Re: [MBZ] suddenly, no shifting, 1983 300D
The knowledge displayed by the folks of this board just amazes meI wish everything had this kind of knowledge base1 --- Can you survive the zombie apocalypse? --- Z O M B I E P L E X I A A interactive adventure for the droid and iPhone http://huesgfx.com/zombieplexia --- On Thu, 5/5/11, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] suddenly, no shifting, 1983 300D To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thursday, May 5, 2011, 10:20 AM It may be shorted internally, from water perhaps. You may have to unplug it. Rick Sent from my iPhone On May 5, 2011, at 11:56 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote: Thanks I'll check that. I don't recall flooring the accelerator to the point of hitting the kickdown switch, but I do tend to use a pretty heavy foot starting off from a stop (drive like you stole it, RIP Marshall). Allan On Thu, 05 May 2011 11:48 -0500, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote: Passing gear switch under the throttle pedal is stuck down. Pull it up with pliers, order a new one from Rusty, and don't floor it anymore, until it is replaced. :) rick Sent from my iPhone On May 5, 2011, at 11:31 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote: Driving into town today, everything seemed normal. Then went through a stretch of road work, stop and go for 15 minutes or so. Then at the next stoplight, when I started off the car would not shift out of 1st gear (or do these start in 2nd?). Anyway, no shifting in forward gears. Reverse works OK. Pulled over and checked fluid, level is good and it looks clean and no foam. Going to let it cool down and see if it's any different later. Ideas? Allan -- 1983 300D 1979 300SD ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] Lost prime in traffic
Hi all1 I wanted to tap the collective wisdom of the group. Yesterday my 300td dropped off in traffic. just going down the road and it acted like it lost fuel and chugged out. I hadn't been driving it so I assumed it was plugged fuel filters, but I swapped them out this morning but nothing. Could the lines from the tank be fouled? Is there an easy way to fix that (the car is stranded ont eh side of the road as I figure this out.) I't feels like I have lost prime, as I pump the priming handle onthe engine it doesn't seem to build up pressure Any thoughts are welcome. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Lost prime in traffic
Seems like there may be air in it. After pondering it a bit I'm now leaning towards tank screen Just got it towed home and tomorrows project is to flush and run some freash fuel through the system. In the light, the fuel almost looks black (oil black) in the inline filter so.I guess the lesson here is to not let a tank of gas sit for two years http://pfest.com The Preception Online Film Festival Online Streaming Film festival --- On Mon, 1/25/10, Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net wrote: From: Kevin Kraly kr...@comcast.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lost prime in traffic To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 3:22 PM Tank screen, air in the lines, out of Diesel? Have you tried disconnecting the tank plumbing and putting the lines into a can of Diesel to see if you can get it started? Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Lost prime in traffic
ahhh super good stuff. thanks a million. I'll run down this list tomorrow . I did notice one of the clamps on the inline fuel line was wore through and I cut it off and re tightened it down, but now I'm suspicious of the rest of the hoses... http://pfest.com The Preception Online Film Festival Online Streaming Film festival --- On Mon, 1/25/10, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote: From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lost prime in traffic To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Monday, January 25, 2010, 5:07 PM You may have a combination of things. a small air leak can become no fuel in combination with a plugged tank screen. Here is my suggestion: If you have more than 1/4 tank of fuel: on the left inner frame rail the fuel and return fuel lines com up from under the car. Loosen the clamps on both. pull off the hoses and swap them. tighten the clamps. Then try the primer pump. If the lines to the tank are dry, it can take quite a while to pull fuel up to the primer pump. If this works and you get fuel, you have a plugged tank screen. You will be able to drive it for a while at least. If it sat through the summer, I would guess you have algae in the fuel. You can buy and algicide at a marine store. Use the shock level treatment Carry spare filters, and change them when the engine is starving. I am assuming this is a 123 300TD, since you said it had a primer pump. The other part of the equation is to change all the rubber hoses from the tank to the transfer pump. a leak in the hose at the tank can also cause no fuel. the hoses will let air in, but not leak fuel, or only be damp, not dripping. If you have not done so recently, you should drain the tank, pull off the hose above the Right axle, remove the body plug. Then you can see the hex of the fuel drain/screen/pickup. It takes a big 3/4 drive socket to loosen. remove the plug and screen. Clean the screen. Put a new oring on the plug, reassemble. Then put on a new fuel hose. the OE from Rusty is the best. Being cheap, I cut the ferrules off the old hose and reuse the fittings with a chunk of new hose and a hose clamp Then replace the hose for the return line. Check the steel tubing for any signs of corrosion, especially under the clamps. A rust spot can also let air in , but not leak fuel. If you find rust scale, replace the steel line. Then replace the hose under the hood from the steel line to the prefilter, from the prefilter to the transfer pump, and the rest of the rubber hoses. The other likely culprit is the primer pump. They often leak, and if they leak, it allows air into the system and that means fuel is not drawn from the tank. If you have used it recently, and it did not leak fuel, bubble or hiss, then it may be good. Good luck. Hi all1 I wanted to tap the collective wisdom of the group. Yesterday my 300td dropped off in traffic. just going down the road and it acted like it lost fuel and chugged out. I hadn't been driving it so I assumed it was plugged fuel filters, but I swapped them out this morning but nothing. Could the lines from the tank be fouled? Is there an easy way to fix that (the car is stranded ont eh side of the road as I figure this out.) I't feels like I have lost prime, as I pump the priming handle onthe engine it doesn't seem to build up pressure Any thoughts are welcome. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] (no subject)
Hi all! I wanted to ask a quick question for the group mind before I started google-digging. I think it's been answered before here, or at least I have a vague memory of the topic from a year or so back... I have a '84 300d (turbo) and I have let her sit for the last two years. Last week I fired her up, (and she started up no problems) let her warm up for about 15-20 minutes and then proceeded to drive her lightly each day since then. I have noticed a few things I need to fix starting with new injectors and fule lines/filters as there seems to be a slight rattle from somewhere up there and I figure new injectors is a great place to start.. and some other minor things, but there is one new noise that I can't place. So, when I hit about 20 mph I will start to hear a slight ticking from what appears to be behind the glove box. As I drive faster the clicking reves up and gets loader and faster in synch with the engine. When I idle back down to about 20, it slows down and goes away. Does anyone know what this could be? Is there a vacuum pump up inside the dash or on the other side of the firewall? ( I seem to remember that there may be) Could it be door lock pump or some such up in there? I think I have some slight vacuum leaks in general as she seem to shift a bit hard and the door locks are slow it may be the/this pump Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. -hue- Lungren: '71 280 SEL Helgra: '84 300td Olfenhiganster: '68 190 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] strange ticking noise in dash was Re: (no subject)
