[MBZ] '84 300CD

2022-06-26 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Tried starting car, glow plug light did not come on,  and the starter did
not engage.  Checked battery, all good,  Let sit for a while, tried it
again, light came on, car started.  Does this sound like glow plug issue,
or starter solenoid?
 Ralph, '84 300 CD.
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[MBZ] 1984 MB 300CD steering box

2022-04-23 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I thank everyone who replied to my request.  I had a local garage do the
alignment;, he checked with the company that rebuilds these units that was
supplied to me from one of you.  He was able to get the specs and did the
alignment.  I am happy to have it able to drive, but I am not 100% happy
with the performance.  It still has a point on the turning that feels like
it is sticking, but the play in the wheel and stability on the road is
great now.  I will continue to seek the reason for the strange feel in the
steering wheel, but am pleased to have it road worthy again.
Thanks again.

Ralph
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 M.B. 300CD Steering Box

2022-04-21 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
when I put the cd in the drive, it just buzzes, doesn't want to download.
I figured it was because my current laptop runs windows 10 and the original
one I used with these CD's was probably win.7 or earlier.  The DVD  drive
doesn't even show up in my laptop directory as running. The drive D just
buzzes then slowly stops but never actually opens up on the laptop.  Maybe
my drive is shot, don't use it much now a days;  mostly use thumb drives..

On Thu, Apr 21, 2022 at 10:50 AM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Load the CDs on your hard drive and get the index for the manual
> (nervig?) and use that as the front end.
>
> --FT
>
> On 4/21/22 9:20 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:
> > I have 2 CD's purchased a number of years ago from M.B. that are titled
> > "Factory Service Shop Manuals, 1983-2000, CD1. and CD2, that I used when
> I
> > had an older laptop 32Bit computer, but it doesn't seem to want to work
> > with my newer Windows 10 laptop.  Not sure if these would be any good for
> > that information.  I cannot see what all is on these now though.  I
> bought
> > them quite a few years ago, and did review them for certain areas, but I
> > haven't opened them for a. long time.
> > I am checking around to see if I can find a garage that has the proper
> > specs. for the alignment.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Apr 21, 2022 at 9:12 AM mitch--- via Mercedes<
> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I'm sure the specs are in the W123 manual, which several of us have on
> >> CD somewhere (don't ask me where mine is, probably on a defective
> >> Seagate hard drive that bricked itself ten years ago)
> >>
> >> One thing that stands out in my memory is you MUST use a spring tension
> >> bar to toe the wheels out while adjusting toe to spec.
> >>
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> --
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 M.B. 300CD Steering Box

2022-04-21 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I have 2 CD's purchased a number of years ago from M.B. that are titled
"Factory Service Shop Manuals, 1983-2000, CD1. and CD2, that I used when I
had an older laptop 32Bit computer, but it doesn't seem to want to work
with my newer Windows 10 laptop.  Not sure if these would be any good for
that information.  I cannot see what all is on these now though.  I bought
them quite a few years ago, and did review them for certain areas, but I
haven't opened them for a. long time.
I am checking around to see if I can find a garage that has the proper
specs. for the alignment.

Ralph


On Thu, Apr 21, 2022 at 9:12 AM mitch--- via Mercedes 
wrote:

>
> I'm sure the specs are in the W123 manual, which several of us have on
> CD somewhere (don't ask me where mine is, probably on a defective
> Seagate hard drive that bricked itself ten years ago)
>
> One thing that stands out in my memory is you MUST use a spring tension
> bar to toe the wheels out while adjusting toe to spec.
>
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[MBZ] 1984 M.B. 300CD Steering Box

2022-04-21 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
As a follow up to my issue, I have received the rebuilt steering box, have
it installed and now awaiting a front end alignment to finalize the job.
The garage does alignments but does not have the necessary specs to do this
job.  I have checked around to find a shop that has these and can't seem to
find anyone.  Does anyone on here have knowledge of these particular specs
that the machine requires to finish the job correctly? Apparently M.B.
vehicles are the only ones that are not available to do the job.
Thanks, Ralph
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300CD Steering Box

2022-04-13 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
My steering became stiff and would try to lock up when turning.  The
steering had started having a bit of play while driving, and I had to
constantly correct it.  Didn't bother me much and I just figured it was old
and needed some slight adjustment, but then this locking up and stiffness
set in very quickly.  He analyzed all the front end linkage from the actual
steering shaft and everything is fine there.  After disconnecting all the
items involved with the steering, this problem still persists.  That left
only the direct steering box intact, and the issue was still there.  There
are very few older style M.B.'s in my area, here in N.B., Canada, but he
does have an  '84/85 300C of his own, not a diesel, but hasn't run into
this problem before.  I doubt one would be available at a wrecking yard,
but I could check.
If I could find another part I am pretty sure he could get it done okay.
Can these be rebuilt?
Thanks.
Ralph

On Tue, Apr 12, 2022 at 4:38 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> I would first say, if you're not doing your own work, then find a shop
> that is experienced in older MB vehicles before doing any expensive repairs
> (may be easier said than done depending on where you are located).
>
> What is the problem the mechanic diagnosed?
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 12, 2022, at 2:08 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:
> > I am having a problem with my steering box, and I am looking to replace
> it,
> > if I can find one.  The garage I have looking into my problem feels I
> would
> > have to replace it with either a new one or a reconditioned one; if there
> > is such a thing.  Would this part be available thru a normal auto parts
> > store, or should I be enquiring thru a M.B. Dealer?  The mechanic is not
> a
> > M.B specialist, and is not familiar with this part.  Would it be
> reasonable
> > to overhaul it, or is it a replacement situation?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Ralph  Robertson
>
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[MBZ] 1984 300CD Steering Box

2022-04-12 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I am having a problem with my steering box, and I am looking to replace it,
if I can find one.  The garage I have looking into my problem feels I would
have to replace it with either a new one or a reconditioned one; if there
is such a thing.  Would this part be available thru a normal auto parts
store, or should I be enquiring thru a M.B. Dealer?  The mechanic is not a
M.B specialist, and is not familiar with this part.  Would it be reasonable
to overhaul it, or is it a replacement situation?

Thanks.
Ralph  Robertson
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300CD Power Steering

2022-04-10 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I will get those items checked out thoroughly  right away.

Ralph

On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 11:07 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If the PS pump and box are working that’s the only other thing I can think
> of. Ball joints too maybe, or something in the steering shaft.
>
> —FT
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 10, 2022, at 9:59 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > That is very possible.  Now that it is moving freely, I will quickly
> have
> > this done.  I shouldn't have any further difficulties in the trip to the
> > garage to have this done, hopefully.  I never thought of that.  I rarely
> > use the car and rarely do have issues with this car. Thanks.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> >> On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 10:45 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Did your steering links get corroded from sitting?  Lube time?
> >>
> >> —FT
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPad
> >>
> >>> On Apr 10, 2022, at 6:46 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Today I moved my '84 300 CD out of the garage, stored for winter, and
> >> the
> >>> steering wheel was sticky, stiff to turn and clicked a couple of times
> >> from
> >>> turning left to right .  Seems okay, now, but worried something might
> be
> >>> wrong.  The fluid is not low, and it seems to be okay, but thinking it
> >> may
> >>> be stiffer than usual.  Any ideas on what could have caused this?
> Thanks
> >>> Ralph '84 300CD
> >>> ___
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> >>
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Re: [MBZ] 1984 300CD Power Steering

2022-04-10 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
That is very possible.  Now that it is moving freely, I will quickly have
this done.  I shouldn't have any further difficulties in the trip to the
garage to have this done, hopefully.  I never thought of that.  I rarely
use the car and rarely do have issues with this car. Thanks.

Ralph

On Sun, Apr 10, 2022 at 10:45 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Did your steering links get corroded from sitting?  Lube time?
>
> —FT
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 10, 2022, at 6:46 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Today I moved my '84 300 CD out of the garage, stored for winter, and
> the
> > steering wheel was sticky, stiff to turn and clicked a couple of times
> from
> > turning left to right .  Seems okay, now, but worried something might  be
> > wrong.  The fluid is not low, and it seems to be okay, but thinking it
> may
> > be stiffer than usual.  Any ideas on what could have caused this?  Thanks
> > Ralph '84 300CD
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[MBZ] 1984 300CD Power Steering

2022-04-10 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Today I moved my '84 300 CD out of the garage, stored for winter, and the
steering wheel was sticky, stiff to turn and clicked a couple of times from
turning left to right .  Seems okay, now, but worried something might  be
wrong.  The fluid is not low, and it seems to be okay, but thinking it may
be stiffer than usual.  Any ideas on what could have caused this?  Thanks
Ralph '84 300CD
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[MBZ] storing '84MB 300CD

2021-10-11 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I was wondering why it is important to change the oil before storing the
car for the winter months.  This oil has only less than 1000 miles on it,
seems a  waste of oil to do so.

Thanks
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[MBZ] MB 300CD, trailer hitch

2021-08-02 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I am considering installing a trailer hitch on my '84 300CD in order to
move some personal luggage from my winter home in Florida back to my
northern home. Are there  some difficulties I should aware of in doing
this?

Ralph '84 300CD
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[MBZ] Brake Fluid

2021-07-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Thanks for the responses.  I had rec'd. info that  Dot 2 and also Dot 5.1
was the correct MB recommendations, so I am asking the group what is the
correct one. Also, a MB Dealer is a long way off for me, I usually go to a
local parts dealer. I have had the pads checked, and all ok, however I did
notice some dampness around the master cyl. and figured I will have that
looked into, once I top up the reservoir with Dot 4.  Thanks.
Ralph
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[MBZ] Brake Fluid

2021-07-16 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I'm trying to find out what is the best brake fluid for my '84 MB 300CD.
The reservor is low.  By brake llght came on,  but I still have working
brakes, just low.  Thanks.

Ralph '84 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL Glow Plugs

2019-08-02 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I checked my strips using a magnifying glass and the amp. says 80.  I have
ordered already for 2 to be shipped and they are 100 A.  Wouldn't those be
better; a bit stronger?  Or could that cause problems?  They are cheap
enough to have to re-order.
I used a heavy wire as a jumper, but not planning on using the car 'till
the new ones arrive.

Thanks for all the advice.

