Re: [MBZ] '85 300CD battery question

2007-08-31 Thread Levi Smith
Woah, I literally, read this message, went on to the next one and then
paused and said Was that the banned list?
Then I came back to this message and realized we were talking about battery
replacement.

On THAT topic, I will also comment that I didn't think it was very difficult
to change the battery in my 83' 300D...

Levi

On 8/31/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 10 minutes?  Takes me less than 2 minutes.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 FSBO Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 12:09 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '85 300CD battery question


  WOW, I can RR a 123 battery in less than 10 mins.  I much prefer the
 pull
  out drop in of the 126.  Remove the air cleaner.  Have new rubber air
  cleaner mounts handy if yours are bad.
 
  Luther
 
  On Thu, 30 Aug 2007 18:46:37 -0500, andrew strasfogel
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Pull off the long rubber strip on the edge beneath the front w/s -
  that will help. This is a tough job!   It took the Mercedes Roadside
  tech 45 minutes to change the battery in her '85 300CD.  I came out
  ahead in that deal (battery cost $137 installed, IIRC)
 
 
 
 
 
  --
  Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
  '87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
  '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
  '82 300CD (166 kmi)
  '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
  '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
 
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Re: [MBZ] Craigs list all over

2007-08-28 Thread Levi Smith
There's more to it, there's something at the top of the page that says
seeing homepages or some such thing with some further instructions.  I
didn't try too much to get past it...

On 8/28/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I just tried the search, for some reason it does not go to the category
 in each city and spit out results, but if you put your keyword in the
 search for that city it does, individually.  Maybe they don't have it
 sorted quite right or something.

 --R

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  So what is the benefit?  All I can seem to make it do is bring up a
 bunch
  of homepages at once.  I guess that's a bit better but I couldn't get it
  to search a whole list of areas and actually give me results.
 
  Am I doing it wrong?
 
  Mike
 
 
  http://www.crazedlist.org/
 
  Someone was asking about this a week or two ago
 
  --R
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Honda Timing Belt

2007-08-18 Thread Levi Smith
I'm thinking it depends on what sort of auto experience you have.  If you're
used to dealing with Japanese cars, you should be used to dealing with
timing belts.  I've been well versed with them for about 12 years.  You
generally replace timing belts in the 60-100K mile range depending on the
vehicle.  If not, you can usually find good deals on cars with blown engines
from people who didn't bother to replace them.  I've done two in my wife's
Subaru and I'm nearing time for the 4th in my Subee.

Levi

On 8/18/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I will recommend that we get that belt replaced soon.

 This is really interesting to me though, as I wasn't aware, and I
 don't think the general public is aware, that these cars are something
 close to a time bomb in that they are very likely to just go belly up
 at a certain point. All I knew was that these Hondas were very
 reliable and would last a long time. But according to this info., they
 are reliable, with a very severe caveat.

 You would think that it would be better known that these cars will
 just quit at around 100k or whatever the designated mileage is.

 Brian

 On 8/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  Redghost wrote:
   JUST REPLACE IT.  Not worth the $400 to open it up and see if you can
   squeeze a few thousand more miles out.   I had an acura that said to
   change the belt at 90k.  It was not joking.  I made it to 91,231
   before the belt let loose and I was in it for $2500 to rebuild the
   top end.  Valves slapped all over the place.  Should have just gone
   in and paid my $400 for the belt right at 90k
 
  I would never let one go more than five years in an interference engine.
  Also would not exceed mfr's mileage recommendation. Still no guarantee,
  but if you replace the CRV's belt now you will be safe (unless it
  breaks on the way to the shop). A friend lost the belt on her '87 Escort
  at around 35k in 1988. She was not pleased, but at least it was a 1.9Lso
  all it cost her was a tow bill and $200. This  car went about 150 miles
 a
  day on the freeway, with a 5 speed. She gave it to her little brother
 when
  she bought an Escort GT in '89, AFAIK it did not break the belt again so
  I'm guessing a defective belt.
 
  Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Speedo accuracy - GPS

2007-08-17 Thread Levi Smith
My Mio 310x has them all on internal 1gb flash for about $200.

On 8/17/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The iWay has all the maps already installed on the internal 20 gig
 harddrive
 for all of north america.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor
 918-746-1400 x305
 - Original Message -
 From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 8:22 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Speedo accuracy - GPS


  That sort of thing can be a good option for small $.  I picked up a
 small
  unit that plugged into both my laptop and my IPAQ [PCI slot?].  Using it
  with a map program on the laptop was quite easy and accurate.  I have
 maps
  for my handheld that cover the entire country one county at a time, but
  they
  are not easy to use due to the small size of the display and the lack of
  features.
  BillR
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
  Sent: Friday, August 17, 2007 9:02 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Speedo accuracy
 
  Fry's has the DeLorme you plug into your laptop for $30 in today's
  flyer.  Or outpost.com
 
  --R
 
  Fmiser wrote:
  It seems than at Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:16:13 -0500, Wonko wrote:
 
 
  Want to loan me your GPS so I can check the accuracy of the Quantum?
  Loren
  thinks it is accurate, I think it reads 10 mph high.
 
  I am not joking -- I will pay postage both ways or bring it to the
  IowaQ.
 
 
  $60 buys a basic GPS new.
 
  --Philip
 
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Re: [MBZ] greasercar

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
Maybe there's someone on the street you don't like that you could give it to
then?

Or perhaps you'd like to invest and make it look just like new!  (:

Levi


On 8/15/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If I parked that thing on my street, the neighbors would be out front with
 torches and a rope. For me.

 RLE


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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
No, the speakers and amp were put in by the PO.  It didn't come with a radio
though, so I found one down in the basement that fit in there, then just put
in an rca jack switch to plug in my ipod.  (:

Curious though, what exactly did you see as far as speakers go?  That's like
the one thing I don't notice.  (:

Levi

On 8/15/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd say butt ugly except I don't want to insult my butt.

 Did ya do that custom speaker installation yourself or take it to a shop?

 :-)





 --
 LT Don
 http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

 Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
No, I only sped up the sections on the road.  The oil gauge is pretty much
up to max immediately, and as I recall it was like that with regular oil
when I first got the car.  I believe after it warms up it will drop to
around a bar at idle.

Levi

On 8/16/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 One thing that I took note of is how fast your oil gauge pegged upon
 startup. I'm guessing that's going to be a feature of Mobil 1? Or were
 you already in fast-forward filming mode at that point?

 My oil gauges move up to around 1 bar after a couple seconds or so
 after startup, then stay there for around five seconds, then go ahead
 and move up to pegged.

 Brian

 On 8/15/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Well, I guess it's about time to officially say that my car is for sale
  since I've still got a 97' Subaru to sell besides this and there's a
  *chance* I might be able to at least trade that one in and I'm planning
 on
  getting a Prius of some sort in less than 2 months.
 
  So...
  It's an 83' 300D with a Greasecar kit installed.  (Start on diesel until
  it's warmed up, then switch to veggie, and switch back to diesel a
 minute
  before you shut it off.)
  Car is not pretty and the trunk is very oily.  But it runs reliably.
 
  Starter is about a year old, exhaust is only a few months old, except
 that
  the flex piece broke off so it's a bit louder than stock though
 certainly
  not unbearable.
  Tires are mismatched and lousy(barely legal).  I've got at least 2, if
 not 5
  other tires that are at least decent that I would toss in.
  Keyless entry
  Vaccuum works other than not holding vacuum for more than a few minutes
  after shutoff.  (and potentially the ACC vent).  ACC works as well as I
  assume it should.  Seems like it keeps more air on the windshield than
 it's
  supposed to, but it's never been a problem.  AC is cool as usual(not
  COLD).  It's fine on the highway, but if it's 90F out and you're sitting
  still, you're probably going to get warm.
  Cruise works
  AM/FM/Amp with ipod jack(or whatever you want to plug in)
  moonroof works
  windows work with the exception of a flaky left rear which I believe is
 some
  loose wires since it started acting up after I pushed it past a slight
 bit
  of resistance that I believe to be wires that were caught.
  tach is dead (though I've got a spare tach sending unit if you want to
 mess
  with it)
  odo is at the hold in the button to keep it rolling phase
  It's had Mobil 1 15w-50 for the last year or so that I've owned it.
  New battery this past winter
  Some rust spots popping up, but nothing structural yet.
  Hella Euro headlights with +50 bulbs.
  I've added electric fuel pumps for both the diesel and veg sides.
  I get about 1000 miles between veg filter changes.  Which is around how
  often I refill with diesel.
  I'll include about 10 more veg filters for the car and a set of spare
 diesel
  filters
  I'm also including my filtering setup (heated barrel with
  jeans/pump/goldenrod filter) and about 5 more goldenrod filters
  Also including about 100 gallons of filtered wvo ready to go.
  If you want a veggie supplier in Addison, NY you can take over mine.
  Including a MB Service Manual CD, and a Haynes repair manual.
  Few spare parts like starters, alternator, head, egr valve, thermostat,
  speedo...  think that's most of it.  Can't say for sure if they're any
 good
  or not.
  I think the car has around 400K miles on it and the engine has about
 300K on
  it.
 
  I've also got a spare set of wheels with Blizzaks on them that were only
  used for about a month this past winter.  I think I'll try to sell those
  separately, but for the right price I might include them.
 
  Basically, the car doesn't look great, but it runs good and you can do a
 lot
  of driving for free.  But it can be messy and time consuming to collect
 and
  filter the fuel and I'm tired of monkeying with it so I'm getting a
 Prius.
 
  I'm located near Corning, NY.
  I really haven't figured out what these are worth so I'm probably on
 crack
  but I'm going to start off asking for $3000, but please feel free to
 make
  any offers if you're interested.
 
 
  Pictures can be found here:
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/levigsmith/sets/72157601403895227
 
  Video can be found here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v957832fNWNF55B
  Which includes part of a drive.  If you want to see the entire 13 minute
  trip around the block, that's here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v9578674FHDJhSS
 
 
  Thanks,
  Levi
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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
Are you looking for just the Benz parts or the Greasecar parts?
I'm still not at all sure what it's worth, but I see the greasecar kit is
about $1K now, so I might potentially think about selling them
separately...
Though at this point, I think I'm getting an 01-03 Prius and if that's the
case, my fallback is that it's worth about $1k in trade to a dealer who's
got a wrecked Prius I could use for spare parts.  Though I think he just
wants the engine...
But I'm still waiting for another couple weeks to see if I somehow managed
to win a new one from over in Ithaca...  Of course if that happens then I
won't be as worried about how much I get out of the car...  (:

Levi

On 8/15/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd be interested in it for a parts car for my TD but not at that kind of
 price..Let me know when it gets to parts car price or you want to
 sell parts.  Or if you wanted to trade for something maybe we could work
 something out.

 Mike

  Well, I guess it's about time to officially say that my car is for sale
  since I've still got a 97' Subaru to sell besides this and there's a
  *chance* I might be able to at least trade that one in and I'm planning
  on
  getting a Prius of some sort in less than 2 months.
 
  So...
  It's an 83' 300D with a Greasecar kit installed.  (Start on diesel until
  it's warmed up, then switch to veggie, and switch back to diesel a
 minute
  before you shut it off.)
  Car is not pretty and the trunk is very oily.  But it runs reliably.
 
  Starter is about a year old, exhaust is only a few months old, except
  that
  the flex piece broke off so it's a bit louder than stock though
 certainly
  not unbearable.
  Tires are mismatched and lousy(barely legal).  I've got at least 2, if
 not
  5
  other tires that are at least decent that I would toss in.
  Keyless entry
  Vaccuum works other than not holding vacuum for more than a few minutes
  after shutoff.  (and potentially the ACC vent).  ACC works as well as I
  assume it should.  Seems like it keeps more air on the windshield than
  it's
  supposed to, but it's never been a problem.  AC is cool as usual(not
  COLD).  It's fine on the highway, but if it's 90F out and you're sitting
  still, you're probably going to get warm.
  Cruise works
  AM/FM/Amp with ipod jack(or whatever you want to plug in)
  moonroof works
  windows work with the exception of a flaky left rear which I believe is
  some
  loose wires since it started acting up after I pushed it past a slight
  bit
  of resistance that I believe to be wires that were caught.
  tach is dead (though I've got a spare tach sending unit if you want to
  mess
  with it)
  odo is at the hold in the button to keep it rolling phase
  It's had Mobil 1 15w-50 for the last year or so that I've owned it.
  New battery this past winter
  Some rust spots popping up, but nothing structural yet.
  Hella Euro headlights with +50 bulbs.
  I've added electric fuel pumps for both the diesel and veg sides.
  I get about 1000 miles between veg filter changes.  Which is around how
  often I refill with diesel.
  I'll include about 10 more veg filters for the car and a set of spare
  diesel
  filters
  I'm also including my filtering setup (heated barrel with
  jeans/pump/goldenrod filter) and about 5 more goldenrod filters
  Also including about 100 gallons of filtered wvo ready to go.
  If you want a veggie supplier in Addison, NY you can take over mine.
  Including a MB Service Manual CD, and a Haynes repair manual.
  Few spare parts like starters, alternator, head, egr valve, thermostat,
  speedo...  think that's most of it.  Can't say for sure if they're any
  good
  or not.
  I think the car has around 400K miles on it and the engine has about
 300K
  on
  it.
 
  I've also got a spare set of wheels with Blizzaks on them that were only
  used for about a month this past winter.  I think I'll try to sell those
  separately, but for the right price I might include them.
 
  Basically, the car doesn't look great, but it runs good and you can do a
  lot
  of driving for free.  But it can be messy and time consuming to collect
  and
  filter the fuel and I'm tired of monkeying with it so I'm getting a
  Prius.
 
  I'm located near Corning, NY.
  I really haven't figured out what these are worth so I'm probably on
  crack
  but I'm going to start off asking for $3000, but please feel free to
 make
  any offers if you're interested.
 
 
  Pictures can be found here:
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/levigsmith/sets/72157601403895227
 
  Video can be found here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v957832fNWNF55B
  Which includes part of a drive.  If you want to see the entire 13 minute
  trip around the block, that's here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v9578674FHDJhSS
 
 
  Thanks,
  Levi
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To 

Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
Hmm, no speakers there that I'm aware of...  There are other things hanging
around there though depending on what sides or whereabouts...  (:

On 8/16/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I thought I saw a speaker hanging down from under the dash, by the
 console?
 Maybe it was my imagination.

 On 8/16/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 
  Curious though, what exactly did you see as far as speakers go?  That's
  like
  the one thing I don't notice.  (:
 
 


 --
 LT Don
 http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

 Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-16 Thread Levi Smith
Well, in the Benz case the PO installed an amp, so I just put an RCA jack
switch inline between the radio and the amp.

