my
 driveway) for that work.  We would want to cut, tape, and fold the yurts on
 that day.

 There's actually someone else in the group who is taking ownership of
 pulling this together, and I'd like to put you and him in touch with each
 other.  What would be the best way for him to be in contact with you?

 On Monday, January 5, 2015 4:10:24 PM UTC-8, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey Halo ~

 It's possible I could help in a variety of ways.  Where in LA are you?
 Do you have a good setup?  What's your timeline?

 Dan

 On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 11:41 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in@gmail.com
 wrote:

 We are a group of folks in LA who are looking to build about four
 hexayurts for BM 2015.  We plan to build the kits in LA, and do a final
 assembly on the playa.

 We're pretty handy with tools, etc., but would love it if an
 experienced hexayurt person in LA could spend several hours with us here 
 to
 give us tips, hints, ideas, suggestions!

 We'd be glad to reimburse you for your time.

 If you are interested in helpin' us out during the next several
 months, please respond here!

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Re: [hexayurt] ISO Hexayurt help in LA

2015-01-05 Thread Dan March
Hey Halo ~

It's possible I could help in a variety of ways.  Where in LA are you?  Do
you have a good setup?  What's your timeline?

Dan

On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 11:41 AM, Halo Jeopardy halo.in.jeopa...@gmail.com
wrote:

 We are a group of folks in LA who are looking to build about four
 hexayurts for BM 2015.  We plan to build the kits in LA, and do a final
 assembly on the playa.

 We're pretty handy with tools, etc., but would love it if an experienced
 hexayurt person in LA could spend several hours with us here to give us
 tips, hints, ideas, suggestions!

 We'd be glad to reimburse you for your time.

 If you are interested in helpin' us out during the next several months,
 please respond here!

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Re: [hexayurt] Surprising amount of hexayurt moop at burning man this year

2014-09-22 Thread Dan March
The distinction that seems to exist in some people's minds appears to be
whether a charge is made/paid on-playa.  Obviously people paid me to make
yurts for them - or in some cases to rent them from me.  Part of the deal
for many of these folks was delivery and even setup/tear-down.

I have to say, however, that for some people, this did seem to put them or
the situation outside what we all hope is the playa mentality.  One of my
helpers nearly quit over how she felt treated by a couple of people we
served.  Perhaps she was expecting too much; perhaps people bring more of
their mundane world selves onto the playa than we - or they - would like.
I know I have this bad little habit I would so like to ditch, but there it
was - popping up in the middle of a camp social gathering talking about
food  morality.  I plan on working on more clarity, more reliability and
better expectation management... as well as better designs.

One of the toughest problems in moving such a problem into a service
model is a lot of shit happens that affects how much work  expense is
involved in making it all happen.  One guy might be at his intended camp at
the set delivery time (which one hopes to be a simple loop around the area
- maybe once for early delivery and again for normal).  He's ready and
there's no problem.  Boom. Off the truck and move on.  5 minutes.  OR...
The guy's stuck in line... maybe... or he changed camps and nobody you can
find knows.  So you spend not just 2 hours with early delivery but 2
days.  So far simple stuff like, Just come to Location A and pick it
up/drop it off, hasn't worked at all.

There are solutions, but they have to be worked on and tested Maybe
giant autonomous hexacopters with facial recognition... and drop-down mobs
of coordinated assembly bots.

On Mon, Sep 22, 2014 at 11:43 AM, Jason Adams jasonadamspriv...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I like Dan's idea of handling this logitistically. I mean most people are
 only using the yurts for burn, so a storage center not far from burn seems
 like a brilliant idea.  Atleast as a first step letting people store them
 there, so they don't have to get going super fast speeds with their shotty
 strapping. Then after that part is implemented we could work on some kind
 of off playa logistics team.  Just a big truck that goes around picking up
 already taken down yurts, tags their information on it, gives them receipt
 and brings them to storage.

 In the business world you'd just set it up, offer it as a service, like
 dan did building them... and bam probably would be a profitable business
 that solves the moop problem.   Not sure how having a charge would be
 received by burning community tho

 On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 9:51 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 It's all pretty variable, one vehicle to another, one person's strap-down
 vs. another's.  Yurts don't weigh much but on the roof, they get hit with a
 lot of air (a load of yurts on the roof dropped my mileage in half).
 Plywood sandwiching is great at protecting the yurt's panels (as long as it
 stays put on the roof rack  the rack itself on the roof).  A strong, well
 wrapped  strapped tarp is probably a plus but a flimsy,
 poorly-wrapped/attached one often turns out to be a liability.  If you're
 in doubt about your rack getting ripped off your roof, then (generally) yes
 - run straps through the inside/under roof.

 I wonder if BRC authorities could be stationed to look out for
 poorly-configured/attached loads and ask/require that no one present a
 significant/obvious risk of losing the load en route.  Maybe offer
 suggestions or even help securing stuff.  Sort of internal
 semi-self-policing instead of having the regular authorities pull you over
 as they become increasingly annoyed at burners' failure to contain their
 loads.

 On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 7:19 PM, dar...@chaosreigns.com wrote:

 It would be great if we had some kind of remotely solid info on how these
 failures are happening.  For example, a yurt wrapped in plywood and tarp
 can still fly off a car if it's only attached to a roof rack, and wind
 tears the roof rack off (don't remember where I heard of that happening).

 Does the wiki have a page that points out the usefulness of strapping
 through the car doors?

 On 09/21, 'Adam Gensler' via hexayurt wrote:
 If you wrap the boards in the tarp that serves as the yurt floor,
 these
 transport disasters would be virtually eliminated.  That and plywood
 sandwiching work quite well.
 Adam
 Sent from my iPhone
 On Sep 21, 2014, at 12:24 PM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter
 Project)
 hexay...@gmail.com wrote:
 
   We have to get people off RMAX etc. and on to Hunter XCI 286 /
 Thermax
   HD and such like.
   Have to. It's time.
   --
   Vinay Guptahexay...@gmail.com   http://re.silience.com
   Free Science and Engineering in the Global Public Interest
   UK Cell : +44 (0)7500 895568 Twitter/Skype/Gtalk: hexayurt

Re: [hexayurt] Surprising amount of hexayurt moop at burning man this year

2014-09-21 Thread Dan March
Hey y'all ~

When I saw the headline for this post, I imagined yurts at some stage of
tear-down and loading getting blown astray - or worse, being abandoned (so
I'd be interested in how that quantified).

Of course, reading it revealed a problem pretty hard to miss on the roads
away from BRC - just as darxus reports.  Bringing the large amounts of
stuff - from art to experimental dwellings to costumes and consumables are
all part of what make the experience what it is - so we deal with it
better.

It's legitimate to call out yurts specifically.  There are more every year
(because they're such as cool dwelling solution), but that really means we
need to solve the transport problem.  It's kind of unique to yurts because
it's possible and tempting to flap a stack of insulation boards on your
roof rack and drive.  They're light.  But as noted, they're also fragile.