Oh I don't think I like the sound of that! This is starting to sound expensive to fixZoiks! So I think I'll go pop the hood, fire her up and manually throttle up. I think I should be ale to hear it then if I have a leak hum. Here's hoping... http://pfest.com The Preception Online Film Festival Online Streaming Film festival --- On Thu, 8/13/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote: From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] (no subject) To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thursday, August 13, 2009, 3:08 PM Sounds like it might be an exhaust leak in the header pipe, or exhaust manifold. hue wong wrote: Hi all! I wanted to ask a quick question for the group mind before I started google-digging. I think it's been answered before here, or at least I have a vague memory of the topic from a year or so back... I have a '84 300d (turbo) and I have let her sit for the last two years. Last week I fired her up, (and she started up no problems) let her warm up for about 15-20 minutes and then proceeded to drive her lightly each day since then. I have noticed a few things I need to fix starting with new injectors and fule lines/filters as there seems to be a slight rattle from somewhere up there and I figure new injectors is a great place to start.. and some other minor things, but there is one new noise that I can't place. So, when I hit about 20 mph I will start to hear a slight ticking from what appears to be behind the glove box. As I drive faster the clicking reves up and gets loader and faster in synch with the engine. When I idle back down to about 20, it slows down and goes away. Does anyone know what this could be? Is there a vacuum pump up inside the dash or on the other side of the firewall? ( I seem to remember that there may be) Could it be door lock pump or some such up in there? I think I have some slight vacuum leaks in general as she seem to shift a bit hard and the door locks are slow it may be the/this pump Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. -hue- Lungren: '71 280 SEL Helgra: '84 300td Olfenhiganster: '68 190 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] strange ticking noise in dash was Re: (no subject)
So just went out and about on a quick test drive... and its absolutely something mechanical clicking away up in the dash or fire wall. I'll have to dig up a Hayes manual or something and see what could even be up in that area that could cause such a noise. Just nitices a few oil spots under her as well.. I'll have to track those down. http://pfest.com The Preception Online Film Festival Online Streaming Film festival --- On Thu, 8/13/09, hue wong wong_...@yahoo.com wrote: From: hue wong wong_...@yahoo.com Subject: [MBZ] strange ticking noise in dash was Re: (no subject) To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thursday, August 13, 2009, 3:18 PM Oh I don't think I like the sound of that! This is starting to sound expensive to fix Zoiks! So I think I'll go pop the hood, fire her up and manually throttle up. I think I should be ale to hear it then if I have a leak hum. Here's hoping... http://pfest.com The Preception Online Film Festival Online Streaming Film festival --- On Thu, 8/13/09, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote: From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net Subject: Re: [MBZ] (no subject) To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Date: Thursday, August 13, 2009, 3:08 PM Sounds like it might be an exhaust leak in the header pipe, or exhaust manifold. hue wong wrote: Hi all! I wanted to ask a quick question for the group mind before I started google-digging. I think it's been answered before here, or at least I have a vague memory of the topic from a year or so back... I have a '84 300d (turbo) and I have let her sit for the last two years. Last week I fired her up, (and she started up no problems) let her warm up for about 15-20 minutes and then proceeded to drive her lightly each day since then. I have noticed a few things I need to fix starting with new injectors and fule lines/filters as there seems to be a slight rattle from somewhere up there and I figure new injectors is a great place to start.. and some other minor things, but there is one new noise that I can't place. So, when I hit about 20 mph I will start to hear a slight ticking from what appears to be behind the glove box. As I drive faster the clicking reves up and gets loader and faster in synch with the engine. When I idle back down to about 20, it slows down and goes away. Does anyone know what this could be? Is there a vacuum pump up inside the dash or on the other side of the firewall? ( I seem to remember that there may be) Could it be door lock pump or some such up in there? I think I have some slight vacuum leaks in general as she seem to shift a bit hard and the door locks are slow it may be the/this pump Anyway, any thoughts would be appreciated. -hue- Lungren: '71 280 SEL Helgra: '84 300td Olfenhiganster: '68 190 ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, http://www.okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
[MBZ] clackity, clack, clack... 300d sounds like a panzer
Hi all! So I'm doing the spring work on the fleet and have an old 82 300d. Well the durned thing vibrates and clanks a little more then I think it should. I replaced the motor mounts last year (but did not replace the little vibration damper) and it marginally fixed the vibrations. Anyway, I caught the tail end of a thread last week about the motor clanking... I think I have the clank and am trying to get rid of it. My first step was a new timing chain and tensioner,,, The next step is replacing the injectors. I have heard that if you have a bad injector, you can get a pretty bad clanking, like all heck is breaking loose up in the engine. Does anyone know the procedure to check this? Something along the line of disconnect the fuel line going to the injectors, one at a time, to see if the clanking will go away Is that about the long and short of it? Anyone else know of a problem that would cause undue clanking in the motor. (the engine seems to run real strong, with little blue smoke at start up the engine has 122k on it) Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks; -hue- 82 300td 71 280 sel (70% condition, for sale) 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news
Re: [MBZ] clackity, clack, clack... 300d sounds like a panzer
I did do the tranny mount,, but not the diff mount... not sure I saw that mount on my dio-gram. I think I thought the tranny mount was the only one under there besides the moter mounts. Thanks~ -hue- --- Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hue, You might check the Transmission mount and the differential mount, before you go looking inside the engine. When you did the timing chain, did you adjust the valves? In my experience, and others have far more than I do, it makes sense to do one repair at a time, then check for the symptoms again. As they say YMMV Good luck and be safe, Chuck Phoenix AZ On Apr 1, 2007, at 3:01 PM, hue wong wrote: Hi all! So I'm doing the spring work on the fleet and have an old 82 300d. Well the durned thing vibrates and clanks a little more then I think it should. I replaced the motor mounts last year (but did not replace the little vibration damper) and it marginally fixed the vibrations. Anyway, I caught the tail end of a thread last week about the motor clanking... I think I have the clank and am trying to get rid of it. My first step was a new timing chain and tensioner,,, The next step is replacing the injectors. I have heard that if you have a bad injector, you can get a pretty bad clanking, like all heck is breaking loose up in the engine. Does anyone know the procedure to check this? Something along the line of disconnect the fuel line going to the injectors, one at a time, to see if the clanking will go away Is that about the long and short of it? Anyone else know of a problem that would cause undue clanking in the motor. (the engine seems to run real strong, with little blue smoke at start up the engine has 122k on it) Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks; -hue- 82 300td 71 280 sel (70% condition, for sale) __ __ 8:00? 8:25? 8:40? Find a flick in no time with the Yahoo! Search movie showtime shortcut. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/shortcuts/#news ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Sucker-punch spam with award-winning protection. Try the free Yahoo! Mail Beta. http://advision.webevents.yahoo.com/mailbeta/features_spam.html
Re: [MBZ] Noisy 300D engine