Without an amp, the easiest options are cassette tape adapters or FM
transmitters.  It's been a while since I've done the tape deck, but I've had
trouble finding any FM transmitters that sounded very decent at all.  That's
what I use when I have to, but it's not near as good.  The FM modulators
that plug in the antenna cable would definitely be better but more work...

Levi

On 8/16/07, Kevin Kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 an rca jack switch to plug in my ipod.

 This is an issue with my Sprinter as well since it doesn't have an ipod
 jack.  Are you referring to the type that hooks into the antenna cable for
 FM modulation?  This would work in my situation although I may just swap
 the
 old deck for a better one that's also Ipod compatible.

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula
 2006 Sprinter PV 870mi


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[MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-15 Thread Levi Smith
Well, I guess it's about time to officially say that my car is for sale
since I've still got a 97' Subaru to sell besides this and there's a
*chance* I might be able to at least trade that one in and I'm planning on
getting a Prius of some sort in less than 2 months.

So...
It's an 83' 300D with a Greasecar kit installed.  (Start on diesel until
it's warmed up, then switch to veggie, and switch back to diesel a minute
before you shut it off.)
Car is not pretty and the trunk is very oily.  But it runs reliably.

Starter is about a year old, exhaust is only a few months old, except that
the flex piece broke off so it's a bit louder than stock though certainly
not unbearable.
Tires are mismatched and lousy(barely legal).  I've got at least 2, if not 5
other tires that are at least decent that I would toss in.
Keyless entry
Vaccuum works other than not holding vacuum for more than a few minutes
after shutoff.  (and potentially the ACC vent).  ACC works as well as I
assume it should.  Seems like it keeps more air on the windshield than it's
supposed to, but it's never been a problem.  AC is cool as usual(not
COLD).  It's fine on the highway, but if it's 90F out and you're sitting
still, you're probably going to get warm.
Cruise works
AM/FM/Amp with ipod jack(or whatever you want to plug in)
moonroof works
windows work with the exception of a flaky left rear which I believe is some
loose wires since it started acting up after I pushed it past a slight bit
of resistance that I believe to be wires that were caught.
tach is dead (though I've got a spare tach sending unit if you want to mess
with it)
odo is at the hold in the button to keep it rolling phase
It's had Mobil 1 15w-50 for the last year or so that I've owned it.
New battery this past winter
Some rust spots popping up, but nothing structural yet.
Hella Euro headlights with +50 bulbs.
I've added electric fuel pumps for both the diesel and veg sides.
I get about 1000 miles between veg filter changes.  Which is around how
often I refill with diesel.
I'll include about 10 more veg filters for the car and a set of spare diesel
filters
I'm also including my filtering setup (heated barrel with
jeans/pump/goldenrod filter) and about 5 more goldenrod filters
Also including about 100 gallons of filtered wvo ready to go.
If you want a veggie supplier in Addison, NY you can take over mine.
Including a MB Service Manual CD, and a Haynes repair manual.
Few spare parts like starters, alternator, head, egr valve, thermostat,
speedo...  think that's most of it.  Can't say for sure if they're any good
or not.
I think the car has around 400K miles on it and the engine has about 300K on
it.

I've also got a spare set of wheels with Blizzaks on them that were only
used for about a month this past winter.  I think I'll try to sell those
separately, but for the right price I might include them.

Basically, the car doesn't look great, but it runs good and you can do a lot
of driving for free.  But it can be messy and time consuming to collect and
filter the fuel and I'm tired of monkeying with it so I'm getting a Prius.

I'm located near Corning, NY.
I really haven't figured out what these are worth so I'm probably on crack
but I'm going to start off asking for $3000, but please feel free to make
any offers if you're interested.


Pictures can be found here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/levigsmith/sets/72157601403895227

Video can be found here:
http://www.veoh.com/videos/v957832fNWNF55B
Which includes part of a drive.  If you want to see the entire 13 minute
trip around the block, that's here:
http://www.veoh.com/videos/v9578674FHDJhSS


Thanks,
Levi
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[MBZ] Set of alloys with Blizzaks with 1 month of use from 83' 300D for sale?

2007-08-15 Thread Levi Smith
I mentioned it in the other long e-mail, but thought I'd make this a
separate one.

Anyone interested in a set of Blizzaks with about 1 month of use on them on
a set of alloys from an 83' 300D?  I don't recall any problems with the
wheels other than they might be dirty and I wouldn't swear that all 4 of
them have center caps.

Any chance they're worth like $400?  Or would anyone be interested at a
lower price?

Still not sure if I'm selling them with the car or separate, but I'm leaning
towards separate...

Thanks,
Levi
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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-15 Thread Levi Smith
Told ya!  (:

(though honestly I'm more surprised that the first response wasn't I'll
give ya $50 for it or something like that)

Levi (:

On 8/15/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 man thats ugly

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com; Diesel Mercedes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 10:20 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale


  Well, I guess it's about time to officially say that my car is for sale
  since I've still got a 97' Subaru to sell besides this and there's a
  *chance* I might be able to at least trade that one in and I'm planning
 on
  getting a Prius of some sort in less than 2 months.
 
  So...
  It's an 83' 300D with a Greasecar kit installed.  (Start on diesel until
  it's warmed up, then switch to veggie, and switch back to diesel a
 minute
  before you shut it off.)
  Car is not pretty and the trunk is very oily.  But it runs reliably.
 
  Starter is about a year old, exhaust is only a few months old, except
 that
  the flex piece broke off so it's a bit louder than stock though
 certainly
  not unbearable.
  Tires are mismatched and lousy(barely legal).  I've got at least 2, if
 not
  5
  other tires that are at least decent that I would toss in.
  Keyless entry
  Vaccuum works other than not holding vacuum for more than a few minutes
  after shutoff.  (and potentially the ACC vent).  ACC works as well as I
  assume it should.  Seems like it keeps more air on the windshield than
  it's
  supposed to, but it's never been a problem.  AC is cool as usual(not
  COLD).  It's fine on the highway, but if it's 90F out and you're sitting
  still, you're probably going to get warm.
  Cruise works
  AM/FM/Amp with ipod jack(or whatever you want to plug in)
  moonroof works
  windows work with the exception of a flaky left rear which I believe is
  some
  loose wires since it started acting up after I pushed it past a slight
 bit
  of resistance that I believe to be wires that were caught.
  tach is dead (though I've got a spare tach sending unit if you want to
  mess
  with it)
  odo is at the hold in the button to keep it rolling phase
  It's had Mobil 1 15w-50 for the last year or so that I've owned it.
  New battery this past winter
  Some rust spots popping up, but nothing structural yet.
  Hella Euro headlights with +50 bulbs.
  I've added electric fuel pumps for both the diesel and veg sides.
  I get about 1000 miles between veg filter changes.  Which is around how
  often I refill with diesel.
  I'll include about 10 more veg filters for the car and a set of spare
  diesel
  filters
  I'm also including my filtering setup (heated barrel with
  jeans/pump/goldenrod filter) and about 5 more goldenrod filters
  Also including about 100 gallons of filtered wvo ready to go.
  If you want a veggie supplier in Addison, NY you can take over mine.
  Including a MB Service Manual CD, and a Haynes repair manual.
  Few spare parts like starters, alternator, head, egr valve, thermostat,
  speedo...  think that's most of it.  Can't say for sure if they're any
  good
  or not.
  I think the car has around 400K miles on it and the engine has about
 300K
  on
  it.
 
  I've also got a spare set of wheels with Blizzaks on them that were only
  used for about a month this past winter.  I think I'll try to sell those
  separately, but for the right price I might include them.
 
  Basically, the car doesn't look great, but it runs good and you can do a
  lot
  of driving for free.  But it can be messy and time consuming to collect
  and
  filter the fuel and I'm tired of monkeying with it so I'm getting a
 Prius.
 
  I'm located near Corning, NY.
  I really haven't figured out what these are worth so I'm probably on
 crack
  but I'm going to start off asking for $3000, but please feel free to
 make
  any offers if you're interested.
 
 
  Pictures can be found here:
  http://www.flickr.com/photos/levigsmith/sets/72157601403895227
 
  Video can be found here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v957832fNWNF55B
  Which includes part of a drive.  If you want to see the entire 13 minute
  trip around the block, that's here:
  http://www.veoh.com/videos/v9578674FHDJhSS
 
 
  Thanks,
  Levi
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
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For new

Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale

2007-08-15 Thread Levi Smith
Oh come on, it would only take about $3 of diesel to drive it to you.
(assuming you could fit enough oil in the trunk).  (:

ACTUALLY...  If you wanna see what that baby'll REALLY do, check out this
video:
http://www.veoh.com/videos/v958722BTrfEgX5

Levi

On 8/15/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 you can pay me $50 to haul that thing off :)

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message -
 From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2007 11:09 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D Greasecar for sale


  Told ya!  (:
 
  (though honestly I'm more surprised that the first response wasn't I'll
  give ya $50 for it or something like that)
 
  Levi (:
 
 

 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-03 Thread Levi Smith
Ahh, I do see an in-transit permit on nysdmv.com Hmm, I kinda think they
might figure out that I've already registered the car before and not let
that one fly...  And I suppose if I have to pay $10, it's not THAT much
worse to pay $46 or whatever just for the ease of dealing with it,
especially for probably more than 30 days...

Thanks for the info though!
Levi

On 8/2/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Go to the DMV, prove you have insurance and fill out the form for a 30 day
 temporary transit tag.  Allows transporting to and from certain places as
 stated when you fill out the formYou might want to fib a little
 about what you intend to do with it.Costs a whoppin huge 10 bucks
 and the title doesn't even have to be in your name!!

 Mike

  Where/how can you get a paper tag for $10?  I thought NY was a pain
 cause
  there was no such thing as a temp tag?  Or is this something else?
 
  Levi
 
  On 8/2/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
 
  If it will run and drive you can put insurance on it and buy a paper
  tag
  for 10 bucks.
 
  Mike
 
   Do you folks have repair plates? Around here the garages usually
  have
  a
   repair plate that can be used to
   transport a vehicle to the garage. The garage will usually lend you
  the
   plate in order to get the vehicle in.
  
   Some places also will sell you a one day permit to move a vehicle. I
  know
   you can get one here to move a vehicle to
   another province. Don't know if you can get one to move a vehicle
  within
   the province. Would probably have to have
   a current safety certificate to do that in any event.
  
   Another option is to get a tow truck. It will be cheaper in the long
  run
   than a ticket or an accident if you get
   caught or if things go wrong. I had a Jeep towed home for my younger
  son
  a
   month or so ago and and it cost $70 for
   a tow of 5 miles or so. I was tempted to tow it behind one of our
  trucks
   but also thought it would cost more than
   the tow to replace the back bumper on the truck if the Jeep happened
  to
   bump me.
  
   I have towed with  just a rope. I towed a friend about 35 miles. He
  had
  a
   mid 80's full size Cadillac with an
   engine knock. He kept the motor running to provide power steering and
   brakes and I towed him with my old Chevy
   pickup. It was pretty smooth. You really want to be able to trust the
   other driver no matter whether you are in the
   tow vehicle or the towed vehicle.
  
   Also towed a Chevy pickup home from about 50 miles away on a 1/2
  nylon
   rope behind a Ford pickup many years ago.
   No real problem. I drove the tow vehicle and my father steered the
  towed
   vehicle. I don't think he trusted me to
   not hit him from behind. I was pretty young then and he just
  instructed
  me
   to keep the speed down to about 40 mph
   and let him worry about not running into the back of me. It was
  pretty
   hilly country and we slowed a bit going up
   hills but there was not much traffic and we got home fine.
  
   Randy - in Winnipeg
  
   -Original Message-
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Levi Smith
   Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:43 AM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?
  
  
   Anyone happen to know what the legality is of towing an unregistered
  car
   in
   NY?
  
   I've got a Subaru that needs fixing and I think I may let someone
  else
  do
   it, but it's not registered...  I'm thinking I would tow it down and
  then
   maybe just attach the strap and mock-tow it back(assuming it runs
  then),
   but
   it wouldn't have plates either way...  And it does go right past a
  police
   station...
  
   Anyone know if that's legal or not?  I was thinking it was...  But
  then
  I
   couldn't quite see how it could be if you can't pull a trailer
  without
   plates...
  
   Thanks,
   Levi
   ___
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   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-03 Thread Levi Smith
Hmm...  I haven't seen many of those here at the moment, though there are
some over at my parents house, they drive a John Deere Gator back and forth
to the farm(they do live in the country).

I'm guessing there may be a few more down in Houston than up here in NY...

On 8/3/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Just pretend you are a guest worker and you won't need insurance, a
 drivers license, registration, or ownership.  Works here in Houston
 quite well. And you won't even need to know how to drive either, just go.

 --R
 

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[MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-02 Thread Levi Smith
Anyone happen to know what the legality is of towing an unregistered car in
NY?

I've got a Subaru that needs fixing and I think I may let someone else do
it, but it's not registered...  I'm thinking I would tow it down and then
maybe just attach the strap and mock-tow it back(assuming it runs then), but
it wouldn't have plates either way...  And it does go right past a police
station...

Anyone know if that's legal or not?  I was thinking it was...  But then I
couldn't quite see how it could be if you can't pull a trailer without
plates...

Thanks,
Levi
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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-02 Thread Levi Smith
Yeah, that's about what I figured...  Well my dad has a truck and trailer
but that's over in Hornell, so the extra cost to drive it might suck out as
much as other thoughts...
I'm wondering what the minimum cost would be to re-register it would be.
Looks like probably $46 for the year even if I only do it for a couple weeks
and then whatever insurance runs on top of that...

Just a pain with trying to sell two cars, buying a new one and trying to
keep only one registered...  Especially now that this one needs to get fixed
and it's not registered...

Levi

On 8/2/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Levi,
   I tow cars all of the time..It is illegal to tow with a strap unless
 the car has tags.

 You need to use a towbar to be legal...Simply take a piece of
 heavy pipe and run a chain through the middle and attach it to both cars
 as tight as you can get itThe cops really look for if you are
 being safe and smooth while towing rather than what you are towing with
 around here.

 If you need, I have a trailer if you have a truckMy truck will be
 up and running again soon.

 Mike




  Anyone happen to know what the legality is of towing an unregistered car
  in
  NY?
 
  I've got a Subaru that needs fixing and I think I may let someone else
 do
  it, but it's not registered...  I'm thinking I would tow it down and
 then
  maybe just attach the strap and mock-tow it back(assuming it runs then),
  but
  it wouldn't have plates either way...  And it does go right past a
 police
  station...
 
  Anyone know if that's legal or not?  I was thinking it was...  But then
 I
  couldn't quite see how it could be if you can't pull a trailer without
  plates...
 
  Thanks,
  Levi
  ___
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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-02 Thread Levi Smith
Where/how can you get a paper tag for $10?  I thought NY was a pain cause
there was no such thing as a temp tag?  Or is this something else?