Ralph

On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 11:49 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> There are a bunch of different amperages available. The rating is stamped
> in the center of the fuse strip as I recall.
>
> -D
>
>
> > On Aug 1, 2019, at 10:27 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I think the six cylinders use 80 amp.
> > --
> > Max Dillon
> > Charleston SC
> >
> > On August 1, 2019 8:39:54 AM EDT, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> I *think* they’re the same (20A?) but check to make sure the amperage
> >> on both cars is the same.
> >>
> >> --FT
> >> Sent from iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Aug 1, 2019, at 8:35 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
> >>  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Thanks, will be sure to get a couple of extras.  I also have an '84
> >> 300CD,
> >>> which probably uses the same type of strip fuse.  So extras will come
> >> in
> >>> handy.
> >>>
> >>> Ralph
> >>>
> >>> On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 9:13 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Ralph,
> >>>>
> >>>> As you found, the strip fuses deteriorate over time and simply split
> >> in
> >>>> many cases. They heat up and cool as they’re used, and this thermal
> >> cycling
> >>>> causes them to eventually crack or split. A lot of times it’s not
> >> easy to
> >>>> see, so I always recommend that you remove the fuse from the screws
> >> and
> >>>> when you do you’ll often have them fall apart as yours did.
> >>>>
> >>>> It’s a good idea to have a couple of these on hand, so when you buy
> >> a
> >>>> replacement, get tow or three.
> >>>>
> >>>> -D
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Aug 1, 2019, at 7:53 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> >>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I found the relay, and the strip fuse was bent upwards, touched it
> >> and it
> >>>>> fell apart.  Jumped the two terminals and the glow plug light came
> >> on.
> >>>> Made
> >>>>> my connections more firm, and let the glow plugs light up for 4-5
> >> seconds
> >>>>> and voila, engine started up immediately.  Thank you very much.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Ralph
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 7:52 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
> >>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Strip fuse?  On GP relay which on my SDs is mounted above left
> >> front
> >>>> wheel
> >>>>>> toward the front. You can jump it to see if that gets power to the
> >> GPs
> >>>> or
> >>>>>> just change it, they’re like $2.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Or the relay itself could have gone bad. If the fuse is good then
> >> jump
> >>>> the
> >>>>>> relay and see if that works. Or you can take the cover off the
> >> relay and
> >>>>>> see if it closes, and manually push it closed to see if that would
> >> get
> >>>>>> power to the GPs if it is not working.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> --FT
> >>>>>> Sent from iPhone
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Aug 1, 2019, at 6:14 AM, Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes <
> >>>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I tried starting my car this morning but my glow plug light did
> >> not
> >>>> come
> >>>>>> on.  First time in 10 yrs. owning this car.  It was a very warm
> >> day and
> >>>>>> thought maybe in might start

Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL Glow Plugs

2019-08-01 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Thanks, will be sure to get a couple of extras.  I also have an '84 300CD,
which probably uses the same type of strip fuse.  So extras will come in
handy.

Ralph

On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 9:13 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Ralph,
>
> As you found, the strip fuses deteriorate over time and simply split in
> many cases. They heat up and cool as they’re used, and this thermal cycling
> causes them to eventually crack or split. A lot of times it’s not easy to
> see, so I always recommend that you remove the fuse from the screws and
> when you do you’ll often have them fall apart as yours did.
>
> It’s a good idea to have a couple of these on hand, so when you buy a
> replacement, get tow or three.
>
> -D
>
>
>
>
> > On Aug 1, 2019, at 7:53 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I found the relay, and the strip fuse was bent upwards, touched it and it
> > fell apart.  Jumped the two terminals and the glow plug light came on.
> Made
> > my connections more firm, and let the glow plugs light up for 4-5 seconds
> > and voila, engine started up immediately.  Thank you very much.
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 7:52 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Strip fuse?  On GP relay which on my SDs is mounted above left front
> wheel
> >> toward the front. You can jump it to see if that gets power to the GPs
> or
> >> just change it, they’re like $2.
> >>
> >> Or the relay itself could have gone bad. If the fuse is good then jump
> the
> >> relay and see if that works. Or you can take the cover off the relay and
> >> see if it closes, and manually push it closed to see if that would get
> >> power to the GPs if it is not working.
> >>
> >> --FT
> >> Sent from iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Aug 1, 2019, at 6:14 AM, Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I tried starting my car this morning but my glow plug light did not
> come
> >> on.  First time in 10 yrs. owning this car.  It was a very warm day and
> >> thought maybe in might start without the glow plugs.  No go!  Looked in
> the
> >> fuse box but could not find anything for the glow plugs.  Where would I
> >> find these for the glow plugs? Never had any problems thus far with glow
> >> plugs, or injectors.
> >>> Thanks.Ralph, '87 300 SDL
> >>> ___
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> >>
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> >>
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL Glow Plugs

2019-08-01 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I found the relay, and the strip fuse was bent upwards, touched it and it
fell apart.  Jumped the two terminals and the glow plug light came on. Made
my connections more firm, and let the glow plugs light up for 4-5 seconds
and voila, engine started up immediately.  Thank you very much.

Ralph

On Thu, Aug 1, 2019 at 7:52 AM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Strip fuse?  On GP relay which on my SDs is mounted above left front wheel
> toward the front. You can jump it to see if that gets power to the GPs or
> just change it, they’re like $2.
>
> Or the relay itself could have gone bad. If the fuse is good then jump the
> relay and see if that works. Or you can take the cover off the relay and
> see if it closes, and manually push it closed to see if that would get
> power to the GPs if it is not working.
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
> > On Aug 1, 2019, at 6:14 AM, Ralph,'84TD via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I tried starting my car this morning but my glow plug light did not come
> on.  First time in 10 yrs. owning this car.  It was a very warm day and
> thought maybe in might start without the glow plugs.  No go!  Looked in the
> fuse box but could not find anything for the glow plugs.  Where would I
> find these for the glow plugs? Never had any problems thus far with glow
> plugs, or injectors.
> > Thanks.Ralph, '87 300 SDL
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[MBZ] '87 300 SDL Axle Assembly

2016-01-30 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I was advised by my mechanic that I need an axle assembly.  I checked
around to see prices and could not find any available.  If they are no
longer available, can the old ones be rebuilt?
Thanks.
Ralph
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Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL rear wheel bearings

2016-01-18 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I haven't noticed any noise from the rear bearings, it must be just
starting.  What symptoms should I look for?  Would the wheel have some play
in it due to the bearing?
Thanks.
Ralph '87 300sdl

On Mon, Jan 18, 2016 at 5:22 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> No
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jan 18, 2016, at 3:32 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I had my wheels balanced today and the garage told me one of the rear
> wheel
> > bearings had some movement in it.  These rear bearings are adjustable,
> > right?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Ralph '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] 300 SDL rear wheel bearings

2016-01-18 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I had my wheels balanced today and the garage told me one of the rear wheel
bearings had some movement in it.  These rear bearings are adjustable,
right?

Thanks.
Ralph '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

2015-07-10 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Thanks, I appreciate all the help I can get.  Will be talking with him
today and passing on the constructive advice.

Ralph

On Fri, Jul 10, 2015 at 12:22 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Wow, I sure didn't expect that; being called an idiot!


 If you were doing your own wrenching, I apologize.  If you
 were using a 'trained' mechanic, then HE is the idiot!

 It was explained to me, back when my tranny needed servicing,
 that IF you take it out you ALWAYS replace those then-easy
 seals, because the parts and incremental labor are cheap.
 And you _don't_ want to have to pull it again the next year.
 Or month.

 After all, if one is already leaking the others may not be
 far behind.  The rear seal can be done in-car, so there's
 no need to do that one unless it _is_ leaking.

  He didn't seem to know how the pump could be removed.


 If I recall correctly, and yours is anything like mine,
 it's four bolts right on the front.


 -- Jim


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[MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

2015-07-09 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I have transmission fluid leaking from my '87 300 SDL, had a garage check
this out and they identified it was the Torque Converter leaking.  Replaced
the seal in the converter, now they state the front trans. pump is
leaking.  What are they up against Thanks, Ralph,
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Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

2015-07-09 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Wow, I sure didn't expect that; being called an idiot!  Sorry I don't have
the experience that you have, but thanks anyway for the nice advice.

Ralph

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 10:38 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I have transmission fluid leaking from my '87 300 SDL, had a garage check
 this out and they identified it was the Torque Converter leaking.
 Replaced
 the seal in the converter, now they state the front trans. pump is
 leaking.  What are they up against Thanks, Ralph,


 Idiocy?  It's more-or-less SOP, when dropping the tranny to
 replace a seal, to do all the ones that are now easy to reach.
 Front seal, pump seal, etc.  Maybe even consider engine's
 rear main seal at that time.  They're all staring right
 at you at that point.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

2015-07-09 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I did misunderstand the comment, sorry about that.  I don't have mercedes
mechanics in my area, and the M.B. dealer has told me that their staff are
younger then my car, so that about did it for me with the M.B. dealer doing
my work.  I have found a Volvo mechanic that does a good job for me but he
isn't an M.B. expert, by no means, but he does his best.  I work with what
I have available here.  When I am in Florida for the winter months, I have
lots of M.B. talent available, but not here in N.B. Canada.
My mechanic here is researching what is involved with replacing the seal
for this front pump in the transmission, so any advice would help.  I know
the M.B. transmissions are complicated and I am trying to assist him in
this job.
Thanks for any help.
Ralph

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 4:59 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Ralph,

 I think he was referring to the mechanic.

 If you're dropping the transmission, which one would have to do in order
 to check the TC, you would also expect to closely inspect the front (pump)
 cover as its exposed and easy to reach at that time. If there's the
 slightest hint of seepage/leakage, one would expect to replace the pump
 gaskets and seals. It's a quick, easy and inexpensive jib to do under those
 circumstances.

 I would be looking for another mechanic.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPad

  On Jul 9, 2015, at 3:57 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  Wow, I sure didn't expect that; being called an idiot!  Sorry I don't
 have
  the experience that you have, but thanks anyway for the nice advice.
 
  Ralph
 
  On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 10:38 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I have transmission fluid leaking from my '87 300 SDL, had a garage
 check
  this out and they identified it was the Torque Converter leaking.
  Replaced
  the seal in the converter, now they state the front trans. pump is
  leaking.  What are they up against Thanks, Ralph,
 
  Idiocy?  It's more-or-less SOP, when dropping the tranny to
  replace a seal, to do all the ones that are now easy to reach.
  Front seal, pump seal, etc.  Maybe even consider engine's
  rear main seal at that time.  They're all staring right
  at you at that point.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

2015-07-09 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
He called me and said that the front pump was leaking but he did not know
how much of a job it would be to replace.  He was going to do some research
and see what was involved.  I said I would check with the discussion group
and see if I could get any help for him.  He didn't seem to know how the
pump could be removed.