So, I've supsected my 300d has this problem and it's the next repair I do (my car sounds like a panzer tank sometimes, compaired to some of the other 300d I've compaired it to.. I have not started the research on this procedure. but, is it as simple as taking out the old injectors and putting in new ones? That almost seems TOO easy... (unlike the timmeing chain that was 11 degrees off, yet when replaced, didn't seem to make the car run any better, but was a great learning expereince!) Anyway, just curious. proabaly won't do this till a few months into the spring time... --- James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: great V12 - 12 injectors @ $147.50 equals a lot of money but still less than buying the car new jim - Original Message - From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 2:31 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Noisy 300D engine James Zavesky wrote: What does Injector Nailing Sound Like? It's a heavy knocking sound, once every time the cylinder fires (so once for every two crank revolutions.) It sounds a lot like pounding a nail into something solid with a hammer, hence the name. It also sounds remarkably like rod knock -- I've heard a couple of stories of people taking VW diesels apart, looking for a bad rod bearing, when the problem was actually a bad injector. ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com Sponsored Link $420k for $1,399/mo. Think You Pay Too Much For Your Mortgage? Find Out! www.LowerMyBills.com/lre
Re: [MBZ] Noisy 300D engine
that seems really straight forward. i might give that a try over the upcomming weekend. Now I'm starting to worry that I have bad rods! zoiks! ;-) --- Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The best way to check the problem is to grab your 17 mm open end wrench and crack #1 injector line, if the sound goes away-that's your problem. If not, tighten the injector line and wait for the engine idle to smooth out, then repeat on #2, #3, etc. until you find the source. If none of them quiet the sound, the problem is deep in the engine. -- Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car Quoting James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED]: What does Injector Nailing Sound Like? Jim - Original Message - From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Monday, November 20, 2006 11:51 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Noisy 300D engine My S350 was nailing horribly when I first got it. The injector springs were worn causing them to fire too soon. A set of rebuilt injectors quieted things down nicely. -Dave Walton 87SDL, 94S350, 99E300 On 11/20/06, Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My one 300D engine ( In Gwagen ) is a lot noisier than the other I have in a W123 and this really came to a light when I came agross another 300GD over the weekend and its engine was probably a good 10db quiter than mine at idle. My tappets have been checked as has been th einjection timing. All is well with the engine as far as I know. It sounds healthy - just noisier that I guess it should be. Sould a bit like a direct injection truck engine of the 80's . Any thoughts? PEter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Sponsored Link Mortgage rates near 39yr lows. $310k for $999/mo. Calculate new payment! www.LowerMyBills.com/lre
[MBZ] CL: 1951 Mercedes 220 four door project car?
Hi all! I have always loved these older mercedes. Does anyone have any idea how hard it might be to round up parts (engine and tranny and I suspect other type of suspension and such will be needed) or if another type of engine would bolt in? I tend to have trouble finding parts for my 71 280. I could only imagine what this one could be like... Anyway. thanks in advance... http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/159083699.html __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 108's
In my case, I wanted to tune and upgrade a car I have, before I started a full biofuel conversion... Figured the car should be worth the effort and cost of putting a real bio-fuel system in So, I have an old clunker of a 300d that I have been rebuilding the last few weeks. Replaced the sub frame mounts, trany mounts, shocks, brakes, fixed the sunroof, new tie-rods, fixed a bunch of vacuum and oil leaks and decided that I should replace the timing chain and upgrade the injector system. Just got the chain fixed and it all lined up at super top dead center... next it on to the injectors... and then maybe some transmition work (although I think it's a vacuum problem that makes it shift the way it does...) Anywya... once all this is done then, I plan on doing a SVO conversion with new tank, heater and lines... Having never worked on a diesel before, this has all been a super learning experience for me, figured I'd just jump in and do it, no better way to learn I think... (and lots of folks from the list have helped out when I've gotten stuck on something...) and has been super enjoyable. After all this, I almost consider myself a diesel mech-i-neck... --- andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What is connection (if any) between biodiesel and changing timing chains?? On 4/20/06, Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On 4/20/06, hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now it just sits sad really Anyone need one in seattle? I'm stuck on these 300d's now (doing the biofuel (and changing timing chains!!) Come on now, you know you have to offer condition of vehicle and price when you ask a question like that. -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 108's
Oh , my appologies. 71' 280sel 4.5. silver on black ,but was repainted from original cream at some point and has a little rust on one door well (the right rear I think)... lots of new stuff on the engine, that I've put on... gets about 11 mpg +_ I've kept maintenece records, but I've only had it about six years... odo stopped about two years ago, but reads 556321 so it could be 1.5k miles or 2.5k I'd say the entire car is like 70%-75%, runs strong, looks good. typical glitches, a few dings..(still has vacuum issues and needs front brakes and new plastic air levers inside on the dash) Tranny's good. Electrics are good. I'll post pictures here soon. Figure it's worth $1500.00 to $2000.00 or so? Not realy sure actually as I have to really think it through... Would also be keen on trading for a sailboat (another 300t? a old VW bug), a chest full of monkeys or something interesting... ;-) --- Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On 4/20/06, hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now it just sits sad really Anyone need one in seattle? I'm stuck on these 300d's now (doing the biofuel (and changing timing chains!!) Come on now, you know you have to offer condition of vehicle and price when you ask a question like that. -- Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard... Be Evil. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 108's
Weren't al these machines designed for the autobahn? My 71 280sel does the exact same thing. Kinda a dog till about 65-70 then it becomes a rocket... Those v-8's really go. Frankly its the fasted (and most stable) car I have ever driven and I ruteinely beat the little rice grinders that try and zwoop past, but alas... 8-11 mpg... even back in the day of cheap gas, it would cost me 25.00-30 bucks to drive a day Now it just sits sad really Anyone need one in seattle? I'm stuck on these 300d's now (doing the biofuel (and changing timing chains!!) --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is a noticeable phenomenon with all pre oil gouge 1 (1975) GERMAN VEHICLES. My R75/7 is wonderful up to 70-75; at 80-85 it transforms to a different machine, all the way up to Vmax. smoother, quieter, just fantastic. Same is true for the 220Sb and the 108s I have driven. Every German gasser I have driven, including the motorrads, also is at optimum at about 50-60 degrees F with high humidity conditions. They run noticeably smoother, quieter and get better fuel economy. I love riding or driving gassers in these conditions, almost as much as I love my Diesels in all conditions. I don't know why, but i had seen these phenomena many times. Loren At 10:36 AM 4/20/2006, you wrote: And once it hit 75 it would change - can;t really explain it - but at 75 and up it was like another car - very smooth, very quite and seemed to want to run at 80+ all day long!! The V8 did the same thing - maybe the suspension was tuned to act that way - but at 75 you could watch the gas needle drop. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Impulsformer??????
Yup, that sounds about like it. Hu should I be concerned there is a spare around? I'm assuming the previous owner got it for a reason... Zoiks! --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Was just cleaning out the trunk and found a brand new, sealed in box (1 stock impulsformer) for a 300d Looks like a black gas can screw on cap with electrical prongs. Does it look like the thing that screws into the diagnostic connector on the inner fender? About like a large-ish film can? That's the tachometer amplifier. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] A few weeks ago, a link was posted..