Even though they're modular and collapsible, they do take up significant
space in garages, etc.

*Conceptually simple solution:*  Store them more or less on the playa.  As
I understand it, many organized camps have storage containers left on
adjacent non-BLM land which are transported to  from campsites for each
year's burn by BLC facilities guys (someone help me out with their
official name... and contact info, please).

*Real-world wrinkles:* ..Attendance uncertainty,
maintenance/repair/remodel/replace and on-playa logistics.  None of that is
easy,  I got a little look at that by making almost 30 yurts, getting them
to people (mostly on-playa), dealing with supplier delays, weather delays,
entry delays, people not coming after all, unforeseen variation in
user/owner setup and breakdown etc.  Then, What's worth saving? - which
means cleaning up dust, messed up tape, dings, etc.  I'm pretty sure a
significant percentage of yurts come out of the garage 5 years after their
only burn and just land in the trash (carbon/general environmental
footprint???).

So it's not a simple solution.  But is there a better one?  It's
certainly not a one solution fits all world either.  Camps and other groups
carefully collect yurts and put them in the camp storage.  But not every
camp does this for everyone all the time.

Thoughts?

Dan

On Sun, Sep 21, 2014 at 7:49 AM, dar...@chaosreigns.com wrote:


 http://blog.burningman.com/2014/09/environment/moop-map-2014-roadside-poop-hexamoop/

 'The second, more surprising 2014 trend: hexayurts. Large numbers
 of broken hexayurt panels wound up littering the highway, scattering
 little bits of styrofoam through the sage. Solution: Strap your hexayurt
 panels more carefully, so they won’t bend and break when you hit
 highway speeds.

 “Wrap your yurts! They fly away, and once it hits the sagebrush,
 it’s over,” says Ninjalina, Highway Cleanup Assistant Manager. The
 prickly branches catch bits of foam and wood as they blow past in the
 wind, creating an extended trail of littered brush.

 “My truck alone picked up 64 contractor bags of trash, 30 tires,
 20 yurt panels and a bunch of miscellaneous stuff,” Ninjalina says.'

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Re: [hexayurt] looking for pre-made yurts! advice?

2014-07-29 Thread Dan March
Oops... forgot - kit also includes a tarp.


On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 1:48 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Hoda ~

 I can help you out with a yurt kit.  We were just closing off orders, but
 if we can deliver it to you in SF (we build in LA), that would work.  I'm
 assuming that since you originally planning to build it yourself, you were
 also planning to bring it to the playa.

 We're making H12s and H15 yurts using 1.5 thick R-Max, all panels bevel
 cut and edged with foil tape, partially hinged with bidirectional and foil
 tape, additional tape needed for final assembly and including an in-coming
 air filter and cutting a classic door-opening.  H12 kits are $750; H15 are
 $950.  Delivery from LA to SF is $100.

 If you would also like stakes, we have heavy 20 steel stakes at $9.00
 ea.  We have 100' and 150' (recommended) of rope, or - better - a
 custom-made flat webbing halo for $75 and a set of ratcheting tie-downs
 for $40.  We also have swamp coolers, solar panels, and other power systems.

 Please get back asap so we can include you.

 Thanks,
 Dan


 On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 10:10 PM, Hoda Eydgahi hoda.eydg...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 hi gang:

 my friends and i were looking to purchase a yurt for BM this year as it
 is approaching very quickly and none of us can pull it together in time to
 build one (in addition to getting all the other prep work done for BM). i
 was wondering if anyone had any leads as to where to get one please?

 Thanks!

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: An idea for a more permanent tape solution (spray adhesive and nylon)

2014-07-23 Thread Dan March
Thanks... did that... also boat builders... nada but special
equipment-needed manufacturing grade special-stuff.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 1:19 PM, Bruiser Smith smyth...@gmail.com wrote:

 From what I've read in this thread
 http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-adhesive-do-i-use-vinyl-228613.html
 maybe check with a local automotive upholstery shop. Read through there but
 they say that 3M Top  Trim adhesive is also good. Or, if you can't get
 either due to California law, check with the upholsterer to see their
 recommendations.


 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 2:04:19 PM UTC-6, BurnerDan wrote:

 Interesting-looking product.  Commercial grade?  Don't know about you,
 but I'm in California - where it can't be shipped... or sold?  I talked
 with the DAP factory rep who assured me that the Original Contact Cement
 was the best I could buy.  The can says High heat resistance.

 If the material your link talks about is available, I'd love to know how
 to get some.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Bruiser Smith smyt...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Did you use the DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement specifically?

 http://www.yourautotrim.com/noname37.html

 It seems like it's highly recommended for vinyl applications for car
 interiors as it's rated for 250F.


 On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:18:52 PM UTC-6, BurnerDan wrote:

 Watch out for contact cement losing it in high heat!  I used it (the
 original non-water-based - because DAP recommended it over the water
 version) to attach vinyl fabric in my interior build-out of my Sprinter
 here in LA (where we see Burning Man temps).  It started off looking great,
 seemed to have an excellent bond to metal, wood, etc.  When it started
 letting go a year or so later, I asked around and sure enough, it's not
 that uncommon.


 On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:29 AM, Bruiser Smith smyt...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Hi Jacob -

 I've read your posts on here, the guide and videos on your Google
 Drive, as well as your posts on Eplaya. First off - thank you for putting
 together such a comprehensive guide! I am looking to apply this to my
 pentayurt (H10) this year, and have a couple questions which would greatly
 help me out:


1. What are your thoughts following the method of foil taping the
edges rather than using masking tape or contact cement? I already have 
 a
large roll of 3 foil.
2. For the 'loose' hinges, did you use both 7 inch on the inside
as well as the outside?
3. Thoughts on using vinyl/cc hinges for doors  windows?
4. For my structure, which needs longer lengths of vinyl, can't I
just buy a few yards of vinyl and cut them length-wise?
5. Thoughts on using a hand roller to minimize bubbles? http://www.
istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg

 http://www.istscientific.com/user/products/large/quickseal-hand-roller.jpg


 Again I can't thank you enough for putting together all of the
 resources that you have

 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 11:45:17 PM UTC-6, Jacob Rodriguez wrote:

 Sorry, not sure about tap plastics. The stuff I'm buying is used
 for covering furniture, or used as storm windows or whatever. Marine 
 vinyl
 is really good. I used to think it was 4 gauge vinyl, but it's actually 
 12
 gauge. Probably best to make sure it's UV treated, but mine doesn't say
 specifically and is proving itself quite well outside for the past month 
 or
 so. No cracking or getting hard or anything. Anything that is sold to be
 used outdoors is what you're looking for.