Levi

On 8/2/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 If it will run and drive you can put insurance on it and buy a paper tag
 for 10 bucks.

 Mike

  Do you folks have repair plates? Around here the garages usually have
 a
  repair plate that can be used to
  transport a vehicle to the garage. The garage will usually lend you the
  plate in order to get the vehicle in.
 
  Some places also will sell you a one day permit to move a vehicle. I
 know
  you can get one here to move a vehicle to
  another province. Don't know if you can get one to move a vehicle within
  the province. Would probably have to have
  a current safety certificate to do that in any event.
 
  Another option is to get a tow truck. It will be cheaper in the long run
  than a ticket or an accident if you get
  caught or if things go wrong. I had a Jeep towed home for my younger son
 a
  month or so ago and and it cost $70 for
  a tow of 5 miles or so. I was tempted to tow it behind one of our trucks
  but also thought it would cost more than
  the tow to replace the back bumper on the truck if the Jeep happened to
  bump me.
 
  I have towed with  just a rope. I towed a friend about 35 miles. He had
 a
  mid 80's full size Cadillac with an
  engine knock. He kept the motor running to provide power steering and
  brakes and I towed him with my old Chevy
  pickup. It was pretty smooth. You really want to be able to trust the
  other driver no matter whether you are in the
  tow vehicle or the towed vehicle.
 
  Also towed a Chevy pickup home from about 50 miles away on a 1/2 nylon
  rope behind a Ford pickup many years ago.
  No real problem. I drove the tow vehicle and my father steered the towed
  vehicle. I don't think he trusted me to
  not hit him from behind. I was pretty young then and he just instructed
 me
  to keep the speed down to about 40 mph
  and let him worry about not running into the back of me. It was pretty
  hilly country and we slowed a bit going up
  hills but there was not much traffic and we got home fine.
 
  Randy - in Winnipeg
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Levi Smith
  Sent: Thursday, August 02, 2007 10:43 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?
 
 
  Anyone happen to know what the legality is of towing an unregistered car
  in
  NY?
 
  I've got a Subaru that needs fixing and I think I may let someone else
 do
  it, but it's not registered...  I'm thinking I would tow it down and
 then
  maybe just attach the strap and mock-tow it back(assuming it runs then),
  but
  it wouldn't have plates either way...  And it does go right past a
 police
  station...
 
  Anyone know if that's legal or not?  I was thinking it was...  But then
 I
  couldn't quite see how it could be if you can't pull a trailer without
  plates...
 
  Thanks,
  Levi
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-02 Thread Levi Smith
Well, I'm not sure of our level of civilization here.  I imagine I could
just tow it down there and back without issue.  BUT...  it's enough of a
hassle as it is that I'm not sure I want to chance it.  Just depends on the
cop.  I'm sure there are good ones out there, but personally I've yet to
really meet one that helped me(some just weren't as MUCH of a pain as
others) and generally they have only caused me pains...

Levi

On 8/2/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It's nice living in such a civilized state as NY I'm sure, as it was
 living in Massachusetts.  Here in Texas, things are so, um, uncivilized,
 that we don't generally have to worry about all that stuff.  Makes me
 want to move back to the more civilized parts of the country.

 --R

 Levi Smith wrote:
  Where/how can you get a paper tag for $10?  I thought NY was a pain
 cause
  there was no such thing as a temp tag?  Or is this something else?
 
  Levi
 
 
 

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Re: [MBZ] Who wants a 300TD cheap?

2007-08-01 Thread Levi Smith
Yeah, I can believe it closer to Ithaca.  I'm usually on the other side of
Corning.

Hmm, no fraid I'm going looking for a Prius.  I only got the benz to run on
veggie and I'm getting tired of the mess, effort, time and bears.  Without
the veggie it's simply a nicely engineered old boat.
I want something newer that's about as cheap as it can be on fuel without
being a hassle.(and the more I read about them the more my geek factor gets
turned up by the technology in them-That transmission is something to
behold!  Incredibly simple yet it takes a lot of brain power to comprehend!)

Levi (:



On 8/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Levi,
   There are actually several 123's right in this area.  Many more the
 closer you get to Ithaca.

 Buy mine and sell yours.LOL

 Mike

  Wow, and here I am getting near time to sell my 83' 300D greasecar
 that's
  located about 20 minutes from there...  Just seems odd since I hardly
  ever
  see any other 123's around...
 
  Levi
 
  On 8/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Hi John,
It is in Montour Falls, NY 14865.
 
  Mike
 
   [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have decided to sell my 83 300TD.  I never have time to mess
  with
   it
   to even see what is the matter with the transmission.  The engine
  runs
   great, starts right up no problem.
  
   Where's the car?
  
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Re: [MBZ] Who wants a 300TD cheap?

2007-08-01 Thread Levi Smith
Wow, and here I am getting near time to sell my 83' 300D greasecar that's
located about 20 minutes from there...  Just seems odd since I hardly ever
see any other 123's around...

Levi

On 8/1/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi John,
   It is in Montour Falls, NY 14865.

 Mike

  [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have decided to sell my 83 300TD.  I never have time to mess with
  it
  to even see what is the matter with the transmission.  The engine runs
  great, starts right up no problem.
 
  Where's the car?
 
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Re: [MBZ] Who wants a 300TD cheap?

2007-08-01 Thread Levi Smith
All items I've thought of, but the XFi and HF's and VX's(haven't looked much
for the HX's) are first off, all still 10-20 years old and beyond that, they
seem to be rarer than hens teeth.  I've had searches up for more than a year
now and in total I think I've seen maybe one HF that hadn't had an engine
swap and it was in an accident.  I think I've seen a single XFi and the guy
wanted like $7K for it.  I think maybe I've seen one or two VX's that hadn't
had engine swaps and they had other problems.

As for being easier to fix?  Potentially...  I had a CRX Si about 10 years
ago and IT was getting hard to find certain parts for.  I can't imagine it's
improved in 10 years.  And they did need work.  It remains to be seen how
reliable the Prius' are.  I've seen several people with more than 200K miles
on them(top was 280K miles), only really seeing sporadic issues with them
really and you can see that with the other cars.  You've got to watch the
spare tire area on the CRX's cause they collect water and rust out...  I've
already looked and I can find used replacement parts for the Prius' at
reasonable cost.  Generally in the same ballpark as the used parts would be
for the other cars...

As for mileage?  Yeah, they're all in the same ballpark.  It all comes down
to how you drive any of them.  From everything I can tell, the Prius is hard
to get below 40mpg, except in the middle of winter in NY you might get it
down to 35mpg.  If you drive WITH the car, you can see close to 60mpg with
good conditions.  The others can be close to that too, it just all depends.
My brother had an HF and he never saw even 40mpg with it...

Really the only other car vaguely in my sights at the moment are still the
TDi's, but the wife would prefer the Prius cause she doesn't want a stick
tranny and I'm not getting an auto TDi.  The Jetta Wagons are too expensive
so there's no real advantage there.  Basically, I'm getting hooked on the
ideas of generating power down my hill every day and driving distances
without the engine running and other techy stuff.  Not to mention that also
for the wife's sake, the gas pumps are usually pretty clean, whereas the
diesel pumps are usually not...

Levi

On 8/1/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Levi Smith wrote:
  I want something newer that's about as cheap as it can be on fuel
 without
  being a hassle.

 Then how about some proven technology, like a Geo Metro XFI or Honda CRX
 HF,
 either of which get more MPG and are easier to fix than a Toyota Priapism.
 There's also the Honda Civic VX and HX, which are about equal to the
 Toyota
 in mpg.

 Mitch.

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[MBZ] 6 cyl e300 diesel?

2007-07-26 Thread Levi Smith
OK, I dunno much about the Benz's other than the w123's I've been studying
for the last couple years but this came up the other day:

Apparently one of my parents neighbors has a 6cyl diesel that says e300 on
the back.  They're thinking late 80's early 90's.
I've heard that:
-It's really fast with a lot of power
-gets 36mpg
-trannies are only good for about 180K miles

Who can tell me what this beast might be and how accurate those facts are?
That mileage seems pretty high...  But then I don't know that much about the
newer stuff...

Levi
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Re: [MBZ] Just saw this in Popular Machanics re: tires

2007-07-17 Thread Levi Smith
In my experience, pressure washers work just fine on cars.  That said, the
half-brained person just needs to realize that the higher pressure your
washer, the finer the point and the closer you get the more likely you are
to clean more than you wanted.

Personally, I've used them many times over the years and the only time I
really did a good one was with a 10-15 year old CRX with plastic(and who
knows what kind of paint).  It already had some flaking off, and the
pressure washer took good chunks out.  Otherwise, no issues.  I did use mine
to remove some fedex decals from my van when I was done working for them.
THAT took a while.  Those suckers are on there good.  I ended up having to
use the pencil point at about 2 inches away for a lot of it and remove
little pieces at a time.

Levi

On 7/17/07, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Dan said

 I can't imagine anyone with half a brain in their head
 getting a pressure washer anywhere near a car.

 I agree if we're talking carsmy son and I used to routinely use the
 pressure washer on his '83 Jeep CJ-7 after a day of muddin...but then
 again it had a rattle can paint job and was subjected to much worse abuse
 than the pressure washer.

 Royce
 Temporarily Benzless
 '01 Ford Expedition 75K  Just a baby...



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hauling calves in a Benz [was Re: Is this Curt and his new 190? Or is it Marshall?]

2007-07-12 Thread Levi Smith
I can recommend NOT strapping (12) 20' lengths of 1 galvanized pipe to the
roof rack of a Subaru Impreza.
It might not seem like that much in talking, but it's a lot heavier than it
looks (well over the 125lb limit of the rack) and 20' is quite a bit longer
than the car.
That was quite interesting as I recall pipe sticking out way out over the
hood and a bit in front of the car and a good ways out back too.  Just
trying to drive smoothly down the highway for 20 or 30 miles while the pipe
just kinda see-sawed up and down over the bumps.  I still have a dent in the
front cross bar from that bit of stupidity.  (:

Levi
Not sure if the mulch in a 944 beats the old Christmas tree on the whale
tale of a 911...

On 7/12/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I hauled 9 bags of mulch home in a Porsche 944. My neighbor stopped me -
 one
 of his comments was You might be a redneck if...

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 8:59 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Hauling calves in a Benz [was Re: Is this Curt and
 his new 190? Or is it Marshall?]

 Very good story Craig!!  I can relate to ALMOST every part of it at one
 time or another.

 Mike

  On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 10:50:23 -0600 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  wrote:
 
 

 http://okiebenz.com/pipermail/mercedes_okiebenz.com/attachments/20070711/46b
 f684c/attachment.jpg
 
 
  You may laugh, but I actually did transport two calves that way. A
  humorous story in its own right, if anyone wants to hear it.
 
  Well, I guess people do want to hear it.
 
  OK, then.
 
  When Shirley and I lived in Colorado Springs in the early '80s, I was
  working for Hewlett-Packard. We lived, first, in town. For some reason,
  the neighborhood we lived in was a noisy one, with people thinking that
  everyone wanted to listen to the type of music they did and taking
  offense
  if asked to turn it down a little.
 
  We had enough of that and decided to move to the Black Forest area,
 north
  of town. While there, we raised a couple of calves, borrowing a friends
  horse trailer to tow behind our Willys Utility Wagon. We found, after a
  couple of years, that unremitting shade from pine trees got more than a
  little old and, here, too, people were inconsiderate of their neighbors,
  eventhough the neighbors were farther away from each other. Since they
  were out in the country, people just turned up their radios.
 
  Shirley had an uncle living on a farm in Nebraska, who we had visited a
  number of times. I liked the living and the environs and Shirley did,
  too.
  We finally found a place in spring '83, four miles south of the town of
  Calhan, Colorado, which is on Highway 24 between Colorado Springs and
  Limon. The place was 80 acres of unimproved land that had been planted
 in
  winter wheat. The nearest building was a microwave tower, about 3/4 mile
  away, and that was unoccupied. We could see a house to the
 east-southeast
  a little over a mile away, and the house of people who became good
  friends
  to the south-east a mile-and-a-half away. The land was on the mesa south
  of Calhan, several hundred feet higher than Calhan and at an elevation
 of
  almost 7000'. (Calhan is known as the Highest non-mountainous town in
  the
  US.)
 
  We bought and moved our Little Mobile Home on the Praire out onthe
  land,
  without well, without septic, and without power. Therein began 6 years
 of
  interesting adventures, about which we could, and probably should, write
  a
  book. We did get a septic tank put in and connected and did get a well
  put
  in -- that was 523' deep instead of the estimated 300' and blew our
  budget
  for quite a while.
 
  I'll cut this very short and skip to the incident in question. The
  situation is set up by knowing that Hewlett-Packard gave its employees
  Good Friday off every year and that the Calhan Livestock Auction held
  auctions on Fridays ...
 
  One particular Good Friday, I drove down to the Auction in our '72 220D
  to
  watch the proceedings. The weather was overcast, but decent. In watching
  all the animals being auctioned, I decided that it was time to have
  calves
  again (they do better in pairs). I figured I could make a shelter for
  them
  with a large tarp and our tractor that would do until I could go into
  Colorado Springs and get materials to make a better one. So, I bought
 two
  calves. At the end of the auction, I went outside to move the car so
 they
  could be loaded. I noticed that the weather had deteriorated
  considerably.
  Hmmm ...
 
  So, I backed up the car, opened the trunk, and told the fellow to load
  them in. They were just a couple of months old, perhaps 80 pounds. No
  problem for the W115 trunk (which, by the way, is noticably larger than
  that of W123s).
 
  I got the calves loaded and drove up the 

Re: [MBZ] W123 Beater Review

2007-07-12 Thread Levi Smith
So why don't you have it?  Wouldn't that mean you just steal it?

Levi

On 7/12/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Man I'd like to find a diesel Quantum some day.
 I know where theres a diesel Dasher (which I think is basically the same
 car) but its been sitting for at least 10 years and the son of the lady who
 owns it totalled my parents cars a few years ago so we're not really on
 speaking terms.

 -Curt

 Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 20:25:30 -0500
 From: Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 Beater Review
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Point taken.  Allow me to rephrase.

 With a three car garage and three drivers, I have:

 Wife's Buick Regal, her car and what she likes. Frigid AC (her basic
 requirement).
 Daughter's Chevy Cavalier, bought and paid for out of her checkbook --
 she
 loves it.
 My '77 W123 (my baby)
 My '82 VW Quantum diesel, a true beater but 50 mpg, my fun car.
 My '72 Honda motorcycle.
 One moped.
 Seven bicycles.

 Now, why would I want another vehicle on my insurance policy, even if
 it is
 a W123?