SOmebody posted a link to a real good tutorial on replacing the timing chainon a 300d...(all I remember was that it was on a benz site and the poster had shot the tutorial in his garage...) I wanted to forward it on to a friend about to do the same procedure and thought I bookmarked it... but alas, I didn't... Does anyone have that link, prechance? Thanks; -hue- __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] A few weeks ago, a link was posted..
Ya that was it! thanks! --- Mathieu J. Cama [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://dieselgiant.com/replacetimingchain.htm On Apr 18, 2006, at 6:26 PM, hue wong wrote: SOmebody posted a link to a real good tutorial on replacing the timing chainon a 300d...(all I remember was that it was on a benz site and the poster had shot the tutorial in his garage...) I wanted to forward it on to a friend about to do the same procedure and thought I bookmarked it... but alas, I didn't... Does anyone have that link, prechance? Thanks; -hue- ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Impulsformer??????
Was just cleaning out the trunk and found a brand new, sealed in box (1 stock impulsformer) for a 300d Looks like a black gas can screw on cap with electrical prongs. Out of curiousity, does anyone know what a impulsformer does? (heres hoping its something really cool like it opens demension doors or makes the car go like 300kph on 1 gallon of fuel or something neat like that..!) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
So we just pulled the new timing chian from rusty through following the procedure outlined in the book(s) and darned it, it seems one link short. Now I'm all freaked out. Did I somehow miss a sprocket in there? could it be the chain tensioner pushing to hard? I'm completly at loss as to what to do next or how to correct this problem. It sure looked like we had super tension on the chain the entire time, but I'm at a loss as to what to do next.. not sure how to correct this problme (but suspect I will not like the anwser) Any thought would be appercaited! '82 300 TD __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
What? None of these cheap damb manuals mentioned this in the procedures [EMAIL PROTECTED] it! So if I take the tensioner out and re-thread the chain, all will be well? how do I make sure everthing ins lined up? and not fear that I have one link of on a sprocket somewhere? --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now I'm all freaked out. Did I somehow miss a sprocket in there? could it be the chain tensioner pushing to hard? I'm completly at loss as to what to do next or how to correct this problem. The chain tensioner is supposed to be removed during the procedure. Take it out! -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
well damb! So what would be your advice if this was tried with the tensioner in. I suspect I've done a doosy on this! lord Trial by fire, will make me a desiel mechanic yet! zoiks! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: So we just pulled the new timing chian from rusty through following the procedure outlined in the book(s) and darned it, it seems one link short. Now I'm all freaked out. Did I somehow miss a sprocket in there? could it be the chain tensioner pushing to hard? I'm completly at loss as to what to do next or how to correct this problem. It sure looked like we had super tension on the chain the entire time, but I'm at a loss as to what to do next.. not sure how to correct this problme (but suspect I will not like the anwser) The tensioner MUST be removed while pulling the chain. The tensioner goes in AFTER the chain is pulled, attached and peened over. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
Chilton!!! I curse you!!! ( just looked and both my manuals are chiltons) Rat bastards That step is missing in both books!! --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What? None of these cheap damb manuals mentioned this in the procedures [EMAIL PROTECTED] it! Step 3 in the '79 300D engine manual: Remove tensioner Step 1 in the 201 602 engine manual: Remove tensioner -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
Oh, I'm learning all sorts of lessons with this project! ;-( But as someone said. at the end, I'll know everything there is to know aobut timing chans.. (which was really the goal of the project anyway... I told myself a few weeks ago, I could either pay some shop almost what I paid fo rhte car, or I could just roll up my sleeves and learn to do it myslef... Luckily I have some time and a garage where things can sit. to accomplish all of the repair. Except for this one, everything else has gone real smooth (new sub mounts, moter mounts, tie rods, vacume system, boy the mightvac works wonders... shocks, turbo oil leak..) I guess I didn't even know chiltons were that bad of manuals!!! the things I don't know Anyway, onward through the fog! --- Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think you've just learned a valuable lesson. Remember when you were pricing timing chains and somebody told you not to cheap out and the get the cheapest you could find? The same is true with manuals... -Curt Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 23:18:06 -0700 (PDT) From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Chilton!!! I curse you!!! ( just looked and both my manuals are chiltons) Rat bastards That step is missing in both books!! - Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300tdtimingchainissues)
I ordered up the parts from rusty this morning Once I heard he sponcered the list and that the part will be brand new from rusty... it was a no brainer.. Should have it by the first of next week and will swap that timing chain out and suspect the car will run a little better I've read through the process a few times now in my mcparts manual and it seems like a real straight forward procedure --- OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm guessing that Hue doesn't know about Big Baboon's history. Bottom line is - buyer beware. Many horror stories. This list boycots him for many reasons, not the least of which was his attempt to hijack Rusty's business name. On 4/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: yes Rick Knoble wrote: Here is one on ebay for 59.00... seems to be the cheapest around... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-DIESEL-TURBO-DIESEL-TIMING-CHAIN-240D-300D-SD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQitemZ8054279146QQrdZ1 Isn't that Big Baboon? Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '90 300D 243K, Rattled '87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car '81 240D 173K, Gramps, or yellow car '78 450SLC 67K, brown car '97 Ply Grand Voyager 78K Van Go ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Advice on Timing Chain Replacement (was: 300td timing chain issues)
Hi all! I have some questions for the collective group if I may, as I try and understand the diesel timing chain and how it corresponds to the engine tune. Im exactly at 5% stretch on my timing chain in my 82 300t with a stock turbo 617. From what I have been gathering from the various input I have received that this is just a bit much and the timing chain should be replaced. So I have decided to do this. When I do this, should I: Replace the tensionier? Since there is enough wear to stretch the chain 5% I suspect there will be some little slack in the sprockets. So the new chain will not exactly line up at zero when I put it on. So should I suspect it to line up at like 1%? I plan on just crimping with a hammer, (since I have some vague experience with a ball peen) this seems fairly straight forward. I have a small dremel with a grinding disk. Would this tool be enough to grind off the pins to loose the old chain? Ummm Is there anything else I should think of before I try and swap the timing chains? I am new to this, so any info or insight you may have, would be greatly appreciated.! Thanks- Hue- 82 300td helgra 71 280sel lungren --- archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: More good news. Thanks. GerryA - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] I have always just used a ball peen hammer. archer wrote: It looks like Loren has convinced me I can do it with a ball peen hammer. Thanks for the reference to Mercedesshop. It's good to know tools can be rented someplace besides Performance Products. GerryA ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
I belive it is the 61X.xx engine It's a 300t '82 the Odo reads 129k (but I suspect it might have been turned at the shady car lot I bought it from...) I decided to set the vavles and button her up and do the work after another few thousand miles or so (the end of summer.) Teh sprocket looks good and for the most part, everything seems really tight in there...) the rest of the car has some issues that need fixed first and I suspect my transmition Still I've just read through three service manuals about the procedure and it doesn't seem to hard to change... A little grinding and a feed through the gears withthe wire trick ...(almost like an old bike chain removal) Almost wondering if I should do it while I have everything open and in the garage Wondering if it will make THAT dramatic of a improvment... but I don't want the thing flying apart on the road either. I hear that pretty much kills the engine... and thisis the one thing you want to keepup on on these old engines... Thanks for your advice! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: Hi all! Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks like it's exactly 5 degrees off. (if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing gauge on teh crankcase housing?) And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly is the procedure to swap out the timing chain? Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped out as well! Well if you're talking about a 61x.9x engine with 5 degrees of stretch you have time to plan and carry out the change when it's convenient (if you have a 60x engine you it's a little more urgent). It can safely be done any time in the next 10-20kmi. The system is designed so that ONLY the chain and tensioner (or at least it's spring) need to be changed if it's done in a timely manner. No need to change the sprocket unless its hooked or the guides unless they are DEEPLY grooved (they are expected to be changed when the engine is rebuilt from the ground up - usually at about 500kmi). Chains almost NEVER break until the stretch approaches 9-10 degrees. After you change the chain, the car WILL run and usually start better! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
So, Look slike I would do this if I had access to the
tool The tool is like 189.00 and the timiming
chain is only 63.00 so geee. can't justify buying
the tool..