 Here's a link to Amazon to give you an idea of what you want:
 http://www.amazon.com/No-Manufacturer-Gauge-Clear-Viny
 l/dp/B003ZFA4LM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8qid=1373261515sr=8-1key
 words=12+gauge+vinyl

 I've also just updated a document that explains a lot of stuff here
 https://docs.google.com/document/d/1x-PUR8OMG-4_uxGuXYmoctYTdwBAl8R0mYkJc0gnCYY/edit?usp=sharing.
 One thing I just learned is not to use the eco friendly contact cement
 that cleans up with water. Use the hardcore stuff. I'm all for saving the
 environment, but the 'Woodweld' in a green can is not what you want 
 (takes
 too long to get tacky and dry). Find the original stuff in the red can 
 if
 you can.

 Using 4 vs 6 inches is up to you. I'm personally going with 4 inches
 for my tight hinges (giving me 2 inches of contact on either board) and
 then 7 inch strips on my loose hinges (3 inches will be taken up by my
 board thickness (1.5), and then 2 on each surface). In my experience,
 that seems to be plenty strong. See my tests
 https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9akv0Z5bU-IazJmZ2NHa2l3dVUusp=sharing
  (labeled
 Test) on various things. Those prototypes only have 1.5 inches on each
 board, and some of that is over masking tape, reducing their adhesion; 
 they
 hold up pretty well. Though it never hurts to overbuild, and if you're
 doing a regular hexayurt, you won't use too much, so why not? On my quad
 dome, I have something like 136 joins/edges that need to be done, so I 
 

Re: [hexayurt] What rope would be good for a rope halo on a H12?

2014-07-22 Thread Dan March
Right... so imagine what's going to happen first - the R-Max caving
in/deforming/detaching tape to the wind or stressing to the rope which
starts acting like a large wire cheese-slicer... or the - even just 300#
safe working load rope breaking.  Not sure, but guessing that Home Depot
3/8 poly rope is already overkill in terms of breaking strength (although,
semi-technically, the main loop ought to be much heavier than the 6 leads
going to stakes).  Personally, I vote against the cheese-slicer effect by
preferring flat webbing and doubling the force spread to two spread out
webbings per stake.


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:54 AM, Steve Upstill upst...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just went to Home Depot and bought the beefiest rope they had. That
 stretchy nylon stuff can be kind of a pain (adjusting straps), but it
 doesn’t make a huge difference.

 The REALLY important thing, if you’ve got a door with the hinge on top, is
 to have a piece of bungie and a rope loop on the door to hook the door to
 the halo so you don’t keep getting thwacked in the bum by the door. :-)

 Cheers,
 Steve

 On Jul 22, 2014, at 8:32 AM, rymar ryanmarqu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hey Steve,
 What type of rope do you think would be good? Thanks.

 On Monday, July 21, 2014 2:54:12 PM UTC-7, Steve Upstill (Swifty) wrote:

 Are you using a halo? A halo 70% of the circumference of your yurt
 (6*8’*.70 or ~35’) should be plenty. Does anyone think 500# test wouldn’t
 be sufficient?

 On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:47 PM, rymar ryanma...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm using rachet tie down straps to connect to u shaped rebar but I'm not
 sure what rope would be best and how big my radius should be around my H12?
 Thanks in advance.

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: Comments on using strap hinges for a Camp Danger door (vs. tape hinge)

2014-07-22 Thread Dan March
Awesome guys!  I can only add that when I use 1/4 (or less) plywood, I
generally sandwich the foam with it on the hinge side.  I tend to put a 1x4
up to whole wall-ID-size inside along the bottom to reinforce the threshold
against clumsy feet.  I also go beyond fender washers - which I do use, but
add 2.25 heavy-ish but somewhat flexible washers I make with a hole-saw
from sheet plastic (think thin camping cutting board material or...)...
also considered painting stepped-on soda cans... but... nah.


On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 9:49 AM, Phil Dirt sen...@goldrush.com wrote:

 What you're all forgetting is the sheer stress that hinges (and the bolts
 that hold them) put on the polyiso panels, which were never meant to be
 structural.

 I cut my 2' x 2' door in one of the 4' end panels of my stretch hexayurt
 to better utilize interior space. The opening extends all the way to the
 ground. I glued a piece of 1/4 plywood to the inside of the cut out to
 make an insulated door. Anything thicker than 1/4 is overkill and adds
 unnecessary weight. The plywood provides all the sheer strength you need
 for the hinge ears and latch that bolt through the door proper.

 I reinforced the sides and top of the door opening with 12 wide aluminum
 flashing which I formed into a U shape to slip over the cut edges of the
 paneling. This provides sheer strength for the hinges and latch and also
 protects the edges of the door opening from abrasion when entering or
 leaving the yurt. Since I used 1-1/2 panels, I used a scrap piece of 2 x
 4, folded the flashing over by hand, then beat the daylights out of it
 with a rubber mallet. An eye bolt through the hinge side of the wall and
 another through the door can be fitted with a bungee cord to automatically
 close the door when you enter or leave.

 Because the doorway opens all the way to the playa, I needed a transom to
 reinforce the sides and reduce the amount of dust dragged into the yurt. I
 made this with a 2' scrap of 2 x 2 and four metal straps, two on each
 end. This just drops into the opening and is held in place by friction and
 gravity, two of my favorite forces.


 On Monday, July 21, 2014 1:54:17 PM UTC-7, )(hoenix wrote:

 We use hinges like that on the doors. Use LARGE washers where the bolt (a
 real thin one) touches the panels to avoid puncture.


 On Jul 21, 2014, at 1:28 PM, Jay Batson bats...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks for the two replies so far.

 I went to Home Depot, and found that the hinge I'd copied into the mail
 was SERIOUSLY stiff to move.

 I found another, 8 (not 10, sadly) black decorative hinge that was
 better for three reasons:
 1) Very easy hinging; no stiffness;
 2) 3 holes, all in locations I can use;
 3) Lightweight.

 I think what I'm going to try is to actually use _both_ a tape hinge,
 plus the metal hinges.  I'll have to repair my tape hinge on-playa, but I
 suspect I can do that without trouble.

 Hopefully by putting the load across both hinge types I can keep either
 from having operational issues, and keep from tearing the foam apart as
 Switfly experienced.  (The only thing I'm still a bit worried about is
 alignment; can it all work?)

 Thanks. I'll still appreciate any new comments people have.
 -jb

 On Sunday, July 20, 2014 5:09:42 PM UTC-4, Jay Batson wrote:

 Hey, all -

 Last year I made a Camp Danger yurt.  Loved it.

 I made the door Danger-style - a square door cut in the middle of a
 side, not extending to the edge.  I used a tape hinge, and Neodymium
 magnets for a latch.

 By the end of the burn, the door was hanging crooked; the tape had
 started to come loose.  Photo at end of post below.