 -
 Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story.
 Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
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[MBZ] Voltage

2007-06-21 Thread Levi Smith
Just curious if anyone else has taken much look at their voltages.  I picked
up a cigarette lighter voltage meter at Wal-mart for like $15 that I'm
intending to use in some solar tinkering, but I decided to leave it in my
83' 300D while it's not doing anything else.  This has proved interesting.

Now, first off I don't know what's suppose to be in the car.  The dual-belt
alternator that was in the car when I got it died a few weeks ago, but the
car came with a working (wasn't sure till I got it on the car) used
alternator that I believe said 55amp Bosch on it, but it was a single pulley
until I figured out the right combination of spacers and nuts and the pulley
from the other one to get it to use that dual pulley.

I also checked it's readings compared to a volt meter on the battery and it
seems to average around .2V less than the battery is seeing.
But what I've seen is that basically with nothing on (except a fuel pump) I
think it might make it to 14v given enough time.  It stays near that level
with the radio on (though I can definitely see it kick on and I should note
that it has some crappy amp the PO left in there drawing power).  The gauge
reads to hundredths of a volt so I can see it when I turn the fuel pump or
basically anything on.
Turning headlights on is usually ok an keeps it above 13.2V usually.  (and
I'm basing most of these while running, not at idle)
The big sucker is the blower and worse yet with AC on.  Basically, it just
can't keep up.  If I have max AC on and I'm cruising the highway I can
probably hold around 12.8V.  If it actually gets things to a semi-cool state
and the fan slows a bit I can clear 13V.  Now, with headlights and AC on?
That's like 12V.  Now, come to idle with those on?  You're dropping into the
11V range for sure.

So, I guess my question is, is this normal for an old alternator on an old
car?  To my knowledge, your voltage is *supposed* to be at least 13.2V.  I'm
wondering if that actually occurs with a new/rebuilt alternator, or if these
old beasts just don't quite keep up no matter what...

Levi
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Re: [MBZ] Voltage

2007-06-21 Thread Levi Smith
Well, I'm sure 14.4 is more where it should be, but as far as I knew,
13.2was supposed to be the normal voltage of a charged battery, so
as long as
you had at least that much then the battery should be staying pretty well
charged.  above 14V sounds more like it should be and I believe as long as
you're not much over that you should be good.

Yeah, I forgot to mention those nice cold dark, foggy mornings.  It really
drops with AC/max fan, headlights, foglights, rear defroster, wiper, radio,
etc... on...  especially when you come to a stop and idle.  (:

I'm not likely to change it until it dies, but I'm interested to see that's
where it's residing...

Levi

On 6/21/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  So, I guess my question is, is this normal for an old alternator on an
  old
  car?  To my knowledge, your voltage is *supposed* to be at least 13.2V.

 You're about a volt low for these days.  I think 14.4 is about normal,
 the old-time voltage was 13.8.  Anything less is deficit spending!
 My 190D has a 70A alternator, but unless you're running AC, max
 blower, and all the lights just about anything you have should
 keep the voltage up.

 Try a new brush pack/regulator.  Or the used one from your
 old alternator, assuming that bad brushes wasn't what took
 it out in the first place.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Voltage

2007-06-21 Thread Levi Smith
Yeah, that's why I was saying that it was reading about .2v lower than the
battery was seeing(via my fairly decent regular voltmeter).  Though I'd more
likely attribute that to losses in the wiring between the battery and the
cigarette lighter...

Levi

On 6/21/07, Fmiser [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It seems than at Thu, 21 Jun 2007 09:34:17 -0700, Jim wrote:

   So, I guess my question is, is this normal for an old alternator on an
   old
   car?  To my knowledge, your voltage is *supposed* to be at least 13.2V
 .
 
  You're about a volt low for these days.  I think 14.4 is about normal,
  the old-time voltage was 13.8.  Anything less is deficit spending!

 I recall that the W123s are expecting the old chemistry
 batteries, and so 13.8 is the correct nominal voltage.

 But maybe my recall ability is malfunctioning...

 Oh, and do you really trust that meter? Do you happen to own (or
 know someone who owns) an good meter you can check it against?

 --Philip, sceptic

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Re: [MBZ] Voltage

2007-06-21 Thread Levi Smith
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure that's the right thing to do, but I'm not too
worried, I'm just going to keep an eye on things and try to make sure that
I'm not operating in that low voltage for too long.
It just doesn't seem *that* bad (with a little monitoring on my part) and I
REALLY don't feel like monkeying with it more and putting more money into
it.  (:

Levi

On 6/21/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Yeahbut, getting to 11v is too low, that alternator (or more likely the
 regulator/brush whatsis) HAS failed...
 When you're at 11v you're pulling from the battery and if you do that for
 any extended amount of time or if you leave it drawn you'll ruin the
 battery.

 Seems like you should replace the alternator (or the regulator first and
 then the alternator if need be) now or replace the alternator AND battery
 soon.

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 21 Jun 2007 12:42:15 -0400
 From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Voltage
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Well, I'm sure 14.4 is more where it should be, but as far as I knew,
 13.2was supposed to be the normal voltage of a charged battery, so
 as long as
 you had at least that much then the battery should be staying pretty
 well
 charged.  above 14V sounds more like it should be and I believe as long
 as
 you're not much over that you should be good.

 Yeah, I forgot to mention those nice cold dark, foggy mornings.  It
 really
 drops with AC/max fan, headlights, foglights, rear defroster, wiper,
 radio,
 etc... on...  especially when you come to a stop and idle.  (:

 I'm not likely to change it until it dies, but I'm interested to see
 that's
 where it's residing...

 Levi


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 8:00? 8:25? 8:40?  Find a flick in no time
 with theYahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut.
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Re: [MBZ] OT Satellite Internet connection?

2007-06-19 Thread Levi Smith
My boss has had DirecTV for a year or so.  AFAIK, pretty much all the
systems are 2-way now.  But, DirecTV(Hughesnet) sucks because of they're FAP
(Fair Access Policy).  He gets to download 200mb in 24 hours.  After that it
drops to dialup speed.  There are more expensive plans but they still seem
to suck pretty bad if you were, you know, like actually going to use your
connection to watch a movie or download anything or basically anything
besides flip through plain web pages...

He's getting Dish Network's service (WildBlue) in about a week.  Looks to be
a lot better.  Something like 7-17GB/month and if you exceed it you still
get 128k...  I'm thinking about trying to get my parents set up with that
too since they are currently paying like $50 for a second phone line and
dial-up accesss and due to their distance out, they can't connect at more
than about 21K...

Levi

On 6/18/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Anyone connected to one of these?  I think there are two choices, but I'm
 not sure about that.

 I'll not live long enough to see DSL or cable in the area I live and the
 ten
 miles of twisted copper coming my way is getting older as we speak.

 Harry
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Re: [MBZ] OT Satellite Internet connection?

2007-06-19 Thread Levi Smith
Umm, as I recall, Direct is like $600 for the equipment, then $200 for
installation and like $70/month for the basic plan.

Dish is like $200 for a lease for the equipment(you can get $10/month for 10
months rebate if you're a dish TV customer), then about $50 for the basic
plan.

Haven't heard anything about non-access periods, but I know he has
definitely not had the most reliable connection with his DirectTV.  Then
again, a lot of that was before he learned about the FAP so he'd download a
few windows updates on a couple computers and poof, the connection was all
but gone  I'm hoping Wildblue will be better...

Levi

On 6/19/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Levi

 Do you know the setup/hardware fees and monthly rates?

 About 3 years ago, I read on a forum about satellite connections that you
 need to keep a dialup service because of non access periods.  Has your
 boss
 mentioned that?

 That brings the question, does anyone have a link to a good forum on the
 subject?

 Harry


 On 6/19/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  My boss has had DirecTV for a year or so.  AFAIK, pretty much all the
  systems are 2-way now.  But, DirecTV(Hughesnet) sucks because of they're
  FAP
  (Fair Access Policy).  He gets to download 200mb in 24 hours.  After
 that
  it
  drops to dialup speed.  There are more expensive plans but they still
 seem
  to suck pretty bad if you were, you know, like actually going to use
 your
  connection to watch a movie or download anything or basically anything
  besides flip through plain web pages...
 
  He's getting Dish Network's service (WildBlue) in about a week.  Looks
 to
  be
  a lot better.  Something like 7-17GB/month and if you exceed it you
 still
  get 128k...  I'm thinking about trying to get my parents set up with
 that
  too since they are currently paying like $50 for a second phone line and
  dial-up accesss and due to their distance out, they can't connect at
 more
  than about 21K...
 
  Levi
 
  On 6/18/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   Anyone connected to one of these?  I think there are two choices, but
  I'm
   not sure about that.
  
   I'll not live long enough to see DSL or cable in the area I live and
 the
   ten
   miles of twisted copper coming my way is getting older as we speak.
  
   Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Increasing air flow in Diesel

2007-06-14 Thread Levi Smith

I have heard that you CAN increase power and mileage in modern diesels,
though I heard most of that with a computer update.  But free-er flowing
stuff is good for that too...
But, uh... 10-15 mpg??  Like near doubling it???  Now THAT sounds like an
awfully big crock...

Levi

On 6/14/07, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Friend with 06 Ford F250 Diesel has gotten hyped up about and has ordered
parts to, supposedly, increase air flow in his Diesel and, supposedly,
increase fuel mileage by 10 to 15 mpg.  Parts include Coolair filter and
larger exhaust system.  Somebody, please remind me about airflow (trying
to
improve it) in a Diesel, lack of throttling, etc.

BTW, I'm thinking about selling friend part of a bridge to Brooklyn.

Wilton
91 350SDL, 187kmi
87 300D, 104kmi


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Re: [MBZ] OT Polaris ATV

2007-06-07 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, I keep hearing about CV's, but all I'm seeing on mine are U-joints.
However, they are definitely at a steep angle.  I thought the same thing
when I looked at it-that I was surprised they worked very well.  Though they
are pretty massive looking on those rears at the diff end.  Like twice the
size of the ones on the pto shaft of my 5ft 3pt hitch flail mower...  Seems
to be that there's what like 16 inches of ground clearance?  And the output
shaft is about that much higher than the hub...  (:

Levi

On 6/6/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Is this one of the IFS/IRS machines? I hang out at the local
ATV/Snowmobile shop alot and see alot of the Polaris machines that have
independant rear suspensions in getting new rear CV joints.
The CVs are at a very sharp angle and as soon as somebody puts on oversize
or overagressive tires and/or really thromps on it they break.
Theres on thats in with shocking regularity...

They seem otherwise fine machines, comfortable and powerful. I've got a
couple Polaris snowmobiles and love 'em, but there is a limitation in the
IRS system.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 6 Jun 2007 14:22:16 -0400
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] OT Polaris ATV
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hey, this doesn't really have anything to do with Mercedes (yet), but
sometimes you guys surprise me and know all sorts of s--stuff.
I just picked up a 97' Polaris Sportsman 500 this weekend and am
looking for
more info, but not finding a whole lot.  Anyone have any leads for good
resources?  You know, like the Polaris equivalent to okiebenz?

Oh, I bet this is actually Mercedes related, cause this will probably
plow
the snow out of the driveway for the 83' 300D, and probably end up
pulling
it at some point...  (:

Levi


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Re: [MBZ] Disabling EGR (was: Grey market issues)

2007-06-06 Thread Levi Smith

What are the symptoms of one that is stuck open?

Levi

On 6/6/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


yes.  It needs to be done before the valve is stuck open.

At 11:00 AM 6/6/2007, you wrote:
On 6/5/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Why bother?  A bb in the vacuum line is WAY cheaper and faster.
 

But doesn't work if the valve is stuck open.  BTDT.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
'86 Lincoln Mark VII LSC

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Loren Faeth


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[MBZ] OT Polaris ATV

2007-06-06 Thread Levi Smith

Hey, this doesn't really have anything to do with Mercedes (yet), but
sometimes you guys surprise me and know all sorts of s--stuff.
I just picked up a 97' Polaris Sportsman 500 this weekend and am looking for
more info, but not finding a whole lot.  Anyone have any leads for good
resources?  You know, like the Polaris equivalent to okiebenz?

Oh, I bet this is actually Mercedes related, cause this will probably plow
the snow out of the driveway for the 83' 300D, and probably end up pulling
it at some point...  (:

Levi


Re: [MBZ] New vid site

2007-05-31 Thread Levi Smith

Certainly sounds like you have a good daughter.  (:

Levi

On 5/31/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


My daughter got into this new vid site, showed me a Fifth Gear vid
yesterday of a Ferrari 430 track test.  Good quality.  Y'all might be
interested.  Looks like you have to get some sort of login, she says the
vids have a short commercial in them somewhere but not too intrusive.
That one we watched did not.

http://www.joost.com/whatson/

--R


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Re: [MBZ] New vid site

2007-05-31 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, once I somehow accidentally become a trillionaire, I think I might
pick up one of those Veyron's...  (:

On 5/31/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Well, she lusts after that Ferrari, after the Bentley Continental GT and
the Bugatti Veyron.

--R

Levi Smith wrote:
 Certainly sounds like you have a good daughter.  (:

 Levi

 On 5/31/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 My daughter got into this new vid site, showed me a Fifth Gear vid
 yesterday of a Ferrari 430 track test.  Good quality.  Y'all might be
 interested.  Looks like you have to get some sort of login, she says
the
 vids have a short commercial in them somewhere but not too intrusive.
 That one we watched did not.

 http://www.joost.com/whatson/

 --R




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Re: [MBZ] New vid site

2007-05-31 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, invitations all around!  (:
I've heard of it but not yet played with it.  Not sure if will be friendly
with my Linux box either...

Levi

On 5/31/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I don't know, you might not be hip enough to be part of the joost
generation.

--R

BillR wrote:
 Looks interesting, but the site says I will need an invitation from a
 current user.  Can you do that?
 BillR





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Re: [MBZ] Leaking R134 valve

2007-05-30 Thread Levi Smith

Hmm...  Dunno, I don't know what R12 connectors are like.  There's a dust
cap that screws on to a pop-on coupling that works with any of the R134
refill kits.  It *looks* like that's part of the pipe...  But for all I
know, perhaps it's somehow threaded onto a smaller piece on the pipe?

This is sounding like I'm going to be better off to take it to someone who
knows what they're doing until I've seen it done once...

Levi

On 5/29/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



What kind of R134 connectors do you have?
The ones with their own schrader valves, or the ones that fit over
the R12 service connector and have a little pushrod to open the
original schrader valve? If the latter, can you fix the leak by
removing the adapter (or was it coated in permanent threadlocker?).

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Re: [MBZ] Leaking R134 valve

2007-05-30 Thread Levi Smith

So, then there are actually TWO shrader valves, one on top of the other?  Or
is the R12 one removed from the inside, then this R134 with shrader fitted
to the outside?  Or is the R12 Shrader still there and this is just an outer
fitting?