If, it's like an old bike chain, no problem, but it
looks like this big double chain may be a bit more and
need the tool? ANyone know where to dig one up in
Seattle?
Also, So... I swap this chain out and that re-synchs
the timeing, a quick valve clearence set and all is
well withthe engine? (seems strangly simple)
These desiels are so much different then the gassers I
had before (this is my first deseil)...
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
It forces the stud material over in a brad-like
manner. I managed to do it
without the special tool but the engine was
completely disassembled during
the rebuild and I was able to put the chain in a
vise where I could work on
it. Then, I put the complete circular chain in
place. I tried to get my
wife to take the chain to the dealer and pay them to
use the special tool to
brad the connnecting link over - didn't work - even
though she explained it
was needed for a *completely disassembled* engine
they refused saying it was
supposed to be installed *then* the connecting link
was to be assembled. Oh
well, I found a way in spite of them. ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2006 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
The procedures you;ve read are probably pretty
descriptive. Basically,
you
attach the new chain to the old one, turn the
engine slowly and feed the
new
one in as the old one comes out. When the old
one is completely out,
attach
the ends of the new one together and using the
special tool, fix the
connecting link.
There are places which will loan or rent you the
special tool needed to
finish off the connecting link --
The critical part is to make sure the chain stays
in contact with the
sprockets so everything turns in concert. Where
the chain engages the
injection pump drive sprocket the clearence is
tight enough to keep the
chain engaged - but you'll need to keep tension
on the chain so the chain
stays tight against the cam sprocket, etc. Not a
difficult job, but you
must be vigilent so the chain doesn;t jump a
link.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
--
Does the special tool rivet or brad the chains
patch link together?
The only one I've done; on a '67 200D; had a
bicycle chain type patch link
that snapped together without using a special
tool.
GerryA
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Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Hi all! Just had a chance to chek the reading and it looks like it's exactly 5 degrees off. (if the mesurement is: the mark on the cam guide collar and top notch on the bearing tower at 3' oclock are aligned and are supposed to match/lineup with the top post/nub/zero degrees on the bottom timing gauge on teh crankcase housing?) And if this is bad, then How hard and what exactly is the procedure to swap out the timing chain? Is is a timing chain swap, or do sprockets and tensioners and railguides, ect need to be swapped out as well! (oh how I hate these simple projects that get big! zoiks!) Thanks is advance for any info... --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Can anyone point me in the right direction of the procedure to check the timing chain stretch? Line up the marks that are on the collar of the cam gear and the back of the front cam bearing tower at the 3 o'clock position when you're standing in front. Read the degrees of stretch off of the timing scale on the damper. Rotate the engine only in the correct direction, either with the crank nut or the power steering nut. The latter, if it works for you, is usually considerably easier to access. Anything above 5 degrees means it's probably time to change it out. Double that and it's time to not start the engine again before you fix it! -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
So I am into my engine with the spring overhaul and am suspicious now of my timing chain. Seems to have about 1/4'-ish inch of travel when I push my thumb against it in the middle of the two timing gears (it does srping back nicely) Anyhow, none of the three mcparts manuals I have, go into the process of actually testing this. Can anyone point me in the right direction of the procedure to check the timing chain stretch? I want to make sure there is a problem, before I try and replace it. Also, is it a tough job to swap a timing chain and tensioner out? Seems almost like it would be Thanks in advance! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues
Up in ballard in seattle... I tell ya, the more I look at this, the more I think that it might be fine. Except for the movment int he chain, everything looks super tight. There is no slop in the sprket, the chain seems tight. I'll line it up in the morning based on some new suggestions from the list and messure the stretch... Frankly the more I look at the cam and the wear on the lobes, (which is nill) I wonde rif maybe this unit hasn't had a valve job before and maybe the panzer like clack was from the injectors! --- Rick Knoble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - Original Message - From: hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:14 PM Subject: [MBZ] 300td timing chain issues Where are you located Hue? Perhaps one of the more mechanicaly inclined listers is close by and can lend some insight and maybe a hand. Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Desiel Clacking....
So, I'm in the process of a big tune up on my 82 3oot. Today i started the vavles. I had assumed thath the majority of the panzer like clancking that the engine puts out, was vavle slap! But alas, once I got in there, everything looked super swell... Tight timing chain, no hard ware on the camsaft lobes, no varnish on the valve cover... SO now I am wondering what could be cuasing that louder then think it should be clanking? Could it be the injectors? Tomorrow the valves get set and the tranny moter mount and engine dampner go it! We'll see how it sounds then! Down with the clank, I want the pu __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Desiel Clacking....
Hey thanks loren! I thought it was the chain, but I just popped hte valve covers and find that the cahin looks really tight (maybe a 1/4 play?) does hat sound about right? It doesn't look worn or anything but maybe it loosens up under power/ --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Worn injector nozzles have a softer sound then new, properly set nozzles. However, a really bad nozzle or several other factors can cause a harsh sound, similar to a ping (detonation) in a gasser. This is referred to as nailing, and it is louder than a ping. What I would describe as a clacking is the sound a loose chain makes. This can be a bad tensioner, or a worn chain, but usually is both, working together. The clack is the chain bouncing on the chain case or rails. At 01:28 AM 3/31/2006, you wrote: On Mar 30, 2006, at 8:02 PM, hue wong wrote: SO now I am wondering what could be cuasing that louder then think it should be clanking? Could it be the injectors? Yes, it can be many other things too. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Desiel Clacking....