 Does anybody have any thoughts about attaching two strap hinges directly
 to the door  yurt?  I'm considering two of these along the hinge edge:


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-xWMrdNtxmLw/U8ws3wkipkI/JX0/TUfe1tdqkCI/s1600/StrapHinge.jpg

 Some details:


1. I'd use at least 3 (if not all 4) hex bolts to attach each side,
drilling through the yurt foam, and using big fender washers on the back.
Lots of bolts = better distribution of door weight across all the holes
through the R-Max
2. I would NOT transport the Yurt with these attached.  I'd attach
them during construction (on-Playa), and remove prior to packing.
3. My yurt is currently NOT WITH ME, and I won't have any ability to
work on it before I get to construction on-playa. I'll be fitting them 
 for
the first time when putting the yurt up. (It's in-storage in a container,
and I'll pick it up on-playa.)
4. I'm pretty handy. I'm also obsessive about getting things
perfect.  My yurt is built reasonably well - cuts are straight, but the
angle of the bevel varies.  (Grrr.)
5. I acknowledge there will be a little R-Max Moop that appears when
I drill my holes. I will capture it to the best of my ability.


 My key concern is whether people think the holes will start to widen,
 hinges sag, and in-turn make the 

Re: [hexayurt] Help building yurts for SF/Bay Area burner?

2014-06-25 Thread Dan March
Hey Ryan,

I'm trying to put together a build session in LA and maybe one in SF as
well if I can find some space.  Regardless of whether that comes together,
I'm making kits - which are another way of getting the cost down and
letting people start with the basics pretty much taken care of - so the
risk of messing up on the playa is driven down.

Compared to something like a Costco carport, yurts are expensive.  Our H15
kits materials range in 2/3 - 3/4 of the cost.  They are also bulkier and
more fragile to handle and store.  Nonetheless, people go for them -
because of the kind of space they create and the identity that comes with
them.

I'm also building a Hexacomb (1.5 thick engineered cardboard) as an
experiment.  The board is more rigid yet less expensive, but I'll have to
see what happens to other costs associated with making it waterproof and
perhaps more insulative.

Where are you and what kind of yurt are you looking for?

~ Dan


On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 11:35 AM, rymar ryanmarqu...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hello all,

 I've been looking to build a hexayurt ever since I saw my first one on the
 playa last year. I have been looking around to see about pre made or help
 getting a pre made yurt and noticed the prices are pretty darn high, and I
 also want to experience of building it myself. What I don't want to
 experience is messing the whole thing up and being miserable on the playa.
 I was wondering if anyone is going to have a class or something similar
 where a bunch of yurt builders can come together and assist each other with
 the build? I have seen some interest around the web but nothing concrete
 about doing this.

 Ryan

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Re: [hexayurt] Thermax in reality

2014-06-22 Thread Dan March
check julie danger's you tube posts thru links in this group


On Sun, Jun 22, 2014 at 12:11 PM, Hunter neversph...@gmail.com wrote:

 I can't imagine it would have many differences from other poly iso boards
 since the difference is mainly the amount of flame retardants imbedded in
 it.
 On Jun 22, 2014 7:47 PM, Dano McKagan flydano...@gmail.com wrote:


 Howdy all,

 Thermax! The good stuff! The famed gold standard!

 A friend and I were talking and realized we've never actually known
 anybody to actually use it. Only thing I've found is this time-lapse
 video of folks building hexayurts with Thermax
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8IZeDQu_Ec.

 Can anybody point me to a my experience using it in blog format with
 pretty pictures? Or post here?

 Dano!

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Re: [hexayurt] Struggling to find 1.5 Insulation boards in the SF/Bay area...Please help!

2014-06-13 Thread Dan March
I've had no trouble getting 1.5' R-Max sheets at Home Depots in LA, where
I'll be going this weekend and possibly next as well.  I believe I could
buy and transport as many as you need from LA to SF.


On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 4:56 AM, Hugh Scott Moncrieff 
hsmoncri...@crtq.co.uk wrote:

 Hi Guys.

 I am coming out from the UK with a group of 8. This will be my third burn
 BUT first yurt build. We are planning on making two 8' yurts. Might even
 try and stretch to one 12' and one 8'.

 ANYWAY. We plan to have all the materials shipped to my friend's house in
 SF for off site pre-fabrication but I am really struggling to find a vendor
 for 1.5 8ftx4ft boards. Can anyone with some local knowledge and
 experience help me with a location on where to find. As far as I can see
 Home Depot don't stock what we need and Lowes only have the 1 boards.

 Advice and help very much appreciated!!!

 Thanks

 Hugh

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: Anyone know any leads on buying a pre-made hexayurt?

2014-06-12 Thread Dan March
Hi Taylor,

I'm actully more in SF right now but yurt production is in LA... and
difficult to move to SF.   I'm offering kits because creating really nice
yurts is a complicated and time-consuming business.  Sure, you can slap
together some boards and maybe make out ok, but no one's first attempt is
likely to be what they'd aspire to in terms of quality.  Of course, you can
get all kinds of advice, hints, etc. online, and if you're going to go
ahead, you definitely should do that... a lot.  Your first few bevel cuts
might be better than butting together un-cut edges and expecting gaps... or
not.  Performance improves with both experience and putting together tools
that help you do a better, cleaner, more reliable job.

The most difficult thing to control without special tooling and experience
is the bevel angle.  Taping is better done by people with experience, but
simple care and patience goes a long way too.  Another problem people face
is simply handling a dozen or more sheets of material.  If you like, I
could simply pick up and do all the major cuts, bring them up to you and
let you take it from there.  I could order and bring tape... or not.  But
you could then have a taping party and get all the bits ready and packaged
up for transport, delivery and assembly on the playa.  You could also
figure out all the other things that make the yurt experience more
enjoyable, such as swamp coolers (good because yurts' insulation makes it
worthwhile), power-making so you can have lights, run swamp coolers,
ventillation, have good tiedowns, etc.

Here's one simple tip:  when cutting diagonally across a sheet to make a
roof panel, use a full sheet of plywood to make a table that supports your
board well.  Use a corner-to-corner straightedge and a guide with another
guide to hold your knife or whatever at a true 90 degrees through the whole
cut.  If you waver around, the two halves won't fit together well and your
dimensions could grow after taping - leading to an odd taping situation
where the roof's circumference is larger the walls.

Happy to answer specific questions - and good luck!!

~ Dan


On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 1:49 PM, Taylor Buckman taylorbuck...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Hey Dan,

 We have a few people in SF looking to build a few Hexayurts. Could we come
 learn from and help you one day if you are local? Would love to get some
 tips and tricks so we don't mess up our first attempts!


 On Saturday, May 31, 2014 11:55:12 AM UTC-7, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey James et al. ~

 Great to see all the east o' ponders!

 Yes!  We've set up tooling for a little production line - cutting,
 beveling, pre-taping, etc. for R-Max panels (so far, consensus + resident
 guru-queen of playa yurtdom, Julie Danger seem focused on the 1.5 thick
 board).  Although we can do 4, 6 or 8' high walls, the recommendation is 6'
 - also a Julie fav.  So that's 15 panels.