Levi

On 5/30/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Hmm...  Dunno, I don't know what R12 connectors are like.

They look an awful lot like a big-brother version of your
basic tire valve stem.  (The metal part.)

 It *looks* like that's part of the pipe...  But for all I know,
 perhaps it's somehow threaded onto a smaller piece on the pipe?

Exactly.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Leaking R134 valve

2007-05-29 Thread Levi Smith

Hmm, ok anyone happen to know if there's any particular size to the low side
of that R134 in my 83' 300D?  I started calling a couple auto parts places
and they are telling me that there are lots of different sizes...
I was hoping that by some miracle I might be able to get the valve swapped
without losing the ENTIRE charge of R134...  Or am I just dreaming?  Of
course this would necessitate having a new one ready to go before pulling
the old one...

Thanks!
Levi

On 5/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 since the AC was somewhat useful today.  So, my questions are, is that
 thing
 a shrader valve?  Either way can it be easily be replaced or otherwise
 likely fixed?

It's a Schrader valve, but not exactly the same as a tire valve core.
They often start to come unscrewed, I've tightened a few which has
stopped the loss of refrigerant.  The usual tire stem tool will do
the job, or perhaps even a pair of hemostats.  If the valve itself
is shot it's easily replaced, but not easy to do without losing all
the charge!  (There are specialized tools for doing this job.)

Possibly the nasty oil/R134a combination has eaten the valve's rubber
seal.  Nobody ever talks about replacing the valves with R134a-rated
ones.  O-rings, sure.  Hoses, yes indeed.  Valves?  Dead silence.

 Also, should I be seeing a lot of oil, or is that a sign that there's
 too
 much in there?

Oil is mixed with the refrigerant, so any leak should bring some
oil with it.  If you lose enough you should replace it.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] Leaking R134 valve

2007-05-28 Thread Levi Smith

OK, so I went to add some R134 to my 83' 300d as I've done in the past.
Well, when I went to disconnect, the valve (low side) seems to be stuck
open.  I'm getting a lot of oil and a bit of air coming out.  I tried
reconnecting/disconnecting it but it seems to be stuck open.  I ended up
just putting the cap on the valve and apparently it's holding to a degree
since the AC was somewhat useful today.  So, my questions are, is that thing
a shrader valve?  Either way can it be easily be replaced or otherwise
likely fixed?

Also, should I be seeing a lot of oil, or is that a sign that there's too
much in there?

Thanks!
Levi


Re: [MBZ] Leaking R134 valve

2007-05-28 Thread Levi Smith

I thought you had to have different valves to be R134 compliant?  I.e. R12
and R134 have different standard fittings and if you don't change the
valve then you won't be able to use the R134 charge fittings?

Levi

On 5/28/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 since the AC was somewhat useful today.  So, my questions are, is that
 thing
 a shrader valve?  Either way can it be easily be replaced or otherwise
 likely fixed?

It's a Schrader valve, but not exactly the same as a tire valve core.
They often start to come unscrewed, I've tightened a few which has
stopped the loss of refrigerant.  The usual tire stem tool will do
the job, or perhaps even a pair of hemostats.  If the valve itself
is shot it's easily replaced, but not easy to do without losing all
the charge!  (There are specialized tools for doing this job.)

Possibly the nasty oil/R134a combination has eaten the valve's rubber
seal.  Nobody ever talks about replacing the valves with R134a-rated
ones.  O-rings, sure.  Hoses, yes indeed.  Valves?  Dead silence.

 Also, should I be seeing a lot of oil, or is that a sign that there's
 too
 much in there?

Oil is mixed with the refrigerant, so any leak should bring some
oil with it.  If you lose enough you should replace it.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating

2007-05-25 Thread Levi Smith

Hmm...  What temperature do you need it at?  I've got an oven sitting in my
barn that works other than the normal range of the thermostat.  i.e. it'll
still hold like 700F for the clean cycle...  Probably not much use for most
things.  I think I'm gonna have to chuck it...

Levi

On 5/25/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Yeah, but Mama would be mighty peeved when her cookies came out tasting
and smelling like your wheels.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 9:38 AM
Subject: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating


 --bake at 400 degrees.  'Sounds like a project for Mama's oven.

 Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating

2007-05-25 Thread Levi Smith

Then the next thing would probably be to defeat the oven lock.  Otherwise
I'm guessing that pizza would be good and crispy since you'd have to put it
in before it reached that temp and couldn't check it and you'd have to wait
until the oven cooled down before it would let you open the door..  (:

Levi

On 5/25/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Hmm...  What temperature do you need it at?  I've got an oven
 sitting in my barn that works other than the normal range of the
 thermostat.  i.e. it'll still hold like 700F for the clean cycle...
 Probably not much use for most things.  I think I'm gonna have to
 chuck it...

Would make a good pizza oven.  You need a *really* hot oven for a good
pizza, it's not unheard of for people to override the cleaning cycle
lockout on their home ovens to get the temperature into that range.
Commercial pizza deck ovens run at about 600 or more, the
convection/conveyor style (which IMO produce an inferior pizza) are a
little cooler.

My gas oven at home has a digital thermostat, it will go to 550 which
is just barely adequate for a good homemade pizza if you use a pizza
stone.  I've not tried the cleaning cycle trick, myself.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating

2007-05-25 Thread Levi Smith

Ahh, sounds like the powdercoating is flammable, or otherwise gets that way
in an enclosed heated area...

Yeah, probably just a couple bucks though.  Some guy stopped by last weekend
looking for scrap.  I may make him up a pile of stuff, just doesn't quite
seem worth the hassle to me if someone is willing to take it for free.

Levi

On 5/25/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hi Levi,
  I am not certain of the exact temp needed but I do know it must be an
electric oven or it will explode.Is your oven electric?  If
nothing
else tin price is up and that old oven is actually worth a couple bucks at
the scrapyard.

I bet a toaster oven would work for really small parts and practicing.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating


 Hmm...  What temperature do you need it at?  I've got an oven sitting in
 my
 barn that works other than the normal range of the thermostat.  i.e.
 it'll
 still hold like 700F for the clean cycle...  Probably not much use for
 most
 things.  I think I'm gonna have to chuck it...

 Levi

 On 5/25/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yeah, but Mama would be mighty peeved when her cookies came out
tasting
 and smelling like your wheels.

 Mike
 - Original Message -
 From: wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 9:38 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating


  --bake at 400 degrees.  'Sounds like a project for Mama's
oven.
 
  Wilton
 
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Re: [MBZ] DIY Powdercoating

2007-05-25 Thread Levi Smith

AAAhhh, I kind of understood what you meant, but I was thinking you meant to
defeat it so that you could take the oven to temps above what the cleaning
cycle was meant for...  This makes more sense...  (:

Levi

On 5/25/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Then the next thing would probably be to defeat the oven lock.
 Otherwise I'm guessing that pizza would be good and crispy since
 you'd have to put it in before it reached that temp and couldn't
 check it and you'd have to wait until the oven cooled down before it
 would let you open the door..  (:

That's what I meant by override the cleaning cycle lockout.
Defeat or Disable would have been a better word.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic Hybrids

2007-05-22 Thread Levi Smith

I think the VX was around 40-50mpg...  It seemed like fuel efficient V-tec
step up from the CRX HF which was around 40mpg...

Levi

On 5/20/07, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


But wasn't the insight built shortly after the Civic VX (?) that got 70
mpg
without the hybrid nonsense?

Can't remember which model designation it was but they had a normal 90's
Honda that got great mileage.

Never could figure out why the US manufacturers insisted on keeping
gutless
5.7 L engines with pollution controls when a Euro 2.0 L was just as quick
with fewer pollutants...hmmm

Jeff Zedic
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Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon hitches, was: Re: Gotta brag -- Check out my $3200 '87 300TDT

2007-05-19 Thread Levi Smith

Technically speaking, you could get some bulb sockets and make up your own
harness that just plugged into the existing lights and didn't interfere with
the stock harness...

Levi

On 5/18/07, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith wrote:
 Sorry, you nixed that one with the not cutting the wiring harness in
your
 last message.  I was talking about a universal one that you just put on
with
 a couple vampire taps...

Is there actually a socket in the wiring harness that is designated for
hooking up the trailer wiring?  I imagine if there is Rusty can at least
get the connector and the wiring could be done DIY to a generic hookup.

John

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Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon hitches, was: Re: Gotta brag -- Check out my $3200 '87 300TDT

2007-05-18 Thread Levi Smith

Sorry, you nixed that one with the not cutting the wiring harness in your
last message.  I was talking about a universal one that you just put on with
a couple vampire taps...

Levi

On 5/18/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I hadn't checked Wally World yet..They didn't have one for my Dodge
truck so I was doubtfull about the TD.

Mike
- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 wagon hitches,was: Re: Gotta brag -- Check out my
$3200 '87 300TDT


 Ahh, you just pick one up for like $15 at Wal-mart and wire it in.  It's
 worked fine on my 97' Subaru and  83' 300D...

 Levi

 On 5/17/07, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd love to have a trailer wiring harness for my 123 TD if they
 exist..I
 need to fix the bumpers anyway so i will be building my own reciever
 hitch
 for it.

 Mike
 - Original Message -
 From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2007 9:11 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] 124 wagon hitches,was: Re: Gotta brag -- Check out my
 $3200
 '87 300TDT


  If you want, I can have a look around here for harnessesthere's
  millions
  of 124 T's floating around here!   -Jeff Zedic
 
  Thx, Jeff, but I already got mine.  John is mulling that prospect,
but
  it's my possibly mistaken understanding that the MB factory hitches
  weren't exported to GB.  IIRC, there's a thriving market for aftermkt
  hitches on Brit ebay.  Shipping's probably a major hitch to bringing
  any of those things over as they are pretty heavy, plus unless you've
  got a contact on the ground near where you're buying from you've got
  to convince a potential seller to jump thru the extra hoops involved
  in pond hopping.
 
  -joe
 
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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic Hybrids

2007-05-18 Thread Levi Smith

I don't know much about the Escape in particular and I tend to steer clear
of most American vehicles.  They're usually good enough but from my
experience they're not as reliable as the Japanese stuff.
Still, overall from what I've seen, in terms of cost, if you're planning on
keeping the vehicle for 100K miles or more there's a good chance you'll make
up the difference in fuel cost compared to the extra you paid for the Hybrid
part.  If you're only going to keep it for a few years and maybe 60K miles
it's kinda doubtful that you'll recover that fuel cost compared to buying
the cheaper model.  You just don't generally get THAT much better mileage
compared to the extra cost.  Make sure you're aware that you will NOT get
the mileage ratings on the window for city and only the highway rating if
you accelerate slowly and keep it to 45mph...  They are changing the ratings
now to make a bit more sense (especially in regards to hybrids that might
complete half the test without ever starting the engine, but not getting to
the point of having to recharge)and the Prius is about to lose around 12mpg
in the city rating.

As for batteries, that's going to FAST becoming more of an issue in my
mind.  I've been watching the Honda list lately as the Insights were the
first around 2000.  And as expected, the batteries last around 6 years it
seems.  Honda seems to be doing pretty good and for the most part replacing
them for free even on a 7 year old car with 178K miles on it.  But I'd say
you could expect to pay somewhere in the $500-3K range if and when your
batteries die and you decide to replace them.

I haven't really heard any reliability problems with them other than the
same thing with pretty much ANY battery in that it's hard to make them last
more than somewhere around 6 years...

I *LOVE* the idea, but there are a lot of caveats with it.  I'd love to pick
up one of the original Insights that ACTUALLY got 70mpg on the highway.
That could be done for like $6K too...  It would still get near that mileage
if the battery pack was toast too.  Unfortunately they've more or less got
it tied into the system so that if the battery pack gets completely useless
there's no way to charge the normal 12V battery that would run the
electrical system...

Levi

On 5/18/07, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


My wife told me she really likes the Ford Escape Hybrid and may want to
sell/trade her Explorer to get one.  I am a little leary of hybrid
technology while it is still so new.   Does anyone know anything about
the reliability?  Or the cost to replace the batteries when they will
inevitably need to be replaced.   I read an article that talked about
the fact that with the cost of the batteries all the fuel savings is
gone.   Any information would be great.



Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 137K (For Sale)
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=221355344



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Hey LT Don: motorcycle oil

2007-04-24 Thread Levi Smith

I use Mobil 1 MXv4T (I think that's it) in my 84' Honda VF500F Interceptor
(500cc V-4)  Works good.  Seems like it's usually like $9 from Autozone, or
I think I last time they were out and I ordered it from someplace online...

Levi

On 4/24/07, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I've had good luck with Mobil 1 15-W-50  wet clutch. No slipping, etc.
Went
with the higher viscosity because it is an air-cooled engine running in
the
higher rpm range.

On 4/24/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yeah another oil thread...
 IIRC LT Don uses Mobil 1 in his motorcycle.




--
LT Don
The Crazy Coastie
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

2007-04-20 Thread Levi Smith

So what's the probable plan then?  Just watch it and when it seems like the
metal is too fatigued(is this when the jack-rod comes up through the
floor?), dig the whole thing out and rebuild?

Levi

On 4/19/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 So...  Just how well put in are those jacking points in an 83' 300D?

Fairly well.  But once the rust attacks like you've seen it's
probably got a very good start on the thicker metal that's
behind the facade.  Just boxing it in may not be a good idea.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

2007-04-20 Thread Levi Smith

I guess what's most interesting to me is that it seems to only be this one
point.  The others seem fine.  I do have rust around the rear fenders, and
some minor bits elsewhere but this is the most major structural looking I've
seen yet.

As long as the engine holds out Perhaps I'll just have to add a tube frame
to it and end up with a MBZ go-kart...

Levi

On 4/20/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Serious rust at the jack points is usually the beginning of the end.
It's a sign that there is serious cancer elsewhere. Each jack point are
built strong enough to lift 1/2 the car and if you can no longer lift the
car then what lesser parts have been weakened?

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 7:43 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

So what's the probable plan then?  Just watch it and when it seems like
the
metal is too fatigued(is this when the jack-rod comes up through the
floor?), dig the whole thing out and rebuild?

Levi

On 4/19/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  So...  Just how well put in are those jacking points in an 83' 300D?

 Fairly well.  But once the rust attacks like you've seen it's
 probably got a very good start on the thicker metal that's
 behind the facade.  Just boxing it in may not be a good idea.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

2007-04-20 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, I'd be more likely to use that normally anyway, mine just died that
day and I wanted to get the wheels changed.  Thing is, I'd be likely to use
the floor jack under that same spot...  Or is there some other nice spot for
a floor jack to just get one wheel off the ground(front right specifically)?