Thanks.
Ralph

On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 6:03 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Its a transmission, it shouldn't be any harder than working on any other
 transmission. When I first got into MB's back in 2002 I was convinced they
 were some kind of magic. Untrue, they're just cars and work like other
 cars. Higher quality parts produced (originally anyway) to a higher
 standard) but just cars.
 -Curt
   From: Ralph Robertson via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 9, 2015 5:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300 SDL Front Transmssion Pump leaking

 I did misunderstand the comment, sorry about that.  I don't have mercedes
 mechanics in my area, and the M.B. dealer has told me that their staff are
 younger then my car, so that about did it for me with the M.B. dealer doing
 my work.  I have found a Volvo mechanic that does a good job for me but he
 isn't an M.B. expert, by no means, but he does his best.  I work with what
 I have available here.  When I am in Florida for the winter months, I have
 lots of M.B. talent available, but not here in N.B. Canada.
 My mechanic here is researching what is involved with replacing the seal
 for this front pump in the transmission, so any advice would help.  I know
 the M.B. transmissions are complicated and I am trying to assist him in
 this job.
 Thanks for any help.
 Ralph

 On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 4:59 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  Ralph,
 
  I think he was referring to the mechanic.
 
  If you're dropping the transmission, which one would have to do in order
  to check the TC, you would also expect to closely inspect the front
 (pump)
  cover as its exposed and easy to reach at that time. If there's the
  slightest hint of seepage/leakage, one would expect to replace the pump
  gaskets and seals. It's a quick, easy and inexpensive jib to do under
 those
  circumstances.
 
  I would be looking for another mechanic.
 
  Dan
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
   On Jul 9, 2015, at 3:57 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
  
   Wow, I sure didn't expect that; being called an idiot!  Sorry I don't
  have
   the experience that you have, but thanks anyway for the nice advice.
  
   Ralph
  
   On Thu, Jul 9, 2015 at 10:38 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes 
   mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
  
   I have transmission fluid leaking from my '87 300 SDL, had a garage
  check
   this out and they identified it was the Torque Converter leaking.
   Replaced
   the seal in the converter, now they state the front trans. pump is
   leaking.  What are they up against Thanks, Ralph,
  
   Idiocy?  It's more-or-less SOP, when dropping the tranny to
   replace a seal, to do all the ones that are now easy to reach.
   Front seal, pump seal, etc.  Maybe even consider engine's
   rear main seal at that time.  They're all staring right
   at you at that point.
  
   -- Jim
  
  
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[MBZ] 84 300CD, Power Steering Level

2015-07-01 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
A simple question, I think; I read about the level for my power steering
pump which stated, in the tank of the pump, there is a plastic sleeve with
arrows on it that point downwards, the level should be at the point of
the arrows.  The sleeve in my pump tank has the arrows pointing
upwards!  What should be the correct level for the fluid, and is the level
of the fluid as an important point as with the Auto Tranny?
Thanks.

Ralph - '84 300CD
 '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] SSL Pahtz Cahr.

2015-04-05 Thread Ralph Robertson
Where is this located?  How do I contact this person?
Ralph

On Sat, Apr 4, 2015 at 6:33 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Salve.I picked up some manuals and CDs from the guy, John, who advertised
 the injection tester etc. on Craigslist.I looked at the car and it is bent,
 however it has a good 603 engine and the trans shifts smoothly (his
 words).He said that it could be had for $300.Any one need a 603.961 with a
 14 head and trans and bits and bobs and other stuff?

 Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.
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[MBZ] Switching differential in 300SDL

2015-03-29 Thread Ralph Robertson
I was led to believe that a bearing noise I was hearing in my 87 300SDL was
a problem in my differential.  I changed this item with a verified low
mileage differential from another 87 300SDL.  After the switch I now have a
severe vibration in the drive train.  Any idea what could have caused this?
Ralph, '87 300 SDL
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Re: [MBZ] Switching differential in 300SDL

2015-03-29 Thread Ralph Robertson
I specifically asked if they had taken the driveshaft apart and he said
they would have just put it to one side, out of the way while they worked
on the differential.
Ralph

On Sun, Mar 29, 2015 at 10:42 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
wrote:

 Did they by chance separate the driveshaft?

 Sent from my iPhone

  On Mar 29, 2015, at 7:08 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I was led to believe that a bearing noise I was hearing in my 87 300SDL
 was
  a problem in my differential.  I changed this item with a verified low
  mileage differential from another 87 300SDL.  After the switch I now
 have a
  severe vibration in the drive train.  Any idea what could have caused
 this?
  Ralph, '87 300 SDL
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300 SDL Differential

2015-03-18 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
My concern is getting the correct unit for my car.  I understand the
differential differs between gas  diesel, both in length and gear ratios.
Perhaps getting the vin off the used part first would provide this
information, if it is available.

Ralph

On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 3:56 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Try a local LKQ outlet, as they do a lot of national stuff for the
 insurance companies.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPad

  On Mar 17, 2015, at 3:28 PM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  That is going to me my choice, providing I can find one.  I am currently
 looking.
 
  Ralph
 
  On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
  Ralph,
 
  Swapping a good used pumpkin is far better than rebuilding, which is an
 art form that few can master. It's also quicker and probably cheaper.
 
  I would recommend swapping with a good used one.
 
  Dan
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
   On Mar 17, 2015, at 11:58 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
  
   I detected a noise I thought was coming perhaps from the front wheel
   bearings. Upon examination the garage informed me that the rear end
 was
   growling and it would appear it needs a rebuilding.  An alternative
 would
   be to purchase a rebuilt/used differential.  Which would be the best
 way to
   go with this issue?
   Thanks, Ralph '87 300SDL
  '84 300 CD
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300 SDL Differential

2015-03-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
That is going to me my choice, providing I can find one.  I am currently
looking.

Ralph

On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Ralph,

 Swapping a good used pumpkin is far better than rebuilding, which is an
 art form that few can master. It's also quicker and probably cheaper.

 I would recommend swapping with a good used one.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPad

  On Mar 17, 2015, at 11:58 AM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  I detected a noise I thought was coming perhaps from the front wheel
  bearings. Upon examination the garage informed me that the rear end was
  growling and it would appear it needs a rebuilding.  An alternative would
  be to purchase a rebuilt/used differential.  Which would be the best way
 to
  go with this issue?
  Thanks, Ralph '87 300SDL
 '84 300 CD
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[MBZ] '87 300 SDL Differential

2015-03-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I detected a noise I thought was coming perhaps from the front wheel
bearings. Upon examination the garage informed me that the rear end was
growling and it would appear it needs a rebuilding.  An alternative would
be to purchase a rebuilt/used differential.  Which would be the best way to
go with this issue?
Thanks, Ralph '87 300SDL
'84 300 CD
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[MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting

2014-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however, when
putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear rather
harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.  Quite a
difference in shifting from the normal forward gears shifting on the go.
Can this be addressed thru some adjustment?
Thanks.
Ralph '87 300SDL
  84 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting

2014-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up.  The lurch is really in
the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
The reverse also takes a bit to engage, slower than first gear.
Ralph

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com wrote:

 My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however, when
 putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear rather
 harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.


 Idle speed?  The SDL is set to idle high, mechanically. The EDS is
 what drags it down to 'normal'.  Any problem with the wiring, or
 the actuator, or the power supply through the overvoltage protection
 relay/crowbar and it idles high, and lurches into gear.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting

2014-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
what is the normal idle speed?  I will check again when it's warm.  It
doesn't sound like a fast idle.

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 H - no wonder it lurches - 7000 RPM idle -

 RB


 On 17/10/2014 3:40 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:

 Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up.  The lurch is really
 in
 the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
 The reverse also takes a bit to engage, slower than first gear.
 Ralph

 On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however,
 when

 putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear rather
 harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.

  Idle speed?  The SDL is set to idle high, mechanically. The EDS is
 what drags it down to 'normal'.  Any problem with the wiring, or
 the actuator, or the power supply through the overvoltage protection
 relay/crowbar and it idles high, and lurches into gear.

 -- Jim





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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting

2014-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
sorry, reading it wrong, it is 700, not 7000.
Ralph

On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:48 PM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 what is the normal idle speed?  I will check again when it's warm.  It
 doesn't sound like a fast idle.

 On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 wrote:

 H - no wonder it lurches - 7000 RPM idle -

 RB


 On 17/10/2014 3:40 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:

 Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up.  The lurch is really
 in
 the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
 The reverse also takes a bit to engage, slower than first gear.
 Ralph

 On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however,
 when

 putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear
 rather
 harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.

  Idle speed?  The SDL is set to idle high, mechanically. The EDS is
 what drags it down to 'normal'.  Any problem with the wiring, or
 the actuator, or the power supply through the overvoltage protection
 relay/crowbar and it idles high, and lurches into gear.

 -- Jim






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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting

2014-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
Yes, 650 -700 cold.  Is that unusual?

Ralph


On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:55 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 700?

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Ralph Robertson via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 Cc: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Friday, October 17, 2014 4:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL transmission shifting


  what is the normal idle speed?  I will check again when it's warm.  It
 doesn't sound like a fast idle.

 On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 wrote:

  H - no wonder it lurches - 7000 RPM idle -

 RB


 On 17/10/2014 3:40 PM, Ralph Robertson via Mercedes wrote:

  Just checked the idle speed; 6500/7000 at start up.  The lurch is really
 in
 the reverse gear, first gear is not very hard at all, just the reverse.
 The reverse also takes a bit to engage, slower than first gear.
 Ralph

 On Fri, Oct 17, 2014 at 9:54 AM, Jim Cathey jim.cathey...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  My 300SDL transmission shifts very nicely thru all the gears, however,

 when

  putting the car in gear originally from neutral it goes into gear
 rather
 harsh, also, when I put the car into reverse; the same thing.

  Idle speed?  The SDL is set to idle high, mechanically. The EDS is

 what drags it down to 'normal'.  Any problem with the wiring, or
 the actuator, or the power supply through the overvoltage protection
 relay/crowbar and it idles high, and lurches into gear.