 Then there are two more questions:

 Accessories - ranging from tape/extra tape to swamp coolers to powered
 ventilation, filtration, PV with or without batteries generators, lighting,
 upgraded windows, door and the famous Yurt Skirt.

 Transport.  If I get sufficient commitment, I can go from offering to
 bring one yurt to many.  It would be very handy to just make it, and
 transport it - dropping/picking up at your campsite.  Have you figured out
 storage?

 ~ Dan


 On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 9:37 AM, James O'Toole james@
 ellenmacarthurfoundation.org wrote:

 Hi Burner Dan,

 My friends and I are travelling from the UK and Ireland for our second
 burn, we really want to build our own yurts but I'm concerned that we won't
 be able to do the necessary prep in the home depot carpark. Are you doing
 pre-produced or semi-prepared yurts for 2014?

 There is around 10-12 of us, so we probably need at least 2 yurts I
 reckon.

 Any advice/info would be very welcome.

 Cheers,

 James.


 On Thursday, 22 May 2014 16:04:10 UTC+1, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey Dave ~  I'm set up to make and even transport yurts.  Just finished
 another 6' one I'm using to display clever add-ons including caravan-themed
 engineering upgrades that prevent the most common damage/wear/failure
 points, such as a light wood door on real hinges with threshold but still
 packs flat.  Getting pics today.

 Another thematic/engineering up-grade is my Yurt Skirt - which
 replaces the traditional rope halo to which the lines going to the stakes
 are attached.  I just brought the halo down to about 1.5' above the roof
 edge, turned it into webbing.  Then I further stabilized and decorated it
 by grabbing the most distinctive detail of a caravan tent - the
 stripped/patterned lower edge of a classic caravan tent roof - so the lunar
 lander yurt is now dressed for the occasion.  Webbing loops at each corner
 provide an attachment point for a line (could be cargo webbing with
 ratchet) to a stake.  Engineering-wise, this protects the delicate foam
 board by covering a vulnerable point and spreading the tie-down load.

Re: [hexayurt] Re: Bulk purchasing Thermax HD or other fire-safe hexayurt materials

2014-06-10 Thread Dan March
Hey Tim ~  I'm also concerned with safety and look for materials that
really do the job well and with a safety margin I'm comfortable with.
The theoretical fire-related risks in a yurt with aluminized interior
surface are scary with the lens effect and other concentrating potentials.
Even - or in some hypothetical cases - without the foam board itself
catching fire, just having any substantial amount of stuff burning in a
heat-concentrating structure can get pretty intense.  Thinking of keeping
any flames out of there, myself.  I like to cook but might have a separate,
safer place to do it... also experimenting with more serious electrical
power and using non-flame cooking stuffs like induction - which looks
amazing btw.

It appears to me that a well-constructed H15 (which, to me, means mitered
corners - which really improve the integrity of tape joints  carrying
through the structural properties of the skin over the foam, and also means
well tied down and weak points like doorways reinforced) made = 1.5
thick board should stand up to an acceptably high percentage of possible
weather on the playa.  I don't think any weight difference is practically
significant.  I can lift a whole H15 either way if it's a package I can
handle.

I'm playing with Hexacomb board.  It's quite a bit more rigid but needs
waterproofing and possibly some help with insulation  reflection.  It's
pretty light and about half the price of HD.  Also playing with hybrid
systems - board captured by EMT TinkerToy.  Hard to price that kind of
stuff though... more of an art statement you live in...

Re group buys, Home Depot might special order HD in some quantity, but
probably not necessarily a huge amount, so I'm not counting that as much of
a barrier.  Costs a bit more but like you say...   Either way, I can do the
kits and accessories.

~ Dan


On Mon, Jun 9, 2014 at 9:24 PM, Tim timcann...@gmail.com wrote:

 We'd be interested in a group order as well.

 I'm somewhat new to yurt building. I've read most of the guides but am yet
 to read up on true side-by-side comparisons of each type of material for
 playa use. I tend to buy the best if that makes sense, so I'm attracted
 to HD. That said, is it actually that much better on the playa? I'm also
 curious if it weighs much more, considering structural implications for an
 H15. Thanks for any insight. Count us in if this *is* the best option for
 the $$.


 On Sunday, May 4, 2014 8:00:20 AM UTC-7, BurnerDan wrote:

 Safety is an issue.  All campers need to be aware of the risks -
 especially of fire - in sleeping in many Playa constructs, but yurts have
 special dangers because of their materials and tightness.

 Is there any history of encouraging smoke alarm use and do any/all such
 units remain reliable under Playa conditions?

 On Saturday, February 1, 2014 6:06:59 AM UTC-8, Vinay Gupta wrote:


 They're tougher.

 They're not that much more expensive.

 They won't catch fire.

 I feel like this would be a great year to actually fix the supply chain
 issues around Thermax HD (or equivalents from other manufacturers), do a
 container load bulk purchase, and start moving people off R-MAX etc. until
 there's a comprehensive solution for the fire risk. I really want to solve
 this problem before somebody gets hurt.

 http://www.appropedia.org/Hexayurt_Safety_Information

 Vinay

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Re: [hexayurt] Calculating miter angles for square yurt (H8)

2014-06-07 Thread Dan March
If you look at a cross section vertically through the middle, you have an
equilateral triangle, right?  The seamed part of one roof triangle is 8',
the width of the yurt is 8' and the other roof section is another 8' - so
it's 60-60-60 degrees.


On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 1:54 PM, dar...@chaosreigns.com wrote:

 I'd like to build a square yurt with mitered edges.  How do I calculate
 the angles?  The sides are easy enough, 45 degrees.

 Angles between roof panels?  Angles between the roof and the sides?


 One of the things I like about the H8 shape is, if I pack the parts between
 a pair of plywood sheets, they'll make a perfectly fitting floor.  Would I
 even need a tarp under it, or will taping to the plywood be adequate?


 To be precise, I want to build a yurt with the exact same pieces as an
 8' H12 hexayurt, but with 4 sides instead of 6.  Each side being one
 4'x8' panel, each side of the roof being made from one 4'x8' panel cut
 diagonally and then taped together to form a triangle.  I think the
 sides of that triangle would come out to:
 8' (bottom)
 8.9442719015878563' (top edge)
 8.9442719015878563' (other top edge)

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Re: [hexayurt] Calculating miter angles for square yurt (H8)

2014-06-07 Thread Dan March
Great table, Ray/Krazy!


On Sat, Jun 7, 2014 at 9:06 AM, Ray Kornele krazykyngeko...@gmail.com
wrote:

 http://www.sbebuilders.com/hoppers/
 Complete table of cuts for what you want.


 KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)



 On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 1:54 PM, dar...@chaosreigns.com wrote:

 I'd like to build a square yurt with mitered edges.  How do I calculate
 the angles?  The sides are easy enough, 45 degrees.

 Angles between roof panels?  Angles between the roof and the sides?