Levi
Wonder what the shipping would be for 2 tons from AZ to NY?  (:

On 4/20/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


You can always use a roll around jack. Just remember, as metal goes away
so
does strength. I would not want to be involved in a serious accident in a
car with serious corrosion problems, even a Mercedes. There are too many
rust free bodies out there - I bet that even Kaleb could provide you one
at
reasonable cost.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 8:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

I guess what's most interesting to me is that it seems to only be this one
point.  The others seem fine.  I do have rust around the rear fenders, and
some minor bits elsewhere but this is the most major structural looking
I've
seen yet.

As long as the engine holds out Perhaps I'll just have to add a tube frame
to it and end up with a MBZ go-kart...

Levi

On 4/20/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Serious rust at the jack points is usually the beginning of the end.
 It's a sign that there is serious cancer elsewhere. Each jack point are
 built strong enough to lift 1/2 the car and if you can no longer lift
the
 car then what lesser parts have been weakened?

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Levi Smith
 Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 7:43 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

 So what's the probable plan then?  Just watch it and when it seems like
 the
 metal is too fatigued(is this when the jack-rod comes up through the
 floor?), dig the whole thing out and rebuild?

 Levi

 On 4/19/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   So...  Just how well put in are those jacking points in an 83' 300D?
 
  Fairly well.  But once the rust attacks like you've seen it's
  probably got a very good start on the thicker metal that's
  behind the facade.  Just boxing it in may not be a good idea.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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[MBZ] Rust at jacking point 83' 300D

2007-04-19 Thread Levi Smith

So...  Just how well put in are those jacking points in an 83' 300D?

Basically my right front one seems to have lost a couple inches of metal on
the vertical surface on either side of the hole in the last year or so.

I did jack it up with both the Mercedes Jack and a floor jack directly
underneath it in the last couple weeks and I haven't noticed any
catastrophic failures...  I *almost* thought I might have seen some metal
bending, but it was hard to tell because I was being extra stupid and using
the plain old 3inch bottom of the Mercedes jack on a nice soft dirt(some
gravel) driveway.  So I was typically sinking a couple inches into the
driveway for the time it took to change each wheel.

So the question is: Are the jacking points nice and solidly put together in
there otherwise, or do I need to get in there and weld in a couple pieces of
steel on either side of the jack-hole?

Thanks!
Levi


Re: [MBZ] Manual battery boost

2007-04-07 Thread Levi Smith

Uhhh...  If you were going to go to that much trouble, why not just pop
start it entirely?

I suppose technically if you timed everything perfectly it could potentially
be a little less strain on the starter, but I'd never do it.  I'm just going
to start the car normally, OR I'm going to pop start it.  And I'm only going
to pop start it if for some reason I don't think it's going to start
normally...  Same as whether that's my car or my bike...

Levi

On 4/7/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Was wondering if anyone has ever tried this: In cold weather, attempting
to
start a manual tranny diesel: Before doing anything else: pushing the
vehicle a few feet and then popping the clutch out in first gear (or
reverse
might be geared lower?), thus hopefully achieving some engine rotation
(and
thereby relieving the starter of the task of lurching the near-frozen
engine
into motion)? Then proceeding with the appropriate starting procedure?

I used to do this with my motorcycle, thinking I was helping the battery
not
have work so hard to get the engine turning on cold mornings.

Brian
83 240D that has been starting well in 15 degree F lately
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Re: [MBZ] Help with CD's and DVD's

2007-03-28 Thread Levi Smith

If you're running windows, just use Media Player to rip the MP3's and DVD
shrink to rip the DVD's.  You might want Daemon tools to view the isos...

Levi

On 3/28/07, Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Download iTunes and rip 'em all to your hard drive.  Then get an iPod to
 listen to 'em with

Or if you use Windows, download EAC with LAME, rip to the hd and load your
MP3 player up
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT


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Re: [MBZ] Router and Firewall

2007-03-18 Thread Levi Smith

Not with Linux...

On 3/18/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


You've got to have anti-virus!

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: LarryT [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, March 17, 2007 6:20 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: Router and Firewall

Thanks Tom!!
   I'll drop my Firewall - what about AV?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Any good Subaru forum out there?

2007-03-12 Thread Levi Smith

I'd definitely do the tranny flush/filter change.  That's fixed any of 3
slight issues I've had with both of our 97' Sube tranny's.  Though none of
those were really slipping.  Twice mine would just drop out of a gear for a
second if I held it to the floor, but letting up on the gas dropped it back
in.  And my wife's was keeping the center clutch engaged a bit too much so
it was binding a bit turning in parking lots.  All of these issues were with
around 100K miles on that set of tranny fluid/filter though and the
flush/filter change fixed them.  The only Slipping I've dealt with was when
I tried putting in synthetic fluid in mine with 110K miles on it.
Apparently mine's worn enough that it doesn't like synthetic.

The only Sube groups I'm on are the Yahoo Outback Sport lists.   Not bad
groups by any means, but there seems to only be a handful of people who have
a whole lot of knowledge.

Levi

On 3/10/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I know some people here (Levi?) have experience with Subarus.  Is there
any
good mailing list, web forum, etc. out there?  The only ones I can find
with
a quick Google search seem devoted to souping up WRX models.  My
girlfriend's '98 Legacy has a slipping transmission and beyond changing
the
fluid/filter and checking the computer for trouble codes I'm at a loss
what
to do.  (The only automatic I've tinkered with is the one on my 300D, and
the Subaru of course has nothing like the mechanical/vacuum controls on
the
Benz---everything is controlled electrically, it looks like.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Subaru Legacy transmissions [was: Any good Subaru forum out there?]

2007-03-12 Thread Levi Smith

I took mine to the Jiffy Lube to have them flushed.  Back then they did
filters with the flush as part of the service.  Apparently now they charge
like an extra $40 to change the filter too.
I kinda think the tranny cooler is part of the radiator, like just a bottom
or side chamber.

MBZ content:  My 83' 300D CLUNKS into pretty much every gear.  I assume it's
a lack of vacuum.  It's done it since i've had it, but I hear that is the
way they last the longest.  I've gotten used to it, but it throws people off
who haven't ridden with me.  (:

Levi

On 3/12/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


On 3/12/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I'd definitely do the tranny flush/filter change.  That's fixed any of 3
 slight issues I've had with both of our 97' Sube tranny's.  Though none
of
 those were really slipping.  Twice mine would just drop out of a gear
for
 a
 second if I held it to the floor, but letting up on the gas dropped it
 back
 in.


Thanks Levi.  Sometimes the '98 Legacy in question does that drop out of
gear thing, sometimes more of a slip-and-flare like a worn M-B auto, and
sometimes when cold it shifts hard and late---sort of step on the gas,
wait, then WHAM!

Did you do the flush and filter change yourself?  I've changed what I
could on the Legacy twice with the drain plug on the pan, but I'm well
aware
that that method doesn't get anywhere near all the fluid.  I'd like to
change it all by the method of disconnecting the input line to the
transmission cooler and running the engine while pouring fresh fluid in
the
top, but I have two problems: can't find the cooler (is it inside one of
the
front fenders?) and can't get the tranny pan off to change the filter at
the
same time (the factory used something like RTV instead of a real gasket
and
it might as well be welded shut for all the luck I've had breaking the
seal).

(Mercedes content:  Valvoline High Mileage ATF [in a bright red bottle]
seemed to help the Subaru shift better for a little while, then the
symptoms
returned.  Anyone tried this stuff in an older M-B transmission, or should
I
just stick to Mobil 1?  Does the Lucas magic transmission additive worth
trying?  [Some people swear by it.]  My 300D goes CLUNK! into reverse
and
occasionally on the 1-2 shift at light throttle, but otherwise shifts
perfectly---crisp but not harsh.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] Resister to lower voltage to use LEDS as small lights

2007-03-08 Thread Levi Smith

Agreed.  They have 12v automotive applications for LED's all over.  I've
bought some LED trailer lights.  Guess what?  They work.  Much better than
regular ones too.  I'd be willing to bet they'll last a lot longer than
regular bulbs...

Come to think of it, I seem to recall an old electronics kit I had with
variable voltages and light.  When I was tired of it and just monkeying
around I cranked the voltage all the way up and tried out various things.
The regular bulbs blew pretty quick.  The LED was the only thing that
didn't.  (the motor spun really fast for a minute, but that's not related to
lights)  (:

Levi

On 3/8/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I bought a couple of 12V LEDs a the electronic toystore for like $0.99
each.  Just go buy a couple, stick them on car power somewhere and see
if they work out.  If they do, then use them in your application.  If
they don't then try something else.  What we seem to have here is
paralysis by analysis.

--R (BSLED, Smoke Test School of Engineering)



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Re: [MBZ] M1 Turbo Diesel Truck

2007-02-08 Thread Levi Smith

I could have sworn what I saw was Mobil 1, 10w-40
Not just Mobil 10w-40...

Yeah, here it is...
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_High_Mileage_10W-40.aspx

Introducing New Mobil 1 High Mileage
New Mobil 1 High Mileage, available in a 10W-30 and a 10W-40, is designed
especially for engines where conventional oil has been used. Mobil 1 High
Mileage reduces the sludge and deposits that conventional oils can leave
behind.


Levi

On 2/7/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith wrote:
 Also, what about the M1 10w-40 for high mileage engines would this be
fine
 for old Benz' and perhaps offer a slight increase in cranking speed on
these
 0F days?

Mobil 10W-40 High Mileage is NOT a group IV synthetic oil (like the
Mobil 1 oils) and while it is API CF rated it is NOT approved for
Mercedes engines (may not have ever been tested)!


http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Clean_High_Mileage.asp

I'd use Delvac 1300 or Chevron Delo 400 if you don't want to use a real
synthetic.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] M1 15k Oil

2007-02-08 Thread Levi Smith

I'd tend to agree with this in terms of a good gas engine.  However, from
what I hear 10K seems to be the safer limit for old diesels that seem to
contaminate the oil...

Levi

On 2/8/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


they say 15k, i'm betting it works to 18-20k

my only real concern is that with extended oil change intervals, can the
oil
filters keep up?  I've been running M1 5w-40 truck/suv oil, and my real
worry is that the filter will quit before the oil breaks down.

On 2/8/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 So is that M1 15k (Guaranteed!) mile stuff really good for 15k miles?  I
 put some in my Suburban, it is at maybe 10k miles now and I am getting a
 bit noodgy about it.  I guess I should trust it, but all this oil talk
 has got me paranoid.

 --R

 Marshall Booth wrote:
  Levi Smith wrote:
 
  Also, what about the M1 10w-40 for high mileage engines would this
be
 fine
  for old Benz' and perhaps offer a slight increase in cranking speed
on
 these
  0F days?
 
 
  Mobil 10W-40 High Mileage is NOT a group IV synthetic oil (like the
  Mobil 1 oils) and while it is API CF rated it is NOT approved for
  Mercedes engines (may not have ever been tested)!
 
 

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil_Clean_High_Mileage.asp
 
  I'd use Delvac 1300 or Chevron Delo 400 if you don't want to use a
real
  synthetic.
 
  Marshall
 
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--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] Wolwo safety

2007-02-07 Thread Levi Smith

It all depends.  I certainly didn't think the alternator in my 83' 300D was
easy to remove.  It wasn't THAT bad, but it required a few extra pieces be
removed.  My Subaru was just like two bolts from the top...

The thermostat was easier on the sube since I didn't have to squash my hand
in between fan blades or what not...

The cv shaft...  mmm, could go either way...  The Benz is a pain to remove
the diff cover and pull the C-clip, but the Sube had a stupid roll pin.  I
much preferred my Hondas and Isuzus which simply had circlips that you just
popped out with a little prying.

Brakes are easier on the Sube.  Close call, but you don't have to monkey
with wheel bearings on the front rotors.

Spark plugs are in better locations than glow plugs on the ones I've had...


I'd rate the Benz pretty easy as far as mechanical work goes, but I would
have to give the nod to the Subaru.  The Sube has 220K miles and has not had
many issues, but then it is about 14 years younger than the Benz...

Levi



On 2/6/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Peter Frederick wrote:
 Japanese cars DO require less work than American ones -- I've had way
too many friends who have driven them hundreds of thousands of miles with
nothing but tires, oil changes, and brakes -- and sometimes not even brakes.


They can be a pain to work on when they *do* break, though.  If you ever
have to change the alternator in a Honda Civic you'll see what I mean.
Hint: step 1 is remove driver's side drive axle.

I think they way Honda stamps the required socket size on the head of
each bolt is a rather nice touch, though.  If it says 10, you reach
for the 10mm socket.  No guessing required.

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Re: [MBZ] M1 Turbo Diesel Truck

2007-02-07 Thread Levi Smith

Also, what about the M1 10w-40 for high mileage engines would this be fine
for old Benz' and perhaps offer a slight increase in cranking speed on these
0F days?

Levi

On 2/7/07, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Saw it as autozone today in the quart bottles, 6.19 each.  The 15W50 or
whatever it is extented was like 6.93 I think.  The 5qt jugs of the
extended at walmart are cheaper.  Should be just as good ad the TDT
shouldnt it?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] if I die, it was nice knowing you all....read link re: KC chemical plant explosion

2007-02-07 Thread Levi Smith

Nice knowing you too Chris.  Who knows, maybe you'll gain superpowers...

Levi
Hopefully it's not REALLY that bad and I won't feel bad making those
comments...

On 2/7/07, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


http://www.kansascity.com/mld/kansascity/news/local/16645161.htm

  huge fire, lots of smoke over the city, sirens, helicopters, not good.

  Chris





Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2006 GSD, Anke (Yanke von der burg Austerlitz)
-2006 GSD, Sammy (Zane von der burg Austerlitz)
www.austerlitzshepherds.com
-1985 300SD, 219K miles, Wulf
-1982 300Dt, 117K miles, little blue klatter box

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[MBZ] Cold weather

2007-02-06 Thread Levi Smith

Just thought I'd share some of my cold weather this morning here near
Corning, NY.

It was about 1F outside.  Block heater was plugged in for a couple hours
before starting.  It wasn't that bad, but it did take a couple tries.  (Not
NEARLY as bad as this weekend when it was in the single digits during the
day, no block heater and 2 glow plugs were out.  That took a LOT of
cranking.)  (:
Well, on my mainly 45 minute highway commute at about 70mph, by the end of
the trip my veggie tank was at about 65F and the cabin temp was up to about
45F.

Levi


Re: [MBZ] Cold weather

2007-02-06 Thread Levi Smith

Temp gauge was resting on the bottom for the first maybe 5+ minutes(that
time is pretty much downhill so idling motor but cruising at around 30mph
with the occasional slight press of the pedal)  Then started rising and
within 15 minutes which is about the time I hit the highway it was up to
around 80-90C and stayed there for the rest of the trip.