 -- Jim





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[MBZ] Fwd: '84 300CD Auto Transmission leaking

2014-08-28 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
-- Forwarded message --
From: Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com
Date: Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 6:37 AM
Subject: '84 300CD Auto Transmission leaking
To: merce...@mercedesmailinglist.com


I am planning on flushing and replacing the ATF and filter on my 300CD and
was wondering if changing the leaking seal(s) at the same time would be a
good thing to do.  Is this a complicated exercise and should only be done
by a transmission specialist, or could it be done by the same mechanic
doing the flushing, etc.
I have noticed the trans. shifting roughly lately and figured an ATF change
and flush would correct this, and the trans. has leaked slightly for a long
time and that would be good to fix at the same time.
Thanks.
Ralph '84 300CD
  '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] headlight brightness, 123 126

2014-08-17 Thread Ralph Robertson via Mercedes
I have a '84 300CD and a '87 300SDL and both vehicles' lights are not
bright enough for night driving especially on back roads.  I have tried
upgrading the bulbs for brighter ones, but nothing yet is satisfactory.
Any suggestions for making these safer?  Thanks.
Ralph
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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-07-12 Thread Ralph Robertson
My problem seems to be much more of an electrical issue than just the
locking vacuum pump.  I replaced the pump with a used one but the fuse blew
again. Then disconnected the electrical antennae, but it blew again. Then I
did the same with the trunk light, and the front overhead lights, but in
time the fuse kept blowing.  It is strange in that I seem to be able to
replace the fuse, everything works fine for quite a while, then it just
pops again.  Occasionally it blows when I replace it like in a direct short
situation; if I leave it alone for a while, then replace the fuse, it will
work again for several weeks at a time, before it will blow again for no
apparent reason.  It is like there is a direct short somewhere and it
only blows when the timing is right, like a bare wire touching occasionally.
When the fuse does pop, I can tell, as the red lights over the rear view
mirror for the seat belts will continually blink on and off when I am
driving.  And of course the ant. won't go up or down and the central
locking system won't work.
I'm at a loss with this one.
Ralph '87 300SDL
  '84  300CD


On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 10:10 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 My central locking system blew a fuse and I have to manually open a door,
 with the key, and pull up the lock buttons to open them, and reverse, to
 lock the car.  When I try to replace the fuse, the alarm sounds until I
 remove the fuse again.  How can I replace the fuse without driving
 everybody nuts with the horn blowing?  I tried even removing the actual
 horn fuse, but the alarm went off anyway.
 Ralph '87 300SDL

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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-07-12 Thread Ralph Robertson
Re the interior lights, I had put the switch for the interior lights in the
off position so that NO interior lights would  come on when the doors
were opened, and they have been that way for about 3 months.  In the
meantime the fuse has blown about 10 times. Could it still be the timer
relay?  I will remove the troublesome fuse right away before anything worse
happens.  I will also explore the other suggestions to see if I can find
any bare wires.
Thanks.
Ralph


On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 9:31 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 No, the timer relay for the interior lights is bad.  Probably sucks the
 battery flat if the car isn't run daily as well.

 Also check the wiring for the trunk light, it's notorious for rubbing
 through at the deck lid hinge and intermittenly shorting out.  Don't keep
 sticking fuses in, the wiring is going to melt sooner or later and turn a
 simple job into a real mess -- we did this on my brother's SDL a few years
 ago.  Had to pull the rear seat and a bunch of trim panels to get to the
 wiring harness and replace a bunch of wires that were now shorted together
 after the insulation melted.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-07-12 Thread Ralph Robertson
Okay, that does sound like a likely source. Where do I find the timer relay
and how much of a problem is replacing it? Thanks.

Ralph


On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 1:49 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 The switch turns off the lights at the lamp, the relay is still operating,
 as is the locking pump.  The relay also operates the seat belt reminder
 lamps, which is why I suspect it's bad.


 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL Transmission

2014-07-02 Thread Ralph Robertson
This M1 ATF, I take is Mobil 1 ATF?  Is there a specific no. to ask for?  I
will try that first with a complete change, flush and filter change.
Thanks.
Ralph


On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:

 When I bought my '87 300TD, it shifted very poorly, usually late.

 About 10k miles after changing fluid/filter and using M1, the transmission
 shifted much much better.  The shift points were far more consistent.  I
 then adjusted the Bowden cable, and it was nearly perfect.

 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC

 On Jul 1, 2014 10:57 AM, Dwight Giles dwight.gi...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  Yes. Fred recommended that for my 300CD   I did that  after a couple
  thousand miles the flaring has subsided  up shifts are smoother. I was
 not
  being facetious in my earlier post about M1 ATF.
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[MBZ] '87 300SDL Transmission

2014-07-01 Thread Ralph Robertson
Noticed a possible problem with my '87 SDL transmission yesterday.  Slowed
down for a yield sign and slowed to about 15-20mph and then proceeded to
drive away, but the car acted like it was in neutral.  Several seconds it
did nothing but rev up without engaging.  Shifted down to drive 3 and it
went into gear, then I put the lever back to drive and it was back to
normal.  Only did it once.  Checked fluid, all okay!  Any idea what this
may be?

Ralph '84 300CD
  '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] '87300SDL vibration

2014-04-02 Thread Ralph Robertson
Have tired everything to locate vibration, would a garage that had a
dynamometer
be able to duplicate the vibration and locate where it is coming from?  If
so, does anyone know of such a garage in central Florida?

Ralph '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-03-22 Thread Ralph Robertson
Hi all, as a follow up to the above subject, I had the driver's door lock
repaired, and it still is quite sticky and looks like it requires a new
cylinder as the tumblers seem worn.  However, today my fuse that controls
the central locking system, blew again, and I could not replace it as it
just popped again.  Therefore there is an obvious short somewhere.  Anyone
have any ideas where I would look for this issue??
Thanks, Ralph, '87 300SDL
 '84 300CD


On Fri, Feb 28, 2014 at 3:53 PM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks, I was able to re-boot the system doing the fuse replacement
 procedure and then unlocking and re-locking the door.  I had to go to a
 deserted area to avoid driving everyone crazy with the alarm, but it worked
 and I didn't have to disconnect the alarm box. However, there are 3 boxes,
 as I previously said, one Becker and 2 Bosch.  The Becker is on the left
 side and the 2 Bosch are on the right.  One of them larger then the other,
 but I don't know which one is for the alarm, nor do I know what the
 remaining one is for.
 It would just be nice to know which one is the alarm, at this point.
 Ralph


 On Fri, Feb 28, 2014 at 1:54 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi and thanks for the replies.  I checked out the alarm boxes under the
 passenger side and there are 3 boxes there.  One is  a Becker's, and 2
 Bosch.  Which is for the alarm? There is a warning not to mess with the
 red
 plug as it is the airbag control and may cause harm!

 Thanks.
 Ralph, '87 300SDL


 You can rule out the Becker.
 You can rule out the airbag one.
 the one that is left is the alarm.


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[MBZ] A/C air filter, 126 model

2014-03-07 Thread Ralph Robertson
Is there an air conditioner,  air (dust) filter, for the '87 300SDL, A/C
system?  I have some type of sponge particles coming out of the dash air
vent, but I cannot find where a filter might be a part of this vehicle's
A/C. system.  It appears that in the 124, 1984-1995 vehicles, there is a
filter replacement available, but not for the 126.

Ralph '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-02-28 Thread Ralph Robertson
Hi and thanks for the replies.  I checked out the alarm boxes under the
passenger side and there are 3 boxes there.  One is  a Becker's, and 2
Bosch.  Which is for the alarm? There is a warning not to mess with the red
plug as it is the airbag control and may cause harm!

Thanks.
Ralph, '87 300SDL


On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 8:51 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 My central locking system blew a fuse and I have to manually open a door,
 with the key, and pull up the lock buttons to open them, and reverse, to
 lock the car.  When I try to replace the fuse, the alarm sounds until I
 remove the fuse again.  How can I replace the fuse without driving
 everybody nuts with the horn blowing?  I tried even removing the actual
 horn fuse, but the alarm went off anyway.
 Ralph '87 300SDL
 ___



 Put the fuse in and let er rip. (the alarm system)  Lock the driver's
 door, then unlock the driver's door.  that should shut off the alarm. If
 the alarm is still squawking after that, then you might want to pull the
 fuse, unplug the alarm brain (passenger side right side panel in front of
 the RF door) then put the fuse back in.



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Re: [MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-02-28 Thread Ralph Robertson
Thanks, I was able to re-boot the system doing the fuse replacement
procedure and then unlocking and re-locking the door.  I had to go to a
deserted area to avoid driving everyone crazy with the alarm, but it worked
and I didn't have to disconnect the alarm box. However, there are 3 boxes,
as I previously said, one Becker and 2 Bosch.  The Becker is on the left
side and the 2 Bosch are on the right.  One of them larger then the other,
but I don't know which one is for the alarm, nor do I know what the
remaining one is for.
It would just be nice to know which one is the alarm, at this point.
Ralph


On Fri, Feb 28, 2014 at 1:54 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi and thanks for the replies.  I checked out the alarm boxes under the
 passenger side and there are 3 boxes there.  One is  a Becker's, and 2
 Bosch.  Which is for the alarm? There is a warning not to mess with the
 red
 plug as it is the airbag control and may cause harm!

 Thanks.
 Ralph, '87 300SDL


 You can rule out the Becker.
 You can rule out the airbag one.
 the one that is left is the alarm.


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[MBZ] central locking system - '87 300SDL

2014-02-26 Thread Ralph Robertson
My central locking system blew a fuse and I have to manually open a door,
with the key, and pull up the lock buttons to open them, and reverse, to
lock the car.  When I try to replace the fuse, the alarm sounds until I
remove the fuse again.  How can I replace the fuse without driving
everybody nuts with the horn blowing?  I tried even removing the actual
horn fuse, but the alarm went off anyway.
Ralph '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] 300SDL Door locking system

2013-12-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
I noticed this morning that my driver's door no longer will lock the car.
The key just moves to the right without any action.  The trunk lock will
still lock and unlock the car though.  I can unlock the driver's door with
the key, but cannot lock it again.  I have to go to the trunk, unlock all
the car's doors, then relock again at the trunk, for the car to be locked.
The passenger door still works fine for all the locks.  The vacuum pump
still kicks in when I lock and unlock the car.  The fuses are all okay
Is this just a connection inside the driver's door?
Thanks.
Ralph '87 300 SDL
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Re: [MBZ] Ever have a driveshaft snap in half?

2013-12-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
I will get the front end checked over again for wear, etc. and hope for the
best.  The front rotors have been turned a few years ago, but not
replaced.  That could be the culprit.  Will do that as well.

Thanks for all the advice.

Ralph '87 300SDL
  '84 300 CD


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 5:34 AM, John Reames jwrea...@comcast.net wrote:

 Could be a bad rotor; I had some that looked fine but was a layer of good
 metal over a sheet of rust...

 --
 John W Reames
 jream...@verizon.net
 Home: +14106646986
 Mobile: +14437915905

 On Dec 17, 2013, at 10:32, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

  Ralph Robertson wrote:
  still shakes the steering wheel at speeds above 55mph, very smooth below
  this speed.
 
  Could be a loose wheel bearing, steering component, or front suspension
 component. But first, swap the front and rear wheels and see what happens.
 
  Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Door locking system

2013-12-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
When I turn the key to lock the driver's door, it seems like it is turning
without contacting anything else.  If the car is locked, via the trunk,
then the key will unlock the driver's door, but none of the other doors.  I
have to use either the passenger door to unlock the rest of the car, or the
trunk.  It also does not activate the vacuum that is in the trunk.  If I
either unlock or lock the car via either the passenger door, or the trunk,
then the central locking system works and the vacuum pump kicks in.

Raph


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 9:16 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Ralph,

 Clarify something if you would:

 Are you saying turning the driver's door lock with the key doesn't
 mechanically lock/unlock the door, or the mechanical part works but the
 central locking system doesn't respond?

 Dan


 On Dec 21, 2013, at 8:28 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

  I noticed this morning that my driver's door no longer will lock the car.
  The key just moves to the right without any action.  The trunk lock will
  still lock and unlock the car though.  I can unlock the driver's door
 with
  the key, but cannot lock it again.  I have to go to the trunk, unlock all
  the car's doors, then relock again at the trunk, for the car to be
 locked.
  The passenger door still works fine for all the locks.  The vacuum pump
  still kicks in when I lock and unlock the car.  The fuses are all okay
  Is this just a connection inside the driver's door?
  Thanks.
  Ralph '87 300 SDL
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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Door locking system qa9uqavy

2013-12-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
ok, that is the logical area where the problem exists.  Probably
disconnected, somehow, from  the locking mechanism.

 Thanks, Ralph


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 9:18 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Ralph Robertson wrote:

 Is this just a connection inside the driver's door?


 So everything works except locking with the key in the driver's door, and
 it
 doesn't lock the driver's door or any other door?
 I think you'll find the problem right on the back of the lock cylinder, or
 wherever the locking rod connects next.

 Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Door locking system

2013-12-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
Thanks for all the info.  I will get at it right away and hopefully I can
fix it.

Ralph


On Sat, Dec 21, 2013 at 11:21 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 If there are no mechanical issues I've seen the case where
 the logic in the vacuum pump gets confused, and resetting it
 (by unplugging for awhile) brings it back to normality.  But
 it sounds like you have a mechanical problem.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Ever have a driveshaft snap in half?

2013-12-17 Thread Ralph Robertson
This topic made me resurrect my vibration/wobble problem with my '87
300SDL.  Ever since I bought this car, I have had this problem and 5 years
later I still have it.  I have replaced everything I can think of in the
drive train and still have the shimmy.  Although it seems a lot better than
original, and it should be!  Is there anything in the diferential that
could cause this?  Even had the rear half axles replaced.  My latest
effort, the mechanic made some adjustments to the torgue for the rear axles
and suggested it may have a differential issue.  Is there a possibility a
previous car accident may have caused this?  I am rather frustrated at this
minor shimmy after putting all this money and effort into this, but it
still shakes the steering wheel at speeds above 55mph, very smooth below
this speed.
parts addressed; rear sway bar links., rear axles, drive shaft
balanced,all flex discs, s-support, rubber mounts, motor mounts,tires,wheel
balances,rear springs, transmission output shaft bearing.
The shake can be felt in the steering wheel, just like wheel balance.
Starts around 55mph, slakens off around 60, then comes back about 65 and
seems to come and go at all speeds above that.  Was quite strong, but now a
minor shake but still aggravating on a long trip. Tires all seem to be
wearing evenly, no scalloping.
The car is in such great shape I hate to change it, and would rather fix it
than swap.
Ralph '87 300SDL
  '85 300 CD


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 1:06 AM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 No, but I did replace a drive shaft in the '76 300D when the u-joint in the
 middle started making noises and was notchy. Didn't want it to break while
 driving ;-)


 On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 2:24 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

  My brother did. Last night. Driving back from a rental property in
  Worcester (Wustah). Pulling away from toll booth, most horrible scraping,
  grating noise I've ever heard come from a car.
  Took 8 hrs to get home between all the tow trucks.
  Some background:
  89 300TE.
  He had front flex disk replaced a couple months ago. Mechanic said that
  shaft was rusted together in center and therefore couldn't be compressed
  enough to get new flex disk in. He had to undo motor mounts to push
 engine
  forward enough so that flex disc could fit.
  Guess he had it coming.
 
 
 


 --
 OK Don
 They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
 safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
 in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
 - Benjamin Franklin 1789
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Ever have a driveshaft snap in half?

2013-12-17 Thread Ralph Robertson
One thing I neglected to mention in previous message; when the mechanic was
doing his latest check, he had the car rear wheels jacked up and then put
in gear and revved it up.  The rear wheels could be seen moving slightly up
and down and then he made some adjustments to the axle torque which he said
would reduce the bounce. He also thought that this bounce could maybe be
felt in the steering wheel as well. I had told him the axles were replaced
and that is when he mentioned a differntial issue that would cause the
axles to bounce slightly.  Is this possible?
I will explore further the front end issues mentioned below.
Ralph

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 10:32 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Ralph Robertson wrote:

 still shakes the steering wheel at speeds above 55mph, very smooth below
 this speed.


 Could be a loose wheel bearing, steering component, or front suspension
 component. But first, swap the front and rear wheels and see what happens.

 Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] vibes (was: Re: Ever have a driveshaft snap in half?)

2013-12-17 Thread Ralph Robertson
I had Michelin on the car when I bought it, and I changed to 4 new Michelin
as part of numerous things trying to get rid of the shimmy.  I also changed
all the wheels and tires from my other M.B. with no effect.


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:26 PM, ernest breakfield 
erne...@backyardengineering.org wrote:

 tires can be out of round and/or out of true and still be balanced. these
 perfectly balanced tires will still give you vibes.
 (i once bought 5 wheels and tires off of a friends new J**p just to
 get the wheels, only to find that only 2 of the brand-new original low-end
 Goodyears on them were round and true; there was no way to put any 4 of
 those on the ground without getting shimmy, shakes and/or vibes.)

 what kind of tires did you have on there when this was first noticed?
 and what kind of tires do you have on there now?

 sounds like you already know you have at least one tire (on the rear)
 that's out of round; i'd suspect that since you feel the vibes in the
 steering wheel you also have one (or more) that's out of round and/or out
 of true on the front.
 get them up in the air and watch both the tires and the wheels while
 they spin to see i they even spin roundly and without any side-to-side
 wiggling.


 cheers!
 e

 On 17/Dec/13 05:47, Ralph Robertson wrote:

 This topic made me resurrect my vibration/wobble problem with my '87
 300SDL.  Ever since I bought this car, I have had this problem and 5 years
 later I still have it.  I have replaced everything I can think of in the
 drive train and still have the shimmy.  Although it seems a lot better
 than
 original, and it should be!  Is there anything in the diferential that
 could cause this?  Even had the rear half axles replaced.  My latest
 effort, the mechanic made some adjustments to the torgue for the rear
 axles
 and suggested it may have a differential issue.  Is there a possibility a
 previous car accident may have caused this?  I am rather frustrated at
 this
 minor shimmy after putting all this money and effort into this, but it
 still shakes the steering wheel at speeds above 55mph, very smooth below
 this speed.
 parts addressed; rear sway bar links., rear axles, drive shaft
 balanced,all flex discs, s-support, rubber mounts, motor
 mounts,tires,wheel
 balances,rear springs, transmission output shaft bearing.
 The shake can be felt in the steering wheel, just like wheel balance.
 Starts around 55mph, slakens off around 60, then comes back about 65 and
 seems to come and go at all speeds above that.  Was quite strong, but now
 a
 minor shake but still aggravating on a long trip. Tires all seem to be
 wearing evenly, no scalloping.
 The car is in such great shape I hate to change it, and would rather fix
 it
 than swap.
 Ralph '87 300SDL
'85 300 CD



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Re: [MBZ] MB factoid

2013-09-13 Thread Ralph Robertson
I got the part from Rusty, $316. and $105 for installation.  The local
garage doing the installation told me they could only find one in all of US
and it was +1,000.  I called Rusty and told the garage I can get it for
them, thanks to Rusty.
I still haven't figured out where it is located though.  The old one when
taken out looked like new,  I sent it back re core charge.
Ralph

On Thu, Sep 12, 2013 at 12:21 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Ralph, what  was your bill for R  R of the cruise cont. amp?  $300+?

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com

 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2013 6:42 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB factoid


  Where is it located in the '87 SDL?  Looked for it everywhere, could not
 find it.  Had a garage in Florida replace it, and they never told me where
 it was on the car!  Sure is nice with it working again.
 Ralph

 On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 8:19 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

  Yes, compared to accessing the cruise amp in the SDL, the one in the
 300D
 was VERY easily accessible - sitting up in driver seat with cold air in
 my
 face.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick 
 psf...@earthlink.net
 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB factoid



 Easily accessible is a relative term.  It's not bad if you are  young,

 agile, and  have eagle vision.  Being well past 50, not so  flexible
 anymore, and blind without the correct strength of bifocal or  cheater
 unless I don't have my contacts in (at which point I can  only see about
 six inches), that amp is a pain.

 Better than the evaporator I still need to put in the 87 300D though.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] MB factoid

2013-09-12 Thread Ralph Robertson
Where is it located in the '87 SDL?  Looked for it everywhere, could not
find it.  Had a garage in Florida replace it, and they never told me where
it was on the car!  Sure is nice with it working again.
 Ralph

On Wed, Sep 11, 2013 at 8:19 PM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Yes, compared to accessing the cruise amp in the SDL, the one in the 300D
 was VERY easily accessible - sitting up in driver seat with cold air in my
 face.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 8:05 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] MB factoid



 Easily accessible is a relative term.  It's not bad if you are  young,
 agile, and  have eagle vision.  Being well past 50, not so  flexible
 anymore, and blind without the correct strength of bifocal or  cheater
 unless I don't have my contacts in (at which point I can  only see about
 six inches), that amp is a pain.

 Better than the evaporator I still need to put in the 87 300D though.

 Peter

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[MBZ] '87 300SDL A/C Blowing fuses

2013-08-05 Thread Ralph Robertson
My SDL blew 2 fuses yesterday when using the A/C/  The fan just stopped
running and heat started coming in the vents.  Even when I shut off the
vents the heat still pours out of the defroster vents.  Changed the first
fuse and after another hour or so of running fine, the same thing happened.

Any ideas on issue??

Ralph, '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL A/C Blowing fuses

2013-08-05 Thread Ralph Robertson
Just checked out the fuse holder, there is not any distortion at all,
everything looks good in there.  Have another fuse working, at the moment,
will hope for the best.

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Re: [MBZ] Water leaking into trunk- '87 300SDL

2013-07-30 Thread Ralph Robertson
New seal will be ordered right away,   It's worth it. Thanks .

Ralph


On Mon, Jul 29, 2013 at 11:46 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 before applying a coat of the flowable silicon sealant,


 Use weatherstrip cement.