 One of the things I like about the H8 shape is, if I pack the parts
 between
 a pair of plywood sheets, they'll make a perfectly fitting floor.  Would I
 even need a tarp under it, or will taping to the plywood be adequate?


 To be precise, I want to build a yurt with the exact same pieces as an
 8' H12 hexayurt, but with 4 sides instead of 6.  Each side being one
 4'x8' panel, each side of the roof being made from one 4'x8' panel cut
 diagonally and then taped together to form a triangle.  I think the
 sides of that triangle would come out to:
 8' (bottom)
 8.9442719015878563' (top edge)
 8.9442719015878563' (other top edge)

 --
 Where are you going and what do you wish?
 - The Old Moon, to Winkin' Blinkin' and Nod
 http://www.ChaosReigns.com

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Re: [hexayurt] Yurt Skirt

2014-06-02 Thread Dan March
Is that a sort of Playa cammie?


On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 2:21 PM, hal muskat phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com
wrote:

 beautiful, very creative. Do you have dust color?


 On May 31, 2014, at 10:55 AM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows!

 A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for
 their yurts and yes - our only question now is, How many?  And - yes, if
 you want to DIY, we can help there too.

 The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that it
 solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways.

 The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries
 the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box.  You throw it over
 the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps
 connected to stakes.  Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so
 they're all equal and all corners line up.  Don't be silly and tension them
 so they over-stress a wall.  The mechanical advantage means you can put a
 lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam
 boards!  It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions
 equal

 I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame
 inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly
 anchored, sealable opening.  The hinges are attached to both door and frame
 with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the
 frame and door.  This means it can go through an indefinite number of
 assembly/dis-assembly cycles.  A variety of sealing systems are/can be
 used.  I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on
 the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening.  I've also put in
 magnetic holders.

 Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame.  Glazing can be
 fixed or openable.

 The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion.  Anything you can cut out
 of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work.  You can use
 thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size.  I used 5/16.  I
 placed 1/4-20 x 2.5 carriage bolts 4-6 apart around the periphery.  I
 drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just
 pushing our pounding.  I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2 diameter fender
 washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped
 down with a wing nut and regular steel washer.  The inside of the door
 frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since
 it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the
 inside too.  I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the
 sealing system.  Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full
 width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what
 gets broken first and most.  Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts.

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Re: [hexayurt] Yurt Skirt

2014-06-02 Thread Dan March
Skirts like the ones in the pics are $695.  That's for a yurt with 6 equal
8' wide sides and the usual roof pitch.  We have a few more fabrics and can
do other sizes.  Anyone can contact me directly for details.


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 12:08 AM, hal muskat phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com
wrote:

 How much for one? I think they look cool. Thanks

 peace, Phoenix

 On Jun 1, 2014, at 11:46 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 Is that a sort of Playa cammie?


 On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 2:21 PM, hal muskat phoe...@rainbowpuddle.com
 wrote:

 beautiful, very creative. Do you have dust color?


 On May 31, 2014, at 10:55 AM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows!

 A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for
 their yurts and yes - our only question now is, How many?  And - yes, if
 you want to DIY, we can help there too.

 The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that
 it solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways.

 The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries
 the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box.  You throw it over
 the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps
 connected to stakes.  Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so
 they're all equal and all corners line up.  Don't be silly and tension them
 so they over-stress a wall.  The mechanical advantage means you can put a
 lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam
 boards!  It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions
 equal

 I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame
 inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly
 anchored, sealable opening.  The hinges are attached to both door and frame
 with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the
 frame and door.  This means it can go through an indefinite number of
 assembly/dis-assembly cycles.  A variety of sealing systems are/can be
 used.  I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on
 the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening.  I've also put in
 magnetic holders.

 Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame.  Glazing can be
 fixed or openable.

 The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion.  Anything you can cut out
 of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work.  You can use
 thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size.  I used 5/16.  I
 placed 1/4-20 x 2.5 carriage bolts 4-6 apart around the periphery.  I
 drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just
 pushing our pounding.  I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2 diameter fender
 washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped
 down with a wing nut and regular steel washer.  The inside of the door
 frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since
 it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the
 inside too.  I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the
 sealing system.  Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full
 width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what
 gets broken first and most.  Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts.

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: Yurt Skirt

2014-06-02 Thread Dan March
Yeah, they'd be pricey though ;-)


On Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 8:00 AM, jeff harrison harrisonb...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Any chance of getting matching shoes and a handbag?


 On Saturday, May 31, 2014 1:55:26 PM UTC-4, BurnerDan wrote:

 I just wanted to show off my new skirt, door and matching windows!

 A few people have asked if we could make skirts and doors/windows for
 their yurts and yes - our only question now is, How many?  And - yes, if
 you want to DIY, we can help there too.

 The design is clever (I think - but hey... I'm the designer...) in that
 it solves engineering problems in more or less artistic ways.

 The skirt smooths out installation, spreads the hold-down load, carries
 the caravan theme and personalizes the big silver box.  You throw it over
 the completed, taped up yurt, align the corners and hook on cargo straps
 connected to stakes.  Go around the yurt carefully tensioning the straps so
 they're all equal and all corners line up.  Don't be silly and tension them
 so they over-stress a wall.  The mechanical advantage means you can put a
 lot of force on a strap - but don't forget you're just dealing with foam
 boards!  It's very nice because it makes it easy to get all the tensions
 equal

 I like the door design a lot because it basically clamps on a door frame
 inside and out, gently squeezing the foam board and providing a firmly
 anchored, sealable opening.  The hinges are attached to both door and frame
 with machine screws threaded to tee-nuts embedded in the back side of the
 frame and door.  This means it can go through an indefinite number of
 assembly/dis-assembly cycles.  A variety of sealing systems are/can be
 used.  I've put in a soft compressible edge to let the edge of the foam on
 the door mate to the foam panel surrounding the opening.  I've also put in
 magnetic holders.

 Windows follow the same principal of clamping a frame.  Glazing can be
 fixed or openable.

 The Funky Sultan look shown is just one notion.  Anything you can cut out
 of plywood and varnish, stain, paint, upholster... will work.  You can use
 thinnish plywood to save on shipping weight and size.  I used 5/16.  I
 placed 1/4-20 x 2.5 carriage bolts 4-6 apart around the periphery.  I
 drilled through the foam to insure against damage to the foam by just
 pushing our pounding.  I made a ton of somewhat flexible 2 diameter fender
 washer type things to spread out the load on the window frame and clamped
 down with a wing nut and regular steel washer.  The inside of the door
 frame can also be clamped down with the same bolts and wing nuts, but since
 it's got all kinds of loads on it, it's got a full plywood frame on the
 inside too.  I made it an inch smaller all the way around as part of the
 sealing system.  Finally, I added a 1x4 on the bottom inside for the full
 width of the panel to beef up the threshold since that seems to be what
 gets broken first and most.  Again, it has the carriage bolts and wing nuts.