I'm assuming that it didn't get any warmer any quicker due to:
A) the cold (single digits, 1F when I left)
b)the wind sucking out even more of the generated heat (-10 - -20F wind
chills)
c) the veggie tank sucking out a decent portion of heat
d)the more or less exposed heater lines that run along the bottom of the car
from the engine compartment to below the rear seat leaking out heat
e) the lack of a working aux coolant pump
I'm sure i could replace the aux coolant pump and get a bit more heat in the
cabin, but it works just fine for my needs and I imagine it would suck more
heat from the veggie tank.

Levi

On 2/6/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



What'd the temp gauge for the engine read? My 190D is toasty warm within
half an hour no matter how cold it is out. My 240D was as good or maybe even
better...

-Curt

Message: 17
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2007 06:41:46 -0500
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Cold weather
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Just thought I'd share some of my cold weather this morning here near
Corning, NY.

It was about 1F outside.  Block heater was plugged in for a couple
hours
before starting.  It wasn't that bad, but it did take a couple tries.
(Not
NEARLY as bad as this weekend when it was in the single digits during
the
day, no block heater and 2 glow plugs were out.  That took a LOT of
cranking.)  (:
Well, on my mainly 45 minute highway commute at about 70mph, by the end
of
the trip my veggie tank was at about 65F and the cabin temp was up to
about
45F.

Levi


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Re: [MBZ] Cold weather

2007-02-06 Thread Levi Smith

Oh, let's see...  The veggie is T-d in at the back left of the head and then
goes back to the veggie tank and then returns at a T near the alternator.
So...  I believe it's completely parallel, independent of the heater
core(which would make sense since the heater seems to work normally.
However...  I can definitely see where it could be drawing off some of that
initial heat that might otherwise get passed into the heater
core/radiator...

Levi

On 2/6/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 within 15 minutes which is about the time I hit the highway it was up
 to
 around 80-90C and stayed there for the rest of the trip.

 c) the veggie tank sucking out a decent portion of heat

Could be.  But so long as the engine was up to temperature there was
still excess heat available in the engine.

 d)the more or less exposed heater lines that run along the bottom of
 the car
 from the engine compartment to below the rear seat leaking out heat

You could lose a lot there.

 e) the lack of a working aux coolant pump

Usually immaterial except at near-idle conditions.

How is your veg tank plumbed?  In series with the heater core?  Does
it get the hot water first, or second?  If first, for sure your cabin
comfort will suffer!

A carefully-rigged parallel arrangement might be better.  Could need
some flow adjustment valves to get the balance right so one side didn't
hog it all.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wolwo safety

2007-02-06 Thread Levi Smith

Well, I don't think I'd call it a myth.  The fact that the car will go
300-400K miles with almost no maintenance before smoking to a halt is much
preferable to an american car going 100K before smoking to a halt...
I haven't dealt with enough european stuff to compare, though I know my
Mercedes smokes to a start more than to a halt...  (:

Levi

On 2/6/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The myth of the Asian labeled cars thought to be so reliable is partially
due
to their drivers' inability to recognize a defect or mechanical problem
until
the thing smokes to a halt. Oooo, I never have to spend a penny on my
Corolla, Camry or whatever

RLE




Re: [MBZ] Wolwo safety

2007-02-06 Thread Levi Smith

I haven't noticed any change since I got the car and that had generic not
even diesel approved oil in it, then I used the Delco, then a Synthetic
blend and now M1 over the course of maybe 30K miles.  It only seems to be a
few drops at a time, but it sure seems to add up faster than ANYTHING else
I've had...

Levi

On 2/6/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Agreed.  Or compared to an old Mercedes.  My 83' 300D doesn't seem
 to use THAT much oil, (it's been on M1 15-50 for a while now) but it
 is VERY serious about marking it's territory anywhere that it parks.
 In multiple spots.  I definitely don't need to worry about weeds
 growing under the engine in my gravel driveway.

Odd.  My 300D never leaked, even after I switched to Mobil-1 and used
it consistently for a few years.  Then the correct M1 began to be hard
to find locally and I so I've been using Delo for the last couple of
changes -- and now I have a couple of drops on the garage floor every
morning.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-05 Thread Levi Smith

We are of similar age I imagine, I'm 30.  I don't see that many plugs around
here, but I have seen plugs hanging out.  But I KNOW how full of crud it
would get around here.  I suppose the answer would be to just get some sort
of cover for it...

Levi

On 2/5/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Hey Levi,

How old are you? Even back when I was a kid in the '80s I remember seeing
cars with the plug dangling out just above the bumper...
New cords come with a cap, no snow and ice. The old one on my 240D didn't
have the cap but that wasn't a problem until the other end of the cord went
bad...

-Curt

Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2007 14:07:14 -0500
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375
watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first
ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi


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Re: [MBZ] Oil is Killing our Cars....comments anyone?...esp. regarding Mobil 1

2007-02-04 Thread Levi Smith

Speaking of M1...
I was just at a couple Wal-marts and I see one of them now has a M1 10-40
for high mileage engines.  What do we think of this stuff?

Levi

On 2/2/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Christopher McCann wrote:
 http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm


Nothing new here. The nits have been arguing about this for years. The
people that seriously lubricate car and truck engines settled this and
make fine oils. Mercedes warned against choosing oil based on API
rating. Use a Mercedes rated oil and it will protect your engine.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Levi Smith

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi

On 2/4/07, Steve Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?

Steve


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[MBZ] Cold and fuel gelling

2007-01-26 Thread Levi Smith

Well, you can add my name to the list that no longer believes that they sell
fuel that will remain liquid at temps in the area.

I've been testing that theory this year(my first real winter in upstate NY
with my 83' 300D).  It made it at 5F without issue other than a slight lack
of power for a few seconds a time or two.

Well...  This morning it was -6F.  I had it plugged in overnight.  Started
without much issue.  However, to make a long story short:
-I only made it a few hundred feet down the road before it was no longer
happy to just run
-I found I had liquid fuel coming out of the fuel line(though I didn't
realize it was quite that green.  I thought I had anti-freeze coming out)
-I changed both filters which seemed to be fine, but then no fuel came out
after another 30 seconds
So, after an hour and a half (-6F isn't bad at all after about 20 minutes of
monkeying around) I realized that even if fuel is liquid in the lines, it's
not necessarily in the filters and I added about 50% kerosene and a bottle
of that 911 stuff.  I got it well enough that it would stay running, but not
well.  My trip to work was of the ok, here's some power to get to around
30-40mph(I was aiming for closer to 60mph) and ok, well we're only going
about 1 or 2mph(literally), but we haven't quite stalled yet and repeat.
Luckily there was only one other car out there so I wasn't holding up
traffic.

Levi
The Benz is certainly more interesting than the Subaru that I just got in
and drove no matter what the conditions and without worrying about fuel.
(:


[MBZ] Cold and slow wipers and speedo cable whining on 83' 300D

2007-01-26 Thread Levi Smith

Oh, yeah forgot about these other cold weather things with my 83' 300D...

I don't suppose there's any nice and easy common fix to wipers that get slow
and sometimes even stalled at around 15F or lower?(but are fine any other
time)

My speedo cable is whining.  I've ignored it in other cars, but this one is
REALLY LOUD and sometimes goes for 20 minutes before shutting up.  Is the
procedure just to pull the gauges, disconnect the speedo cable and put a few
drops of something like motor oil in the cable?

Thanks!
Levi (:


Re: [MBZ] Cold and slow wipers and speedo cable whining on 83' 300D

2007-01-26 Thread Levi Smith

Duno, I've never tried to fix one to find out.  I'm not exactly sure what's
back there.  I was thinking there was basically a metal cable in a sleeve
that just inserts into the speedo and then there is a ring on the outside
that screws down to hold everything tight.  Where is this sleeve bearing?
In the speedo?  or on the end of the cable?  If it's on the end of the
cable, how would you otherwise lube the cable?

Thanks!
Levi

On 1/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 My speedo cable is whining.  I've ignored it in other cars, but this
 one is
 REALLY LOUD and sometimes goes for 20 minutes before shutting up.  Is
 the
 procedure just to pull the gauges, disconnect the speedo cable and put
 a few
 drops of something like motor oil in the cable?

I've been using M1 5W20 for this.  Are you sure it's the cable and
not the sleeve bearing in the head?  That's usually the source of
any shrieking in my experience.  Same fix, but requires application
in a little different location.

If you let it go for very long it'll ruin the cable sleeve (or the
bearing itself), rendering oil-based 'repairs' useless.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cold and fuel gelling

2007-01-26 Thread Levi Smith

AHAHAHA, Biod or better yet, Veg?  at -6F???  No, that stays in it's own
little separate tank and only comes out after everything is nice and warm
and goes away long enough before I shut down to make sure diesel is back in
the lines.

If regular diesel is gelling, I can't imagine just how much petrol it would
take to make veggie reliably flow...  I'm pretty sure my veggie tank was a
solid brick this morning.  (:

Levi

On 1/26/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


If you have BioD in there or some form of VO, you need to cut it with
enough petrol to dilute down so it will flow.  Gump was doing the same
thing on our very cold days.  Got to a petrol pump and a half gallon
later, and shaking the car vigorously, she was once more able to make
over highway speed.

YMMV

Marshall will tell you this is a bad idea for a newer diesel benz

On Jan 26, 2007, at 6:29 AM, Levi Smith wrote:

 Well, you can add my name to the list that no longer believes that
 they sell
 fuel that will remain liquid at temps in the area.

 I've been testing that theory this year(my first real winter in
 upstate NY
 with my 83' 300D).  It made it at 5F without issue other than a slight
 lack
 of power for a few seconds a time or two.

 Well...  This morning it was -6F.  I had it plugged in overnight.
 Started
 without much issue.  However, to make a long story short:
 -I only made it a few hundred feet down the road before it was no
 longer
 happy to just run
 -I found I had liquid fuel coming out of the fuel line(though I didn't
 realize it was quite that green.  I thought I had anti-freeze coming
 out)
 -I changed both filters which seemed to be fine, but then no fuel came
 out
 after another 30 seconds
 So, after an hour and a half (-6F isn't bad at all after about 20
 minutes of
 monkeying around) I realized that even if fuel is liquid in the lines,
 it's
 not necessarily in the filters and I added about 50% kerosene and a
 bottle
 of that 911 stuff.  I got it well enough that it would stay running,
 but not
 well.  My trip to work was of the ok, here's some power to get to
 around
 30-40mph(I was aiming for closer to 60mph) and ok, well we're only
 going
 about 1 or 2mph(literally), but we haven't quite stalled yet and
 repeat.
 Luckily there was only one other car out there so I wasn't holding up
 traffic.

 Levi
 The Benz is certainly more interesting than the Subaru that I just
 got in
 and drove no matter what the conditions and without worrying about
 fuel.
 (:
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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[MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

Well, I've finally found that point where as Marshall describes it:
Everything must be perfect for cold weather starting.  I started yesterday
morning at like 15F without issue.  This morning it was about 5F.  At that
point, I have now experienced what cold weather starting is in my 83' 300D.
It DID start, but it took some effort.  I think I may be able to start
quicker next time.
NORMALLY, if it's like 20F or lower I'll let it glow for around 10-15
seconds longer than the light says, hold the pedal to the floor and crank
until it starts at which point I let off the fuel proportionately as it
starts speeding up to keep it at a fast idle.  It won't idle on it's own for
a minute or two.
HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF the
fuel...  My startup went like this:
Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25 seconds
with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather slowly)
and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying out
again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press my
luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and again it
slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.  So I
took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming to
life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a few
seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.  I'm
just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my 15 minute trip to
work with the defrosters and headlights and what not on.
This would NOT have been possible with an iffy battery for sure.  I
couldn't believe that even this new one had that sort of power in it.  (and
yes I have M1 15w-50 in there).

So, at this point I guess I'll plan on using the block heater if it's
supposed to go into single digits. and see if I can notice a difference
(cause I didn't notice a difference at around 20F).

The other potential problem is that for some reason when temps around
somewhere below around 20F my wipers turn into EXTREMELY slow or maybe even
stop.  It did it the other day, but then it's been fine this week, but this
morning they did need my help to actually make it back to rest.

Levi


Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to get
out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster nor as
much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably about
10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to get
the temp up to 80C.

Levi

On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let OFF
 the
 fuel...  My startup went like this:
 Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
 seconds
 with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
 slowly)
 and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
 out
 again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to press
 my
 luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like 30
 seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
 again it
 slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying again.
 So I
 took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started coming
 to
 life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for a
 few
 seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it running.

I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has started
very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
(It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)

Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
making it any harder than I have to to start.

 I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
 15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
 what not on.

'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
charger for occasional overnight refreshment.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Cold Weather

2007-01-17 Thread Levi Smith

14843

I couldn't help but notice that you didn't include your location.  (:

Levi

On 1/17/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hey guys, as a practical matter, and because I'm a weather nut, please
identify WHERE you live when discussing the cold temperatures.

Andrew
24 degrees F. this AM, going into the high 30s.

On 1/17/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Yeah, It's supposed to be closer to 25F this afternoon and I'm hoping to
 get
 out before dark so hoping I won't need the headlights, rear defroster
nor
 as
 much for starting.  I'll plug in the block heater so tomorrow's single
 digits hopefully won't be as bad, and if nothing else it gets a nice 45
 minute charge about 4 times a week.  The 15 minute drives are probably
 about
 10 times a week, but normally they're not this cold and it's enough to
get
 the temp up to 80C.

 Levi

 On 1/17/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   HOWEVER...  Apparently when it gets down around 5F, I need to let
OFF
   the
   fuel...  My startup went like this:
   Glow light went off around 15 seconds.  I started cranking around 25
   seconds
   with the fuel to the floor.  cranked for maybe 5-10 seconds (rather
   slowly)
   and it started to make some sounds of combustion, then started dying
   out
   again.  I let it crank for maybe another 5 seconds.  Decided to
press
   my
   luck and try for another glow cycle.  I think I let it go for like
30
   seconds this time.  Tried cranking again with the pedal floored and
   again it
   slighty sounded like it was going to start, then started dying
again.
   So I
   took my foot off the fuel and after a couple seconds it started
coming
   to
   life.  It was about half running with the starter still helping for
a
   few
   seconds while I tried to feed in just enough fuel to keep it
running.
 
  I continue to be impressed with the 200D's cold-starting ability.
  It must have _very_ good compression.  Even at its worst it has
started
  very easily in comparison.  I'm sure the POS battery is its weakest
  link right now.  There's no doubt the car has a no-start temperature,
  and that we've been pretty close to it here lately, but so far, so
  good...  This car exhibits none of the coughing and puking of the
  SDL when cold-starting, and that car lives in a semi-warm garage.
  (It probably has air-leaky IP seals.)
 
  Of course, at home I use the block heater a lot.  No sense
  making it any harder than I have to to start.
 
   I'm just hoping I got enough charge back in the battery on my
   15 minute trip to work with the defrosters and headlights and
   what not on.
 