Hey thanks... So, yes, this is my questyion and I want to be clear before I do this. The place to NOT try and turn the engine is the big nut that keeps the upper timing sprocket on the camshaft?) and should be turned on the crank ? Right behind the fan I'm new to this but have heard rummor of dire things is you try and turn the wrong thing... Just checked the timing chain again and it sure seems nice and tight, and things don't look worn, but then again I really don't know what I am looking for... seems to be about 1/4-1/2 inch of travel when I push the chain in with my thumb under tension just between the top and bottem timing sprocets...but it springs right back... Soon as I get the valves set, I'll check the streach on that thing! thanks for the advice! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: Hey thanks loren! I thought it was the chain, but I just popped hte valve covers and find that the cahin looks really tight (maybe a 1/4 play?) does hat sound about right? It doesn't look worn or anything but maybe it loosens up under power/ If the chain isn't VERY tight, you have a problem. The tensioner should keep the chain tight even after it twice as worn as the limit for chain replacement. You need to MEASURE chain stretch. Set the mark on the cam sprocket to align with the mark on the cam tower (only turning engine in the direction of proper rotation - by turning the crank - not the cam) and read degrees of stretch off of the crank damper. More than 5 degrees of stretch and the chain needs to be replaced. At about 10 degrees of stretch the pistons and valves begin to collide. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Desiel Clacking....
Good to know What type of job is that timing chain/tensioner removal and swap? I'm still fightened to set these valves! zoiks! ;-) --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There is a procedure for checking the chain tensioner in the manuals. Maybe someone can chime in with the job number. While you are in there, check the chain timing. the easiest way to get a clue about the chain is to line up the crank to TDC and look to see how well the notch in the cam washer lines up with the mark on the side of the front cam tower (on the right side). If the notch v is outside the timing mark, you should measure the chain stretch. If you can move the chain that much, you have a problem there. My guess is that you need to replace the chain and tensioner. Loren At 12:46 PM 3/31/2006, you wrote: Hey thanks loren! I thought it was the chain, but I just popped hte valve covers and find that the cahin looks really tight (maybe a 1/4 play?) does hat sound about right? It doesn't look worn or anything but maybe it loosens up under power/ --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Worn injector nozzles have a softer sound then new, properly set nozzles. However, a really bad nozzle or several other factors can cause a harsh sound, similar to a ping (detonation) in a gasser. This is referred to as nailing, and it is louder than a ping. What I would describe as a clacking is the sound a loose chain makes. This can be a bad tensioner, or a worn chain, but usually is both, working together. The clack is the chain bouncing on the chain case or rails. At 01:28 AM 3/31/2006, you wrote: On Mar 30, 2006, at 8:02 PM, hue wong wrote: SO now I am wondering what could be cuasing that louder then think it should be clanking? Could it be the injectors? Yes, it can be many other things too. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Rusty contact
So I need a bunch of parts and tools and such for the spring maintence on the desiel. I've heard mention of this mysterious rusty who has all parts... Does anyone have his website? I'd like to place an order... Thanks all! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] valve adjustment wrenches?
So I just looked on ebay and a pair of bent 14mm box , valve adjustment, wrenches were going for $$$65.00... Zoiks! I say!!! Seems high... I don't have the ability to heat and bend my own, so does anyone know of a better deal out there? Thanks in advance! __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] setting the valves 300t (get rid of the clacking?)
Hi all! So I've got an 82 300td and I've put in about zero maintence in the two years I have had it. Just bought it and drove it off the lot. Since then, i've noticed that it has progressively gotten louder. Some 300t's I see go down the road just purrr. Mine sounds like an old panzer clanking along. So I figured a good spot to start, would be setting the valves. However, I haven't set valves since high school and only then on a old VW bug. I've seen some reference to some special wrenches that make the job MUCH eaiser. My question to the group... Are there any other gotcha's, quirks, or tricks that I should know about up front? Just find TDC and start from there? (as I remember it was fairly simple to set the valves ont he VW, but this 300td has all sorts of linkage and hoses and such that seem to have to be removed first! zoiks! Tahnks in advance for any insight! -hue- 79 280sel lungren 82 300d (turbo) helgra __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] setting the valves 300t (get rid of the clacking?)
Wow, I just read through the PDF that Marchel sent out and it very much looks like the special wrenchs and valve collar holder will be in order. Whewww! I love the list. I could have gotten into this and been totaly ill-prepared and had it become a project rather then simple maintenence...!!! Thanks all! That's the big one. But it can be done without these bent 14mm wrenches, or so I'm told. Having done valves a couple of times I wouldn't really want to have to try. I made my own wrenches from pawnshop specials and the smoke wrench. __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] return line from air filter
Yes, I have the same problem. It looks like it was a forced fit type of connection. mine comes loose and blows oil all over. After a few days go by, I swear it pumps out a quart or so (cumilitive) not to sure how to as it looks like its a small 2 inch nipple on the air filter houseing that fits into a steel tub that goes to the oil pan This steel tub is loos and I'm not sure how to get it all tight again! Anyway, I first thought it was my turbo seals, but I found out is was this oil return... a much easier and cost effective fix Now if I just can fix it! --- Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had one that came in half. Rusty found a replacement after a lot of describing and insisting it's not the turbo drain. The seals at top and bottom are identical O-rings. I found them them pictured in a Performance catalogue - Seal Ring - Oil Drain Tube to Oil Pan. On 3/18/06, Richard Murdoch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This seems so much like something I should have known ages ago that I wondered if I should register under a pseudonym before asking. I'm trying to take care of some of the oil leaks on our 82 300TDt while I'm finishing the new oil cooler lines and motor mounts. A piece of the tube (return line (?)) that attaches to the bottom of the air filter housing had disintergrated and I managed to patch it with hose and clamps that held for a long time. Since I had never taken it off I am not sure how it should go on. Should there be some type of hose or gromet to hold it to the air filter housing? And at the bottom? Even on the parts car there is nothing where the tube is supposed to attach to the housing and the pan. When I patched it I also put a piece of hose over the top end and clamped it to the filter housing. That seemed to do the job for a long time but I would like to get it right. I don't know if this is a source of a lot of oil that has recently accumlated on that side of the engine or not. Richard Murdoch 82 300TDt 82 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX '82 300SD, '95 E300D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] motor mounts 82 300TDt
Yes! And don't do what I did last fall... and only change the front mounts. Now I have to crawl back under and get the rear transmtion mounts, this week... When one is bad, it means that the rest are weeks/months away from going bad... the rubber/poly in the mounts all rots at the same rate! zoiks! wish I would have known that, then! --- John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Mar 13, 2006, at 6:13 PM, John Ervine wrote: I think a lot of my problem was also that the passenger side mount was also collapsed (though not to the extent as the driver side). I bet you'll plan on changing both at the same time on subsequent Motor Mount jobs. When they're both new, less wrestling is required. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Will a '71 280se grill fit a '71280sel?
Trying to find parts for my 71 280sel that was popped in the front end, need to replace the front grill and one headlight bucket... After months of searching, finaly found a 71 280se grill, but in doing a little research I see this is for the 108 chassie and the 280sel is the 113.?. Does anyone know if the grill from the 108 will bolt on to the 113 chassie? Thanks in advance; -hue- __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] Idle is getting scary rough.