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Re: [hexayurt] Alternative to tape for edge treatment

2014-05-31 Thread Dan March
Where are you and how much would you like and what size?  I'm going to
experiment with carrying a stack of 6 x 8 panels... maybe a dozen 1.5
thick, so 18 high on top of my Sprinter... see how that feels.  I could
get that size if we get ... uh... several? guys wanting it.  Pretty sure I
could do at least a little better than the Uline price.

How thick were the panels you used?  Would you do anything different this
time?  Why?

~ D


On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 2:50 PM, Oz ozpo...@gmail.com wrote:

 I used the 1 panel
 http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-15175/Corrugated-Pads/Honeycomb-Pad-48-x-96-x-1
 .

 I just got the online pallet price. I think it worked out to around $18 /
 panel for the hexacomb + shipping + radiant barrier + glue at the time I
 bought it. It's probably a little bit more now.

 -Tryp-



 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 2:41 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 What thickness did you use?  4 x 8 feet, I assume.  Did you get a special
 pallet price or Uline's published?


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Oz ozpo...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm the proud owner of a Hexacomb yurt. It's been to 3 burns and 3
 Juplayas, as well as a handful of other festivals. I covered it in radiant
 barrier and used spray adhesive to tack it to the panels. I wouldn't call
 it water-proof, but it's withstood the rain we had on playa the last 2
 years.

 I really like it and intend to build a new one this summer. The main
 problem is finding it without ordering a pallet. I got mine from ULine. A
 pallet will give you enough panels for 3 H13's if you can find others to go
 in with you.

 -Tryp-


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:44 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Anyone tried Hexacomb (engineered kraft paper panels - skins over
 orthogonally-oriented honeycomb of varying thickness... generally pretty
 rigid but not normally made up as waterproof) to make a yurt or anything?


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Rob Gordon inetlocksm...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 in another thread I proposed flex-seal good to 300 - 350 degrees C.  I
 don't know anyone who's tried it though.

 On Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:45:51 PM UTC-5, Frank H wrote:

 Thanks, Zig.

 Does anyone have any other suggestions, cautions or comments?

 - Frank

 On Monday, September 16, 2013 11:04:28 AM UTC-7, Zig wrote:

 I think roofing compound would be an exceedingly problematic idea
 here, since it will become soft if heated at all

 If you wanted to apply a flexible coating to the edges, I would look
 at liquid latex, or something similar!


 On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 10:17 AM, Frank H drhe...@gmail.com wrote:

 Has anyone tried using roofing compound, roofing patch, or any type
 of paint for sealing the edges of isocyanate foam boards prior to 
 joining
 with tape or vinyl hinges?

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: Anyone know any leads on buying a pre-made hexayurt?

2014-05-31 Thread Dan March
Hey James et al. ~

Great to see all the east o' ponders!

Yes!  We've set up tooling for a little production line - cutting,
beveling, pre-taping, etc. for R-Max panels (so far, consensus + resident
guru-queen of playa yurtdom, Julie Danger seem focused on the 1.5 thick
board).  Although we can do 4, 6 or 8' high walls, the recommendation is 6'
- also a Julie fav.  So that's 15 panels.

Then there are two more questions:

Accessories - ranging from tape/extra tape to swamp coolers to powered
ventilation, filtration, PV with or without batteries generators, lighting,
upgraded windows, door and the famous Yurt Skirt.

Transport.  If I get sufficient commitment, I can go from offering to bring
one yurt to many.  It would be very handy to just make it, and transport it
- dropping/picking up at your campsite.  Have you figured out storage?

~ Dan


On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 9:37 AM, James O'Toole 
james.oto...@ellenmacarthurfoundation.org wrote:

 Hi Burner Dan,

 My friends and I are travelling from the UK and Ireland for our second
 burn, we really want to build our own yurts but I'm concerned that we won't
 be able to do the necessary prep in the home depot carpark. Are you doing
 pre-produced or semi-prepared yurts for 2014?

 There is around 10-12 of us, so we probably need at least 2 yurts I reckon.

 Any advice/info would be very welcome.

 Cheers,

 James.


 On Thursday, 22 May 2014 16:04:10 UTC+1, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hey Dave ~  I'm set up to make and even transport yurts.  Just finished
 another 6' one I'm using to display clever add-ons including caravan-themed
 engineering upgrades that prevent the most common damage/wear/failure
 points, such as a light wood door on real hinges with threshold but still
 packs flat.  Getting pics today.

 Another thematic/engineering up-grade is my Yurt Skirt - which replaces
 the traditional rope halo to which the lines going to the stakes are
 attached.  I just brought the halo down to about 1.5' above the roof edge,
 turned it into webbing.  Then I further stabilized and decorated it by
 grabbing the most distinctive detail of a caravan tent - the
 stripped/patterned lower edge of a classic caravan tent roof - so the lunar
 lander yurt is now dressed for the occasion.  Webbing loops at each corner
 provide an attachment point for a line (could be cargo webbing with
 ratchet) to a stake.  Engineering-wise, this protects the delicate foam
 board by covering a vulnerable point and spreading the tie-down load.

 I met and spoke at length with Julie Danger (Camp Danger) and her yurt
 collaborator/dad/rocket scientist at Maker Fair last weekend, sharing yurt
 engineering, etc. They were also fascinated by my work exploring Hexacomb
 boards.  I'm prototyping  testing that material now to see if I can
 bullet-proof it against Playa - rain's the biggie.  Structurally, it's
 great - very rigid, costs less, and (unless I have to add stuff that's not
 a good idea to burn) could be consigned to the flames on departure.  If you
 know anyone interested in another eco-engineering project I'm looking at -
 bringing a paletized gassifier/generator project done in Berkeley (as
 roving art car/trash-truck-battery-charger) that could seriously reduce
 the Burning Man carbon footprint  - let me know.

 How many yurts were you looking for?

 Dan
 310 709 0563 - voice/text


 On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 3:30 AM, Dave Mansfield dtrai...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Hi Dan

 We're looking for a 6ft yurt if you're sourcing any and would love to
 maybe get involved with a group purchase if it were possible?

 Dave


 On Monday, May 5, 2014 11:54:20 PM UTC+10, BurnerDan wrote:

 Hi Kaya - I'm also building and possibly transporting.  Let me know
 what you are looking for, size-wise, etc.
 Dan

 On Saturday, April 5, 2014 3:35:52 PM UTC-7, Kaya Kachigian wrote:

 Brent, I too am looking for a pre made hexayurt. You still around?
 Kaya

 On Wednesday, July 24, 2013 8:38:41 AM UTC-7, Brent Williams Bright
 wrote:

 Hey Matt,  where are you located?  I am near Santa Cruz,CA.  What
 size hexayurt do you want?  I am putting together a hexayurt build group 
 in
 my area.  Let me know.