  'Enough'?  Perhaps, but certainly you didn't get a full charge
  back in in only that time.  Not with what it sounds like you took
  out.  Get in some longer drives, or invest in a small battery
  charger for occasional overnight refreshment.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Driving safety while covered with ice

2007-01-16 Thread Levi Smith

Pretty frequently around upstate NY.  But they normally get pulled over by
vans or the Suburbans or what not that have the equipment to dip tanks and
check brakes and all that.

Levi

On 1/16/07, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Werner Fehlauer wrote:
 So how do Canadian Semi drivers keep any snow and ice from collecting on
the
 tops of their trailers?  Seems like a law against dropping mother
nature's
 benevolence is pretty hard to justify in the real world!


I've seen some pretty monster ice sheets blow off semi trailers, but I
suppose it's impractical for drivers to clean them off.

If Canada is like the U.S., the semi drivers probably get a pass from
law enforcement anyway.  When was the last time you saw a semi pulled
over?

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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota

2007-01-15 Thread Levi Smith

Tell me about it.  I worked in IT as a tech.  They hired this lady as a
tech.  She literally was not good at her job and didn't know how to do most
of it.  She was promoted to manager.  The absolute best story I heard told
was from a friend who was apparently telling her about their new central
vacuum they had installed at their house.  The first question this manager
had?  What do you do when the walls get full?
Priceless.

Levi
This thought process was made ever more present to me when during heavy
layoffs they laid off approximately 1/3 of the IT technicians(you know the
ones that did the work and were paid the least) and kept every single
manager there.

On 1/14/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The US plants have American managers.  If they are like the ones I have
currently at my current job (major US company as a contractor), they
can turn any set of parts into junk.

The notion that if you know how to do it you are prohibited from
managing it seems to be universal in the US -- the only thing that
counts is daily cash savings.  Actual knowledge appears to disqualify
one to manage anything -- most of my current managers (in a materials
supply industry) have degrees in Liberal Arts.

Naturally, you get lousy product as a result.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality vs Toyota

2007-01-15 Thread Levi Smith

It probably is.  I was going to mention that she was in fact a blonde, but
decided to leave it out.  I guess sometimes there's a reason that stereotype
exists.  (:

Levi

On 1/15/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This misogynistic tale is probably apochryphal, sounding instead like
a modified blonde joke.

On 1/15/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Tell me about it.  I worked in IT as a tech.  They hired this lady as a
 tech.  She literally was not good at her job and didn't know how to do
most
 of it.  She was promoted to manager.  The absolute best story I heard
told
 was from a friend who was apparently telling her about their new central
 vacuum they had installed at their house.  The first question this
manager
 had?  What do you do when the walls get full?
 Priceless.

 Levi
 This thought process was made ever more present to me when during heavy
 layoffs they laid off approximately 1/3 of the IT technicians(you know
the
 ones that did the work and were paid the least) and kept every single
 manager there.

 On 1/14/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  The US plants have American managers.  If they are like the ones I
have
  currently at my current job (major US company as a contractor), they
  can turn any set of parts into junk.
 
  The notion that if you know how to do it you are prohibited from
  managing it seems to be universal in the US -- the only thing that
  counts is daily cash savings.  Actual knowledge appears to disqualify
  one to manage anything -- most of my current managers (in a materials
  supply industry) have degrees in Liberal Arts.
 
  Naturally, you get lousy product as a result.
 
  Peter
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT Winows XP annoying click requirement

2007-01-14 Thread Levi Smith

I'm not sure if there's an easier way, but you could set up AutoAdminLogon
in the registry.  You could probably google it.  If I remember correctly
it's in localmachine\microsoft\windowsnt\currentversion\winlogon  you need
to have that autoadminlogon key set to 1, and the defaultusername,
defaultdomain and defaultpassword all set.

Levi

On 1/14/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Does anyone know if there is a way to disable the requirement that Windows
XP has that the user click on their user icon in order to get the computer
to either turn on or to wake up?

We upgraded from 98 to XP some months ago, and the most annoying feature
is that when I turn on the computer, I am required to be there to
physically
move the mouse to the little frog icon and click so that the stupid thing
can proceed with its startup procedure. In the past, I would hit the power
button to turn the computer on, then I'd leave the room and do something
else, then come back to my waiting computer ready for action. Now, with
XP, I have to come back just to click on the damned frog, then go away
again
while it finishes the final 2/3 of its startup procedure, and then I can
come back and use my computer. Any way around this?

Also:

Has anyone installed Virtual Earth 3D and run it successfully? It's that
map/locating program, but I guess they now have a way you can see (I'm
assuming fly-through photography) great new 3D views of selected cities. I
tried to install it on both my desktop and my laptop, but unsuccessful.
Any
experiences here?

Thanks
Brian
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Re: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE

2007-01-11 Thread Levi Smith

I hear Mobil 1 make the wisdom teeth slide out easier and also doubles as a
numbing agent.  However it does tend to make people a bit loopy...

On 1/11/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Dunno which is worse:  a wisdom tooth-removal thread or another endless
riff
on synthetic vs. real motor oils...

On 1/10/07, Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I shall feel your pain a week from tomorrow...if I ever get over this
 wretched head cold.

 Bob R


 - Original Message -
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 7:49 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] YOU PEOPLE BEHAVE


  Im WAY out of it at the moment, had 3 wisdom teeth pulled
today.  Thats
  a story for banned, which, I think is on banned.  I am NOT reading th
  elist now as Im too screwed up.  Keep it under control :)
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
   87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
   81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.striplin.net
 
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Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires

2007-01-10 Thread Levi Smith

Daunting?  It's just a wire maybe 6 inches long with a plug on either
end...  Unplug dead one, plug in new one...

Levi

On 1/10/07, Chris Kueny [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


It seems Beevis at the tire store tore off the pad sensor wire from the
brake caliper on the front of my 85 123 wagon.  How have you guys delt
with
that?  Seems like I should replace the wire, but it looks daunting.  Any
hints?

Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
78 Chevy Custom deluxe
'85 300TD
'02 Subaru Outback


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Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires

2007-01-10 Thread Levi Smith

Nope, it's just a little shorty.  You might have to use pliers or a
screwdriver to pry out the old plug(s) but that's about the extent of the
difficulty.   (:

Levi

On 1/10/07, Chris Kueny [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


That's good.  I thought it snaked it's way up into the engine compartment
Thanks.


Chris K
Cayce, SC


- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Brake pad sensor wires


 Daunting?  It's just a wire maybe 6 inches long with a plug on either
 end...  Unplug dead one, plug in new one...

 Levi

 On 1/10/07, Chris Kueny [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It seems Beevis at the tire store tore off the pad sensor wire from the
 brake caliper on the front of my 85 123 wagon.  How have you guys delt
 with
 that?  Seems like I should replace the wire, but it looks
daunting.  Any
 hints?

 Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
 78 Chevy Custom deluxe
 '85 300TD
 '02 Subaru Outback


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Re: [MBZ] O.T. Lister Age Span

2007-01-05 Thread Levi Smith

I was thinking the exact same thing when I read this, thinking how it was
only a couple months ago that I was still in my twenties...  (:

Levi

On 1/5/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



I remember when I used to be the youngest at things, but at 30 I'm
apparently an oldster...

Heck when I still worked in tech support I was ANCIENT.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 05:53:22 -0500
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] O.T. Lister Age Span
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I thought I was the youngest at 26 ... whoops.

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Re: [MBZ] RSS feeds and Craigslist

2007-01-05 Thread Levi Smith

Really Simple Syndication.  Sometimes known as a News Aggregator.  Check out
http://reader.google.com for a web-based version.
Makes it easy to keep track of headlines/articles coming from your favorite
sites.(assuming they're providing RSS feeds.  If you've got Firefox and you
see that little yellow square with the signal in it at the right edge of
your address bar then that site does)

Levi

On 1/5/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


What is an RSS reader and why would I want to know about it?  Not being
flippant, just curious...

On 1/5/07, Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does anyone use a RSS reader to scan the craigslist postings for
Mercedes
 cars?
 If not I have a cool way of doing it through Google.

 Rory
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Re: [MBZ] burning used oil

2007-01-04 Thread Levi Smith

Oh yeah, left that out.  Definitely filter it to about 5 microns.  I
wouldn't just go dumping it in. (though it seems you'd just have to replace
your car's filters sooners if you did).
I might also have a different opinion if I had a pristine Benz that was my
baby.  I view my 83' 300D more of as the old tank.  (:

Levi

On 1/3/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Hans Neureiter wrote:
 Long ago there was a discussion on how much drained engine oil (Mobil 1)
is
 OK to put in the fueltank.
 I am finding it more and more difficult to drop off used oil at mac
parts
 places. They act annoyed and let you wait.
 At $ 2.50+ a gallon diesel it would also cut down the initial cost of
the
 oil.

The idea of pumping used motor oil (that is sufficiently contaminated to
be discarded) through the most precise piece of equipment in your car
(the injection pump and system) seems insane to me.

On top of that, motor oil burns hotter than diesel fuel so outside the
range that the engine was optimized for. Conventional motor oil burns a
bit more smoothly than Mobil 1! I've been told that the companies that
make the furnaces that burn used motor oil have recommended NOT using
Mobil 1 or other group IV synthetics, but I am not aware of their
reasoning.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[MBZ] Gas vs. diesel prices?

2007-01-04 Thread Levi Smith

Anyone heard or care to make any guesses on the price difference between gas
and diesel?  Am I ever going to see Diesel cheaper than gas again?  Or is
diesel simply going to keep it's 30-80 cent increase in price over gas?  Is
it because of ulsd?

Levi


Re: [MBZ] Subaru to make world's first boxer turbodiesel

2007-01-04 Thread Levi Smith

COOL!  Now if only it were coming to the US next year for $5K got 75mpg and
came in an AWD minivan...

Levi (:
Ahh, dreams...

On 1/4/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



http://news.hspn.com/articles/793/3/Subaru-at-The-2006-Paris-Motorshow/Page3.html

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'92 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] speaking of ULSD

2007-01-04 Thread Levi Smith

Hmm...  It would be hard to argue that adding Marshall to any Mercedes could
be anything but good...

Levi (:

On 1/4/07, TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


As I recall he's short, but I don't think Marshall is small enough to
get past the filler spout.

Tim
1982 300TD
1001 300TE 4Matic

--
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2007 11:57:14 -0600
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] speaking of ULSD

Last time I filled up last week was the first time I noticed the sticker
saying it was the ULSD.  Since we seem to be getting it now, should I be
adding anything to each tank of diesel?  Marshall?

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Re: [MBZ] Gas vs. diesel prices?

2007-01-04 Thread Levi Smith

Exactly.  It's a waste to put in premium UNLESS your manual tells you to put
it in.  In modern cars it probably won't cause any damage to put in lower
octane than recommended but you probably won't get full performance.

Levi

On 1/4/07, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Au contrare - while most modern cars are under computer control so that
when
they sense knocking, they can retard the spark accordingly so that the
driver thinks all is OK, the engine does NOT run as efficiently as it can.
Mileage and power suffer.

A car that is designed with a high compression ratio that requires fuel
that
has good antiknock properties will perform better and more efficiently
with
the proper grade fuel.

Now if you're talking about additives, just about all gasoline has enough
of
the needed snake oil additives to keep the fuel system clean and
operating
as designed.  Its the engine and its high compression that requires the
high
octane stuff.

Werner

- Original Message -
From: Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 04, 2007 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Gas vs. diesel prices?


 Running hi grade gasoline in most modern EFI cars is a waste of
money.  If
 it runs fine without pinging on 87 then there is no reason for a higher
 octane.

 Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Levi Smith

Have you had a lot of batteries explode?

Levi (:
Still wondering if there's any hope for his Red top Optima that seems to
just continually draw as much power as you put in it (sucked 5 amps for
about 3 days straight before I disconnected it).

On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I
mean,
the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
kettle syndrome.

Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block
heater.
My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all last
time
I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from Rusty.

Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as I
crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't
explode.

Brian
83 240D


On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to about
 20F.
 Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all the
way
 down to about -5F without the block heater.

 Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a challenge. I
 dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
 I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the valves
set
 again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing
behind
 the pickup truck twice a week...
 FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to start
 again. The old b




attery just didn't have the capacity needed.

 -Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Trying out 0Wxx Mobil 1

2007-01-02 Thread Levi Smith

I would have thought it more likely to be a spark in the vicinity during one
of those charging times that caused the explosion?  I wasn't aware that
under normal circumstances you could blow up a battery simply by charging
it...  Or maybe it was possible with older batteries?

Levi

On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Ha. No, hopefully I'd have learned by now if I had.

I've seen, or at least heard, two or three batterties explode when I
worked
at at service station. I think the cause was leaving them on a somewhat
rapid charge for too long with the caps still on. And I think once I saw
one
explode from cranking the engine with the charger hooked up to it - this
probably after being on the charger for a good period of time with the
caps
on?

The bubbling noise, seeping sound, heat, and sulfer-like smell are all
warning signs. But with many young men working in a busy shop with their
attentions divided many ways, (some of them - not me- high on either pot
or
freon sucked straight out of a car's system) this can still happen.

Brian


On 1/2/07, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Have you had a lot of batteries explode?

 Levi (:
 Still wondering if there's any hope for his Red top Optima that seems to
 just continually draw as much power as you put in it (sucked 5 amps for
 about 3 days straight before I disconnected it).

 On 1/2/07, Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  That's interesting about the battery. Did it not sound differently - I
  mean,
  the starter didn't audibly sound slower? Maybe it was the frog in the
  kettle syndrome.
 
  Encouraging that starts are possible in those temps without a block
  heater.
  My 240D seems to need glow plugs right now - wouldn't start at all
last
  time
  I tried (in about 30 degree weather). Must order some plugs from
Rusty.
 
  Often, on my other car, if I have the time, I'll throw my small batt.
  charger on and set it to boost as I crank, if it's particularly cold
  outside, just to sort of keep the batt. from having to work so hard as
I
  crank for a longer time. Of course I cringe, hoping the batt. won't
  explode.
 
  Brian
  83 240D
 
 
  On 1/2/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
  
   Until the battery went bad my 240D would start really well down to
 about
   20F.
   Below that it was alot of cranking but I could get it to start all
the
  way
   down to about -5F without the block heater.
  
   Once the battery went bad starts colder than say 25F were a
challenge.
 I
   dunno why I had blinders on to that one.
   I tripple checked the glowplugs, put in some anti-gel, had the
valves
  set
   again, all sorts of hokum and we were still dragging the poor thing
  behind
   the pickup truck twice a week...
   FINALLY I dropped $65 at Autozone and it was back to being able to
 start
   again. The old b
 
 
 
 
  attery just didn't have the capacity needed.
  
   -Curt
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