Check the moter mounts! This made a HUGE difference in my 300td and the synmptoms sound aobu thte same... --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: check the delivery valves. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: About 3 weeks ago, my 91 300D 2.5 turbo started idling rough. It came on kind of gradual, so I didn't sweat it. I had an '87 190D 2.5T and it idled rough. I figured it was due up at 155k, so I put some injectors in it. Wierdly, the cylinders all seem to be firing better, but the idle is getting worse. I can feel that the injectors made a difference, but they did not seem to affect the problem much at all. It seems to be getting worse, though that might just be the temperature dropping. What else should I be looking at? Under any load at all, the car runs like a champ. It just hates to idle. The idle is rough enough to make my CD player skip, though. Thanks for any tips. Kevin ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival __ Yahoo! Music Unlimited Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
Re: [MBZ] 300td trailer hitches
Just caught up onthe list! zoiks I have on of these (I think it's factory) riding around in t e back of my trunk (300td) It came with the car and I've never put it on! --- Rick Hawkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Folks, I finally found a hitch for my 300TD 1982. BUT it turns out to be from a euro bumper car. It sits too high for the US spec bumper. Temporarily, I think I'll hang the euro bumper on but I guess I'll be manufacturing 300td receiver hitches for us bumper cars. So, how many of you want a light duty hitch, bolt on for your 300td? Price should be about $211. plus s/h. Email me off list if you want one. They'll accept the small receiver type ball mount which you can pick up at your local walmart. I can email photos of how the hitch will look. I'm copying the US factory made one that fits the euro spec car with adjustments made for us spec bumper and bumper mounting. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Someone on the list had made a webpage on how to build your on hitch for a 300TD. Anyone have that link? I'd like to compare it to the one thanks, xx rick Rick Hawkins www.javaphoto.com www.javacycles.com Java Photo Java Bajaj Cycles 107 Paradise Boulevard Athens, Georgia 30607 706 354-0988 3-6 pm or later (eastern time) 706 354-8877 fax ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com
[MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
I remember this popped up a few weeks ago, but I missed it and can't find it in the archives... So when my 300td fires up, the oil pressure gauge pegs at the 3 setting on the gauge (milibar???) Then it doesn't go down when I let off the gas and let the motor idle I seem to think that it starts moving about after it warms up...( the car has sat for the last few months) But I want to make sure I'm not running it this way and it could cause damage! Any thoughts? Clogged line somewhere? Also, do these 2300td's (84) have the self-leveling suspensions? I just read a reference to it in the Chiltons manual. I thought they ran straight shocks... Anyway, Thanks in advance. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
Normal? really? It usta bounce around right nice before I put the car in storage Now it just kinda sticks up there at 3. Another piece of the puzzle is that I ran non-desiel rate oil for about 500-600 miles. Could that be gumming it up? --- LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think the technical term for this is NORMAL. On 8/27/05, hue wong [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I remember this popped up a few weeks ago, but I missed it and can't find it in the archives... So when my 300td fires up, the oil pressure gauge pegs at the 3 setting on the gauge (milibar???) Then it doesn't go down when I let off the gas and let the motor idle I seem to think that it starts moving about after it warms up...( the car has sat for the last few months) But I want to make sure I'm not running it this way and it could cause damage! Any thoughts? Clogged line somewhere? Also, do these 2300td's (84) have the self-leveling suspensions? I just read a reference to it in the Chilton's manual. I thought they ran straight shocks... Anyway, Thanks in advance. Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- 1977 240D 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
So to clarify as I didn't quite say it right When I say warms up... I mean HOT, like after about 50-60 miles. and even then it would not always drop down after that I seem to remember that the gauge would start bounceing around, just after a few minutes when I first got the car, then right before I put it in to storage about six months ago, it started going all the way to the 3 on the gauge(Full) and never backing down, even when I pull up to stop signs and take the load of the engine... --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: I remember this popped up a few weeks ago, but I missed it and can't find it in the archives... So when my 300td fires up, the oil pressure gauge pegs at the 3 setting on the gauge (milibar???) Then it doesn't go down when I let off the gas and let the motor idle I seem to think that it starts moving about after it warms up...( the car has sat for the last few months) But I want to make sure I'm not running it this way and it could cause damage! Any thoughts? THAT'S exactly what it should do. Also, do these 2300td's (84) have the self-leveling suspensions? I just read a reference to it in the Chiltons manual. I thought they ran straight shocks... ALL the 123 and 124 wagons have self leveling suspension. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
Ya, I think I might have mixed the oil I had, what I think was a loose oil return tube, off the bottom of the air intake... It leaked oil like a feind, so I started dumping in gas station oil. Different makes of oil, and I always try and run 10-30, but am sure I mixed viscosity at some point... I'm going to flush all the oil out tomorrow and change the filters and see if that fixes the problem! Thanks for the help! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: Normal? really? It usta bounce around right nice before I put the car in storage Now it just kinda sticks up there at 3. Another piece of the puzzle is that I ran non-desiel rate oil for about 500-600 miles. Could that be gumming it up? Approved oil of the proper viscosity should cause the needle to peg when the engine is started cold - and may remain pegged until the engine has run for 5-15 minutes. Then the needle usually will drop to between 1 and 2 bar at hot warm idle. If oil viscosity becomes too high (because you are using an unsuitable oil, oil additive or the oil is contaminated in some way), the needle may read high. Simply change to an approved oil type and viscosity. If oil pressure get too high (above about 6 bar) there are relief valves in the filter housing and the pump housing that will open and prevent any problem. Only problem with running a non-diesel rated oil (now that fuel sulfur has been reduced to less than 0.05%)) is that it will not handle soot as well and will require changing somewhat sooner. Changed at 500-1000 miles, NO problem (if the viscosity rating was appropriate). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
'84 300td Not sure if it's running at six, don't think so ( it's not running low, that is for sure... Jumps right up there and never comes down...) I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something I've run gassers for years, but am new to the deseils, not to sure of thier little quirks yet...) Thanks! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: So to clarify as I didn't quite say it right When I say warms up... I mean HOT, like after about 50-60 miles. and even then it would not always drop down after that I seem to remember that the gauge would start bounceing around, just after a few minutes when I first got the car, then right before I put it in to storage about six months ago, it started going all the way to the 3 on the gauge(Full) and never backing down, even when I pull up to stop signs and take the load of the engine... Precisely what year and model car are you talking about?? You seem to have omitted that! If it's a 123 my answers stand as the direct reading Bourdon gauges seldom if ever incorrectly read high. There is NO problem. If it's a 124 or 201 series car manufactured after 1984 with an electric gauge, the gauge CAN incorrectly read high - may even read 3+ bar when the ignition key is on (but the engine is not running). ANY oil pressure between 3 and about 6 bar when driving is FINE. When hot, idle pressure MUST remain above 0.5 bar (and 1-2 bar is usual). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] Oli Pressure gauge reads high, dosen't move!