 -- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Water leaking into trunk- '87 300SDL

2013-07-29 Thread Ralph Robertson
checked trunk seal, appeared good, however it was easily removed, and
pulled out of groove without any difficulty, so it would seem that it is
not sealed good enough for water.  Wondering if I have to remove old glue
on the rubber before applying a coat of the flowable silicon sealant, and
if so, how would I remove that glue without damaging the seal/rubber.
 There are no cracks or tears in the rubber seal and it appears in good
shape so should be able to simply re-glue and install again.

Ralph


On Sun, Jul 28, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 thanks, will have the seal checked carefully.  The water seems to come in
 at the top of the trunk, right across the whole trunk.  Possibly even from
 the ledge under the window, but it could be running from the trunk lid
 across to this ledge.  Will check it out.
 Ralph


 On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 10:26 AM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Check your trunk seal.  Clean it well, make sure it is not cracked or
 broken where it attaches to the lip.

 --R



 On 7/26/13 10:04 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

 I have an '87 300SDL that has a peculiar leak in the trunk area.  When
 the
 car is on a grade, with the trunk on the downhill and it rains hard, the
 trunk get wet.  However, if it is on the grade with the trunk on the
 uphill, no water gets in regardless of how hard it rains.  Does this
 sound
 familiar to any of you??

 I tried putting some flowable sealant around the back window, but that
 did
 not help.

 Thanks

 Ralph '84 300CD
   '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] Water leaking into trunk- '87 300SDL

2013-07-28 Thread Ralph Robertson
thanks, will have the seal checked carefully.  The water seems to come in
at the top of the trunk, right across the whole trunk.  Possibly even from
the ledge under the window, but it could be running from the trunk lid
across to this ledge.  Will check it out.
Ralph


On Fri, Jul 26, 2013 at 10:26 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Check your trunk seal.  Clean it well, make sure it is not cracked or
 broken where it attaches to the lip.

 --R



 On 7/26/13 10:04 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

 I have an '87 300SDL that has a peculiar leak in the trunk area.  When the
 car is on a grade, with the trunk on the downhill and it rains hard, the
 trunk get wet.  However, if it is on the grade with the trunk on the
 uphill, no water gets in regardless of how hard it rains.  Does this sound
 familiar to any of you??

 I tried putting some flowable sealant around the back window, but that did
 not help.

 Thanks

 Ralph '84 300CD
   '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] Water leaking into trunk- '87 300SDL

2013-07-26 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have an '87 300SDL that has a peculiar leak in the trunk area.  When the
car is on a grade, with the trunk on the downhill and it rains hard, the
trunk get wet.  However, if it is on the grade with the trunk on the
uphill, no water gets in regardless of how hard it rains.  Does this sound
familiar to any of you??

I tried putting some flowable sealant around the back window, but that did
not help.

Thanks

Ralph '84 300CD
 '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] A/C conversion fittings for R12 to R134a

2013-07-19 Thread Ralph Robertson
I am looking for the conversion fittings for a 1984 300CD air conditioning
system that was originally R12 but converted to R134a.  The system was
converted and filled with R134a but the garage did not put the conversion
fittings on the vehicle.  They filled the system by using a set of R12
valves/hoses.  I now want to have the system checked and refilled but
cannot locate the fittings required to allow the R134a connections to
connect to the vehicle's A/C system.
Can anyone provide me with a supplier where I can acquire these fittings??
This was done on my vehicle in 2007 and has worked fine since then, but now
my A/C is not putting out the cold air originally obtained.
Can anyone help.  Thanks
Ralph
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[MBZ] Wheel Balancing -- '87 300SDL

2013-05-02 Thread Ralph Robertson
I am having problems getting my wheels balanced on my SDL.  Have had them
balanced, on the car, off the car, and with road force machines, but they
still become unbalanced quickly.  I am assuming it is the balance as the
wobble/vibration is felt in the steering wheel mostly.  What else would
cause this other than balancing.
I recently installed a new set of Michelins as the road force balancer
indicated it was the tires themselves.  However after less than 1 year I
again have strong indications at all speeds over 50 mph.
I am currently returning from Florida and I have the car well loaded down
with a lot of weight in the back seat and trunk, and was wondering if this
extra weight could be a part of the problem, indicating something other
than balance.

Ralph, '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD
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[MBZ] High speed wheel balancing

2013-03-19 Thread Ralph Robertson
I am looking for the name of the garage near/in Leesburg, fl. that does
high speed wheel balancing on the vehicle.  I had the name and address of
this garage a while back and have misplaced it.  Can anyone help with
this??

Thanks, Ralph
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[MBZ] Squealing brakes

2012-10-05 Thread Ralph Robertson
The rear brake pads on both of my cars; '84 300CD, and 87 300SDL squeal
when stopping.  Not always, but just enough to be very annoying.  Had them
checked, and the pads are not worn down.  Any suggestions on how to clear
this up??

Thanks.

Ralph
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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks, 1987 300SDL 603 engine

2012-08-16 Thread Ralph Robertson
Thanks for your reply.  I have ordered a new pump thru Mercedes and a
gasket as well.  I will take everything you mentioned into the task and
pass on all this info to the mechanic.  Thanks again.
Ralph

On Wed, Aug 15, 2012 at 2:58 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Ralph, sorry for the tardy response.

 Vacuum pump: order gasket as well as pump, Pierburg is the OE maker.
 Improved pump design won't dump parts into chain gallery. You will need to
 inspect the face of the pump driver (attached to injection pump timer) for
 smooth; your finger nail should not feel any roughness or grove. If the
 face is worn, you will need to replace the whole timer assembly, which
 means injection pump must come off.

 Six bolts for the vacuum pump torque is 15 NM. You may need to rotate the
 engine to a low spot on the drive face to help with tightening down the
 pump.

 I have not had time to verify the chain tension device torque, from memory
 it is 70 NM.
  --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD

 Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 #2--Just checked it out, there are no screws on the cover of the VP, so I
 should order a new pump instead of just a gasket for this issue. Anything
 scary in changing out this part? Does the fact it is leaking, indicate a
 bad pump??

 #1 - Are you saying that replacing the seal here one must be aware of the
 torque needed? What is the torque for this part? I will pass it on.
 Thanks, Ralph

 On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 8:57 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:

  #1 is easy, need to know the torque value.
 
  #2 may be a bad vacuum pump. If the cover plate is crimped on, with no
  screws, you have the bad kind which can fail catastrophically and dump
  bearings into the timing chain area and destroy the engine if the chain
  breaks.
  --
  Max Dillon
  Charleston SC
  '95 E300
  '87 300TD
 
  Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I have several leaks on my '87 SDL and had a local garage try to
 determine
  where they are coming from. They have identified the following areas:
  1. Timing chain tensioner seal
  2. vacuum booster on timing chain
  What kind of problems am I facing if I let them attempt to correct these
  leaks. I may be better off putting up with the leaks.
  I considered having the timing chain changed if these leak repairs
 required
  major parts removal from front of engine, but I had the chain stretch
  checked about 3 months ago, and it was fine, so I don't want to get into
  that if not necessary.
  I don't think this mechanic has done much work on the 603 engine, so that
  worries me.
 
  Ralph '84 300 CD
  '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] oil leaks, 1987 300SDL 603 engine

2012-08-14 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have several leaks on my '87 SDL and had a local garage try to determine
where they are coming from.  They have identified the following areas:
1. Timing chain tensioner seal
2. vacuum booster on timing chain
What kind of problems am I facing if I let them attempt to correct these
leaks.  I may be better off putting up with the leaks.
I considered having the timing chain changed if these leak repairs required
major parts removal from front of engine, but I had the chain stretch
checked about 3 months ago, and it was fine, so I don't want to get into
that if not necessary.
I don't think this mechanic has done much work on the 603 engine, so that
worries me.

Ralph  '84 300 CD
  '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] oil leaks, 1987 300SDL 603 engine

2012-08-14 Thread Ralph Robertson
#2--Just checked it out, there are no screws on the cover of the VP, so I
should order a new pump instead of just a gasket for this issue.  Anything
scary in changing out this part?  Does the fact it is leaking, indicate a
bad pump??

#1 - Are you saying that replacing the seal here one must be aware of the
torque needed?  What is the torque for this part?  I will pass it on.
Thanks, Ralph

On Tue, Aug 14, 2012 at 8:57 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 #1 is easy, need to know the torque value.

 #2 may be a bad vacuum pump. If the cover plate is crimped on, with no
 screws, you have the bad kind which can fail catastrophically and dump
 bearings into the timing chain area and destroy the engine if the chain
 breaks.
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD

 Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have several leaks on my '87 SDL and had a local garage try to determine
 where they are coming from. They have identified the following areas:
 1. Timing chain tensioner seal
 2. vacuum booster on timing chain
 What kind of problems am I facing if I let them attempt to correct these
 leaks. I may be better off putting up with the leaks.
 I considered having the timing chain changed if these leak repairs required
 major parts removal from front of engine, but I had the chain stretch
 checked about 3 months ago, and it was fine, so I don't want to get into
 that if not necessary.
 I don't think this mechanic has done much work on the 603 engine, so that
 worries me.

 Ralph '84 300 CD
 '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] 1984 300CD, A/C odor

2012-06-30 Thread Ralph Robertson
Is there a filter in the air system that can be cleaned or replaced to
correct minor odors from the A/C?
I have tried several methods to spray air cleaner, etc., thru the intake
but they only help temporarily.  Cannot seem to locate any filter system.
Thanks.
Ralph '84 300CD
 '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] Is it bad for my w123 300DT to go 80mph

2012-05-26 Thread Ralph Robertson
I gave it a try yesterday, hit a fairly steep hill, shifted to 3rd. and
floored it.  A lot of real black smoke appeared from the exhaust but I kept
it down.  The next hill, I tried it again and no smoke at all.  I had
noticed in the past, that everytime I hit passing gear,  I would produce a
lot of black smoke exhaust, so I have to assume this is cleaning itself
out.  Thanks.
Ralph

On Thu, May 24, 2012 at 9:30 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Drive them hard and fast.  No problemo.