 On Tuesday, July 23, 2013 4:03:43 PM UTC-7, Matthew Stone wrote:

 I know its lame, but I just looked at the # of days until I leave
 for the burn and the amount of work I have left to do, and there's no 
 way
 I'm going to be able to build a hexayurt on top of the other projects 
 I'm
 working on. Was wondering if anyone knew where I could buy one or had 
 one
 to sell.

 Thanks,

 Matt

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Re: [hexayurt] Alternative to tape for edge treatment

2014-05-31 Thread Dan March
Cool.  Looks like 10 4x8 sheets to me.  Want to do it in 1.5 thick?


On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 1:48 PM, Ronald Pottol ronaldpot...@gmail.com
wrote:

 I'm interested in a buy, I'm in Redwood City, not sure, I was going for  a
 stretched small hexayurt (4 4x4, 2 4x8 sides), I'd need to look at designs
 for these panels.


 On Sat, May 31, 2014 at 9:48 AM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com wrote:

 Where are you and how much would you like and what size?  I'm going to
 experiment with carrying a stack of 6 x 8 panels... maybe a dozen 1.5
 thick, so 18 high on top of my Sprinter... see how that feels.  I could
 get that size if we get ... uh... several? guys wanting it.  Pretty sure I
 could do at least a little better than the Uline price.

 How thick were the panels you used?  Would you do anything different this
 time?  Why?

 ~ D


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 2:50 PM, Oz ozpo...@gmail.com wrote:

 I used the 1 panel
 http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-15175/Corrugated-Pads/Honeycomb-Pad-48-x-96-x-1
 .

 I just got the online pallet price. I think it worked out to around $18
 / panel for the hexacomb + shipping + radiant barrier + glue at the time I
 bought it. It's probably a little bit more now.

 -Tryp-



 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 2:41 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 What thickness did you use?  4 x 8 feet, I assume.  Did you get a
 special pallet price or Uline's published?


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Oz ozpo...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm the proud owner of a Hexacomb yurt. It's been to 3 burns and 3
 Juplayas, as well as a handful of other festivals. I covered it in radiant
 barrier and used spray adhesive to tack it to the panels. I wouldn't call
 it water-proof, but it's withstood the rain we had on playa the last 2
 years.

 I really like it and intend to build a new one this summer. The main
 problem is finding it without ordering a pallet. I got mine from ULine. A
 pallet will give you enough panels for 3 H13's if you can find others to 
 go
 in with you.

 -Tryp-


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:44 PM, Dan March dr.dan.ma...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Anyone tried Hexacomb (engineered kraft paper panels - skins over
 orthogonally-oriented honeycomb of varying thickness... generally pretty
 rigid but not normally made up as waterproof) to make a yurt or anything?


 On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 1:33 PM, Rob Gordon inetlocksm...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 in another thread I proposed flex-seal good to 300 - 350 degrees C.
  I don't know anyone who's tried it though.

 On Tuesday, September 17, 2013 2:45:51 PM UTC-5, Frank H wrote:

 Thanks, Zig.

 Does anyone have any other suggestions, cautions or comments?

 - Frank

 On Monday, September 16, 2013 11:04:28 AM UTC-7, Zig wrote:

 I think roofing compound would be an exceedingly problematic idea
 here, since it will become soft if heated at all

 If you wanted to apply a flexible coating to the edges, I would
 look at liquid latex, or something similar!


 On Mon, Sep 16, 2013 at 10:17 AM, Frank H drhe...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Has anyone tried using roofing compound, roofing patch, or any
 type of paint for sealing the edges of isocyanate foam boards prior 
 to
 joining with tape or vinyl hinges?

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: 3M FSK (fiberglass reinforced foil tape)

2014-05-30 Thread Dan March
Point taken  thanks!

Check these guys out for pricing on other mfr's versions:
http://www.findtape.com/shop/results.aspx?keywords=FSK%20%28Aluminum/Scrim/Kraft%29%20%26%20ASJ%20Tape


On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 8:22 AM, Alexander Griffin real...@gmail.com
wrote:

 So what?  BiDi tape far exceeds the strength of Isocyanurate board, and
 FSK appears to be sufficiently strong to handle Playa conditions.  Your
 yurt is only as strong as its weakest link, and I don't think the FSK is it.
 --Wolf


 On Thursday, May 29, 2014 1:41:08 PM UTC-4, BurnerDan wrote:

 I just got some tech specs on FSK tapes from 6 other makers and none
 publish a tensile strength over 30 - vs. 220 for regular bidi.

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: 3M FSK (fiberglass reinforced foil tape)

2014-05-29 Thread Dan March
I just got some tech specs on FSK tapes from 6 other makers and none
publish a tensile strength over 30 - vs. 220 for regular bidi.


On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 12:30 PM, Alexander Griffin real...@gmail.comwrote:



 On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 11:31:24 AM UTC-4, RichShumaker wrote:

 $12.05 clearance on 4 50 yards FSK at Grainger.  Down from $39.
  Probably won't last long and only having to tape once sounds dreamlike
 hehehe.



 Damn!  I must have missed the sale.  That was a fantastically good price
 and I would have bought a lot. :-)

 --Wolf

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Re: [hexayurt] Commercial buy or rent hexayurt availability

2014-05-04 Thread Dan March
I will have a Hexacomb version in testing this week and will write up a
description, pros, cons and price in a week or so.  I am also looking at a
service to deliver both Hexacomb and a slightly refined 1.5 RMax version
to  from the Playa/SF/LA.  Both will be available with 6' wall heights.
Production goals are 100 of each.

Hexacomb is essentially kraft paper - two heavy sheets with a core of
hexagonal kraft paper cells resisting compression of the skins.  As such,
they are renewable, biodegradable and burnable.  We're hoping for a lower
price point.  While we're pretty sure about strength, waterproofing and
temperature modulation are challenges.  Reflective tarps are one likely
answer.  Stay tuned.


On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 6:22 AM, Vinay Gupta (Hexayurt Shelter Project) 
hexay...@gmail.com wrote:


 Quick question: how many vendors do we have on list?

 Roughly how many units do you expect to do this year?

 Are you at capacity or could you do more?

 V

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Re: [hexayurt] Re: First Rough Build - Readi-Board

2014-05-01 Thread Dan March
When you see someone talking about a 10' high yurt with 8' wide sides,
they've probably created 6' high sides by using 1.5 4x8 panels, right?  And
how has that worked out structurally?


On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Rob Gordon inetlocksm...@gmail.com wrote:

 2nd attempt.  Bit bigger.  $15.00 investment.


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ev-E5sUjbQg/U1rR0sbJitI/ArA/BVxy-0Bd0TM/s1600/20140424_214515.jpg

 On Saturday, April 12, 2014 9:40:09 PM UTC-5, Rob Gordon wrote:


 Practice run on the hexayurt using $4 of Readi-Board .  Figure I need to
 build another two before I get some things right.



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