'84 300td Not sure if it's running at six, don't think so ( it's not running low, that is for sure... Jumps right up there and never comes down...) I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something I've run gassers for years, but am new to the deseils, not to sure of thier little quirks yet...) Thanks! --- Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: hue wong wrote: So to clarify as I didn't quite say it right When I say warms up... I mean HOT, like after about 50-60 miles. and even then it would not always drop down after that I seem to remember that the gauge would start bounceing around, just after a few minutes when I first got the car, then right before I put it in to storage about six months ago, it started going all the way to the 3 on the gauge(Full) and never backing down, even when I pull up to stop signs and take the load of the engine... Precisely what year and model car are you talking about?? You seem to have omitted that! If it's a 123 my answers stand as the direct reading Bourdon gauges seldom if ever incorrectly read high. There is NO problem. If it's a 124 or 201 series car manufactured after 1984 with an electric gauge, the gauge CAN incorrectly read high - may even read 3+ bar when the ignition key is on (but the engine is not running). ANY oil pressure between 3 and about 6 bar when driving is FINE. When hot, idle pressure MUST remain above 0.5 bar (and 1-2 bar is usual). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[MBZ] Mistyrious oil leak - found Murphy?
So a week or so ago I posted about the oil leak I was having on my 300td... Someone replayed to check the oil drain tube out of the bottom of the air cleaner. Seems there is some sort of oil return drain tube that runs from the bottom of the air cleaner to the top of the oil pan... There is a connection from the air claner and the drain tube and it looks like this had shaken loose... It does seem like there is a lot of oil for what I assume is just a blow by system So anywya, I cleaned the engine off of all the oil and semi-patched the joint with a rubber gasket think I found in the parts bin. I'll run the car a while and make sure it's this... So some questions for the group. How much oil usually goes through this system? What is the best way to actually joint this joint together? It's seems like it would be easy to come apart... ANyway! Thanks for all the feedback folks! -hue- 72 280sel 84 300td 69 190d http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
[MBZ] Oil leak on a 300d????
So I have an oil leak on my 84 300d Turbo. I feared it was the turbo, but after taking a hard look It looks like its either the valve cover gasket or the head gasket on that side... Anyone know if these motors have problems either way with these gaskets? I hope it's just the valve cover (cheap fix) and not the head gasket... but I can't see exactly where as the turbo mounts and such is in the way and it looks like a fair amount of oil is coming out. The first symptom was a light grey smoke that would waif up through the hood after the motor had warmed up. That is why I thought it was the turbo... but it turns out it's oil drip burning off on the exhaust manifold, causign the smoke Anyway, just wanted to see if this is a common known problem and how hard a gasket like this is to replace... thanks in advance all! http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Re: [MBZ] 81 300 SD salvage parts question
Ho, just for reference... Didn't they do a factory recall on these cars becuase of the tranny? I thought I read that somewhere... --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was supposed to see a guy yesterday about a 1985 300 SD. His car is in great shape cosmetically, but the transmission was going south. I was thinking about buying it, letting my kid drive it until the trany fell out, and then swapping the good engine and traney from my cosmetically trashed 81 into it. We could not get together, so I called to meet him tonight, and he told me he had problems with it this morning, and sold it for parts to our Mercedes mechanic. Our mechanic took it as a favor, and is willing to sell it to me for his cost. He says he is not sure since he did not get to look at it much, but it seems it threw a rod, right through the oil pan. Bad for him, but I'm thinking about running out and buying a lottery ticket. I'm going to look at it tomorrow, and will probably buy it and pay the mechanic to do the swap. I plan to salvage the small stuff that I can store from the '81, and scrap the rest. I'm looking for suggestions for what might be worth while to save, but that won't take up a lot of space. I figure mirrors, lenses, and other small stuff, but I wonder if there is stuff I should grab that I might not think of. I might keep the injection pump. It does not have a working AC compressor. Gauges work intermittently. The car sat for about 3 years. I don't have space to store body parts, but if anyone needs them, I'll make you a heck of a deal. The car is in Roswell GA, north of Atlanta. The car had leather seats that are totally trashed, but the body is in decent shape, with the exception of the drivers side door, that I sprung while rolling it off a car hauler. The clear coat has come off all the horizontal surfaces, but is otherwise OK. A branch fell on the hood a few nights ago, and left a fairly small ~ 2 dent. The car is dark blue. I'm going out of town next week, so it would late July or early August before I scrap it. Let me know if you have any interest or suggestions. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival __ Yahoo! Mail for Mobile Take Yahoo! Mail with you! Check email on your mobile phone. http://mobile.yahoo.com/learn/mail
Re: [MBZ] There's one born every minute
Hu what?? My lord! Up here in Seattle, you can pick up 300ts all day long from $500-$4500 For 12k I'll drive them down to LA all day long! --- Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: just goes to show, but a little bit of shine on one, grease the tires and you too can get 12k kweimer wrote: Incredible. Now what was that very true quote from P. T. Barnum? Ken - Original Message - From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 5:45 PM Subject: [MBZ] There's one born every minute Some maroon actually did pay the $12.5k Buy It Now price: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4556974801 It's a W123, fer cryin' out loud... **shakes head** -dm ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] 108 Problems
Ho andrew!@ yup, I have similar problems on mine! While I still don't have it toaly fixed (mine won't start after it gets warmed up! I did notice a HUGE imporvment when I swapped out all the fuel lines and the vacume lines in the engine... After working on my 300d, I curse these 4.5 sels... Just a bit to complicated for my tastes... Anyway, hope this might help --- andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Have you changed the thermo time switch and trigger points? On 6/24/05, John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am by no means a gasser expert, but the problem where it doesn't start after it has been sitting sounds like there is a fuel leak or a check valve that is letting fuel flow back into the fuel tank. No clue on the other stuff... Best of luck John '79 300SD On Fri, 24 Jun 2005, Ali Al-Abbasi wrote: OK I am having some real funky issues with my 73 280SEL 4.5. The car has never run right. When I first bought the car, the timing was way out and the car ran bad and would pop. My Dallas mechanic addressed this and changed the timing chain. The car then ran well for a while but now appears to be running super rich. Especially if left to idle for a while. I left it running at idle for about 15 minutes and it started choking up and chucking black smoke from the tail pipe when I would pull off.Another strange problem is that if you do not start the car for a couple of days, the car will not want to start. You would have to leave it to crank for more then a minute before it would start. Once it has started and left running for a few mins, then if you shut the engine off and crank it again, it would start on the button. I have replaced the fuel pressure regulator and my mechanic replaced the map sensor and some of the injectors earlier. Anyone seen these issues before? Any advice is appreciated. Regards Al ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net http://perceptionfest.com Online Streaming Film festival Yahoo! Sports Rekindle the Rivalries. Sign up for Fantasy Football http://football.fantasysports.yahoo.com