 --R


 On 5/24/12 7:15 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

 Another thought about older MB's; 124's and 126's., I have an 84 300CD and
 a '87 300SDL, with fairly high mileage on both.  Since I have owned them I
 have not driven them hard at all, barely ever hitting 75mph.  Would it be
 bad for the engines to just start driving them faster and harder??  Should
 there be a breakin period, say driving a little faster gradually?  Just
 wanting to do the best for these beauties.
 Ralph '84 300CD
  '87 300SDL

 On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 10:24 PM, OK Donokd...@gmail.com  wrote:

 Indeed - you will learn if there is abnormal wear in the engine, and get a
 feel for how much you could extend the change interval. My analysis
 results
 are coming back well within normal limits with M1 running at least 12,000
 miles on all the engines. Granted, I'm not running an OM61x engine
 anymore
 though ---

 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 10:37 PM, Craigdiese...@pisquared.net  wrote:

 On Tue, 22 May 2012 20:14:20 -0700 (PDT) Dimitri Seretakis
 dsereta...@yahoo.com  wrote:

 Does oil analysis provide any benefit to those who change it every 3-4K
 miles? I use M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck on my 240D and change it every
 4K miles. I guess an oil analysis would tell me if I can extend that
 interval?

 Yup, sure would. You might be able to extend your oil change interval
 and
 save money.


 Craig

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 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] Is it bad for my w123 300DT to go 80mph

2012-05-24 Thread Ralph Robertson
Another thought about older MB's; 124's and 126's., I have an 84 300CD and
a '87 300SDL, with fairly high mileage on both.  Since I have owned them I
have not driven them hard at all, barely ever hitting 75mph.  Would it be
bad for the engines to just start driving them faster and harder??  Should
there be a breakin period, say driving a little faster gradually?  Just
wanting to do the best for these beauties.
Ralph '84 300CD
 '87 300SDL

On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 10:24 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Indeed - you will learn if there is abnormal wear in the engine, and get a
 feel for how much you could extend the change interval. My analysis results
 are coming back well within normal limits with M1 running at least 12,000
 miles on all the engines. Granted, I'm not running an OM61x engine anymore
 though ---

 On Tue, May 22, 2012 at 10:37 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

  On Tue, 22 May 2012 20:14:20 -0700 (PDT) Dimitri Seretakis
  dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
   Does oil analysis provide any benefit to those who change it every 3-4K
   miles? I use M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel Truck on my 240D and change it every
   4K miles. I guess an oil analysis would tell me if I can extend that
   interval?
 
  Yup, sure would. You might be able to extend your oil change interval and
  save money.
 
 
  Craig
 
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 --
 OK Don
 2001 ML320
 1992 300D 2.5T
 1990 300D 2.5T
 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] '87 300SDL Brake Pad Dash Light

2012-05-13 Thread Ralph Robertson
My '87 300SDL's brake pad dash light has started flashing while driving and
staying on at times, especially when I have the headlights turned on,
(which seems strange or coincidental.)  It also comes on when I am
stopping, and goes off when the brake pedal is released.

I had the brakes checked just a short while ago, and all was supposed to be
in order with the front and back brakes.

Are there other issues that might make this light come on and off like
this??, other than front brake pads??

Thanks.

Ralph '87 300SDL
 84 300 CD
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[MBZ] Use of synthetic oil in older diesels

2012-03-15 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have been reading with interest the threads re the smoking SDL and the
turbo issues.  In them there are references to using M1 oil, and I am a bit
confused/curious.  I have been under the impression that the older diesels
should not be using synthetic oils, and not to switch from dino to
synthetic.  Am I wrong here??  Thanks


Ralph '87 300 SDL
   '84 300 CD
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL running rough under load

2011-10-20 Thread Ralph Robertson
Have not noticed any difference in shifting except once, yesterday, when the
engine was cold and I was accelerating to get up to traffic speed, the 4th
gear seemed to take longer to shift, once it was warmed up, I did not notice
anything different.
Ralph

On Tue, Oct 18, 2011 at 10:41 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Sounds like partially restricted fuel filter(s) creating foaming under
 load, at the highest rate of fuel consumption.  Do you notice any difference
 in shifting?




 I will definitely get the fuel filter changed, and the air filter was
 checked recently, but I will change that as well.  The strange thing is
 that
 it runs perfect otherwise, just when it is under load on a long grade that
 it seems to lose power and start kind of missing, and when I come over
 the
 grade, it smooths out just like normal and runs fine.  I will get right on
 the simple things first and hope that does it.
 Ralph

 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 5:05 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79TD300@**constructivity.netrichthomas79td...@constructivity.net
 wrote:

  Well, are your fuel filters dirty?  Tank strainer?  In the boy's 300SD we
  had that problem when the intake manifold to ALDA hose was clogged, but
 I
  don't know if your engine has something similar or not.

   ---R


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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL running rough under load

2011-10-18 Thread Ralph Robertson
I will definitely get the fuel filter changed, and the air filter was
checked recently, but I will change that as well.  The strange thing is that
it runs perfect otherwise, just when it is under load on a long grade that
it seems to lose power and start kind of missing, and when I come over the
grade, it smooths out just like normal and runs fine.  I will get right on
the simple things first and hope that does it.
Ralph

On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 5:05 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 Well, are your fuel filters dirty?  Tank strainer?  In the boy's 300SD we
 had that problem when the intake manifold to ALDA hose was clogged, but I
 don't know if your engine has something similar or not.

 ---R


 On 10/17/11 3:52 PM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

 Today I noticed my SDL started running a bit rough while underload
 climbing
 a long steep grade.  Running just fine under normal load, starting well,
 as
 usual, nothing seems different except this roughness like a dirty fuel
 filter.  Never experienced this before and was wondering if it was related
 to the IP, or the turbo.  Would appreciate your thoughts.
 The engine has about 130k miles on it.
 Thanks,  Ralph, '84 300CD
 '87 300 SDL
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[MBZ] '87 300SDL running rough under load

2011-10-17 Thread Ralph Robertson
Today I noticed my SDL started running a bit rough while underload climbing
a long steep grade.  Running just fine under normal load, starting well, as
usual, nothing seems different except this roughness like a dirty fuel
filter.  Never experienced this before and was wondering if it was related
to the IP, or the turbo.  Would appreciate your thoughts.
The engine has about 130k miles on it.
Thanks,  Ralph, '84 300CD
'87 300 SDL
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[MBZ] '87 300SDL front wheel hubs

2011-10-04 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have a question for the experts; what is the small brass insert on the end
of the front wheel hubs on my '87 300SDL?  It seems to have a spring effect
and goes up against the wheel bearing cup.  Never noticed them before and
can't figure out what it is for.  Thanks.

Ralph '84 300CD
 '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300SDL front wheel hubs

2011-10-04 Thread Ralph Robertson
Thanks for the info., I keep learning things about these fantastic machines.

Ralph

On Tue, Oct 4, 2011 at 8:17 AM, Dan Penoff lwb...@yahoo.com wrote:

 It's for static suppression, believe it or not.

 It allows any static charges that build up in the wheel/tire to bleed off
 to the chassis and vice versa.

 If you don't replace it, you might get some static or noise in AM
 broadcasts.

 Dan

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 4, 2011, at 6:25 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

  I have a question for the experts; what is the small brass insert on the
 end
  of the front wheel hubs on my '87 300SDL?  It seems to have a spring
 effect
  and goes up against the wheel bearing cup.  Never noticed them before and
  can't figure out what it is for.  Thanks.
 
  Ralph '84 300CD
  '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] green antifreeze

2011-08-19 Thread Ralph Robertson
What's with the issue of using green antifreeze in diesels and aluminum
heads?  I had my antifreeze changed and I said to the mechanic that I heard
that I should not be using the green stuff re the aluminum head.  He picks
up the A/F container and read that it was safe for these heads.
What is the issue?

Ralph ';84 300CD
   '87 300SDL
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[MBZ] 300 sdl timing chain,

2011-08-09 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have about 150K miles on my 87 300SDL and am wondering at what mileage,  I
should be planning on changing the timing chain.  It is running well, except
for first starts when I get a rough running for about 8 sec. with blue smoke
accompanying the rough running.  Smooths out quickly and runs fine.

Ralph '87 300SDL
   '84 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] 300 sdl timing chain,

2011-08-09 Thread Ralph Robertson
Correct me if I am wrong, but I was of the opinion that there wasn't any
valve adjustments required for the 603 engine, which is my 300SDL, but would
be required on the 617, which is in my '84 300CD.  Is this correct??
Ralph

On Tue, Aug 9, 2011 at 8:37 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Ralph Robertson wrote:

 I have about 150K miles on my 87 300SDL and am wondering at what mileage,
  I
 should be planning on changing the timing chain.  It is running well,
 except
 for first starts when I get a rough running for about 8 sec. with blue
 smoke
 accompanying the rough running.  Smooths out quickly and runs fine.


 I don't think there were any defective chains in 1987 models, so you should
 be OK for quite some time. If you set the crank to top dead center (always
 going clockwise, roll it over again if you go too far), you can remove the
 valve cover and see if the timing marks line up on the cam. If the cam
 timing is retarded, roll the engine forward slowly until the cam is at TDC,
 and then read the chain stretch on the timing marks at the crank. If it
 hasn't stretched 3-4 degrees yet, don't worry about it.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] rear springs 126 - '87 300SDL

2011-06-28 Thread Ralph Robertson
I think replacing all the rubber parts is the way to go, especially with the
age of this unit.  Thanks.

Ralph

On Tue, Jun 28, 2011 at 12:05 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 IF the rear camber and toe in are ok without load, (and you are using the
 proper Bilstein shocks) then you can probably contact Air LIft for some air
 bags.

 Before you do that, you probably should inspect the upper and lower rubber
 spring pads and take the springs out and measure them.  The rubber spring
 pads are most certainly worn.

 There are many rubber components in the rear subframe assembly.  The only
 way to improve things that is not haphazard is to replace everything rubber.
  Subframe mounts, LCA bushings, Diff mounts,
 spring pads.

 From your description, I would guess the main problem is the spring pads
 and maybe subframe mounts.

 30 odd years ago, I put air lift bags in the rear springs of my 200D. They
 work well, but take some work to install.  BTW, they still hold air, but are
 shot.


  There is no difference in the wear pattern on the rear tires.  Are these
 rubber bushings a part of the spring setup?  I will get these eccentric
 bushings from Rusty and try it.  Sounds like it should be a simpler job
 than
 replacing the springs.  I had thought that adding air bags would be the
 answer, but had not heard anyone ever mention putting these on mercedes.
 Thanks.

 Ralph

 On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

   Replace the rubber bushings in the rear.  Makes a world of difference.
  I
  doubt buying new springs will make any difference. Rusty also has some
  eccentric bushings that will help correct this.

  Do you have more wear on the inside of the rear tires?

   I suspect that the rear springs on my '87 300 SDL are weak as the car

  sags
  considerably when passengers are in the back seat.  I replaced the rear
  shocks, but that did not correct this.  Are there any other options
 other
  than replacing these springs?  Thanks.

  Ralph '87 300SDL
   '84 300CD
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[MBZ] rear springs 126 - '87 300SDL

2011-06-27 Thread Ralph Robertson
I suspect that the rear springs on my '87 300 SDL are weak as the car sags
considerably when passengers are in the back seat.  I replaced the rear
shocks, but that did not correct this.  Are there any other options other
than replacing these springs?  Thanks.

Ralph '87 300SDL
   '84 300CD
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Re: [MBZ] rear springs 126 - '87 300SDL

2011-06-27 Thread Ralph Robertson
There is no difference in the wear pattern on the rear tires.  Are these
rubber bushings a part of the spring setup?  I will get these eccentric
bushings from Rusty and try it.  Sounds like it should be a simpler job than
replacing the springs.  I had thought that adding air bags would be the
answer, but had not heard anyone ever mention putting these on mercedes.
Thanks.

Ralph

On Mon, Jun 27, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Replace the rubber bushings in the rear.  Makes a world of difference.  I
 doubt buying new springs will make any difference. Rusty also has some
 eccentric bushings that will help correct this.

 Do you have more wear on the inside of the rear tires?

   I suspect that the rear springs on my '87 300 SDL are weak as the car
 sags
 considerably when passengers are in the back seat.  I replaced the rear
 shocks, but that did not correct this.  Are there any other options other
 than replacing these springs?  Thanks.

 Ralph '87 300SDL
   '84 300CD
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[MBZ] cruise control issues for 126, '87 300SDL

2011-06-21 Thread Ralph Robertson
My cruise control is starting to perform some erratic behaviour. Initially
it will not engage, and I have to continue to try engaging numerous times
before it will start.  Once starting, it surges on and off for quite a while
before it finally settles down and works fine.

Sounds like a vacuum issue, but I don't know where to start looking for a
fix.

Ralph '84 300CD
   '87 300SDL
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-30 Thread Ralph Robertson
Hi and thanks, the shop in Atlanta that did the balancing, also checked the
driveshaft for universal joints, etc., and told me that all was good, just a
slight balancing required.  The car has only about 140K miles on it. Before
goint the balance route, I checked around for either a used shaft or a new
one.  Rusty informed me that only the back section of the shaft is now
available and also advised me about the shop that would balance my existing
shaft.  I took that route.
Ralph

On Wed, Mar 30, 2011 at 8:32 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 If Kaleb doesn't have one, car-part.com is your friend for a used one.
  Rusty can get you a new one.



 Sounds to me like you've narrowed the list of culprits down to the drive
 shaft. How many miles on the car?  Swapping in a known good one sounds like
 a great
 idea, but where to obtain?

  Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 '87 300TD 334k miles (Off with the head!)
 '95 E300 281k miles (daily driving duties)
 '73 Balboa 20 (High  dry until the head is back on)
 Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-29 Thread Ralph Robertson
The shop that did the balancing was recommended by Rusty at MB Parts, so I
feel they are worthy of his recommendation.  They did mark the correct way
to re-join the two sections, and the shop doing my vehicle work, was well
aware of the importance of getting the two sections put back together
properly.
I neglected to include the numerous wheel/tire balancing exercising that I
did first, as that was the most obvious.
The shop that has been working on this vehicle had the car up on a hoist,
and several times did the speed test after each mount/ flex disc. change.
The vibration is quite noticeable.  They even had the rear wheels removed to
eliminate that aspect.  The centre bearing and support was changed at the
same time as the support was very worn out letting the shaft droop.
The vibration feels exactly as though the shaft is not exactly straight,
with that flexing kind of vibration that would result. I can feel the
vibration in the shaft tunnel, as well as the floor of the car. I feel that
this may be culprit, but how to make sure the shaft is perfectly level, is
what I will pursue now.

Ralph

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 9:54 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Had the drive shaft removed, checked out and balanced at a specialty shop
 in
 Atlanta, Ga.  It was out of balance slightly, and they added a weight to
 correct this.


 Just how familiar are they with 2-piece MB driveshafts?
 My money's still on that, especially if you are familiar
 with the different feel of the roughly 3x vibration frequency
 of drivelines versus anything else.  Could the driveline have
 been mis-phased when it was reinstalled?  About 27 wrong ways
 to line the two pieces up, one right way.  See:

 http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/JSLdline.html

 -- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-29 Thread Ralph Robertson
I have a feeling this is the area I should concentrate; ensure the shaft is
perfectly level, which if not, would certainly cause just such a vibration.
Will pursue this angle further.  Thanks.

Ralph

On Mon, Mar 28, 2011 at 11:06 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I chased this on my first SDL also.  One thing that helped: after I changed
 the carrier and the rubber mount again, I noticed the new rubber mount for
 the carrier is not as thick or stiff as the older ones.   THis allowed the
 carrier bearing to sag at rest, and to float around while running.  A
 definite source of vibration.  I cleaned the rubber good with brake cleaner,
 then took blue permatex and built up the mount below the bearing, with the
 driveshaft wired in as near centered as I could make it.  This helped.

 I have suspected that the new carrier bearing mount is not stiff enough to
 do the job, but never could prove it, since I don't have an old rubber mount
 to compare to.

 As Jim said, if any fool takes the driveshaft apart, there are 20 some
 wrong ways to put it back together, and only one right way. Even when you
 try to mark the halves, it is hard to get them aligned right.



 This sort of vibration can be tires, wheel bearings, diff mounts (you
 replaced that) subframe mounts, or a bad half shaft.  Check the axles for
 rotational play (that is, click-click while rotating back and forth.

 You should also check for excessive wear in the spider pinion -- there
 should be very little backlash while turning a rear wheel before the other
 one moves, along with the pinion (driveshaft).  If one wheel can be move a
 significant amount independent of the others, the diff is worn out.  Will
 clank sometimes, and can vibrate.  My 220D was shot, and I think the new
 300D is going to get a transplant soon, as it's bad as well.

 Weak shocks can permit wheel tramp a resonant speeds, so check those, and
 make sure the sway bar bushings in the rear and the links are all good, they
 allow the sway bar to vibrate if they are bad.

 Good luck!

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-28 Thread Ralph Robertson
An update to my long story:  I have a vibration at certain speeds in my '87
300SDL.  The vehicle is in super condition, with about 130K miles.  This is
what I have done thus far:
replace transmission output shaft bearing and seal.
replace drive shaft center carrier bearing.
replace both front and rear drive shaft flex discs.
replace differential mount.
remove and switch rear axles from left to right.
Had motor mounts and trans. mounts checked, but not replaced.  Apparently
they are all still good.
Had the drive shaft removed, checked out and balanced at a specialty shop in
Atlanta, Ga.  It was out of balance slightly, and they added a weight to
correct this.
The vibration still is noticeable when under acceleration at about 25-30
MPH, then smooths out.  At about 45-50 it returns until about 58 MPH, then
again smooths out and is not noticeable.  At about 70-75mph, I can feel it
again returning slightly.  After having all the above done, the vibration is
somewhat reduced and I assume the new rubbers are dampening the issue.
The strange thing is the weather seems to have an effect.  When the temp. is
around 55F., I can feel this issue, but if it is above say 70 degrees F, it
is practically unnoticeable, except for the higher speed vibration.
Except for replacing all the mounts, I am at a standstill!  Any ideas?
Thanks, Ralph - '87 300SDL
'84 300CD
On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 10:51 AM, Ralph Robertson rare...@gmail.com wrote:

 I first replaced all the rubber mountings on the vehicle, but the vibration
 was still there.  Now hoping the balancing of the shaft will do the trick.
 Thanks for all input.
 Ralph

   On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 9:54 PM, Max Dillon 
 meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Have you tried replacing the rubber bits?  Flex discs on front and rear,
 and
 carrier bearing with rubber mount; Any/all could be culprit as well.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 ]
 On Behalf Of Ralph Robertson
 Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 8:53 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

  I am assuming that the driveshaft for the 300SDL would be longer due to
 the
 longer wheelbase vehicle, but not sure.  I was able to locate a company
 that
 would overhaul my old driveshaft and balance it, so hoping that will
 correct
 my vibration issue.  Thanks for the reply.

 Ralph  '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD

 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:04 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

  There was (is?) an SDL at the knackers nearby, don't know what year, are
  there differences?  Maybe Max and I need to take a trip over there and
 check
  various things out.
 
  --R
 
 
  On 3/9/2011 8:12 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
 
   I am looking for a used driveshaft for my 1987 300SDL. Can anyone
 assist
  me
  here?
 
  Thanks. Ralph '87 300SDL
'84 300CD
   Brooskville, Fl, 34601
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-13 Thread Ralph Robertson
I first replaced all the rubber mountings on the vehicle, but the vibration
was still there.  Now hoping the balancing of the shaft will do the trick.
Thanks for all input.
Ralph

On Sat, Mar 12, 2011 at 9:54 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Have you tried replacing the rubber bits?  Flex discs on front and rear,
 and
 carrier bearing with rubber mount; Any/all could be culprit as well.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Ralph Robertson
 Sent: Friday, March 11, 2011 8:53 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

  I am assuming that the driveshaft for the 300SDL would be longer due to
 the
 longer wheelbase vehicle, but not sure.  I was able to locate a company
 that
 would overhaul my old driveshaft and balance it, so hoping that will
 correct
 my vibration issue.  Thanks for the reply.

 Ralph  '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD

 On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:04 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

  There was (is?) an SDL at the knackers nearby, don't know what year, are
  there differences?  Maybe Max and I need to take a trip over there and
 check
  various things out.
 
  --R
 
 
  On 3/9/2011 8:12 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:
 
   I am looking for a used driveshaft for my 1987 300SDL. Can anyone
 assist
  me
  here?
 
  Thanks. Ralph '87 300SDL
'84 300CD
   Brooskville, Fl, 34601
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-12 Thread Ralph Robertson
I am assuming that the driveshaft for the 300SDL would be longer due to the
longer wheelbase vehicle, but not sure.  I was able to locate a company that
would overhaul my old driveshaft and balance it, so hoping that will correct
my vibration issue.  Thanks for the reply.

Ralph  '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD

On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 11:04 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 There was (is?) an SDL at the knackers nearby, don't know what year, are
 there differences?  Maybe Max and I need to take a trip over there and check
 various things out.

 --R


 On 3/9/2011 8:12 AM, Ralph Robertson wrote:

  I am looking for a used driveshaft for my 1987 300SDL. Can anyone assist
 me
 here?

 Thanks. Ralph '87 300SDL
   '84 300CD
  Brooskville, Fl, 34601
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[MBZ] 1987 300SDL Driveshaft

2011-03-10 Thread Ralph Robertson
I am looking for a used driveshaft for my 1987 300SDL. Can anyone assist me
here?

Thanks. Ralph '87 300SDL
  '84 300CD
 Brooskville, Fl, 34601
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